When installing lighting and socket circuits in structures for various purposes, one of the main elements is socket boxes. They are designed to securely fix sockets or switches in wooden walls to prevent fire in the event of a short circuit. Products come in various types and materials, for hidden and external wiring. Depending on installation conditions and functional purpose network, a specific type is selected and the appropriate installation methodology is applied. In this article we will tell you how to install a socket box in a wall made of various materials, and we will study the installation features.

All socket boxes for installation in walls can be divided according to the following criteria:

• According to the material of manufacture;
• For open or hidden wiring;
• By design, depending on the building material of the walls;
• By size.

How individual look You can select socket boxes for installation in the structure of baseboards, when the wiring is laid in the cable ducts of plastic or aluminum baseboards.

Materials for making socket boxes

The main materials for making socket boxes are metal and non-flammable plastic.

Metal socket boxes are stamped with a press from galvanized iron sheets.

In most cases, they are used for installing hidden electrical wiring in wooden walls, this reduces the likelihood of a fire due to a short circuit.

Modern plastic socket boxes are various forms and sizes, depending on the functional purpose, on which walls they are installed.
Plastic socket boxes for baseboard wiring have a square body and a relief that matches the shape of the baseboard on the back wall.

Standard shapes and sizes of socket boxes

Old style metal socket boxes

When manufacturing socket boxes, manufacturers adhere to the standards of the main models of sockets so that their fastenings and dimensions match.

The metal socket boxes are of the old type and therefore the choice of their sizes is not wide. There are models with internal diameter 65 mm, glass depth in all cases 45 mm.

The technological holes can be closed, but stamped with lines; if necessary, they can be easily opened by squeezing out the closing part with pliers from the desired side. Read also the article: → "".

Plastic socket boxes for installation in concrete and brick walls have several types of designs:

• Standard;

• With increased glass depth;
• Oval shaped for installing several sockets from 2-5 pcs;
• Prefabricated blocks on one platform up to 5 pcs.

• Socket boxes for drywall

Plastic socket box with clamping strips for installation in hollow walls, plasterboard, chipboard and other materials

• Socket boxes for baseboards

Installation of metal socket boxes in wooden walls

Preliminary markings are made of the installation locations of sub-sockets and wire routes, which are laid in rigid or corrugated metal pipes. The holes for the socket cups are drilled with special wood bits of the appropriate diameter. The wires are laid in cut grooves and entered into the sub-socket through technological holes made on several sides. The grooves are masked with clapboard or other decorative materials. This method significantly complicates finishing.

It is easier and safer to lay external wiring on wooden walls using corrugated pipes and plastic cable ducts made of non-flammable material. Some cable ducts are colored with the structure of wood of various species, which allows you to successfully select harmony with the overall interior. Sometimes wires are laid over ceramic insulators evenly spaced along the line.

Wooden socket boxes for external wiring are rarely used, mostly for decorative purposes.

Surface-mounted sockets and switches do not need to be buried; they can be screwed directly to the walls, through a metal or asbestos gasket. Read also the article: → "".

Installation of socket boxes in concrete and brick walls

The difficulty in installing socket boxes in these walls lies in drilling holes in a solid surface.

For this purpose, special crowns with diamond, tungsten or pobedit teeth are used. After drilling, a number of standard operations are carried out:

• Wires are laid along the walls and secured to the concrete with plastic clips with nails of increased rigidity. When struck sharply with a hammer, they penetrate perfectly into concrete and brick surfaces.
• The ends of the wires are inserted 15-20 cm into holes drilled in the concrete, after which the walls are plastered.
• After the plaster has dried, the wires are threaded into the socket box, which is installed in a hole in the wall using gypsum mortar.
• When the plaster has dried, the walls have been painted or other decorative finishing has been done, it will be possible to cut the wires, connect and attach the socket or switch.

Tip #1. Please note that the socket box is installed after plastering the walls, otherwise it will be difficult to calculate the installation depth of the glass. If you recess it completely level with the wall surface, it will be 1-2 cm deeper after plastering. Set above level concrete surface This is not possible due to the unknown exact thickness of the plaster in this place. To avoid level changes and to ensure that the socket is pressed tightly against the wall surface, the socket box must be installed on a plastered wall.

Socket boxes with increased glass depth are used when several more sockets, switches or other wiring elements are connected to the network from one socket. In this case, a large number of wires are installed in order to accommodate them, the socket box is made deeper.

Installation of socket boxes in plasterboard, plywood, chipboard walls with hollow space

For this case, the socket boxes have a special design with clamping strips. The installation sequence includes the following operations:

• In most cases, the wiring is installed behind a plasterboard wall;
• When installing the structure, marks are made on the front side of the wall where the socket boxes will be placed;
• Then in drywall special device holes are drilled, wires are pulled out 15 -20 cm;
• Wires are threaded into the technological holes, the socket box is inserted into the hole;
• By rotating the screwdriver of the bolts on the body of the socket box, the strips press it with reverse side to the wall surface;

An example of how a socket box is pressed against drywall

• After finishing the front surface of the wall, you can install and connect sockets.

Approximate prices for fastening elements and socket boxes for hollow walls

Elements	Dimensions in mm	COST in RUB.
Screw for fixing sockets	3.1:10 mm	6
Screw for fixing sockets	3.1:25 mm	8
Single box box	Ø 68mm, glass height 50mm	75
Regular box	Ø 68mm, cup depth 65mm	90
Box with two glasses	Ø 2x68mm, cup depth 50mm	180
Box for installing sconces	Ø 35mm, cup depth 40mm	130

Installation of socket boxes for wiring laid in baseboards

Plastic skirting boards with cable ducts provide for the installation of specially shaped socket boxes in their design. These socket boxes have the shape of a box with holes for mounting the socket:

• At the installation site, a hole is made in the plinth for the wires to exit, or on the laying line, gaps are provided between the sections of the plinth.
• The relief of the back wall of the socket box perfectly matches the external relief of the baseboard, so they fit tightly together, the body of the socket box is screwed to the wall or floor;
• The wires are pulled out and connected to the socket terminals;
• The socket is inserted into the socket box and secured with screws.

Tip #2. In the absence of a socket box of the appropriate profile, the socket can be installed closely above the baseboard, with a design for hidden or external wiring. Surface-mounted sockets are easier to install; the wire from the plinth passes through a small recess in the wall into the socket body and looks very aesthetically pleasing.

Tools and attachments used for drilling holes for socket boxes in walls made of various materials

To drill holes, use a conventional hammer drill with replaceable attachments:

• Crowns are used for drilling concrete or brick walls various diameters with diamond, pobeditov or tungsten teeth.

In the center of the cylinder there is a guide drill, which holds the bit within the specified diameter when drilling.
After the crown has passed to a given depth, the brick or concrete components inside the diameter are knocked out with a regular chisel and hammer

Sizes and costs of crowns from different manufacturers

Brand	Manufacturer	Length in mm	Cutting elements	Ømm
Messer	South Korea	70	3 pcs	68	3 090
Projahn 81565	Germany	50	6pcs	65	3 310
Versio Projahn 852065		100	16pcs	68	7 400
Bosch 2.608.550.0		60	6pcs		5 190
Practice 035-172	Russia	68	8pcs		830
Master Stayer 29190-68	Germany	133			740
Santool SDS Max	China	140			520

• For drilling wooden surfaces The principle is similar, but the teeth have a shape and material suitable for drilling wood.

