A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is extremely small in size. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show one’s creative abilities in a summer cottage, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo in a suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for work
Before starting work, you must prepare appropriate tools, which will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use regular, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always used. This list usually includes:
- A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
- Chisels for selecting various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for sanding.
Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.
Rating of jigsaws - A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate a table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
Make a similar one country table- everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too much a large number of wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:
- Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Wood glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
- 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then cover it with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, carefully go over the top grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.
Frame or “box” of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.
The elements can be connected in different ways:
Connection with "quarter" selection and using metal corners
- using a steel angle - this is the simplest and reliable way;
- the insertion method is a more complex method, since it requires precise dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle - “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;
- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.
- All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
- If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step The table top is covered transversely with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.
- After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is installing the legs - The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in dacha gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
- In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.
Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | Part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Material of manufacture, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top of the cabinet. | 1 | 600×475 | Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding table top. | 2 | 530×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet. | 2 | 120×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table cabinet. | 2 | 720×520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | Bottom vertical part internal partition cabinets. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the cabinet. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | Cabinet drawer front panel. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Drawer bottom panel. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Handles for drawers and cabinet doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture door hinges. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Individual table components – drawer and a guide channel for moving the leg (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the tabletop. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm, from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw. |
 | Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve correct form semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges may have different shapes, so they should be placed in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue. |
 | Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet. |
 | The cabinet elements do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel, through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm. |
 | Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or you simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then you should not put off making your own. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting option round table, which can easily serve both at home and on the site.
Video: example of assembling a round table
And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:
Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining room, a utility table, or installed in a living room, on a veranda, on a property, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But many people are not satisfied with purchased products due to a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for other reasons.
Considering that wood is relatively easy to cut and sand, making a table from it according to your own drawing, with your own hands, is not a problem for a good owner. And it will come out much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
Room
Ideally, this is an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although small area under a canopy. Working with wood on the site, under open air- means completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on changes in wind direction and pressure), and a hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, you can work in closed space, do not stand up to any criticism. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some action is being performed. Neither precise cutting along the line, nor high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention impregnation and finishing coating paint and varnish composition) cannot be obtained.
One cannot ignore the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations: if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape it will be given, and a number of other nuances. If the master does not lay claim to the elegance of a wooden table and does not aim to achieve its originality, then an ordinary carpenter’s set will be enough.
For more “delicate” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design special devices will be needed.
El/jigsaw. It will not be possible to make an inclined vertical cut with a regular saw, maintaining the angle exactly. The canvas will begin to “play”, and therefore the quality of work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, and also gives high accuracy cutting wood or making cuts in it.
Many of the listed devices can be rented if making furniture is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnating and other compositions
Rot protection:
- Recycling machine oil is an effective, and also free, remedy. But not for dining tables.
- Flaxseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deeply into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. The downside is the high cost. But if the table is intended for eating, this is a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, or streaks, unlike processing.
- Water-polymer emulsion. It is characterized by long-lasting action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They have practically supplanted their predecessors in the “NC” category, since they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions - .
To decorate a tree:
- Clear varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can preserve the texture of the wood and shade it.
- Stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (tinting).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition of any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a discarded board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. It is more than advisable, since it is not always possible to purchase exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
It is better to ignore all advice on assembling a wooden table using nails (the reasoning is simple, quick and cheap). The reasons are as follows:
- The nail easily pricks dry wood (and this is exactly what is used; more on that below).
- It is quite difficult to direct its leg correctly (strictly vertically). In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your mistake.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, succumbs to it over time. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2–3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if glue alone is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at joints) require reinforcement. Strengthening the strength with hardware with a thicker and longer leg is impractical. The reason is the same - the likelihood of the tree splitting. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, and corners are used.
Features of choosing wood
Some people focus on the cost of lumber, others care about the wood’s resistance to rot, and for others, its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use the same type of wood for a table unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in a utility room or garage. This is exactly what many novice “craftsmen” do, selecting the same type of boards and bars from what is left from construction or renovation and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for a living space, veranda, etc., you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if you do not have sufficient experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in your life is just a kind of training in making and gaining experience.
