We glue the wallpaper with our own hands correctly. How to paste wallpaper: main rules and nuances of work How to paste wallpaper

You can update your interior easily and quickly. Sometimes all you need to do is re-paste the wallpaper. Wallpaper is now sold in a wide variety of coating types and base types.

What is non-woven wallpaper

IN Lately non-woven wallpaper is very popular. They have different types of coating, with varying degrees of relief. They are also washable and therefore suitable for almost all rooms. An undoubted advantage is that gluing non-woven wallpaper with your own hands is accessible even to a beginner in repair matters.

An important feature of this wallpaper is the non-woven base. Since this base is very flexible, this wallpaper is easy to stick to the wall. It is also easy to adjust their placement on the wall. Glue for non-woven wallpaper is applied directly to the wall, which greatly facilitates the gluing process, because this is much easier and faster to do, especially with a roller.

Read more about what kind of glue you need for non-woven wallpaper in this article.

How to hang non-woven wallpaper and what is needed for this

In order to hang non-woven wallpaper easily and simply, in addition to the desire for change, you will need some tools and several useful tips. As well as a short guide in the form of step-by-step instructions.

So, for work you need the following tools and devices:

non-woven wallpaper in the required quantity;
glue for non-woven wallpaper;
roller for applying glue;
thin brush for applying glue;
plastic wallpaper spatula for smoothing wallpaper;
putty knife metal long 250-350 mm for trimming;
stationery knife;
regular knife;
scissors;
glue tray;
a plumb line or level to obtain a vertical line;
roulette;
pencil, not too soft;
rubber roller for smoothing wallpaper (optional, as an option);
small rubber roller for smoothing joints and hard-to-reach places (optional);
ladder.

Wallpaper spatula

Preparatory processes

Smooth walls and straight corners

You need to start gluing wallpaper after the walls are leveled, puttied and the molding under the ceiling is glued. It is very important to check the condition of the corners. It is the corners that are quite crooked. A slight unevenness or slope of one wall on the wall itself is not so visible. But when two walls meet, and even with varying degrees of inclination and unevenness, the result is not a very beautiful “perspective”. That is, later you may end up with a very ugly corner that will ruin all the work. At the same time, it can take a lot of time and effort to glue a clumsy corner, but the result will still be unhappy. Therefore, it is important to correctly assess the condition of the corners and, possibly, contact a specialist, because... straight corners are the lot of craftsmen. Of course, if the corner will be permanently closed by the cabinet or these are the back corners in narrow room, which are practically not viewed, then you don’t have to worry about them too much. But if it is an open corner in a visible place, then you need to treat it carefully and correct its defects as much as possible before wallpapering.

Primer of walls

Before wallpapering, the wall must be primed with a primer. deep penetration and let it dry right time(indicated in the instructions for the primer, usually 1-2 days).

If you just removed old wallpaper and the wall is in good condition, you can probably skip this step. It is important that the wall has a uniform, strong coating, does not “dust” and has the same “absorption” (degree of moisture absorption). In this case, you can decide for yourself whether the wall needs to be primed now. But experts recommend priming the walls before wallpapering.

If the walls are uneven, they need to be puttied. Read more.

Non-woven wallpaper is glued end-to-end and it makes no difference how you glue it - from the window or to the window. The main thing is to choose correct order gluing so that it would be convenient to glue and there would be an optimal cutting of the wallpaper.

It is better to start from a corner or from the doorway in order to get a strictly vertical first stripe.

For correct gluing canvases need to be marked on the wall in the form of a vertical line. It is advisable to draw the vertical line in such a way that the edge (joint) of the wallpaper does not run along the line, but with an indentation of 2-5 mm, so that the line does not fall into the seam. You should also try to draw a neat line; you can make it in the form of strokes. It is better to use a harder and well-sharpened pencil.

If the wallpaper is without a pattern or is plain, then trimming the wallpaper to height can be done while gluing. If a selection of designs is required, then it is better to cut the wallpaper into canvases in advance.

It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that trimming the top of the wallpaper under the baguette is done immediately after gluing each canvas, and not after completing the gluing of the entire wall or even the room. You need to cut the top while the glue has not yet hardened, then you can get a smooth edge that is ideal for a baguette.

Removing the wallpaper under the baguette

Step-by-step instructions for gluing non-woven wallpaper

Step 1. Preliminary preparation. Before starting work, you need to carefully inspect the wall so that there are no bumps on it, greasy stains, which can then appear through the wallpaper. Sometimes better wall wipe with a damp cloth to remove dust. Sockets, switches, curtain rods and everything that could interfere with work are removed from the wall. To prevent glue from getting inside the socket, you can seal it carefully masking tape. So, how to hang non-woven wallpaper? Read on.

Removing sockets and switches from the wall

Step 2. Applying the first layer of glue. The glue is diluted clean water in accordance with the instructions. Apply glue to the wall using a roller. It must be rolled out well on the wall so that the layer of glue is uniform and of the same thickness everywhere.

The glue should dry and be absorbed into the wall. The time is indicated in the instructions, approximately 3 hours.

Step 3. Preparing canvases for gluing. We measure the height of the wall from the floor to the baguette and set aside desired length wallpaper canvases. The height of the canvas should correspond to the measured height of the wall plus 1.5-3 cm of margin to correct unevenness under the ceiling and along the floor. The margin depends on the size of the irregularities. If the ceiling and floor levels are horizontal, then you can only make a margin of 1.5 cm for trimming for a baguette.

Measuring the height of the wall

If the wallpaper has a pattern (rapport), but you need to select the pattern and cut it required amount canvases On back side For pre-prepared canvases, it is recommended to apply special marks indicating the top of the canvas. Apply marks carefully with a thin pencil so that they do not bleed through and become visible after sticking, because non-woven wallpaper is thin and inscriptions made with a pen or grease pencil may appear on light-colored wallpaper.

