It is a product designed for storing and transporting products. Apples, mushrooms, and tomatoes are salted and soaked in them. They sauerkraut and pickle watermelons and cucumbers. There are several types of barrels. Even though they differ in shape, their purpose is the same.

• A tub is an ordinary barrel of a familiar shape.
• Kubelchik are cone-shaped barrels.
• Sudzina - elongated barrels.

Barrels first appeared in Rus' in the tenth century. They were made by coopers. It is interesting that the technology for creating barrels has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries. Despite its apparent simplicity, manufacturing is a rather complex and time-consuming process. Pickling barrels are commercially available, so most people purchase these products when the need arises. But you can make a barrel yourself. This will take a lot of time, but will save money. In addition, by making a barrel yourself, you can be 100% sure of the quality and environmental safety of the materials. You will learn how to make a barrel yourself from this article.

Making a barrel with your own hands: choosing materials

The basis of any barrel is wood. Therefore, the durability of the product will depend on the quality of the selected material. In addition, different tree species have their own unique qualities, which can be both beneficial and negative. Linden and oak are best suited for making barrels.

Oak barrels are used to preserve the taste of pickles and for their preservation. Thanks to the tannins contained in this tree, the products in the barrel are preserved longer and are saturated useful substances. The most common oak species used in cooperage are Russian, Ukrainian and Slavic.

Linden, unlike oak, does not have any effect on stored products. Linden wood is absolutely neutral. But this also has its advantages. Products contained in linden barrels retain their freshness and natural taste. In addition, linden is a natural antiseptic, which ensures longer storage of products. In terms of manufacturing, wood is also more convenient than oak. Its structure is softer, and, as a result, it is easier to process.

Aspen is considered the most unsuitable tree for making barrels. This tree gives foods an unpleasant taste that occurs as a result of storage. The fact is that aspen produces resin over a long period of time. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to make barrels from softwood. In order for barrels made of pine, spruce and cedar to become suitable for storing food, they must be soaked for a long time. But even after such a procedure, a positive result cannot be guaranteed. Once you have sorted out the choice of material, you can move on to the next stage.

Making a tub for pickling at home: making rivets

Before manufacturing these products, it is necessary to determine the height and diameter of the future barrel. This will allow you to accurately calculate required amount rivets. Having decided on the dimensions of the product, you can begin making rivets.

To do this, take a wooden block slightly longer than the future barrel (approximately 2-3 centimeters). The chock is cleared of bark and placed upside down on a solid base. Now it needs to be divided into parts. This can be done in two ways: split or saw. Experts recommend splitting the workpiece. This allows you not to destroy the structure of the wood, which, in turn, guarantees the durability of the product. The wood from which you are going to make rivets must be dry. Then the products are more reliable, in addition, dry wood is better processed.

If you want to make a barrel according to all the rules, the wood intended for staves must be dried for several months. The process must take place in a natural environment. Sun and wind will make the wood stronger. So, let's move on directly to the splitting. Notches are made at the ends of the chock. Then they take an ax, rest its tip against the notch made and, using light taps on the butt, split the workpiece. Please note that the more fibers there are in the wood structure, the more staves you will get. Their recommended thickness should not exceed 20-25 mm.

Then the rivets are planed until they are given the required shape. This aspect directly depends on the shape of the future product. It is recommended to make rivets for the tub rectangular shape, and for a barrel, an oval one, narrowed towards the edges, is more suitable. Next important detail when making barrels it is a hoop. Such elements are located at the top, bottom and middle of the barrel. They can be made from wood or metal. Best suited for these purposes stainless steel. This is a fairly durable material that is practically not subject to corrosion. Steel is cut into strips no more than 2 mm thick. Before starting assembly, the rivets must be steamed. This will make the wood softer and more pliable. This will make working with it much easier. After preparing the material, you can begin assembly.