Table top. Here, strength and minimal moisture absorption come first. It is on this part of the table that something constantly spills. Optimal choice– pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness – at least 3 cm.If the size of the countertop is small, then you can use wood-based slab products (OSV, OSV and the like). But only with lamination to prevent the material from swelling when liquid gets on the table surface. For example, chipboard.
Low-grade lumber is not used in the furniture industry. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the production cycle time. But when making anything, wood of lower grades, substandard wood is just right. The same pallets left over after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it is free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood can be turned into advantages with the right approach. For example, after coating with colorless varnish, the tabletop acquires a unique, original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the tabletop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arches are called humps. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account when laying them in a row. Samples obtained by tangential cutting are arranged alternatingly (one top down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but compliance with this recommendation eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. As wood shrinks, it will become deformed; This is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, and bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly become warped, and you will have to repair it. And here you need to decide whether to purchase highly dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second one will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure stable temperature regime at the place where the workpieces are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and perhaps this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be as expected; Even this requires practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make furniture from wood for the first time, you should focus on the simplest table for economic needs made of cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Options and patterns of wooden tables
It should immediately be noted that any work related to the design and self-assembly- the process is creative. There are no stereotypes in this matter, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be like. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms It is worth choosing designs whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms intended purpose, they are made stationary, that is, unchangeable in size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are rigidly fixed; no hinge joints.
Features of assembling wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, it means that he knows how to use tools, read blueprints and work with lumber. Such a home craftsman does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But it would be worth noting a number of nuances when making a wooden table. These notes will only help in the process.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that you assemble with your own hands, the ones listed below are quite enough.
On the dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by placing them on an adhesive composition (Fig. 1 – 3).
The nuance is that to make the “cylinders” that are inserted into pre-drilled “channels”, a tree of a denser structure than the table elements is taken. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are available for sale in any furniture showroom in several sizes. Turning them, even if you have a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for dismountable connections. For example, frame furniture(walls, multi-level shelving, etc.).
You should not use nails to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - it will begin to “shatter”, especially if the table is intended to be installed on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the kings
It is advisable to make such connections if the table either has to be disassembled periodically, or without this it is impossible to move it through the doorway. Although not all drawers require dismantling the structure. The most commonly used options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are used mainly for garden furniture or those installed in extensions; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the desired direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation using a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the axial lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, to “plant” the screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a plane is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, polishing, has to be done many times. Much depends on the type of wood and the degree of drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the fibers may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely this method that can bring “problem” wood to ideal “smoothness.”
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of external decoration
- Minor defects in the form of cracks and chips are eliminated with putty.
- Once sanding is complete, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, a regular household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate attachment will help out. It is recommended that after such cleaning, wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat removing any remaining dust. After this, you can safely start applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the wood.
- You can add originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is artistic painting.
And finally. The work of independently making something out of wood (the same table) is just First stage mastering the skill of “designer-assembler”. Having developed technologies and techniques on wood and acquired the necessary skills, it is enough to simply switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made even according to the simplest drawing (besides the pleasure of work and money saved) are obvious - time not wasted.
A DIY kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the existing space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.
How to make a wooden dining table
A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But you don’t have to buy such a table, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.
So, to make a dining table with your own hands you will need:
- 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
- For the tabletop: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);
- For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.
Prepare the tools: plane, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and safety glasses will come in handy.
To finish the table you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. First we'll make the tabletop. To do this, you need to adjust all 4 boards as accurately as possible to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn on a sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully sanded with a plane. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Finish the edges well so that the boards fit together as tightly as possible.
We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make identical marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks treated with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars one by one. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and sand it, as well as all edges, with a plane. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.
So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.
To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.
We attach the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the tabletop later.
After the glue in the frame has dried, you can begin installing the tabletop on it (frame).
If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.
So, the table is almost ready, all that remains is to treat it with varnish or stain, or paint it, having previously primed it.
What color should I paint the table? Based on personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are covered with stain.
You can see the main mistakes in staining wood with your own hands in this video.
If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be covered with stain, and on top - with varnish (example in the photo below), or simply coated with varnish.
You can paint the legs white and cover the tabletop with stain to get a design like the one in the next photo.
