U polypropylene pipes There are a number of advantages, not the least of which are low cost and ease of installation. You can additionally save on installation if you do it yourself in a private house using polypropylene pipes.

Differences between polypropylene and metal:

• good thermal insulation properties (metal, as is known, is a heat conductor);
• plasticity - the material resists freezing/thawing well;
• non-corrosion, chemical resistance;
• ease of processing - soldering polypropylene is easier than welding metal;
• Pipe sections are connected mainly by soldering. Fittings, threads and other mechanical connections are reduced to a minimum. Thanks to this, the pipeline is less prone to leaks and can be installed hidden;
• In terms of price, the material is comparable only to ferrous metal, but is much better in terms of performance characteristics. Stainless steel and copper are much more expensive.

Polypropylene pipes have installation limitations. Because it is extremely permissible temperatures lower than that of metal and even metal-plastic, polypropylene cannot be tied directly at the connection with.

It cannot be used for installing a chimney () and supply pipe. Please check when purchasing temperature indicators: they must correspond to the design values ​​for your heating system made of polypropylene pipes in a private house.

Pipe size selection

The cross-section of the pipeline depends on the heating scheme in a private house made of polypropylene pipes. If you plan to make heating in a private house from polypropylene pipes without a pump (), the diameter should be chosen larger: the absence of artificial injection of coolant in the system is compensated by an increase in the volume of passing water.

Since the connection of polypropylene pipes with metal ones during the installation process is inevitable, and in some cases it is necessary to connect them with metal-plastic ones.

Please note the standard diameter combinations:

• metal-plastic 2 cm (section) by 2 mm (wall thickness) – polypropylene 2.5 ( outside diameter) by 4.2;
• metal-plastic 1.6 by 2 – PP 2 by 3.4;
• metal 2.6 by 3 – PP 3.2 by 5.4.

If the distribution is two-pipe from the main line, a 2 by 3.4 PP pipe is used. For heating systems, pipes with a cross-section from 1.6 centimeters to 11 are used, control valves for batteries - up to 1.2 inches.

The maximum length of the circuit at which heating is effective is 25 meters with a boiler power of up to 12 kilowatts. With a pipe size of 2 by 3.4, such a circuit serves 6 radiators of 10 sections each. If a larger length is required, the pipe cross-section can be increased to 3.2 by 5.4. But it is better to make a second circuit or use beam routing (see below).

Directly near the batteries, thinner pipes are used than in the main line. Connections are made using “American” ones.

Wiring options

Heating schemes in a private house made of polypropylene are the same as those made of other materials: one-pipe, two-pipe, collector. Single-pipe is the least efficient; it can only be used in small houses or in short circuits: one pipe passes sequentially through all radiators and returns to the boiler as a return.

On the way, the coolant cools down. Even using regulators on batteries, uniform heating cannot be achieved.

Two-pipe - separate branches for supply and return. The efficiency is higher, but the main problem is the same. The best option For big houses– collector (radial) wiring: from the distribution manifold, supply and return pipes diverge in rays to individual devices or mini-circuits (). Innings hot water to sections occurs simultaneously.

The wiring can be top or bottom. In the first case, the main line is located in the attic, from which risers descend to devices or individual circuits. There must be an air vent valve in the attic. This option is used in systems with natural circulation (without a pump), and is also recommended for cottages with more than one floor (). With bottom wiring, the main is located under the floor, and the risers go upward from it.

Important nuances of installing polypropylene

How to properly heat a private house made of polypropylene? Directly near the boiler, the pipes should be metal and so should the fittings. You cannot install a plastic faucet; it will quickly wear out and leak. You can install a bronze tap and a threaded adapter, and then a polypropylene pipe.

The pipeline should be connected to the boiler through an American connection. When installing a distribution manifold, it is not recommended to install plastic taps next to the outlet tees, otherwise if the tap breaks, the entire assembly will have to be remade.

Before heating a private house with your own hands from polypropylene, draw up a diagram of the living area and tie each wiring element to it. Access to parts of the system must be free in case of repair, shutdown, or replacement.

The dirt filter is placed only on a horizontal section with the “head” down (for easy cleaning). Shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the filter so that water does not have to be drained from the circuit for cleaning.

The distance between adjacent pipes must be at least 5 centimeters. The pipes are attached to the wall with gaps between the supports, the size of which depends on the cross-section of the pipe and its type (reinforced, unreinforced). For ordinary pipe with a cross section of 2 cm, the step is 60 cm, for reinforced - 1.2 meters. With a diameter of 5 cm - 1.2 and 1.9, respectively.