Pickling barrel assembly technology

Rivets are inserted into the vertical hoop, their ends are fixed using a clamp or other fastening devices. To begin with, you can fix three rivets, and then attach all the others to them. If you calculated everything correctly, the blanks will fit like a glove. Then the middle hoop is filled, and only then the bottom hoop.

After assembling the frame, the bottom of the barrel is inserted. Round blanks, sawn or knocked together like shields, are used as the bottom. When making them, the boards are overlapped and fastened with staples. Insert the bottom into the frame as follows. The outermost hoop is loosened, the bottom is inserted and tightened again. Depending on the design, the barrel may have two bottoms, one of which will act as a lid. In this case, the hoop is loosened from the other end of the barrel and the procedure is repeated. After this, the surface of the barrel is processed with a plane. This is necessary in order to give the product a more presentable appearance, as well as to eliminate all irregularities.

The final stage of making a pickling barrel

After the barrel is ready, you need to harden it. There are many ways, but here we will look at the simplest and most effective. This is roasting. This is how our distant ancestors hardened their products, and, oddly enough, this method remains very relevant today. This option is also suitable for cases where the barrel will be used to store alcohol. The aroma of burnt wood will give wine or moonshine a richer taste and aroma.

This is done as follows. The barrel is placed on its side and sawdust is placed inside it. Sawdust from fruit trees, such as cherry, is best suited. The sawdust is set on fire and the barrel is rolled, this allows the entire inner surface. Please note that the sawdust should smolder, not burn. Lighting an open fire inside a wooden product can cause a fire! In addition, you should not use special liquids to light fires. They include chemical substances, which are absorbed into the surface of the wood. If the barrel is intended for storage food products, then the firing option is not suitable. In this case, it is best to treat the surface of the wood with wax. Thus, the wood will share its healing properties with the products.

After hardening, the barrel should be checked for leaks. To do this, it is filled with water. If the product leaks, do not be alarmed, this is quite normal. The tree will swell and stop flowing. This check takes about 1 hour. If after this time the barrel starts to leak, it means that the rivets are not seated tightly. In this case, it is necessary to find and seal the existing cracks. Experienced coopers recommend using reed stems for these purposes. They are inserted into the cracks and compacted with a knife.

Preparing a barrel for salting

As mentioned above, oak barrels are best suited for storing pickles and marinades. Currently, those housewives who use food storage wooden barrels, they prefer oak. This type of wood helps protect marinades from mold. In addition, oak contains tannin. Thanks to this substance, pickled cucumbers or tomatoes remain crispy and juicy for a long time.

It is recommended to treat the barrel immediately before use. This is very important procedure, on which the quality of pickles and other preparations will depend. Only strict adherence to all tips and recommendations will allow you to delight your family and friends with delicious and juicy home-canned products.

Regardless of whether you made the barrel yourself or purchased it already ready product, the container must be thoroughly washed. This way, you will get rid of the sawdust that remains after making the barrel. In addition, in new products, the concentration of tannins is quite high. And if you place food in such a barrel, it may have an unpleasant taste. In addition, the characteristic oak smell will interrupt the natural taste and aroma of the products. Rinsing the containers must continue until the water is clean and the smell disappears.

After this, the barrel is usually soaked. The time for this procedure can vary from a few days to 1 month. It is recommended to change the water in the barrel every two days. Some people spend it after soaking additional processing ferry. To do this, the barrel is filled halfway with water with soda diluted in it. Steam is then released through the hose.

Before placing food in a barrel, the inside of the container must be doused with boiling water. This will prevent the wood from absorbing the smell of stored products. Thus, it becomes possible to use the barrel for multiple purposes. And you don’t have to be afraid that the pickles will smell like last year’s cabbage. If products are stored for a long period of time, it is recommended to fumigate with sulfur. This will kill all microbes and guarantee long-term storage of pickles.

When using the barrel for the first time, it is necessary to use more salt when salting. This is due to the fact that some of it will be absorbed by the wood. Optimal storage conditions are maintained in cool rooms. A cellar or basement is best suited for these purposes. But the storage temperature should not be below zero! Sub-zero temperatures Suitable only for meat, cranberries and cabbage.

