July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior finishing (plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate, etc.). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Of course, it is best if the sewerage installation in a private house is done with your own hands simultaneously with laying the foundation, even before the construction of the building frame. Of course, this requires preliminary design and planning, but this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation strip and dismantling the floor covering.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Installation of sewerage pipeline

Five important requirements

First, I want to list you five basic requirements, without which not a single installation of sewer pipes in a private house can be done. But I will do this briefly in order to concentrate your attention on further installation instructions.

1. In any case, no matter where you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to maintain a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to a storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again the preconditions for clogging will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
2. If this is a sewerage installation in an apartment, then there are short sections of pipeline, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires inserting revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on a site exceeds 10 m, inspection wells should be installed there.
3. When laying a sewer system in a private house (underground installation is meant), certain distances to objects and structures must be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
4. To prevent the system from freezing, winter period The pipeline must be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
5. Pipes should be laid only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Indoor sewerage

First of all, you should firmly understand that the sewerage layout in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in principle. In 99% of cases, the most extreme point will always be the toilet flush - this is a 110 mm pipe, into which all other bathrooms are inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the top diagram.

In any case, at the exit from the room, be it a riser or a sun lounger, a 110 pipe is used, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other waste systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope in the room is also important - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drainage is forced - a counter-slope is even possible there if the characteristics of the room require it.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main drainage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

To connect pipes to each other, to make turns and to change to another diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, all, even the most complex, connections are made. Basically, the sewerage is installed in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is located, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

An automatic washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not at all necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons with a special outlet are produced, as shown in the top photo.

By by and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such an outlet, but I personally prefer to make a drain for this with a 32 mm pipe, cutting it into a 50 mm one through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets- they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room, which does not need to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then certain inconveniences arise. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal strip hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly, one pipe fits very tightly into the socket of another, crushing the rubber sealing ring - this usually happens when elements are connected from different manufacturers.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring liquid agent for washing dishes, and all problems are left behind.

Underground pipeline installation on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Table of soil freezing to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia differs greatly from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the area above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the freezing depth. That is, simply find out from neighbors or friends at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best guide.

As I already said, instructions for deepening a pipeline can sometimes be too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is installed at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - for this you can use extruded polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool.

There are also special insulation materials that are produced in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal cut for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although High Quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the wool with nylon thread, and then cover the whole thing with roofing felt, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only here you need either basalt or glass wool - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, having insulated the route, you leave inspection wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will end up with bare areas that will be. You can also use them to insulate them. mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is much cheaper to do this with expanded clay, but it also requires waterproofing - just cover the hole with roofing felt.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewerage

In the third paragraph of the title about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between the sewerage system and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to strictly adhere to such provisions, or your “well-wishing” neighbors may unreasonably claim this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and internal sewerage outlets - this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - cover it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying a pipeline in a trench with your own hands to a storage or flow tank occurs - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to pour a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm into it and level it in accordance with the required slope (18-20 mm/m linear for the 110th pipe).

Then you lay the pipeline itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the thickness of the layer above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the instability of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I water the sand generously, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour in the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to add that you may need pipeline insulation not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not replace the sand cushion. But if you still have questions about this topic, ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

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It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But fortunately now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always install one of the options yourself and connect pipes from your home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer system in a private house so that it serves correctly and efficiently for many years. There are few rules for the design and installation of such autonomous drainage systems, but they all must be followed.

Types of sewer systems in private homes

External street part of the sewer system country house can be arranged in the form:

• sealed storage tank;
• septic tank (with one or several chambers);
• septic tank with infiltrator;
• biological stations with aerobic treatment.

Plus, there are also cesspools, but they should only be used in dachas with small volumes of wastewater. To install a sewer system in a cottage with permanent residence of two or three people, you should choose only a full-fledged septic tank. Moreover, in some cases, the ideal choice would be a simple storage tank, and in others, a cleaning station with aerobic microorganisms.

Before buying this or that model, you need to weigh everything carefully. What is important here is the number of people living in the house and the size Wastewater in cubic meters per day, and soil characteristics in the local area.

Storage tank, sealed container

It is customary to select a storage tank at a high level groundwater(UGV). This sealed container is not afraid of rains and floods; sewage will come out of it only in extreme situations. It is best to make such a drive from concrete rings or an iron tank. It comes out inexpensively and quickly. The only drawback of this sewerage option is the constant expense of calling a sewer truck every two to three weeks to pump out wastewater.

