The topic seems to be “hackneyed”, I’ve read a lot, I have a lot of doubts, please advise, respected practitioners and experts in the field interior decoration.
Walls of the house: gas silicate block D 600, Venti Bats insulation on the outside, ventilation gap and half-brick cladding. Need plaster on the inside, wall area 230 sq. m. In order for the house, as they say, to “breathe,” what is the optimal way to plaster based on this and from an economic point of view?
I saw two options:
1. Lime-sand dry mixture produced by a local brick factory at a price of 2500 rubles per ton; they could not find out the consumption, they only said that cement would need to be added. In total, I assumed a consumption of 10 kg of dry mixture per 1 sq. m. meter, received a quantity of material of 2300 kg and costs at 230 sq. meters of walls cost 5,750 rubles. Plus cement, I think in the end it will cost 8-10 thousand rubles.
2. Gypsum plaster, sold in Leroy for 200 rubles 30 kg (bag) of the “Stone Flower” brand and for 300 rubles 30 kg of the “Volma” brand. For 230 kg at a consumption of 9 kg of dry mixture per square meter indicated on the bags. meter (in my opinion, the walls are quite smooth, this consumption is indicated on the bags with a layer of plaster thickness of 1 cm) it turns out that you need 2070 kg, i.e. 69 bags. Accordingly, “Stone Flower” gypsum plaster will cost 13,800 rubles, “Volma” will cost 22,350 rubles.
More introductory notes: the house will be without heating, but with windows it will stand for another 2-3 years, I plan to plaster it for painting with paints on water based, plasterers in the region ask for 280 rubles per sq. m. meter plastering works plus another 160 rubles with putty for painting, a total of 440 rubles per sq. m. meter of wall for painting, my wall area will cost me about 100 thousand rubles.
Dear colleagues, questions:
1. What is the difference between gypsum plaster for 200 rubles a bag and 300 rubles? In reliability, operational characteristics, durability after completing the work, comfort in the future, or simply ease of application, I want the house to “breathe”, I don’t care about ease of application, because I will pay for the final result?
2. Is it better to use lime-sand plaster or gypsum plaster? How much does gypsum really provide a better microclimate in the house than lime-sand-cement plaster? First of all, I am interested in a comfortable microclimate in the house in the future; if I calculated correctly, then the difference in the cost of these two materials is not critical, because the main cost here is in the work. Or is the consumption indicated by the manufacturers on the bags underestimated, everyone writes that gypsum is much more expensive? The house, as indicated above, will stand without heating for 2-3 years, I read that gypsum plaster May swell due to humidity.
3. Who has had experience - how many 30 kg bags of dry gypsum plaster will actually be needed for 230 sq. m. of mid-level walls?
4. Is it still necessary to prime the gas block before plastering work and with what, or is it enough to wet the walls with water? Should the plaster be primed before applying putty or not?
5. Regarding plastering work: 280 rubles per square meter. meter of plaster “for lighthouses” and plus 160 rubles of putty for painting - what should you pay attention to when working for this money, how many times should they putty according to the rules?
6. Another option was born: the first floor is definitely for painting, and to save money, just plaster and putty the second floor for the same 280 rubles. meter in a compartment, then cover it with non-woven wallpaper for painting on paper based(not vinyl, as they said in the store, non-woven ones “breathe”). Maybe someone has done this and will comment on this idea?
Of course, I wrote a lot, but with the goal of getting competent answers. Thank you all in advance for your help.

One of the popular wall materials used for the construction of private houses is aerated concrete. But despite its fame, very often at the stage of finishing an already built house, fatal mistakes are made, due to which the natural microclimate is disrupted aerated concrete house. And before proceeding to a detailed description of the facade treatment process, you need to understand why such misconceptions arise, how to avoid them, and what facade plaster for aerated concrete should be like.

A little about aerated concrete

To understand finishing issues, let's move a little away from this topic to understand how important it is to do everything correctly and what affects the cladding technology. To do this, you need to plunge into block production technology. And if we briefly summarize its description, then in the finished cement - sand mortar special additives are introduced, the reaction of which results in the formation of a porous structure. If we look at the body of gas silicate concrete in more detail, we will notice not only microvoids, but also many channels dotting them, forming an “open” cellular structure that has a mass positive properties, such as:

• high heat capacity. It is provided not only by the porous body of the blocks, but also by their precise geometry, which allows the use of a minimal connecting seam from a special adhesive composition, preventing the formation of cold “bridges”;
• noise insulation;
• not susceptible to various fungal formations;
• the “open” structure of concrete creates a unique atmosphere indoors - it will remain cool in summer, and in cold period warm. But if this natural vapor permeability system is disrupted, for example, by improperly plastering walls made of aerated concrete, then the house will become stuffy, and condensation will begin to accumulate on the walls, which will lead to the appearance of mold.

