Installation solid board is quite specific and labor-intensive, so even if you are a “jack of all trades,” it would be better to entrust this work experienced specialists. However, it is useful to know the basic nuances of installation: this will allow you to control the quality of work and protect against possible problems with the floor in the future, because most flooring defects arise precisely because of improper installation.
Solid boards can only be laid using rigid fastening to the base using self-tapping screws and glue. This is a reliable and time-tested method that allows you to obtain a stable “monolithic” floor and then repeatedly carry out repair sanding (one of the advantages of solid boards). However, rigid fastening places increased demands on the base and installation quality. And preparation for the installation of a massive board begins long before its purchase.
Preparing the premises
Flooring installation is one of the final stages repair. How less work remains to be done after laying the floor, the less chance there is of accidentally damaging it. All wet work indoors must be completed at least two months before installation begins. The relative air humidity in the room should be between 40% and 60%, and the temperature should be from +18 to +24 degrees Celsius. Solid board is sensitive to parameters environment, therefore it is necessary to strictly maintain them within the given limits.
Preparing the base
Arranging the base of the floor is a responsible and scrupulous process, and all subsequent operation of the solid board depends on its quality. Many problems with wooden floors (for example, creaking floorboards) arise precisely because of a poorly executed base.
The concrete base for the flooring must be dry, level, hard and clean (free from dust). Humidity concrete screed should be within 2-3%. Already at 3-4% humidity it is necessary to use a primer under the adhesive. Permissible curvature of the base: no more than 2 mm per 2 m2 area. Curvature is checked using the two-meter rule or spirit level (“level”). Any differences greater than 2 mm must be eliminated.
Exist different ways laying solid boards (for example, on logs - a method popular in the times piece parquet), but for the Russian climate Amber Wood recommends installation on plywood sheets. To the prepared concrete base plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm is laid. Plywood is sawn into small sheets (no more than 0.5 m x 0.5 m in size), onto which glue is applied, after which they are attached with dowel nails to the concrete base. It is necessary to leave technological gaps of 3-5 mm between the sheets.
After two days, the plywood is sanded, during which the differences between the sheets are also eliminated (the curvature requirements here are the same as for concrete). After sanding, it is advisable to prime the plywood to remove fine dust.
The presence of any type of heating in the base is unacceptable: a “warm floor” will lead to rapid damage to the solid board.
Humidity control
Paul from natural wood places increased demands on humidity not only during operation, but also during installation.
The moisture content of the concrete screed is checked with a special device - moisture meter for concrete, and the relative air humidity in the room is hygrometer. There are advanced moisture meters that can also measure environmental humidity. But a wood moisture meter is not suitable for measuring the moisture content of concrete, even if you set the maximum density of the material in the settings. A high-quality moisture meter is an expensive device, but specialists involved in laying parquet products must have it. If the installers did not measure humidity before starting work, then this is a serious “red flag” that calls into question their qualifications. As for the hygrometer, it is a fairly simple household appliance that is useful to purchase for home use. It will allow you to constantly monitor the relative humidity in the room, which is important for both the health and durability of the wooden floor. There are beautiful wall-mounted hygrometers on sale that will fit perfectly into any interior.
Preparing solid boards
The purchased solid board (delivered in packs, packed in polyethylene) must be allowed to sit for a week in the room where the installation will be carried out so that the wood “gets used” to the conditions of temperature and humidity. At the same time, it is important to resist the desire to immediately open and inspect the delivered boards: it is better to unpack the packs immediately before laying. Then it will be possible to carry out troubleshooting. Never lay boards that are defective or damaged during transportation: they can be replaced or returned, but only before installation begins.
Installation
Typically, a solid board is laid along the incident light (perpendicular to the window), so the floor looks most harmonious. However, if the base is made of wooden flooring, then the floor must be laid across the base boards. “Designer” laying at an angle of 45o is also possible, but it entails excessive consumption of material and very a large number of pruning
The solid board is attached to the plywood base by continuous gluing with a two-component adhesive, which is applied with a special notched trowel.
Additionally, the board is fixed using parquet screws, which are screwed into the base of the ridge at an angle of 45° in increments of 20-30 cm (their caps will hide the boards of the adjacent row). You cannot attach a solid board with glue alone; self-tapping screws are necessary in any case!