In order to get an even cut at right angles to the ends of the wallpaper, the panel is folded and aligned along the edge line.

Align the panel along the edge of the roll

Then they draw along the edge of the bend with a spatula to get a stable, clear bend line.

Smooth out the cut line with a spatula

Cut along the resulting line with a metal spatula or an ordinary knife.

Using a spatula, cut the wallpaper

It is not advisable to use a sharp stationery knife here, because... he can wag. Of course, you can cut it with ordinary scissors, but the cut will not be very even and it is not so convenient. Experts recommend cutting with a knife or spatula.

Step 4. Marking on the wall. Determine the place where you need to start gluing the wallpaper. It's best to start from a corner or doorway.

We measure the width of the canvas

We measure the width of the canvas and put it on the wall, put a notch.

Transferring the width of the roll to the wall

Then, using a level or plumb line, draw a vertical line.

Draw a vertical line

Step 5. Preparing glue for wallpapering and applying the second layer to the wall. The amount of glue should correspond to the area of the wall. If the area is large, then it is better to prepare glue in smaller quantities, because If you don’t have time to do everything at once, there will be an extra one left. Not a large number of excess glue can be poured into a jar and covered plastic cover. But you can leave the glue this way if the work continues the next day. And if after a week, then you need to make a new portion.

Apply glue with a roller to the wall

Using a roller, glue is applied to the wall within the area for one sheet. The glue is carefully rolled out so that it is distributed evenly. IN hard to reach places the glue is applied with a brush.

Gently apply glue under the baguette with a brush.

You also need to carefully brush the areas under the baguette, below the floor and along the edge of the already pasted canvas. Special attention pay attention to the corners, they should be well coated with glue so that the wallpaper does not peel off later.

Carefully coat the corners

Step 6. Sticker of the first panel. The canvas is taken by the upper edge and lightly applied to the wall without pressing. We place the canvas with a slight overlap of about 1.5 cm on the baguette.

First of all, you need to make sure that the edge of the canvas coincides with the vertical line and at the same time direct the top of the canvas horizontally along the baguette. The panel must be clearly aligned along a vertical line.

We check verticality along the entire length and at the very bottom.

Having made sure that the vertical line coincides, press the wallpaper against the wall and begin gluing it with smoothing movements. You can smooth the wallpaper using a special wallpaper spatula or rubber roller.

Smooth the wallpaper with a rubber roller

The direction of movement with the spatula is first up, then up and to the sides. Somewhere from eye level, we begin to smooth the canvas down and from the middle of the canvas down, as if diagonally. Then from the middle and to the sides. The movements resemble the shape of a Christmas tree.

Smooth out the wallpaper with a spatula

If the bottom of the canvas moves away from the vertical line, then the wallpaper can easily be lifted and aligned along the line.

Crooked wallpaper can be lifted and its position adjusted

Again they are smoothed with movements, first downwards, and then downwards and to the sides. In the same way, you can adjust the placement of the upper part of the canvas.

Step 7. Displace air bubbles. After the canvas is in place and smoothed, there are still a lot of air bubbles left. These bubbles are “expelled” from under the cloth with the same smoothing movements: first up, then down and to the sides. The presence of bubbles is checked by running your hand over the surface.

Remove air bubbles with a wallpaper spatula

Step 8. Trimming the top edge of the panel. Now you need to trim the top of the panel under the baguette. Using an obtuse angle of a wallpaper spatula, we pass under the baguette several times, trying to draw the joint line well.

The wallpaper must be carefully “pressed” under the baguette to create a clear line. This is necessary so that there is no glue left at the joint, which creates thickness and after final trimming and smoothing the edge to the wall, due to this thickness, the edge may not be even or even lag behind the baguette.

Carefully press the wallpaper under the baguette

You need to cut off the excess piece of wallpaper using a metal spatula and a sharp stationery knife. The spatula is applied to the cut line and pressed firmly against the baguette again.

You need to pay attention to the fact that the spatula should lie on the wall, it does not need to be placed at an angle. The cut should go along the very edge of the baguette where it adjoins the wall, and not along the wall or “in the corner”. Then you will get a beautiful connection of the wallpaper to the baguette without any gaps.

You can't hold it like that when cutting. If you cut at an angle, you may end up with a gap between the wallpaper and the baguette.

We apply a spatula and use a knife to make a cut, moving the knife along the spatula. This also has its own subtleties. The first subtlety: the knife should be held as parallel as possible with respect to the spatula, and not at an angle to it (you need to cut along the baguette). Second: the knife is held continuously, without breaking, until the entire cut is made, otherwise jagged edges will appear. To do this, bring the knife not to the very end of the spatula, stop the movement (do not tear off the knife) and smoothly move the spatula to the next position. With light pressure, the spatula again seems to be “squashed” under the baguette, and after that we continue cutting with a knife again.

Correct position of the staple when cutting

The cut tape is removed and the top edge is carefully pressed against the wall. The remaining glue from the baguette and wallpaper is washed off with water using a sponge (the sponge is wrung out well).

Wash off the glue residue with clean water using a sponge.

Step 9. Gluing the next canvas. The next canvas is glued in the same way as the first. Only here the main reference point will be the edge of the already glued panel.

Apply glue to the wall in a strip equal to the width of the wall or slightly wider. If the wallpaper is moisture resistant vinyl covering, then you don’t have to worry if the glue gets on the edge of the already pasted wallpaper because... it can then be easily washed off with water using a sponge. It is important to immediately coat the seam area well with glue so that the wallpaper does not come off later.

When laying a new canvas, we focus on the vertical seam

The panel is applied with a slight overlap to the baguette and is immediately positioned vertically along the seam. If the wallpaper has a matching pattern, then the pattern is set and the rapport fit is carefully checked.