But the cellular structure of aerated concrete blocks also has certain disadvantages:

• a high degree of water absorption leads to rapid destruction of walls without the possibility of restoration. Therefore, waterproofing is given Special attention;
• the structure, consisting of open pores, is very well ventilated, which makes the house quite cold, even despite good system heating;
• heterogeneity of the body of the blocks, even the most high density makes them susceptible to mechanical stress, which is imprinted in the form of large chips and potholes.

But is it necessary to plaster aerated concrete blocks or is it necessary to install a more thorough cladding? Of course, the ventilated facade system is perfect option for decorative protection of walls, but if you choose what is best to plaster aerated concrete on the outside and follow the technology, then this finishing method will be no less effective.

When is the best time to plaster gas silicate walls?

Aerated concrete belongs to the family of cellular concrete, so it has some of its general properties, namely shrinkage. This phenomenon is inevitable, and if finishing is done earlier than six months later, then cracking is inevitable.

But as we remember, aerated concrete does not like water, so immediately after erecting the walls, they need to be treated with a deep penetration primer, which reduces water absorption. To be on the safe side, you can cover the walls with polyethylene.

The rest of the plastering is best done in the summer, but if the planned finishing occurs during a colder period of the year, then it can be carried out when the temperature at night does not drop below 0 0 C.

The quality of an erected aerated concrete structure directly depends on the sequence of finishing the interior and exterior of the building. Let's consider possible ways, analyzing their advantages and disadvantages.

Method 1 - parallel plastering inside and outside the house

The production of such finishing is very convenient from a technical point of view and significantly saves time. But if we consider this method from the other side, it is less preferable, since the quality is lost and the characteristics of the newly built house suffer.

Any technology for plastering aerated concrete walls involves significant evaporation of moisture. Of course, most of it will weather away with the help of natural and artificial ventilation, but the bulk of the moisture will be on the walls. Plastering the outside at the same time will clog it for a certain time, which is undesirable.

Method 2 - when exterior finishing is carried out first

It is more logical to initially finish the walls made of aerated concrete from the outside in order to prevent their destruction under the influence of atmospheric conditions. But this is not entirely true; if you do this, the vapors will be directed inward, which is extremely undesirable.

But even primed walls that have overwintered will easily give up moisture and all the vapors in the spring, without destroying the structure. But if a house is built near a body of water, then priorities change, and under such circumstances, you first need to protect the walls from the street from exposure to abundant moisture.

Method 3 - when interior finishing is done first

Of the proposed options, this is the best, because the volume of moisture formed during finishing will freely come out through the unclogged pores of aerated concrete. After the plaster has completely dried, you can safely begin cladding the facade.

Treating the walls with a deep primer using this finishing method will not interfere with the removal of excess moisture.

Which mixture is preferable as facade plaster?

The building materials market is replete with a huge range of plaster mixtures intended directly for processing aerated concrete. If you believe the manufacturers, then they are all the best in their field. But this is far from true. The characteristics of the main groups of plaster compositions summarized in the table will help you decide.

Type of plaster	Advantages	Flaws
Silicone mixtures based on silicon-organic polymers	resistance to water absorption; does not deteriorate under the influence of precipitation; high level of vapor permeability; easy to apply	high price
Silicate plaster based on liquid adhesive glass	hydrophobicity; low water absorption	not aesthetic appearance after dust settles; limited choice of colors
Acrylic mixture	high strength; good decorative qualities	flammability; low vapor permeability. But this can be corrected by using enhanced protection against moisture and organizing a powerful ventilation system for the room.
Mineral plaster: lime-sand; cement-sand	resistance to temperature changes; good adhesion; resistance to cracking; vapor permeability; low cost	does not have high decorative qualities

All vapor-permeable plaster, except mineral, are available in the form ready mixture. In this regard, studying the characteristics various types pay attention to setting time. The longer it is, the easier it will be for beginners to apply the mixture.

But still, preparing a conventional cement plaster composition is much more profitable from an economic point of view. Therefore, all inexperienced builders are tormented by the question: “is it possible to plaster aerated concrete with cement mortar?” The answer is clear - no, for the following reasons:

• low adhesion to gas silicate surface;
• high humidity, which is detrimental to such cellular walls;
• low coefficient of vapor permeability, which will not allow moisture to escape.

Some craftsmen even manage to mix concrete mortar with the plaster mixture in pursuit of profit. But instead they get a bunch of problems and the need for big ones Money to correct the consequences.

Independent finishing of the facade with plaster

There is nothing tricky about how to plaster aerated concrete as competently as possible. Then it's a matter of technology. Plastering can be carried out using several technologies:

• thin layer;
• thick-layer.

