Wooden cladding of walls and ceilings in a bathhouse is a traditional finishing option that allows you to accumulate heat in the premises and create an optimal microclimate for bathing procedures and relaxation.

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is possible for anyone who has minimal skills in working with tools for wood construction. But at the same time, it is important to strictly follow the work technology at all stages so that the casing does not deform over time and does not lose its functional properties.

Material selection

You can decorate the bathhouse premises with ordinary lining or eurolining, and it is recommended to use eurolining at least for covering the walls and ceiling in the steam room. The advantages of eurolining include:

• larger size lock connection(the lock is more reliable and easier to install);
• the presence of vertical slots on the back side (they compensate for internal stresses, preventing cracking of the planks, provide ventilation and condensate removal, protecting the wood from rotting);
• protective treatment (the wood is pre-treated with products suitable for use in steam rooms).

The lining of the bathhouse inside is carried out using only the highest (elite) or first grade lining - such wood has no defects. If, in order to save money, planks with knots are used, they are placed in areas where contact with human skin is excluded (ceiling, lower part of the wall under the shelves).

The choice of wood type depends on personal preference and financial opportunities, but it is important to select material from options suitable for use in a bathhouse. These include: traditional linden, aspen, alder, oak, cedar, larch (mainly for the washing department), ash, as well as exotic wood species - abashi, hemlock, etc.

Preparatory stage

The walls in the bathhouse need quality internal insulation. First of all, a roller is attached to the wall. waterproofing material- it is mounted by pressing the sheathing slats.

Between the elements of the sheathing, mats made of non-flammable fiber insulation are laid - they are fastened by surprise, for which the size of the mat should be 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the battens of the sheathing.

A layer of foil vapor barrier is laid on top of the wool. The canvases are attached with an overlap of 10-12 cm, the joints are glued aluminum tape. To attach the heat-reflecting vapor barrier film, use a construction stapler.

If mineral wool with a foil coating is used as insulation, installation of a vapor barrier membrane is not required. The mats are attached with the foil side facing the clapboard sheathing.

Narrow 20 mm thick slats are placed along the sheathing - a counter-lattice, thanks to which an air gap will remain between the insulation layer and the sheathing for ventilation.

At the stage of preparation for finishing the bathhouse with clapboard, it is necessary to take care of ventilation - provide appropriate openings near the stove, one at the level of 150-300 mm from the floor covering, the second - under the ceiling. The air ducts are mounted from corrugated aluminum pipes; valves are installed on the openings to regulate the air flow.

The principle of fastening the casing

The premises are finished from the inside with clapboards in two ways: the planks are placed vertically or horizontally. Each fastening method has its own characteristics:

• Vertical installation. It is fast and easy to install, condensate easily rolls down the slots on the back side of the planks (but also easily rises through the capillaries of the wood), the tongue-and-groove lock is protected from moisture penetration. Due to the vertical arrangement of the slats, it is easier for heated air to circulate inside the steam room.
• Horizontal laying. When fastened with the tenon facing up, the lock is also protected from moisture; air circulation between the sheathing and insulation is better due to the fact that the sheathing slats are located vertically. With a horizontal lining, if necessary, you can replace water-damaged planks located near the floor without touching the rest of the lining.

Vertical fastening of the lining is suitable for saunas with dry steam, horizontal – more functional for a Russian bath with high humidity. But in general, the choice is determined by personal preferences.

Installation of sheathing

When sheathing the inside of the bathhouse, the first step is to install the sheathing under the lining. For the sheathing frame, a wooden beam treated with fire-bioprotective impregnation is used. Please note: the timber should not be pine or spruce (this wood emits pungent resin odors when heated), the composition for protective treatment a specialized one is selected that does not highlight harmful substances at high temperatures.

If the lining will be mounted vertically, the sheathing slats are mounted horizontally; for horizontally directed cladding, a vertical frame is required. The step of fastening the elements is 40-60 cm.

Before the stage of installation of the casing, it is necessary to lay the wiring to the places where the lamps are installed, to the socket for electrical sauna stove etc. The wires are mounted in moisture-proof, non-flammable corrugated casings.

Installation of lining

The interior lining of the bathhouse is carried out using hidden fasteners, because:

• It is easy to get burned on the open caps of metal fasteners;
• low-quality hardware rusts when exposed to moisture and stains spoil the appearance of the wood;
• open fastening (for safety, the caps are recessed into the wood) worsens the appearance of the room.

Clips and small nails are used as hidden fasteners. If you decide to use self-tapping screws, it is recommended to close the holes into which the heads are recessed with wooden plugs, which complicates installation.

Headlining

When considering how to properly sheathe a bath room, you should pay attention to the order of work. The ceiling is finished first, since the wall planks must rest against the horizontal cladding.

The planks are installed starting from the wall with the entrance door. There should be a gap of 40-50 mm between the ends of the finishing elements and the walls, which is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood (the ceiling heats up the most, as hot air rises to it) and for high-quality ventilation between the sheathing and the walls.

The planks are fastened using clamps. The last board is secured using finishing nails without a head, which are driven in using a hammer so as not to damage the wooden plank.

Wall cladding

Installation of the lining begins from one of the corners of the room. The fastening of the boards is standard: the edge of the first board is fixed with hidden nails, the clamps press the edge of the groove to the sheathing, and the ridge of the next element is inserted into the groove.