Displaying the drawing

Then the panel is smoothed out and air bubbles are expelled as described above. The joining of the seam is carefully checked.

Checking and correcting the joining of seams

Then the seam is carefully pressed and smoothed with an obtuse angle of a spatula or a special small rubber roller.

Smooth the seam with a roller

Step 10. Gluing non-woven wallpaper in the corners. Let's look at the features of wallpapering in the corner. Wallpaper in the corner can be glued to only one wall, cutting out the panel required width, or with a transition from one wall to another. But, in the case of gluing on two walls at once, the angle must be even and, most importantly, vertical. In this case, the wallpaper is carefully smoothed to the walls and the corner will be neat. But, if the angle is far from perfect, then with a large “camber” between the walls, it may turn out that the second edge of the canvas is not vertical, but oblique. In some cases, for example, if the corner is concave into the wall, it can turn out completely ugly. At the top and bottom there will be, as it were, extra wallpaper that will lie like an accordion, and in the center the wallpaper will be stretched, which means that it will soon fall away from the wall and “swell up.” Therefore, for gluing non-ideal corners, it is better to cut the panel and glue it to each wall separately.

There should be no large gaps between the spatula and the wall

The procedure for gluing the canvas itself is the same as described in Steps 5-9. Just need to carefully coat the corner with glue. If the walls are lumpy and are visible enough when applying a spatula large gaps, then wallpaper can be pasted on one wall with a slight overlap (1.5 cm) on the other. This will be the bottom panel.

Step 11. Trimming the wallpaper in the corner. After both wallpapers have been glued to the corner walls, you need to trim off the excess pieces of wallpaper on one of the canvases (they form on uneven surfaces). To do this, use the same cutting method using a spatula and a utility knife, which is described in Step 8. Only the spatula is now installed vertically along the corner, again “lying” on the wall.

Wallpaper should be carefully pressed into the corner

Before you start trimming, you need to press the wallpaper very well against the wall in the corner. Moreover, both the first (lower) canvas and the upper one must be carefully pressed. Using a plastic spatula, we run it along the corner several times, pressing the wallpaper there and pressing it against the wall.

Pressing the wallpaper into a corner

We use a metal spatula to “press” the corner. Sliding the knife blade along the spatula, carefully cut the excess pieces on the top sheet. You need to cut parallel to the spatula, not “into the corner”. Do not tear off the knife while cutting, moving the spatula from time to time and moving the knife along it. Not reaching the very bottom of the corner about 10 cm, we tear off the knife. At the very bottom we cut the last 7-10 cm from bottom to top.

Moving the spatula along the corner, cut off the excess wallpaper

When trimming a corner panel for a baguette, you should use next advice. The metal spatula should be installed at a short distance from the corner between the walls, approximately 3-5 cm. Otherwise, the spatula, buried in the corner, may make a hole in the wallpaper. The uncut top is then easily trimmed with sharp scissors. For this top corner The wallpaper is torn off, the corner is cut off and the wallpaper is glued back into place.

Use scissors to trim a corner of the wallpaper

We put sockets and switches in place.

It is very common to see two people wasting precious time wallpapering the same room. One of them, as a rule, coats the strip with glue and hands it to his partner, who stands idle on the scaffold all this time. Then they change places. While the second one adjusts the strip in place, the first one observes the process and gives “valuable” advice. Then they argue and the pasting is postponed to another day.

However, all wallpaper work can be done by one person, without a partner. Moreover, labor productivity increases significantly. You just need to master a few techniques and abandon cliches, many of which date back hundreds of years.

List of required tools

To work productively with wallpaper, you need to replenish your arsenal of tools. Here full list what is needed for this:

Light stepladder.
Clean plastic bucket for glue.
Ditch for glue.
Paint roller with medium density fur, 250 mm wide.
A flat brush with a width of at least 50 mm.
Wallpaper line.
Wallpaper knife and a set of spare blades for it at the rate of 1 package per room.
Scissors.
Tape measure and pencil.
Water or laser two-plane self-aligning level.
Wallpaper brush (if the selected wallpaper requires careful handling when smoothing).
Rubber wallpaper roller (wide, for smoothing panels).
Rubber roller for joints (suitable for most types of wallpaper).
Plastic Taper Ribbed Joint Bead (Suitable for heavy wallpaper, having special instructions from the manufacturer).
Plastic wallpaper spatula (for smooth wallpaper it can be used instead of a rubber roller, and when working with other wallpaper it is convenient to press the wallpaper in the corners).
Cardboard or thick construction film wider than the width of the wallpaper.
A sponge and a piece of gauze to remove excess glue.
Pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

A few words about surface preparation

Not so long ago, the attitude towards wallpaper could be characterized by the phrase: “Seal it up so that it is clean and the scary walls are not visible!” In the modern understanding, the place of wallpaper in the interior is much wider. Therefore, there must be a reliable, smooth and clean surface under the wallpaper. Satisfies these requirements high quality plaster, putty in several layers with intermediate sanding and priming of each layer. Such a surface does not require large-scale repair work in the future and can withstand repeated wallpapering during subsequent cosmetic repairs.

There are wallpapers that can be removed without leaving any residue. These, for example, include all types of non-woven wallpaper. All types of vinyl wallpaper (this is the most common class of decorative wall coverings on the market) have a detachable backing that remains on the wall and is a ready-made base for gluing other wallpaper. Therefore, the requirement for high strength of plaster and putty layers is relevant. The base should not fall off along with the wallpaper when it is subsequently removed.

You can check the quality of the surface by scratching the wall crosswise in an inconspicuous place with a hard, sharp object. If no chips form in the crosshairs, then the surface is durable.

Pattern matching, marking and storage of strips

The bulk of wallpaper is produced with a pattern. The larger it is, the greater its step (rapport), the more waste there will be during operation. First technological operation when working with wallpaper - matching the pattern, marking and storing strips.

