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Sooner or later, the time comes when the old toilet in the apartment becomes unusable and has to be replaced with a new one. Most often, replacing a toilet may seem like a expensive pleasure, if a plumber is called. However, armed with a certain set of tools and using some skill, you can replace the toilet on your own, and the recommendations below will help you carry out this procedure efficiently and at minimal cost.

Before replacing the toilet, do not forget to drain the water!

First of all, you need to decide whether it will be complete replacement unit, or, say, partial replacement cistern toilet. In the first case, you should start by choosing a model of a new toilet, namely by selecting a unit of suitable size and configuration. Just like the old toilet, the new device must provide users with conditions of maximum comfort, therefore, immediately before replacing and installing the toilet, it is necessary to take measurements of the toilet, and taking these indicators into account, choose the model that will fit into the room correctly. Namely:

• distance from front door the distance to the toilet should be at least 60 cm;
• the distance from the unit to the side walls must be at least 20 cm in both directions.

It should be taken into account that when replacing a toilet in an apartment, some models will move significantly forward due to the mounting features.

If you only need to replace the toilet tank, it becomes impractical to purchase the entire set (toilet plus tank). One way or another, any plumbing store can offer flush tanks of any configuration: built into the wall, installed on the toilet shelf, and also installed near the ceiling. You should choose from the presented assortment based on the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Now directly about replacing the old toilet. The whole process begins with dismantling the old unit. If we are talking about replacing a relatively new device connected to a sewer system from plastic pipes, there shouldn't be any problems here. But if, for example, you have to replace the toilet in a Khrushchev-era building, then everything is much more complicated.

In this case, a variety of difficulties may arise. Thus, dismantling the tank may be complicated by the poor condition of the fastening elements. Over many years of service, the mounting bolts rust, making their removal difficult. When dismantling the toilet itself, as a rule, similar problems arise with fasteners, as well as difficulties in disconnecting the outlet from the cast iron sewer. In those years, such connections were made by sealing tow with subsequent sealing cement mortar. Of course, undocking such connections is a very labor-intensive process.

If, when replacing an old toilet with a new one, there is no need to maintain the integrity of the old unit, then the old toilet can simply be broken into several parts with a hammer. Only a qualified specialist can dismantle the toilet while maintaining its integrity. After all fasteners are disconnected, the most difficult task– the disconnection of the outlet from the sewer pipe has been overcome, you can begin installing a new toilet.

As a rule, the entire sequence of installing a new unit is described in the attached instructions, and the video about replacing the toilet presented on the website further clarifies the installation picture, so we will focus only on the key points.

So, replacing a toilet with your own hands at the stage of installing a new device includes the following steps.

Thus, this short guide with photos on how to replace a toilet will help you not only carry out the whole range of measures on our own, but also save on the services of a plumber, as well as gain invaluable experience in replacing plumbing fixtures.

Regardless of the reasons for installation new plumbing, a number of conditions must be met. Deviations from the instructions will lead to negative consequences and financial losses. Replacing a toilet in an apartment with your own hands is possible if you have the simplest skills and knowledge.

Before changing the toilet with your own hands, study individual characteristics types of plumbing. Classification options include:

• tank design;
• material;
• size;
• installation method.

The main selection criterion is the design of the upper part. Manufacturers offer four options:

Such an installation saves space and fits perfectly into the design - a project of all style directions. It has two disadvantages: the tank is made of plastic; Repairs require disassembly of the wall structure.

Material

Before replacing the toilet with your own hands, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the characteristics. For manufacturing, 4 types of materials are used:

• faience;
• acrylic;
• porcelain;
• cast iron.

Earthenware in this group is the most fragile raw material with low level resistance to mechanical stress. The raw material base is white clay with special additives.

To protect against exposure aggressive environment The earthenware is covered with a layer of glaze. The service life is 15 years.

Acrylic – light, strong, durable, resistant to high temperatures. Service life 30 years. Manufacturers offer products made from fiberglass reinforced acrylic. This gives additional strength.

Porcelain belongs to the premium price segment. Sanitary porcelain is a mixture of white clay and minerals. Dense structure and abrasion resistance make porcelain products 10 times stronger and more durable than analogues made from earthenware and acrylic.