Before you make heating in a private house from polypropylene yourself, take into account the peculiarity of PP pipes - the linear expansion of the material is equal to 0.15. When heated, the length of the pipeline increases, this leads to its deformation.

When the length of a solid section is more than 5 meters, it is necessary to install a compensator. You can make a compensator from bends at right angles (U-shaped) or use a ready-made polypropylene loop (the so-called “kalach”).

Due to thermal expansion, a significant part of the supports for PP pipes are made movable (plastic clips). If the compensator is U-shaped, movable supports are mounted on both sides of the bends. Further, on straight sections - motionless, on the crossbar the letter P is also motionless.

Likewise for “kalach”. When expanding, the shape of the compensator “elbow” changes, and the line does not deform. Compensators are placed strictly with the loop down to avoid airing.

Installation procedure

Before installing the system, the pipes must be brought into workroom so that they “acclimatize”. The main action in the process of installing heating in a private house from polypropylene pipes with your own hands is soldering (welding polypropylene).

It’s not difficult to get comfortable with a soldering iron, but you need to connect heated parts quickly (10 seconds maximum) and not overheat them. The heating time depends on the pipe cross-section: 1.6 - 5 seconds, 4 - 12, 7.5 - 30. Connection time - 4, 6 and 10 seconds, respectively. The diameter of the soldering iron nozzle corresponds to the cross-section of the pipe.

How to install heating in a private house made of polypropylene:

1. Draw up a wiring diagram.
2. Make markings on the walls for each area. Select suitable fittings.
3. Determine the required welding time.
4. Mark and cut pipes. The cut is performed strictly perpendicular to the axis.
5. Wipe the sections with alcohol and remove dirt with a dry cloth.
6. Degrease the nozzle, install horizontally, heat to 265?.
7. Place the pipe and fitting into the heater, heat it up, remove it, and insert it into each other.
8. After cooling, secure the area to the wall with clips.

Boiler, pump, heating devices, expansion tank() and control equipment are installed in accordance with the instructions for them.

Video about a heating device made of propylene with your own hands.

Inexpensive and technologically advanced heating option- plastic pipes.

They are durable, easy to install and inexpensive. A well-welded polypropylene system can serve 30-60 years without repair, but there are factors that significantly reduce service life and reliability.

This excessive temperature, pressure, prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. Polypropylene pipes should not be used when connecting a solid fuel boiler, on steam lines, in contact with hot metal, or in heating systems of multi-apartment high-rise buildings.

Types of polypropylene pipes

The manufacturer makes markings throughout the product. It indicates the type of material, nominal pressure, operating temperature, diameter, wall thickness, ultraviolet protection .

Depending on the wall material, pipes are distinguished:

• Monolithic. They are used to transport liquids at low pressure and temperature. Used for water supply and irrigation systems. Denoted as PPH, PPB. Nominal pressure PN15, PN 20.
• Random copolymer. They are used in water supply systems and in organizing low temperature heating- warm floor. Designated PPR. Nominal pressure PN20 - PN 25.
• Heat-resistant reinforced - PPS. The strength of such pipes is higher than metal-plastic, and they are used in heating systems. Nominal pressure PN 25. Withstands temperature 95 °C, used in any heating systems of private houses.
• Reinforced. The walls of polypropylene pipes can be made either from monolithic polypropylene or reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil. Reinforcement is needed to increase strength, durability and reduce linear expansion.

Important! In heating systems, the most versatile and widely used are composites - glass fiber reinforced products.

How to solder a heating system

Huge advantage polypropylene pipes - ease and manufacturability of docking. The connection is uniform and monolithic. Each type of pipe is connected using its own technology

End connection

Applicable for main pipes large diameter . They are soldered using heated air and a filler rod. The process is similar to welding metal with an electrode.

An irresponsible joint can also be obtained with small diameters by heating the ends up to 270 °C and joining the pipes. This method is not used, since the joint is weak, porous, and leaks are possible.

Electrofusion connection

Applicable for high-quality connections of high-pressure pipelines. The ends of the connections are cleaned and compressed with casing clamps. A coupling with electric heaters already sealed in it is installed at the joint. The clamps are loosened, a fixing and centering clamp is put on. A permanent connection is connected to the coupling contacts. electricity. Voltage, current and heating time are indicated on the coupling. After heating, the joint cools down, after which it is ready for use.

Socket soldering

Used for small diameters - up to 62 mm. To connect, you will need factory-made shaped elements: adapters, tees, couplings, taps, fittings, turns.

For soldering you will need: soldering iron with Teflon tips, pipe cutters, clean rags, degreaser, ruler and pencil.

We end the pipes to be connected in required size using spring scissors. When measuring it is left margin 8-10 mm for the joint.

