Almost any country house, or simply Vacation home can't do without a cellar. Very often it is equipped in the basement, and in order to provide it daylight Low built-in windows (at ground level) are used. And in city buildings such windows are not uncommon. As a rule, a special light or protective pit is installed nearby. This design allows you to protect windows from dirt and moisture, and also allows you to make the most of daylight hours. Manufacturing standards and sizes of pits may vary, depending on the type of building and the size of the basement windows.
Let's take a closer look at their purpose, types and main stages of their installation.
Purpose and characteristics
The main purpose of this element is to restrict access to that part of the building walls where the basement windows are located. The pit device protects the windows themselves and the basement as a whole. This structure will not allow snow, melt water, garbage and animals to enter the basement, and the windows will last much longer thanks to this protection.
The grille protects windows from mechanical damage and practically does not prevent light from entering.
An important purpose of a basement window is access daylight into the room. Light pits must be designed in such a way that maximum amount sunlight entered the basement through the windows. The presence of windows in the basement or cellar allows you to reduce energy costs for lighting, as it makes it possible to use natural daylight.
If the basement is well-equipped, daylighting greatly increases the comfort of people staying inside for a long time. Thus, the light pit is not just a protective structure, but an important functional element.
And if you apply maximum imagination, you can make a spectacular one out of this design. decorative element facade of your house.
The dimensions of the pits are calculated depending on the size of the windows themselves and how deep into the ground they are planted. As a rule, the length of the pit (the part that runs parallel to the wall) should be one and a half times the width of the window. And the second side ( perpendicular to the wall) should not protrude more than 1 m. The optimal option is 70–80 cm. The depth of the pit is determined based on the location of the lower edge window frame: its bottom should be approximately 20 cm below the window. It is also advisable to plan a slight slope of the well bottom (about 3–5 degrees).
The shape of this structure can be very different: semicircle, trapezoid, square. But still, the rectangular shape is the most convenient and practical.
There are also special SNiPs - these are building codes and the rules that designs must comply with. When designing, be sure to check what these standards are for your building.
How to organize a drainage system
To prevent dampness in the basement, the pits should be equipped with a drainage system, which will allow water to be drained away from the building. Additional waterproofing of the well walls and connecting seam may also be required.
Scheme of a pit with a drainage system.
If the building is located on a waterproof pad, you can get by with a simple drainage system. To do this, you will need to leave a pipe with a diameter of 6–8 cm and a length of about 1 meter under the bottom of the pit. The hole in the pipe that goes into the basement pit should be closed with a special drainage grate. To drain water more efficiently, the floor must be laid with a slight slope away from the building (towards the drain hole). The bottom of the well should be covered with a layer of gravel about 3–4 cm deep. This simple procedure will prevent the earth from falling off and debris will not clog the pipe.
In case the level groundwater close to the surface, more serious waste system. It is best to organize circular drainage around the entire perimeter of the building (at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation). And from the pits, drain water into the general waste system.
Additionally, waterproofing of walls and expansion joint between the pit well and the building. Well walls can be treated bitumen mastic. The seam is sealed with geotextile or roofing felt. Waterproofing in combination with a drainage system will reliably protect the building from moisture ingress from the wells of the basement windows.
Installation of ready-made structures
Modern construction companies they offer quite a lot today wide choose ready-made structures for arrangement of pits. By purchasing such a product, you will be able to special effort equip pits in the basement: the only thing you have to work on is digging a pit to fit the dimensions of the purchased structure.
Installation of the finished structure.
Today, finished pits are made from different materials. It can be galvanized steel, propylene, plastic or polyester. The latter option, reinforced with fiberglass, has such strength that structures made from it can easily withstand not only the weight of an adult, but even a car. Therefore, such designs are the most popular.
Replacing old elements with new ones.
Metal, in particular steel structures, also have their advantages. Thanks to the galvanized surface, they are not exposed to moisture. In addition, most are equipped with anti-vandal devices. This option is perfect for country houses, in which there are no permanently residing owners. Iron bars for pits will protect not only windows from mechanical damage, but also the home itself from thieves.
Typically, ready-made pits on the market include the following required elements:
- Well body.
- Grills on the windows.
- Set of fastening devices.
The design and manufacture of pits involves certain technological subtleties, but installing ready-made pits is not difficult. Any man (familiar with construction) can cope with this work without the involvement of specialists.