Cast iron in modern production used for making individual orders citizens or businesses. Despite the increased strength and 50-year operational period, mass production of metal products is not carried out.

Size

The criterion refers to three parameters:

1. Width. The factory standard ranges from 30 to 37 cm.
2. Length. Minimum values ​​- 45 cm. Maximum - 68 cm.
3. Set height. Measured from the bottom of the base to top point tank.

In the product description, the height of the bowl is also given in a separate line.

Installation method

There are three installation methods for connecting the outlet to the sewer:

• vertical;
• horizontal (straight);
• transverse (oblique).

Vertical bends are typical for old houses, in which sewer system was carried out under the floor. Since the late 90s, a different principle has been applied. It is not possible to adapt a vertical outlet with modern plumbing.

Replacing the toilet with your own hands in this case will require overhaul sewer system.

Horizontal diversion has been done since the beginning of the 2000s. The neck is installed parallel to the floor, and sewer pipes recessed into the walls.

When replacing a toilet, the connecting corrugation or cuff is installed in a manner similar to the transverse one. Horizontal method considered universal and problem-free.

Transverse (oblique). Also used for sewers located at the base of the floor. Named after the neck angle of 45 degrees required by the standards.

Kinds

There are two types of bathrooms:

• Hanging - suspended using a metal frame located in a wall niche. Complex designs. It is almost impossible to install them yourself.
• Floor-mounted – fixed directly to the floor with fasteners.

Preparatory work

Before changing the toilet yourself, remove the old one. If a new product is being dismantled, the process will not take much time. First, the water supply is cut off. Next, the bolts and connecting tee are removed. Carefully remove the bowl and drain tank.

Replacing an old-style toilet will require patience and accuracy. In houses that are more than 30 years old, utilities are more complex. In addition, they suggested filling the joint with cement. Here's how it works step by step:

1. Turn off the drain tank, drain the water, remove the lid.
2. Unscrew the corrugation and collect any remaining moisture inside the water seal.
3. Use blows to break the junction of the neck and tee, avoiding hitting the neck. Using a hammer drill will speed up the process and improve the quality of work.
4. Remove the toilet. Thoroughly clean the tee from cement.

Installation

Before installing the toilet in the toilet, make sure you have the necessary tools for the job. For dismantling/installation you will need:

• adjustable wrench;
• perforator;
• grinder (or hacksaw);
• chisel;
• hammer;
• putty knife;
• sealant;
• corrugation.

The process of replacing an old toilet includes two stages of development: kit assembly and installation.

Finished products are sold both assembled and disassembled. The model is assembled in strict accordance with the accompanying instructions from the manufacturer.

1. Installation begins with a temporary connection of the toilet to the sewer pipe.
2. After leveling the product, the drilling points are indicated with a marker. Plumbing equipment is disconnected from utilities and removed to the side.
3. The degreased, dried floor is drilled in the marked places.
4. The tiles are drilled with a thin drill.
5. Equipment is being installed.
6. The tank is connected to the water supply through flexible wiring.
7. Operation with water turned on is tested in order to detect possible leaks.
8. The mounting bolts are inserted into the grooves and tightened until they stop.

If the toilet wobbles, the surface is not leveled properly. Treating the base with sealant will help correct the defect.

Now we will show in all details the process of replacing an old Soviet toilet with a new Russian one. Look what we have at the moment:

The toilet is a Soviet type, connected to a cast iron sewer, buried in the floor. We will dismantle this toilet and put a new one in its place.

This three way faucet will be connected to washing machine and a toilet hose. Let's start by removing this old blue toilet.

Removing the old toilet and cleaning it

You can see the numbers on the toilet: 1989 is the year of its manufacture. It is inserted into cast iron sewer. Our task is to break it there in order to remove it from the cast iron, and also to beat it from below in a circle in order to simply remove the toilet from the floor.

At the entrance to the cast iron we hit it with a hammer, and break it from below with a hammer drill.

The old toilet was taken to the trash heap. Now our task is to remove all the debris and free the entrance to the sewer from fragments of the old toilet and cement. We knock out the whole thing with a hammer and chisel so that the cast iron becomes clean.

They knocked out large pieces of the toilet bowl, plus it was sealed with cement and plaster, and cleaned the socket with a knife. The cast iron must be clean, without cement, because the cuff will be inserted here. If you don't clean it completely, the cuff simply won't fit. Try not to get large pieces of what you knock out into the sewer. Small ones are still possible, but large ones can do a lot of things.

