How to create a microclimate in an apartment: a review of the most effective techniques. and water regime

How nice it is to spend a holiday away from the bustle of the city. This is why many people buy a private house or a dacha. No home is complete without garden plot. To make the site happy, it is necessary to carry out a huge part of the landscaping work garden. And here the main thing is not to make a mistake: before designing the site, you should analyze garden microclimate. Analysis of the territory is a prerequisite, as it allows you to get a complete picture of the garden.

How to make a correct analysis of the garden microclimate

So, what should you pay attention to? First you need to conduct a soil analysis. This is done in order to find out the type of soil, as well as its chemical composition. After all, not every type of soil is suitable for agricultural work. Our country is rich in suitable soil types, but some still require careful care and treatment with fertilizers.

For example, clay soil can be fertilized by adding peat or sand, but acidic soil needs the addition of ash. It should be remembered that any type of soil needs compost and humus. It is quite difficult to determine the chemical composition on your own, so this work will be done in a special laboratory.

After determining the type and composition of the soil, you should begin checking the area for the presence of groundwater. They can only be identified in July. This stage of the study is very important for the further improvement of the garden. If the groundwater is about two meters from the surface, then the area can be landscaped with any plants. If the level is higher, then the soil should be drained.

One of the options for soil drainage - This is an additional layer of soil that needs to cover the existing soil. Alternative option- conduct drainage pipes. In this case, water will leave the soil in a given direction.

The next step research is the territory itself. It can be embossed or flat. Here the choice depends on the owner of the site. The relief area looks more impressive, and it can be decorated more interestingly. But in such a territory it will be difficult to create a level platform, since it will be necessary to build auxiliary supports, stairs, and terraces. But if you can handle such a huge amount of work, then you can safely design a garden plot.

A flat area can also be beautifully decorated . With a little imagination, the site will be decorated with artificial mounds or embankments. Such decoration also visually enlarges the garden area. Can be done small pond or a lake, and the remaining land should not be removed, but used specifically to create reliefs - embankments or hills.


Of no small importance for a garden plot there are winds. If the wind speed in the garden is more than 7-8 km/h, then you should think about what plants to plant, since not all species will be able to withstand such a gust of wind.

You should also pay attention to the shape of the site. The most practical are irregular shapes, since they are easier to improve and decorate. There are rectangular, triangular, and trapezoidal areas.

It is necessary to observe the movement of light and shadow in the area. The location of heat-loving plants depends on this.

Each garden has its own microclimate. Sunny, dry, wet, windy, secluded, warm, cold... how can we shape the microclimate of the garden? Is it possible to change it locally and adapt it to our personal needs?

The microclimate of the garden is influenced by both regional and local environmental conditions. Regional conditions boil down to the climate of a given region. Often, when making an entry in the gardener’s calendar section, at the end of the text they make a disclaimer that, for example, the dates they write about may be slightly different for different regions countries and what we can do in Kherson, for example, in mid-March, in Lviv it will be safer only in the first half of April.

We also know that on a climate scale, conditions can vary. This can be due to either human actions or natural conditions, i.e. terrain. For example, the temperature in highly urbanized areas will always be higher (even by a few degrees) than in rural areas, and the humidity is lower. This is the result of the secondary development of the microclimate and is caused by the influence of technogenic factors.

I remember from my training days how they were always complaining about strong winds in some areas of the city, and how windy it was between blocks. Sometimes our teachers gave an example of this area as a place where local gusts of air and aerodynamic characteristics of the tunnel are formed, which in turn leads precisely to sharp gusts of wind even on seemingly windless days.

Human actions influence his environment and often determine the local microclimate. Moreover, if we can change it negatively, then we can also influence its specificity positively. This influence, of course, has its limits. I would define it more like artificial technology the same microclimate.

You already understand what it's about we're talking about. No more, no less, I want to prove to you that you have power. The power of influence on the formation of the microclimate of your environment! The power is limited, but still. And further in the recording I will try to help you understand this power, i.e. this tool.

In order to begin to effectively and correctly use this power, we must have a good understanding of the mechanisms that control the microclimate at the local level. So that each of you can use it in your garden.

Analysis of local microclimate

Undoubtedly, knowing the local conditions of our garden helps. It is important to know exactly what factors are biotic and abiotic, that is, living and nonliving. Because both of them have an impact on the microclimate of a given place.