First, you should study in detail the installation instructions for the product. It probably contains all the dimensions of the product that you need to know in order to dig pits for pits. Don't forget about the water drainage system, which has already been mentioned.
The well body is installed in the finished pit, all communications are connected (drainage, drainage, grate on drain pipe). After all the above work, all that remains is to install a fence or grate for the pit, and the structure is ready. All structural elements are attached to each other and to the wall with special dowels, which are included in the product package.
The finished pit is also good because it does not need additional insulation. The only drawback of ready-made structures is their price. This pleasure is not cheap. Therefore, if you are not ready to spend a lot of money, you can try constructing a pit yourself.
Arranging a pit with your own hands
When performing such a construction yourself, you can choose one of the following options:
The well is rectangular in shape.
- Monolithic well (cast from concrete).
- Only the bottom of the pit is filled with concrete, and the walls are lined with bricks or blocks.
In both cases better than walls shape into a rectangle. The thickness of the walls should be about 15 cm. It is desirable that the upper edge of the pit rises 25–35 cm above the ground. Sometimes pits in basements are made level with the ground, but in this case its functional qualities will be lower. The well should not be too deep. Its bottom should be approximately 15–20 cm below the window frame.
Let's take a closer look at the design features of each option.
Monolithic well
The well is semicircular in shape.
For such a pit you will need following materials and tools:
- cement;
- gravel;
- boards and wedges (for formwork);
- iron fittings;
- shovel;
- concrete mixer (or large capacity for diluting the solution);
- roofing felt or geotextiles;
- lath (for compacting the solution);
- container with water.
First of all, you need to dig a pit, determining its dimensions in advance. Then formwork is installed from boards and pegs for concrete walls. If you are planning to construct a pit of any shaped shape (for example, a semicircle), then you can use fiberboard or pieces of old PVC panels for formwork. Reinforcement is used to strengthen the future pit. You can use steel rods or a grate as it. Although this procedure is not mandatory.
Remember that the walls are formed first, and only then the bottom of the pit is filled.
The seam between the wall of the house and the walls of the pit is filled with geotextiles. You can replace it with a couple of layers of roofing felt. Waterproofing will help protect the basement from excess moisture.
When the formwork is ready, you can take on the mortar. Use quality cement so that the pit does not have to be redone in a couple of years. If you have a concrete mixer, the work will be greatly simplified and time-saving. When pouring the solution into the formwork, do not forget to tamp it periodically with a lath so that there are no voids left in the walls. After completely dry concrete, its surface should be treated with bitumen mastic. This is good waterproofing.
If the basement is heated, you should consider insulating the pit, because heat will be lost through it.
It is better to buy a ready-made window grill or weld it yourself from pieces of reinforcement. The canopy over the pit can be made from a profiled sheet or a piece of cellular polycarbonate.
Brick or block construction
The walls can be made of brick, stone or blocks.
For this option, you will need all the tools and materials from the previous paragraph, with the exception of formwork boards, and you will also need less cement and gravel. But you will have to fork out for bricks or foam blocks.
The work also begins with a foundation pit, the walls of which are lined with the selected material. The rest of the pit structure does not differ from the previous version.
The second option is more labor-intensive, since not every person has the ability to lay bricks and blocks. In addition, this option will cost you more.
Decorative finishing of the pit
If you want your structure to not only protect the basement windows, but also decorate the facade of the house, you can think about its decorative finishing.
Ceramic tiles or artificial stone are considered an excellent and functional material for this. Some craftsmen line the walls of the pit with wild stone, which also looks very original. More simple options: cover the walls with clapboard or simply paint.
If the basement windows face a street with heavy pedestrian traffic, it is better to provide a fence for the pit. A good option there will be a metal grate. Steel structures will reliably protect windows from debris, dirt and vandals.
Design option.
If one of the purposes of the pit is, then it is better that its walls are light in color. As you know, light surfaces reflect light better, therefore, more sunlight will penetrate into the basement. Light pits significantly increase the comfort of staying in basements. In addition, by equipping windows with such structures, you can make the most of natural daylight, significantly reducing energy costs for lighting.
When choosing fences and bars for windows, do not forget that you will need to periodically clean the pits from debris and snow. Therefore, these elements must be removable.
By arranging a light (aka protective) pit according to all the rules, you can not only improve the lighting of the interior of the room, but also protect your windows and the basement as a whole.
By choosing a house project with a basement, you acquire significant additional space.