Installation of a sewer storage tank

Single chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is a slightly improved classic cesspool in the form of a well with a drainage bottom. The purification of wastewater in it occurs due to the passage of water from the internal sewerage system of a private house through several layers of crushed stone and sand. There is no need to call a vacuum cleaner here, but you will have to clean and rinse the crushed stone-sand drainage twice a year. This option is inexpensive to do, but it can only cope with a small volume of wastewater (suitable only for families of a couple of people).

What is the difference between a single-chamber and a two-chamber septic tank?

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow settling wells

A septic tank with two or three chambers is a structure made up of several overflow wells. The first (and the second for sediment, if any) is made airtight, and the latter, on the contrary, comes with drainage at the bottom. Such a sewer system is capable of purifying fairly large volumes of wastewater from a private home and does not require special attention. However, if the groundwater is located high, then such a septic structure will have to be abandoned.

Construction of a two-chamber septic tank

Septic tank with filtration field

If the water level is high and the cottage is large, then to clean the sewer drains you can install a septic tank with a filtration field or infiltrator. In this case, water drainage into the soil also occurs through a sand and gravel filter. However, here it is located not at the bottom of a narrow vertical well, but on a “field” located further away from the foundation of the house in the form drainage pipes or a large-area infiltration structure.

Filtration field design options

Septic tank with biofilter

An anaerobic septic tank with a biofilter will cost more than the options listed above. However, it is more efficient and productive. Plus, after purification, the water can be used to water the garden or wash the car. Such a station is made at a factory from plastic or fiberglass and is divided into compartments inside. The wastewater gradually flows through several chambers, one of which contains special organic-eating bacteria. The result is 90–95% purified water at the outlet.

Construction of a septic tank with a biofilter

Septic tank with forced air supply

An aerobic septic tank (active biotreatment station) is the maximum in terms of productivity and efficiency that is available among autonomous sewage systems for a private home. Wastewater purification here is carried out by aerobe microorganisms that need constant oxygen supply. This is done using an electric pump; such a septic tank is energy dependent. But the rate at which bacteria “eat” organic matter is high, and the degree of purification fluctuates around 98–99%. A serious disadvantage is the high cost of the station.

Design and principle of operation of a septic tank with forced ventilation

How to choose a sewer system for your home

Quite enough for a country house with temporary residence cesspool, a small storage tank or a single-chamber septic tank with soil drainage. But for a private house in which he constantly lives big family, a more powerful treatment plant is required. Best choice there will be an aerobic or anaerobic station.

Pad

Regardless of the option chosen, installation of the external part of the local sewer system can almost always be done independently. Just dig a hole and then install it inside ready septic tank or build it there from brick or concrete.

Where to begin

It is most correct to calculate and think about how to make a sewer system in your cottage not even during the construction of a home, but even at the stage of its design. It is necessary to provide technological openings for pipes in the floors, walls and foundation of the building in advance. It is much more difficult to do this in an already built house. Here, like replacing electrical wiring or installing a ventilation system, it is better to calculate and recalculate everything in advance.

A simple diagram of a septic tank in a private house

How to calculate the volume of a septic tank

The internal volume of a septic tank is calculated based on the number of plumbing fixtures and the amount of their actual waste. But to simplify the sewage system in a private house, it is customary to plan based on 150–200 l/day of wastewater for each person permanently residing in it.

Laying depth

If a septic tank for sewerage installation is chosen with soil drainage, then it must be taken as far away from the cottage as possible. Otherwise, moisture escaping into the soil will negatively affect its foundation. At a minimum, this distance should be 5 m, but in this case it is better to increase it to 8–10 m.

But if a sealed container or biological station is chosen, then the rules for installing sewerage allow them to be located closer than five meters from the building. At the same time, the digging depth of the treatment plant and sewer pipes from the building must be such that they do not freeze in winter.

System design

Designing internal sewerage in the cottage itself is also quite simple. Difficulties can arise only if the house is built on several floors and with a lot of plumbing. For ordinary low-rise housing of 100–150 square meters, everything can be designed independently. It's no more difficult than choosing an emergency gas generator. You just need to comply with the relevant building codes.

Tilt angle rules

All horizontal sections of sewerage in a private house should be made at a slope of three (for pipes D = 50 mm) and two degrees (for D = 110 mm) in the direction of movement of the drains. It is no longer possible to tilt the pipelines, as water will flow through them too quickly, leaving feces and solid waste inside. And with a lower slope, sewage, on the contrary, will stagnate in the outlets, not reaching the central riser.

Internal piping

The internal sewage system consists of:

• horizontal outlet (pipes to the septic tank);
• vertical riser with ventilation hole upstairs;
• horizontal bends to each plumbing fixture.

To lay the outlet, riser and branch from it to the toilet, you should choose pipes with a diameter of 100–120 mm; for other sections, 40–50 mm will be sufficient. The easiest way is to make sewer pipelines from plastic products, connected into a socket with a rubber cuff for tightness.