Installation of cuff and corrugation

Here's what we bought at the store for work. Firstly, 5 kg tile adhesive to fill the hole from the old toilet. Secondly, the cuff, here is a black transition to cast iron:

We will stuff this cuff into cast iron pipe. There’s also this short corrugation and eccentric cuff:

Let's see which of them is better suited for connection. The fact is that the owners bought this long corrugation:

These are usually sold in stores. If we put it up, the owners will simply press their knees against the door. Maybe the door won't even close. Therefore, we will install either an eccentric collar or an imported short corrugation. Let's see what will be better in our case. We coated the bottom at the entrance to the sewer with sealant so that nothing would leak from there:

Use a hammer to hammer in the black transition collar. After it stands up, you can mount modern communications. This is what it looks like with the cuff:

Now you can insert a 110th plastic cuff directly into this black cuff modern sewerage or corrugation. Everything will be fine. Now let's measure the corrugation.

This is how we will connect the toilet to the sewer:

The eccentric collar fits here fine. We'll push it in deeper and coat it with sealant to make sure - and everything will be fine. The eccentric cuff fits here perfectly to prevent the toilet from moving forward.

Marking and preparing the site for a new toilet

We take a marker and mark where the toilet will stand, as well as the places where we will screw the bolts.

Here are our marker marks. We measure the distance from the line to the toilet hole.

Here is the hole where the bolt will be inserted. We mark them on the floor, where we will drill holes for dowels. We marked two holes, one of them was in the pit.

We have an installation kit that the manufacturer provides for the toilet, that is, two short bolts and two 8 mm dowels.

All this will not suit us. One bolt, which is not in the hole, will still be of sufficient length, and the second, which is in the hole, will definitely be short. Therefore, we will use different bolts and different dowels. We have normal dowels from our stock.

One bolt, which is longer, will be screwed into the hole. Here are two normal dowels, 10 by 70 or 10 by 60. They hold well thanks to the protrusions, do not rotate, and what is good about them is that they have a wide entrance hole, it is easy to get into them with a screw. Now let's start the actual drilling. Since we will be drilling into tiles, and we don’t have drills or drill bits for tiles, we only have a hammer drill, we will drill gradually.

First, a five-point drill, we use it to go through the tiles, but we don’t drill into the concrete. Then a 6 mm, 8 mm drill and final drilling with a 10 mm drill. Naturally, we will drill without beating, so as not to split the tile. Then, when we drill through the tiles with a dozen, we can already drill through the concrete with beating. Let's show stasis the finished result:

The tiles are Soviet, they went through without any problems. Modern tiles can sometimes be very difficult to drill, sometimes you just can’t drill them at all if it’s porcelain stoneware. You can’t take porcelain tiles without a drill on tiles. We quickly drilled everything, installed two dowels, now we need to fill the hole left from the old toilet tile adhesive or whatever you have: cement, cement-sand mixture. This hole is in our way; one side of the toilet fits right into this hole.

It happens that the hole does not interfere, then new toilet they just put it on top. In this case, the hole is very disturbing to us, so we will cover it with tile adhesive. It turned out like this:

The hole was filled with cement, leaving only the place where the screw would be screwed in and where the dowel would be.

Tank assembly

The preparatory stage is completely completed, we are starting to assemble. What does our toilet, the so-called “compact”, consist of?

Toilet fittings, which are installed in the tank, drain and filler:

And the cover:

We need to put all this together, then install it on our bolts that we have prepared, and when the tile adhesive dries, we can use it. Let's start assembling. We take a bag of fittings, this fittings are from Kirov, the so-called “Kirovskaya”. It is of normal average Soviet quality, works for about five to six years, then requires replacement.

Usually the float requires replacement, but the drain can also be replaced.

Let's start with the drain. This part is installed on the tank, screwed on, and the drain valve is simply snapped into it from above:

Fill valve or float:

Bag with all accompanying accessories. Nuts and gaskets for the float, for its installation, this nut is screwed here:

This is a gasket that is placed between the tank and the toilet:

Flush button and mounting kit for attaching the tank to the toilet:

Instructions, passport. Now we will show you how to mount all this fittings on the tank. Here is our tank:

This is a big plastic nut. The gasket comes here, it is inserted from the inside into this central large hole and tightened from below.