Analysis of the local microclimate is often included in the design of houses. Its results have an impact on the accepted initial design data. When I enter a given area, I immediately look where the south is, how the sun falls, where the shadow lies, what the relief and its surroundings look like, how the winds blow, etc. I look at a lot of things, but two of them I think are the most important. This:

  • wind;
  • humidity.

This is what they ultimately have greatest influence on the microclimate of a given place. And thanks to their control, this microclimate can ultimately be changed. But in order to change, you need to very carefully determine the method of implementation. This problem could be, for example, too strong wind in a given place.


An example of a garden diagram around a private house: orange - moderate lighting; yellow - strong; blue - shadow.

It rarely happens that we find ourselves on an empty field. As a rule, something grows in a given area. Below is a list of factors and landscaping elements that are especially worth paying attention to in terms of their impact on the local microclimate. You can be aware of their influence both in the context of designing a future garden and using it for an existing one.

  • Fences, fences, walls;
  • Residential and commercial buildings;
  • Gazebos;
  • Small architecture objects;
  • Type of coverage;
  • Reservoirs;
  • Relief: elevations, hills, depressions, ramparts;
  • Terrain exposure, tilt if necessary;
  • Vegetation and in particular hedges, tall trees, vines;

As landscaping elements, they affect the microclimate in the garden

All vertical barriers such as walls, fences, hedges and old trees present an obvious barrier to wind and sunlight. This barrier limits or modifies the influence of these factors to varying degrees depending on its design, height, etc.

In the context of vertical equivalent, there is one important thing to keep in mind. Most often we perceive these partitions as a shield from the wind. However, there is another side to the coin in the literal sense of the word. A barrier like stone fence, has two sides. And if one of these sides is actually protected from the wind, then the other is subject to its accumulation and the formation of various turbulences. Consequently, conditions after a wind-exposed fence are significantly more unfavorable than if there were no barrier at all.

The same is true with the sun. Whether it's a fence or a building, there will generally be more shade on one side than the other. And again, the conditions, as before, will be very different. It is also worth remembering that what can be done on one side cannot be done on the other.

Did you know that from the point of view of improving the overall microclimate of the garden, it is better to create a continuous protective wall. Why? Because it gently dissipates the wind, softening the force of the impact without causing sudden changes in air or congestion. Hedges look great in this role, not to mention a wall of trees. When we go for a walk in the forest on a windy day, the moment we cross its threshold everything becomes silent and the wind loses its strength significantly. Planting trees in our gardens works the same way. Moreover, these living partitions do not cause air stagnation or moisture stagnation during the colder months. It is worth keeping in mind when installing any fences or barriers that too many of them can lead to not very positive consequences.

Another important factor that influences the local microclimate of the garden is the topography. Even on the scale of a small garden, a yard can have this meaning, not to mention mountainous areas or hills where all estates are located on slopes, have a certain slope, and therefore a special microclimate. It has long been known that on the southern slopes the herding begins much earlier than on the northern side. Southern exposure even in micro (for example, on a terrace) is a big bonus for us and our plants, creating much more favorable conditions for development, especially for heat-loving plants.

Did you know that cold air heavier than warm? Yes, yes, that's why we freeze in the valleys. And this also affects the conditions of the garden and private plots. Let's take, for example, the case that we installed a swimming pool, this is a recess in our garden. And what? And the fact that it is there that cold air masses can stop and are located.

Let us now take the question of humidity. Of course, the type of soil, groundwater level and independent terrain features are of primary importance for its parameters. We can influence it, that's obvious. If the humidity is too high, professional drainage or increasing the relief will solve the problem, and if the landscape is too dry, an irrigation system will help. And this is not the end. It is worth noting that, in addition to the obvious issues, water affects the local temperature increase even by 2-3 degrees; for this it is enough to have a garden pond. The water gives off heat, due to which a slight warming is noticeable in the city, especially at night. Currently, this effect on a macro scale can be observed by residents of the coast, especially in autumn near the Black Sea, warmer air gives off heat, softening the temperature and reducing its amplitude (differences between times of day).