How to make a kitchen table from chipboard
A DIY kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget-friendly solution. These countertops are covered with decorative plastic that is abrasion-resistant. In the typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop sheet are 3000x600x36(26) mm, but today it is not difficult to purchase a sheet of chipboard cut to the required dimensions or negotiate with a furniture workshop for the sale of suitable trim.
You will also need:
- Connecting and end strips;
- End edges;
- Ties.
Even if you purchase a countertop of suitable dimensions, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive and also protect the base from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue edge tape. The option with edging is considered more practical for the dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.
For a kitchen table you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy legs separately or give preference to a ready-made base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and height 71 cm. They can be collapsible, height adjustable, and also vary in design - matte, painted, shiny.
In our case, these will be chrome-plated shiny rod legs with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white laminated chipboard with a thickness of 36 mm and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths matched to it.
So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:
- Markings are applied to the material according to the drawing. The corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.
- The tabletop is shaped using a jigsaw.
You should use a saw with reversible teeth, otherwise the plastic coating may chip. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded grinder.
- The groove for the furniture edging is milled.
- The edging is getting stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered silicone sealant. The sealant is placed both in the edging and on the top edge of the tabletop. A rubber mallet is used to fill the edging. After which the excess sealant is removed.
- The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back side of the tabletop. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.
To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After this, the legs are put on the holders and secured with a hex key - that’s it, your new table is ready.
How to correctly determine the dimensions
Using the principles described above, you can make tables larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the optimal size for your family?
If we're talking about O standard kitchen dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.
A DIY dining table should be designed for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies a good solution would be.
Calculations are carried out as follows: multiply the number of people by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the tabletop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values– from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.
If you decide to do kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.
Form selection rules
The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.
Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they are not very spacious - the largest product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas– more than 8 sq. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.
It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very large and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.
The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. We have already described above how to make just such a table from chipboard with your own hands.
Rules for caring for furniture
After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.
Thus, furniture made of wood, polished and varnished, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, there may be traces from contact with hot water. For basic wood care, a universal polishing compound is selected.
If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and involves regular washing with detergents.
Do not forget that kitchen furniture need to move away from heating devices and from the walls bordering the street. Harmful to wooden furniture There will also be direct sunlight.
This type of useful furniture such as DIY wooden table It's not just a way to save money or show off your carpentry skills to others. First of all, such a homemade item is an opportunity to make a thing that is ideally suited for the tasks assigned to it in terms of size, configuration, material and strength. And, if everything is done according to the instructions and recommendations of the craftsmen, then making a new table will not be much more difficult than assembling a ready-made one brought in a box from the store.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands
Before disassembling specific items and recommendations for how to make a wooden table with your own hands, you should decide whether you need to get exactly wooden product and what exactly its design will be. This texture is ideal for, because the naturalness and environmental friendliness of wood fits perfectly with the dacha concept.
But even in city apartments, especially in those whose design is in Provence, rustic, and Scandinavian styles, small wooden tables that look like they have been deliberately aged fit perfectly. Yes, and loft or others modern varieties they cannot do without a wooden texture, however, it is more likely that the main material there may be wooden pallets. This type of furniture is more likely to be referred to as furniture, since its assembly resembles the assembly of a construction set. If you want exactly this coffee table, then keep in mind that the pallets must first be dried well (so that they do not change their shape, they do not “sag” after one season of use), all the boards must be brought to an absolutely even shape using a power tool, and only then painted. Therefore, think about whether you can spend the same efforts on making even a small DIY wooden table, video with a master class for which you will find on the Internet, but it will be durable furniture that will probably not go out of fashion for a long time and will serve its owner faithfully.
DIY wooden garden table
In most cases, we need advice on creating exactly DIY garden table made of wood. There are a huge number of tasks for this piece of furniture; we can safely say that there are never enough tables in a dacha. Therefore, a dining table, a kitchen table, and a picnic table, round, for a gazebo or folding, with which you can sit on the terrace or on the river bank while fishing. And for each option there are individual tips for creating.