Installation of sewer pipes in the house

Riser installation

Connecting taps to vertical pipe is done through tees, and its rotation towards the outlet is done with a knee with a smooth bend. In general, the installation of sewerage in a private house begins with the installation of a riser, assembled from the bottom up and strictly vertically. It is attached to the wall with clamps with a distance between fasteners of a maximum of 2 meters. To pass it through the interfloor ceilings, metal sleeves a couple of centimeters wider than the pipeline itself are used.

A pressing question that plagues everyone who wants to live in private country houses without the ability to connect to central water supply and drainage, how to make an autonomous sewer system. After all, without it it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. Sewage in a private house can be equipped in different ways, which we will talk about in this article. Choosing the right system that suits your individual conditions and needs is even more important than implementing it.

What kind of sewerage system can there be - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option for arranging a drainage system in private homes is selected depending on several conditions:

• House with permanent or temporary residence.
• How many people permanently live in the house?
• What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathtub, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
• What is the groundwater level?
• What is the size of the site, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
• What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
• Climatic conditions of the area.

You can learn more about the requirements in the relevant sections of SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewerage systems in a private house can be divided into only two types:

• Storage systems(cesspool without bottom, sealed container for waste).
• Wastewater treatment plants(the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil purification, a two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural purification, a two-three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aeration tank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient method of arranging a sewer system, proven over centuries and even millennia, is a cesspool. Some 50 - 70 years ago there was no alternative to this method at all. But people did not use as much water in private homes as they do today.

A cesspool is a well without a bottom. The walls of the cesspool can be made of brick, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When sewage from the house gets into the pit more or less pure water seeps into the soil, purifying itself. Fecal matter and other solid organic waste settles to the bottom and accumulates. Over time, the well becomes filled with solid waste, and then it needs to be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof; then, when the hole was filled, they simply buried it and dug a new one in another place.

I would like to immediately note that installing a sewer system in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of wastewater is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter have time to process the water that penetrates the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of wastewater is greater than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes groundwater. This risks contaminating wells and other water sources within a radius of 50 m. Adding microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces the unpleasant odor emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But, nevertheless, it is not worth the risk.

Conclusion. A cesspool without a bottom can be built if the house is visited 2-3 days a week and does not consume a lot of water. In this case, the groundwater level must be at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise contamination of the soil and water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of arrangement, a cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed container - storage tank

A sealed container is installed on the site near the house, into which wastewater and waste from the entire house flow through pipes. This container can be ready-made, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal or other material. Or it can be assembled independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the lid is made of metal. The main condition when installing a sewer system in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Suitable for sewerage corrugated pipes pragma.

When the container is full, it must be cleaned. To do this, a sewer truck is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 USD. The frequency of emptying the container, as well as the required volume, depends on the amount of waste. For example, if 4 people permanently live in a house, use a bath, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume of the storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion. A sealed cesspool is one of the options for installing sewerage in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible contamination. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewer truck. To do this, from the very beginning it is necessary to correctly calculate the location of the container to ensure convenient access to it. The bottom of the hole or container should not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The lid of the container must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For such a sewer system in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase used Eurocubes, the most expensive would be pouring concrete or brick. In addition there are monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil treatment

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool; it is often called that. It is a well, the bottom of which is filled with crushed stone in a layer of at least 30 cm, and on top of coarse sand in the same layer. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where the water, seeping through a layer of sand, crushed stone, and then soil, is purified by 50%. Adding sand and crushed stone improves the quality of water purification and partly feces, but does not radically solve the problem.

Conclusion. Sewerage in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank is impossible when permanent residence and large volumes of waste. Only for houses with temporary residence and low level groundwater. After some time, the crushed stone and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt up.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of economical options sewerage system, which can be installed independently, the installation of overflow settling wells and filter wells is universally popular.

This sewage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powder, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Wastewater from the house flows into the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty waste floats to the surface, and more or less clarified water is formed between them. At a height of approximately 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well by an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can flow there freely. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it percolates through a sprinkle of crushed stone, sand and soil, purifies even more and leaves.

The first well is a settling tank, and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of feces accumulates in the first well, to remove which it is necessary to call a sewer truck. This will have to be done approximately once every 4 - 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant odor, microorganisms are added to the first well that decompose feces.

Overflow sewer in a private house: photo - example

You can make a two-chamber septic tank yourself from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will also occur using special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is possible to install a sewer system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even during a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. Ideal conditions is sandy or su sandy soil Location on. After 5 years, the crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We move on to a description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about contamination environment.