The upper ends are adjusted to the ceiling point-blank. It is necessary to leave a gap of 20-30 mm between the floor and the wall cladding in the steam room to prevent rotting of the lower part of the cladding. At vertical installation When lining the moisture rises through the capillaries by 40-50 cm, with horizontal - by 20-25 cm.

Finishing the inside with clapboard washing department, the gap between the floor and the casing is increased to 40-50 mm.

The sheathing in the steam room should not rest against adjacent walls - a gap is required to compensate for the expansion of wood under the influence of temperature and high humidity. Also, the lamellas themselves should not be joined together as tightly as possible, point-blank.

To create the required gap between the slats, the following method is used:

1. The ridge of the plank is driven into the groove of the previous one until it stops.
2. Marks are made along the seam line with a sharp object.
3. The bar moves a few millimeters relative to the marks.
4. The verticality of the lamella is checked, after which it can be fixed with clamps.

If you connect the seams of the ceiling and wall cladding, finishing the bathhouse inside with clapboard will look impressive.

Installation of additional elements

The outer and inner corners and baseboards are fastened using finishing nails without heads, which are recessed into the wood. The installation sites of fasteners are sanded with sandpaper so that there are no rough spots left.

The slopes of the doorway can also be sheathed with clapboard, cutting it to size. To frame the openings, platbands made of the same wood as the door are used.

If wooden windows are installed in the bathhouse, you can use clapboard to decorate the slopes; the gaps between the junction of the wall sheathing and the window opening in this case are closed with decorative strips or clapboard strips.

Finishing near the stove in the steam room

Lining is a flammable material and should not be adjacent to a sauna stove. The corner of the stove or part of the wall around the built-in stove is lined with stone or brick, or a sheet metal screen is installed, under which a non-flammable sheet heat insulator is laid.

Contact should also not be allowed wood paneling With chimney– in the place where the chimney passes through the wall or ceiling, a “coupling” made of non-flammable fiber heat insulator is mounted and a metal apron is attached.

Final work

Finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard includes the stage of processing the material with special compounds that prevent wood from rotting and changing color under the influence of external factors.

The steam room and washing room, decorated with wood, and the dressing room are treated with compounds for water based or wax based. The environmental friendliness of protective equipment is important.

Lamps are mounted on the ceiling or walls and covered with decorative wooden grilles. The ventilation holes are equipped with valves - they are also easy to install with your own hands.

Features of shrink finishing

How to line the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands if the log house was built recently? It takes at least 3 years for a wooden bathhouse to completely shrink, but you want to start using it as soon as possible. To solve the problem, use special technology mounting sliding internal lining.

When arranging the sheathing frame, sliding guides are used - metal elements in the form of corners with a slot allow the sheathing to move as the frame shrinks. This eliminates the risk of deformation of the inner lining.

A gap of 20-30 mm is left between the ceiling and the wall cladding for shrinkage. The gap is covered with a plinth fixed to the ceiling.

To cover a bathhouse with clapboard without unnecessary financial expenses, it is recommended:

• apply material different varieties and species - for the dressing room, the requirements for the type of lining are much lower, the use of cheaper coniferous wood, including 2 grades, is allowed;
• buy lining of different lengths - short slats are cheaper, and where long slats are not required, you can use them;
• for finishing the washing area, use alternative inexpensive options finishing, including PVC panels.

A competent choice of finishing material and adherence to the technology for installing internal cladding make it possible to finish the bathhouse yourself, saving on the involvement of specialists - the services of professionals require an increase in the construction budget.

The use of a bathhouse has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the sauna are less likely to suffer from colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases nervous system. Considered traditional wooden sauna: the walls of the steam room “breathe” in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

Today there are many different options for interior decoration of a bathhouse - this and gas silicate blocks, and brick, and so far only gaining popularity, magnetite. However, finishing made from natural materials, namely wood, continues to be considered the most suitable. Thanks to wooden lining, it becomes possible to create the specific microclimate necessary for a bathhouse or sauna and cozy atmosphere. When planning to cover a bathhouse with clapboard yourself, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such finishing indoors.

Selection of lining and calculation of area

For quality work, it is necessary to select the right material and calculate its quantity.

It is necessary to sheathe the inner surface of a room such as a bathhouse only with materials that can withstand:

• large temperature changes;
• high humidity;
• constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and material grade

Today's market building materials filled with a variety of lining from many manufacturers. The lamellas are produced as Russian production, and foreign. Eurolining is produced with various options profile sections. Also, wooden lining can vary in the surface quality of the back and front sides of the board, the shape of the lock and its dimensions, the type of material and other equally significant parameters.

Most often, lining of several popular profiles is used.

• Eurolining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when covering.
• Softline with more rounded corners.
• Calm. The seam with this finish is almost invisible, because it does not have recessed shelves. It can imitate timber and have both quite sharp and smoother rounded edges.

• A lawnhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The design on the lamella of the lawnhouse is applied using figured milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper ones.
• Blockhouse (siding).
• Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the tenon of such a board are located exactly in the middle, so both sides turn out equally smooth - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to “breathe”), so it is not very suitable for interior decoration of wet rooms such as a bathhouse, swimming pool or sauna.