The advantage of this design of the nozzle is that there is no need to knock out the internal elements; they are completely cleaned.

Thickness and other parameters of some types of drywall:

GKL
Material grade	Length in mm	Width in mm	Thickness in mm
GVL	1500 2000 2500 2700 3000	500 1000 1200	10 12.5 15 18 20
Moisture resistant	2000 — 4500	1200 — 1300	6 — 13

The plates with teeth must be made of high-quality hardened steel, otherwise they will be enough for 2-3 holes. The depth of the crowns varies and is selected according to the thickness of the material to be drilled.

• Drywall can be easily drilled with any attachments for wood or concrete.

Grooves in concrete, brick and wooden walls are sawn through with a grinder using special discs.

There are industrial wall chasers, but they are very expensive and only pay for themselves when working in large volumes. construction companies.

Wood cutting disc

Errors when installing socket boxes

• Drywall, plywood chipboard are drilled in drilling mode, hammer drills often forget to switch from impact mode, as a result of which the surface immediately breaks, especially gypsum board.
• During installation open wiring on wooden walls, they often forget to install asbestos plates under cable ducts and sockets. This is required by the governing documents of the PUE and is necessary for reasons of one’s own safety. Such measures significantly reduce the likelihood of a fire. Read also the article: → "".
• During installation, the top edge of the socket box should be installed flush with front side walls and decorative coating. Otherwise, the socket may not be attracted to the wall or the mounting bolts will not reach the socket;
• The level of plaster within the socket box must be perfectly level, then the socket will fit tightly to the wall; if the level of plaster changes, gaps may form between the wall and the body of the sockets;
• The wires are inserted into the socket box before it is secured with a plaster solution, the length of the ends is not shorter than 15-20 cm, so that it is enough to remove the insulation and fasten the contacts. With short wires, it will be inconvenient to connect sockets and switches and install them in a socket box.

FAQ

Question No. 1. The wall is made of chipboard, there are no metal socket boxes with clamping strips, can you put plastic glasses on wood?

Most modern building materials are made non-flammable, including plastic socket boxes and chipboard.

Question No. 2. I'm going to plaster concrete wall, is it necessary to make grooves for wiring?

It is enough to secure the wire compactly with clips and plaster it, but at the same time make recesses for inserting the wires into the technological holes of the socket cup; they cannot be inserted from above.

Question No. 3. Is it possible to lay a wire between the logs in a wooden house and bury it?

Only in metal pipes or non-flammable cable ducts.

Question No. 4. Can deep socket boxes be used as distribution boxes?

Yes, there is a special installation method in this way; this issue requires separate consideration.

The socket box is an important component of the socket, the correct installation of which determines the reliability of its fastening and much more.

Behind Lately, the number of electrical appliances used in everyday life has increased significantly and therefore the installation of a new electrical point is required quite often. In this regard, instructions on how to install a socket box are quite in demand among home craftsmen.

An important role is played by which wall the outlet is supposed to be mounted into. There are two types: solid and hollow (frame).

Solid: wooden (timber, logs) and stone (brick, concrete, foam blocks, etc.)

Peculiarities:

• the hole being drilled is 5-10 mm larger than the diameter of the socket box: the gap is filled with a fixing solution;
• The socket box of the simplest design is used - without clamping strips.

Invoices used in garages and outbuildings are easier to install; socket boxes for them are not discussed in this article.

Number of power points

When installing several sockets side by side, you need to determine the center distance between them, proceed in one of the following ways:

1. purchase a block of socket boxes. In it, the glasses are connected by jumpers and spaced from each other at the correct distance (usually 71 mm). All that remains is to transfer their outlines to the wall;
2. when installing separate sockets: place the front panels on the table next to each other and measure the center distances between them.

Those who do professional installation make a template in the form of a rail with the centers of the holes marked, or a stencil with slots.

Classification of socket boxes

Socket boxes are classified according to several criteria.

According to the material:

1. plastic. The most common. They are inexpensive and quite durable;
2. metal. They are superior to the previous version in terms of strength and reliability, but are rarely used, since the quality of the plastic for attaching the socket is quite sufficient. In addition, when using a metal socket box, the likelihood of short circuit in him. The use of these products, due to their non-flammability, is justified when installing hidden wiring in walls made of logs or timber. They are installed by wrapping them with basalt cardboard or other non-flammable heat insulator.

Structurally:

1. for installation in solid walls. Structural elements there are only inside - ebbs for attaching the socket;
2. for installation in frame wall. In addition to the ebbs inside, they have clamping strips on the outside and a flange at the end. When the screws connected to the strips rotate, the wall sheathing is clamped between them and the flange.

By installation method:

1. built-in. They look like a glass and are installed in a hole in the wall;
2. invoices. This is a plate screwed to the wall with dowels. Surface-mounted sockets are installed not only in rooms with low aesthetic requirements (garages, outbuildings), but sometimes also in residential ones. For example, above the baseboard, if the wire is laid behind it.

By form:

1. round. The most common option;
2. oval. Used to install two devices, for example, a socket and a switch;
3. square. They are rare. Basically, overhead socket boxes have this form.

The socket box for a frame wall can be installed in a solid wall - you just need to bite off the clamping strips with pliers. It is impossible to install a socket box for a solid wall in a frame wall.

Glass sizes

Socket boxes for conventional installation, offered by domestic manufacturers, have an outer diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 45 mm. Enlarged models are also available - 60 and 80 mm deep. They are used when it is necessary to place a switch in the electrical socket, for example, when serial connection sockets () or the absence of a separate junction box.

Socket boxes for frame walls have a shallower depth - up to 25 mm. Products foreign manufacturers may vary slightly in size. For example, the diameter of Schneider Electric brand sockets is 65 mm, Legrand brand - 70 mm.

Such minor differences in diameter usually do not matter much, since they vary within the range of the socket mounting spacers (the position is adjusted with screws). However, it is recommended to go to the store for a socket box with a socket for trying on.

Preparation for installation and marking

At the preparatory stage, you should decide on the location new socket and the trajectory of laying the wire to it.

There are two installation methods:

1. eurostandard: 15-30 cm from the floor. It is convenient if the device is turned on constantly - the cord lies on the floor and does not block the room;
2. Soviet GOST: 100 cm from the floor. Convenient if appliances are often turned on and off from the socket - you don’t have to bend over.

European standard for the height of sockets and switches

The minimum distance from the socket to the corner, floor, ceiling, door and window openings- 15 cm. To a gas stove or heating device - 50 cm. The wires are laid horizontally and vertically: they are led along the ceiling (also 15 cm from it) to a point above the location of the future outlet, then lowered to it.

In order to save the wire, it is not allowed to lay it diagonally: then it will be difficult to remember the trajectory if you need to drill into the wall, for example, to install a shelf.

Having decided, draw with a simple pencil the wire route and the center of the hole for the socket. If there are several sockets, the centers of the holes for them are marked with horizontal control using a building level. Then, according to the markings, a groove (groove) is cut in the wall for laying the cable.