The installation of the first row of boards is carried out with a groove to the wall, and fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out through the front surface (so that when installing the baseboards, the caps are hidden). When laying adjacent boards, they are tightly joined transversely and longitudinal directions, if necessary, knocked out rubber mallet and tightened with wedges.
During the installation process, you will probably have to go around various obstacles: for example, heating pipes. In this case, using a jigsaw with a fine file, the sections necessary for bending are cut out in the board, taking into account the compensation gap.
Compensation gap
Due to seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity, a wooden floor expands and contracts, so it is necessary to leave a technological gap (compensation gap) of at least 10 mm between the wall and the adjacent solid board. During the installation process, the gaps are fixed with wedges, and upon completion of the work they are hidden with plinths.
An expansion gap is required not only next to the walls, but also next to any other static structures into which flooring may get stuck when expanding. This door frames, heating pipes, ventilation ducts, pillars and columns, as well as furniture with rigid attachment to the floor (wardrobes, safes, etc.).
Takeoff
Take-off run, i.e. shifting the joint between the boards relative to the adjacent row is a necessary technique both from an aesthetic point of view and from a technological one. The same principle can be observed, for example, in brickwork. For a reliable connection, it is recommended to maintain a separation distance of at least 40 cm.
For convenience, a shift of 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the board is usually used. For example, laying the first row and all subsequent odd rows begins with a whole board, and the second and all subsequent even rows begin with a half or third sawn. Thanks to this, the floor pattern will be neat and symmetrical, and the connection will be strong.
But sometimes you want to deliberately get away from symmetry, especially when laying “Country” type parquet with a pronounced wood pattern and intricate texture. A geometrically adjusted symmetrical run in this case may look boring and inappropriate. For a variegated floor, you can use a run-up without repetition, when the joints of the boards are different rows are not on the same line. The main thing is to maintain a displacement of at least 40 cm relative to the previous row.
Laying the last row and finishing the work
Before laying the last row, it is necessary to measure the distance remaining to the wall: most likely, it will differ in different places due to the curvature of the walls. Therefore, each board of the row must be sawn lengthwise to the required width at the place where it is installed (not forgetting the compensation gap). When installing the last row, there is very little space left to work with. To lay boards near the wall, it is convenient to use a special mounting paw.
The last row of solid boards, like the first, is fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface. After installation is completed, it is necessary to hide the expansion gaps and screw heads with a plinth or fillet of suitable width.
Typically, solid boards are supplied with decorative elements already applied at the factory. protective coating. However, if it still needs to be applied, then this can be done no earlier than 2-3 days after the installation is completed: first, the boards must rest and the glue must fully harden.
Compliance with installation technology is the key to long and reliable operation of the floor covering. A responsible approach to the installation of solid boards in the future will allow you to fully enjoy the benefits of a natural wooden floor and not have problems with it.
Solid boards are strong and durable flooring materials. Outwardly, they look like parquet, but that’s where their similarities end. The main difference is in the structure. The basis of solid boards is natural wood. Due to this, the material is different high performance and presentable appearance.
Solid wood products are laid exclusively on last stage repair work. It is recommended to install them after work has been done to prepare the subfloor, install windows and doors, and putty the walls. It is necessary that before starting installation work the primer, putty on the walls and plaster on the ceiling have dried thoroughly.
When installing the material, it is important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the room. His optimal value is no more than 60%. The installation process of products depends on the base on which they are placed. The technology of laying solid boards has its own nuances.
Characteristics of the product and rules for its selection
Solid boards are made with grooves and ridges at the edges. Thanks to this, the products fit tightly together. On outside solid boards have a chamfer. For this reason, after laying a solid board, small distances arise between the joints. These areas are filled when various damage to the material occurs.
The strength of the material is due to the fact that inside The boards have transverse notches and longitudinal cuts. Thanks to them, the material experiences minimal stress, and the tension of its fibers is reduced. The minimum length of the products is 50 cm, and the maximum is 3 m. The width of a solid board can be from 12 to 20 cm.
Several types of wood are used as the basis for solid wood. The place of origin of the wood does not greatly influence the technology of laying the material on the floor. Greater value has the type of room where the boards are supposed to be placed, and their color. When choosing solid boards, the moisture content of the wood from which they are made is of decisive importance.
