If you have a great desire and need, you can try to make a shower stall with your own hands. Perhaps you want some special cabin, but can't find anything similar in stores? This happens often. For example, such an option as a do-it-yourself wooden shower cabin. It’s always nice to create something yourself, and you can be proud of the work you’ve done! To complete the task, you need to prepare tools, material and reserve time. As a result, you can get a real exclusive and, in addition, save a lot of money.

The advantage of shower cabins in our time is their mobility. That is, such a cabin can be freely dismantled and reassembled in a new location. Old version the shower, unlike them, is stationary. It is precisely such a cabin, with durable tiled walls, that we will talk about in this article, where we will consider the question of how to make a shower cabin yourself and what is required for this.

In fact, this type shower cabins do not need a tray - the water simply pours onto the bathroom floor and is removed from it using the so-called drain. This way you can make a shower without a shower stall.

Therefore, the first thing that needs to be done in the bathroom is waterproofing the floor. This point is especially relevant for apartment residents - water cannot be given a single chance to penetrate to the lower floor. In addition, it is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the walls adjacent to the shower, which also need to be waterproofed to at least a two-meter height.

How to make a shower at home

How to make a shower at home? To begin with, p You need to completely remove the old screed and waterproof it from scratch, laying it in at least three layers. It is enough to cover the walls of the bathroom with bitumen mastic. Then the shower stall drain is installed, and the screed is poured over the entire area of ​​the room. A video on how to make a shower can help you solve this problem.

To make a shower stall base like a tray, you will need a brick. Essentially, a DIY shower stall involves building a small enclosure to prevent water from spreading throughout the entire bathroom. Therefore, it is more convenient to build a cabin in the corner of the room - for this purpose you will need to lay out only one wall and a parapet of small height - about 10 cm. It is better to use brick - it will cost less than plasterboard structures. In addition, a brick wall will be reliable and durable. However, you can always look for photos of shower cabins made of plasterboard if you like this material better.

Let's remember again about waterproofing the floor. But now it must be done directly inside our cabin. The principle here is the same - first bitumen mastic, then two, or even better, three layers of rubberized modern material.

Of course, you can do it the old fashioned way, completely plastering everything internal surfaces premises with cement-sand mortar, adding liquid glass. If you still decide to do waterproofing using modern materials, then on the floor on top of it you will need to pour a screed of at least 50 mm thick. Do not forget also about the slope of the floor - the water flowing down it must be directed straight into the ladder.

Shower cabin equipment: water communications

It should be noted that the solution to the question of how to build a shower stall with your own hands has additional benefit- it can be equipped with any equipment that seems suitable to you in the room, including hydromassage or Charcot shower. In this case, you will have to break through the walls for the pipes, and then put in the necessary communications, as well as make outlets in the necessary places to connect the equipment. Do not forget about electrical wiring for lighting the room and arranging forced ventilation. A photo of a homemade shower stall will help you understand the details.

A few words must be said about electrical communications. Electrical wiring should be laid outside the cabin whenever possible, and shower lighting should be designed for 12V. In addition, the wiring must be protected using a differentiated relay (in other words, an RCD)

Shower cabin finishing: materials

Finishing the shower stall begins with preparing the walls, because no tile adhesive will stick to it. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the walls with fine mesh metal mesh, then plaster it. Or waterproof the walls using plaster with the addition of liquid glass - this will solve all the problems at once.

You can also waterproof the walls with modern special dry mixtures, but this is done after plastering. In general, at this stage of work the task is to carefully level the surfaces to facilitate laying the tiles.

There are no deviations as such from the technology of laying tiles and installing plastic panels in our shower stall with our own hands. Is it better to grout the joints between the tiles using a silicone-based sealant, it is more reliable.

There are several cladding variations for the ceiling. Both PVC plastic panels and tiles laid on thin layer glue, and slatted ceiling, and stretch film. Look at a photo of a DIY shower cabin, for example, on the Internet, and decide what suits you best.

Installation of fittings in the shower cabin

You will need to install a faucet, a watering can and, if you decide, Charcot shower receivers - they will have to be made to order - however, such a pleasure will cost no more than a new heated towel rail. Don't forget about soap dishes and other necessary items.

By the way, a good option is a built-in shower cabin made of tiles. In this case, the pallet will be replaced by floor tiles laid at a slight slope with a drain. To get a better look at this option, you can look at a photo of a tiled shower stall. This is affordable and convenient, although, of course, you will need skills in laying tiles and the ability to hide communications under the floor, because the siphon for the shower stall must be hidden under the tiles in any case.

Such a shower cabin is best suited for a private home, where there is more maneuverability, but in an apartment it is better to pay attention to this option: a shower tray and glass curtains.

First you need to select a couple of basic sets (curtains and tray) for the shower stall. If you want to make a shower cabin out of a bathtub, you need to take care of this as well. It is important to take into account the dimensions of the shower cabin with your own hands and the mounting methods. Qualified assistance these questions can be obtained from construction stores or watch a video about a DIY shower cabin.

It would be easy for anyone to do this kind of work. home handyman, if you first prepare a place for installing the bottom.

Before installation you should find out:

• Are the shower walls connected at right angles?
• how tightly the base will be attached to the walls;
• are there any discrepancies between the drain and the sockets of the sewer pipe. It is better to immediately connect the lower part of your structure to the waste pipe.

Cabin curtains

You can optionally purchase different parts of the shower cabin. Combined option, of course, it will look much more original, but it will cost more. One of the interesting options is to install the base yourself and lay out the perimeter of the shower stall with ceramic tiles. You can also buy ready-made shower curtains and install them yourself. For clarity, look for a video about a do-it-yourself shower cabin: this will make the task easier.

With some effort, you can boast of a comfortable and beautiful shower cabin, made by yourself, in the reliability of which you will be 100% sure. We hope our article gave you the answer to the question of how to make a shower cabin yourself.

The main advantage of a shower stall is that it does not have to be installed in a specially equipped bathroom. The shower stall is a compact, fairly isolated device, within which the sanitary requirements for common areas are met. Therefore, a shower cabin can be installed in a room that is not suitable for a bathroom, as long as it can be drained from there to a ventilated sewer riser or to a common lounger. On the one hand, this saves usable living space; on the other hand, if it is sufficient, it gives more possibilities for bathroom equipment and decoration.

The water efficiency of the shower also plays an important role: to wash in it, you do not need to fill the bath with 300-700 liters. As a rule, washing in the shower requires up to 50 liters of water; 150 is already from the heart and with all sorts of effects. However, demand dictates not only supply, but also price: factory-made showers are not cheap. A do-it-yourself shower cabin will cost much or even several times less and can be made in accordance with sanitary standards and rules. The service life of a homemade shower cabin can also exceed that of branded products. Achieving such indicators, of course, takes work, but it is quite possible at home. What and how exactly you need to know, be able to do and do to build a homemade shower stall is outlined in the material in this article.

The main incentive to make a shower stall yourself is, of course, economic. Prices of branded products in Fig. below are comparable to the cost of a small-family prefabricated house or at least a decent city car. If you want a shower room with a sauna, volumetric shower, Charcot shower, etc., then “doing it yourself from scratch” is hardly an option: saving up money for a “company” will be easier and faster than fiddling around on your own. But a homemade shower cabin is simply like a shower, in certain cases replacing a bath (see below), this is a real option without straining your budget and without spending your entire vacation on it.

More advantages

A couple of small additional ones and a huge main advantage of a compact shower stall were deliberately not listed above. The latter may be decisive for independent developers and buyers of open-plan housing.

The typical design of residential buildings goes through many stages until something acceptable emerges, but still there are apartments or houses that are expensive and inconvenient. When non-professionals design their own housing, they almost always end up with a nook or corner, the attempt to use which ruins the entire layout, and the entire cost estimate for construction very, very much depends on it. Homemade shower stalls can be squeezed into any nook or niche, incl. irregular in shape (top row in the figure), or be free-standing with a built-in boiler and waste tank (topmost right); in this case, the drainage after washing is released with a flexible hose.