Making holes in the wall

A hole in the wall is made in several ways:

1. crown. Preferred option: it turns out relatively quickly and smoothly. Drill to the required depth, then knock out the resulting cylinder with a hammer and chisel. To avoid overheating, cold water is supplied to the bit during drilling. To drill with a drill you need a crown with center drill. If it is not there, use a tool designed for stationary drilling machine. A drill can be equipped with it only if a jig is used - a board with a hole of the same diameter, which plays the role of a guide;
2. hammer and chisel;
3. drill. In impact mode, a drill is used to drill many holes located close to each other, then use a chisel to knock out the spaces between them. This method is also used in conjunction with a crown, if it is very worn: several holes are drilled along the contour with a drill, then the gaps between them are selected with a crown.

After making the hole, the bottom of the grooves on the approach to it is deepened obliquely so that it is possible to insert the wire into the socket box through back wall. Next, they are mounted in the groove in corrugated pipe wire and seal it with mortar. The wire is cut to such a length that a free end of the cable of at least 20 cm remains from the socket box.

A hole is drilled in drywall using a wood crown, turning off the impact mode and without pressing hard on the drill.

Installation of socket boxes

Installation of a socket box in a solid wall is carried out in the following order:

1. Using any available tool, cut a hole for the wire on the back side of the socket box. There are already notches for several holes here - you should choose the appropriate one. A wire is laid through the hole in the socket box;
2. when connecting the socket, the outer general insulation of the cable is cut so that it remains in the place where it passes through the hole in the wall of the socket box. This prevents the cores from being damaged by the edges of the hole;
3. A small amount of gypsum, alabaster or cement mortar is placed in the recess. It is not allowed to replace it construction foam, since this flammable material(foamed polymer polyurethane);
4. Install the socket box into the recess so that its front edge is flush with the wall surface. Excess solution is removed, and if there is a shortage, add it with a spatula;
5. when the solution has set slightly, its traces are removed from inner surface socket box.

Installation of a socket box in a frame wall is done as follows:

• the part is inserted into the hole so that the flange at the end rests against the wall;
• By rotating special screws, the clamping strips are tightened so that the wall is clamped between them and the flange.

Useful video

How to install a socket box in a wall:

As you can see, installing the socket box is not difficult. The main thing is to choose the right product so that the socket matches it in size and holds firmly. To do this, you should take the socket with you when you go to the store to buy a socket.

Without reliable wiring, life in an apartment or house immediately loses its comfort. To make the conditions as comfortable as possible, it is worth taking care of everything related to electrics. Socket boxes are no exception. Without them, it is simply impossible to install a high-quality outlet that will withstand maximum loads.

What is a socket box and what are its types?

Socket boxes are special boxes that are made of various materials (usually plastic or metal). The main task of this instrument is to seal holes in the wall and install an outlet in it.

The best material for manufacturing is plastic. The socket rests on it confidently and reliably. Metal socket boxes (also called sleeves) are usually used only in wooden houses, as this is required by safety regulations. The decrease in demand for sleeves is explained by the fact that such devices have a weaker connection with sockets (compared to plastic analogues). In addition, their sharp edges can damage important wires.

Types of socket boxes

Any socket box is not suitable for installation. They must be selected depending on the wall in which they will be installed. There are 2 data groups in total:

• On concrete walls. From the name it becomes obvious that the installation of such socket boxes is carried out in a concrete wall. But besides this, they are suitable for foam and aerated concrete, brick and expanded clay coatings.
• For plasterboard surfaces, as well as for structures made of plywood and chipboard, tools from a different group are used.

Preparatory work

After purchasing a socket box, special preparatory work should be carried out. This won't take much time. The main thing is to carry out qualitative assessment walls.

Attention ! In some cases, instead of one electrical outlet, a whole block of combined several devices is used. When installing them, do not forget about the distance between the centers of each socket box.

Installation in concrete

When the socket box has been purchased, the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to installation. However, it is unlikely that anyone will be able to install socket boxes into a concrete wall with bare hands. Therefore, you will definitely need the following tools:

• Drill with drill bit for concrete;
• Hammer;
• Special crowns for drilling concrete. Their diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the mounted device;
• Regular pencil and ruler;
• Chisel with hammer;
• Grinder with a special blade for concrete;
• Putty knife;
• Gypsum. Suitable for both construction and medical;
• Paper knife

Tools such as a grinder or a hammer drill are a must. If you don’t have your own tools, you can rent them from specialized construction stores.

When the entire arsenal is collected, you can move on to the next stage.

Marking and making holes for the socket box

Before installation, be sure to accurately mark the location where the socket box will be installed. The height of future sockets and switches is selected individually, but if desired, you can use the following professional standards:

• IN living rooms sockets are placed at a height of 30 cm from the covered floor;
• In the kitchen, for convenience, the height from the floor reaches 120 cm;
• Switch height - 90 cm.

After determining the optimal height, a socket box is placed in the desired location. The outline is outlined with a pencil.

Now before installation all that remains is to drill the required hole. To do this, a special round crown is placed on the hammer drill. It resembles a small piece of pipe with sharp teeth that will drill through the wall. You should drill until the crown is completely embedded in the wall. After this, the central part, using a chisel, is refined in depth.

Advice ! To make it easier for the crown to cut the necessary holes, you can make holes in the center of the markings using a drill.

If you don't have a crown, you can use other methods. There are only 2 of them and each is radically different. In the first case, a hammer drill or drill with a special drill (Pobedit) is used. Along the contour of the marked circle, special holes are drilled as deep as possible. They should be close to each other. After this, the central part is knocked out with a chisel. The advantage of this method is speed. Using a crown will quickly heat up the power tool, so it needs to rest periodically. Therefore, it can take all day to make 12-15 indentations. In this case there is no such drawback.

You can also prepare a place for a socket box using a grinder. To do this, use a pencil and ruler again. The circled outline should be converted into a square by drawing one straight line on each side. After this, you should walk along straight lines with a grinder. Also, as in previous versions, the middle is knocked out with a chisel.

Depth adjustment

After the hole is made, you should check whether the socket box fits completely into it. Ideally, the device should be clearly flush with the wall. In this case, the future socket or switch will be close to the wall.

Advice ! The socket box has an unnecessary edge. When cut, the device will fit perfectly into the wall.

After this, a groove is made in the wall, which will allow the wire to be connected. It, in turn, is inserted into the socket box from the back. After threading the wire, the tool is inserted into the hole made.

The final stage

Almost all the work has been done, all that remains is to fix the socket boxes using a special solution. It needs to be prepared in small quantities and only before embedding, since it begins to harden within a few minutes. To prepare it, you must gradually add water to the plaster. The mixture is constantly stirred. The result should be a mass whose consistency resembles thick sour cream.

Important ! Before performing work, the hole should be washed with water, thus removing excess dust.

When all the moisture has been absorbed, a solution is laid out into the hole with a spatula, into which the socket box with the wire is inserted. It should be installed carefully so that it does not protrude, otherwise obvious defects will be noticeable in the future. After this, all cracks are sealed with the remaining solution.

Installation in a brick wall

Installing socket boxes in a brick wall is no different from the option described above. That is, you will need all the same tools. The method of making holes is also suitable for any of those already indicated. But the installation of socket boxes in drywall is somewhat different. This will be discussed further

Socket box in a plasterboard wall

Before installing the device, you should carefully prepare the surface. To prevent it from crumbling or breaking during the drilling process, you should treat the wall with a large amount of primer, which will strengthen its structure.