However, there are general recommendations that you can keep in mind when creating DIY wooden table, photo which you see in our article today. This applies to the selection of wood, for example. It is believed that a tabletop, especially a product that sits outdoors, should be hardwood such as oak or walnut, but today with the availability of a large number of quality protectants and varnishes, you can very well use pine boards, which are much cheaper in price and , with proper processing, they will serve you for a very long time. If you want to practice cutting complex elements or creating carvings, then choose soft woods such as linden, but be prepared for scratches or dents if used too hard.
The second important general point in creation is the choice of a suitable configuration for it. You can pay attention to the finished projects DIY wooden table, drawings which are included, including in our article. They already have dimensions indicated, but this should be treated only as a recommendation. After all, what are good independent work– you have the right to make your own decision on size and shape. It is according to the number of members of your family that you can choose the width and length of the tabletop, and the shape is selected according to the height or parameters of the terrace, gazebo, inside which the furniture will stand. The standards are considered to be a height of 75-85 centimeters and a rectangular tabletop of 120x70 centimeters.
Based on all of the above, the first stage can be called creating a drawing on which you will not only mark everything required dimensions, but you will also make an approximate cutting of the parts that you will need for assembly. You can use the illustrations as an example DIY wooden table, drawings, photos which you see above. The diagrams indicate the sequence of actions that must be followed to make the product stable. In general, the stability of the legs and the evenness of the surface of the tabletop are two prerequisites for such a table. For evenness, you must comply exact dimensions length of the legs and trim their lower surfaces well. The finished product can even be checked using a level to see if it will stand in the correct plane. But regarding sustainability, there are different ways. For some this is achieved by various quantities legs, that is, not the classic four in all corners of the rectangle, three or even one, strictly in the center. If there are four legs, then they are additionally equipped with stiffening ribs, supports and jumpers between each other. By the way, it is very convenient to place your feet on such supports during a feast; this can be called another a nice bonus.
DIY wooden tables and chairs
Set DIY wooden table and chairs made, will be an excellent option for filling a summer terrace, where you can have lunch and dinner on fresh air. Even if there is a canopy or roof over the set, timely care and processing of the wood before starting work is still very important. The boards should not have any unevenness, knots, or holes; they should be completely dry, so that later you do not get deformation during use, because there will be plenty of humidity in the surrounding space. It would also be a good solution to make the tabletop and the top of chairs or benches not solid, but with gaps between the boards, which will allow rainwater to drain from the surface without stagnating.
You can see one option in the photo. For this, boards are taken; they should not be too thick, since on such surfaces the deformation of the surface may be stronger, but not thin, so that fairly heavy pots or other utensils can be placed on the surface. If you cannot afford to make the entire product using hard, valuable wood, you can combine it by making the tabletop itself durable and resistant to damage. The model we offer you is made on four points of support, so it is perfect for a stationary table that is fixed in one place. Used for fastening metal pipes, which are deepened into the ground and, if necessary, concreted.
First, the boards are knocked together, using special self-tapping screws, since ordinary metal nails can lead to damage to the material. The assembly takes place on two boards, which are located below; everything else needs to be screwed onto them. After this, the surface must be processed using a manual or electric plane; of course, if you use an electric one, it will save you much more time. The boards that will create the frame of the table top, as well as the timber for the legs, are cleaned in the same way. Final sanding with sandpaper is carried out after the product has been assembled. You can trim the edge using a router either on a ready-made, assembled tabletop or on boards; you just need to mark the boundaries if you want to repeat the rounded shape, as in our example.
In another example, the step-by-step production of which you see above, the tabletop is literally assembled using scraps of boards that were previously used in repairs or construction. In this case, it is very important that their thickness be the same, because they will be assembled at the ends. Interesting visual effect is ensured by the assembly technology, because the boards are literally strung on metal pins and additionally glued. Then the legs are nailed to the surface, made at an angle of 45 degrees.
DIY wooden gazebo table
If we highlight the models that are the most complex and require special attention, then among them wooden gazebo table. With your own hands it is not so difficult to make, but it is very important to correctly calculate its dimensions and fit it into the existing space of the gazebo as efficiently as possible. When we, after all, care more about its functionality than about any decorative properties. In the case of a gazebo, a place that attracts special attention from guests, you need to take care of the visual decoration of the tabletop. Both carving and interesting design using saw cuts.