To determine the type of purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty is that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, so first of all it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the markings. All lining is produced using the same equipment and using the same technology, so the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

• Premium (or extra). Almost perfect quality of the lining. Neither branches nor cracks are allowed on the slats. A light blue tint, small chips, roughness and imperfections are possible only on the inside.
• Class A. The branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and should not occur more often than once in an area one meter long. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, not through. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them himself. All other defects are allowed only on the inside.
• Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. The presence of through cracks and open pockets is also allowed.
• Class C- this is all the remaining lining, on which blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. There may even be gaps on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class cannot be used for finishing walls.

Wood

A bathhouse is not only a steam room, but also a wash room, a dressing room or even a swimming pool. For each room it would be more appropriate to choose wood of a certain species.

Wood is divided into two categories:

• coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
• deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular material options for eurolining is linden board. Linden is quite durable, does not change the fiber structure for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bathhouse is full of freshness and cleanliness.

Aspen lining is easy to work with; time only makes this material stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy to return it to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used for finishing the hottest and wet room in saunas - steam room.

It is also possible to use cedar for its finishing, however, due to the fact that cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may occur when touching the sun loungers and walls made of this material. Coniferous trees are used mainly to cover the washing room or dressing room. Pine and spruce release resin abundantly and, like cedar, have a high heating rate, but using this material will save money and choose from an extensive decorative range of linings. It should be noted that coniferous wood must first be deresined in order to avoid a large number of stains on the walls.

Mounting options

There are two options for placing elements when tiling a sauna. You can upholster a wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of timber connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each method has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

• reducing the chance of water getting into and stagnating in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with the tenon facing up, which allows the water that has already got inside to drain down;
• the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
• even the wood itself High Quality is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of fastening the lamellas will allow you to replace only the material that is located below and is more susceptible to destruction, without dismantling the entire wall;
• When laying the lining horizontally, drying out of the wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

Vertical finishing of a sauna with eurolining is faster and easier than horizontal finishing. This method also has its advantages:

• rapid flow of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
• when using the tongue-and-groove system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant humidity is reduced;
• This finish better maintains the high temperature of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin the sheathing itself, you need to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside using cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered on top with a layer of insulating material with foil to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the sheathing. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can the frame on which the eurolining itself is attached be nailed to the walls. First of all, they install the sheathing and cover the ceiling with clapboard, and only then they begin to work on the walls.

Lathing

After all the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to creating a wooden frame - sheathing. First you need to carefully prepare the timber itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the beam in advance, since the vertical and horizontal diagram locations can be combined on one wall. The profile can be fastened with ordinary nails if the bathhouse frame is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the beam needs to be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can lay down an additional piece of board or use a hanger for the frame made of plasterboard slabs.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for safety reasons, good ventilation is required.

The technology for its installation is as follows.

• Already during the installation of the sheathing, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second - no higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the stove.
• For the air duct, it is better to use aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. Holes for installing corrugations should be placed in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the flow of fresh air.

• The use of polystyrene foam as a thermal insulation material when installing ventilation is strictly not recommended. It is better to use non-flammable materials, for example, basalt (mineral) wool.

Insulation

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of walls. Due to constantly high humidity, the bathhouse needs special fastening and multilayer insulation.

First, you need to lay waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface with wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the sheathing with an overlap of 10 mm.

It is necessary to lay a foil film on top of the mineral wool, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the outgoing heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping beams of the sheathing.

You can also use more in a simple way and insulate the walls of the sauna using already foiled basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Installation

Fastening eurolining in baths and saunas is done only using a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware that attaches the slats to the frame gets so hot that it can cause pain when you touch its head. Secondly, the fastening metal can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.

The lining of the steam room in the bath should always be done on the ceiling first. It starts from the front door. The lining is attached either with nails or with the help of a clamp, since a small finishing nail will not be able to withstand the weight of the lamella hanging on the ceiling in this position. A clamp is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to nail into a groove or place on clamps, so you can use a hidden nail without a head. When driving such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so you need to use a hammer. It is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm at the joints with the walls so that air circulates freely and the lamellas, slightly swollen from humidity, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor to avoid rotting of the boards at the junction with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining closely when finishing a room such as a bathhouse. It is better to leave a small margin so that when swelling occurs, the entire wall cladding does not deform and “wave” due to constant contact with water.

The gap is made as follows:

• Initially, the lamella is driven all the way into the groove of another lamella already installed, small marks are made along the seam line of the connection of the two boards with a sharp object;
• the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
• the algorithm is repeated with each subsequent lamella;
• The joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indentations both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

Using slats you can also sheathe doorways, cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

Window slope installed using starting bar attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached at one end to wooden beam, and the rest - to plastic. So simple option will do For metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay wooden lining on it. This method is good for wooden windows, having decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not very wide, you can simply cover it with a wooden strip.

The finishing of the washing room is carried out similarly to the finishing of the steam room, however, it is necessary to fix the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are laid near the floor with a horizontal installation method) at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. You can also use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a unified design. Tile and ceramics are also perfect as alternative option finishing.

Installing a dressing room is no different from installing a wash room, but lining cannot be installed near the firebox. It is better to line the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-flammable coating are often used. The chimney pipe must not be connected to anything other than a metal screen fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen mineral wool.

It's hard to imagine a complete vacation in your own country house without visiting the bathhouse. Therefore, every owner of such a house tries to build it on his site. But in order for your stay in the bathhouse to bring as much joy and benefit as possible, it is necessary to competently carry out its interior decoration. Most suitable material For these purposes, lining made from various types of wood is used. The interior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard allows you to create a favorable atmosphere of comfort and natural warmth for complete healthy relaxation of body and spirit. You can do the finishing work yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, the main thing is to know what and how to do, and also to understand a little about the properties of wood.