By the way, the second cabin on the right at the top is from the so-called. Eurocubes, which have now almost completely replaced wall glass blocks. As for additional advantages, firstly, this is the design, bottom left in Fig. Secondly, summer and/or country showers, bottom right. Standard outdoor showers are available for sale, but a homemade one will cost many times less than a “company”, and it is much easier to make than an indoor shower.

What will happen in terms of money, work and time?

There are posts about DIY showers that start like this: “If you can handle a hammer and drill.” This is not enough - to build a shower stall, you need to be at least an average home craftsman who knows the basics of construction, plumbing and concrete works. You also come across materials about homemade showers for 5,000 rubles, see for example. plot:

Video: example of a shower stall with insufficient waterproofing

However, the comments to this video already indicate a flaw in that design: the lack of reliable waterproofing. Without it, the shower itself will last no more than 3-5 years, and the ceiling of the room under the shower is guaranteed to soak. It doesn’t matter how important it is to be your own or your neighbor’s: in terms of money and nerves it will come out about the same. If an incorrectly made shower in your home is above the subfloor, and not above the basement, then the entire floor can rot; if the house is wooden, then its entire structure will become unusable.

But the devil is not as terrible as he is painted. A shower that remains operational throughout the life of at least one generation can be installed both in a private house and in a city apartment, without documentation and obtaining permission, within the cost of 7-8 thousand rubles; country house is 1.5-2 times cheaper. It will take approx. time to build them. 2 weeks, but this takes into account technological breaks. If they are timed to coincide with the work week, then, working on weekends, you can make a shower cabin with your own hands in 1-1.5 months. or less. How? Let's get started.

Device and dimensions

Since we have decided to make a shower cabin ourselves, we will try not to completely deprive it of the functions of a bath: a shower is not enough for a child, she also needs to bathe. at times you need to take a medicinal bath yourself; Sometimes you need to hand wash bulky items that the washing machine cannot handle. Extra space To ensure that the shower does not remain just a shower, you will need a little.

The structure of the shower cabin is shown on the left in the figure:

“Shower without a tray” (see below) is a relative concept: a shower tray is always needed, it just can be recessed flush with the floor. In the center are given standard sizes corner shower cabin with a low tray (also see below). For people of average height, normal build or thin, its dimensions in plan can be reduced to 800x800 mm. If the shower room does not have a tray, then, on the contrary, they need to be increased to at least 1100x1100 mm, otherwise the danger of slipping and falling in the shower increases greatly.

The minimum standard dimensions of a shower cabin with a high tray (also see below) are different, on the right in the figure, otherwise it will be inconvenient to enter and exit it. But a tray of this configuration can already serve as a sit-down bath for adults and is quite suitable for bathing children and hand washing large items.

Designing a shower cabin

Well, one of those tasks that needs to be solved when making a shower stall has already emerged. In general, their complex looks like this (in descending order of importance):

1. Installation of fencing and entrance (curtain or rigid fencing and door);
2. Type of construction (straight, angular) – depends on the location of the cabin in the house/apartment;
3. Choosing an entrance door design;
4. Selecting the height of the tray depending on user requirements for shower ergonomics;
5. Drainage equipment and connection to sewerage;
6. Water supply device;
7. Installation of glazing and doors.

Curtains or doors?

The possibility of installing a shower stall in an unsuitable room is determined by its, so to speak, sanitary self-sufficiency. A shower that splashes onto the floor should only be installed in a specially equipped room or outdoors. Showers with curtains (see picture) always splash and therefore must be installed in a specially equipped bathroom.

An internal curtain in a high-sided shower (on the right in the figure) will prevent splashing standing nearby plumbing fixtures in a small bathroom, but building one outside the bathroom is sanitary and building regulations do not allow. However, in small apartment or in a house with a combined bathroom, a shower with a curtain may be optimal, because... requires much less construction work, and the short distance to the common sewer bed simplifies the drainage system. In all other cases, it is better to give preference to a shower stall with a rigid fence and an entrance door.

Fencing and door

Choice construction material for the fence and shower door it turns out to be quite limited. Conventional sheet materials are unaesthetic, unpleasant to the touch, and in the shower microclimate they are not durable enough, unhygienic and often allergenic. Wood as a shower material in the country or in wooden house we will deal with it further, but for a wooden shower in an apartment it begins long before its manufacture: expensive material requires careful selection, preparation and pre-processing. What remains is glass and similar plastics. In this case, the structures of the fence and shower doors will be mechanically one and must be considered together.

Structurally, a glazed shower cabin can be made straight (items 1 and 2 in the figure), angular rectangular (item 3), faceted (item 4) and with smooth contours, item 5. The doors in any case can be sliding (item 1 and 5) or swing, pos. 2-4.

What kind of door should I make?

Already based on the “from scratch” condition, it is better to refuse sliding doors of a homemade shower cabin: to hang them you need fittings that you cannot make at home yourself. And it will cost significantly more than furniture for the same purpose, because... must work properly in conditions of high humidity and fairly significant temperature fluctuations. For a swing door, you will have to provide free space in the room or increase the size of the shower in plan (if the door opens inward) by approx. by 150-250 mm versus the minimum, but in both cases it is almost always possible to find space for a shower with a swing door.

An additional argument in favor swing door– sanitary and hygienic. In the shower, dirt and grease are washed off a person and fall with splashes from the gaps and grooves of the sliding door suspension. It can work for years anyway, but let’s do an experiment. After just 2-3 months. After putting the shower into operation, take a thin sharp splinter and poke it into the door hanger somewhere below. On the tip there will be a lump of mucus of an indeterminate color. It is strongly not recommended for people who have at least a superficial understanding of microbiology to examine it under a microscope for the sake of peace of mind. And in order to properly clean the sliding door hanger, it will have to be completely disassembled. And so almost every month.

Glass, acrylic or PC?

Glazing and doors can also in all cases be made from:

• Silicate glass.
• Acrylic glass.
• Monolithic polycarbonate.
• Cellular polycarbonate.

Silicate glass is definitely not a “from scratch” option, because... The most expensive parts of the shower will have to be purchased ready-made. Regular window glass is not suitable for a shower - it is too fragile. You will need to take a tempered display case with folded edges (to avoid injury), and parts made from it will cost 1.5-2.5 times more expensive than from a regular one, which is also by no means cheap. In addition, silicate glass is heavy. Shower glazing sheets made from it are needed with a thickness of 10-12 mm. A simple calculation shows that placing the weight load on the ceiling of a shower in silicate glass within the building code is 250 kgf/sq.m. m unrealistic.

Acrylic glass is much lighter and more transparent than silicate glass, but not much cheaper or even more expensive. Theoretically, acrylic glass can be bent with your own hands by heating it above 120 degrees. But practically this is also unrealistic - a specially equipped room that consumes energy is required. technological equipment(heat gun), made with high accuracy template and perfect mastery of the rather complex technology of acrylic bending. At the slightest violation, the workpiece becomes cloudy, bubbles, warps, goes in waves and turns out to be irreparably damaged.

Polycarbonate is less transparent than acrylic and silicate glass and deteriorates when exposed to ultraviolet radiation(UV), which is unimportant for a shower room. Much higher value it has a lower cost and high impact strength - polycarbonate is very difficult to break and can be processed without fear ordinary tool. Monolithic polycarbonate is lighter than silicate glass and a shower can most often be made from it without regard to weight standards, but it can only be recommended for glazing a shower room for those who want the cabin to be visible right through.