The optimal value is considered to be 9% humidity. The maximum allowed value is 12%. A product that is too wet dries out quickly after installation, resulting in gaps appearing between the boards and the connections between them becoming weak.
Types of material
The following wood is used to make solid boards:
- European;
- exotic;
- domestic.
European wood is represented by larch, alder, beech, and ash. These are light breeds. Exotic species include sucupira, hevea, and elm. Oak flooring products are highly durable.
Properties of oak
Its resistance to deformation is higher than that of beech. Oak and ash are excellent as coverings for hallways and corridors where there is constant load on the floor. Solid oak boards withstand temperature changes and humidity changes well.
- kempas;
- kerangi;
- camsha;
- guarea;
- Yarra;
- tompling.
Light-colored species do not tolerate high humidity well, and products made from pears and cherries are considered the most problematic to use. Boards made from such wood require constant monitoring of indoor humidity.
There are several methods by which the array is laid:
- on a screed made of concrete or a mixture of cement and concrete;
- on plywood;
- onto an existing wooden floor.
The first option is used most often. Installation of boards is carried out using glue that can withstand the action high temperatures. The method of laying on a screed made of concrete or a mixture of cement and concrete is suitable for cases where a heating system is to be installed on the future floor.
Before installation, it is necessary to check the quality of the screed for damage. Special attention must be paid to the moisture level of concrete. The normal humidity level is no more than 6%. If it is exceeded, then it will be necessary to cover the concrete with a waterproofing film.
How to mount on plywood?
Laying solid boards on plywood has its own characteristics. The moisture content of the plywood base should be no more than 10%. Before installation, plywood sheets are cut into squares or rectangles measuring 50 by 70 cm.
The sheets are fixed to the concrete base with glue, additionally ensuring a tight fit due to dowels. The edges plywood sheets secured with a pneumatic gun with 30 cm long pins.
Stacked plywood tiles thoroughly cleaned and polished. Solid boards laid on such a base do not require sanding. What matters is the condition of the screed and the tightness of the plywood sheets to the base.
Uncleaned screed and poorly secured plywood sheets lead to disruption of the integrity of the floor and discoloration of the solid material.
The array is also attached to the existing wooden floor. It is important that the old coating does not have cracks or sagging. Before installation, you will need to check the floor for strength and clean it with a sanding machine.
Particular care must be taken to remove the old varnish coating, if any. After cleaning the surface of the old base, you can proceed to laying the array. It is placed in the same direction as the old base.
Laying solid oak boards
Other methods of laying solid wood
In addition to those indicated, apply alternative ways laying solid wood:
- floating method;
- on an adhesive backing;
- on the logs.
If a floating installation of solid boards is used, then it is necessary to control the base and boards. They must be separated from each other. Fastening is carried out using dies of massive boards. It is important that the massive material is not combined with the main coating. If the technology is followed correctly, the floor will withstand severe loads and changes in humidity.
The floating method is ideal for installing floors with underfloor heating. As fasteners for such a floor, it is recommended to use special self-tapping screws with an additional protective coating that prevents the development of corrosion.
The option of mounting on an adhesive backing is considered a new method.
Adhesive backing helps with installation solid wood
It became widespread thanks to the advent of elastinol. This is a one-sided adhesive backing that prevents excessive swelling of the array. It has a number of other advantages:
- has good sound insulation;
- ensures the invisibility of joints between arrays;
- does not require the use of staples or glue during installation;
- ensures heat retention in the room.
Installation of the substrate is not difficult. The substrate is laid on a pre-prepared concrete base with its adhesive side facing the bowls. Then the wooden blocks are laid.
Working with lags
Installing arrays on logs is considered a convenient way when you need to make the floor layer even in a short time. Logs are actively used in the reconstruction of buildings, as well as in the creation of podiums in apartments and offices. For this purpose, logs made of beams are used. Placed under the joists waterproofing coating based on polyethylene. Penofol is also used as waterproofing.
Installation of the base occurs according to the following scheme:
- parallel laying of logs at opposite walls;
- tensioning the threads at intervals of 1.4 m;
- fixing lags along the threads;
- filling the areas between the joists with insulation;
- wood-fiber cloth is laid on top of the logs;
- A massive parquet board is laid on top of the canvas layer.