What kind of clapboard to cover a bathhouse

Decorating a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands begins with choosing wood. And before you cover the walls and ceiling in the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to decide on its type. After all, not only the appearance of the walls, but also the health-improving effects when visiting the bathhouse depend on what kind of wood the lining is made of. In addition, the class of the lining and its profile are important.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: video

Today, deciduous and coniferous wood is used to produce lining. Depending on the room, the interior of the bathhouse is decorated with clapboards using different types of wood. For rooms with high temperatures, such as a steam room, the most suitable would be hardwoods. At the same time, recreation rooms can be finished with clapboard coniferous species.

From hardwood use:

Oak. This type of wood is famous for its strength and flexibility. In addition, due to the presence of specific substances in the structure of wood, a bathhouse lined with oak clapboard will be protected from mold and rot. As a result, the air in the bathhouse will always be clean and fresh. At high temperatures, phytoncides are released from oak lining in large quantities, eliminating various pathogenic bacteria and unpleasant odors. The color of oak lining ranges from matte light to dark brown, and the surface itself is slightly rough to the touch and cannot be sanded to a perfectly smooth state. When processing oak, you must use a hard and sharp tool, otherwise you can damage the board.

Linden is one of the most suitable wood species for interior decoration of a bathhouse. It has a pleasant smell, healing properties, low wood density and a uniform structure. In a bathhouse decorated with linden clapboard, you can safely touch the walls even at very high temperatures without the risk of getting burned. Linden lining, even under conditions of extreme temperature operation and high humidity, retains its natural color. Processing linden lining is not particularly difficult, since the wood is soft and pliable.

Aspen. Thanks to your operational characteristics and natural qualities, aspen is an excellent choice as a lining for a bathhouse. It has a pleasant color and is easy and simple to process. It has low thermal conductivity, which at high temperatures will protect you from burns when touching the surface. Aspen has excellent resistance to moisture, practically does not dry out or crack. Perhaps the only significant drawback is that the wood darkens very quickly, losing its natural color.

Alder. Just like oak, this wood is saturated with tannins, which provides fresh air and protection against fungi and mold. When heated, alder releases substances that have a hemostatic and anti-inflammatory effect. Unlike oak, alder wood is easy to process.

Ash. This wood is somewhat inferior in density and strength to oak, but surpasses it in healing properties and cut beauty. The color of ash lining is lighter and softer than that of oak. Ash is easy to process, has excellent flexibility, and does not crack.

From coniferous species use:

Cedar- one of the most valuable and beautiful wood species. As a lining for a bathhouse, cedar, like almost all coniferous woods, is best used for rooms such as a rest room or washing room. Cedar itself has a pleasant smell, antiseptic qualities, beautiful color, easy and simple to process. The essential oils and resins released by cedar wood promote relaxation and rest.

Larch. This coniferous wood is famous for its strength, which is comparable to the strength of oak. Larch lining has low thermal conductivity, has a beautiful and pleasant shade, is resistant to high humidity conditions, and even at low temperatures emits a pleasant, unobtrusive and soothing aroma. Unfortunately, like oak, larch is quite difficult to process and requires certain skills in this matter.

Pine- the most common type of wood for lining. It is beautiful and easy to process, has nice smell, but, unfortunately, pine can only be used in a bathhouse in rooms with a temperature no higher than room temperature. The reason for this is the resin secreted by pine, which is very sticky and can cause burns at very high temperatures. But in the washing room and rest room, pine will come in handy.

Spruce. Like pine, spruce has a beautiful color and a pleasant smell. Due to the presence of a large amount of resins, it is best to use spruce lining in rooms where the temperature is not very high. The wood is soft and easy to work with.

It should be noted that when finishing a bathhouse with clapboards, you can combine different types of wood. This way you can get a unique healing effect and create a unique interior. When finishing a bathhouse with clapboard, the price depends on the price of a particular type of wood. Thus, the most expensive variety is cedar, and the cheapest is pine.

Classification of lining

Having decided on the type of wood for finishing the bath, you can start purchasing it. And here you need to be especially careful. Firstly, because if you take the cheapest lining you can ruin the entire interior. Secondly, during its installation difficulties may arise due to the presence of knots and chips. To avoid such troubles, it is important to know the classification of lining and the types of its profile.

By class, the lining is divided into “Premium” (“Extra” or “0”), “A”, “B” and “C”.

Class lining "Premium" the most expensive. It does not contain a core, there are no knots or other wood defects. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "A" has no core, but may have 1 knot every 1.5 m, as well as a couple of cracks and resin pockets. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "IN" may contain up to 4 knots for every 1.5 m, a couple of through slots and resin pockets. Such lining will most likely have one or more spots of contrasting color, as well as various mechanical damage.

Class lining "WITH" the lowest quality. Contains many knots, chips, cracks and stains. This type of lining is the cheapest, and its use for lining a bathhouse will be inappropriate.