Cellular polycarbonate is inexpensive, even stronger and much lighter than monolithic: if you don’t go crazy with the design of the tray, then you don’t have to think about the load on the ceiling of the shower stall. Cellular polycarbonate is translucent: through it only the blurred outlines of a person in the shower will be visible. In addition, cellular polycarbonate is elastic across the direction of the stiffeners and can be mounted, without any technological tricks, bent into a rigid frame (for example, from a stainless steel angle from 40x40x2) with a bend radius of horizontal plane from 600 mm. If the shower stall is straight, then its glazing is made of monolithic polycarbonate with a thickness of 10 mm or more can be made without a top frame (item 2 in the figure above), which greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of work.

The disadvantage of cellular polycarbonate for shower cabin glazing is that its internal channels must be protected from moisture. It can be eliminated by using special framing profiles and silicone glue, see below. For shower glazing, 3-5 layer cellular polycarbonate (with 3-5 tiers of internal channels) with a thickness of 6-8 mm is suitable. Sheets of cellular polycarbonate are mounted so that its internal channels are located vertically.

Note 1: polycarbonate sheets are produced protected on one side from UV and precipitation by a special coating. The protected side of the sheet is marked. It is necessary to cut out the glazing parts of the polycarbonate shower cabin so that their protected sides are inward. Then the shower glazing will last for many years.

So, for now we can draw some preliminary conclusions:

1. We make a faceted shower cabin with a swing door;
2. A cabin with high sides (see figure on the right) does not provide any advantages, because splashes in the shower scatter mainly from the head and shoulders of the person washing;
3. We use polycarbonate for shower glazing. If you definitely want a transparent cabin, then a monolithic one, but best of all a cellular one;
4. If the layout of the room allows, first of all we consider the option of a straight shower cabin - making a straight shower cabin on your own is much easier and cheaper than a corner one, see for example. video:

Video: example of making a simple rectangular shower stall

Pallet and “without pallet”

As already mentioned, a tray with a slope is needed for any shower stall - the water needs to flow somewhere. Showers “without a tray” differ in appearance from the rest only in the location of the side of the tray and the type of its covering. In any case, the drain from the shower is located under the tray, so they also need to be considered as a whole.

A shower tray without a tray may differ in appearance from the surrounding floor only by the presence of a drain grate (item 1 in the figure below). The advantage of a shower without a tray is the ease of access to it. However, statistics inexorably show: greatest number Injuries due to falls in the shower occur specifically in showers without a tray. A person, not seeing a visible barrier or boundary between dry and wet (and slippery) surfaces, does not subconsciously switch the algorithm for coordinating movements, slips and falls.

Note: An “ultra-low” pallet with a height of up to 100 mm is even more dangerous - people often trip over it. Shower cabins with “ultra-low” trays are not produced by industry.

The safest are showers with low trays 120-150 mm high (positions 2 and 3) - they are clearly visible and easily traversed by people with poor eyesight, the elderly, children, and the disabled. A tray with an average height of 200-300 mm (item 4) allows you to create a foot bath in the shower, but it is also not very good in terms of ergonomics and safety. You need to step over the side of a high tray with a height of 400-500 mm, but a shower cabin with a high tray is no more dangerous than a regular bathroom and can serve as one, see above.

Without pallet

A shower cabin without a tray is most likely just a fashion trend. But there are a lot of people who want to make one for themselves, so you should stick around for a shower without a tray.

On the right in Fig. A typical diagram of a shower without a tray is shown:

One of its drawbacks is clear: foam insulation. Granulated polystyrene foam in shower conditions will begin to disintegrate into granules after 2-3 years. Extruded EPS will last a year or two more, and then the concrete that makes up the structure of the pallet itself will begin to crack. Cracks in a surface constantly watered mean dampening of building structures despite any waterproofing. The second and more significant drawback of this design is not so obvious: the height of the entire waterproof pie (5 cm polystyrene foam + 4 cm concrete + 4 cm concrete above waterproofing + 1 cm flooring+ 2 cm for slope for drainage = 16 cm).

Enter the bathroom of a house built according to SNiP; perhaps in yours. You will see that its floor is 3-4 cm lower than the finished floor in other rooms. The fact is that the floor of the bathroom (or combined bathroom), according to construction rules, must be a waterproof bathtub with a capacity of at least 200 liters, so that any spill on the floor does not cause soaking of the ceiling of the underlying rooms.

A typical bathroom floor layout is shown at the top right in Fig. The main floor screed is part of the floor structure. It can only be violated by redevelopment, major repairs or elimination of signs of disrepair of the building. In all these cases, a project, its documentation and permission to carry out work are required. What this burden is worth - those who know, know, and those who don’t know, it’s better not to know.

But a standard floor leaves only 60-100 mm for a drainage device into the sewer from a shower without a tray. The last value is enough to install a shower without a tray with a linear (slotted) drain, see below, but in most cases apartment buildings“without a pallet” will have to be abandoned. If technically there is such a possibility, then you still need to apply for a work permit, because there is no guarantee that the basic waterproofing will not be compromised. In general, poor waterproofing of a shower tray can cause serious damage to the entire structure of the building and should be given the closest attention, see, for example. video:

Video: waterproofing a shower tray

An option for installing a shower stall with a regular round drain without a tray in a private house is shown below on the right in Fig. It must be installed either above the basement into which the house drain is connected to the sewer system, or, in extreme cases, next to the main ventilated riser.

Drainage ladder

The shower drain is definitely not taken from scratch. You need to buy it, because... its operating conditions are specific. The drain from the shower is not fecal, but so-called. gray and. unlike kitchen ones, it is not saturated with solid suspension. But there may be a lot of hair in it, clumps of which can clog the pipes very well. An additional condition is that the drain from the shower may be difficult to access for repairs or may be completely buried in the pan (see below). Therefore, shower drains are made with a built-in slotted water seal, designed specifically for catching hair and fabric lint, as well as cleaning the outside. But other components of household waste immediately clog the slot drain. If, for example, you can still wash mushrooms in the bathtub, then you can’t wash them in the shower.

Round drains (item 1 in the figure below) are available with bottom and side drains. Hairballs are almost never allowed into the pipes; They can be cleaned from above by simply removing the lid. If the outlet pipe behind the drain is still clogged, then without removing the cover it can be cleaned using the usual methods: with a plunger or an air plunger. With the cover removed, the pipe behind the drain can be cleaned with a cable or machine. However, to install a round drain with a side drain, the distance from the bottom of the pallet to the main floor screed is required to be at least 120 mm (taking into account the slope of the outlet pipe), and maybe even 180 mm.

Linear drains (item 2) are available only with a side outlet. To install a linear ladder, you need a downward height of no more than 80 mm; There are 60 mm models, which allows you to use them to create a shower without a tray in your apartment. However, a linear drain catches hair worse than a round one and passes clumps of it into the pipes more often. The plunger and plunger are not applicable in this case; the cable, manual or from a machine, does not pass into the pipe. The only means of cleaning is a manual snake hair extractor. You can cut a snake extractor yourself from a plastic bottle, but the cleaning procedure is disgusting.

With pallet

Now we can draw a second intermediate conclusion, which fully confirms the first: you need to make a shower cabin with your own hands with a tray. “From scratch” in this context implies not only the cost of money, but also specific plumbing skills. But there are different types of pallets: they can be homemade or purchased. There are also several varieties of the latter.

Purchased

Buying a shower tray is, of course, not “from scratch”, but it will save almost all construction work and greatly simplify plumbing. The range of shower trays on sale satisfies any requirements both in terms of cost and functionality.

The most expensive, but also the most practical choice– floor tray with legs, pos. 1 in Fig. below. It can be inserted into a shower stall pedestal, but you can simply frame it with a screen. In this case, a shower drain will not be needed: because... the outlet will be available for repair; you can get by with a regular bath siphon. The glazing made of cellular polycarbonate will fully withstand the screen cornice. Getting to the outlet of a solid acrylic floor tray is more difficult: it needs to be moved away. Therefore, only waste drains can be placed in such pallets. Glazing is also difficult: it requires a lower support belt that is not mechanically connected to the pallet. As a result, it is also difficult to avoid splashing the shower floor.