There is no particular difference between them; the choice is yours, depending on which method will be more convenient for applying the plaster.

Preparation

In both cases, before finishing, you need to prepare the base.

Stage 1. The walls are cleaned of dirt with a stiff brush.

Stage 2. Defects masonry joints are eliminated with an adhesive composition.

Stage 3. If there are potholes in the blocks, they also need to be “patched” with the same masonry adhesive or polyurethane foam.

Stage 4. Beacons are mounted on the nails - profiles along which the alignment will take place.

Stage 5. The base of the walls is primed with a hydrophobic composition with a surface 2–3 mm thick.

Stage 6. After it has dried, a composition for 5 mm reinforced fabric is applied.

Stage 7. A reinforcing mesh (fiberglass or metal) is attached to the walls with an overlap of 5 cm. It is better to do this with mortar rather than with self-tapping screws. Since in the first case, the mesh will become one with the wall and, accordingly, will “sit” together with the aerated concrete, preventing the appearance of small cracks in the plaster layer. Using the same principle, they are installed and secured plastic corners. Only after the reinforcing plaster has dried can you continue.

Thick-layer surface plaster

When plastering using this technology, it means applying one layer sufficient to perfectly level the wall - at least 10 mm.

Stage 1. Dilute the plaster mixture in a small amount.

Stage 2. The composition is thrown onto the walls.

Stage 3. The rule is to level the plaster along the beacons.

Stage 4. After plastering the entire surface of the walls, wait until it is completely dry and only then can you paint if desired.

Thin layer surface plaster

Plastering walls using multilayer technology is also not difficult and is more suitable for beginners.

Stage 1. The first layer is applied 3-4 mm over aerated concrete. Only after it has completely dried can you continue.

Stage 2. The applied plaster is considered leveling, so special attention must be paid to evenness. Again we wait for complete drying - about 3-4 days.

Stage 3. The final step is to cover the finishing surface, which can later be rubbed down if necessary.

Stage 4. After the previous application has dried, the walls can be painted.

To increase the service life of the plaster, you need to treat it with a water-repellent solution. It will extend the life of the plastered surface almost twice. The use of such compositions is especially important in areas with high humidity.

As you can see, plastering walls yourself is not that difficult. In the first 10 m2 you will develop your own style of application, after which the process will go much faster.

Aerated concrete is a popular construction material, from which strong, durable, warm and resistant to different negative impacts buildings. It has an acceptable cost, and construction with its help can be done by hand even by beginners. After building a house, you need to decide what materials will be used for finishing works. Initially, the walls are covered with high-quality plaster, so it is important to understand how to plaster aerated concrete outside and inside the house, as well as how to do this work correctly.

Important! It is not allowed to be used for external or internal work. the same material, since it is important that the resulting coatings are resistant to the existing operating conditions, and they differ significantly on the street and inside the house.

Types of plaster for aerated concrete

There are numerous types of plasters on the market. Not all varieties are suitable for aerated concrete, so the parameters of each material must first be studied, after which it is selected the right option for external use or for internal work.

Important! Plaster for external use must have high thermal insulation parameters, resistance to moisture and temperature changes, and at the same time must provide good sound insulation and have an attractive appearance.

There are several most popular plasters used for aerated concrete. Each option has its own characteristics, so it is important to study the parameters of any type before making a specific choice.

Cement plaster

This material is considered in demand for carrying out different types works, but it is considered unsuitable for aerated concrete. This is due to the fact that it produces smooth walls, on which cement mortar does not adhere well. Also, aerated concrete has a specific feature of absorbing moisture from the solution. Cement plaster has a vapor permeability that is lower than that of walls, so if it is used for finishing work, the microclimate established in residential premises can significantly deteriorate.

Also cement mortar It has a low adhesion rate to aerated concrete surfaces. Lime is often added to the composition to increase this parameter. If, nevertheless, this particular material is chosen for external work, then a special finishing layer must be applied after the plaster has dried, which allows you to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.

Important! If the vapor permeability of aerated concrete is impaired, this can cause various cracks, mold or traces of seams.

Adhesive intended for aerated concrete

There is a special adhesive mixture on the market designed for application to walls made of aerated concrete. She has optimal composition to work with this material, however, its main purpose is to connect individual blocks, so it is used at joints.

Material being applied thin layer, therefore not considered suitable for forming the outer layer on aerated concrete walls. It won't be possible to make the best out of it. protective covering, and its cost is considered quite high, so it is not advisable to use it for these purposes.