Two rolls are rolled out on a clean floor. The one on the left in the photo is already cut to length according to required height with a margin of at least 10 cm from this size. The second roll is combined with the design on the first page and pencil marks are placed along its edges. You can cut these places with scissors.

In order not to bother with a square and a ruler, it is enough to align the strip of wallpaper along the edges in the place where the cut was made, and press down the bend with your hands.

Then you need to cut off the rest of the wallpaper roll from the canvas with scissors. There is no need to worry about the uneven edge. After all, the reserve in length is intended so that after gluing the strip to the wall, you can cut off the excess in place with high accuracy already under the line.

In the meantime, the previous marking strip will no longer be needed. On its reverse side you need to mark with an arrow the direction where the top will be, number it and roll the base outwards. The roll must be placed vertically against the wall on which it will be glued in the future.

The next canvas is marked and stored in the order indicated above. With this method of preparing and storing cuts ready for gluing, you can straighten the wallpaper without taking up space in the room.

Usually the cut strips are spread on top of each other front side down, and glue is applied to top page in a stack. In this case, the edges of the lower cuts are damaged, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

Marking. Let's say plumb - no

The next stage of work is marking the walls in accordance with the plan. Almost all wallpapering guides advise using a plumb line for this. Stone Age! There is not a single professional who would use this device. For marking vertical and horizontal lines Either a water level or a laser level is used. Mark the position of the first stripes from the corners (vertical lines), the position of the border on the wall or the place of transition from one wallpaper to another (horizontal level).

When drawing a line with a pencil, you do not need to draw it with force. It is enough just to outline it with a dotted line. If the line is left solid, then under transparent non-woven wallpaper it will be visible even through two layers of paint, and other wallpaper can be stained with graphite dust. It is important to make a slight tolerance on the width. Let's say the width of the wallpaper is 53 cm. Then the vertical line needs to be drawn back at least 54 cm from the corner, placing the edge parallel to the marking line, there is less chance of deviating from it than running the wallpaper straight along it.

Applying glue, impregnation and gluing the strip

After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you can begin to directly paste the room. By then all the stripes will be straightened. The glue must be diluted before starting work, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Here we can note one rule common to all: the water must be clean and cold, and the glue must be poured into the water in a thin stream with continuous stirring. You cannot dilute two packs of glue at once. It thickens quickly and lumps will begin to form. The type of glue must match the type of wallpaper.

The strip needs to be rolled out on cardboard or film. Pour some of the glue into a ditch, dip a roller in it and apply to the wallpaper. It is important to coat the edges well. Glue with an indicator is ideal for this. Nothing bad will happen if the roller goes beyond the edge of the canvas. Fresh glue can be easily removed with a damp sponge or gauze. The layer of glue applied should be uniform, but not thick.

Immediately after applying the glue, the wallpaper should be folded as shown in the photo and left to soak for three to five minutes. If the next strip of wallpaper after this runs along a flat wall without obstacles, then you can coat the next section and also fold it. But you should not leave more than three strips for impregnation - they will begin to stick together.

The glue-soaked strip needs to be unrolled by climbing onto the ladder. Find the top using the mark and attach it to the wall, making an overlap on the ceiling (the amount of overlap should be greater than the total slope of the floors, which in some houses can reach 10 cm).

First, the upper half of the panel is glued and adjusted to the pattern. Then you need to go down the stairs and unfold the second half of the wallpaper, fit it end to end and begin to smooth it with a wide rubber roller (a wallpaper spatula or a wallpaper brush, depending on the type of wallpaper), starting from the middle and top, ending with the edges and bottom, squeezing all the air out.

Immediately after this, roll the joint with a narrow rubber roller. The seams should not be pressed too hard or rubbed with a rag. Excess glue should be blotted with a sponge, which should be washed immediately in running water.

The less attention is paid to the seams, the less they will stand out after drying.

Sockets and switches - to remove or not to remove

The answer is clear - shoot! There are several reasons. First, electrical fixtures are sometimes replaced, and a different model of outlet or switch may have different dimensions. It’s good if they’re big, but what if they’re not? Secondly, a rosette installed on top of the wallpaper looks much better than one cut along the contour.

Many manuals advise cutting the wallpaper crosswise at the location where the box is installed, and bending the resulting sectors inward and gluing them. Not the best in terms of fire safety option. It is better to immediately cut out the middle of the box.

This must be done while the wallpaper is damp, since they tend to stretch as they dry and then it is difficult to find the place where mounting box. Naturally, when dismantling electrical fittings, you need to de-energize the room, and insulate the exposed wires and put them inside the box.

How to properly trim excess

One of the main tools in wallpaper making is a flexible ruler. It is designed simply: a strip of flexible material is sealed in a plastic case 60 cm long. of stainless steel. The ruler is able to press tightly even on uneven surfaces, accurately repeating all their curves. The photo shows how it should be used.

It is important to remember that after each cut you need to break off the tip of the blade of the wallpaper knife so that it is always sharp. The savings here are completely unjustified. After the excess has been removed, you need to wipe the surface with a damp sponge.

Despite the fact that the wallpaper is damp, the cut remains clean, without burrs or lint. It is impossible to do this kind of work accurately without a wallpaper ruler.

Heating radiators - ways to get around the sore spot

Any master, regardless of qualifications, really dislikes heating radiators. In terms of complexity and painstakingness, this warm place in the apartment presents the greatest difficulty when wallpapering. New buildings have batteries that can be easily removed and installed back. When dismantling the radiator, only wall mounts and outlets from the floor, to which it is connected via quick-release connections (the so-called American ones).

With this method of pasting the surface behind the radiator, little time and nerves are spent. Much more will be required to first remove and then replace the battery. Before unscrewing the “American” nuts, you need to turn off the valves on the radiator supply and return and drain the water, having first reduced the pressure by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.