Photo 1. The process of socket soldering of polypropylene pipes. A special soldering iron is used for this.

Degrease and clean the ends and seats in the fitting. Dirt, grease and water interfere with the welding of polypropylene; a sealed, reliable joint will not work.

At the end of the pipe, mark the depth of the seat in the fitting. A few millimeters reserve for excess plastic.

If a pipe reinforced with aluminum foil is welded, we use a special “sharpener”, it will evenly cut the reinforcement, and the joint will be reliable.

Attention! Surface of welded polypropylene must be clean and dry. We use rags and degreaser. Be sure to remove water in case of repairs or alterations to the system.

Heat the soldering iron to temperature 260-280 °C. We attach the pipe and coupling with non-Teflon tips, hold 5-7 seconds. After heating, we connect the joint and fix it for 10-15 seconds.

Polypropylene is welded into a monolith during heating. Therefore, it is not worth adjusting the position, tightening or pressing - the joint will turn out to be of poor quality.

If the inside of the fitting overheats, plastic residue may narrow or even block the fitting.

Space is left in the mounting socket for excess plastic 2-3 mm.

Therefore, the marking stage is also important.

The cooled joint can be used immediately.

The connection gains strength as it cools.

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Polypropylene for heating

Polypropylene pipes are used for transportation coolant liquid from the boiler to the battery heat exchangers. When designing a heating system, you should pay attention to:

• Diameter. The larger the cross-section, the lower the hydrodynamic resistance and the further the coolant can be supplied.
• Material. For a “warm floor”, it is enough to use cross-linked polyethylene; for the installation of radiator heating, a fiberglass-reinforced pipe for hot water is used; for piping the boiler, it is better to use a heat-resistant one. PPS pipe. The piping of a solid fuel boiler is made of metal.
• Length of straight pipeline sections. Polypropylene has a disadvantage - linear expansion. When heated, the length of the pipe changes. Therefore, you should not strictly fix corner connections, and on long straight sections, design compensation loops and bends.

Polypropylene is used in any heating system.

It is suitable for both battery systems and heated floors.

Polypropylene is not suitable for use in systems with overheated coolant ( above 95 °C) or high pressure ( above 10 atmospheres).

How to make a heating system in a private house with your own hands

There are a large number of heating systems. Each system has its own characteristics and is used to solve specific tasks. When choosing, you should pay attention to the following initial data:

• Number of storeys and area of ​​the house. To heat several floors, complex systems are used that calculate hydrodynamic resistance. A distribution system with a riser, a “Tichelman loop,” is suitable. For one-story building a simple layout will be optimal single pipe system"Leningradka", simple system lower spill.
• Layout and aesthetic considerations. To prevent pipes from being damaged appearance walls and do not interfere with the installation of furniture, you can design decorative screens for the upper spill, hide the lower spill in the walls or floor screed. Pipes should not pass under doors and should not interfere with walking. Heat is evenly distributed throughout the heated room.
• Energy dependence. If your home experiences frequent and prolonged power outages, it is better to design a gravity system with an open expansion tank. If there are no power outages, use a more efficient closed system with membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. Pipes may be of smaller diameter.
• Power. Depends on the heat loss of the house. The greater the power of the system, the larger the diameter of the pipes to facilitate coolant circulation.

Installation tools

To assemble the system you will need an inexpensive and accessible set of accessories.

• Tools for working with polypropylene. This is a soldering iron, pipe cutter, rags, ruler, pencil, degreaser. To remove aluminum reinforcement, you will need a reamer of the appropriate diameter.

Photo 2. Special soldering iron for connecting polypropylene pipes. The device has two holes different diameters.

• Set of plumbing accessories- open-end and adjustable wrenches, fum tape, pliers.
• Kit construction tools: hammer drill, grinder, foam gun, mixer.

Stages of work, heating design diagram

The heating system is assembled in successive logical steps.

• Marking the installation of the boiler and batteries. Radiators are placed at the entrance and under windows to create proper convection currents in the room. The boiler can be installed in a boiler room; some types can be placed near any external wall.
• Determination of pipe locations. We definitely design compensation loops - the length of polypropylene pipes changes when heated.
• Hanging the boiler and its piping. If necessary, we connect water and gas to it. It is better to make the piping of a solid fuel boiler from metal. The gas boiler is connected with polypropylene pipes with heat-resistant characteristics.
• With a collector system, we connect the “comb” - distributor. If the system is two-three-arm, you can get by with tees.
• Install expansion tank and a security group. The volume of the expansion tank is calculated based on the volume of water in the system.
• We fix fasteners to the floor or wall. If the system is with gravitational circulation, we observe the slopes.
• We install pipes and connect batteries.
• After installation is completed, we pressurize the system. We disconnect the batteries and plug all the outputs. We supply air under pressure 8-10 atmospheres. If fistulas are identified, we eliminate them.
• We connect the batteries, boiler, expansion tank.
• Fill in water system, remove air from top points.
• We are conducting a trial run. We pay attention to pipes, joints, and connection points. We check the uniformity of heating of the batteries.
• We seal the pipes into a screed, wall or decorative box.