And, of course, it would be unreasonable to use basements only for technical needs and storing all sorts of belongings. And in order to fully use the rooms in the basement as residential ones, it is necessary to install windows in them.
Both for sunlight and natural ventilation premises. In clear sunny weather, a couple of windows are quite sufficient to provide normal level natural light in a medium-sized basement.
And psychologically it is much more comfortable to spend time in a room with windows than in a “concrete cube”, even if well lit by electricity.
Ground floor. Features of window installation - photo gallery
The process of both selecting and installing windows for the basement has some peculiarities.
And it is somewhat different from that for ordinary windows.
The main difficulty is that the windows basements often located either below ground level or at an elevation of ten to twenty centimeters. This means that the windows will bear additional loads, in particular, they will be exposed to excessive humidity.
But, having paid attention to the problem of choice and correct installation enough attention, you will definitely “win this fight.”
Windows in the basement. Which material is preferable
For installation in the basement, you should only choose windows made from modern materials and the latest technologies.
This way you are guaranteed to save your money and time.
And nerves, since replacing new windows that quickly become unusable, of course, will not make you happy.
Which windows are better to choose? What material?
Plastic windows for the basement
Modern windows made of PVC profiles have a light opening ten to fifteen percent larger than windows of the same size made from other materials. And for a basement, fifteen percent is a very significant plus.
Wherein plastic window will not lose its qualities: neither thermal insulation, nor soundproofing qualities, nor structural strength will be affected.
If the base in your house is high enough, then installation metal-plastic windows will be very profitable in financially. Since if the windows are located above ground level or half recessed, then you will not be able to spend money on ordering special designs, but just buy regular budget windows.
The only condition for selection is that the window must have opening sashes (at least one) and with sufficient good level sound and thermal insulation.
Also take care of high-quality waterproofing of the places where the frame comes into contact with the walls of the basement. It is best to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. Although it is expensive, it is effective and reliable.
Aluminum windows for basement
Windows made of aluminum profiles are appropriate to use for basements only if you do not plan to equip the basement for housing.
Since such a window is not capable of sufficiently thermally insulating the room, even if we're talking about about the so-called “warm” aluminum profile.
If you plan to use the basement as a technical room, for example, for a boiler room or storage rooms, then aluminum profile will suit you just fine. For unheated premises its protective qualities are quite sufficient.
And since aluminum windows cheaper than plastic ones, their installation in technical rooms is completely justified.
Number of color variations aluminum structures very extensive and you can always choose the option that suits your interior.
Wooden windows for basement
Wooden windows in basements and semi-basements are installed quite rarely.
Since simple wooden windows made according to old technology, will not withstand operation for a long time in basement conditions. High humidity and the lack of sun and the “drying” effect of the wind will quickly render such frames completely unusable.
And modern wooden windows produced according to innovative technologies made of high-quality wood using various impregnations and varnishes, although they are durable and “hardy”, they are much more expensive than the most expensive and high-quality metal-plastic. This makes their use for basements not entirely financially justifiable.
But, if you still opt for modern wooden windows, you definitely won’t regret it.
No material other than wood will give you such a cozy and “solid” atmosphere. And if your house is built of timber with finishing from natural stone, then the combination with wooden frames it will be just perfect.
Ground floor. Features of window installation
There are several ways to provide high-quality natural lighting in basements and semi-basements.
First of all, this is, of course, the installation of windows.
But it is also possible to use light lanterns and light pits.
The option is selected depending on the design and height of the base and your personal preferences. It is also possible to combine several types of basement glazing.
If the base of your house is high, then the best option There will be installation of regular windows. As they say, “cheap and cheerful.”
But if the windows are half or completely recessed, then there are three possible options:
Window installation
To be able to install a regular window, you will need to dig a pit.
It is usually finished with concrete or brick. The pit can have either a rectangular or semicircular shape and its size should be slightly larger size window.
Sometimes pits are covered with bars, this option has a double benefit - it will protect children or pets from falling into the pit from intruders and will protect them from falling into the pit.
The bottom of the pit should be deepened approximately fifteen to twenty centimeters below the level of the window sill and must be equipped with a drain grate. Otherwise, after rain or spring floods, you will get an “aquarium” instead of a window.
Water must be drained into the system storm sewer or at least use perforated drainage pipe, deepening it a meter into the ground and covering it with crushed stone around it. This way you will get an absorption well that evenly distributes water throughout the soil.