As for the shape, you need to be guided by the shape of the building itself, inside which the furniture will stand. That is, in a rounded gazebo, a square or round tabletop will not only look ugly, but also the space will be used extremely irrationally. That is, most often they use a simple rule - in a round gazebo they put a round table, in a hexagonal one - a hexagonal one, in a spacious and wide rectangular one - a rectangular one.
DIY round table made of wood
Since the round gazebo is the most popular type, we can say that exactly round table do it yourself from wood and is the #1 model that DIYers want to make. The particular difficulty that distinguishes this particular shape is cutting out the shape; you must not spoil the material and try to ensure that you get a perfect circle.
For those who doubt their abilities and the levelness of their hands, we can recommend a compromise option - buy a round ready-made tabletop and make furniture based on it. For a round top, it would be important to use a tripod system, which is shown in the photo above. First, a base is created, three boards are connected to each other, and legs are nailed to them. The last step is to attach the tabletop to a self-tapping screw in the center.
One of the mandatory attributes of human housing is a table. It should be in the apartment, and in the cottage, and summer house in the country.
Making a wooden table with your own hands is not like that difficult task as it appears at first glance. Simple design, which is suitable for a summer residence, can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if this is the first time he has picked up a carpenter’s tool.
More complex models, which will decorate the kitchen or living room, will require creative approach and certain skills, but this work is also doable if you follow certain rules.
Possible options
Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and the right approach will fit organically into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:
- with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
- corner - help save internal space;
- transformers – multifunctional structures;
- folding and sliding – allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
- “books” are a common modification of a folding table.
It is noteworthy that all of the listed table options can be made in a home-made environment, literally from scrap materials.
Regardless of the design and shape, a homemade wooden table must satisfy two requirements. Firstly, it must match the interior of the room; if this rule is not followed, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.
Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.
Preparatory stage
Even a simple rectangular table on four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what's needed home handyman in the production process.
Blueprints
This required condition, which will allow you to visualize the future table, determine the size and amount of material. You can search for finished drawings on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Internet users, describing in detail each stage of production.
If we are talking about a unique table design that is planned to be created according to own project, you can’t do without a drawing. You can draw the future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:
- external dimensions (length, width, height);
- attaching the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center; rectangular designs require 1 support for each corner;
- mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).
It is necessary to carefully consider how all the parts of the table will be assembled together, what additional wood processing will be required before or after assembly.
Material
It is no secret that different types of wood have different properties and not all wood is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.
Soft. This includes almost all coniferous species (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many deciduous species (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). This material is easy to process, but the finished table will require additional protective coating, especially if it is intended to be used outdoors. Wood coniferous species dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracks. The exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for making tables.
Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Even without impregnation, such timber is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but during the processing process one cannot do without power tools.
Super durable. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is only possible in the workshops of industrial enterprises.
Tool
The simplest rough table made of boards can be assembled with your own hands using just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:
- electric jigsaw;
- sander;
- Screwdriver Set;
- drill with a set of drills of different diameters;
- roulette;
- a simple pencil;
- square
In addition, it is recommended to pre-treat the wood with special antiseptics, which will make ready product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sides, you will need special cutters. A lathe or milling machine woodworking, but not everyone has such tools.
Homemade tables for the garden
The simplest and practical option for arranging a country house - a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary at first glance, pallets are ready-made source material that requires virtually no additional processing, but offering multiple use cases. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.
This design is made in an elementary way. One pallet is attached to the wall using nails or self-tapping screws. The installation height is selected individually. The working part – the tabletop – is attached to the fixed base. The elements are connected to each other by two chains, which will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 hinges are placed at the junction of the pallets; in addition, you can install a locking mechanism, for example a hook, which will hold such a table in the closed position.
A more complex option is a coffee table made of pallets, which will look natural on the veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, sanded, and painted. After this, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop and fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design can be made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.
We use leftover building materials
On almost any personal plot there are boards left over from the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating simple rectangular table, which can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining room or utility room.