Installation of heating from polypropylene pipes is carried out by diffusion welding of pipes and fittings using a special heating tool - a soldering iron.

A heating system made of polypropylene pipes requires one-time installation, that is, it is non-removable.

The marking of such pipes includes the abbreviation “PP” - for products domestic production or “PN” - in international markets.

Let's consider what types of pipes exist and are suitable for use in heating systems.

The market for polypropylene pipes today is saturated with products from various manufacturers intended for use in various communications. To navigate this diversity, let’s consider their main types.

Categories of polypropylene pipes

Marking	Design features	Scope of application	Maximum working temperature, WITH	Nominal pressure, MPa
PN10	Thin-walled pipe	Cold water supply	+20оС	1 MPa (10.2 kg/cm2)
		Systems heated floors	+45оС	1 MPa (10.2 kg/cm2)
PN20	Universal pipe	Hot water supply	+80оС	2 MPa (20.4 kg/cm2)
PN25	Aluminum foil reinforced pipe	Hot water supply and central heating polypropylene	+95оС	2.5 MPa (25.49 kg/cm2)
PN16 (rare variant)			+60оС	1.6 MPa (16.32 kg/cm2)

Polypropylene pipes for heating external diameters:

• PN10: 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 75, 90, 110 mm;
• PN20: 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 75, 90, 110 mm:
• PN25: 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 75 mm.

Reinforced polypropylene pipes for heating PN25 have a layer of aluminum foil or fiberglass.

Color palette of polypropylene pipes: white and grey, green and black (UV protection).

A heating system made of polypropylene pipes is mounted using fittings various configurations, which both connect propylene pipes for heating to each other and connect the metal parts of the system pipeline with polypropylene units.

Coupling with internal (external) thread, Designed for connecting a polypropylene pipeline with metal pipes.
Straight coupling and elbow (90 O and 45 O). Designed for connecting pipes to each other
Elbow with internal (external) thread. Designed for connecting a polypropylene pipeline with metal pipes.
Tee and crosspiece. Designed for connecting polypropylene pipes to each other.
Tee with internal (external) thread
Elbow with thread and strip for fastening to the wall (water socket). Designed for connecting a tap or mixer.
Tubular “bypass”. Designed to bypass perpendicular pipes when heating a private house made of polypropylene is installed.
Filter - “mud filter” for coarse cleaning

Connection of polypropylene pipes

You can install heating with polypropylene pipes yourself, provided you have the ability to weld polypropylene pipes. As a last resort, minimum requirement in order to mount polypropylene heating there is a “huge” desire to learn how to weld such pipes and fittings.

Types of welding:

• coupling (socket) welding - used when welding two pipes with a diameter of up to 63 mm using a third element - a coupling;
• butt - used for butt welding of large diameter pipes and involves the use of special centering equipment

Sleeve welding of polypropylene parts

Polypropylene heating is usually installed using a manual device for welding polypropylene pipes, which has special attachments: a sleeve and a mandrel.

The sleeve is designed for heating and melting outer surface the end of the pipe, and the mandrel is used to heat and melt the internal socket of the connecting element (coupling).

The diameters of such nozzles must correspond to the diameters of the pipes being welded, and their surface has a Teflon coating, which provides a non-stick effect.

Attention! During the installation of heating systems made of polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to ensure the cleanliness of the surfaces of the heating nozzles, and, if necessary, clean them with wooden sticks from adhered fragments of polypropylene.

Important! The surfaces of the nozzles can only be cleaned when they are hot!

To operate the welding machine, the necessary attachments are installed, and it is placed on flat surface for “stationary” welding.

If it is necessary to perform work “on the wall,” the attachments are attached to the edge of the heating element of the soldering iron.

For polypropylene pipes optimal temperature welding - 260 o C. Before starting work, the device must be warmed up for 10-15 minutes.

Attention! It is contraindicated to weld polypropylene pipes at ambient temperatures below 0 °C.

Socket welding of parts to each other is carried out in the following sequence:

Use a pipe cutter or scissors to cut the pipe at a right angle.

If the end of the pipe or fitting is dirty, clean it, degrease it with soapy water or alcohol and dry it.

If PN 10 or PN 20 pipes are welded, then we skip this step and immediately move on to the 4th.