Tighten by hand and add a little wrench. This thing then just snaps on top:

Now we need to mount the float. Its installation kit includes a nut that is screwed from below, a gasket for the float itself and this filter:

Insert the filter here:

It will retain rust and various dirt that flies from the water supply. Then we insert the cone gasket with the cone down onto the float:

We insert the float into the hole, it is specially designed for it:

We insert it and secure it with a nut. First we tighten it by hand, then another quarter turn or a little more tighten it with a wrench - and that’s it, the float won’t leak. This completes the assembly of the tank.

Connection between cistern and toilet

The next step is to screw the tank to the toilet. These bags contain an installation kit for connecting the tank and toilet:

We put such a plastic washer on the screw, then we put a conical gasket:

We insert the screw into the tank from the inside into these holes:

We insert it so that the gasket is pressed and water does not leak. Thus we assemble two bolts. Then we move down. We put a rubber gasket on the bottom, then a plastic gasket, and screw it all in with a nut.

The most important thing here is not to over-tighten. If you overtighten, your tank will simply crack, and you will run to the store for a new tank. Now we will show all this. Everything is ready to install the tank, put the gasket here:

It serves to seal the connection between the tank and the toilet. Then we take our two ready-made bolts, which we will use to fasten them from below. We take the tank itself, install it, insert the bolts into the holes, and place them level. If you place them unevenly, the white gaskets may also be placed unevenly, in which case they will leak later.

So, now you need to screw this mounting kit from below:

First we put on the rubber gasket, then the plastic gasket and nut. We support the screw from here, we insert everything here.

There is no need to rush here, this is a responsible matter. The rubber gasket was inserted, the plastic gasket was inserted. Of course, it is better to do this work together, but you can do it alone. We tighten the nut as far as possible by hand, then tighten it with a wrench. Also the second bolt. To tighten the bolts we use regular key 10 mm and tubular wrench 10 mm:

In this case, the bolt heads are 10 mm in size. We do this: we place a regular box wrench on the bottom and tighten it with a tubular wrench on top.

You need to tighten it until the tank stops wobbling. You can’t overtighten it too much, otherwise it will simply crunch. Now we will show what happened in the end. Top view: one bolt, second bolt under the float.

Here is the installed float, installed counterpart for the drain valve. Now the bottom view: the lower part of the float, this is where the inlet hose will be attached:

One bolt with a tightened nut and the second, also tightened:

Make sure the bolts are tightened evenly so that the tank sits level. Here the distance should be the same everywhere, the gasket should be pressed so that water does not flow here.

Toilet installation

We have installed the tank, let's start installing the toilet.

Naturally, our floor is uneven. We spread a little glue along the perimeter of the toilet along the mark to compensate for the unevenness of the tiles.

We take the toilet itself, insert it into the sewer, align it with the marks and screw it on. We press down the toilet a little so that the excess tile adhesive comes out.

This is how we placed it according to the mark, now we need to drive it in and tighten the bolts. It's done like this. Here is a bolt and a gasket so that the toilet does not crack if you overtighten it. Decorative hat on top:

Preparing a long bolt for right side and short - for the left. We are looking for holes to get into the dowels. As we have already said, we have special dowels, they are easy to get into.

Here is the prepared screw, on the other side exactly the same. Screw it on. We have a special tool for this.

Here's a ratchet for quick screwing, with a 10 mm head. There is also a regular 10 mm wrench, which we simply use to reach the right moment.

Connecting the hose and drain fittings

The toilet stands and does not wobble. The final assembly remains. What does this mean?

We connect this hose to a three-way tap:

At the bottom of the tank, we connect it to the bottom of the float, then install the drain fittings, a lid with a button, and a toilet lid:

That's it, the owners can use it. Of course, the cement must dry, this will take about 5-6 hours.

Look what a wonderful toilet it is, how wonderfully and professionally it was installed.