It is not recommended to place the barrel on the ground. This may cause mold to form. Therefore, it is best to sprinkle the ground under the barrel with sawdust. They will absorb moisture. And place the container itself on a special stand. After each use, the barrel must be thoroughly rinsed with water and steamed. Then it is recommended to dry the container, while avoiding direct sunlight. Drying a barrel in the sun can cause it to dry out.

Some housewives fill the barrel with water between seasons. This is fundamentally wrong. As a result of exposure to moisture, mold and mildew form. If there is no need for a barrel, then the best way its storage will be to keep the container in a cool place. And always empty!

There is one more nuance in using barrels. If the container is intended for storing alcohol or homemade marinades, the container must not remain dry for a long time. If the purpose of the barrel is to store solid products, then it is not recommended to wet it. Only by following all the tips and recommendations for storing and using wooden barrels can you achieve positive result. The container will serve you for a long time, and the marinades stored in it will retain their juicy taste and appetizing appearance. If the process of making a pickling tub with your own hands seems long and tedious, you can buy a finished product from the Alkopribor company. Attentive consultants will help you choose the ideal container for you, which will serve for many years!

Making a wooden barrel with your own hands will allow you not only to save money, but also to get a high-quality elegant product. Wooden barrels were used by our ancestors for pickles, making alcoholic beverages and storing water, which proved their versatility. Therefore, they are still successfully used to this day. How to do wooden barrel so that it is durable and does not leak? What tools and skills are required to make a barrel at home?

If you are determined to achieve your goal and are not afraid that you will have to modify the product to the desired state, then you can make your dream come true and make a wooden barrel yourself. Cooperation is a difficult profession that came to us from past centuries. Today there are few masters of this craft, and there are even fewer highly qualified specialists in the manufacture of barrels, so barrels on free sale are rare, and not everyone can afford the cost of the product.

Tools

To make your first barrel or small barrel, you need to prepare a place in which it will be convenient to work, tools and suitable material. In addition to the carpentry kit needed to make a barrel with your own hands, you need to purchase cooper’s tools:

• a carpentry workbench adapted for the production of barrels;
• long jointer and circular humpback plane;
• a device for planing edges on boards, from which a barrel will be assembled;
• equipment for tightening rivets (post gate, chain tie and frame gate machine);
• staple, plow, staple;
• templates and patterns of our own production;
• clamps made of wood, metal (for assembling the frame of the barrel);
• Morning mat - a device that allows you to cut a morning groove into which the bottom part is inserted.

You need to understand that it is quite difficult to purchase these tools, wood and devices on the market, since almost all coopers make machines and layouts themselves, taking into account their height. This is done by trial and error, no instructions will help.

What you need to know

The main difference between cooperage products is the assembly from pre-prepared wooden planks(rivets). The size and shape of the barrel depend entirely on the pre-prepared boards, the configuration of which is set by the cooper. And the initial quality of wooden barrels depends entirely on the wood chosen. For this reason, it is not enough for a master to have thorough mastery of the instrument. You need to know the intricacies of each type of wood from which wooden products will be made.

An experienced craftsman will not make a barrel for honey from oak blanks, because he knows that in such a container the honey will quickly acquire a completely different aroma and darken. But it is impossible to find a replacement for oak barrels for aging wines and cognac.

The second element is a hoop that tightens all the components of the barrel. It is thanks to the hoop that water does not seep through the joints between the boards. It can be made of metal or wood. As the experience of craftsmen shows, metal hoops are much stronger, and less time is spent on manufacturing than wooden hoops. But some craftsmen still prefer a wooden hoop, giving the barrel a more beautiful look.

Details and principle of product manufacturing

Many people believe that becoming an amateur cooper is very difficult, and dreams never come true. But if you are not used to retreating from your decisions, then you need to decide which option will be your first job.