When the drywall is dry, you can proceed to drilling holes. For this you can use either special crowns or a simple drill using assembly knife. It is important that the hole is the same diagonal as the installation box. To achieve this, it is recommended that you first mark it in the same way as in the case of a concrete wall.

When the holes are ready, a box is inserted into them, from which all jumpers that do not allow the cable to be inserted must first be removed. To ensure strength, the socket box should be tightened tightly with screws. Also, the seat (before fixing) can be additionally puttied. This will also strengthen the structure.

Installing an outlet

Installing a socket in a socket box is final stage. This procedure only takes a few minutes, but you should adhere to the following rules:

• From the very beginning it should be removed top cover. To do this, a bolt is unscrewed in the center.
• Then you should loosen the contacts into which the wires are inserted. To avoid overheating in the future, the contacts should be tightened as tightly as possible.

How to install socket boxes

It is very possible that you already do not have enough sockets in your apartment and want to add a few, especially if renovations are underway. How and with what to drill a niche for socket boxes? Do I need to buy an expensive crown or make do with hammer drills? You will learn about this further in this article.

For cutting holes or niches for socket boxes in a brick wall, an inexpensive crown - the best option. Brick is very soft material, compared to concrete or titanium. It is unlikely that you will need to install sockets in a titanium wall. It is unlikely that you have a titanium wall in your apartment. But concrete is quite likely. To drill holes for socket boxes in concrete you will need a very good crown and a good hammer drill with at least active system bite protection. Otherwise, if you have an inexpensive but powerful Chinese hammer drill, you risk dislocating your wrist. This is possible if the crown gets stuck in the concrete. And the power of the rotary hammer is 950-1200 W. will provide you with a visit to a traumatologist. A hammer drill of less power simply will not cope with the task.

You can, of course, buy a thousand crown for 5-6 rubles. And a hammer drill, over thirty thousand. Drill a couple of holes, break its teeth and curse the hour when you decided to make these purchases. But if you need to install just 10-12 socket boxes, it’s easier and cheaper to use a regular hammer drill and a chisel for it. And there is no need to buy an expensive hammer drill, which we are amazed by in videos on You Tube.

First, let's examine the socket boxes for installation in concrete or brick. They have no significant differences. In principle, for a single socket or switch, you can purchase absolutely any socket box. If you need to install several sockets in a row, then it is better to buy models that connect into an infinite number of sockets. You can also find ready-made “double”, “triple” and “quadruple” socket boxes on sale. Their design is more rigid than those connected in a chain. They are easier to install in the wall due to their rigidity in maintaining plane, but they also cost several times more. In general, the choice is yours. I will show you using cheap socket boxes as an example.

So, you want to move a switch, an outlet, or move an outlet and increase the number of them.

First, of course, you should decide how many sockets or, as they also say, “places” will be located in one place or another. Basic principle here it’s like: “There can’t be too many sockets!” Let me remind you that both power sockets (220 V) and low-current sockets, that is, telephone, television and Internet, can be combined into one line. It is better to place low-current sockets on the edge of power outlets. This makes it more convenient and correct to stretch the wire. The distance between the power and low-current wires should be at least some (just kidding). In general, these cables should not be laid side by side to avoid exposure to electromagnetic fields. In the best case, an antenna, telephone or Internet wire should be in a shielded sheath. And the closest distance between them will be two sockets, to which they approach with different sides. Then, guaranteed, your Internet will be free from troubles in the form of electromagnetic waves. I will add that 15 cm between the shielded low-current cable and the 220 V power cable is a sufficient distance for normal operation of the TV and the Internet. Tested by experience. Those who are not satisfied with my statements can turn to specialized literature. So, you have decided how many outlets you will have in this area of ​​the wall. I don't recommend more than five. You simply won't find a strip that combines six sockets. I was not lucky enough to meet one like this on this planet. But maybe you'll get lucky.

Next you need to choose a place to locate these outlets. Here the most correct thing would be not to adhere to some mythical rules and norms, but to do what is most convenient for you. To make it convenient to turn on the plug and pull it out if necessary. So as not to look for sockets under the table, bed or behind the closet. But you shouldn’t install it in the most visible place, like a painting. I am sure that you are able to solve this problem yourself. That's not what the article is about. Draw according to the level strictly horizontal line. Place the front side of your socket boxes against the wall, centering along the line, and outline them with a pencil. Stand back and admire. Here there will be socket boxes first, and then the sockets themselves.

Load a 6-8 mm drill bit into the hammer drill. and drill, slightly beyond the contour marks of the socket boxes, holes 6 cm deep.

It is better to immediately drill 5-8 mm wider than the mark. When gouging, the chisel will tend to the center, forming a cone-shaped niche. It will be difficult to get the edges inside the niche. Make the niche a little wider.

Everything that will be inside the contour must be hollowed out using a chisel, replacing the drill in the hammer drill with it. To make gouging easier, drill additional holes in the center of the marked outline of the socket boxes, thereby weakening the concrete. The whole point of this action is to rarefy and weaken the bonds of concrete molecules, if only it consists of molecules. Here, the more holes, the easier and faster the process of choosing a breed will be. Feel like a miner!

If you come across reinforcement, cutting it out with a grinder will not be difficult. When you decide that you have worked hard enough, insert the socket boxes into the niche, check their location according to horizontal level and along the plane of the wall. They should be recessed into the wall with a small margin for the plaster solution to which they will be fixed. A small digression. If you are going to plaster a wall, leveling it flat and vertical, then the plane of the socket boxes should be leveled according to the applied layer of plaster. And if the layer is supposed to be large, then less depth will have to be hollowed out. I prefer to hollow out a niche for the socket boxes before applying the plaster. I don’t want to spoil an already smooth wall with such lethal effects. Pieces of concrete come off unevenly and are torn out along with the plaster. This is unpleasantly damaging to my eyes and nerves.

I do this. First I hollow it out, then I plaster it. After which I “freeze” the socket boxes, leveling them along the plane of the plastered wall. If leveling with a plaster layer is not required, then I level it along the existing plane, as in this example.

Now we need a groove for the wire. Draw horizontal and vertical lines from the recess you created to the place where you intend to connect the new wire. In this case, it is the old outlet that it was decided to get rid of. According to the rules, you should not make the groove diagonally. This makes it easier to remember the location of the wire hidden under a layer of putty or plaster. If you believe Pythagoras, then the diagonal is much shorter, and if you do not intend to subsequently drill the wall in this place, then do as your reason tells you. Just in case, the grooves with wires can be photographed, adding distances from the corner and from the floor level to the photo. You can also tap concrete by drilling holes 10 mm deep. and the same diameter according to the groove marking, that is, apply perforation with a puncher. After that, with the same drill, drill through all the partitions between the holes, making a continuous groove. It’s easier, of course, to use a wall chaser, but it’s unlikely you have one. Having cut under the wire, do not forget to drill holes in the groove with a diameter of 6 mm. under the dowel there is a clamp securing the wire. After which, it is necessary to sweep out all the dust from the niche and grooves and prime them. After the primer has dried, you can begin attaching the wire.