If it is not possible to remove the radiator, then it is enough to place strips of wallpaper around its perimeter to a depth of about 15 cm on each side. It is recommended to additionally coat the surface of the wall behind the battery with glue, especially if it is working.

To quickly and accurately complete wallpaper work without an assistant, you should use a few useful tips:

Use only a stepladder. “Goats” and scaffolding are bulky and can easily damage walls.
When working with non-woven wallpaper or fiberglass, there is no need to pre-cut and adjust the stripes according to the pattern. You can paste from a roll, since the glue for these types of wallpaper is applied to the wall.
To make the edge of the wallpaper running along the slopes neat, you need to make a small overlap (1-2 cm), wait until the wallpaper dries, and then trim off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife.
You should not join the wallpaper strictly in the corners. It is better to make a transition from one plane to another by an amount greater than the deviation of the wall from the vertical, and paste the next sheet of wallpaper level, overlapping the previous strip, cut both sheets under the ruler, and remove the excess.
All types flooring, except for parquet and tiles, are laid after wallpapering.
If parquet is laid on the floor, then before wallpapering it needs to be covered with two or three layers of thick cardboard. Parquet floors cannot be covered with film!
Hands must be clean. After each pasted panel, wipe them with damp gauze, which you rinse periodically.

The article will help you avoid situations when, in the process of gluing wallpaper on a wall, or you encounter unforeseen moments that force you to “take off” and go to a hardware store to buy the same narrower spatula, or run around the floors and beg your neighbors for a shaped screwdriver. Read our article and highlight for yourself necessary tools.

List of all possible tools

When you make the list necessary materials and tools, take into account the fact that in the process preparatory stage you may need not only tools related to applying glue, etc., but also improvised means for tearing wallpaper off the walls (or removing old paint), and for filling various holes with putty.

First, let's list all the tools for gluing wallpaper:

paint roller,
wallpaper roller,
wallpaper roller for corners,
painting bath,
bucket,
sponge,
drill,
insulating tape,
pencil,
brush,
ruler,
stationery knife,
scissors,
screwdriver,
plumb line,
construction tape,
construction mixer,
rag,
square,
level,
cord,
painting spatula,
wallpaper spatula,
wallpaper brush,

Please note that this list of tools is not mandatory. So, you can apply glue with one roller (rather than several). You can cut the canvas either only with scissors, or only with a stationery knife.

Wallpaper rollers come in different varieties. Let's look at painting first. When choosing a paint roller at a hardware store, ask the sales consultant to bring you a roller with medium length villi. This tool is used to apply diluted glue to the surface of the cut fabric or directly, depending on the type of wallpaper chosen.

The purpose of this roller is not to apply glue solution on the surface to be pasted or on rolls, but to smooth out the cut canvas already glued to the wall. So, thin wallpaper are not intended for use with a spatula as it may damage them. This tool will come to the rescue and help you get rid of bubbles and excess glue between the wall and the canvas. Wallpaper roller comes in two colors – yellow and black. The first one is used if your wallpaper has a relief pattern and you don’t want to “crush” it, and the second one is for more flat surface when there is no fear of spoiling anything.

Wallpaper roller for corners

Thanks to its conical shape, it allows you to give required pressure in certain areas of the canvas - namely in the corners.

After you dilute the glue in a randomly selected container, you should choose a good tray that will allow you to distribute the glue evenly over the entire working area of the roller. The bath consists of two parts - there is a flat surface and there is a smooth surface. The roller needs to be rolled exactly along uneven surface with ribs. The size of the paint bath directly depends on the size of the roller (its width should be slightly larger than the width of the roller).

Bucket

You will need a bucket to dilute the glue solution in. At the same time, if you expect to use glue the next day, then it is best to choose a bucket (or any other container) with a tightly closed lid. This is the only way to store glue! Of course, do not forget to place the container in a cool place, out of reach of sunlight. If you are interested in the question of how to glue wallpaper, then we suggest that you read another article on our website.

Sponge

It will be useful for wiping off excess glue along the edges of the canvas glued to the wall. Choose a sponge that is as soft as possible, and if its side has a more ribbed surface, then do not even think about wiping it with it, as you can easily damage them.

Drill

This tool can come in handy if you don't have a construction mixer. Select a nozzle so that you can stir the glue solution.

Insulating tape

It is quite natural to have at least one switch and one socket in any room. After you unscrew them and take out the boxes, you should be sure to insulate all the wires, otherwise you will expose yourself to danger. And electrical tape will help you with this.

Pencil

You will need a pencil to mark the walls. Choose a pencil that will be visible on concrete wall. So, construction stores offer everyone who wants to buy a construction pencil.

Brush

Here we will not consider each brush option in detail. They differ in width, elasticity of the fibers (soft or harder) and their length. If you don't use rollers, which, if you've already realized, can have different purposes(for canvases, for corners and for joints), then be sure to buy one wide and one narrow brush. A wide brush will help apply a layer of glue to the canvas or the surface of the wall, and with a narrow brush you can coat the walls at the joints and corners between the wall - ceiling and wall - floor.

Ruler

If you don’t have a construction tape at home (like any other), you’ll have to use what you have. A ruler will help you measure the height of your walls and determine the length of the wallpaper. Do not forget that you need to add about 5 cm to the resulting wall height for adjusting the canvases to each other.

Stationery knife

You will need a utility knife to cut the canvas to the specified length. It is very convenient if you want to trim corners. A knife is also used to trim the fabric along the baseboard or ceiling. In addition, during the process of wallpapering walls, bubbles may appear under the canvas, which cannot be removed with a roller or spatula. In this case, you can try to make a small cut in the wallpaper. True, it is best to use a thin needle for these purposes. It is better to make 3-5 small holes with a needle and spend a little more time than one large and conspicuous “hole”.