There are 3 types of products: conical, cylindrical and parabolic. Each corresponds to a certain type of rivet:

1. Products made in the shape of a quadrangle long sides which have the shape of a parabola, are used for dishes with convex edges: barrels or kegs.
2. The cylinder-shaped design is simple. It is easy to make and connect with hoops of the same diameter, but when the wood in such a structure dries out, the rivets cease to perform their functions. This is the main reason why such containers are practically not manufactured.
3. The shape of an elongated trapezoid allows you to get durable dishes when stuffing rivets. Therefore, this type of product is often suitable for making tubs, tubs and other utensils.

As an experimental sample, it is better to focus on a simple small barrel.

Many people are interested in how a regular tub is made. The tub is the simplest cooper's product; having achieved results in its manufacture, you can move on to more complex species dishes, for example, make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

The principle of creating a product consists of the following stages:

• production of blanks;
• assembling dishes;
• Finishing work.

The reliability of the structure will depend on the quality of the riveting blank, so the most suitable are blanks from logs of sawn wood, chopped with an ax. For barrels, the most common wood choice is oak, as it splits easily in a radial direction. The process of preparing rivets from different breeds trees are practically the same; a single-row or double-row knockout method is used. For large logs, a two-row method is used, and for thin logs, only a single-row method is used.

The procedure for cutting out rivets is as follows:

1. The ridge must be carefully split in half so that the split line runs strictly through the center of the workpiece.
2. Each block must be split in two to obtain 4 equal parts.
3. Next, you need to split the wood for the workpiece in half again to make 8 equal parts. Usually for small logs this is quite enough. It is 1/8 that will become the riveting blank.
4. If the ridge is thick, double-row cutting is used, i.e. each of the 8 parts splits into 2 equal parts along the growth rings.
5. The resulting logs must be split in the radial direction. The result will be 1-2 blanks of smaller size and 2-5 for blanks of larger parameters.
6. Next you need to cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions and young wood from the bark side. Only after this can the workpiece be dried in an open area or resort to artificial drying.

Manufacturing of rivets

In order to make rivets from the prepared material, you must first prepare drawings and a template for a specific product in accordance with the desired shape. To get ready-made rivets, you will need:

1. Perform markup.
2. Make a rough cut of each of the workpieces. Namely, round the outer surface, bevel the edges with an ax.
3. Perform finishing using a planer, constantly monitoring the result with a template.
4. Plane the inside of the workpiece with a humpback staple.
5. Trim the narrow edges and then level their surface with a jointer.

In the process of making barrels, the cooper has to make the tightening hoops himself. The easiest way to get a hoop is from steel tape. To do this, you will need to determine the diameter of the container and add twice the width of the strip to the resulting figure. Next, using a hammer, you need to bend the tape into a ring, drill 2 holes and secure them with rivets. To make a small barrel you will need 2 hoops that will correspond to the diameter of the upper and lower parts of the product.

Bottom assembly and installation

1. Sand the edges of the boards, fix them on the workbench and divide the radius into 6 parts.
2. Within the circle, mark the locations of the studs.
3. Pull out the boards. Drill holes in the edges and drive wooden or metal pins into them.
4. Connect all the elements tightly and secure with pins, after which you can plan the bottom.
5. Cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin.
6. Remove the chamfer with a straight plow and knock down the hoop, loosening the fastening of the rivets.
7. Insert the bottom into the morning and turn the tub upside down.
8. Set siege to the hoop.

All that remains is to make a lid for the tub and, after checking the design for strength, begin to use the container. If you like the work done, it makes sense to continue working on making barrels.

The best brands of cognac, wine, liqueur, rum, and whiskey are aged in wooden containers. IN household barrels, tubs are also rightfully considered best place storage for pickles. In terms of sanitary and hygienic characteristics, they are not much inferior to stainless steel containers, but surpass the latter in a number of quality indicators. Natural material creates a favorable environment for ripening products, giving them original aromatic and taste properties. You can make an oak barrel with your own hands if you carefully read the step by step guide for the manufacture of this desired product.