Gypsum plaster for aerated concrete

This material has many advantages for use on aerated concrete walls. Its advantages include:

• quick drying, so after the layer has hardened you can quickly begin subsequent finishing work;
• the coating does not shrink;
• with proper application of plaster on aerated concrete, the formation of a perfectly smooth surface is guaranteed;
• due to High Quality of the material there is no need to apply a finishing coat after the layer has dried.

But this material is not without certain significant drawbacks. These include:

• not very good vapor permeability ();
• To obtain a high-quality mixture, you need enough a large number of water;
• if moisture or snow gets on a coating that is not protected by any additional layer, it quickly gets wet;
• Often unsightly and clearly visible stains appear on surfaces, so for an attractive appearance walls made of aerated concrete require the use of special painting compounds to remove them.

Important! Even with many disadvantages, gypsum mortar is considered suitable for use on aerated concrete walls, but is usually used for interior decoration in rooms with low humidity.

Special facade plaster designed for aerated concrete

There is a special material on the market for walls made of aerated concrete, used for both external and internal use. The advantages of using it for a house built from aerated concrete include:

• good vapor permeability, equal to the vapor permeability of the building material itself;
• excellent appearance of the resulting coating;
• good adhesion to aerated concrete.

It is this material that is most often chosen for finishing aerated concrete buildings. It provides a high-quality, uniform and durable layer with an interesting appearance. But this material has a fairly high cost, so a lot of money is spent on finishing the entire house. For interior walls The use of gypsum mortar is considered optimal.

Competent choice of plaster for aerated concrete walls

When choosing a material intended for plastering aerated concrete walls, the basic requirements and criteria that it must meet are taken into account. To obtain a truly high-quality and optimal coating, the plaster must have:

• good indicator of vapor permeability;
• resistance to low and high temperatures;
• resistance to exposure to significant humidity;
• resistance to the appearance of cracks, mold or other negative factors on the created surface;
• the duration of the viability of the solution, and this factor is most important for people who independently carry out the process of applying plaster, and at the same time do not have experience working with such solutions.

Important! For each buyer additional important parameter is the cost of the solution, and it must correspond to its quality and properties, but it is not recommended to pay attention to the most affordable material, since it will not have optimal properties for use on aerated concrete walls.

When is plaster applied to aerated concrete walls?

Aerated concrete is considered a specific material characterized by good moisture absorption, therefore, immediately after construction of the structure, it is recommended to take care of protecting the walls from exposure to water. Getting the material wet is not considered critical, but the moisture in aerated concrete should not be allowed to freeze, as this can cause cracks or weakening of the walls.

Important! However, you should not rush, since after building a house from aerated concrete, it is recommended to give the material time to dry thoroughly.

Plaster is applied to aerated concrete only in the warm season. If a cement mixture is used in the process, then its drying time is considered significant, and this is due not only to its parameters, but also to the fact that a layer of sufficient thickness is certainly created.

If it is not possible to apply plaster in the warm season, then the walls are certainly covered with a special primer, and it is important to choose a deep penetration agent. The resulting layer reduces the water absorption of aerated concrete. It is permissible to cover the entire structure with polyethylene or other similar material.

From what part of the house does the finishing of the aerated concrete structure begin?

There are several options that determine the sequence of actions necessary to repair a house built from aerated concrete. These include:

• Exterior finishing is carried out initially, and then internal. Experts assure that first of all it is necessary to protect the building from various negative atmospheric factors that can adversely affect the condition of a house made of aerated concrete. It is not permissible for the walls to collect large amounts of moisture. However, on the other hand, in a house closed from the outside, water vapor will accumulate, which will negatively affect the duration of its drying, and difficulties may also arise with interior finishing work. This option is considered preferable for houses built on the banks of various rivers or lakes.
• First, interior finishing work is carried out. This option involves partially closing the pores in the walls of aerated concrete buildings. After interior finishing, it is not allowed to immediately carry out exterior work. The point is that this can lead to aerated concrete blocks A large amount of water vapor will accumulate, so moisture will settle in the walls of the house, which can cause their destruction. Therefore, external finishing of aerated concrete walls is carried out only after the plaster inside the house has completely dried.
• Simultaneous execution of work. This method assumes that both internal and external finishing processes are immediately implemented. This method is considered the least popular, and this is due to the fact that moisture will not have time to leave the aerated concrete blocks.

Important! Although modern quality plasters They have good vapor permeability, they dry for quite a long time, and this is especially important if the finishing of walls made of aerated concrete is planned for the cold season, so it is advisable to leave the process until the warm season.