I started the article with an example of urban areas, writing that it is a little warmer there. But I didn’t say why, and this is important for both gardens and private plots. Wall coverings, structures, receive heat, which is then transferred environment. The more asphalt, paving stones, concrete, walls, the stronger this insulation effect is, because there are more batteries.

Let us finally take vegetation. Her presence has a huge impact on the local microclimate, both negative and positive. Plants release oxygen, increase air humidity, and release essential oils, reduce its temperature, improve hygienic conditions. As I already wrote, a grassy area can have a temperature lower than a concrete one, up to eight degrees. But only if we compare the lawn with asphalt the difference is shocking, because it is sixteen degrees.

Some trees can emit substances that are harmful to people or other plants. It is worth remembering the other side of the coin. Especially big trees result in insufficient rainfall reaching the base under the crown, meaning unfavorable moisture conditions. Any overlap gives a similar effect.

Transparent garden house,as a local greenhouse method. The house is made of polyethylene film, the most cheap material which will help change the microclimate of the territory.

Conclusion

The microclimate of the garden can be consciously changed to some extent. However, we do not always have such an opportunity. And labor costs are not always commensurate with the result. Therefore, it may sometimes be worth trying to adapt the garden to local conditions, in terms of decisions and species selection. However, knowledge of the rules affecting the microclimate in the garden plays an important role. We use this knowledge not only to make changes, but also during the organization and daily use of the garden to optimize its composition and ease of use.

How to change the microclimate of the garden

So, it's done! You're finally the owner land plot and are now full of bright plans about him miraculous transformation to the Garden of your Dreams. However, before you rush into building and planting, you need to conduct a thorough analysis of the micro-conditions on the land you have purchased.

It is the micro-conditions of the site that have a huge impact on how your garden will look, since even the macro-conditions of a given area cannot be decisive. Here is what is included in the list of required studies:

  • chemical composition of the soil on the site, its change within the garden
  • hydrogeology of the site
  • microrelief and microclimate of the site
  • direction of prevailing winds
  • garden plot configuration
  • the ratio of shadow and light on the site, the orientation of the site

Chemical composition of the soil on the site

Typically, the type of soil on a site corresponds to the types of land most common in a particular region. We have few pure chernozems, and all the rest, including the most convenient for farming, are loamy and sandy loam soils, to one degree or another, need improvement. Of course, in order to have accurate information about chemical composition soil on your site, a soil analysis is required in a special laboratory. But if you wish, you can learn to determine some parameters yourself.

The composition and structure of heavy clay soil can be qualitatively changed by adding sand and peat to it, due to which it becomes looser and lighter. And clay or heavy loam will help to give greater density and viscosity to the soil. Acidic soils need to add lime or ash for digging. Living organisms play an important role in increasing soil fertility: earthworms, various microorganisms, snails. All of them contribute to the improvement of the fertile layer - humus. Not the last place in soil cultivation is occupied by organic fertilizers- humus, compost.

It happens that in the territory of one area the soil is not the same in its physical and chemical properties. For example, there is a small swamp formed in a lowland where groundwater lies high. It makes sense to arrange a natural pond there: this will help lower the water level and make the land suitable for planting ornamental plants.

Hydrogeology of the site

Before planning planting on a garden plot, it is necessary to find out the level of groundwater. It is usually determined in July, since it is directly related to the time of year.

If the depth is 2 m or more, you can safely plant any plants, but if the waters are above this mark, then special drainage measures will need to be taken. As one of the options, you can raise the entire area by bringing onto it required quantity soil. Another option is to install a drainage system, a complex and expensive undertaking. Drainage pipes are laid to a depth of 2 m, but in addition to this, it is necessary to find where to drain excess water.

It is important not to confuse the truly high location of groundwater with perched water. The difference is that the former come from below, and the latter from above. This happens, for example, when snow melts or after heavy, prolonged rains on a piece of land with a dense, impenetrable layer of soil, where water can stand without being absorbed for several weeks. To correct the situation, it is enough to correctly plan the site, which would not allow closed lowlands. You can also lay drainage pipes to a depth of no more than 40-60 cm.

Microrelief and microclimate of the site

Which area is better - flat or embossed? It all depends on what point of view you look at this issue from. From the position of a landscape architect, a relief area is more interesting, colorful, and has more compositional possibilities. But there are also limitations here. For example, you cannot build a sports ground or put tables on slopes - you will have to do terracing, that is, arrange flat surfaces and create differences between them using retaining walls and stairs. And on flat areas, place various objects - gazebos, fountains, playgrounds and other elements of garden design.