Professionals high level units, but this does not mean that the work cannot be completed. Manufacturing requirements required capacity others at home. It is enough to make a structure that can withstand moderate loads during operation. The Bondar must have skills and knowledge in the following areas of activity:

• Joinery. Basic operations are performed using techniques and tools used in this matter;
• Basic metalworking skills. They are needed for the manufacture of high-quality, geometrically and technologically correct hoops;
• Basic knowledge of geometry. The shape of the barrel is complex, you need to accurately calculate the dimensions of each part: rivets, bottom, hoop;
• General concepts of heat treatment of wood. In cooperage, it is important to choose the correct hot processing mode during assembly (if the riveting has a significant bend), and then fire the finished product.

In the classic production of wooden containers, no adhesives or metal fasteners are used, with the exception of outer hoops. All connections are made by precise fitting of parts. Slots and gaps that make the product unsuitable for solving the assigned tasks are not allowed. A well-made barrel or tub, after assembly without soaking, should have the required tightness. In some cases, small leaks are allowed if the wood dries out, which can be easily eliminated by moistening and swelling the natural fiber.

Manufacturing principle and details of cooperage products

The technology for producing wooden containers requires precise, step-by-step execution operations, from the selection of raw materials to the decorative finishing of the outside of the product. To make an oak barrel with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of:

• Frame. Assembled from prepared wooden blanks- rivets:
• Hoops. Made from metal strip. The exact diameter is determined in each specific case according to the planned dimensions of the barrel body. Wooden hoops are used less frequently. They are less reliable and more difficult to manufacture:
• Bottoms. Depending on the intended purpose, the container is equipped with one or two bottoms. The part is made using a set of wooden blanks assembled into a single plane, then a circle cut out according to a template with necessary clearance for a tight fit to the barrel body.

It is important to follow the exact recommendations of professionals at every stage of work. It is impossible to make a cooperage product of satisfactory quality without violating even one point of technology. The step-by-step production process is as follows:

• Choice of wood for staves, bottom;
• Drying, testing for suitability, rejecting low-quality workpieces;
• Manufacturing of rivets, bottoms, hoops;
• Barrel assembly;
• Burning;
• Final sanding, decorative finishing of the façade (if necessary).

The geometric dimensions of the riveting in each case are original, depending on the height of the barrel, the degree of bending of the workpiece, its width, and the bevel angle of the end part for a tight fit with the adjacent element. You should accurately repeat the dimensions indicated in the existing drawings, or, having knowledge of the spatial construction of complex figures, independently determine the required values.

How to choose wood

Cooperage products can be made from various types of wood. However, oak barrels are considered the best. The choice is not accidental, since in addition to strength and durability, the material has unique biochemical characteristics to create optimal conditions storage of drinks and food products. Natural substances in oak wood fiber have an antiseptic effect, add to pickles, alcoholic drinks unique taste and aroma characteristics.

Experienced coopers choose raw materials when the tree is still growing. It is specially cut down and subsequently cut into the necessary pieces. The lower part of the trunk is used, on which there should be no branches, visible bumps or bends. Usually it is 4-5 meters from the root, when the plant is at least 100 years old. It is difficult to fulfill these conditions at home if the master is not a native inhabitant of the forest. Therefore, the criterion for choosing wood for staves becomes the visible quality of the fiber. The requirements are:

• No knots:
• Inadmissibility of cross-layering;
• Cracks, natural defects, voids;
• Variety.

People who produce their own wines, or even just pickle cucumbers, know very well that there is no better container than a wooden barrel. Why? Firstly, wood is environmentally friendly pure material, secondly, wines contain alcohol, which means interacting with synthetic materials– plastic or nylon, it can dissolve chemical composition container, and it will be mixed with the components of the wine.