This type of septic tank is one container divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate well containers connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to install this type of sewer system, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first container, wastewater settles, as in the previous method (settling well). Through the pipe, partially clarified water flows into a second container or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water reaches the filtration fields.

Filtration fields are areas underground where wastewater undergoes soil treatment. Thanks to the large area (about 30 m2), the water is purified by 80%. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy loam, otherwise you will have to equip an artificial filtration field made of crushed stone and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, the water is collected in pipelines and discharged to drainage ditches or wells. Trees or edible vegetables cannot be planted above the filtration fields; only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields become silted and need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with crushed stone and sand. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after this.

Conclusion. Laying a sewer system in a private house, which requires the presence of a filtration field, is only possible if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, this is a fairly constructive solution, provided there is sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

A deep cleaning station allows for complete installation of sewerage in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

A septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals about the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewer system in a private house is not the lowest, starting from 1200 USD.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water settles, in the second, organic matter decomposes by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves for water separation, since in the fourth, organic matter decomposes with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant flow of air. To do this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, rising 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are added to a filter installed on the pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In essence, this is the filtration field - only in miniature and concentrated. Thanks to the small area of ​​water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, the water is thoroughly purified up to 90 - 95%. This water can be safely used for technical needs - watering the garden, washing the car and much more. To do this, their fourth section is given a pipe leading either to a container for storing purified water, or to a drainage ditch or well, where it is simply absorbed into the ground.

Sewage treatment in a private house - operation diagram:

Conclusion. Septic tank with biofilter - good decision for a private home with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to the septic tank by simply pouring them into the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such a treatment plant. An undeniable advantage is that it does not require electricity. The only drawback is that sewerage installation in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant flow of wastewater, bacteria die. When new strains are introduced, they begin active activity only after two weeks.

Septic tank with forced air supply - artificial treatment station

An accelerated treatment station where natural processes occur artificially. Construction of a sewer system in a private house using an aeration tank will require supplying electricity to the septic tank to connect an air pump and air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers connected to each other. Water enters the first chamber through sewer pipes, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually an aeration tank; here water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria activated sludge- aerobic. It is for their full functioning that forced aeration is needed.

Water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a settling tank for deeper cleaning. The sludge is then pumped back into the aeration tank using a special pump.

Forced air supply provides fairly rapid treatment of wastewater, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion. An aeration tank is an expensive but necessary pleasure in some cases. The price starts from 3700 USD. There are no restrictions on the installation of such sewerage. Disadvantages are the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise the activated sludge bacteria die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

The location of sewerage facilities is subject to certain restrictions.

Septic tank should be located:

• no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
• no closer than 20 - 50 m from the water source (well, borehole, reservoir);
• no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be remote:

• 8 m from filter wells;
• 25 m from filter fields;
• 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
• 300 m from drainage wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage distribution in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2°, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7° (with a margin). But you shouldn’t joke with this matter, since a larger slope will lead to water quickly passing through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller slope will not ensure the movement of wastewater through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes so that there are no turns or corners. For internal wiring of sewer pipes, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. If the house has more than one floor, and baths, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain wastewater down.

If you decide that you can do the sewerage of a private house with your own hands, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP regarding the location and design of the sewerage system. In order not to spoil relations with your neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

The sewerage project for a private house is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximateness. Contact design bureaus or architects, and let the professionals create a working design for you, taking into account all the characteristics of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project is completed together with the project of the house itself before its construction begins. This will make installation much easier.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewer system in a private house at high groundwater levels, then based on all of the above, these could be the following options:

• Sealed container for waste accumulation.
• Septic tank with biofilter.
• Aeration treatment station (aeration tank).

The actual work of installing a sewer system in a private house is not that difficult. It is necessary to install pipes throughout the house that will collect wastewater from different sources, connect them into a collector and run them through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. You can do the excavation work yourself, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewerage system and drawing up a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Many consumers, when building a private house or cottage, try to immediately draw up a diagram autonomous sewerage. This is a fairly reasonable decision, because with this approach it will be possible to ensure further comfortable living. But in order for the sewerage system in a private house to have impeccable functioning and a long service life, proper design alone will not be enough; this will also require certain knowledge and nuances of installation work.

General information about sewerage

Today there are several types of sewer systems. According to their main characteristics, they can be divided into two types:

• central service;
• autonomous maintenance.

In the first case, the system allows residents of city apartments to receive clean water and, after its use, to be discharged without external installation work. To do this, it will be enough to connect the internal sewage system of the house to the general city wastewater treatment plant.

Autonomous sewerage is provided for private houses and cottages where it is not possible to connect the internal cleaning system to the central drainage system. Such sewerage wiring in a private house allows you to increase the comfort of living outside the city. In addition, when using some autonomous system devices, it is possible to achieve an average of 90% purification of wastewater from pollution, which is subsequently used for agricultural needs.