Hydraulic tests

Remained final stage– hydraulic tests. We supply water and check that it is not leaking from anywhere. The leak can, firstly, come from the three-way tap where water is supplied, and secondly, from under the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet, from under the gasket between the tank and the toilet, and from the inlet to the float. Now we will check all this. Open the tap cold water– the toilet began to gurgle and water flowed into the tank. The float worked and the water pressure stopped. We check under the toilet, where we have two bolts. They shouldn't be wet. The floor is dry, the bolts are fine, the water supply is also dry. Now we flush the toilet and check that there is no leakage from behind the toilet, under the toilet and from the front. Nothing leaks anywhere, you can put covers on, and when the cement dries, you can use it. This is how we dismantled soviet toilet, and in its place they put a new Russian one.

All rights to the video belong to: Master Lancaster

Capital or redecorating a toilet room is rarely complete without replacing the toilet, because the reason for this procedure can be not only its deplorable technical condition, but also its obsolescence. At the same time, people are interested in the question of how to change the toilet themselves not only for the purpose of saving money, but for the purpose of personal control of the quality of the operation carried out by hired workers, because A toilet is a rather fragile thing, and its incorrect installation may not be detected at first glance. The skills to independently replace a toilet will also be needed in the event of force majeure circumstances related to the performance of the plumbing.

Preparing to replace the toilet yourself

Before you change the toilet completely yourself, you need to complete a whole range of preparatory measures:

• Turn off the water supply to the toilet tank by turning off the tap on the water main.
• Drain the water from the tank and, if possible, dry it with a washcloth or any towel.
• Now you can unscrew the flexible water supply hose. Be sure to check its dismantling, because... very often it is forgotten when the toilet is moved abruptly, which can lead to unforeseen negative results: interruption of communications, damage to a plumbing fixture.
• We thoroughly rinse the toilet itself and the sewer, and then remove any remaining water in the toilet water seal using any method. If this is not done, then when you remove it, all the “surprises” will be on the floor.
• We free up space for free movement and movement of the toilet, i.e. plan and calculate your path, because the device has no small mass and dimensions.

After checking that there is no water in the water seal and the toilet tank, as well as preparing the tools, you can dismantle the toilet.

Necessary tool

To change the toilet yourself you will need a whole set of tools:

• A set of standard open-end wrenches, in particular, Nos. 10, 12, 13, 14 may be needed. Nuts and bolts of these sizes are used to assemble the tank and fix the toilet.
• Pipe wrench No. 1, pliers and an adjustable wrench for unscrewing water lines.
• In addition, you may need a hammer, chisel and a grinder with a cutting wheel to dismantle metal fasteners and break ceramics.
• On hand you need to have a set of screwdrivers, sanitary sealant, and winding fum tape.

Do-it-yourself toilet dismantling

The toilet is cleaned, the space is freed up, the tools are prepared - this means you can dismantle the old device and install a new one.

• It is recommended to dismantle the toilet by disassembling and removing the tank, which will greatly facilitate the entire structure, so first of all, try to dismantle the water tank, for which you simply unscrew the mounting nuts and carefully remove it. It is worth noting that compact toilets have a fastening at the bottom inside the tank, and older models with the tank mounted to the wall usually have external fasteners.
• Very often, due to the corrosive effects of water, the threads on the fasteners do not want to be unscrewed, so you will have to use various instrument up to simple cutting of fasteners.
• The toilet itself is usually secured with two self-tapping bolts on the base under protective plastic caps, which can be easily removed by prying them off with a screwdriver. Most often, these fasteners are very difficult to unscrew due to moisture, but you must work carefully, because metal tool can easily break the base of the toilet, which can cause its complete destruction.
• Very old methods of installing a toilet with concreting the site and sewer communication sometimes they are forced to completely destroy the device to dismantle it, which is very unsafe. You can try to unfasten the base of the toilet by breaking the tie around the perimeter of the “foot”, and if disassembling the old one is problematic sewer connection The ceramic neck breaks off.
• The main task during dismantling is to remove the device in any way while maintaining the integrity of the sewer lines.

Important: In any case, the operation of dismantling an old toilet often turns into a “punitive operation” of an unwanted plumbing fixture. Wherein Special attention is given to integrity (there should not even be cracks) sewer tie-in, otherwise you will have to replace it with the possible replacement of the entire riser. In addition, it is unacceptable to hit ceramic remains toilet bowl or other large debris into the sewer system. Therefore, hammer blows on cast iron, steel or plastic communications are not allowed, and the walls of the pipe are cleaned carefully, blocking the passage with a large polyethylene plug.