It is convenient to secure the wire in the groove using dowel clamps. At the points where the wire enters the socket box, use a knife to remove the outer insulation that combines the wires into the cable so that the insulated wires enter the socket box separately. So, later, it will be easier to install the sockets themselves, and in the present - to fix the socket boxes. For ease of installation of the sockets themselves, leave the wire with a reserve, then you can cut it. It will be worse if you do not have enough wire. At the entrance to the socket box, make the groove a little deeper so that the wire does not squeeze the socket box out of the fresh solution. Each socket box has places for wires to enter. Make sure in advance that the groove fits exactly this place. Of course, you should break out the holes in the socket boxes for the wire to enter. They are visually easily distinguishable, it is impossible to make a mistake, unless you are crazy. But, in this case, you are unlikely to take up this matter. Crazy people don't install electrical outlets, and it fills our hearts with compassion for them.

You can secure, or, as they say, “freeze” the socket boxes to the place of its further and lifelong stay, using any solution. The easiest way to do this is with gypsum plaster. In most cases, I use the same one I use to plaster walls. “Rotband” - that’s what it’s called. Do not use building gypsum(alabaster). It will set faster than you can set it to the desired position. Prepare the solution. The more gaps you need to fill between the edges of the socket box, the thicker and tougher the solution is needed. It is easier to fix one socket box than several in an assembly. It is easier to align it with the plane of the wall and horizontally. Before final installation, check whether the socket boxes fit easily into the niche and whether the wire does not interfere with their correct position. If necessary, you can use a grinder or metal scissors to slightly enlarge the holes for the wires to enter.

Thoroughly coat the inner walls of the niche with the solution and fill the niche 2/3 full with plaster. After that, press your socket boxes into the solution, squeezing the excess out. As soon as you achieve a clear position, level the solution along the plane of the wall and let it harden. In the meantime, you can fill the groove with the wire with a solution.

If it is difficult for you to install the boxes together with the wire, then install the boxes themselves first, without wires. Let the solution set, and then install the wire. It's easier that way. Do not remove the solution squeezed into the sockets immediately, but when it dries a little. Otherwise, you will smear it more inside.

The ends of the wires in the socket boxes should be immediately insulated. Now we turn off the electricity and remove the old sockets. In one of the articles, I wrote about how to connect wires correctly. The junction of the wires must be carefully insulated and secured in a niche from the old outlet, and then clogged with a solution. Once finished, you can turn on the electricity and check for voltage at the ends of the new wires. Don’t forget to check their position a few minutes after fixing the socket boxes in the wall. They could have been squeezed out by the solution or wires.

I am sure that you will not have any difficulties, and after everything you have read, you will successfully install sockets throughout your apartment. After all, there are never too many sockets. In the kitchen of one of the apartments where I once worked, I thus installed 14 sockets, one for each electrical appliance. Of course, the devices were not used all at once, but it’s great that you don’t have to pull out one plug and plug in another. Plus, no extension cords under your feet or on the walls.

blogremont.ru

How to install a socket box: choosing a location for the socket, cutting, installing a socket box

A socket box is a special tool mounted in various structures; it is used to install sockets and switches. The question is how to install the socket box so that there are no problems in the future. repair work when old switches need to be replaced.

• Types of socket boxes
• Preparatory work
• Installation of a socket box in concrete
• Adjusting the space for the socket box

Types of socket boxes

First, you need to decide what types of socket boxes there are. They are usually divided into two groups:

• For concrete walls - such products are intended for concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and block expanded clay walls. For such socket boxes, you need to prepare a hole for installation in advance, and fix them with a solution.
• On a plasterboard wall - such products are intended for plasterboard walls, chipboard structures, and plywood structures. Such socket boxes are secured using spacer tabs into the mounting holes.

After choosing a socket box, you need to do the preparatory work.

Preparatory work

It consists of assessing the wall on which the socket box will be mounted, as well as selecting the product itself according to size, shape, and material from which it is made. All these parameters are completely different.

There are situations when you need to install a single unit (these are several socket boxes interconnected). At the same time, it is important to remember about the center-to-center distance (i.e., the distance between the centers of the socket boxes) and the same diameter of the products themselves.

Note!

The installation of the solid block itself is carried out according to the same principle as the installation of a conventional socket box.

The next step is the installation of socket boxes.

Hole for socket box

Installation tools and choice of installation method

The socket box is installed using the following tools:

• Pencil with ruler
• Drill and hammer drill,
• Concrete drill,
• Chisel with hammer
• Crowns for drilling concrete (the diameter of the crown must correspond to the diameter of the socket),
• Grinder (plus a blade for concrete),
• Putty knife,
• Construction or medical plaster, alabaster,
• Paper knife,

After preparing the tools, you need to choose a method for installing the socket box, or rather, how to prepare a recess for the socket box. There are three such ways:

1. punch the right place in brick, concrete or gas concrete structure, and then secure it with mortar,
2. arrange a niche in a plasterboard wall or plywood structure and secure the socket box with special paws,
3. Instead of a socket box, use a mounting pad as a base for a switch or socket.

Having chosen the installation method, you can begin marking the wall for the future outlet.

The photo shows the installation of socket boxes

How to mark up correctly?

Before you begin the installation, you need to use a pencil and a ruler to mark the place where the socket box will be located (a cross of two lines with right angles). All measurements are taken from the covered floor, otherwise you need to add about 5 cm more. When making markings, professional electricians adhere to certain standards:

• in rooms, sockets are installed thirty cm from the floor,
• in the kitchen the socket is installed about 120 cm from the countertop,
• switches are installed 90 cm from the floor.

You do not have to follow these rules exactly, and the markings can be applied to suit your requirements. Also, if you don’t have a hammer drill or grinder, you don’t have to immediately run to the store and buy one, because such a purchase will be quite expensive. Tools can be rented.

You can also measure the location for the switch using your own hand. To do this, you just need to go to the wall, lower your hand and make a note in a more comfortable position. If this switch is intended for several people, then the distance can be calculated by medium length hands.

Install the socket box at a convenient level

Installation of a socket box in concrete

Installation of a socket box in a concrete wall is done using a special solution (gypsum or alabaster are suitable for this purpose), but before that you need to drill the place where the socket box will be located. There are several ways to do this.

One of them is to install using a crown (a special tool in the shape of a piece of pipe), the size of which is 70 mm. The socket box is usually 67 mm in diameter, sometimes a little larger. In a circle, the crown is equipped with pobedit teeth (cutting segments made of hard alloy), with the help of which the circle is cut. Using this crown and a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in a concrete structure. This must be done carefully so as not to touch the wire. You need to drill until the crown is completely in the wall.

Note!

To make it easier for the crown to cut through the wall, you can use a drill to make a hole in the center.

After this, the crown is pulled out, and the hole itself is refined in depth using an impact bit or chisel.

The second method is to drill a hole for the socket box using a drill or hammer drill with a Pobedit drill bit. To do this, the socket itself is applied to the wall and outlined. Then, using an impact drill or hammer drill, you need to drill several holes: in the center and in a circle. The holes should go as deep into the concrete as possible and be close to each other. After this, all that remains is to make a hole of the required size.