The optimal option in terms of proximity to “zero” is a plug-in tray, pos. 4, acrylic, stainless steel or enameled. The last two can be turned into a complete analogue of a pallet on legs by welding a support frame for them, pos. 5. You can even insert the pallet directly into the flooring (item 6), but in terms of sanitation and hygiene, this, of course, is far from the best installation method. The most difficult, but most reliable thing would be to install a plug-in tray on a pedestal (see figure on the right), the construction of which in this case is much simplified: there is no need to maintain a slope along the concrete, a single-layer waterproofing is enough in case of leakage, the outlet remains accessible for repairs, and there is room for A glass shower with a drop-in tray will suffice even in a very small bathroom.

Shower tray completely from scratch

In many sources, the process of constructing a shower tray is described at approx. like this: we make formwork (they often forget about waterproofing), put insulation or ballast like brick into it, pour concrete and you’re done. This approach is fundamentally wrong: a layer of non-reinforced concrete with a thickness of approx. from 60 mm it spontaneously cracks even under normal operating conditions. In finished reinforced concrete products, 30-40 mm are left from the ends of the reinforcement to the edge of the monolith. In addition, the slope of the bathtub tray must be maintained within the minimum limits according to plumbing standards - 2-3 cm/m - otherwise the shower room will become hazardous. Have you tried to smooth even very viscous and greasy concrete evenly with a slight slope? Don't try, it won't work. At least “from scratch” in terms of experience in concrete work.

One way to make a shower with a tray “from scratch” is to purchase a set of reinforcing profiles; they will also be beacons for guiding the slope, see fig.:

Prices for special profiles for shower trays are reasonable, and the tray itself turns out “like candy,” completely ready for finishing and glazing. There is only one drawback: the dimensions are standard and it is unlikely to be possible to squeeze the shower into a suitable nook.

Another way is to build a shower stall with a tray using the so-called. Roman reinforcement with rubble stone or brick (ruble concrete with lime mortar was invented by the ancient Romans). Its key stages are shown in the following. rice.:

Please note: since the pallet is being built on the existing bathroom floor (which is very reasonable - all the waterproofing of the floor is preserved), then the waterproofing of the pallet is 3-layer: bitumen mastic + membrane at the bottom and sides, and bitumen again on top of the insulation and ballast. How to build a tray for a homemade shower stall with reinforcing ballast, see video

Video: homemade shower tray

Note: to obtain moisture-proof concrete for the top screed of the pallet bath, add 1/5 - 1/10 volume parts of water-polymer emulsion (WPE) to the mixing water.

Tile or drain?

The exterior finish of a tile shower tray is definitely best option. The tiles used are glazed tiles for bathrooms and/or outdoor use, or porcelain tiles, which are also less slippery for exterior use. Tile adhesive and grout are moisture resistant. The procedure for carrying out the work is the same as for conventional tiling. But as for the surface of the bath tray, tiling it already looks doubtful. Porcelain tiles for public places are still slippery when wet; the tiles are even more so, and the bottom of the bathtub must have a slope. You can add pigments to moisture-proof concrete, but the bathtub will still look unimportant. It would be better to make its sides with a ledge inside and lay a ladder on it for walking; For cleaning and repair, the shower drain is simply removed. The usual slatted shower drain (item 1 in the figure) has practically fallen out of use due to unhygienic conditions: with any impregnation in the shower it becomes slimy and rots.

However, recently it has become available for sale new material wood-based - decking or wood-polymer composite (WPC). WPC has been developed for decking garden terraces and is produced various colors and invoices, incl. under a valuable tree. The durability and hygiene of a WPC shower drain is more than enough. WPC flooring is non-slippery no matter how wet, and when assembling it on standard gluers, 5 mm wide gaps remain between the boards (item 2 in the figure): quite enough for water to drain, but not felt by bare feet.

Drain and outlet

The device for draining wastewater from the shower stall is either difficult to access or completely enclosed. Therefore, it is necessary to apply the rules of plumbing work for its installation with great caution.

At pos. 1 pic. Below are 3 serious mistakes. The first is that a sharp 90-degree bend in the sewer outlet pipe is only permissible vertically. The second is that a 90-degree bend must be accessible for inspection and repair, but here it clearly goes under concrete. Third - although formally the condition of no more than 3 joints or bends per meter of pipe is met, the shower drain is most often clogged with hair. Neither a hydraulic shock nor a pneumatic gun will squeeze out a lump of them from a 90-degree bend, and repeated cleaning of plastic pipes with a cable is strictly contraindicated, both manually and with a machine.

At pos. 2, the 90-degree bend is smooth, made up of several bends, which is acceptable horizontally. But after filling the pan, it will again be inaccessible for repair, and the drainage slope is clearly too small. To prevent the shower drain with its hairy blockages from becoming clogged too often, the slope of the drain pipe needs to be closer to the maximum, 6-7 cm/m.

At pos. 3 slope is correct. The bend of the pipe seems to be the same; 120 degrees once is quite normal. But - pay attention! – linear ladder. After this, the pipe can only be cleaned with a snake, and it does not pass through any bend, because... does not rotate.

The correct arrangement of a shower drain from a cabin with a ladder is shown in pos. 4, but there are nuances here too. Plastic sewer pipes are connected to the seal with rubber cuffs. If the drain goes under concreting, the joint must be additionally caulked with silicone sealant in this way: the supply pipe is lubricated with sealant and a cuff is put on it. Then the cuff is lubricated with sealant and the inlet pipe is inserted into the outlet pipe. Thus, the sealant bead is squeezed out, increasing the reliability of the joint. If you do the opposite, the sealant bead will end up inside and dirt will constantly accumulate on it. And if you first insert the cuff into the pipe, it will most likely become wrinkled when inserting the supply pipe, because fresh sealant is a good lubricant.

The drainage of floor and insert trays is made of thin-walled corrugated pipes. Bending of the sewer pipe is permissible up to 135 degrees and at pos. 1 pic. Below this condition is formally satisfied. But a blockage will constantly appear on the corrugation in the bend. Using a plunger, the hair plug is pushed through with great difficulty and not always, and of the other methods of cleaning sewers for thin-walled corrugated pipes, only one is applicable - disassembling the system.

At pos. 2 corrugations are taken of obviously excessive length and are almost not stretched, i.e. less prone to clogging. Correct angle bends approx. 120 degrees, but there are 2 of them in less than a meter of length. They are oriented in different planes, so such a drain will become clogged even more often than in pos. 1. As for the squiggle with negative slopes on pos. 3, then this is either the fruit of complete inability and misunderstanding, or an outright mockery of either oneself or the customer.

Water supply

For the sake of ease of use and, to a large extent, the aesthetics of the shower stall, it is preferable to make the water supply to it hidden. In this case, the shut-off valves are located away from the cabin in a separate plumbing niche. However, even welded (brazed) propylene water supply is not completely guaranteed against leaks, and control valves are needed in the cabin. Therefore, there is no need to wall up the water supply pipes into the wall, especially since this is a complex and time-consuming job. It is much simpler, although physically still not easy, to select a niche in the wall and, having laid pipes in it, fill it with cellulose insulation (ecowool). Ecowool insulation will not only reduce the idle flow of hot water from a cooled pipe, but will also prevent pests from entering the niche, because Ecowool is produced impregnated with a biocide harmless to humans - boric acid.

The outlet ends of the pipes are brought out with a margin of 10-15 cm. After this, the niche is sewn up with a moisture-resistant (green) plasterboard sheet (GKL). It’s better to do it in pieces, keeping in mind the likelihood of repairs. For the same purpose, the width of the niche is taken such that the seams of the cladding fall on the edges of the gypsum plasterboard tire. Then the wall is plastered and covered. After finishing, the protruding ends of the pipes are cut to size (not flush!), and threads are cut into them for the union nuts-flanges of the mixer. The connections between the mixer inlets and pipes are closed with its standard caps. For repairs, the cutting of the cladding seams and plaster are selected along the edges of the gypsum plasterboard tire and it is carefully removed along with the finishing. In this case, restoration repairs to the cladding are reduced to a minimum.