The lining is also divided into several types of profiles: "Euro", "Soft-line", "Calm", "Tongue and groove and chamfer along the length", "Tongue and groove along the length". In fact, lining marked “euro” differs from the usual one only in size and workmanship, and this directly affects its price. An important difference is the ergonomics of the eurolining. Its length, width and processing are specially selected in such a way as to reduce material consumption to a minimum. There are two more differences: the presence of a special groove for water drainage and an increased depth of the tongue-and-groove connection.

Installation options for lining

The instructions for finishing a bathhouse with clapboard are basically the same for all its types, since the planks are attached to a wooden frame. As for the fastening methods and placement options for the planks themselves, there are several of them.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: photo

There are three main options for placing planks: horizontal, vertical, diagonal and combined. At horizontal In the option of placing the planks, the frame bars are attached to the wall in vertical rows and, as a result, will be perpendicular to the lining strips. At vertical When placing the lining, the frame bars are attached horizontally. For diagonal The layout of the frame also needs to be done diagonally, but so that the bars are perpendicular to the lining strips. The main three options for lining layout can be combined with each other, thereby making the interior more intricate and beautiful.

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard is done correctly only when it is placed vertically and diagonally. This is due to the increased level of humidity. With this layout option, water will not get caught between the slats, but will drain. Of course, for rooms where the humidity level is low, this condition is not so important. Therefore, they can be finished using any of the above methods.

Having decided how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, you need to choose the most convenient method of attaching the planks to the frame. There are only four of them: using a clamp, oblique nailing, direct nailing and through fastening with a plug.

Or clips are the simplest and most convenient, especially if paneling is being done for the first time. This method of fastening allows for quick and high-quality installation. Another undeniable advantage is the ability to dismantle the lining plank carefully and without damaging it. The clamps themselves are attached to the sheathing bars using nails or self-tapping screws.

Applying oblique driving of nails into the countersunk, namely, driving a nail into the groove of the plank and recessing it with a hammer, there is a risk of increasing the number of defective lining strips. This fastening method is quite complex and requires certain skills and experience. In addition, to fasten the lining in this way, you will need at least 6 nails per strip. And with large volumes of work, the risk of rejection only increases.

For driving a nail directly into a tenon strips must be purchased accordingly wood profile. Unfortunately, not any type of lining is suitable for this method. But if you managed to acquire Soft-line lining or regular Euro lining, then fastening is done as follows. A nail is driven into the tenon, which fits tightly to the sheathing, at a right angle and then recessed with a hammer. There is a risk of defects, but it is small compared to corner fastening.

Mainly used for seats and shelves. It is good because the self-tapping screw is directly screwed into the block. This leads to the appearance of holes on the surface of the lining, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. For this reason, this method is not recommended for covering walls and ceilings with clapboard.

Covering the baths with clapboard

Carrying out work on finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is not particularly difficult. The whole process is divided into several stages and takes very little time. At the first stage, preparatory work. On the second, a wooden frame is installed. At the third stage, insulating materials are laid and lining strips are installed. The fourth stage is the final one, in which the surface of the lining is covered with a protective layer.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparation works. First of all, this concerns the surface of the walls and ceiling. If there are too large differences in them, more than 2 mm per 1 m, then they will have to be leveled with plaster or putty. To protect the bathhouse premises from the appearance of fungi and mold, the surface of the walls and ceiling is treated with special means. In the second place, all communications, electrical, water supply, everything that can and should be hidden behind the lining panels are laid. After which materials are purchased, namely lining, fasteners for it, wooden block, metal suspensions, heat and vapor barrier materials. The lining itself is brought inside the bathhouse for two days and rests there, getting used to the microclimate of the room.

Installation of sheathing

For the sheathing we use a wooden block. Its cross-section is selected individually, based on the thickness of the insulation. In our case, this is a wooden block 20x50 mm. We cut bars into lengths of 1000 mm and 500 mm; if necessary, you can choose a different size ratio. This is done in order to secure the bars on the wall staggered, thereby making the entire structure more reliable. Now we mark places on the walls for installing metal hangers. The hangers will be arranged in rows, the step between the hangers will be 30 - 40 cm. The distance between each row will be 40 - 50 cm.

Important! All metal parts- hangers, screws, nails, etc., it is better to take them from galvanized iron. If you use regular ones, streaks of rust will appear on the wood over time. Frame bars, like some types of wood for lining, must be treated with a mold and mildew repellent.

Covering bathhouses with clapboard: photo instructions

Next, we drill holes, drive in dowels and attach the hangers. We attach the bars for the sheathing to the hangers. The lathing option depends on how the lining will be secured; the bars of one row themselves are attached at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to allow air to circulate between the rows. Around the windows and doorways The frame bars are attached vertically along the perimeter of the slopes at a distance of 30 mm from the edge.

Important! We start the first row of the sheathing with a long bar, the second - with a short one. The entire frame must be in the same plane, so each installed row is checked with a vertical level. At very large differences You can put a gasket under the bars.

Laying insulation

Before clapboarding the bathhouse completely, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation and vapor barrier. To do this, we lay between the rows of the frame thermal insulation material. Many people use mineral wool for these purposes, but this material does not tolerate high humidity conditions. You can find others on the market, for example, foam glass. This thermal insulation material is not afraid of moisture and has excellent insulation and sound insulation properties, and, most importantly, absolutely does not emit harmful substances when heated. There is no need to lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the foam glass. But if you want to play it safe, you can. We overlap the vapor barrier sheets and glue them together with tape.