Production process oak barrel not complicated, but it requires strict adherence to instructions, accuracy and attentiveness.

Buying a barrel is not a problem, but if there is a desire and the owner of a home wine factory cares about quality, then a wooden barrel with your own hands will be the main proof that the wine and cognac are made using the right technology. In addition, making wooden barrels is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but without any tricks.

Stages of work

Oak, ash and cherry are considered the most suitable trees for the production of barrels from them.

It is well known that the most reliable material for making wooden barrels is oak. It is suitable for both wines and cognacs, and for pickles. Oak is a natural antiseptic; nitrous oxide and mold will not grow there. But if this is a problem, you can exchange oak for cherry or ash - these trees contain hydrocyanic acid, which will also prevent the development of pathogenic organisms, although their properties are weaker than those of oak. There is no need to be afraid that acid will get into the food: firstly, the barrel is thoroughly soaked before pouring the wines, and secondly, a certain percentage of hydrocyanic acid is contained in the wines themselves; it is not dangerous to the body.

Timber calculation. The boards, called staves, have biconvex sides to give the cooperage product a convexity. To make them like this, you need to take the lower part of a tree trunk and split it, similar to chopping wood. If you cut it carefully, the natural integrity of the fibers will be disrupted, which is bad for such a product. Get started right away figure sawing It’s not worth it - the logs need to be dried for 2 months. And do not dry it under scorching sun, but in a dark, cool room.

Processing logs for future barrels is done using a plane. Giving them the required form, the top and bottom need to be thicker than the middle. How much - the owner will decide. Usually this is 1.5 cm. The movements with the plane intensify towards the middle of the log, then you can get the same shape as classic barrels. Basically, barrels can be given any shape - pot-bellied, log, trapezoidal. The main thing is to do everything right.

Preparation of fastening hoops. They can be either iron or wood. Wooden ones have advantages in beauty and protection against corrosion, but they are not as durable as iron ones, but it will be important for the owner of a wine cellar to protect wines and barrels, including from mechanical damage. Therefore, iron is preferable. So, stainless steel is cut into strips; for better bonding, it can be forged at the points of connection with each other. After this, holes are punched at the ends for nails, which will act as rivets.

Stuffing finished hoops and preparing the frame. Three prepared boards are attached to small-diameter hoops using clamps. They need to be located at the same distance from each other. If the calculation was correct, the remaining boards will fit flush. After complete insertion, using a hammer and a nozzle, you should push the hoops until they can no longer be removed. Tapping from opposite ends can achieve a good effect.

But you can’t overdo it: boards prepared in a long way will crack, and the process will have to start all over again. Prepared dies can also crack due to prolonged drying. This is how one edge of the barrel is prepared. A hoop with a larger diameter must be put on immediately after the first edge, using a hammer. Now it’s the turn of the second edge: the workpiece is steamed for a long time before installing the second end. This is done so that the wood becomes soft and pliable. After this, the workpiece is turned over with the open side up and a rope is thrown over the steamed wood, which is twisted so that the ends of the rivets meet. Without letting go of the rope, you need to put on the hoop. Such work is not done alone - someone twists the rope, and someone puts on the hoop.

Shutdown

When the frame is ready, it is hardened.

There are many ways, mainly roasting. At the same time, the smell and astringency of burnt wood will be transferred to the wine, which will also be appreciated. This is done this way: shavings of some kind are placed inside on the side of the finished frame. fruit tree– Cherry is preferable. Set it on fire and slowly roll it from side to side to ensure even smoldering. There is no need to light a fire inside the workpiece; due to inexperience, you can burn the product. Do not use any lighter fluids - they contain chemical elements, which the tree will absorb. Can be applied blowtorch, but with caution - a strong fire can leave undetected smoldering in the frame, causing the product to burn.

The final stage of creating a barrel is sanding its outside, drilling holes for the fill and cutting a gutter for the bottoms.