By the way, if the knife blade becomes dull, do not rush to buy a new one. Drive the blade inside the knife so that one part remains outside (until the last notch). Take a pair of pliers and break off a piece. So, you can use a new sharp blade on the edge of the knife. In addition, you can protect yourself from unnecessary injuries by hiding your eyes under construction glasses.

Scissors

They will be suitable for you to cut the canvas to the desired size. But, unlike the same stationery knife, it seems to us that cutting off the corners, and even more sharply a thin line under the ceiling, will be much more difficult and inconvenient with scissors.

Scissors are an important tool in wallpapering.

Screwdriver

A screwdriver is useful for removing boxes from sockets and switches. Do not forget to insulate the wires after this, as described above.

Plumb

Very the right tool, because from its presence and correct operation It depends on how smoothly you glue the canvas to the wall. Attach top part to the top so that the weight “dangles” at the bottom. Now draw a straight line along the hanging thread with a pencil or felt-tip pen. A plumb line allows you to apply even vertical markings.

Construction tape

I think there is nothing to explain here - a tape measure will help you measure the height of the walls, their width, and also cut out the wallpaper correctly.

The mixer is designed for stirring the adhesive solution. If you don't have a construction mixer, don't despair! In any case, even if you use a clean wooden stick, this process will not affect the properties of your glue in the worst side. You just have to devote a little more time and effort to the stage of bringing the glue to the desired concentration, plus you will have to add the dry mixture in smaller portions than using a mixer. But if you are the happy owner of this tool, then pick up a construction mixer, turn on low speed and gradually pour out Place glue in small portions into a bucket of cool water (hot water is not recommended).

Rag

Using a rag soaked in water (be careful: it should be wet, but not to the point that water drips from it), wipe the surface of the glued canvas, getting rid of excess stains and stains. It is best that it is soft - it will not damage the wallpaper.

The tool will come in handy if you need to cut out various types of wallpaper from a roll of wallpaper. geometric shapes. Use a square to draw a right angle.

A level is required in order to stick the canvas in a straight, vertical position. Level and plumb – important tools for wallpaper work!

Cord

You can make a plumb line out of it by attaching a small weight. On the other hand, the cord can be used to mark walls horizontally.

To cut wallpaper near the ceiling or floor, place a spatula there and draw a straight line with a utility knife.

Working surface Such a spatula is not metal, but plastic or rubber. The fact is that it is necessary to smooth the canvas, which will allow you to expel excess glue and bubbles. Plastic and rubber won't hurt. But remember that if your wallpaper is very thin, best choice For this stage of pasting you will use a wallpaper roller.

If you don’t have a roller or brush, you can use a brush to apply glue to the canvas or wall surface. But its main purpose is the same smoothing of the canvas glued to the wall. The brush is especially convenient when used when gluing not walls, but the ceiling.

Conclusion

We tried to tell you about all the wallpaper tools. Which of them will be useful to you is up to you. The article provides interchangeable tools. This means that you can apply glue to the canvas either with a roller or brush, or with a regular brush for smoothing the wallpaper. If you are interested in a description of any other tool, then leave your wishes in the comments below.

Hanging wallpaper with your own hands is a task that anyone can handle House master. Accuracy and compliance technical requirements- two components of success in this rather simple matter. Leveling walls requires professional skills and physical strength, but you can paste the wallpaper on the wall yourself. Apartment renovation will cost less if you carefully study the rules for covering walls and strictly adhere to them.

How to hang wallpaper yourself: secrets of success

A person who decides to carry out cosmetic repairs on his own has many questions. Is it possible to hang wallpaper alone? How to choose the right glue? How to paste wallpaper evenly? How to glue wallpaper end to end? How to quickly hang wallpaper? How to glue wide wallpaper? How to glue wallpaper in the corners of a room? These questions can be boiled down to one thing: how to properly glue wallpaper on walls.

Wallpapering walls with your own hands, as in the photo, will become a reality if you break the task into parts and follow the recommendations.

Preparing walls for gluing

How to hang wallpaper correctly so that the result does not disappoint? A good start- half the battle: before gluing you need to be careful: it must be perfectly smooth, white, free of debris and dust. The main rule is that you can’t glue wallpaper on crooked walls, and it’s better to invite specialists for leveling. On uneven areas plaster is applied.

If the walls have oil or water-based paint or old wallpaper, you will have to work hard before gluing new ones.

Is it possible? Many experts advise against doing this. To remove the old paper covering, just go over it with a wet roller or a rag with a soapy solution. After 10-15 minutes, the paper will easily separate from the walls.

As you can see in the photo, the old coating cannot always be completely removed. The residues are re-wetted and removed with a spatula.

If there is a waterproof film on the surface, it should be cut or scratched with a wire brush before wetting. When the surface swells, it’s time to clean it.

Removing old paint

Is it possible to glue wallpaper onto sanded and primed oil paint? Professionals do not advise doing this: there is a high probability of detachment. Oil paint can be removed mechanically or using special chemicals. The lagging paint is removed with a spatula, and then options are possible.

Removing paint with a hammer and chisel is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but relatively environmentally friendly. More often, a grinder with metal brushes or a hammer drill. The disadvantage of this method is a large amount of dust, which will settle for several days. Part of the paint is removed along with the paint. concrete base- as a result, the surface is strewn with irregularities, and it has to be well puttyed.

Removers are used to remove only paint. Removing paint using special chemicals is carried out in two stages: the remover is applied to the surface, and then the softened paint is scraped off with a spatula.

It should be remembered that paint removers are very toxic, so work is carried out in a well-ventilated area, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

To paste wallpaper on walls covered with water-based paint or whitewash, it will have to be carefully removed using water and a scraper. Hot water will simplify the task.