Glazing and door

As mentioned above, glazing a homemade shower stall with polycarbonate is optimal in all respects. Cellular polycarbonate is also good because its sheet of 2.5 x 1 x 0.024 m can be moved by one person as desired, without the risk of breaking parts or injuring oneself.

To glaze the shower cabin with polycarbonate, you will need to make the upper and lower frames from a stainless steel (better) or galvanized corner, pos. 1 in Fig. below. For cellular polycarbonate, a corner of 30x30x(0.6-1.5) mm is sufficient; for monolithic 40x40x(1-2) mm. If you take a more powerful corner, it won’t be worse. To give the parts greater rigidity and protect the internal channels of the honeycomb material, special edge profiles are used (item 2), which are sold in the same stores and/or by the same suppliers.

The instructions for glazing a shower cabin with polycarbonate are as follows:

• The wings of the upper frame blank are cut with a margin of length equal to the width of the corner flange + 2 of its thickness. There is no need to weld joints at fractures.
• Slots of the same length are made along the corners of the wings of the upper frame.
• The resulting petals (lamellas) on the wings are bent inward to form half-boxes along the edges of the wings.
• Holes for fasteners in the outer walls of the wing half-boxes are drilled in advance in diagonal pairs according to pos. 3 in Fig.
• Mounting holes are also pre-drilled in the parts of the lower frame. For a side panel width of up to 400 mm, 2 attachment points are sufficient; for a width of up to 600 mm – 3.
• The upper frame is immediately and tightly attached to the walls with self-tapping screws from 6x80 in propylene dowels through rubber gaskets from car cameras with a thickness of approx. 1 mm. Excess gaskets are trimmed flush.
• The parts of the lower frame are placed exactly under the corresponding parts of the upper one on a plumb line or a 2-coordinate level with an even rule bar adjusted to the length.
• On the side of the pallet, fastening holes are marked along the parts of the lower frame.
• The parts of the lower frame are fastened into place in the same way as the upper one.
• The side panels are covered with framing profiles according to pos. 4 and 5 fig. Glue with silicone glue; any excess that appears is immediately removed with a clean white cotton rag moistened with table vinegar. The joints of the frame parts at the corners of the panels are at 45 degrees.
• The side frame of the panel on which the door will be hung is not glued solidly, but with gaps for the door hinges, see below.
• The side panels are also glued into place with silicone according to pos. 4 in Fig. and propped up from the walls with thin wooden slats, twigs, planks, etc.
• Take a technical break for 1-3 days or more.
• Cut out the door leaf and profiles for it according to pos. 4 and 5 in Fig.
• The profiles are placed on the door leaf while it is dry, without glue. If they are not held tightly, they are secured with tape.
• They adjust the door to its location. The width of the gaps along its contour is 2-3 mm.
• They hang the door.
• Check the fit and movement of the door again.
• When the door fits perfectly, the profiles framing it are glued on.
• The time the cabin is ready for use is calculated based on the speed of complete setting of the silicone adhesive of 2 mm/day.

It is not necessary to frame the sides of the panels facing the walls. If desired, install a simple box-shaped frame or profile B with a trimmed ridge. But using silicone construction sealant instead of silicone glue is unacceptable! The strength and durability of its seams are not standardized, but with silicone glue they are monstrous. Aquariums of 400 and even 1500 liters, glued with silicone, cost decades and no matter what. But at the same time, the hardened silicone adhesive can be cut with a safety razor blade or a sharp assembly knife, so that the glazing of a shower cabin on silicone is repairable.

Door hinges for shower cabin

Shower door hinges need special hinges for showers. It is better to take self-locking ones, with a built-in ball lock that holds the door in the closed position. For polycarbonate glazing with a door on the middle edge, straight hinges are needed (pos. 1 in the figure), and for a door adjacent to the wall - angular hinges, pos. 2. For a door made of monolithic polycarbonate with a thickness of 20 mm or more or silicate glass, reinforced hinges are required, pos. 3. They all come with installation instructions.

Shower cabin in a wooden house

The load-bearing capacity of wooden floors is small, and it is technically impossible to provide waterproofing on them the same as on concrete ones. Therefore, a shower cabin in a wooden house must be made of the same structure as in a bathhouse, see fig. on right. But reliability residential building should be much higher than the utility room, therefore, firstly, the subfloor and shower purlins must be generously impregnated several times with a water-polymer emulsion until it seeps through. Secondly, make the flooring and wall cladding from decking, but not with standard gluers, but with boards tightly mounted on stainless or (worse) galvanized screws. After assembling the flooring and sheathing, the joints of the boards are sealed with silicone sealant or liquid moisture-resistant assembly adhesive on wood, giving an elastic layer. The so-called ones are perfect for this purpose. liquid Nails. It is an adhesive and a wood sealant at the same time.

At a weekend or summer dacha, an outdoor shower with a drain into the ground and an autonomous water tank would be optimal. IN country house Most often there is no place for a shower and sanitary conditions for its installation, and in case of bad weather, you can wait until you leave for washing or until the weather clears up. Drawings of a country autonomous shower are shown in Fig. (dimensions in inches). It does not need a foundation: the pillars rest on paving slabs, laid on the ground. The peculiarity of this design is the complete absence of moving parts. metal parts(sliding door on a wooden hanger) and minimal contact of fasteners with water.

Heating water in an outdoor shower can be done using a homemade solar collector. It is clear that it is highly desirable to insulate the supply tank with foam plastic. But there is another trick: the locker room or clothes hanger is made on the south side, or the entire cabin, respectively. installed in place. Next, the roof of the locker room/hanger is made sloping and perforated. The inclination angle is taken to be approx. geographical latitude of the place minus 23.5 degrees, i.e. 90 degrees minus the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the summer solstice. The solar collector is placed above the roof of the locker room/hanger with a gap of 30-70 mm (see figure on the right). Then rising from the compartment heated by the Sun will create something like dynamic insulation under the collector. The water heating time will be reduced, and the efficiency of the collector in cloudy weather will increase.

(1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

There are a large number of different shower trays available. They are quickly installed, affordable for the vast majority of users, and quite practical to use. But experienced plumbers do not recommend installing such devices in bathrooms.

1. Construction work is simplified and the amount of unproductive waste of expensive floor tiles is reduced. Marking is much faster; it is possible to completely match the tile joints on the walls and floor.
2. Fewer tiles need to be cut. Due to this, construction time is reduced and, as a result, financial savings are achieved for the customer.
3. The process of cleaning the room is carried out in one step simultaneously with washing the bathroom floors. Most shower trays are made of plastic, which can react negatively with certain cleaning products.
4. The operating time of the shower cabin increases. Over time, all plastics lose their initial ductility and the material becomes brittle. With minor mechanical forces, cracks appear that cannot be repaired. The plastic tray needs to be completely changed, and this is not only a big loss of time, but also money.
5. The comfort and safety of using the shower increases. The floor is located on the same level, there is no need to step over artificial obstacles, which is especially important for children and the elderly.
6. Users can independently adjust the size of the shower. Moreover, change this not just once, but as needed. The space for the shower can be fenced off with a curtain; rehanging it to a new place is no problem.

Cladding the walls of a room does not present any problems; the technology is common and no different from the widely used one. Some difficulties may arise during the installation of floors. Each type of drain has its own characteristics, but there are general recommendations for all.