Installation of lining

Now you can start covering the walls and ceiling with clapboard. First of all, cut the strips to the required length. Then we carefully cut off the tenon from the plank that is installed first, and then install it in place. We start finishing from the corner. The first plank is installed with a cut into the corner and secured. For ease of installation we use clamps. The clamp itself is driven into the groove of the plank with a little effort and then fixed to the sheathing. We install clamps on each lathing strip. The next plank of the lining is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and lightly hammered through a wooden block so that it fits tightly into place, after which it is fixed with clamps. Further plating follows a similar algorithm.

The final stage of finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is applying a protective layer to the clapboard strips. These can be various oil compositions and waxes. You need to take care of the lining very carefully. Do not use abrasives or solvents. And if the board is severely damaged, it is better to replace it. Also, over time, the lining must be updated with a protective coating.

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: video instructions

The quality of the healing procedures of the bath largely depends on the level of thermal insulation of the steam room. By insulating the steam room, they achieve a reduction in heat loss and preserve the wooden structures of the bathhouse. An important element The thermal insulation system is covered with paired lining. To decorate the inside of the steam room, you must use only natural materials. The use of lining not only effectively prevents heat loss, but is also much cheaper than cladding with natural wood.

Advantages of using lining in a bathhouse

Cladding in a steam room involves the use of wood, and the small thickness of the panels reduces the cost of constructing a steam room.

The advantages of using lining are:

1. Adjusting the humidity in the bath, preventing the possibility of condensation and fungal infection;
2. Easy to process, perfect results flat surface;
3. Good heat and sound insulation;
4. Ecologically pure material and beautiful appearance;
5. Long service life while maintaining original characteristics.

Types of wood for finishing

The best wood species for baths are:

1. Linden, which retains heat well, releasing twice as much essential oils as other trees. Possessing hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for the human body;
2. Aspen ordinary - in its own way medicinal properties no different from linden;
3. Cedar has a pleasant smell when heated, is durable, has healing properties;
4. Pine– durable, easily tolerates dampness and much cheaper than other wood species. The disadvantage is that the resin releases when heated and the color changes over time.

Much less common is oak or ash lining. Despite very high quality indicators, their price is so high that it is not affordable for most consumers. You can reduce the cost of lining a steam room in a bathhouse by using lining made of different breeds wood, based on location.

For example, in places where the body comes into contact with wood, use lining made of hardwood from deciduous species (larch, aspen, linden, ash, oak). In other places, softwood will do just fine.

Installation options for lining

Getting started finishing works steam room, the main question will be how to place the lining in the bathhouse - vertically or horizontally. To select the arrangement of cladding elements in horizontal or vertical plane it is necessary to take into account not only aesthetics, but also the laws of physics, under which cold air accumulates below, and the hot one rises up to the ceiling.

The vertical arrangement visually increases the height of the room, making it visually more spacious. However, temperature differences are observed within the same board due to the temperature difference between the top and bottom. As a result, deformation changes may occur in the form of warping, propeller-bearing and other defects on the surface of the board. In addition, the process of rotting may begin in the lower part of the profiled board.

Important advantages of the horizontal arrangement of the lining when covering a steam room are:

1. Uniform heating of the board along its entire length;
2. The same moisture content of the elements over the entire area, which prevents the development of the rotting process;
3. Simplifying the repair process when it is necessary to replace the board.

It is significant that water that gets on the wall does not flow into the gaps of the elements during horizontal installation, which is possible with vertical cladding. Disadvantage horizontal method styling is deteriorating natural ventilation requiring room equipment compulsory system ventilation.

Specific choice in favor of arranging the lining in a steam room vertically or horizontally depends on the preferences of the consumer and has its own characteristics in carrying out the work.

Installation of lining in a bathhouse

Before sheathing the steam room, the cladding is secured. To do this, the beam is attached to the wall with galvanized screws. Then, having determined a straight vertical line with a building level, install the sheathing beam on it. The first slats are installed from the corner, and subsequent slats are installed in increments of 50-60 cm, moving to the next corner. A layer of waterproofing is placed under the slats and, if desired, the slats are treated with a protective non-flammable agent. It is imperative to understand in advance how to sheathe a steam room in a bathhouse, and only then begin work.

The next layer will be a layer of non-flammable insulation (mineral or basalt wool), which has excellent water- and vapor-proof properties. The main thing is to ensure a tight fit of the insulation. If necessary, additional compaction is carried out polyurethane foam or self-adhesive tape.

A vapor barrier layer of foil or regular film is laid on the mineral wool, which is secured with staples from an industrial stapler. At the final stage, the lining is laid vertically or horizontally.

It is very important to insert the planks as evenly as possible, since the slightest disturbance will cause depressions or bulges to appear on the lining wall. If pine lining is used, then it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment to remove resin and grease stains. To this end wooden slats lubricate with a 25% acetone solution.

When installing the sheathing and laying insulation, mark the place where they will be ventilation holes. The most effective ventilation will be when placing one hole near the stove near the ceiling, and the second at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor. For the air duct, 100 mm corrugated aluminum is used.

The finishing of the steam room begins from the ceiling, and the first board is attached at the entrance (more details: ""). For installation, clamps are used and a finishing nail is used only for the last board. The lining is fastened exclusively using a hidden method.

This choice is dictated by the following circumstances:

1. Heating, twisted metalware through and through, which can burn the skin;
2. Possibility of rust appearing on hardware when exposed to wet steam;
3. Not aesthetically pleasing appearance with open mount.