An interesting feature of the relief area is that it looks larger in area than a flat one. But a flat area can be completely transformed using geoplastics: build terraces, create hills, and without any additional costs in the form of purchased soil. You can simply use the soil from a pit dug under a pond or under the foundation and create an artificial relief to your own taste.

But whatever the relief is on the site, natural or artificial, do drainage system, most likely you will have to. Drainage will need to be installed along retaining walls and at the base of elevations. Of course, this cannot but affect the overall cost of improvement.

The formation of the microclimate of a given garden plot directly depends on the microrelief of the territory. For example, southern slopes will receive more heat and sun, which cannot but affect the development of plants. The walls of buildings on the south side are also well warmed up by the spring and summer sun, after which they gradually give off their heat to plants planted in close proximity to them. And the northern slopes take longer to warm up, and are also susceptible to the influence of cold northern winds.

Gardens located in lowlands fall into so-called “cold pockets”, and a rather harsh microclimate is formed there. With the help of well-organized plantings, you can create areas with a special microclimate - protected from piercing winds, while being maximally open to sunlight.

A particularly favorable microclimate in the garden can be created using artificial reservoirs or large areas of lawn. They significantly increase the air humidity in the area, which has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants living in the garden. In addition, the water surface reflects sunlight and stabilizes the temperature in the surrounding area.

Large forests and water areas located near the garden plot also influence the formation of the microclimate. The forest zone serves as protection from cold winds, and rivers, lakes, reservoirs and seas influence the level of air humidity, precipitation and temperature stability. The proximity of the city affects the increase in average daily temperatures for a particular area in comparison with generally accepted norms for a given climatic zone.

Direction of prevailing winds

The wind and its direction can have an impact significant influence on gardening opportunities. If the area where the garden plot is located is open to strong winds(7-8 km/h) - this happens in coastal areas, then it will be necessary to take into account that few plants can withstand such gusts. It is not recommended to place solid fences and walls in the path of prevailing winds, as they can be destroyed under their influence or even contribute to their intensification. Much better protection there will be a natural slope or hedge protecting the house and garden from powerful gusts.

Garden plot configuration

The classic shape of a standard garden plot is regular rectangular with different aspect ratios. Irregular ones are much less common - in the form of trapezoids, triangles and other configurations. The most inconvenient shape is considered to be an elongated rectangle: in such an area it is difficult to place any garden objects, especially large ones, primarily a residential building. Therefore, despite the apparent difficulty in organizing space in non-standard areas, such plots are still preferable.

The ratio of shadow and light on the site, the orientation of the site

To correctly place garden objects on a site, you need to have an idea of ​​how it is illuminated by the sun and how shadows from buildings, fences, and trees move across it during the day. This knowledge will help determine the location of the future vacation spot, planting shade-loving, or vice versa, sun-loving plants.

When zoning a site, you need to take into account the orientation of the site to the cardinal points and its shape. So, when a rectangular plot is located with the short side to the north or south, it is recommended to place the garden along one of long sides so that it forms a single area with the neighbor’s garden and does not shade someone else’s garden.

When placing the main object - the house, you should remember that there are few plants that can grow in its shade, so it will be better if it is placed as close as possible to the entrance to the site or, on the contrary, moved to its far end. It is better to orient the facade of the building to the east or west so that all rooms in the house are evenly heated and illuminated. And so that the entire plot receives approximately the same amount of light, it is better to place the house in its southwestern or northeastern corner.

Having assessed in detail all the available factors, you can begin activities to bring your plans to life. It is important to remember that life and gradually acquired experience will periodically make changes to your plans; you should not be afraid of this. The most important thing is that you must adhere to the chosen direction, and the details may well be adjusted during the work process.

The word "climate" is of Greek origin and means slope. The ancient Greeks, not without reason, associated differences in climate with the inclination of the sun's rays to the earth's surface, i.e.- with geographical latitude, which is fundamentally true even from the point of view of modern science.