1. The optimal slope of the floor surface is 1 cm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then the comfort of acceptance is significantly reduced. water procedures, the risk of injury increases.
2. The smaller the size floor tiles, the easier it is to work with it. Please note, not faster, but easier. The fact is that when finishing a floor with a slope, inconsistencies appear at the corners of the tiles; the size of the inconsistencies has a direct relationship with the size of the tile. Experienced professionals strongly recommend using mosaic tiles; they can be used to join areas with different angles tilt And such situations arise when, for various technological reasons, it is impossible to install the water drain exactly in the center of the shower.
3. The water drainage system is in most cases inaccessible for periodic maintenance and repair work. In this regard, it is recommended to be very careful about its installation, strictly follow the manufacturers’ recommendations, and check the tightness of the connections several times.
4. It is much better to start tiling from the drain. If you do it in the opposite direction, the drain may end up in the middle of the tile; it is impossible to cut an even hole in this place. You will have to join in segments, and this is very ugly and indicates the low qualifications of the performer.
5. Always buy building materials with a reserve; depending on the qualifications of the contractor and the complexity of the room configuration, the reserve ranges from 5–10%. Use only quality materials, attempts at excessive savings can cause significant material losses.

The water is removed into a drain or channel. The drain is located approximately in the center of the shower; the channel is installed near one of the walls of the room. As an example, we will look at the most common option for a shower without a tray - the drain (drain) is located in the middle of the shower.

Table. Types of shower drains

shower drains

Marking and preparing the base

This is a very important stage of construction; it is difficult to correct mistakes; you must carefully carry out all recommended operations.

Step 1. Connect the sewer to the location of the shower compartment. For installation, the wall will have to be tapped; the diameter of the pipe for draining water in the shower is sufficiently 50 mm. The pipe exit from the wall should be located in the center of the area; to achieve this position, the plastic pipe should be cut.

Practical advice. You don't need to strive for great precision. The fact is that the socket connection of the elbow makes it possible to slightly adjust the position of the outlet hole. The limits of fine adjustment are ± 1–1.5 cm, this is quite enough to eliminate mistakes.

Step 2. If there is no screed for floor coverings in the room, then determine the level of the zero mark. The front part of the ceramic tile is placed at the zero mark; all dimensions below are indicated with a minus sign. Those on top are indicated with a plus. This applies to all level indications architectural elements During the construction of various buildings and premises, such standards apply in construction drawings.

Step 3. Install the laser level and adjust it so that the beam is in the middle of the sewer pipe located in the wall.

Place the ladder at the intended installation location and adjust its position so that the axis of the inlet pipe is slightly higher than the beam. For example, if it is located at a distance of one meter, then the height difference should be approximately one centimeter.

Practical advice. Don't make the slope too big, the water will drain away just fine. And the large slope of the floor tiles causes a deterioration in the comfort of taking water procedures.

When setting up the ladder, consider the height of the glass when assembled drain device will be slightly higher due to the upper platform. The thickness of the top platform of the glass is approximately a centimeter. Make a mark one centimeter above the beam on the wall; this will be the level of the drain hole of the drain being installed.

Step 4. Make marks above the beam at a height of approximately 2.5 cm to tilt the surface. The mark indicates at what level the ceramic tiles will lie against the wall of the room. The same marks should be made along the entire perimeter of the shower stall. The thickness of the ceramic tiles is within five millimeters; it can be ignored; it will not have any noticeable effect on the quality of the pallet. The total thickness of the screed will be slightly more than twenty centimeters. This indicator needs to be known to determine the amount of cement-sand mortar for pouring and screeding the base.

Step 5. Make marks with a pencil along the beams of the laser level, and then mark lines on them with a rope and blue.

How to make a base

Specific materials and technologies must be selected taking into account the overall thickness of the concrete. In our case, the layer height exceeds twenty centimeters, which is quite a lot. To simplify and reduce the cost of work, we offer the following technology.

1. Up to the level of the junction of the drain pipe with the sewer pipe, you can make a screed from cement-sand mortar with expanded clay. By using expanded clay, the amount of cement is reduced, work is simplified and the floor under the shower is additionally insulated. The solution should be prepared in the following proportions: one part cement, one part sand and two parts expanded clay. Water as needed.
2. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the hardened solution, and on top is a slab of extruded polystyrene foam approximately five centimeters thick.
3. The last layer is a cement-sand screed for ceramic tiles. The thickness is approximately five centimeters, it is advisable to use a semi-dry solution. It is much easier to work with it, it is possible to save materials and time. In addition, such a screed has two more advantages: a low thermal conductivity coefficient compared to ordinary concrete and a short hardening time.

Mark lines on the wall along all layers; there is no point in following them exactly, but such marks will be useful for orientation.

Important. Before pouring the solution, be sure to waterproof the joints between the floor and walls. Use any existing materials and technologies for this. Practitioners recommend using liquid mastics and special waterproofing tapes made of non-woven materials. Their cost is insignificant, and their efficiency is at the appropriate level.

Before starting pouring, you should carry out a set of special construction measures to connect the drain; we will discuss them below. The base must be completely hardened before the top tile can be laid.

How is the drain connected?

Before starting construction work, carefully study what parts the ladder consists of. This knowledge will help you correctly resolve issues that arise during pouring and avoid mistakes when marking.

Step 1. Using a tape measure, determine the exact location of the ladder.

It is advisable to install it in the middle of the shower, but with certain adjustments. We have already mentioned above that the edges of the ladder must rest against the edges of the tiles, otherwise great difficulties will arise when cutting them. And the cut tiles in the center of the floor look very ugly.

Practical advice. If the tiles in the room have already been laid, and only the area under the shower remains to be completed, then the position of the drain must accurately take into account the location of the tile joints.

Cut tiles should be placed near the walls, where they are not so noticeable. If you cannot match the position of the outlet pipe of the drain and the sewer pipe, this is not a problem. Due to the rubber seals, the device can be slightly moved in one direction or another.

Are these adjustments not enough? The problem will have to be solved by bending plastic pipes. How to bend them? Gently heat the plastic pipe with a hair dryer around its entire circumference, constantly monitoring its temperature with your hand. Once the plastic becomes soft, begin to slowly bend the pipe in the desired direction. Make sure there are no sharp bends. Hold the pipe in the desired position until the plastic cools. In order to speed up the cooling process, the pipe can be cooled with a wet cloth.

Step 2. Make formwork for the ladder. It can be made from OSB board, plywood or moisture-resistant plasterboard. Before production begins, temporarily connect the assembled drain to the sewer pipe and install it in place. Take the dimensions of the formwork. The distance between it and the elements of the ladder should be only a few centimeters. This technological distance is required to facilitate final installation ladder

Knock down the formwork with small nails or self-tapping screws; the height of the formwork should be several centimeters higher than the diameter of the pipelines connected to the ladder.

Step 3. Place the assembled formwork on the ceiling, check its position using the lines drawn on the wall. To prevent the structure from moving during concrete pouring, it is recommended to fix it. You can drive several nails or dowels around the perimeter, the main thing is that the formwork does not change its location during work.

Step 4. Prepare cement-sand mortar. If possible, use expanded clay as additional fillers; if not, then fill with one solution. Pour it in turn on each side of the formwork and carefully level the plane with a trowel.

Step 5. Check that the filling is correct and allow time to harden. The time depends on the composition of the solution used; in most cases, work can be continued a day after the end of pouring.

Step 6. When the solution has hardened, dismantle the formwork. To do this, use a hammer to carefully beat off the formwork parts one by one, trying not to damage the fill. If during dismantling it is discovered that the solution has often not reached the minimum strength, stop dismantling and wait another day.

Important. If the room is very warm and dry, then the solution should be moistened generously with water every day. Without water they cannot flow optimally chemical reactions, the solution will never gain the planned strength.

Step 7 Install the ladder in the prepared place and check its position.

Most devices have height-adjustable legs, which greatly facilitates installation of the equipment. Connect the drain outlet pipe to the sewer pipe. The device includes plastic pipe for these purposes. Measure the required length and cut.