Types of autonomous sewerage

Autonomous sewerage in a private house provides for several installations of working elements. According to the basic principle of installation, installation can be divided into two main stages, these are:

• build an outdoor system;
• install the internal pipeline.

In the first option, installation is carried out outside the building. His work includes installing a treatment tank and laying sewer pipes underground. In the second case, installation of household waste disposal equipment is carried out inside the building. His tasks include connecting all plumbing fixtures to the water supply and connecting it to the external sewerage system.

According to the recommendations of experts, it is advisable to carry out the internal and external installation of the sewage system of a private house in parallel to each other. Also, when carrying out work, it is very important to comply with sanitary, hygienic and construction standards.

Important! Before carrying out installation work, you must first agree on the autonomous sewerage scheme with a specialist, and then obtain permission from the SES.

Having become familiar with general information about a cleaning system for a private home, it is also worth considering what materials and equipment will be required for the work.

Equipment and materials for installation work

Pipes, fittings and drainage collection containers are the main components of the sewer system. The correct choice of this equipment will depend trouble-free operation system and its service life. Therefore, before embarking on the question of how to properly install a sewer system in a private house, you first need to familiarize yourself with the choice of the main components of the system.

Sewage pipes for a private house

Today there are several types of pipelines. But to a private house had high-quality sewerage, the following products are mainly chosen.

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipes

These pipes are more often used for internal installation of the system. These pipelines have a high mechanical strength, UV resistance, a smooth inner surface that prevents the formation of deposits from contaminated wastewater, and good resistance to aggressive environments. In addition, installing sewerage in a house using these pipes is quite easy.

Attention! PVC pipes have poor sound insulation and limitations temperature regime, which varies from – 15 to + 65 degrees.

Such pipelines are used for both external and internal installation of wastewater disposal systems. Polypropylene is enough soft material, therefore, the installation of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out without any particular difficulties. These products are also characterized by high resistance to temperature changes, low coefficient of friction, high strength and reliability. Such indicators for external installation make it possible to ensure a long service life of the system.

Pipes made of non-modernized polyvinyl chloride are mainly used for underground autonomous sewerage. They are light in weight and highly resistant to any chemical influences And long term operation. In addition, the pipes have good strength, which prevents their deformation from the weight of the soil and rising groundwater. PVC-U material prevents clogging inside the pipeline.

According to SNiP, for internal sewerage, the diameter of the pipes should vary from 3.2 to 11 cm. For external installation, the diameter of the pipeline should be in the range of 16-50 cm.

Fittings for autonomous sewerage

The fitting is one of the main components for installing sewer pipes. His tasks include connecting the pipeline during turns, transitions and branches. According to their operational purposes, the fitting is divided into the following types:

1. Reduction – used to connect pipes of different diameters;
2. Coupling – designed to connect parts of a pipeline of equal diameter;
3. Tee - used to connect two small pipes to one large one;
4. Bend - used in cases where the pipeline has corners and differences in height;
5. Non-return valve - used to prevent reverse circulation of wastewater;
6. Double siphon - installed in waste collection areas;
7. Cross - used to connect together 3-4 pipes that run opposite to each other;
8. Plug – installed as a viewing window.

More detailed information about these items can be found in the included instructions. You can distinguish between fittings for external and internal sewerage by their appearance.

Storage tank for autonomous sewerage

Previously, for several decades, sewerage in a private house only involved the installation of cesspools for collecting household waste. But the interaction of wastewater with soil caused environmental pollution. In this regard, storage overflow tanks were developed in accordance with sanitary and hygienic standards.

According to their performance characteristics, cleaning tanks are divided into the following types.

Reinforced concrete wells

Storage wells are a fairly simple and easy option for installing a sewer system. To install the container, concrete rings are used, which are stacked on top of each other in a dug pit. After installing the system elements, the bottom of the well is filled concrete mortar, and the joints between the rings are sealed with a moisture-repellent compound. The main advantages of an overflow well are the long service life and reliability of the system.

In this case, the storage tank is a metal tank, which, like in the first option, is installed in a dug hole. But while a reinforced concrete well can be used for several decades, the storage tank has a shorter service life. This is explained by the fact that the material from which storage devices are made has poor resistance to aggressive environments and is susceptible to corrosion. In addition, the seams of the container from acidic environment Over time, contaminated wastewater begins to leak into the ground, which is strictly prohibited according to SNiP.

You should know! Some consumers found rational decision to extend the service life of the metal tank. To do this, they use several two-hundred-liter barrels to install the tank, which are connected to each other by overflow pipes.