Now this term is understood as a long-term weather regime characteristic of a given, fairly vast area, due to its geographical location, which is determined by the receipt solar radiation, the state and movement of air masses (winds), and the nature of the earth's surface. The climate is most significantly influenced by: geographic latitude, altitude above ocean level and distance from sea coasts. Its main components are: light, heat, precipitation (direct and condensation), air humidity, wind, evaporation; air composition, atmospheric electric field. The regimes of these factors also play a role, i.e. the change of seasons and weather, which determine the passage of stages of plant growth and development. Climate has a decisive influence on the conduct of everything Agriculture, first of all - agriculture: selection of crops, organization of a set of measures to care for them, etc.

What is climate, preceded by the word “micro”, i.e.- small? These are local, but sometimes very significant local climate changes in a limited, often very small area (for example, on a ridge, where it is significantly different than on a nearby field, lawn, etc.), depending on small forms of relief (hill, ravine, valley, etc.), underlying surface (meadow, clearing, lake, etc.), and other local factors. Microclimatic features manifest themselves mainly in the ground layer of air and soil. In nature, they arise due to unequal processes of heating, cooling, moistening, drying the surface of the area, and the air above it. Depending on the relief, the microclimate of plains, hilltops, slopes, valleys, and basins is distinguished.

Some factors (light, heat, air, water conditions, etc.) act directly on the plant, and therefore are called direct-acting. Other- indirect (slope steepness, altitude, exposure, soil topography, etc.)- affect plants only indirectly, modifying the main factors to one degree or another.

However, there are no sharp boundaries between the two; very often direct factors also have an indirect effect on the plant, i.e. they are also indirect. But indirect ones can never become direct, although the very role of their influence in this case can be very great. For example, when the steepness of a slope changes, the lighting, water and air regimes, as well as the nutritional regime change.

All factors, both direct and indirect, always influence plants together, therefore, their influence on the latter should not be considered in isolation, but comprehensively. Moreover, even the plantings themselves, created by nature or man, in their totality also become an indirectly acting factor, influencing both the surrounding plants and, to an even greater extent, those included in their composition.

Along with the conditions necessary for plants (light, heat, water, etc.), others should be taken into account, which also directly or indirectly affect the condition of the plantings. These include factors such as slope direction, wind, etc. Moreover, their nature and intensity do not remain constant, but change over time, as a result of which the impact of the same factor can be different. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account its influence throughout the year, and even several years. Of the directly acting climatic factors, light has the greatest impact on plants, followed by heat and precipitation. Although this very division of them into primary and secondary, as well as the division of both according to importance, is to a certain extent arbitrary. In addition, it should be taken into account that what is important for plants is not the statistically averaged, but the actual manifestations of climatic factors, primarily extreme ones, i.e. their lack and (or) excess, and only optimal or close to them values- favorable.

Humanity pays special attention to the microclimate precisely because it is not yet able to change the climate (although the first such attempts are already being made), and is only able to adapt to it. But with microclimate, people have been doing this quite realistically, and for quite a long time.

For normal development In plants, two environments play an important role: air, the state of which is determined by such parameters as humidity, temperature, gas composition and illumination; and soil, also characterized by certain temperature and humidity, and, in addition, soil aeration (oxygen saturation) and its chemical reaction(acidity).

The optimal microclimate for each species and even variety of plants will be different. At the same time, ideally, it is desirable to minimize water losses due to evaporation, and should be maintained optimal temperature air and illumination, the gas exchange of soil with air must be balanced, good drainage of the latter must be created, and it itself must be sufficiently warmed up and have an acidity that is optimal for a given type of plant (most often- slightly acidic). Delicate plants of southern origin require more strict adherence to these conditions. Local- are less whimsical and better adapted to a given climate, so compliance with the optimal regime for them may not be so strict.

Air mode. Air- it is a mixture of gases that makes up the Earth's atmosphere. At its surface, it consists by volume of 78.08% nitrogen, 20.05 oxygen, 0.03 carbon dioxide (although the proportion of the latter is quite small,- it is absolutely necessary for all plant life), 0.94% of other gases. In addition, it contains from 0.02 to 4% water vapor, and random impurities- dust, microorganisms, some gases (ammonia, sulfur dioxide, etc.) released into the atmosphere as a result of local emissions. The dust-polluted atmosphere of cities absorbs up to 25% of solar radiation, which greatly reduces the amount of light and heat reaching the earth's surface. First of all, short-wave radiation is lost from this- ultraviolet, to a lesser extent - long-wave (red and orange) more valuable for plants. The dust content in the air decreases very quickly with increasing air humidity.