The third method is the fastest, but also the dustiest. It will require a grinder. First you need to make the appropriate markings: we already have a cross, now we need to draw a socket box on the wall and draw four lines, making a square out of a circle. Then the only thing left to do is walk the grinder along all the marked lines. The main thing here is not to touch the wire. After this, all that remains is to finish the hole according to required size chisel

The photo shows the installation of a socket box in a concrete wall

Adjusting the space for the socket box

After preparing the place, you need to check whether it suits the socket. If the hole is made with a crown, then the width will be fine, you don’t have to worry about it. Here you need to look at the depth. The depth of the hole should be such that the socket box falls down there by about five millimeters. At the same time, it’s worth remembering one little trick: there is an edge on the socket box that is better to cut off. This way, the socket box will fit completely into the hole, which will allow the decorative frame of the switch to fit snugly against the wall without leaving a gap. After the socket box is installed, a groove is made in the structure to insert the wire into the product. On the reverse side the socket box has slots for wires. You need to insert the wire into this slot, and then install the socket box into the hole. Now all that remains is to tell you how to secure the socket box in the wall.

Making a solution and fixing the socket box

To prepare a gypsum solution, you need to take a container, pour gypsum into it and, stirring constantly, add water. As a result, you need to get a homogeneous creamy mass. You need to start working with the solution immediately, otherwise it will harden after five minutes. With this solution the socket box is fixed in the hole. Before installation itself, you need to wet everything in the hole well and wait for the water to be absorbed.

After this, you need to apply the solution into the hole with a spatula, and insert the socket into it, not forgetting about the wire. You need to insert it so that it does not stick out, so that later there will be no lump and unnecessary problems. After this, you need to fill all the side cracks with the solution and putty around it.

Installing a socket box in drywall is even easier. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the drywall the size of a socket box. After this, it is fixed in the wall with spacer legs. Now you need to start puttingty seat(special place for installing a socket box) so that the structure is durable. This installation does not require many tools; all work can be done with a knife, screwdriver and spatula.

Thus, installing socket boxes is not the most difficult, so even an amateur can do it.

How to install a socket box video:

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anatomy-remonta.ru

Installing a socket box in the wall with your own hands | Construction portal

A socket box is a plastic cup into which a socket or switch is mounted. Installing a socket box is a fairly easy process, the technology of which depends on the material from which the walls are made. Learn about methods for installing a socket box with your own hands and get valuable advice from specialists in brief description each of them.

DIY installation of socket boxes in a brick wall

The main rule for high-quality installation of a socket box in a brick wall is a responsible and careful approach to this process. Installation of socket boxes is carried out in several stages:

• before installing the wires - in this case, first the crowns are made, the socket box is installed, and then the cable is connected to them;
• most often, socket boxes are installed after laying wires and determining the location of switches and sockets;
• installing a socket box after completing the rough work - first, the cables are laid out in the room, then leveling plaster is applied, and only after it has dried, the socket boxes are installed.

• the presence of a flat plane that only needs finishing, so the socket box will not be recessed into the wall; when installing the socket box before finishing with plaster, there will be difficulties in finding it;
• is improving appearance socket box, it does not get dirty with the solution.

Work on the installation of electrical outlets should begin with the preparation of materials and tools, such as:

• crown for a socket for brick walls, with a diameter of 65 to 85 mm, for ease of installation of the socket, choose a socket with a slightly larger diameter, because cables and additional parts are also installed inside;
• construction or laser level - allow you to install several socket boxes in a strictly horizontal position;
• use a tape measure or ruler as a measuring tool, you will also need a pencil to mark the installation locations of the socket boxes;
• stock up on socket boxes of previously determined sizes;
• A gypsum compound will help fix the socket boxes; to apply it, prepare a spatula, and to mix the compound, prepare a container and water.

Instructions for installing socket boxes in a brick wall with your own hands:

1. Make a drawing of the preliminary location of socket boxes in the room. According to the data received, make markings on the wall.

2. Prepare a hammer drill with a special nozzle with a diameter of 0.6 cm. Mark the drilling location and begin the process. The crown should be centered on the brick, thus simplifying the work process.

3. Do not press on the hammer drill, work in hammer mode in combination with drilling. Remove from the prepared hole central part, If there are several socket boxes in the same plane, remove the jumpers between them.

4. To remove dust, use regular or construction vacuum cleaner. After this, treat the hole with primer. After completely dry primer continue working.

5. The socket boxes are installed freely inside the hole. After this, fill the hole with the previously prepared gypsum-based compound, spreading it evenly over the wall. Install the socket box, press it into the hole, remove excess mixture with a spatula. Level the device in relation to the level, check the quality of installation after an hour.

Installation of socket boxes in a brick wall, the price is determined by the amount of work, the type of socket box and the complexity of the work.

Technology for installing socket boxes on concrete

There are two types of socket boxes:

• old;
• new generation.

The first ones are made of metal, are distinguished by the presence of steel stops, are not securely fixed to the wall and easily fall out of it. It is recommended to use for installing sockets in wooden buildings. In other cases, install new plastic socket boxes - they are held well in the wall due to the mortar used to fix them.

In the process of installing a wall socket, you will need a hammer drill, which has a special crown, as well as Pobedit drills and teeth. The diameter of a standard plastic socket box is 6.8 cm. Make a hole with a slightly larger diameter so that the socket box can easily fit into it.

Please note that plastic socket boxes are used for installation only in concrete or brick walls. If you need to replace an old outlet with a new one, first turn off the power to the room and remove the old outlet.

A screwdriver is used for these purposes. Remove the cover and disconnect the screws on the wires. Remove the old socket, remove the old base that is held in place by dowels.

This is the case if the old outlet was external. Install the crown into the hammer drill and drill a hole for the socket box. Its depth should not exceed five centimeters. Vacuum away the concrete and debris, and use a hammer and chisel to reshape the hole. Build an entrance for the power wires and connect them to the electrical outlet. Build a plug on the side where the wire is installed.

Fill a spray bottle with hot water and wet the hole. Combine plaster and putty, mix the solution, apply it inside the hole. Level and fix the socket box in relation to the level, additionally fix it with a solution. Wait until it dries completely and only then install the socket. Installing socket boxes in a concrete wall is a fairly easy process, for which it is enough to study all the technological aspects associated with correct drilling holes in the wall.

We install a socket box on drywall - the cost of installing a socket box in a block

Special socket boxes are installed on plasterboard walls. The principle of fixation of this device is based on special paws installed on the side or rear. The front part of the part is distinguished by the presence of four screws, twice as many as in concrete.

Two outer screws secure the appliance and socket or switch. The remaining screws are slightly recessed into the mechanism; they perform the function of fixing the frame. The screws are responsible for the tabs on the socket box; when they rotate, they fix the device in the desired position.

By turning the screw with a screwdriver, the foot begins to move and secure the socket box to the wall. The back of the device is distinguished by the presence of special holes and blanks for wires. Cut one of them and install the cable. Try to make sure that the wire goes into the socket from the back. Thus, the process of installing sockets or switches is greatly simplified. Use a utility knife to cut the hole.

Instructions for installing a socket box on a plasterboard wall:

1. Prepare a tape measure and take measurements at the location of the outlet.

2. As you perform these activities, be guided by the following standards:

• the socket must be at least 300 mm from the floor;
• in the presence of washing machine in the bathroom, install the socket 100 cm from it;
• The distance between the floor and the socket in the kitchen should be at least 120 cm.

3. Create a hole in the drywall. For these purposes there are different ways:

• use a stationery knife, with its help a hole is cut along a pre-drawn diameter;
• drill a hole with a drill and then cut with a knife;
• crown under Spotlights- an ideal option that produces a high-quality hole with smooth edges.