General installation rules
Solid wood floor boards are laid using a specific technology, which includes the following procedure:
- thorough drying of the floor base;
- creating a flooring from plywood sheets of standard sizes that are highly resistant to moisture and durable;
- laying sheets with a small gap on the base with the obligatory fastening of them with self-tapping screws and dowels (if necessary, glue plywood);
- sanding the laid plywood with a special machine;
- cleaning plywood from dirt and dust;
- laying the array starting from the wall, with a small gap of 7 mm;
- laying the first rows of solid boards without glue with markings to simplify further installation;
- the use of exclusively waterless two-component glue as an adhesive for the array;
- use of regular and notched spatulas when applying glue to the base;
- Having laid massive boards, it is necessary to secure them with screws, for which a pneumatic stapler is used.
After completing the work, you will need to wait until the floor dries.
ABOUT An obvious fact is that covering the floor with small parquet blocks will take much longer than laying a massive board made of a layer of wood. Why, for hundreds of years, builders could not replace a dozen small planks with one large one? It is unlikely that carpenters did not know how to lay a massive board, since the construction of wide products by gluing individual boards was done back in Ancient Greece.
Let's try to figure out why solid wood began to be used as a floor covering only recently, what it is, and, finally, how to lay solid wood with your own hands.
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What is a massive board?
This elite type of flooring perfectly illustrates the statement that what simpler material, the more difficult and more expensive technology for its mass release.
A solid board is simply a plate of hard wood with groove-and-tenon milling along the edges, allowing many such plates to be tightly joined into a single covering. Laying a solid board with your own hands is no more difficult than laying or.
The difficulty of manufacturing lies in the fact that, firstly, the board must be hard enough to resist abrasion and mechanical stress. Secondly, maintain its shape during fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Thirdly, have an attractive appearance, and finally, even an ordinary carpenter should be able to lay solid boards.
This is achieved by:
- Special form. To relieve internal stress, the board has longitudinal cuts on the bottom side - “breaths”.
- Treating wood with varnish, oil or oil-wax mastics, increasing its mechanical resistance. Equally important, such processing exhibits natural texture wood
- A special drying technology does not create internal stresses in the wood, making it even possible to lay solid boards on.
Massive board with “breaths”
To improve the aesthetic qualities of floors made from this material, it is subjected to additional decorative processing.
The board is lightened or, on the contrary, tinted, covered with special ones that do not hide the natural pattern, and artificially aged. Their surfaces are treated with steel brushes (brushing), sharpening, sandblasting, etc. give a different texture. And the production of boards of various lengths allows you to lay out various geometric patterns by laying solid boards.
Laying solid boards on a heated floor
Solid boards are used quite rarely in combination with heated floors, since due to their considerable thickness, they are a good heat insulator.
Solid wood board - absolutely natural, environmentally friendly pure material. In essence, modern solid plank flooring is a throwback to the old wood flooring, but using completely new technologies.
Solid boards differ from ordinary parquet in that they have protrusions and grooves along the perimeter for a tight connection with each other. In addition, due to the increased thickness, a solid board can withstand a greater number of scrapes, and therefore will last longer. By properly laying such a board and periodically caring for it, you can forget about the problem of flooring for many years.
So, you bought a massive board. All that remains is to place it correctly. It seems that this is complicated - measure it and lay it out. But no! Just because you've spent a significant amount of money on coverings doesn't mean you'll have the perfect floor in your home. Laying solid boards requires precision. The work of laying natural floors is fraught with a lot of interesting nuances.
Unlike “floating” laminate, solid boards should not be deformed under any circumstances. This flooring will last forever. Follow our instructions and you'll have beautiful floors for your grandchildren to run around on.
Laying solid boards will require the following tools:
- roulette
- level
- carpenter's square
- pencil
- circular saw or table saw
- spatulas: regular and serrated
- screwdriver
- grinder
- vacuum cleaner
- pneumatic stapler (optional)
- hammer
Materials:
- solid wood glue
- cement mortar for floor screed
- screws and dowels
- plywood
- solid board
Laying solid boards: technology
1. The technology of laying solid boards requires compliance with a number of conditions. In the room where natural wood flooring is being installed, all “raw” work must be completed. Laying begins with preparing the base. The floor must first be leveled with a mortar screed and dried thoroughly. This required condition, since even a small amount of moisture is detrimental to wooden coverings. Please be patient as the drying process can take up to 20 days.