Next, the process of making a barrel is as follows: the workpiece is processed with a tool - the uneven ends are cut off, the outside is polished, a hole is drilled for filling and gutters are cut for the bottoms. The bottoms of the barrels are two circles, cut out of the likeness of shields. The boards are prepared as follows: the boards are nailed together overlapping each other and additionally fastened with staples. The circles are sharpened so that their edges go into a bevel. It is necessary to accurately calculate the diameter of the bottoms. This is done after final assembly skeleton, because this cannot be done right away. Then the bottoms are inserted by loosening the outer hoops. After inserting one, you need to fill the hoop again, then do the same with the second bottom.

Checking for leaks. Naturally, the barrel is tested with liquid, that is, water. It will leak at first until the tree swells. The time allotted for the barrel to stop leaking is no more than an hour. If it still flows, you need to find the gap and seal it. Coopers use reed stems for such purposes. They are stuck between the rivets with a sharp and thin object, for example, a knife. In addition, the outside of the barrel can be coated with wax. You just need to take something that is truly bee-friendly - the products should not contain chemicals.

After the production of the barrel is almost completed - it is hardened, fired and tested for leaks, it is steamed or allowed to settle with water so that all foreign odors are removed from the wood, which the wine can take over. You can treat the inner surface of the barrel with hydrogen peroxide or potassium permanganate.

Summarizing

It’s not difficult to make a barrel with your own hands if you carefully follow the recommendations. Caring for it is extremely simple - you need to regularly steam or boil it, and then dry it very carefully if its use is postponed.

Another important rule: If the barrel is intended for liquid products - brines, alcohol or water, then it cannot be left dry for a long time. If it is used for storing dry products, then it cannot be wetted.

To build a bathhouse, you can choose the traditional option - cut down a small one or build a steam room according to frame technology. A sauna - a barrel made with your own hands from specially prepared boards - looks much more attractive and original. Since the method of assembling a house-side structure is of interest to many homeowners, we suggest considering the manufacturing procedure in this article.

Selection of design and dimensions

The building is similar to a barrel not only externally, but also structurally. The structure consists of the following elements:

• end walls round shape, knocked together from tightly fitted boards, are analogues of the bottom and lid of a barrel;
• side walls assembled from longitudinally laid thick boards with special recesses (following the example of a log house);
• external ties made of steel strip or cable, resembling barrel iron hoops;
• stands for horizontal installation assembled body on the ground;
• elements of interior design - stove, shelves, partitions with doors (if necessary).

Steam room, washing room and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel

Reference. There are more complex designs, made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown in the photo below.

The first step is to decide on the project and layout bath rooms– the future dimensions and foundation of the structure depend on this. Please note important point: the side walls are made of solid boards made specifically for the bathhouse, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.

Construction and interior layout barrels are developed depending on the selected type of bath and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:

A beginner who decides to build a barrel-shaped bathhouse on his own is not recommended to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if desired, it can be loaded on a trailer passenger car and take it to a resting place near a pond.

Harvesting lumber

The beams and boards for a bathhouse made in the form of a barrel must be sawn from hardwood– aspen, linden and so on. Of the coniferous species, the use of cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture, is allowed. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.

Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only coniferous species, for the cladding of the upper part of the body, select boards without knots, which are sources of resinous discharge.

To make a barrel-type sauna, purchase the following timber:

• timber with a minimum cross-section of 10 x 10 cm for stands;
• a board 45-50 mm thick and 10 cm wide is used for assembling end and side walls;
• wooden door 0.7 x 1.8 m with a frame (you can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself from timber 50 x 50 mm and boards 2.5 cm thick);
• lumber for the manufacture of shelves and lattice trays.

The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of ​​the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add bars - power jumpers that connect the boards to each other during the panel assembly process.

Side paneling timber is calculated by the circumference divided by the width of the board. Apply a safety factor since the wood must be mortise-and-tongued on a woodworking machine.

Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling bathhouses - barrels of various sizes and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not correspond to their cost.