Wallpapering walls can begin only after complete removal of previous finishing materials, correction of uneven areas, finishing putty and sanding. The importance of these steps cannot be underestimated: proper preparation- the key to an excellent result.

When the walls are leveled, putty and sanded, all that remains is to apply a primer that will protect the coating from moisture, prevent sagging and reduce glue consumption. The primer is evenly distributed over the surface with a brush or roller about a day before wallpapering the wall.

How to choose tools and equipment

How to glue wallpaper correctly, avoiding common mistakes? First you need to prepare the equipment.

To work you will need:

ladder;
tray;
bucket;
knife cutter and wallpaper scissors;
narrow metal spatula;
wide spatula;
plastic spatula / wide rubber roller;
small rubber roller;
brush/glue roller;
roulette;
pencil;
level or plumb.

The photo shows the most necessary tools: a special tray allows you to evenly distribute the glue over the roller, a plastic spatula or a wide roller is useful for pressing the canvas, and a narrow roller is intended for joints.

It is better to apply glue on the desktop. If there is none, this is done on a floor covered with film.

High-quality wallpapering: what to look for

Before starting work, the question naturally arises: what to glue the wallpaper on? You can select the adhesive composition yourself depending on the type of coating or seek help from a sales consultant.

Another problem is where to apply the glue: on the wallpaper, the wall or both surfaces? Pay attention to the special symbols highlighted in red in the figure: they will help you navigate.

The basic rules for wallpapering are simple.

Windows and doors must be tightly closed. Why is a draft dangerous? The glue will dry too quickly, which will lead to peeling of the glued canvases from the walls.

A prerequisite for wallpaper gluing is that the room must be de-energized. It is necessary to turn off the electricity when approaching an outlet or switch: glue, like any liquid, can cause a short circuit.

Before gluing, you need to cut the required number of strips and mark the top with a pencil on the back. It is convenient to place a mark on the edge, which will be cut off later. This will speed up the gluing process.

If the rolls are plain, the length of the strip is calculated based on the height of the ceiling with an overlap of 5 cm at the top and bottom. If there is a pattern, the length of each strip is increased by its step in order to properly join the pattern.

Work should begin with markings on the wall: to ensure that the lines are straight, you should use a level.

Care must be taken not to get glue on outer part wallpaper: if it is light, the stains will be noticeable.

But how can the glue not bleed through at the joints? You shouldn’t apply a lot of it; don’t be afraid that the joints will lag a little behind the wall: after drying, this defect can be corrected by spot-applying glue from a special tube.

Beginners are often concerned with the question of how to hang wallpaper in corners - internal and external. Wallpapering in the corners is done at the final stage, when the main area of the room is already covered. It is especially difficult to wallpaper the corners if there is a window opening nearby: the canvas adjacent to the window is carefully cut.

How to properly glue wallpaper in the corners of a room?

There are several ways.

Method 1. One glued sheet is turned at an angle, so that a strip of about a centimeter is obtained on the adjacent wall, as in the diagram.

The second blade is cut so that the edge fits exactly at the corner. Go along the joints with a narrow roller. If the work is done this way, overlaps may be visible.

Method 2. To ensure that even the thickest wallpaper looks neat on the corners, both sheets are glued, extending about 2 cm onto the adjacent wall. Then both excess strips are removed using a cutter: to do this, a wide spatula rests on the corner, which is gradually shifted until the overlaps will be cut off completely.

The outer corners of the room are covered in a similar way. To cover the corner protrusions, one strip is placed around the corner by 1-2 cm, and the second is glued exactly along the corner. The pasted corner will look neat. If the wallpaper is very thick, use a cutter.

Features of pasting walls with different types of wallpaper

Modern wallpaper production makes it possible to produce products based on paper, textiles, polymer materials. Wallpapering different types has features.

Paper wallpaper

How to glue paper wallpaper? It is environmentally friendly and easy to work with decorative coating successfully competes with many new finishing materials. But how to properly hang wallpaper on paper based? Step-by-step instructions will help with this.

Mark a starting line on the wall, retreating from the corner 30-40 cm. Place a dot at the top and, using a level, draw a strictly vertical line to the floor.
The glue-coated strip is folded so that the glue is inside (this stage is relevant for those who glue without an assistant). If the glue is applied to the wall, it covers a slightly wider area of the surface than the roll. Under the ceiling and near the floor, it is more convenient to use a brush rather than a roller.
The glued strip is pressed on top with an overlap of 4-5 cm onto the ceiling (this will allow you to subsequently trim the wallpaper along an even line).
The side of the wallpaper is leveled and pressed with a flexible plastic spatula or a wide rubber roller strictly along the starting line.
By moving the pressure roller from the center of the strip to the edges, excess air is expelled.
Using a wide metal spatula and a paper knife, cut off the excess part of the strip under the ceiling and at the baseboard.

A start has been made, all that remains is to decide whether to glue end-to-end or overlap. Previously, no one asked this question, because paper wallpaper could only be glued overlapping. Nowadays, overlapping wallpaper is rarely glued, and there are rules here. Wallpaper should be thin, and the overlap width cannot be more than 15 mm.

Some types of modern paper wallpaper, for example, duplex wallpaper, cannot be glued overlapping: due to the thickness of the paper it looks unsightly. But how to properly glue paper wallpaper end-to-end? According to the described scheme, only the role of the starting strip will be performed each time by the newly pasted area. Pasting wallpaper directly depends on the quality of the walls: if they are smooth, there will be no problems.

The following video shows how to properly glue wallpaper end-to-end.

At the final stage, the slopes can be decorated with plastic corners.

Vinyl wallpapers

Pasting walls vinyl wallpaper has its own characteristics.

You should only special glue, having carefully studied the instructions: it will indicate where the glue should be applied.

Glue is applied to the walls thin layer. Before you start covering the walls with vinyl wallpaper, allow the glue to dry for about 20 minutes.