The wooden paneling is secured using clamps or self-tapping screws. The kleimer, as the fastening bracket is called, is made of galvanized iron and screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. The advantage of clamps is that there is no damage to the lining sheets during installation. The height of the clamps depends on the type of materials and for eurolining it is 4 mm, and for wooden lining the height is up to 5 mm.

How to lay the lining in the bathhouse depends on the installation method. When positioned vertically, installation begins from the corner with the end board secured in a special bracket - a clamp. Work begins from the left corner, placing a board with a length less than 5-10 mm less than required, with the ridge towards the corner.

The boards are then nailed to the sheathing battens in the middle. The next board covers the already nailed board with a ridge, and is also attached to the sheathing batten. When using finishing nails, they are nailed strictly at an angle. All subsequent boards are attached in the same way. At the same time, the level constantly checks the correct placement of the boards. Before nailing the last board, measure the width and cut it if necessary.

For horizontal installation, you can nail the boards starting from the top or bottom. Laying horizontally begins from the ceiling by attaching the first batten to the sheathing with the groove down. Then the boards are positioned as close to each other as possible, like a designer, with the tongue of the top board fitting into the groove of the bottom panel.

Installation from bottom to top is simpler, but the need to cut the top board to width gives the wall an untidy appearance. And when moving from top to bottom, the gap formed after cutting to required width the last board can be disguised with a beautiful baseboard.

After completion of all work, the final decoration of the surface is carried out using special corners and ropes. The slopes of the doorways are finished with clapboard cut to the required size and framed with platbands. For additional protection conduct from moisture finishing mounted lining with a special composition based on wax or water base.

Have you tried and built a beautiful steam room hut? Now we need to finish the inside of the bathhouse, which requires no less attention than exterior work. High humidity and elevated temperature put forward special requests for materials, because not all of them are able to withstand difficult operating conditions. The choice of cladding determines how long the structure will last and how comfortable the procedures will be. Various rooms in the bathhouse they require their own approach to finishing, but the most difficult is finishing the steam room in the bathhouse.

Steam room design in a bathhouse Source et.aviarydecor.com

What material is suitable for a steam room?

For interior work there are a lot finishing materials. To make it easier for you to choose what kind of finishing the steam room in the bathhouse will have, photos and paintings ready-made solutions Every designer has one. It is worth remembering that even if you made your own choice, it is better to coordinate it with a specialist, because not all materials are suitable for installation inside the hottest room.

Taking into account the specific operating conditions, the following requirements are imposed on the finishing:

moisture resistance;

heat resistance;

durability;

hygiene;

environmental friendliness.

Important! For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, you should choose natural materials.

When the temperature rises, the plastic becomes deformed and begins to release bad smell, and ordinary tiles crack after heating. Therefore, the use of such finishing is unacceptable in the steam room.

The best option is wood. The finishing structure depends on financial capabilities. For example, lining is cheaper than timber; it is chosen if it is necessary to meet a certain budget. Basically, bathhouse owners prefer deciduous wood. Below is an example of what the interior decoration of a bathhouse might look like, a photo of the classic version.

High-quality wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse Source stroy-block.com.ua

There is an opinion that you should not sheathe the inside with steamed coniferous wood, since it releases resin when the temperature rises. But this statement is controversial, because resin has a beneficial effect on health, cleanses the respiratory tract, and strengthens the heart.

Whether or not to sheathe the interior with coniferous wood is up to you - maybe someone in your household doesn’t like the smell of pine needles or vice versa...

If lining was chosen for cladding the bathhouse, then it must be of high quality. Particular attention must be paid external treatment material - there should be no chips, knots or cracks on its surface. The lining should not deform: swell when heated or dry out at normal temperatures.

If wood is not suitable for you as a material for interior decoration of a steam room for some reason, you can give preference to heat-resistant tiles; they have proven themselves well under significant temperature changes.

Video description

How to insulate the ceiling and decorate the walls in a bathhouse is shown in the video:

Ceiling protection

Before finishing, you should protect the ceiling from hot steam. To do this, use aluminum foil or a construction membrane.

Important! Do not use foil with mineral wool or polypropylene foam glued on it. When heated, these materials release toxic substances.

Protecting the ceiling in the bathhouse with aluminum foil Source ko.aviarydecor.com

Using lining - rational or not

Definitely yes! Lining made from linden, aspen, cedar, and abashi has become popular due to its properties. It tolerates temperature changes well, high humidity, is aesthetically pleasing, and does not absorb moisture. Cladding made of clapboard has low thermal conductivity - it does not heat up, but transfers heat to the air.

Bath lining is not covered with varnish, antiseptic, or paint; it is used in its natural form.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer the service of building a bathhouse. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Preparing the walls for finishing

When starting to finish the walls, they solve the issue of insulation and waterproofing. Without such measures, the bathhouse will not last long, and healing procedures will be reduced to simple hygienic ones. For insulation, the walls are covered with mineral or basalt wool. The second one is more resistant to high temperatures, so it lasts longer.

Insulation of walls in a steam room with mineral wool Source hvylya.net

Experts consider cork to be the best thermal insulator for bathhouse walls. This agglomerate does not burn, does not rot, and is resistant to fungi and mold.