You can cut with a grinder with a metal disc or a hacksaw. After cutting, be sure to remove the burrs and make a chamfer. Burrs are cut off with a sharp knife; they can be chamfered with a grinder. Hold it in one hand and carefully press the end of the pipe against the flat surface of the disk with the other. Rotate the pipe constantly until a chamfer is formed. There is no need to be upset if the width of the chamfer is not the same around the entire circumference; this parameter has no meaning. The chamfer is needed only to ensure that the rubber seal is not damaged when connecting the elements. Before joining, the surfaces should be moistened with soapy water or any oil used.

Practical advice. In some models of drains, the pipes are connected with glue, this somewhat simplifies the installation process. There is no need to make chamfers; the ends of the pipes are lubricated with glue and inserted into each other.

Applying glue (on both sides of the pipe)

Step 8 Cover the surface with waterproofing. It can be purchased separately, but there are options for completing devices with waterproofing. Level the surface of the material, be sure to bend it at the junction of the floor and walls. The height of the hem should be 1–1.5 cm lower than the plane of the ceramic tile.

Step 9 Check the connections for tightness. To do this, pour water into the drain hole, wait a little and inspect all connections. The water should completely go into the sewer pipe, and the surface under the drain elements should remain dry.

Step 10 Cut off excess waterproofing taking into account the height of the hem. Make marks at the extreme points and use the end of a mounting knife under the ruler to remove excess. Attach the bends to the wall with waterproofing mastic and allow time to dry completely. The length of the overlaps at the corners must be at least 10 cm.

Step 11 Insert a plastic cup into the drain.

Manufacturers specifically make its height with a margin, which allows, if necessary, to reduce the element. Using a level, determine the slope of the floor plane and adjust the glass to the required height to ensure the required value. Cut with a hacksaw, remove burrs with a file or knife. Lubricate external surfaces glass of oil, put on the rubber O-ring and insert the element into place. Cover the hole with a temporary cover. It prevents the solution from getting inside, and is removed after laying the tiles.

Fastening the glass

Step 12 Place marks on the bent waterproofing that will be used to make a screed for the base of the ceramic tiles. Do not forget about the slope, check the markings several times for correctness.

Step 13 Prepare the screed solution and pour it gradually onto the waterproofing. Use a trowel to level the surface. This is the most difficult operation for beginners. The point is that you need to simultaneously make a slope and divide the square into four identical segments.

How it's done?

1. When leveling the mortar, pay attention to the marks on the wall. This is the first line of control. The second is the edge of the ladder; the screed should be about a centimeter below the upper plane.
2. Using a level, check the horizontality of the screed along all edges of the area, correct deviations if necessary.
3. Using the tip of a trowel, draw straight lines from each corner of the ladder to the corner of the floor. If it’s difficult with your hand, then use any long, straight ruler.
4. Using a trowel, slowly remove the mortar on each segment in small portions, trying to remove any existing curves. Keep in mind that you will have to work by eye, do not rush. If you see mistakes, then sketch out the solution again and start all over again.

Don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t work out the first time, over time you will gain experience and the work will go much faster. At the finish, you can use a special grater; it has one end in the shape of a triangle. If you don’t have such a tool, then select any strip according to the length. The dimensions of the slats should be 1–2 cm smaller than the distance from the ladder to the wall. Place the bar in the center of the segment, let one end rest against the ladder, and slowly move the other to the left/right and level the surface in this way. A small bump near the wall is then leveled with a grater. Everything is fine - leave the base to harden.

Laying finishing tiles

If the base is made with high quality, then there will be no big problems with laying the tiles. Before laying tiles on the floor, finish the areas of the walls adjacent to the floor. The technology is ordinary; to maintain the same width of the tile joints, use standard crosses.

Step 1. First, the second tile is laid. Its angle should lie at a distance of 2–3 mm from the line dividing the square into segments. The distance depends on the width of the seams and is selected in each case individually, taking into account the characteristics of the materials.

Video - Laying tiles in a shower stall

This will require skills in plumbing installation and tiling. But even a novice builder can handle a simple shower on a ready-made pallet. The main thing is to correctly assess your capabilities.

Of course, it is much easier to plan a future shower room in a house under construction. In this case, imagination is almost unlimited:

• construction of a shower room with a sloping floor;
• device for a tray “recessed” into the floor;
• installation of a monolithic pallet with a side;
• installation of a finished pallet;
• connection of a modern shower cabin.

So, to organize a sloping floor, even at the construction stage, its level must be made lower than the floors in the remaining rooms by at least 10-15 cm. The same applies to a shower with a tray, the edges of which are located at floor level - so that you do not have to make a threshold into the bathroom.

If you need to re-equip the shower room in finished house, and there is no way to dismantle the floors, you will have to limit yourself to only the last three “floor” options. Their advantage is undoubtedly - such a shower can be made with your own hands, even without professional skills.

Features of piping in the shower

The second method is much more complicated - first the water enters the collector, and from it separate pipes go to each object - sink, shower, toilet and other appliances. This solves the problem of pressure drop when several water intake points are turned on simultaneously.

Without special skills, it will not be possible to make a collector system correctly, so in houses built with your own hands, they use a series connection. To prevent boiling water from pouring out of the shower when filling the washing machine, it is enough to use pipes of different diameters - 3/4" for common pipe and 1/2” for connecting devices.

Another important point is the organization of drainage from the shower. When choosing a siphon, you need to decide in advance:

When choosing a place for a shower, the distance of the sewer connection is important - if it is more than 3 m, you will have to do deaeration to remove the air coming with the water.

Waterproofing and ventilation of the shower - what to pay attention to

Organizing a shower even in a wooden house is not a problem thanks to modern materials and solutions. So, you can level and protect the walls moisture-resistant plasterboard with mandatory gluing and puttying of joints. The sheets should not reach 0.5-1 cm from the floor. If the walls are concrete or brick, you can immediately begin finishing them.

The waterproofing is applied to the screed and should cover the entire floor, extending onto the walls at least 15 cm. The walls in contact with the shower are also covered with waterproofing.

It can be either mastic or built-up roofing material. Special attention should be paid to the outlets of pipes and electrical appliances. At the junction of walls and floor, as well as at corners, it is additionally glued sealing tape, the edges of which are also rubbed with mastic.

But proper organization of waterproofing in the shower is only half the battle. Constant high humidity, even if it has no effect on facing material, can ruin the most modern bathroom. Therefore, forced ventilation should be provided at the planning stage.

Air direction in ventilation shaft, if it affects and living rooms, should be from “dry” rooms to “wet” ones - the bathroom and kitchen. Otherwise, constant dampness in the bedroom will be ensured. At the same time, it is advisable to do the hood even if there is a window - in the cold season it is hardly rational to constantly ventilate the shower room.

Shower with a ready-made tray - a simple and aesthetic solution

Installing the tray is extremely simple - just follow the instructions. Steel and acrylic pallets, in most cases, are equipped with special legs. But even in this case, it is better to place the pallet on a monolithic base with a support in the center - so that it does not sag or move.

The installation process includes five steps:

To simplify installation, instead of installing glass screens, you can attach a curtain bracket. To add originality to your shower, you can use non-standard brackets - oval, semicircular or even spiral.

How to make a shower without a tray

A shower without a tray looks very stylish. Such a shower in the house is convenient for children and the elderly, as well as for bathing pets. The absence of a curb is compensated correct slope to drain water, so you don’t have to worry about completely flooding the bathroom.

The process of organizing such a shower is also quite simple, although it takes a lot of time:

To avoid screeding the entire floor twice, you can make a shower with a border. To do this, bricks are laid along the desired contour, and the whole process is repeated, but only in the space limited by the curb.