How to glue wide vinyl wallpaper? To mask the joints on them, work begins from the corner closest to the window. The bottom part of the strip is kept folded while the top part is smoothed out.

Non-woven wallpaper

How ? Non-woven fabric is non-woven fabric, which is wear-resistant and difficult to stretch: this feature determines the technology of wallpapering walls on this basis. When choosing, non-woven fabric is also often used.

You should glue the wallpaper yourself, not forgetting the following nuances:

the base must be well puttied and have a uniform White color: due to the thinness of the coating, the walls may be visible;
the glue is carefully prepared from powder according to the instructions and applied only to the wall;
non-woven coverings do not shrink, so they will not separate at the joints, but protruding glue should be immediately removed with a dry cloth, otherwise it will be noticeable after drying.

The non-woven base allows you to produce wallpaper 90-140 cm wide. But how to properly glue wide wallpaper? It should be taken into account that the walls must be very even: with a large width, even a slight curvature will affect the correctness of the joints.

How to hang wide wallpaper? To keep the canvas from moving, you need an assistant. As a rule, the glue is applied only to the wall, and the canvases are smoothed from top to bottom. Otherwise, the technology is the same as for narrower canvases. Wallpaper should be glued correctly, avoiding getting glue on outside. Hanging wide wallpaper is not as difficult as people who are accustomed to standard 53 cm wide wallpapers fear.

Armed with the knowledge of how to hang wallpaper with your own hands, and having studied many of the intricacies of wallpapering techniques, you can get to work. If the rules were followed at each stage, you can be proud of the result.

The most important stage of repair is gluing the side surfaces. The appearance of the room depends on how the walls look. During the work, problems may arise that cannot be eliminated later. You can see photos of high-quality wallpapering of walls below.

Preparatory stage

Before you pick up a roller and a bucket of glue, you need to carry out a few simple manipulations. Exactly from right actions the further process of work depends. First you need to calculate the material consumption and prepare the walls before wallpapering.

Going to a hardware store

Before purchasing wallpaper, glue and other consumables, it is necessary to accurately calculate the area of the walls of the room. For convenience, you can always use an online calculator. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the fit of the canvases if they depict a pattern.

Buyers are often faced with choosing the type of wallpaper. Modern manufacturers offer: paper, non-woven and vinyl the lineup. They all differ in thickness, width of the panel, design and quality.

Wide non-woven wallpaper is in demand. They are easy to glue, they lie easily on the surface and have high wear resistance.

Preparing the walls

In order not to be disappointed with the final result, you need to clearly know how to prepare walls for pasting. To treat the surface you will need a spray bottle with water, a spatula, and unnecessary rags.

To remove the old layer of wallpaper, you need to spray it on it and wait until the canvas gets wet and begins to move away from the wall. To enhance the effect use warm water and soap solution.

Then the canvases begin to be torn off with a spatula or knife. If the wallpaper comes off well, you can remove it by hand.

Gaps, cracks and unevenness may be hidden behind old layers. They must be removed with putty. Then the walls are plastered and primed.

After this treatment, it is better to transfer the pasting to the next day so that the applied layers dry thoroughly.

When decorating walls with non-woven and vinyl wallpaper, plaster and primer are usually not carried out. The thickness of the canvas allows you to hide minor defects surfaces.

Pasting process

First you need to dilute the glue. For each type of wallpaper there are special means for pasting. It is necessary to gradually pour the contents of the package into warm water.

To prevent lumps from forming, you need to continuously stir the solution. After this, the glue should sit and thicken. The process takes approximately 15 minutes.

During this time, you can still cut the wallpaper. There are several ways to cut fabrics:

using an angular ruler;
bend (without tools).

The roll is spread face down on the floor. One end of the canvas can be held by an assistant or it can be clamped with improvised means to avoid rolling the wallpaper back into a roll. The same is done on the other side of the cloth.

Then, knowing the height where the material is to be pasted, use a tape measure to measure the same length on the wallpaper. Moreover, it is advisable to add 5 cm to the value, just in case.

Using a right angle ruler, draw a line that should be perpendicular to the edges of the wallpaper. If you don't have it on hand measuring tool, at the marking point the material is bent so that the edges of the roll coincide.

A piece of wallpaper is cut with scissors along the fold line or along the drawn segment, onto which glue is then applied.

Methods of spreading canvases

If you have wallpaper made of paper, then the adhesive solution is applied with a roller or brush to the wall and to the glued canvas. For non-woven and vinyl representatives, it is enough to apply glue only to a piece of wallpaper.

To ensure that the canvas is evenly saturated, it is folded into a book. First, the two edges are bent so that they meet approximately in the middle, and then the already bent edges are folded in half again.

Using this method, you can make two blanks. While one is soaked in glue, the second is glued to the wall.

Pasting is done from top to bottom. To do this, take a blank and stick one part. Then the second half of the canvas is carefully attached.

Using a dry cloth, the glued piece is ironed from the middle to the edges. This removes excess glue and unwanted bubbles on the wallpaper, which can be difficult to remove.

There may be untaped areas along the edges. They must be coated with glue using a small brush.

While one person is doing final works, the second - again prepares the next piece of wallpaper for gluing.

As you can see, hanging wallpaper with your own hands is not so difficult. Finally, I would like to give a few useful recommendations to facilitate the pasting process:

Thin paper wallpaper is glued overlapping. Other types of non-woven and vinyl are glued end-to-end.

Work should be done when daylight. It is advisable to turn off the electricity and remove all sockets and switches before gluing. The place for the connectors is cut out on the already glued wallpaper.

In the room being renovated, it is necessary to remove the baseboards.

You can't glue wallpaper with open windows. Drafts can lead to poor adhesion of glue and wallpaper. After gluing, the door to the room must be closed until completely dry glue.