When air moves horizontally, wind occurs. This phenomenon is based on uneven distribution atmospheric pressure In addition, it is influenced by: the deflecting force of the Earth's rotation, friction forces between the air and the earth's surface, as well as between adjacent layers of air moving at different speeds and in different directions. Wind speed is expressed in m/sec, km/h, or points. Its direction is characterized by that part of the horizon from which it blows- northern, eastern, etc. Wind at low speeds has a positive effect on the growth and development of agricultural plants and promotes pollination of wind-pollinated species. Where the wind prevents strong heating (indirect influence of the air factor), daytime temperatures are lower, and nighttime- higher, which indicates a more even microclimate. This phenomenon to a certain extent protects from ground frosts. Strong winds cause significant damage to agriculture,- causes lodging of crops, devastation in fields, fruit drop, windbreak garden trees, increases the consumption of soil moisture, causes plants to dry out, under its influence dust storms arise, and field work is complicated. In winter, the snow blows away and exposes the soil. It is typical to intensify at this time of year at higher elevations. To combat winds, a system of anti-erosion measures is organized and windbreaks are created. Snow melting occurs due to the influx of warm air masses from the south.

Air, penetrating into the soil, occupies from 10 to 28% of its volume. Its composition in the latter is noticeably different from the atmospheric one,- contains more oxygen and carbon dioxide, and less nitrogen. The best ratio of water and air in the soil is when about 60% of the pores of the latter are filled with water, and 40- air. But some plants develop well with a higher moisture content and, accordingly, less air. Gas exchange between the soil and the atmosphere is based on differences in the concentrations of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the soil, since soil micro- and macroorganisms, in the process of respiration, absorb oxygen and release carbon dioxide, which, in turn, is partially absorbed by the roots, and partly by the roots. passes into the atmosphere where it is absorbed by the leaves.

At the same time, oxygen in the soil air is absolutely necessary for the respiration of plant root systems. In excessively moist soils, where the oxygen content drops below 1%, 5-10% carbon dioxide often accumulates, while microbiological processes slow down, root respiration is disrupted, and compounds harmful to the plant are formed. As a result, the flow of water decreases and nutrients into plants, their growth and development are delayed, and especially severe cases death occurs. Creating a favorable air regime soil improvement is achieved by draining excessively wet lands, timely tillage, and applying organic fertilizers.

Water mode- one of the factors of soil fertility. It depends on the properties of the soil itself (hygroscopicity, moisture permeability, moisture capacity, etc.), macroclimatic and weather conditions, terrain, soil cultivation methods, and characteristics of the cultivated crops.

It consists of moisture input into the soil (precipitation, surface and ground runoff, irrigation water) and consumption (surface and ground runoff, evaporation from the soil surface and plants). The most important component of the hydrological (water) regime is droplet precipitation, mainly rain. In the forest zone, they fall on average about 500 mm per year. Part of the water coming with them- evaporates, part goes with ground and ground runoff, flowing both over the surface of the soil and inside it, feeding rivers, streams, springs, etc. Part of the spring runoff comes from melting snow. This mode is called flushing, since less water evaporates than it enters the soil; its excess, as already mentioned, is removed by runoff. The methods of soil cultivation, accumulation, preservation and rational use moisture. Its deficiency in this zone occurs quite rarely. Moisture consumed by plants is involved in the dissolution and transfer of mineral and organic matter, creation of turgor (maintaining the tension of cell membranes; when it decreases, the plants “lie down” and wither). A huge amount of water is spent on transpiration (evaporation). However, excess moisture can also have a negative effect. For example, if groundwater is located close enough, less than 1.5 m from the soil surface, it has a negative effect on the growth of fruit trees, primarily apple and pear trees.

This can be checked in the middle of summer by standing water in holes and ditches. The fact is that the roots of most cultivated tree species do not tolerate excessive moisture, especially stagnant moisture, since this disrupts soil aeration. Only during the period of snowmelt, when the trees are just waking up, root systems for 2-3 weeks they can withstand flooding with melt water containing a lot of oxygen. But even in this case, such a phenomenon has a harmful effect on their growth and development. The roots must not only absorb water, but also breathe! Otherwise, as a result of flooding, they suffocate and die. In such conditions, it is better to plant fruit trees not in holes, but on hills, high flower beds and shafts.