What else will be needed in the process of building a round bath:

• metal ties – steel cables or stripes;
• fasteners – galvanized screws and nails;
• compositions for external and internal wood treatment – ​​antiseptics, varnishes;
• materials for the manufacture of the roof - shingles, plywood, beams and roof covering(common options are bitumen shingles or corrugated sheet);
• sauna stove of appropriate power, calculated according to the volume of the steam room;
• chimney pipes - sandwich;
• special lamps and switches for baths, non-flammable cables.

If you plan to use the barrel year-round, it is worth making external insulation. Suitable thermal insulation material– mineral wool, polymers are not recommended.

Wood processing

Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - like log cabins, all boards need machining using cutters on a machine, cutting out semicircular grooves by hand is unrealistic. The developer needs to contact a woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the workpieces. Exact dimensions ridges, grooves and profile of the cutter are indicated in the drawing.

To facilitate further construction works Process the trimmed workpieces in advance according to the instructions:

Advice. Cover the surfaces of the workpieces going outside and inside the barrel with different protective compounds. Apply from inside special remedy for baths and steam rooms.

After painting, stack the boards to dry, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to lead correctly preparatory work, look at the video:

Manufacturing of end walls

As mentioned above, a barrel-sauna is made with your own hands from two (minimum) round edge elements connected by profiled cladding boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.

Place 2 support beams on a flat area and begin assembling the rear blank wall in the following sequence:

Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into a shield with two long jumpers. Place 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.

When assembling, the groove of each subsequent beam is put on the ridge of the previous one, as builders of log houses do. This method connection prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Fit the boards tightly; if necessary, use clamps and wedging.

The front wall is made in a similar way, only the base serves door frame. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the beams, having previously secured it to the stands with clamps and aligned the diagonals with a tape measure. To trace the circle, nail a temporary board to the box with the center on it.

After sawing off the excess, sand the ends of both pieces and install the door. It would not hurt to additionally secure the outer boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into the adjacent board bars. How to make the round walls of a barrel-sauna, watch the video:

Instructions for assembling the bath

The structure needs to be assembled locally - it is quite cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the outer walls and partitions. For making, use as much as possible the scraps of materials left over after assembling the front and back walls. One of the design options is shown in the photo.

Installation of the sauna barrel is carried out in the following order:

Important point. A version of a traditional Russian bathhouse with a washing area is installed at a slight slope to the side back wall. A hole is drilled at the lowest point of the floor to drain water.

The finished barrel body should be protected from precipitation so that top part the smaller baths got wet. It is recommended to use the budget method here:

1. Nail flexible wooden strips across the body at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m.
2. Pin sheets of thin plywood to the top of the planks.
3. Cover the improvised base of the roof with bitumen shingles.

If insulation is needed, the shingles are nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and outer surface barrels will increase. You can put it there mineral wool, covered with a diffusion membrane. The procedure for assembling the bathhouse is shown in detail in the next video:

Construction work

Once installation is complete, proceed to interior design barrels. The following work remains to be done in the bathhouse:

1. Do it in the back vent, closed with a lid.
2. Place the oven using a metal stand. Protect the section of the wall behind the stove with fireproof materials - roofing steel or mineralite slabs.
3. Make a chimney from a sandwich pipe by making a hole in the ceiling. Read how to install chimney pipes correctly.
4. Make shelves and a floor drain (lattice tray), attach the elements to the walls.
5. Lay out the electrical wiring, install a bath lamp and a switch.

Under the barrel - Russian bathhouse, it is advisable to dig a pit in advance to drain water through a hole in the floor. There is another way of drainage - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, laid to a storm drain gutter or other place.

Conclusion

If you decide to self-production baths are barrels, please be patient and have plenty of free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building it from scratch. Add time costs to resolve unforeseen delays and problems associated with lack of experience. There is a way to reduce construction time - order a ready-made kit to the craftsmen, and only do the installation yourself.

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