To weld reinforced pipes of type PN 25, you must first remove the top two layers with a special tool - a shaver: polypropylene and aluminum. The depth of stripping is determined by the depth of the bell seat. Often it corresponds to the depth of processing of the pipe with a shaver.

Place the parts to be welded on heating elements. Heating of the parts being connected occurs simultaneously.

After heating, remove them from the nozzles and quickly connect them without turning them along the axis.

Allow some time for the polymer to harden and cool. Any deformation of the joint during the cooling period is unacceptable.

Attention! If you get an unsuccessful connection, there is only one way to fix it - cutting out the fitting and welding a new one.

Pay attention to the correct positioning when welding ball valves - they have a rotary handle, which in no case should “rest” against a wall or other neighboring object.

We check the appearance of the welded joint, which must meet the following requirements:

• Significant misalignment of pipes is not allowed;
• the surface of the socket (coupling) must not have cracks or other defects;
• near the edge of the coupling of the part welded to the pipe, a continuous strip should be visible, located along the entire circumference of the bead of melted material, which should protrude beyond the end surface of the connecting part.

Butt welding

Butt welding is performed using special equipment and is used for polypropylene pipes with a wall thickness of more than 4 mm and a diameter of 50 mm or more. We will not consider this issue in detail in the context of this article.

Welding polypropylene pipes and your health

At welding work When dealing with polypropylene pipes, for greater safety of your health, you must follow a number of these rules:

1. carry out work in a ventilated area;
2. remember that a welding tool is a power tool that requires compliance with safety precautions when working with it;
3. do not allow polypropylene to come into contact with open fire, which can cause the formation of a melt with the release of carbon dioxide, water and other gaseous products that are far from useful for human inhalation.

Welding saddles to the finished heating system pipeline

If after installation work or during repairs existing system heating there is a need to create some additional branch from the pipeline, you can use the method of welding saddles. This method is also used to connect a smaller diameter pipeline without special adapters to a larger diameter pipeline.

A distinction is made between a welded seat and a welded seat.

Installation of a welded seat involves the use of a special drill-mill to prepare the seat

The process of welding or welding the seat:

1. Preparation of welded surfaces - clean, degreased, dry.
2. For a welded seat using a cutter, prepare seat. When installing a fitting to an aluminum-reinforced polypropylene pipe, it is necessary to “go through” the foil layer with a milling cutter to ensure larger area contact of welded surfaces.
3. Warming up the welding machine to a temperature of 260 ° C.

The process of properly welding such elements involves the use of special semicircular heating sleeves on the welding machine.

Their absence may create additional difficulties during installation, but with some skill you can heat up the surfaces to be welded with ordinary nozzles of a suitable diameter, although... Who will guarantee the quality of the connection?

1. Heating of the pipe surface continues for approximately 25-30 s, while at the same time (about 20 s) the surface of the welded seat is heated.
2. Having removed the welding tool, quickly press the saddle against the heated section of the pipe in one motion and fix the connection for 30 s. After 7-10 minutes this saddle is suitable for further “assembly operation”.
3. If a welded seat is used, after its installation, it is necessary to drill a hole in the pipe at the landing site using a twist drill of a suitable diameter. In this case, it is necessary to avoid chips getting into the pipe, and also control the drilling depth so as not to damage the opposite wall of the pipe.

Features of installation of polymer pipelines

When installing heating from polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of such material along the longitudinal axis.

Pipeline installation is usually carried out at an ambient temperature of 15-30 o C, and the temperature of the coolant in these pipes during operation of the heating system can reach quite high values ​​(up to 95 o C - 110 o C in closed-type heating systems).

This means that unreinforced polypropylene pipes can change their size by 10-12 mm for each linear meter of pipe. For reinforced polypropylene pipes this value is 2.4-2.6 mm. With a significant total length of the heating system pipe, its expansion (lengthening-constriction) will be significant (for a five-meter pipeline, another plus 60 mm).

Therefore, when installing long lines of heating systems, it is necessary to use pipes reinforced with aluminum foil. In underfloor heating systems, it is also possible to use unreinforced pipes if they are laid in concrete screed, but preference is still given to reinforced options.

Attention! If you do not want the pipes to heat the walls and floor slabs when installing heating with polypropylene pipes, they must be placed in a “clothing” of polyurethane foam “casings”, which will play a double role: both a heat insulator and a shock-absorbing material.

Fastening of polyurethane pipelines is carried out using movable and fixed support mounts.

To compensate for the linear expansion or contraction of pipes in heating systems, various techniques are used: fastening the pipeline to rigid (fixed) and movable supports, as well as creating compensation sections (compensators) of the pipeline.