V. Starostin , candidate of agricultural sciences sciences

(Gardener No. 35-36, 2012)

11.08.2014

Microclimate in garden design - reasonable landscaping of the site.

Each of you has repeatedly heard the phrase about global warming. Perhaps not everyone agrees with this theory, since this summer is striking in its changeability. Temperature fluctuations even in one region, according to the hydrometeorological center, are significant, not to mention the differences between neighboring territories. One thing is certain: the climate is changing. You may be asking how this applies to you and why you decided to write about the weather, the answer is simple. The microclimate in each individual territory is very important, since it will be one of the determining components of your comfortable pastime. Let's discuss what is needed to make your holiday in the garden enjoyable. What tools will help you create comfort, coolness and calm.

Landscape design tools for creating a microclimate.

We hasten to please you that you will not need anything unusual, expensive or supernatural. Everything is simple, as before, we create it using elements that are well known to us:

Trees;

Shrub;

Flowers planted in the form of flower beds, ridges, etc.;

Small architectural forms made of stone, wood, concrete and metal, etc.;

Engineering systems, communications.

Each individual element, as a rule, is not able to solve the problem of heat, excess moisture or, conversely, dry air, or protect completely from solar radiation. But with the correct combination of details, it is possible to partially influence the microclimate of a particular area. Below Anna will give some recommendations for creating comfort.

Everyone knows that stone and metal heat up in the sun, thereby increasing the overall air temperature. And in winter period they serve as an additional factor lowering the temperature. Keep this in mind when arranging elements using these materials in your garden. Wood used as decorative elements affects the ambient temperature much less. We will talk further about how plants influence them.

Should I choose group or single tree plantings?

According to research, in places where trees grow in groups, even relatively small ones, soil temperatures are more stable. On summer days, thanks to the thick crown, the surface warms up less, thereby maintaining moisture and coolness. While in winter, especially in coniferous forests, the branches restrain the winds and reduce the degree of cooling of the soil, and also prevent weathering.

IN summer periods groups of trees and shrubs increase air humidity by an average of 10% more than if it were a steppe or field. Also, group plantings delay the flow of water from melting snow. Thus, the soil and air among the trees are more humid.

If your site is located in a dry area, consider group plantings. If it is not possible to take large area under trees, arrange them with bushes. Try to shade the area as much as possible. At the same time, if your garden is prone to waterlogging, avoid group plantings, give preference to open spaces and single plantings of trees and shrubs, supplement them low-growing flower beds, discounts and so on.

When planting plants near buildings, take into account the fact that moisture retained by the tree can be adsorbed by the frames and other parts of the building.

What should you consider when choosing plants?

Above I talked about how the density of plantings affects the microclimate of the site, but is that really all that matters? Many plants adapt well to their living conditions. So create garden design You can place the flower in an open space or in the shade. The plant adapts to its environment, although growth and flowering activity will be slightly different. While the differences between a plant in the sun and in dense shade will be striking. Therefore, when choosing trees, you should pay attention to the quality of the shadow created by their crown.

If you have spruce, thuja, oak, catalpa, virgin grapes, ivy and similar plants growing on your site, the shade will be thick. In this case, choose shade-tolerant flowers that are not afraid of wet soil. Openwork shade is provided by various types of maples, willow, willow, wisteria and other plants. This is far from full list green garden abodes belonging to these categories. Before choosing a seedling, seek advice from professionals.

If you want to get a comfortable microclimate in a fairly short time, you can purchase. This allows you to literally receive an element within one year - mature tree, which requires 5 years or more to grow. Thus, using trees, shrubs and other landscaping elements, you can adjust the microclimate of a particular area. Before starting work, we recommend assessing the site, soil, groundwater and other characteristics. This will allow you to more correctly design and create a garden design, and avoid mistakes leading to the death of plants and unnecessary costs.

If you want to make your life much easier without thinking about small details, You can . She will perform a full range of work, create a cozy, comfortable landscape and microclimate on your site.

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