2. The preparation of the foundation is not completed yet. Next, you should line the floor with plywood. It is desirable that it be moisture resistant and dense enough. For example, if the thickness of a solid board is 20 mm, then the plywood must be at least 15 mm thick. Usually plywood has standard sizes 1.5×1.5 m - in this case it simply needs to be cut into 4 parts. If you bought plywood of non-standard dimensions, you are less fortunate; you will have to use your imagination and cut the material.
3. After cutting the plywood into pieces, lay it staggered, leaving small gaps (3-5 mm) between the individual sheets. Secure each sheet with self-tapping screws and dowels along the perimeter and diagonally (about 25 screws per board). For greater strength, plywood can be additionally glued.
4. The plywood laid in this way is sanded with a parquet machine or by hand.
5. Vacuum the floor thoroughly, especially around the joints.
6. Start laying the floor from the wall. To do this, draw a straight starting line along the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap of 5-10mm wide between the wall and the edge of the laid boards.
Lay the first row without glue. The grooves are connected in the same way as laminate.
Measure and trim, if necessary, the last board.
Natural wood floors, even from the same package, will vary slightly in color, texture or pattern. Take it for granted.
Measure the resulting rows again using a tape measure and level.
Unlike laminate, solid flooring cannot be moved once installed. It is also recommended to first lay all “problem” areas without glue.
8. Mark each row with a pencil and disassemble the boards.
You can make a special template that will make it easy to mark the next rows.
9. To glue solid boards to the floor, only two-component waterless glue is used. It is important! Glue on water based may cause deformation of floors. Dilute the glue according to the instructions.
To distribute the glue evenly, use a regular spatula first, then a notched one.
There shouldn't be too much glue.
10. Hammer the resulting rad using a hammer and a wooden blank.
In order not to spoil the front surface of the floor, the blank for tamping can be cut so that it comes into contact only with the bottom of the board.
11. To make the boards stick better, screw them to the floor with small screws or fix them with nails. The screws are screwed into the ridge at an angle of 40-60 degrees. A pneumatic stapler can also be used for these purposes.
12. Lay out the remaining floor in the same way.
13. Wait until the floor is completely dry - it is ready.
We hope that the technology for laying solid boards, described in our master class, will help you get beautiful, smooth floors without cracks or gaps.
The floor covering is installed at the final stage of renovation. All installations must be completed at least two months before the start of installation. interior work, causing an increase in humidity in the room. At the time of installation, the relative air humidity should be 40–60% at a temperature of 18–24°C.
Laying solid boards on a screed without plywood, plank floors or chipboards using a floating method is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is level, strong and dry. It should also be taken into account that heavy furniture can deform the floor.
The presence of a tongue and groove or “Click” lock makes it easy to install solid planks. This allows you to lay the floor "floating" without connecting to the base. You can lay the array yourself, armed with knowledge on the Internet or taking advice from familiar professionals.The advantages of this installation:
- high installation speed;
- the cost of laying solid boards (no need to buy glue and other components);
- ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
- the absence of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of the wood.
For independent conduct Installation requires the following tools:
Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.
IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All interior work must be completed before installing the board.
The basis is required check for moisture. For this purpose, there is a device that measures its performance as a percentage. Ignoring the measurement at the first stage means soon getting:
— fungus (it can easily grow in a humid environment);
- warping (under the influence of dampness, the floor can swell and deform).
The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it was possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed to the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the area under it and if perspiration appears, it means the humidity is increased. German scientists, having conducted such a study, found out: in the place where the evaporation did not come out, the moisture meter showed 6%.
Test of strength will provide a guarantee for long-term use of the coating. You can conduct research yourself:
- Walk around it. It crumbles under your feet, you can feel the sand - the worst option. This screed needs to be redone.
- Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be filled with putty.
- If it is visually flawless, it is worth walking over the screed with a sharp object. An ideal coating will not leave any damage.
For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: compression – 25 MPa, shear – 7 MPa. Accurate indicators will fix the device - the Schmidt hammer, which calculates the shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).
An epoxy two-component primer will help to further strengthen the base.