Technology of interior finishing of aerated concrete walls

Using plaster for the interior decoration of a house built from aerated concrete is a simple and straightforward process. It is divided into successive stages:

• Preparing the base. It is important to eliminate significant irregularities in aerated concrete walls Oh. To do this, they are polished with a plane or a special grater. It is possible to skip this stage, however, during the work you will need a large amount of plaster, which will significantly increase the cost of finishing.
• A high-quality primer is applied. It is not recommended to mix this product with water, as this action will lead to a deterioration in the quality of the material. Before applying the primer, it is necessary to clean the base from dust, for which the walls are washed with plain water. The primer is applied after the aerated concrete walls have completely dried. Selected specific type primers in accordance with the specific room in which you have to work. For standard rooms, which includes a bedroom or living room, you can choose inexpensive and universal material, but for the bathroom or kitchen a blue penetration agent is purchased.
• Installation of beacons. Next stage involves installing beacons on walls made of aerated concrete. They are presented with special metal structures, ensuring a perfectly smooth plaster coating. They are usually installed using a small amount of plaster solution. The distance between them is left in accordance with the width of the rule that will be used to level the solution. Must be used during work building level, guaranteeing evenness of fixation of beacons.
• Preparation of plaster. In the process of creating the solution, you must strictly follow the instructions that are included with the material by the manufacturer. In this case, obtaining an optimal mixture with the desired consistency and homogeneity is guaranteed.
• Applying plaster using the throwing method. It is this method that is used to form the first layer of plaster. The procedure is performed from the bottom up, and the mixture is poured over the entire surface of the base. Next, the resulting layer is stretched using a rule. When voids form, they must be filled with solution. It is important that the material does not peel off, because if this happens, the plaster is removed and then reapplied.
• Processing the resulting layer. This is done only after the mixture has dried. Next, the coating is slightly moistened, for which it is recommended to use a spray bottle. Then it is carefully leveled and the beacons are removed. The resulting empty spaces are filled with plaster.
• High-quality and even corners are created. To obtain an ideal result, special perforated corners made of metal, equipped with mesh on the sides.
• Finishing of aerated concrete walls. After the final drying of the plaster layer, finishing begins. To do this, the walls are covered with paints or other finishing materials.

Thus, the process of plastering aerated concrete walls is a fairly simple process that can be easily performed by every home owner.

Important! Get perfect result work is possible only if you strictly follow the basic rules and observe the correct sequence of actions.

How to plaster aerated concrete walls outside?

Exterior finishing work for a house made of aerated concrete involves creating a fairly thick layer. Therefore, several layers are usually applied at once, and reinforcement is also performed. The whole process is divided into stages:

• walls are prepared from aerated concrete, and this process involves the elimination of large transitions and irregularities, which will have a positive effect on the cost of purchasing finishing materials;
• coating the surface with a primer;
• applying plaster, and the thickness of the first layer should not exceed 5 mm;
• reinforcement of pre-purchased metal mesh, equipped with small cells;
• the layer of plaster is leveled along the fixed mesh;
• a second layer of material is applied after the first has dried, and it is important to pay a lot of attention to proper leveling and obtaining a flat and smooth surface of the aerated concrete walls;
• a third layer is applied, which, if necessary, is rubbed over after drying;
• the resulting coating is painted or covered with textured plaster;
• it is treated with a water repellent, and it is usually applied a year after finishing, and the main purpose of this product is to protect aerated concrete walls from moisture.

Video: plastering aerated concrete

Thus, applying plaster to walls made of aerated concrete is a simple process. It can be easily done both inside and outside the house. To obtain a high-quality result, it is important to carefully study the instructions and strictly follow the sequential steps. To others important point creating an ideal coating for aerated concrete walls is right choice the plaster itself, which must correspond to the operating conditions existing outside or inside the house. The article “” may also be useful.

Aerated concrete is a cellular type of concrete and has a porous structure. Therefore, buildings made of aerated concrete blocks easily absorb moisture. Accordingly, for greater resistance to bad weather, the material requires protection. Among the most common methods is the use of plaster. Let's take a closer look at the features of plastering aerated blocks, where to start, what tools are required, what finishing technologies exist using this method.

Aerated concrete absorbs moisture very well, so it needs to be protected

When to start finishing aerated concrete walls

Basic distinctive feature aerated concrete is its increased hygroscopicity. Moreover, when the building gets wet, when the temperature is above zero, negative consequences you can avoid it - it will simply dry out, everything will be fine, but if water gets into the pores of the stone in winter, it freezes, accordingly, it expands, and cracks may appear.

Considering this, it would seem that the sooner the walls are plastered, the better. But this approach is wrong. It is ideal to carry out these activities for the next season, when the surfaces are completely dry after laying. Drying time depends on what mortar was used for laying. For example, a seam made concrete-sand mixture, will dry longer than where it was used glue mixture, since it turns out to be much thicker.