The crown is mounted on a screwdriver or electric drill.

There are situations when a hole in the wall is already ready and a previously removed wire sticks out of it. In this case, first a hole is cut out in the socket box for the wire, and then fixed on the wall.

One pair of screws secures the socket box to the wall, and the second pair adjusts the claws that also hold this device. When the socket retracts a little into the hole, loosen the screws a little and check the quality of fixation. Next comes the process of installing switches and sockets.

Features of installing sockets in socket boxes

Aluminum wire, which comes out of the socket box is connected to the outlet. However, if its length is insufficient, an intermediate terminal block is installed, which performs the function of a conductor. choose black wires that have contact paste. They combine well with aluminum and copper elements.

A single-core rigid copper wire must have a current reserve and high strength. The terminals are placed on the bottom of the socket box. The length of copper wires should not exceed 1.5 cm.

Connect the terminals to the wires and secure the socket. Check the evenness of the socket fixation using a level. To install self-tapping screws, you will need a screwdriver. Be sure to turn off the power to the room before performing work.

Please note that sockets are installed after completion finishing.

Installation of socket boxes before plaster

Installation of any socket box begins with the construction of a hole. To fix the device in the wall, use a solution based on alabaster or gypsum. There are three ways to create holes for the socket box:

1. Using a crown with a diameter of 7 cm. This part is characterized by the presence of teeth that easily pass through the wall. The crown is mounted on a drill or hammer drill. To avoid damaging the outlet, take the wire from it to the side and turn off the power to the room in which you are working. Push the crown completely into the wall. To drill the central hole, use Pobedit-based drills. To adjust the size of the hole and make it more accurate, use a chisel.

2. The second method involves using an impact drill or hammer drill. In this case, the socket box is installed on the wall and its contours are outlined. Using a Pobedit drill, drilling is performed along the contour of the socket box. Using a chisel and hammer, remove internal filling holes.

3. Creating a hole with a grinder - this method relevant if you have neither a drill nor a hammer drill in your house. Using a grinder, a hole is cut in the concrete along the previously outlined contour. Pay special attention to the areas where the wire is located. The depth of the circle should be less than the diameter of the socket box, bring it to the right size chisel

Next stage This just means adjusting the hole for the socket box. The socket box should fit freely into the hole. A gypsum solution will be installed in the inside of the socket box to perform a fixation function.

Prepare a gypsum-based solution; for this you will need:

• gypsum of two types - construction and medical;
• alabaster with water.

Place the plaster in a container, gradually stirring it and add water. Prepare the solution in small portions, as its shelf life does not exceed 7 minutes. Fix the socket box with this solution. Apply the solution into the hole, install the socket box and check its evenness with a level. Please note that the screws must be horizontal to the floor.

After the solution has set, continue working. Place plaster in the side parts that are not filled with mortar. Coat it around the socket. After the solution has dried, remove excess.

To connect two socket boxes together, use a butterfly. This additional element connections. With its help, several socket boxes are fixed. Double and triple socket boxes are installed in the same way as single ones. The main requirement is the evenness and horizontal position of the screws.

Installation of a socket box video:

strport.ru

How to install a socket box in the wall yourself.

Electrical distribution in the apartment is very important stage repair. To install a socket or switch in a specific location on the wall, you must first install a socket box. This is a special box, inside which the housing of a socket or switch is located and conveniently fastened. How to install a socket box in a wall? Let's figure it out now.

Selecting a socket box.

Before installing a socket box in the wall, you still need to buy it. What to look for when purchasing? There are 2 types of socket boxes: with and without legs. Socket boxes with claws are installed in walls made of sheet materials(GKL, GVL, plywood, PVC panels and others). Socket boxes without claws are mounted in solid walls (brick, concrete, foam concrete, plaster, and so on).

Socket boxes with legs are usually round, while those without legs are round or square. As a rule, socket boxes can be joined to each other in order to maintain the same center-to-center distance, otherwise adjacent sockets or switches may not fit into one frame.

Modern socket boxes are made of plastic, but previously they were made of metal. They can be more or less hard (hard is better, but more expensive). That's all the theory, now let's move on to practice.

How to install a socket box in a wall?

Any installation always begins with markings, so before installing the socket box in the wall, you need to correctly mark its location. We measure the required distance from the floor: sockets are usually placed at a height of 30-40cm, switches - 90-100cm, although there are exceptions. Draw a cross with a pencil and start drilling.

How to make a hole for a socket box in drywall?

If you plan to install a socket box on a plasterboard wall, then take a core saw with a diameter of 68 mm and drill a hole. Then we insert the socket box into the wall and secure it. To do this, we tighten the screws, and they, in turn, press the socket box to the sheet of drywall using paws. Sometimes the resulting hole is chamfered to slightly deepen the socket box. If this is not done, the socket may not fit flush against the wall.

How to make a hole for a socket box in a wall made of plaster, brick and concrete?

To drill a hole in a solid brick or plaster wall, you need a special concrete bit. It is inserted into the hammer drill and drilling is performed. In this case, it is advisable to use a combined chiselling and drilling mode. You can drill a hole in a plaster or brick wall using a simple hammer drill.

The technology for drilling a hole for a socket box in a concrete wall is performed in the same way as in plaster or brick. However, for this you will need a more powerful hammer drill.

What to do if there is no crown?

How to install a socket box in a wall without this crown? Very simple! We outline the socket box with a pencil and begin to make holes along the contour using a hammer drill. Then we insert a peak or spatula into the hammer drill and begin connecting the holes. Thus, the recess we need is hollowed out. We take the socket box and try it on: it should be flush with the wall or can be slightly recessed. If it sticks out, you need to hammer it further. When the recess is ready, screw the socket box to the wall using a dowel and a self-tapping screw.

It is not difficult to cut a hole for a socket box in drywall without special devices. To do this, holes are made along the marked circle with a small drill, and then a hole is cut out using a hacksaw file.

How to run a wire into a socket box?

Before installing the socket box into the wall, you need to make a hole in it for the wire. The holes are already marked on the body of the socket box, so you just need to cut out the excess with a knife or carefully break it out. You need to cut from the side from which the wire will enter. Then everything is simple: we wire the wire so that it extends 15-20 cm.

How to cover the socket box in the wall?

The hole that is hollowed out in the wall is always slightly larger than the socket itself. Therefore, after installation, it needs to be caulked around it. In addition, you will also need something to fix the socket box in the recess. Any dry gypsum-based mixture is suitable for this. I prefer to use alabaster for a number of reasons. In many construction stores it is sold in small packages - 1-3 kg. Costs 20 - 40 rubles. Nothing by today's standards. The complete hardening time is approximately ten to twenty minutes, which allows you to quickly use the socket or switch.

How to install socket boxes evenly?

The technique of fixing the socket box in the recess using alabaster is very simple. Having prepared a mixture of water and alabaster, we apply it inside the recess, and then we need to press the socket box there. Next, using a level, rule or metal corner, we align the plane of the socket with the plane of the wall.

How to install several socket boxes in a row?

So we figured out how to install a socket box in the wall. But what to do if there are several socket boxes? Will the sockets and switches then fit into one frame? For this purpose, the socket boxes are connected to each other.