When considering the question of how to change a toilet quickly, but still independently, you must remember that the process itself may take several days, because one thing is replacing a toilet in an already renovated room (i.e., only replacing a similar device), and another thing is This is the refurbishment of a toilet with the installation of another modification of the toilet. Therefore, the installation of a new device can have two outcomes:

1. Simple replacement of plumbing fixtures with similar ones, when the dimensions and design for connecting communications are the same. To put the toilet into operation, it is enough to fasten it to the floor with a specialized set of mounting bolts, install the tank with its secure fastening (do not forget to correctly place the rubber seal), assemble and configure the fittings for automatically filling the tank with water, connect the water supply and sewerage communications.
2. Installation of a new device with modernization requires preparatory work:

• Accurate determination of the installation location of the toilet in accordance with its size and laid communications.
• Checking the quality of the condition of the flooring and its level relative to the sewer connection, i.e. the new one must be laid evenly ceramic tile, wherein sewer pipe the new toilet should be higher or exactly at the level (but not lower) of the sewer riser insert.

It is necessary to check and agree upon the selection of adapters how to connect communications, for which flexible water hoses and sewer adapter pipes with rubber seals. It is necessary to pay attention to the length of communication connectors, which should not be small. To simplify the sewer connection, corrugation is often used.

The end of the process is the attachment of the toilet to the floor and its complete assembly with the connection of all communications. Initial start Organize water by smoothly, partially opening the tap, because Leaks may be detected, which will require immediate shutoff of the water.

Advice: to improve the sealing of communications in areas of prefabricated units, use silicone sealant, just remember that it takes time to cure, so you will have to wait a couple of hours before testing it.

Replacing a toilet is required when the old product becomes unusable. More often, dismantling an old toilet and installing a new one is in demand in older buildings, where all communications need to be updated. Self-replacement The toilet cistern and other parts are not difficult to install. However, it requires basic skills in working with tools (a hammer drill, a drill, etc.) and the ability to fill and lay tiles. Read how to install a toilet in a private house with your own hands and watch the video tutorial below.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling and installing a toilet in a private house or apartment is a familiar task for plumbers, but for ordinary people this procedure can become a real problem.

The question often arises of how to remove a toilet that is out of order. Toilet removal includes:

1. Turning off the water.
2. Disconnecting the cold water supply from the toilet. Dismantling of the flexible connection is carried out using an adjustable wrench. If it is made of metal: cut off a piece of pipe and unscrew it, attach a flexible liner.
3. Dismantling the old device: free the old product from the fasteners (unscrew the screws, knock down the cement).
4. Then you need to drain the toilet by tilting it back a little.
5. Disconnect the device from the corrugation and bell, for which the latter is cut down to required sizes, and install a new corrugation.

In general, this dismantling of the toilet can be considered complete. Dismantling an old toilet is not so easy, since not every product can be easily removed. It happens that the device is already wobbly and can be removed by simply disconnecting it from the sewer riser and from the water supply. But in “Khrushchev” buildings everything is often much more complicated.

Plumbing fixtures often end up embedded in the floor. And it is almost impossible to get it out of there intact, so first they break it. This is how a toilet is replaced in a Khrushchev-era apartment. Many homeowners still do the same. Therefore, the question often arises: how to change a toilet with your own hands?

Replacing a toilet with your own hands requires certain steps and caution. Dismantling a toilet that has served its useful life involves removing the cast iron tee. The latter is equipped with two outlets: 10 cm each for the device itself, 7.5 cm each for other sewer pipes. Since the pipes will be completely replaced with plastic ones, a 5 cm bend will be necessary so as not to install the reduction in a metal tee.

Dismantling the tee is advisable due to its large dimensions. After all plastic product much more compact. Dismantling of the existing tee is carried out with the utmost care, careful loosening and so as not to cause harm to another tee located in the sewer riser. Now you know how to dismantle the toilet or change the product yourself.

Please note: not every leak of the device requires its replacement; often it is enough to change only the corrugation or the tank.

Replacement of individual equipment

Before you remove the old toilet and replace it, check that it may not require complete dismantling. Sometimes it is enough to change only a few failed elements: change the drain, corrugated pipes, tank or fittings.