In addition to strength and moisture, It is worth paying attention to how level the base is. Acceptable rate height difference - 2 mm per 2 linear meters. Deviation from the norm in a larger direction will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter strip or building code(whatever is at hand). They need to be passed along the base and checked for tight fit of the slats to the floor. The identified recesses should be filled with putty, and the protrusions should be sanded.
ATTENTION. After graduation preparatory work debris, sand, dust should be removed. Thoroughly vacuum the surface and prime it. At the exit before laying, the screed must be smooth and clean.
Substrate
The next stage of work is laying the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For “floating installation” the following types of substrates are used:
- made of foamed polyethylene;
- cork;
- rubber;
- fabric.
Temperature and humidity gaps
A natural wood floor laid using a floating method is much more responsive to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have room to “move.” If they are missing, the floor covering will swell. Gaps are left 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 = 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and to prevent displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire contacting area. Afterwards, all the gaps will be hidden under the decorative plinth.
Screed mounting
Before installing the floor, it is necessary for the material to lie in the room for 2–3 days. It is not advisable to open the packaging. A sharp temperature fluctuation will cause the array to change. First of all, you need to cull. Do not lay boards damaged during transportation. They must be returned or replaced before the installation of solid boards begins.
Lay out - from the far left corner deck or diagonal method, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important technologically and aesthetically. 
REFERENCE. The joining seams must be shifted at a certain pitch to strengthen the connections. For an array, the spacing should be at least 40 cm.
The first board is placed with the ridge against the wall. The next boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, knock only on the block. After laying three rows, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet floor. Having planted the board in the center, smoothly move, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to another with glue.
Shutdown
The last row should be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since walls always have a certain curvature, the values will differ. Each board should be adjusted separately by longitudinal cutting until required size at the installation site (remember about expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use a mounting paw. It will help press one board tightly against another.
Remove the spacer wedges and... His should be attached directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor when narrowing or expanding.
On plywood
Necessary materials:
- grinding machine (or wheel);
- electric jigsaw;
- construction vacuum cleaner;
- primer;
- glue for solid boards;
- plywood – 10 mm;
- spatulas (including those with teeth);
- roulette;
- pencil;
- square;
- coating (varnish, wax).
Plywood – good basis for natural boards. It is attached to a screed, joists, or wooden floor. If the concrete base is in poor condition, it must be re-filled to ensure evenness. Allowing time for shrinkage and drying self-leveling screed, sand it thoroughly. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust construction vacuum cleaner. Coat the entire surface with epoxy primer. You should pause for complete drying. 
Cut plywood sheets into rectangular pieces to cover the entire surface. Before installation, for a firm fit of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed. Next, the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.
Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2 -3 mm between the rectangles themselves.
Sand the surface, remove dust, and you can begin laying the solid wood on plywood. Before laying a solid board, the plywood is coated with two-component glue to the width of one board.
Glue
A universal adhesive consisting of polyurethane mixtures and a hardener is suitable. We recommend choosing an odorless, water- and solvent-free glue. Which doesn't cause allergic reactions upon contact with human skin, dries quickly and firmly holds natural wood coverings. German manufacturers adhere to such a high standard. 
- During installation, you must ensure that the ridge fits into the groove, carefully tapping the board along its entire length. To increase strength, each board is secured with self-tapping screws every 25–30 cm. After installation is complete, clean the entire floor surface.
- First, the array should be driven well into the groove, and only then nailed.
- It’s realistic to buy a quality floor cheaper. Must be taken to hardware store untreated board, sand it thoroughly, clean it from dust and apply varnish. At self-processing you can save 25% of the cost of the same material with an already applied coating or buy it.
- For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies onto one board.
CAREFULLY. When installing using glue, you need to be extremely careful. If you put a lot of glue, you can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when you tap the dies with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. They will be “revealed” daylight. It is difficult to remove dried inclusions. A special cleaner will be required. It should be used while working.
- After installation is complete, the natural solid wood floor should remain undisturbed for 24 hours.
- To extend the service life, it is recommended to observe temperature and humidity conditions when operating the premises.
- Use in cleaning special means for care.
- Do not flood the floor with water.
- Place a spring mat under the computer chair.
- Pets (cats, dogs) running across the floor can quickly render it unusable. A durable, improved coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.
Useful video
How to lay solid wood
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