It's simple. If the socket boxes are mounted in a gypsum board wall, you need to mark them so that the center-to-center distance is 70 mm. That is, we mark a line horizontally on the wall, then put dashes on it every 70 mm. Thus, crosses are obtained in the right places, along which the crown is drilled.

If the socket boxes are placed on concrete or brick, then we connect required quantity socket boxes together, outline and drill out the necessary recesses.

When installing several socket boxes, be sure to check their horizontal position using any building level. If the socket boxes are crooked, it is better to redo them, otherwise the sockets and switches will also be located unevenly. But this will not suit us!

When is it correct to install socket boxes before or after plastering?

So we learned how to install a socket box in the wall. But many are interested in what is more correct: to install the socket box before or after plastering the wall? It can be done either way.

However, if you install the socket boxes before plastering, then you will have to use longer screws to secure the body of the socket or switch. In my opinion, installing socket boxes after plastering the walls will be much more reliable and smoother.

And in conclusion, I would like to suggest watching a video on how to install a socket box in a wall.

Dear readers, I hope that this article on the site answered the question - how to install a socket box in the wall and, if necessary, you will master this task yourself.

The correct technology for installing socket boxes is in most cases the same, with the exception of some nuances inherent in their installation in walls made of different materials. If you do not take into account the need for experience when carrying out electrical work in general, installing electrical outlets with your own hands can be done by anyone with minimal skills in using a drill.

Required tools and materials

When large-scale electrical wiring work is carried out, everything necessary tools Most likely they will already be at hand, but if the only thing on the agenda is installation of socket boxes, then you will need the following:

• Pencil and level - for marking the wall and leveling the socket block (if one needs to be installed).
• Drill with bits for drilling socket boxes. If there are no crowns, then just a drill for concrete (or wood, in that rare case when installing hidden wiring V wooden wall). A hammer drill or its mode on a drill can also be useful.
• A spray bottle (you can make it homemade) for watering the crown while drilling. Prevents the appearance of dust and prevents cracking of tiles if the socket box is mounted on a kitchen apron.
• Alabaster, plaster or cement mortar– to secure the socket box in the wall.
• A trowel or spatula with which the alabaster will be applied. Its size should allow the mixture to be placed inside the hole for the socket box.
• Socket boxes desired design– selected depending on the wall material.
• Dowels are needed in rare cases, if the wall material is soft and the socket boxes are installed without additional fastenings problematic.

A detailed overview of the tools required for installation of socket boxes in this video:

The rest does not apply to the work itself, but a broom, cleaning rags and, possibly, a vacuum cleaner will also come in handy.

Types of socket boxes

Before you make the necessary purchases to begin installation, it would be useful to understand what types of socket boxes there are and how to choose them correctly.

There are three main types of them - for installation in concrete or brick, plasterboard or wood. Each of them meets certain safety rules and ensures proper ease of installation.

Installation in a concrete wall

Most often it is necessary to install socket boxes in concrete or a brick wall, so the method of such installation has been worked out to the smallest detail and that’s all. possible ways have been tried for a long time:

Now all that remains is to wait until the solution has completely hardened and the installation of a standard socket box in a concrete wall is complete.

If for some reason it seems that the socket box will not stay inside the wall, then it can additionally be secured with dowels, under which 4 holes are drilled with a slope of 45° (at odds) to the plane of the floor and wall.

Brick wall, socket boxes, plaster and tiles

The sequence of actions when installing socket boxes in a regular brick wall is somewhat different from working on pure concrete. All the techniques, tools and materials used here are the same, but there are some nuances that need to be considered in advance.

The socket box must be installed flush to the outside of the wall. If wallpaper is glued to concrete, then a layer of plaster will be laid on the brick wall. Of course, you can estimate in advance what the thickness of the plaster will be and move the socket box a little forward, but this will be an order of magnitude more hassle than with a simple installation. When planning sockets in the bathroom or kitchen, where additional tiles will be laid, the calculations become even more complicated.

A long and complex way to solve the problem lies in careful measurements after each stage of work - a place is marked, wiring is connected to it, plaster is applied, a hole is cut in it, then the same is done with the tiles during its installation.

It will be much easier to make an initial recess in the wall where you can hide the wire (it is advisable to twist it tightly and secure it in the center). Then close the hole with a lid - you can even cut it out of thick cardboard, remember the “coordinates” of the future outlet and now you can putty. If you are laying tiles and you need to maintain symmetry, then it would be useful to figure out in advance what kind of pattern it will be laid in this place.

This video shows how to install socket boxes on gypsum plaster:

When the plaster or tile adhesive has hardened, the installation of the socket box itself begins - one or for a block of sockets. A hole is drilled according to the required coordinates, carefully so as not to catch the wire (if it is a tile, then at the time of drilling you need to continuously water the crown or drill). Next is executed standard installation selected socket boxes - putty is applied, the box itself is recessed into it, the excess solution is cleaned off and after it hardens, everything is ready for installation of the socket.

Installation in a plasterboard wall

This is a modern material, which is used to work with appropriate tools and components. Here you won’t need a hammer drill and mortar - the whole process goes much faster, but for installation in drywall you need a special socket - with additional paws that will press it to the plasterboard sheet.

Although a hammer drill is not useful here, you definitely need a drill - with a crown for drilling socket boxes or with a regular drill. The drilling location is marked and a hole is cut, and its diameter should match the dimensions of the socket box. The wire is brought out and threaded into the socket box.

If there are fears that the drywall is weak and in the future the socket may simply break out of it, then plywood or other dense, non-crumbling material is glued from the inside to the place where the socket's legs will rest.

For more information about installing socket boxes in drywall, watch this video:

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

This is very expensive pleasure. Although a hammer drill is not needed here, the labor costs are many times greater, because according to the requirements of the PUE, the entire installed wire should not come into contact with the tree anywhere and under no circumstances.

Wiring in steel corrugation, metal socket boxes

Conventional types of socket boxes are not suitable here - PVC burns well and in the event of a short circuit, the likelihood of a fire when using them is very high. There is no question here which socket boxes will be better or worse - you can only install iron ones, the thickness of the walls of which can keep the arc that occurs inside the case from a short circuit.

For the same reason, the wires in such wiring must be laid in an iron pipe and all its joints with the socket box must be carefully sealed. The entire line must be grounded, so a mounting bolt for the grounding wire is additionally welded to the ends of the pipes that meet in the socket box.

Based on this, there is only one way to install a socket box without turning it into a time bomb - to fulfill all the requirements of the PUE:

• For the socket box, the required hole is drilled with a drill and chisel
• If you want to provide additional protection, the bottom of the hole is lined with asbestos.
• A wire and part of the pipe supplying it are inserted into the socket box, which is connected to the housing, which in turn is screwed to the wall with screws.

This seemingly simple sequence of actions must be performed with all possible care, because it depends on Fire safety Houses.

This video shows the installation of socket boxes in a log wall:

Nuances of choice

In general, when choosing a socket box, it is necessary that the person selecting them knows where they will be used - if you purchased your own socket box for the required material, then the question of how to secure this device should not arise.

Another thing is their basic check; it is especially good to check those that will be fixed in drywall, since there are moving parts there. Even those that will be planted on the solution must be intact and without cracks. Separately, it is worth checking the bolts that will screw the base of the socket to the body, and also trying it on so that the socket is properly fixed inside. In general, the ideal option is to purchase sockets and socket boxes as a set.