Let's look at how to install a flush cistern on a toilet if it needs to be replaced:

1. First, the water supply is turned off.
2. Then the water is drained from the tank.
3. After this, unscrew the hose from the valve or tank, and then remove the mounting bolts of the toilet tank.
4. We dismantle the old tank.
5. The installation site of the new drain tank is thoroughly cleaned of any traces of rust.
6. Now the new tank is bolted to the toilet shelf and sealed with gaskets.
7. When the replacement of the old toilet cistern is completed, fittings are installed in it, which is also sealed.
8. IN last resort A flexible hose is screwed to the float valve and the water supply is turned on.

5 simple steps how to change the corrugation on a toilet:

1. First of all, you need to pump out the water from the pipe, lifting it slightly towards the drain.
2. Then you need to remove the old corrugation by removing the dried sealant, cement and the old outlet in the socket with a chisel.
3. After this, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe and outlet from any dirt and debris.
4. Wipe the inner edges of the bell with a dry, clean cloth and apply a sealing solution.
5. Then we apply sealant to one edge of the corrugation and install it all the way into the sewer socket. We put the other edge on the toilet flush and seal all the connections.

That's all the subtleties of installation corrugated pipe on the toilet. If desired, everyone can independently replace it, putting a little effort and diligence into this matter.

Watch a video tutorial on how to replace the fittings in the cistern:

Preparatory work for installation

Regardless of what will cover the floor (tiles or regular screed), you need to wait time for the mixture to dry on the floor surface. This will take about a week. This is due to the fact that the toilet is fixed using fasteners and dowels, which require a reliable and solid base. In this situation, the hardened solution will act as a similar base.

Next, you should prepare those participating in the communication installation process. The area where the drain will be connected must be cleared in advance. various contaminants and salt deposits. Otherwise, it will not be possible to connect the toilet with sewer riser as needed. That is, the corner or corrugation in the outlet cup will not fit tightly, and a leak will definitely appear.

A tap should also be installed at the connection point of the drain tank so that it is possible to carry out repair and cleaning work without completely turning off the water.

DIY toilet installation

Installing, replacing or assembling a toilet yourself consists of the following steps.

1. Before installing the toilet, installation is carried out plastic tee into the sewer riser outlet. This action should not cause difficulties if the outlet glass has been thoroughly cleaned. If the tee is fitted too tightly, it is recommended to lubricate it with any detergent.
2. Next comes installing the toilet in its original position and connecting it using corners or a corrugated hose to the riser outlet. At this stage, it is necessary to evaluate how well it will fit into the bathroom in this position: is there enough space to open the door inside, will it be comfortable for a person sitting. This position is outlined with a pencil or marker. Having marked the points of attachment of the product to the floor surface, the toilet bowl is removed.
3. At the designated points, drill holes for toilet mounting dowels. Usually their sizes are 10-12 mm. It often happens that the kit does not contain a 12 mm drill (the dowels are exactly 12 mm), then you should, without hesitation, boldly change the dowel to 10 mm. A drill with a diameter of 10 mm is used. A 12 mm dowel bolt is also suitable for smaller volumes of parts.
4. Having placed the dowels in the holes, connect the device to the riser. Make a slight tilt of the toilet to the side. Silicone sealant is applied along the previously drawn line, and the installation of the toilet is completed by placing it back.
5. The installed plumbing fixtures are pressed very carefully with bolts to prevent pinching. After this, the bolts are covered with decorative caps.
6. Then the tank is attached to the toilet. The tank itself does not require assembly, since this has already been done at the factory. At the same time, do not forget to use rubber gaskets included in the kit.
7. Tighten the clamping bolts in the toilet one by one. The first is clamped so much that a clear distortion of the tank is felt. Next, press with your hand from above and align, tightening the second bolt.
8. To connect the tank to the water supply, use a high-quality hose. It is not recommended to choose for these purposes rubber products with a metal shell. Rust can corrode the casing, causing the hose to break in this place. It is most advisable to purchase reliable metal plastic or products in metal corrugation.
9. After connecting the device to the water supply, unscrew the tap and wait until the tank is filled. Control the drain.
10. When the drain connections are moistened, the hose or corners are removed and wiped dry. After treating them with silicone, they are put on again.

At this point, the installation or assembly of the toilet with your own hands is considered complete.