In this case, the storage septic tank with overflow is made of highly resistant plastic. This product has good strength, reliability and tightness. Reservoir released in different forms and volumes, so you can choose a tank according to the individual preferences of the consumer. In addition, the equipment is lightweight, which allows you to make a sewer yourself without the use of loading vehicles. Also, some plastic containers are equipped with anaerobic bacteria, due to which waste is thoroughly decomposed. Therefore, with this septic tank, when the wastewater comes out, it will be possible to obtain 95% pure water.

Which one to install? storage tank on your site, selected according to the individual preferences of the consumer. But as practice has shown, it is more rational to choose a storage septic tank.

Having familiarized yourself with the types and equipment of the system, you can begin to consider the issue of how to install a sewer system in a private house with your own hands.

Installation of sewerage for a private house

As mentioned earlier, the installation of an autonomous system is carried out in two stages, parallel to each other. If this is not possible, external work is carried out first, and then internal wiring sewerage in a private house with your own hands.

Let's consider each work option in more detail.

External installation of sewerage

The beginning of this work involves drawing up a project, which will need to be certified by the relevant authorities. The installation itself requires a certain sequence and is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Choosing a place where an overflow well for sewage or other storage equipment will be located;
2. Digging a pit for a tank. The depth of the pit depends on the capacity of the overflow sewer;
3. Installation of storage equipment. Unlike a reinforced concrete well and a metal tank, plastic septic tank can be installed manually;
4. Arrangement of the reservoir. Regardless of the type of container, the wastewater sump must have a closing lid. Therefore, if the tank was purchased without it, the consumer will need to make the lid themselves;
5. Digging trenches for pipelines. From the storage pit to the place where the sewage system will enter the building, a ditch with a depth of at least 1 m is dug;
6. Pipe laying. A sewer water supply is laid in the prepared trench so that one end is connected to the tank and the other to the house.

At the end of external installation, the storage tank and pipeline are insulated with a special material. Construction glass wool is mainly used for this.

Internal installation of autonomous sewerage

Before you start indoor installation, first, a sewerage layout diagram in a private house is drawn up. It includes the location of the riser and all plumbing fixtures, such as: toilet, bathtub, sink, shower, washing machine, etc. Based on the drawn up diagram, the following stage-by-stage installation of the sewer system is carried out.

Installation of the riser

The best option would be to install a riser at the lowest point of the building. The best place considered underground. Having mounted the riser in this place, it is hidden in a special box, which will serve as protection from negative impact external environment. Then two pipes are connected to the riser, one of which will go inside the building, and the second will connect to the external sewer. If the building does not have a basement, then it would be more rational to install a riser in the toilet.

Punching a groove

From the farthest point where the plumbing fixture is located, grooves are made in the wall for laying pipes. The channel is made along the entire building so that it runs along all household equipment. The depth of the groove should be as comfortable as possible for free adjustment of the outlet.

Important! If the consumer prefers to lay sewer pipes not in the walls, but in the floor of the building, then it will be necessary to take into account the thickness concrete screed and type of finishing coating.

Laying and distributing sewer pipes

Few consumers know how to install a sewer system in a private home and connect the pipeline. In fact, this installation is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To carry it out, you first need to lay the main pipe from the riser, from which the subsequent installation and collection of the pipeline will be carried out from the bottom up. Having installed the main pipe, the sewer water supply is laid alternately from it into grooves. During installation, it is important to ensure that the pipes have a slight slope from the highest point of the plumbing towards the riser. In addition, the angle of rotation of the water supply should not exceed 45 degrees. After installing the pipes, plumbing equipment is connected to them using an elbow.

At the end of the installation work, the external and internal sewerage pipes are first connected.

Important! After connecting the pipelines, it is necessary to check the tightness of the system and the flow rate of the liquid. To do this, all plumbing fixtures in the house are filled with water, and the consumer begins to monitor its movement.

Having considered the types of installation of an autonomous sewer system, you can see for yourself that you can carry out all the work yourself, without the services of a specialist. The most important thing here is to choose the right components of the system and strictly follow the instructions on how to install sewerage inside and outside the house.

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Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum amenities in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry about this in advance important issue How to install a sewer system in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to perform all the work competently, correctly and without harming the environment.

At self-construction sewer system you can save a lot. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you came from our website “Remontik”.

The choice of sewer system layout should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.

When planning, we recommend providing for the most compact placement of rooms for which water drainage and supply will be carried out (bathrooms, shower rooms, toilets, laundries and kitchens). But the best option is to place it in such a way that all plumbing equipment will be connected to one collector, through which wastewater will flow into a septic tank or cesspool.

If you have a large country house, which has several different rooms with drainage/supply of water located in different parts buildings, experts advise giving preference to a sewerage system that has at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms (bath and kitchen) are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.

Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or country house comes down to the installation of external and internal sewerage.

Work on internal sewerage includes the installation of a drain pipe, riser and pipe distribution to such rooms as the kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to a deep cleaning station (enough expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to a centralized wastewater disposal system, then the task will be significantly simplified. However, below we will consider autonomous system, which includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to do internal circuit. Even when designing a house, you need to make sure that all the rooms where the sewage system will be installed are as close to each other as possible, since this approach allows you to simplify the internal sewerage design. Each private house requires installation individual scheme sewerage, which can vary greatly.

Therefore, you must take into account that in the toilet it is necessary to use pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm to drain wastewater. For gray wastewater entering the sewer system from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be made using two plastic elbows, which are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, since in the future this will minimize the possibility of blockage (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to remove it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage system. In addition, installing an internal sewerage system using such pipes is much easier.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, it is worth understanding as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage system for your home, since in the future it will be possible to perform a full calculation of the materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed for installing a sewerage system in a private house.

You can make a sewer diagram on a piece of checkered paper, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage diagram for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

• First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house to scale. If you don’t know the dimensions, you will have to use a tape measure and measure everything carefully.

• Next you need to decide on the location of the risers.

• Then on the plan you need to mark the locations of the plumbing fixtures and decide how they will be connected.

• Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to the plumbing fixtures, and all connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).

• All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

• Now decide on the dimensions of the riser and fan pipe.

• Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage system.

• Another stage is external sewerage. You need to draw up a diagram of it: the location of the pipes running from the septic tank or deep treatment station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all existing SNiPs.

Installation of sewerage in a private house: selection of pipes

Due to the fact that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, differ significantly, the pipes for such sewage systems must be used differently. Today, for laying internal sewerage, PVC or PP pipes are usually used, differing in their characteristic gray. For risers and sunbeds their diameter should be 110 mm, and for outlets - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewerage, and for external sewerage it is worth using other solutions.

Typically, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep treatment station to discharge are orange in color, which can be explained very simply - bright colors are more noticeable in the ground. Orange color. But the pipes used for external sewerage, differ from others not only in the color itself, but also in the requirements that are placed on them. They have high rigidity because they bear a significant load.

More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are double-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewerage system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite sufficient for draining wastewater.

Below we will look at all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials, among which are the most used:

• Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and durable pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness can form, which can cause blockage.

• Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, making them in high demand for indoor drainage. Calmly cope with high drain temperatures.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

• Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, lightweight and inexpensive. Most often used for external sewerage.

Disadvantages: they do not tolerate high temperatures of wastewater, they are fragile (they crack, do not bend).

Installation of sewerage in a private house: laying pipes

Perhaps the most complex process during the construction of an autonomous sewer system in country house is the routing and laying of pipes. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, since this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling water on it, and only then, when you are confident that all seams are secure, proceed to full operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the simplest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewerage. As of today construction market a huge number of products are offered, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes, which are easily and reliably connected at the joining points, which is ensured by the presence rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with plumbing sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of the pipe in a free-flow system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - no less than 2 cm per 1 meter. Don't forget this because different points pipelines will have to be laid at different heights to provide the required slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy with the external and internal systems sewer system, you need to start installing the sewer system in a private house from the outlet (the border part of the sewer system connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the soil freezing depth corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after the weather warms up.

If you did not take care of this when building the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the sewer pipe (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing everything said above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm by 1 m).

Wiring and installation of the riser

It is good if the riser is located in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe running from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, hangers, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, it is necessary to use adapters. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, showers and bathtubs, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser you must install a special tee, with which you can clean out the blockage. To avoid having to carry out sewer cleaning work in the future, install a cleaning device after each turn of the pipe.

Fan pipe outlet

It’s worth saying right away that the removal and installation of the vent pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

• maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air vacuum and water hammer do not occur;
• increasing the durability of sewerage;
• ventilation of the entire system, which is required for efficient work septic tank

The vent pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe into the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining the fan pipe with ventilation or chimney. In addition, you need to locate its outlet as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to place sewer ventilation, house ventilation and chimney at different levels.

Summarizing all of the above, we can note the following:

• at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from the plumbing to the riser;

• you need to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser while connecting others additional devices(exclude diameter reduction);

• stick to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (the toilet should be closest to the riser);

• where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and inspection;

• There must be a drain pipe in the distribution system for ventilation.

Installation of external sewerage in a private house

Equip external sewerage in a country house you can do it yourself different ways, which we will talk about below. It is important to wisely choose a system that fully satisfies your needs.