Plastering is recommended for the next season

Another condition for finishing walls made of aerated concrete, which is recommended to be observed to achieve a high-quality result, is the need to do everything in warm weather. Experts call the optimal time March-October, when the air temperature is above zero. If this is not possible, you must at least coat the stone with a primer, cover plastic film, thanks to which it will stand without losing its properties until the moment full finishing. A deep penetration primer will most effectively reduce water absorption.

But sometimes there is no opportunity to postpone finishing work - it is necessary to carry it out immediately after the completion of the construction of the walls of the building. Here experts recommend paying especially close attention to the composition of the solution. It must have good plasticity and vapor permeability, then moisture can escape freely.

If plastering needs to be done immediately, then you need to carefully select the material

Which side to start finishing a gas block building from?

There are three options for where to start covering aerated concrete block walls. Each has its own characteristics, and only one is considered correct. In particular, you can start:

1. outside;
2. from the inside;
3. simultaneously from both sides.

Experienced builders recommend starting to plaster the outside only when the home is located near bodies of water. The primary task here is to protect aerated concrete from water and wind. Under other circumstances, the method of treating the outside is not suitable - if you plaster the stone with outside, all the moisture will go inside the house, which can cause cracks to appear, and the process of drying the seams at the end of the masonry will be significantly delayed. In addition, the stone itself may begin to deteriorate. Plastering aerated concrete walls indoors will help avoid the above problems - this method is considered the most preferable due to its effectiveness. The third method is considered the most unpopular method of finishing walls made of aerated concrete - despite the good vapor permeability properties, having “blocked” moisture on both sides, it will have nowhere to go, which sooner or later will lead to peeling of the finishing mixture from the block itself, and subsequently even destruction of the latter.

Plastering only needs to be done on one side

Sequence of work

Plastering aerated concrete blocks contains three stages. Before plastering aerated concrete, it is necessary to apply a special primer with a brush or roller, intended for building materials that absorb moisture well. The greatest effectiveness is achieved by applying the solution evenly, that is, there should be no dry spots. After completing this stage, the primer should be absorbed and dry.

At the second stage, a special reinforced mesh, resistant to alkaline components. The mesh is fixed at a certain distance from the stone - there should be free space between them.

The final, third stage is the actual plastering of aerated concrete walls. Here it is important to choose materials whose vapor permeability properties are higher than those of aerated concrete itself. You can increase the service life of the surface while maintaining its attractive appearance after a year by covering it with a water repellent.

The material for plaster should be selected with greater vapor permeability than aerated concrete.

How to plaster - requirements, nuances

Plaster on aerated concrete will be of the highest quality; it will not have to be re-done in a short time if the composition of the mixture meets certain requirements and the packaging contains special markings. Among other things, it should be characterized by:

1. resistance to cracking, drying out, and fading;
2. increased ductility without sacrificing strength;
3. good adhesion to porous types of concrete;
4. water-repellent properties;
5. high level of vapor permeability.

Compliance with such criteria is especially important when used outside the building.

Even taking into account the large number of different types of modern plaster mortars, only a few have these characteristics, so the following are most often used when working on aerated concrete.

Silicone plaster is perfect for finishing aerated concrete outside.

Silicone plaster for aerated concrete has the most advantages. It is resistant to adverse weather conditions, has good vapor permeability, water repellency, and is easy to apply. This type has no disadvantages in operation, except for its high cost, which is nevertheless compensated by the long service life of the coating.

Second place belongs to silicate plaster for aerated concrete, characterized by a suitable level of vapor permeability and low water absorption. Main disadvantages: small color palette plus the loss of the original attractiveness of the appearance of silicate when exposed to dust.

In third place is cement-based plaster with lime. It also has the necessary qualities to cover this type of structure.

Plastering aerated concrete can be done with a cement-based mixture

Often in such houses a gypsum mixture is also used. Its advantages: it dries quickly, subsidence is excluded, there is no need to apply a finishing layer of plaster, in addition, you can make the surface as smooth as possible. However, the solution has its drawbacks. These include average vapor permeability characteristics, susceptibility to rapid getting wet from precipitation, and, in addition, stains may appear during its operation.

In addition, acrylic solutions are used for processing. Their quite significant advantage is strength, but we must also remember the disadvantages - low fire resistance, which is why they are used only in certain premises, relatively low level of vapor permeability. To prevent condensation from accumulating in the pores of aerated concrete, experts recommend using additional ventilation or internal waterproofing.

Having studied the characteristics of all the materials presented, everyone can independently choose how to plaster aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete finishing scheme

Tools used

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete is carried out using tools used when processing other surfaces. Knocking off protruding parts of the walls, making them more smooth, and installing notches where they are needed is done with a plaster hammer or hatchet. The deep penetration primer is applied with a special brush (mack brush). You will also need a plumb line (it helps install beacons for covering the desired surface with the solution), a building level, a square, metal scissors, a hammer drill, a hacksaw, and other standard tools. Regarding beacons, there are several options. The first is to purchase at hardware store specialized metal beacons, fortunately, their choice is now quite wide.