Rigid supports require the pipe to be fixed in them. This makes it possible to divide the entire heating system into certain compensation sections, each of which must have a compensation “mechanism”.

Movable supports play a supporting role and allow the pipe to move in them during its linear temperature deformation. When diverting a pipe from a riser, it is very important to take into account its thermal expansion due to its significant overall length. For this purpose, the “free withdrawal” technique is used.

The polypropylene heating scheme must also “take into account” the possibility of elastic bending of the pipeline during linear extension of the riser. Laying pipes in channels and shafts involves installing rigid fastening points at a distance of up to 3 m. And for thermal expansion, or rather its compensation, use linear elongation compensators. Usually these are L-shaped or U-shaped compensation elements.

The heating scheme from polypropylene pipes involves the “automatic” creation of U-shaped and L-shaped expansion joints when the pipeline bypasses walls, corners, columns and other building elements.

Attention! In long trunk lines, it is imperative to plan the installation of compensation elements.

This compensation installation option - “snake”, is mainly used for coiled metal-plastic pipes. Usually they are mounted in closed niches and are not completely straightened. The loss of aesthetic appearance (it is still closed from human view) makes it possible to create natural compensators for linear extensions.

Let's summarize! The heating system made of polypropylene pipes is an elastic system that requires its correct fastening and fastening into a fixed support.

When heating made of polypropylene is “hidden” in the walls it is necessary:

• leave in the wall under the plaster on vertically and horizontally located areas with tees and elbows leave free space 3-5 cm;
• to compensate for the linear expansion of pipes in the axial direction, it is necessary to provide a distance from the pipe turn to the obstacle of at least 10 mm for each meter of length of a given straight section of the pipe;
• when installing pipes in grooves, their size should be at least 70-80% larger than the diameter of the pipe, and the pipe itself can be laid in tubular insulation (foamed polyethylene or polyurethane):
• with this installation, “centering” supports can be created from polyurethane foam, positioning and fixing the pipe evenly in the center of the groove;
• The groove is not plastered over, but is covered with an overlay plate;
• It is also possible to lay such pipes in a corrugated pipe sleeve.

Based on the above, we repeat once again: for laying hot water supply and heating pipelines, it is better to use reinforced pipes for all types of installation - open or closed in a groove, niche or under plaster. It is much easier to use a reinforced pipe than to use a cheaper non-reinforced one and come up with a lot of tricks to make it expand in temperature.

When a pipeline passes through building construction it is necessary to use plastic or metal sleeves with a diameter 5-10 mm larger than the pipe diameter. The gap is filled with a soft elastic material, which prevents the penetration of moisture and sounds through the sleeve and “allows” the longitudinal “temperature” movement of the pipe relative to the sleeve.

Approximate diagram of heating from polypropylene pipes

IN climatic zone In Russia, the presence of a heating system is necessary in every residential building. Polypropylene pipes are considered the most affordable, reliable and high-quality material for connecting all its main elements.

Many homeowners have minimum experience construction work and special equipment in the form manual welding, will be able to solve the problem with heating their home if they make the heating of a private house from polypropylene with their own hands.

Heating scheme for a private house

Heating system control unit

Before starting installation work with your own hands, you initially think through the entire heating system of a private house using polypropylene, where you must take into account the location:

• boiler;
• radiators;
• expansion tank;
• pipe routing.

In a large private house, for installing a boiler, they usually allocate special room, if the design of the heating equipment involves the removal of combustion products naturally, through the chimney.

The walls of the mini-boiler room are covered with protective fireproof material, which prevents the spread of flame in the event of a sudden fire. In addition to the chimney, the arrangement of this room must meet all fire safety requirements.

The length of polypropylene pipes is calculated taking into account:

• size of rooms;
• turns;
• connections;
• piers;
• floor.

The heating scheme for a private house using propylene can be done with your own hands using one of two main options.

1. With top coolant supply. In this case, the coolant circulates independently inside the pipeline, which is very convenient in case of unexpected failures in the electrical network.
2. With bottom coolant supply. In such a system, the coolant will circulate through the pipelines thanks to a pressure pump. Here, the constructive wiring of polypropylene pipes can be done by hand with various necessary bending and connection options. A system with bottom coolant supply works very well in private multi-storey buildings.

Advantages of a system on polypropylene pipes

Making a heating system for a private house using polypropylene with your own hands is very profitable, since it:

• easy to install;
• reliable;
• durable;
• eliminates leaks;
• economical;
• silent;
• relatively inexpensive.

Polypropylene pipes have excellent throughput over a long period of operation. on their internal surfaces no salt deposits are deposited, and no accumulation of various sediments and deposits is formed. These products are not subject to corrosion processes. They are lightweight, quite durable, and do not break down for decades.