You need to decide on a sewerage arrangement plan taking into account the following factors:

• permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
• the number of people who live in the house daily;
• daily water consumption by one person (depending on the availability of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
• groundwater level;
• soil structure and type;
• the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
• climatic conditions.

All sewage systems for a private home can be divided into 2 types:

• storage systems (cesspool without bottom, sealed container);

• structures used for wastewater treatment (aeration tank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural purification and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification).

Cesspool without bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of installing a sewer system in a private home. Just 50 years ago there were simply no alternatives to this method. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls from concrete rings, concrete, bricks and other materials, leaving the soil as the bottom. After wastewater enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was filled, it was simply buried and a new hole was dug in another place.

It is worth considering the fact that it is possible to install a sewer system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of waste per day does not exceed 1 m3. This is the only way that soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter can have time to process the water that penetrates the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if the volume of wastewater exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary purification, which will provoke groundwater pollution. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will reduce the unpleasant odor emanating from it, and the cleaning process will significantly speed up. But be that as it may, you should not take risks.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but only several times a week, without using a lot of water. At the same time, it is worth considering that groundwater must lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. A cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank

In this case, you need to install a special sealed container next to the house, where wastewater will flow from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer system is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewer truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank directly depends on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if 4 people live in a house and use a toilet, washing machine, bathtub and shower, then the volume of the storage tank should be at least 8 m3, and it should be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if your site has a high level of groundwater, then it makes sense to use a sealed cesspool to install a sewage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible contamination.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located to ensure convenient access to it. The bottom of the hole or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the cover storage capacity was well insulated, and the pipeline had good protection against freezing. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use used Eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Don't forget about monthly expenses to clean the container.

A single-chamber septic tank is the simplest option for cleaning soil

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with a small layer of crushed stone (at least 30 cm), and coarse sand is poured on top of it with the same layer. Otherwise, wastewater from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where the water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being purified by 50%. Naturally, sand and crushed stone greatly increases the quality of water purification, but does not radically solve this problem.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build a sewer system using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, sand and crushed stone need to be changed periodically, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular method of installing sewerage systems in a private home. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not have it, but is sprinkled with sand and crushed stone.

Wastewater from the house is pumped into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom and fatty waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second using an overflow pipe at about 2/3 of its height, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.

The second well receives clarified water, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, purifying itself even better.

The first well is used as a settling tank, and the second is used as a filter well. The first well is filled with feces from time to time and to clean it you will need to call a special sewer truck. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during floods, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy or sandy loam soil, this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years the crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, including several separate tanks, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first tank of the septic tank is used to settle wastewater, as happens in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second container or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then the clarified water goes to the filtration fields.

A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m2) acts as a filtration field. Primary wastewater treatment is carried out there. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.

If on your plot of land If there is sandy loam or sandy soil, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water passes the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed into drainage ditches or guide wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break up the flowerbed.

Attention! you can buy drainage wells with a discount in this section of the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/drenazhnye-kolodtsy/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation - the Remontik website.

Over time, the filtration may become silted and it will have to be cleaned, or rather replaced with crushed stone and sand. This is a huge amount of work that may damage your site.

Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when the groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a complete installation of sewerage in a private house. And this despite high level groundwater.

This station acts as a container that is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, checking with professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant flow of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In the pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria are actually introduced. It turns out to be a kind of filtration field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Thanks to the small area of ​​water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). This purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing your car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading either to a storage tank or to a drainage ditch.

For a private home where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. It is easy to add microorganisms to the septic tank - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. One of its advantages is that it does not require electricity. The disadvantage is that it needs regular maintenance, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced submission air

This is an accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. Installing a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.

This septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are connected to each other. By sewer pipe water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, mixes with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their life.

Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes into the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Then, using a special pump, the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank.

Forced air supply ensures rapid wastewater treatment, and the water after purification can be used for various technical needs (washing a car, watering a garden, etc.).

Of course, an aeration tank will cost you quite a lot (from $3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. There are no restrictions when installing sewers of this type. Among the number of disadvantages, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high groundwater level, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can choose several options:

• septic tank with biofilter;

Several general rules for sewerage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

• 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
• 300 m from drainage wells and station;
• 25 m from the filter field;
• 8 m from the filter well.

Septic tank location:

• at least 20-50 m from any water sources (well, borehole, pond);
• at least 10 m from the garden.

Before you begin installing a sewer system in a private house, you must make a design. You should not work without it, since the sewer system is a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design bureau or architects who will help you create quality project taking into account climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It’s good if you do a sewerage project together with a house project before construction.

All work on installing a sewer system is not difficult. You only need to correctly route the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and lead them to the septic tank. For excavation work, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main thing is the development of the project and right choice sewerage systems.