Before you start work, you should prepare everything necessary tools

The second, “old-fashioned” method is to use available means: even blocks of wood, pipe scraps, and other suitable “parts”. Thanks to the beacons, the plane is perfectly flat and the angles are correct. The listed tools will be useful if plastering aerated concrete walls is done manually.

Faster, uniform application can be achieved with special equipment. The method is more financially expensive, but this is fully compensated by the quality of the final result: thanks to plastering under pressure, the bonding of the mortar to the surface of aerated concrete is quite strong.

Plastering by machine a little more expensive

Coating technology

The technology for finishing walls with plaster for aerated concrete is quite simple - it is performed in four steps:

1. preparatory stage, where, before plastering the aerated concrete, it is leveled, thus reducing the consumption of the solution;
2. padding;
3. covering aerated concrete walls with a thin layer of plaster, which will then serve as a base when securing the reinforced mesh;
4. mesh reinforcement (prevents cracks).

For reinforcement, metal or fiberglass mesh is used. Moreover, when installing it, special attention must be paid to windows and doors - places where the load is most significant.

Having secured the mesh, the plane is covered finishing layer plaster, and when the coating dries, the so-called grouting is performed, that is, the surface is eliminated from unevenness, roughness, and other minor defects.

Before plastering aerated concrete, the wall should be leveled

Features of finishing aerated concrete

When starting to cover aerated concrete with plaster mortar, you should take into account the characteristics of this material. First of all, experts recommend avoiding the traditional combination of cement and sand. The corresponding coating may crack and fall off over time, and it also contains a lot of water, which has a destructive influence on the walls themselves.

When plastering gas blocks required condition– the intended purpose of all products is specifically for cellular material.

Experts recommend not to use cement mixtures for finishing aerated concrete

It is important to begin work on the external cladding of the facade when all the “wet” parts have already been completed. interior work, then the formation of condensation inside the walls can be avoided. Moreover, the thickness of the plaster layer inside the building should be twice as large as the outside one, otherwise water vapor will remain inside the blocks and they will become damp. This is the only difference between carrying out this work inside and outside - the technology itself remains unchanged.

If you take into account the recommendations of experts, aerated concrete will last you a long time

Thus, we see: with all its advantages, the building material is still quite finicky and requires special treatment. And so that he preserves his beneficial features, a number of measures need to be taken. But by following the above recommendations, he will prove to be very reliable material, will last a long time, and the home will be cozy and comfortable.

Video: Plastering aerated concrete, preparing the base

Video: Putty and plaster of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a modern building material that resembles foam concrete in structure, but is distinguished by air bubbles located inside. The hollow structure of aerated concrete absorbs moisture well, which requires exterior finishing material. The best way to plaster walls made of aerated concrete is discussed in this article.

For the manufacture of the material the following are used:

• quartz sand is the basis of the mixture;
• lime;
• cement;
• water;
• aluminum powder is added during the manufacturing process of the material. Acts as the main gas generator and gives the material a specific structure.

Advice: When purchasing aerated concrete, you must take into account that the pores of the blocks, unlike foam concrete, are open. This determines the features of its application and finishing.

Comparative characteristics of foam concrete and aerated concrete are presented in the table:

Foam concrete	Aerated concrete
In its structure, air bubbles are not connected to each other, which increases the material’s resistance to getting wet.	The air bubbles are interconnected, allowing moisture to move freely through them.
Good qualities of frost resistance and thermal conductivity.	Gives off heat and freezes from frost.
The inner layer of the plaster layer should be twice as thick as the outer one	The walls should be plastered indoors and then on the façade of the building.
To improve adhesion, the walls need to be cleaned, then thoroughly sanded to remove the top hydrophobic layer. Due to poor moisture absorption, to increase adhesion, the solution is sprayed, and then the base layer is applied.	Higher adhesion rates

When plastering external surfaces of aerated concrete, its high hygroscopicity must be taken into account.

This requires the use of non-standard plasters, which over time will not lead to:

• Cracking of the internal and external surfaces of the building, as in the photo.

• The appearance of traces of masonry after fog or rain, which worsens the visual parameters of the walls.
• Changes in technical specifications.

• Increased indoor humidity.
• Mold appears in the corners of rooms.

For finishing external surfaces, special facade plasters are used. A particular danger for aerated concrete slabs is temperature changes and severe frosts.

During operation, a certain amount of liquid begins to accumulate inside the structures, which will expand when freezing and can greatly damage the structures of the structure. Plastering aerated concrete bases can only be done with mixtures that have good water-repellent properties that do not prevent moisture from evaporating from the walls.