Installation of skylights
Tunnel light lanterns represent corrugated pipe, covered on the inside with reflective material and closed on top with a transparent dome.
One end of the lantern is inserted into the opening made in the wall, the second is brought out to the surface of the pit. To install the lantern, the pit must be closed at the top.
Lanterns are missing less light than windows, but also cost less.
The amount of light depends on the diameter of the lantern, which can have a diameter from twenty-five to fifty-five centimeters, and on the orientation of the dome relative to the cardinal points. Also make sure that the lantern is not covered by anything, such as a bush, flower bed or tree.
One light lantern with a diameter of twenty-five centimeters will effectively illuminate no more than four square meters rooms with a diameter of thirty-five centimeters - up to six meters, and fifty-five - “cope” with a room up to twenty-five square meters.
Some models of tunnel lights can be equipped with a frame with a lamp. At night, such a lantern will turn into a type of lamp - a sconce.
OOO " Drainage systems and technologies" is our company, which has been supplying Russian market products for professional water disposal and drainage manufactured by Russian and foreign manufacturers.
We carry out wholesale supplies of products such as water inlets, storm inlets, drains, storm inlets, shower trays, channels for pools, hatches for tiles, check valves and much more.
We work only with companies that occupy leading positions in this industry. These include EuroPlast Ltd (Italy), ASO and Hauraton (Germany), Gidrolika (Russia).
The impeccable quality of the products of these companies is guaranteed by all necessary certificates. All products are stored in Moscow warehouses.
A wide dealer network makes it possible to represent the entire line of drainage systems in many cities of the country. But we do not stop there and are constantly expanding our network and product range, since the demand for quality systems drainage is actively growing.
We invite companies and individuals from St. Petersburg and Moscow to cooperate. One of the principles of our company is to always meet our customers.
Drainage
Drainage Systems and Technologies LLC offers you to buy a drainage system.
Melting snow in spring, summer showers and prolonged autumn rains will turn any most comfortable city into a rather dirty and dull place. And how many problems will flooded basements, trees killed by excess water and collapsing foundations of houses bring! But fortunately, modern cities are not threatened by all this. Already many centuries ago, people began to use drainage systems that were constantly improved - from simple trenches, gutters lined with tiles, to modern grates that we are used to seeing on the streets.
Drainage systems are very important especially in crowded areas and areas with high traffic flow. Gas stations, airfields, ports, warehouses, cargo terminals, sports complexes cannot do without them. industrial enterprises. Drainage extends the life of an object and protects it from destruction.
Plumbing drain
You can also purchase a plumbing drain from us. Its main task is to capture water, eliminate unpleasant odor in an apartment or private house. It is necessary wherever there is a sewerage system. By the way, another name of this product- water castle. They are installed in the floor or under the sink.
Drainage trays in Moscow
A drainage tray is included in the design of any drainage system. This product is necessary to remove excess water accumulated after rain or melting snow. Drainage trays are installed near road curbs, water drainpipe and near the annular blind area (at the end). Lattice drainage tray is the primary filter.
Hatch for tiles
With us you also have the opportunity to buy a tile hatch in Moscow. Such hatches are installed under tiles in bathrooms under toilets, sinks and bathtubs. Thanks to ceramic tiles, which is glued to the structure from the outside, such a hatch becomes invisible.
Storm water inlet in Moscow
The storm water inlet is one of the essential elements storm sewer. Its role is to collect water not only from pipes, but also that which flows down road surface. The storm water inlet perfectly prevents the formation of puddles.
You can see all the listed and many other products on our website. It is also easy to place an order through the company’s online resource or contact our specialists.
Light pits ACO “Therm / Markant” — is a system for ventilation and lighting of basements and ground floors. The design allows you to avoid flooding of the room, as it performs the function of draining groundwater and precipitation. The white surface of the pit body reflects light, and the hermetically sealed fastening to the wall prevents groundwater from entering the pit itself and, as a result, into the room. The basement always remains dry, even during very heavy rainfall.
The ACO Therm / Markant grille allows you to open the basement windows for ventilation without fear of outsiders entering the room. The grille is equipped with special anti-vandal fastenings. The system is very durable and protects the home from unwanted entry.
ACO "Therm/Markant" pits are made of polypropylene or polyester with glass fiber reinforcement. This ensures the strength and durability of the structure and minimizes routine maintenance and repairs. The system is hermetically attached to the wall, providing excellent waterproofing. The pit grate is made of steel and equipped with an anti-vandal mechanism.