For the heating system of a private house, it is advisable to purchase reinforced polypropylene pipes manufactured by trusted manufacturers.

Installation work

Installation of a two-pipe system

Installing a home heating system on polypropylene with your own hands initially involves a thorough study of this issue and selection of a suitable option.

The best option for arranging a private home would be to choose hydraulic system, since water is the best coolant.

When choosing a boiler, you need to focus on cheap look fuel. The best option there will be gas for him if a gas pipeline is connected to the house. If you use an electric boiler, the cost of heating the house will be significantly higher than with gas boiler. In addition, you will need to additionally lay a special high-power cable here. In the absence of gas and electricity, all that remains is to make a choice in favor of a liquid fuel or solid fuel boiler.

When selecting heating radiators It's better to go with aluminum ones. They heat up quickly, dissipate heat well, and have an excellent appearance.

The best wiring system would be a two-pipe one with forced circulation. It makes heating in a private home comfortable and allows you to regulate the temperature in the rooms.

Tools and materials

After purchasing equipment and polypropylene pipes various diameters, you need to have a set of tools in the form of:

• Scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes.
• Jigsaw with a set of attachments.
• Perforator for punching walls.
• Markers and tape measures.
• Shweider or trimmer.
• Elements wall mount pipes
• Set of connecting fittings.

The nuances of working with polypropylene

Soldering of polypropylene pipes

When starting to install a heating system in a private house using polypropylene with your own hands, you need to consider some subtleties.

1. Polypropylene pipes for installation must be prepared for cutting after large equipment in the form of a boiler, water heater, heating radiators, and expansion tank has been installed.
2. Polypropylene pipes must be cut into separate pieces only using special scissors or a sharp knife, while maintaining a right cutting angle of 90 degrees.
3. By installing additional holders into the heating system, you can eliminate sagging material and ensure reliable fastening.
4. You can work with polypropylene pipes at room temperatures above 5 degrees Celsius.
5. Using fum tape, you can increase the reliability and quality of fitting connections.
6. Before using the welding device, it must be warmed up to the required temperature.
7. When working with polypropylene pipes, their cut reinforced edges must be cleaned of protruding remnants of the metal shell. To do this, you can use a trimmer or a special scraper to remove part of the inner shell and get a flat surface.
8. The edges of the connecting pieces are heated using a special welding machine at a temperature of 250 degrees, depending on the diameter of the pipe, for 5 to 20 seconds, and then immediately joined together.
9. The joining of two parts after heating should be carried out evenly and tightly enough so that later, during operation, unpleasant problems do not arise.
10. Parts fastened by soldering must lie motionless until completely hardened for three minutes.

Conclusion

Today, doing your own heating in a private house using polypropylene pipes is not particularly difficult.

Due to its low cost, ease of installation and reliable performance characteristics, home heating using polypropylene has gained wide popularity among consumers.

This system fully ensures a high level of comfortable living in a private home and a fifty-year operating guarantee.

Hello, dear readers! Installation of heating pipes is a responsible and multi-level process that requires certain knowledge. If you are interested in the topic of home furnishing, this article is for you! Our goal is to consider the main types of pipes used in this process, become familiar with the tools used, and avoid common mistakes, based on the experience of the craftsmen.

The specific operation of heating circuits also determines the characteristics of the lines used. It is the pipelines that ensure the reliable connection of all devices and elements, forming a single system.

Pipes for heating circuits vary according to the manufacturer, raw materials used, and a variety of technical parameters. In the production of pipes for heating networks, various construction materials and their combinations, however, it is customary to distinguish several of their main types.

Plastic

In the production of plastic highways they can be used different kinds polymers: polyethylene, polypropylene, polybutene, polyvinyl chloride and other innovative plasticizers based on polyfinyls. The use of polymer pipelines is justified only in low-temperature, low-pressure circuits.

To give plastic components the necessary strength characteristics, polymers are usually used in their production in combination with some kind of reinforcing component.

Polypropylene

Most thermal systems use reinforced polypropylene pipes. This is due to the fact that polypropylene has a relatively high coefficient of linear expansion when heated. The main reinforcing components are aluminum foil and fiberglass. The main purpose of reinforcement is to prevent pipelines from deforming when heated. Moreover, there is no need for large quantities compensators on extended sections.

Solid or perforated aluminum foil between layers of polypropylene perfectly protects the heating main from destruction under the influence of oxygen and significantly increases its service life.