Lathing - to do or not to do

Craftsmen prefer to install the sheathing and attach the interior trim to it. The popular base size is 50x50, less often they make 70x70. The pitch is not standard and varies depending on the size of the blocks being strengthened.

The sheathing is made of wood, less often of metal. Considering the operating conditions, the metal must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds. The lining or logs are secured with self-tapping screws and nails. They must be copper or brass. The installation of the base is done perpendicular to the sheathing.

Lathing walls in the steam room under the lining Source: seattlehelpers.org

Stages of clapboard finishing

Along the perimeter of the wall and ceiling fix the beam. Fastenings should be every 80–100 cm.

Cut pieces of insulation wool placed between the tree without compacting.

Above covered with a waterproofing agent. The joints are sealed with aluminum tape, Special attention paying attention to the corners.

Equip ventilation. To do this, fill the distance rail. It will provide a small gap (2–3 cm) through which air will be vented.

Do separate upholstery doors and windows.

Fastening the lining. You need to start from the corner, fixing each part vertically. This position will ensure free flow of water. If a horizontal arrangement of blocks is planned, make sure that the spikes are at the top. This will protect the lock from moisture.

Lining located in corners or near walls, cut to required size. It is especially important to cut the corner block correctly. It is necessary to accurately calculate the angle of inclination so that the adjacent block is correctly fixed.

Insulating the furnace using a metal sheet Source interistroy.ru

metal– stainless steel or profiled iron is mounted on the wall behind the stove;

Red brick– placed between the wall and the fire;

tiles, resistant to high temperatures (kaolin);

mineralite– heat-resistant board made of cement and special components.

Video description

Watch the video for step-by-step installation of the lining in the steam room:

Making the floor in the steam room

Not only comfort, but also safety depends on the choice of raw materials for the floor. Moisture on smooth tiles or linoleum leads to falls and injuries. Installation of such materials will turn the floor into a skating rink. In addition, when heated, linoleum emits an unpleasant odor containing substances harmful to health.

The optimal choice of floor for a steam room is wood. It does not require a special coating, and with this design the room will be designed in the same style. It is worth noting that the wooden floor in the bathhouse is not made of oak. This wood becomes stronger when wet, but at the same time its surface begins to slip.

Concrete works well. A floor made of such material will be strong and durable. Tiles are laid on top of it, but the structure of the surface of such a coating is important. It should not be glossy; a pronounced relief is necessary. The floor is laid at a slight slope towards the water drainage.

Laying tiles on the floor in a bathhouse Source: seattlehelpers.org

The tiles are laid from the corner, placing crosses between the blocks, tapping with a mounting hammer. After 2-3 days, the seams between the tiles are rubbed down. Wooden grates are placed on top to prevent you from stepping on the cold floor and provide additional safety in case of possible slipping.

And now the shelves

Very important point- shelves in the bathhouse. Since constant tactile contact is assumed with them, increased requirements are put forward for these elements:

they should not get very hot;

it's better if cool down slowly;

must be environmentally friendly;

don't slip and not be very rough;

don't have external damage;

easy to wash.

Again, wood is most suitable for this purpose. Carefully cleaned, without knots or nicks, it has served people in bathhouses and steam rooms for centuries. Shelves should not have sharp corners that could cause injury. They are not made solid, leaving a small distance between the wooden boards.

Setting up a dressing room

The main function of the dressing room is to preserve heat. The temperature in the room is not high, so it is good to use coniferous trees to decorate walls in a traditional style.

Design of the waiting room and rest room “under the tree” Source koon.ru

The interior decoration of the bathhouse made of logs creates an atmosphere of antiquity and ancient fairy tales. A light aroma created by pine, fir, and spruce is appropriate here. The wood of these species resists fungus and mold well. It does not crack after drying and is durable. When heated, fir releases almost no resin.

If hardwood is preferred, experts advise finishing the room with birch. The lining can be laid out not only in even rows, but also in a pattern. It is important that the walls in the room are covered with the same type of wood.

Bathroom and washroom

These rooms do not have very high temperatures, although the humidity is as high as in a steam room. The choice of finishes in the bathroom and washroom is more extensive. Fans of bath procedures recommend using natural raw materials for such rooms - wood or stone. Among wood, pine is the leader - it is an affordable material, however, it darkens with prolonged use.

An example of a washroom design Source profstroiplotnik.ru

Plastic is acceptable since there is no high temperature, and it tolerates humid air well. You can use regular tiles for the shower.

What is better to use to decorate a rest room?

The rest room should be beautiful and cozy, so the design of the room comes first. It is not necessary to install heat- and moisture-resistant materials here. The relaxation room should be:

easy to care for;

hygienic;

environmentally friendlym;

comfortable;

aesthetic.

Video description

For interesting ideas for interior decoration of a bathhouse, watch the video:

The decoration of the relaxation room in the bathhouse, in addition to traditional wood, can be done:

glass wallpaper;

porcelain stoneware;

natural stone ;

decorative plaster.

Important! The tree is not installed immediately after delivery to the construction site. It is brought into the room and allowed to stand for a couple of days so that it “gets comfortable” in the bathhouse. After this procedure, the wood is not subject to deformation when heated and high humidity.

Conclusion

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse requires effort and imagination. But, if you do everything correctly and entrust this work to professionals, the bathhouse will last a long time to restore strength and health. All you have to do is choose what kind of decoration the bathhouse will have inside: photos of steam rooms will help you find best option style and materials.