Light pits ACO “Therm / Markant” are:
- optimal lighting and ventilation of the basement;
- strength and tightness;
- durability of the structure;
- protection against unwanted entry into the building;
- various size options;
- height adjustment;
- easy installation.
You can install the system yourself, without the help of specialists. "ACO Therm / Markant" pits are produced in various options, differing in the type of grille, dimensions and body material: 
- lattice - looped or in the form of a grid;
- material - polypropylene or polyester;
- height can be changed using extensions.
The manufacturer offers the following pit sizes:
- length 80-25 cm;
- width 60-130 cm;
- depth 40-60 cm.
For each size, there is an optimal distance from the foundation wall for installing the system - from 40 to 70 cm. Basic system Includes housing, grille and installation components. If desired, you can supplement the design with anti-vandal fastening, extensions and sewer inlet.
| Size, cm (W*H*D) |
Design gratings |
Class loads |
vendor code | Price, RUR/piece |
 |
| ACO Therm / Markant Light pits with grille and installation kit - 40 cm deep (load class A15, B125) | |||||
| 80*60*40 | Mesh | A15 | 35600 | 16 163 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 35604 | 16 363 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35608 | 18 014 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 35612 | 24 769 | ||
| 100*60*40 | Mesh | A15 | 35601 | 17 364 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 35605 | 17 864 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35609 | 19 615 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 35613 | 26 871 | ||
| 100*100*40 | Mesh | A15 | 35602 | 20 816 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 35606 | 21 317 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35610 | 23 068 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 35614 | 30 374 | ||
| 100*130*40 | Mesh | A15 | 35603 | 26 170 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 35607 | 26 721 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35611 | 28 472 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 35615 | 35 728 | ||
| 125*100*40 | Mesh | A15 | 35904 | 28 072 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 35905 | 28 922 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35906 | 30 474 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 35907 | 41 432 | ||
| Size, cm (W*H*D) |
Design gratings |
Class loads |
vendor code | Price, RUR/piece |
 |
| ACO Therm / Markant Extension - depth 40 cm (height 27.5 cm) (load class A15, B125) | |||||
| 80*60*40 | A15 | 315911 | 16 263 | ||
| 100*60/100/130*40 | 315912 | 17 213 | |||
| 125*100*40 | 315913 | 21 367 | |||
| 800*60/100/130*40 | B125 | 315922 | 16 263 | ||
| 100*60/100/130*40 | 315923 | 17 213 | |||
| 125*60/100/130*40 | 315924 | 21 367 | |||
The same can be installed to a depth of up to 180cm using extensions (no more than three).
| Size, cm (W*H*D) |
Design gratings |
Class loads |
vendor code | Price, RUR/piece |
 |
| ACO Therm / Markant Light pits - 50/60 cm deep (load class A15, B125) | |||||
| 80*80*50 | Mesh | A15 | 00452 | 22 968 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 02432 | 25 270 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35560 | 28 672 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 02519 | 34 277 | ||
| 100*80*50 | Mesh | A15 | 00454 | 26 170 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 02433 | 29 873 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35561 | 32 225 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 02520 | 42 183 | ||
| 100*100*50 | Mesh | A15 | 00456 | 28 222 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 02434 | 31 925 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35562 | 34 327 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 02521 | 44 285 | ||
| 100*130*50 | Mesh | A15 | 00458 | 37 629 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 02435 | 41 332 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35563 | 43 684 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 02522 | 53 642 | ||
| 125*130*60 | Mesh | A15 | 00460 | 44 535 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 02436 | 48 338 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 35564 | 53 242 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | B125 | 02523 | 64 901 | ||
| ACO Therm / Markant Extension - depth 50/60 cm (height 27 cm) (load class A15, B125) | |||||
| 80*80*50 | A15 | 315914 | 17 664 | |
|
| 100*80/100/130*50 | 315915 | 18 565 | |||
| 125*130*60 | 315916 | 23 468 | |||
| 80*80/100/130*50 | B125 | 315925 | 17 664 | ||
| 100*80/100/130*50 | 315926 | 18 565 | |||
| 125*130*60 | 315927 | 23 468 | |||
| Size, cm (W*H*D) |
Design gratings |
Class loads |
vendor code | Price, RUR/piece |
 |
|