Cross-linked polyethylene

Another type of plastic pipelines are. The polymer received its name because of the production method in which the process of cross-linking the links of ethylene molecules occurs.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are designated PEx and stands for: PE - polyethylene, and the index “x” indicates cross-linking. Sections made of cross-linked polypropylene bend well and are resistant to mechanical loads, so they are often used when laying hidden heating circuits for heated floors.

Steel

Pipelines from steel pipes are giving way to more progressive and less costly types of organizing heating systems. However, almost everything apartment buildings, industrial and administrative buildings old building have heating systems based on metal pipes.

Steel components of heating networks withstand relatively high pressure and temperature, so in some cases their use cannot be avoided.

In private homes they are used less often, but are excellent for laying main pipelines.

Which pipes are better

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of which material is better. It all depends on the parameters of a particular heating circuit and the capabilities of the developer. If it is better to entrust the design and assembly of the entire heating system to experts in this field, then install small areas You can do it yourself from polyethylene pipes. The undeniable advantages of polymer structures include:

• simplicity of technology for connecting parts;
• no need to use expensive and bulky equipment;
• smooth inner surface;
• the possibility of using water and various antifreezes as a coolant, which practically do not react with polypropylene;
• low cost and long term services.

Steel pipes differ for the better:

• resistance to high temperatures, pressure, ultraviolet exposure and mechanical stress;
• low coefficient of specific expansion;
• Possibility of direct threading.

Installation methods

Joining of pipes from various materials has its own characteristics and nuances. Electric or gas are used to connect steel pipes. welders. Products made of polypropylene are joined by diffusion welding, chemical bonding ( cold welding), and threaded fittings.

The most reliable and inexpensive way to connect polypropylene elements is diffusion welding (soldering) using an electric soldering iron.

Which way is better?

Assembly of systems on metal pipes and carrying out welding work require the use of fairly large equipment and special skills. Soldering and laying plastic lines is much simpler and even amateurs can carry out heating with their help, having previously studied the issue using numerous photo and video materials, many of which are presented on the Internet.

DIY assembly

Fastening heating pipes according to load-bearing structures (open method) with the help of special fasteners can be done quite quickly independently when carrying out repairs.

Quite often, wiring requires cutting walls with laying pipelines into prepared recesses. This method is most often used during the construction phase.

Required tools and materials

For the purpose of installing heating, welding generators, various types of soldering irons, sets of adjustable wrenches, and sealing materials for threaded connections (tow, fumlente, paste) can be used. Joining metal-plastic parts and cross-linked polypropylene pipes may require special crimping tools. The most cost-effective way to lay heating pipes is to connect polypropylene pipes. The only special equipment required is a soldering iron with nozzles of 20, 25, and 32 sizes, which can be purchased for 1000-1500 rubles.

When using foil-reinforced pipes, a shaver may be needed to clean the ends, the cost of which does not exceed 700 rubles.

Drawing and diagrams

Heating is always based on preliminary calculations with drawing up plans and diagrams. Design determines all subsequent technological operations, therefore this stage should be treated with special attention.

At the design stage, it is necessary to decide on the wiring diagram, which can be one- or two-pipe, horizontal or vertical, dead-end or with counter-movement of the coolant. Quite popular in low-rise construction is the wiring diagram, called “Leningradka”.

Work order

All installation work must be done in stages. Each stage corresponds to a certain preparation, including calculations, acquisition of parts, and marking of the elements to be connected. To connect polypropylene thermal sections it is necessary:

• cut and strip parts of the pipeline to the required length and prepare fittings;
• required diameter;
• heat the soldering iron to a temperature of 260 degrees. Celsius;
• for a few (5 to 9 seconds) seconds, place the pipe and the element to be connected on the appropriate nozzle in order to melt the polyethylene layer;
• combine the elements and compress until they “set” when cooling;
• Connect the sections to the installed heating equipment, and secure them firmly using fasteners.

Installation video

Here are some good videos with examples of the work of masters:

Installation features

When installing pipes of different diameters, it is important to avoid connections in which the movement of the coolant is difficult and maintain the distance between the pipes. Otherwise, everything depends on the project, equipment characteristics and components used.

Main mistakes

All stages of organizing heat supply must be carried out with the utmost care.

Pike polypropylene compounds required to be produced at the recommended temperature, which ensures that compounds with the required characteristics are obtained. Failure to comply with these conditions may result in the need for a complete rework of the system.

A few simple tips that you can follow to ensure effective work thermal equipment:

• do not save on the cost of pipes, fittings, sealing materials by purchasing them from trusted suppliers;
• trim polyethylene pipes strictly at an angle of 90 degrees;
• do not skip the step of cleaning the ends of pipes reinforced with aluminum foil;
• When connecting system elements, immediately check each welding seam and threaded connection by hand;