Here you need to follow these instructions:
- we assemble the frame. To do this you will need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To preserve the geometry, we use a square. Iron corners can be placed at the joints, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
- screw the legs. For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed with inside frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;
- stiffening rib . An additional wooden crossbar is nailed approximately in the middle of the legs. A crossbar is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other small items necessary for the household;
- table top This is where the remaining boards go, which are best placed across the frame. The material is cut with a hacksaw to the width of the table and attached to the frame with finishing nails.
At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinding machine, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in which case the wood will last much longer. And if you go over the boards with a brush and apply stain on top, you will get an antique table.
Table with benches
This option is perfect for a garden; the wooden structure is installed permanently; depending on the chosen dimensions, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. In production garden table and benches made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together threaded connection: steel studs.
The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are cut to size according to the drawings. To assemble the bench you will need:
- 3 long boards that will go on the seat;
- 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
- 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
- 1 board is 25-30 cm shorter than the length of the seat - a stiffener.
note that all of the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.
The benches are assembled according to this pattern. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short cross members. The legs are installed, which are clamped with the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, secured with pins.
Seat boards are nailed to the top of the frame. There is no need to place them closely; it is better to leave small gaps.
The finished seats are connected to each other by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is done at the bottom of the legs so that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.
After preparing the base, the table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting support posts are made according to a principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cross-shaped and fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches to each other. The result is a comfortable DIY wood kitchen table that can be used for family gatherings.
Round tables
Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table from wood with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if old trees are being felled in the courtyard of a multi-story building or next to a personal plot, you can get an original round table top without extra effort. A tree cut made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable for this. Such a round piece, 5-7 centimeters thick, is varnished and can become a table for keys installed in the hallway.
If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round tabletop on your own. To do this you will need 4 boards of the following sizes:
- length – 2000 mm;
- width – 250 mm;
- thickness – 40 mm.
The boards are tightly connected to each other (without fastening), a circle is drawn on the surface required diameter. After this, the boards are cut with a jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are assumed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed using corners; after assembly, the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, you can install it in an apartment in the kitchen or living room.
An oval table is assembled using a similar principle. The only difference is that on the boards connected to each other, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals at the ends. The boards are cut along the line with a jigsaw. The frame is also made of bars, but is strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located at a distance of 10-20 cm from the edge of the tabletop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, the manufacture of carved supports will require certain knowledge, so it is better to order such elements from a furniture manufacturer.
Transformable tables
A folding table made of wood, made by yourself and capable of changing its original shape, is a real masterpiece. Folding structures look equally advantageous in a country house and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The simplest option is to make a transformer for personal plot, and you can easily cope with this task yourself.
To surprise guests and get a comfortable wooden picnic table, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs. The seat is made of 3 boards connected to each other by crossbars. There is one nuance here: the edge of the crossbar, which is located on the back side, should protrude beyond the edges of the seat by 10-15 cm.
Table legs are made in different lengths. A short support post is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the backrest. Note that the recommended height of the backrest should vary between 60-90 cm. The design feature of the backrest is that it is mounted on one bolt, which is located in the upper part and performs the function rotary mechanism. Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack where the lock for the backrest will be inserted.
After completing all the operations, you get 2 benches on which you can sit quite comfortably while discussing last news or admiring the sunset. If you lift the backs of these benches and move them closer to each other, you get a table with two rows of seats. Taking into account the width of each backrest, a tabletop measuring 120-180 cm is obtained.
Computer desk
If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems quite complex design. It has a pull-out shelf for the keyboard, drawers for storing disks and other elements, the manufacture of which requires experience. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at the computer.
Here you can try this option:
- steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On one side, a frame is immediately made for the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements on the other end;
- the tabletop is made from boards or fiberboard sheets cut to size;
- the shelves are made of material similar to the tabletop.
All elements are connected to each other by a threaded connection or angle. Of course, this design is inferior to factory analogues in terms of external design, but it is several times cheaper and copes with its task.
Processing and external finishing
To make a homemade wooden table look presentable appearance and retained its properties for as long as possible, before assembly, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After installation is completed, the surfaces are thoroughly sanded, small flaws are masked with putty. Then apply varnish: it is better to choose compositions based on acrylic base, which are safe to work with.
To extend their service life, it is recommended to protect wooden tables from extreme wetness and direct sunlight. In a dacha garden, it is better to install them in a shaded place and cover them with film during rain.