ACO Therm / Markant Light pits (fiberglass) with grille and installation kit - 70 cm deep (load class A15) |
|||||
| 150*100*70 | Mesh | A15 | 38776 | 169 983 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 38777 | 176 188 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 38778 | 185 195 | |||
| 150*150*70 | Mesh | A15 | 38779 | 193 001 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 38780 | 199 206 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 38781 | 208 213 | |||
| 200*100*70 | Mesh | A15 | 38782 | 234 633 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 38783 | 239 087 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 38784 | 256 951 | |||
| 200*150*70 | Mesh | A15 | 38785 | 254 799 | |
| Cellular 30/30 | 38786 | 259 253 | |||
| Cellular 30/10 | 38787 | 277 067 | |||
| ACO Therm / Markant Extension - depth 70 cm (height 27 cm) | |||||
| 150*100/150*70 | A15 | 315917 | 32 525 | ||
| ACO Therm / Markant Covering made of tempered glass (with a fixing strip on the wall of the house), without the possibility of applying any load |  |
||||
| Pit size, cm (Sh*Sh) |
Dimensions plastic covering |
vendor code | Price, RUR/piece |
||
| 80*40 | 95*48 | 35592 | 15 162 | ||
| 100*40 | 122*48 | 35593 | 16 213 | ||
| 125*40 | 155*48 | 35902 | 18 815 | ||
| 80*50 | 99*58 | 37495 | 16 563 | ||
| 100*50 | 122*58 | 37496 | 18 264 | ||
| 125*60 | 150*68 | 37497 | 23 068 | ||
Grating types:
Mesh 30x10mm, mesh 30x30mm, mesh
Load classes:
B125 - allowable collision with a wheel passenger car
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In addition to underground, buildings can have ground, basement and underground floors.
Tsokolny- floor when the floor mark is placed below the planning mark of the ground to a height of no more than half the height of the premises.
Basement– floor when the floor level of the premises is below the planning level of the ground by more than half the height of the premises.
Underground- a floor with the floor level of the room below the planning ground level for the entire height of the room.
Elements of the arrangement of the underground part of the building are entrances to the basement, pits, and blind areas.
Entrances to the basement are usually arranged in the form of single-flight stairs open to the outside, located in special pits adjacent to external wall building and enclosed by a retaining wall.
To protect from precipitation, such a pit is covered with a roof (sometimes translucent).
The entrance walls are made of 250 mm thick brick, slag concrete stones (190 mm), monolithic reinforced concrete (200 mm), prefabricated reinforced concrete blocks (300 mm).
In multi-storey buildings, the entrance to the basement is usually made from a staircase inside the building, and in manor residential buildings, most often - from the first floor under the flight of interfloor stairs. In this case, it is advisable to isolate the entrance from the first floor by installing a fence on all sides and a door on the first floor.
Slope external staircase, as a rule, 1:2 (150x300 mm), internal 35-45°, width - at least 900 mm.
Blind areas. One of the ways to isolate the underground part of buildings from surface water is to install a blind area made of asphalt, asphalt concrete, cobblestone, flat stones, concrete, and figured paving elements (FEM) around the building outside.
The width of the blind area depends on the type of soil and the amount of cornice overhang (200 mm more than the cornice overhang) and is accepted as 600-1000 mm. The transverse slope (from the building) is 5-10% for crushed stone and cobblestone blind areas and 3-5% for asphalt concrete and concrete ones.
The base material is selected to ensure the waterproofness of the blind area as a whole. Sand is mainly used with a bedding layer of fatty clay or concrete.
Light pits. To illuminate and ventilate basements and basements, windows are installed in the outer walls below ground level, and in front of the windows there are wells called pits.
The walls of the pits are made of brick, concrete with waterproofing on the outer surface and must be at least 150 mm above the ground level. The bottom of the pit is made of concrete with a slope of 1.5% from the building.
It is advisable to cover the pit from above with a decorative metal grille with a translucent coating (for example, made of a polycarbonate sheet).
Rice. 6.18. Light pit plan
Swimming pools can be designed in almost any shape and size. The pool bowl is made of monolithic reinforced concrete. After pouring the concrete, the inner surfaces of the bowl are leveled with plaster mixtures, and after the plaster layer has dried, a PVC “liner” film is installed, which is both waterproofing and lining of the pool.
The set of equipment for sewerless swimming pools includes:
Non-sewage filter unit;
Electric heater or heat exchanger;
Hydromassage;
Accessories for pool care;
A set of pool water care products.