For exterior finishing of aerated concrete, the plaster must have:

• Good adhesion parameters.
• High compressive strength.
• Frost resistance.

Advice: Owners of buildings made of aerated concrete blocks should take into account that external wall finishing is carried out only after all internal facing works. Otherwise, when carrying out “wet” interior finishing work, the walls will absorb a significant amount of moisture, which will subsequently begin to evaporate.

If external facade will be finished before applying the internal plaster; with its intense evaporation, the outer plaster layer will peel off from the surface of the aerated concrete. After finishing the interior of the room, you can clad the outside walls of the house with special compounds that have the highest vapor permeability.

Advice: You cannot plaster facades using standard cement-sand mixtures due to their insufficiently high vapor permeability properties.

Plaster for gas concrete

To decorate the walls, vapor-permeable plaster for aerated concrete is used, which is highly permeable to water vapor, does not get wet, has good adhesion to the surface of the blocks and high frost resistance.

Type of plaster	Features of the material
	Acrylic plasters for aerated concrete are used to strengthen structures with increased load, such as a plinth. Used for interior and exterior decoration of the house. Taken for decorative coating. They retain their color and unchanged texture for a long time. They have good adhesion. Disadvantages of the material: Not too high vapor permeability. Subject to combustion. Tip: When choosing such a material, you must first waterproof the walls.
	The basis of the composition is liquid glass. This is a breathable plaster for aerated concrete. Has low water absorption. Acceptable price. There are many textures that may have: scratches, roughness, pits. They are used for plastering facades and internal walls made of aerated concrete, on the material itself and insulating elements for it. Disadvantages: small selection color range, loss of appearance due to the settling of dust and dirt on the surfaces of the walls.
	Silicone plaster for aerated concrete is made on the basis of silicon-organic polymers. It is highly resistant to harmful atmospheric influences. It practically does not get wet, the mixture is hydrophobic. Has high vapor permeability. Easy to apply. Such plastering mixtures for aerated concrete do not lose their pleasant appearance for a long time. Disadvantage: high cost, but over time, it will most likely pay for itself. In this case, it is appropriate to remember that the miser pays twice.
	Advantages of the composition: Dries quickly. Does not shrink. You can make a smooth surface. No need to apply a finishing coat. Disadvantages of gypsum plaster: Not very good vapor permeability. Gets wet quickly in rain or snow. Spots appear on the surface that need to be painted over.

Lime-cement plaster

All necessary properties inherent in the lungs thin-layer plasters, specially created for finishing aerated concrete surfaces. An example of such plaster would be Baumit HandPutz for DIY wall finishing, produced in bags weighing 25 kilograms.

Basics of it physical properties are given in the table:

Indicator name	Its meaning
Grit size, mm	1
Strength of material in bending, tensile, N/mm2	≥0,5
Compressive strength of the composition, N/mm²	≥3,5
Vapor permeation resistance coefficient μ,	15
Thermal conductivity coefficient λ, W/mK	0,8
Density of the mixture in dry form, kg/m³	1600
Liquid consumption, liter/bag	6-7
Mixture consumption (with applied layer thickness 1 cm), kg/m²	15
Minimum plaster layer, mm	5
Maximum layer of plaster, mm	20

Tip: Before plastering aerated concrete with this plaster, you need to spray the previously cleaned wall surface with Baumit Vorspritze solution.

Material selection

To choose which plaster is best for plastering aerated concrete walls, you need to purchase plaster composition, satisfying the characteristics:

• good vapor permeability;
• the optimal volume of liquid for mixing the mixture: per kilogram of mixture - no more than 0.2 liters of water;
• certain values ​​of the minimum and maximum thickness of plaster application;
• good adhesion with a base of at least 0.5 MPa;
• resistance to negative temperatures;
• high resistance to cracking;
• long viability of the mixture, the larger it is, the easier it is to work with the solution, especially for beginners.

Procedure for plastering aerated concrete walls

Before starting work, it is better to familiarize yourself with the video in this article.

Advice: Building blocks from cellular concrete Quite smooth with almost invisible seams. There is no need to use plaster mortars to level surfaces. It is enough to apply only a thin layer of the mixture.

The instructions for plastering walls suggest the following procedure:

• Surface primer. A composition specially designed for aerated concrete, the surface of which actively absorbs moisture, is applied with a brush or roller.

• A reinforcing mesh is mounted, which is attached to the surface with self-tapping screws (see How to attach a plaster mesh to a wall).

• The walls are finished with a thin layer of plaster.

Correctly selected plaster mixtures for aerated concrete blocks allow you to make your home not only beautiful, but also warm, retaining all its positive characteristics for a long time.