How to make a shower with such a tray with your own hands is very clearly shown in the video:

A shower stall means a compact and convenient structure that can significantly save space in a small bathroom (and regardless of whether the apartment is we're talking about or about a private house). Today, manufacturers offer a wide range of shower cabins various sizes, from different materials and with different options. But such products are quite expensive. Of course, you can buy the cheapest product, but it’s better to save money in another way - to do everything yourself. So, today we will tell you how to build a shower stall with your own hands.

We are planning further actions

Traditionally, we begin our work with preparation, or more specifically, with planning further actions. First, we note that it is quite possible to build a sufficiently voluminous cabin even in a small room. Moreover, there is a angular arrangement, thanks to which you can organize as correctly as possible inner space bathroom. The shape of the structure can be not only square, but also rectangular or semicircular. To select a suitable door in the future, you must take into account all these nuances at the preparatory stage.

A finished shower cabin, made by yourself, will turn out to be unique, but to achieve this, you will have to work hard on almost every detail. Be especially careful if you are designing a cabin for wooden house– in this case, you need to know how to make the connection correctly, how to select all the required structural elements(such as hoses, tiles, cartridges, faucets, doors and even bricks).

Also, before starting the process itself, it is necessary to decide on the algorithm for further actions. So, often the construction of a shower stall includes:

• site layout;
• purchasing everything you need;
• laying a waterproofing layer;
• laying communications;
• pallet installation;
• wall decoration;
• choosing a suitable door design;
• direct installation;
• checking the resulting design for functionality

We should also talk about arranging a shower stall in the country. For this reason, we strongly recommend that you read the article to the end - in this case, you will learn what and how you can do it yourself! The fact is that this way you will not only gain valuable experience in carrying out repair work, but you will also be able to please your loved ones and enjoy the results of your work.

Stage one. Planning a suitable location for a shower stall

First of all, the place in which the booth will be installed must be convenient to use, in particular, communication networks, movement, location mandatory elements toilet/bathroom.

Note! This point is especially important if your bathroom has little free space. If so, you must carefully calculate how each piece will be positioned.

Stage two. Necessary materials

Your shower stall can be decorated with your own hands different ways, on which the choice of a specific material depends.

• Floor. The cabin tray is often made of brick and cement mortar.
• Floor decoration. For this, mosaics or tiles are usually used.
• Cabin door. Everything is simple here - you can use either plastic or glass.
• Ceiling, walls. These elements can be made of tiles or plastic.

Stage three. Preparing the room for a shower stall, proper waterproofing

As experienced craftsmen advise, the base floor covering must be located at least 10-20 centimeters below the floor surface of other rooms. And to install a booth in a house made of wood, special measures should be taken to protect the walls and floor from excess moisture. For this purpose, the surface to be treated is pre-cleaned of old decoration, garbage and stains. Then the treatment is carried out with a quick-drying primer, after which you can safely proceed to the next steps.

1. Waterproofing the room. First it is laid moisture-resistant chipboard, which is subsequently covered with glassine, a polymer film. It is important that the layers overlap and that no gaps are formed. To seal joints, bitumen mastic is used (the most best option). On top of the film, the area of ​​the room where the booth will be located is poured sand-cement screed(the latter can be additionally treated with special mixtures - water-repellent, anti-fungal, etc.).
2. As alternative options the following materials can be used: plasterboard, moisture-resistant plywood, treated with antiseptic substances and coated with paint that has a water-repellent base.
3. If your bathroom is made of wood, then be sure to take care of good ventilation, which will ensure natural circulation air after you take a shower. This is especially true in cases where the shower is combined with a toilet.

Note! It is extremely important that waterproofing is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the bathroom. If you still decide to leave some surfaces, then apply special complex compounds to them.

You can also protect the room from hot water and steam (if we are talking about the same wooden house) by isolating it from other rooms, that is, by installing a sealed shower. And if you also connect an additional fan, you will be able to significantly extend the service life of the entire building.

Do not forget that waterproofing should protect not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor, which is especially important for wooden houses. Even if the hose starts to leak or the cartridge breaks, resulting in a flood, having eliminated all these problems, you will be calm about the integrity of the floors.

Stage four. We take care of sewerage/water supply

So, if you have already selected the place where your shower cabin will be located with your own hands, then, first of all, you must take care of the water supply and connection to the sewer system of your future design. The procedure consists of several stages; the algorithm of necessary actions is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step one. First, mark where exactly the mixer will be located.

Step three. Install water filters that improve water quality. Thanks to this, you will save the cartridge, moreover, the mixers will be guaranteed to work properly, as well as the entire water supply network (the hoses will not become clogged with various impurities),

Step four. Using a flexible hose, connect the water supply elements together, while trying to screw all the elements as carefully as possible. In addition, it is very important that the hoses you use are long so that you can easily adjust the location of the cabin later.

Step five. Connect the sewer pipes to the floor.

Note! Before you connect the sewerage/water supply systems, be sure to treat all sewerage pipeline connections, as well as all existing hoses, with FUM tape (silicone, a special sealant).

Stage five. We can start working on the floor of the future shower stall

As noted earlier, a pallet is optional, so you can save some money at this point. The fact is that you can easily make a tray for your shower stall yourself using bricks. This should be done as follows. First, lay out a contour on the floor (square, oval or rectangular - it depends on the shape of the shower stall). Use cement mortar to seal the base.

As an option, you can lay another mixture on the floor, consisting of crushed stone and cement mortar, completely filling the entire base with it (that is, the mixture). In this case, do not forget to lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor before starting pouring. after this, fill the future location of the cabin with screed or self-leveling mixture. When the surface is completely dry, you can begin next stage- tiling.

An excellent option for decorating a shower room is a slanted floor. As for the sides, you can forget about them altogether - this way the operation of the booth will be noticeably simplified, in addition, you will get unhindered access to it. You can start designing this kind of floor even when you are carrying out renovation work in the bathroom. For this reason, the placement, as well as the actual connection of the drain hole, must be planned correctly.

For a more detailed overview of this stage of work, we recommend watching the video below on the topic.

Video – Pallet design + rough filling

Stage six. We decide on the door, decide what the walls will be like

First, you need to pay attention to what exactly the walls of your future shower stall will be like. In principle, in accordance with the design, you can lay out three walls using bricks, and then cover them with your own hands tiles. As for the door, you can purchase a double-glazed version for yourself.

Note! If your bathroom is not too large, then we recommend giving preference to light-colored tiles, which, as is known, can visually expand the space. If you plan to build a corner-type cabin in your house, then finish the two adjacent walls with the same tiles, and for the remaining two, purchase fiberglass.

We continue to talk about what a do-it-yourself shower stall should look like. So, when choosing a door, take into account the fact in which way it opens (that is, is it sliding or hinged). The classic of the genre is considered to be the swing door design, which can be used without any special precautions. However, remember that to install such a door you must have a certain amount of free space.

If the shower stall is planned to be small, then there is another way out - to install two hinged doors at once, which you can easily install with your own hands. As for sliding doors, they have more complex design, as they move along the walls of the structure using special sliding rollers. Sliding doors, which are equipped with metal guides and rollers, are rightfully considered the most durable.

Stage seven. Do-it-yourself shower cabin installation

So, most of the work on the construction of the shower stall has been completed, so now you can pay due attention to installing the shower door. A glass door, when compared with a fiberglass door, is the most durable option. Although a fiberglass product is also quite acceptable, as it has many advantages. For example, such doors can be ordered individually in accordance with the required dimensions, and then installed independently.

The installation procedure itself looks something like this:

Step one. First, drill holes in the required places on the floor, tiles and ceiling (all surfaces, as you probably guessed, should already be finished).

Step three. After this, start fastening directly entrance box. First, take the first piece and secure each of its four sides. Next, take the second part, but attach it to only one wall (more specifically, the one that will touch the door).

Step four. Take a double door, secure it with spacers on one side (between the ceiling and the floor).

Thanks to this type of design, you can achieve the tightest possible fit of the door, which, in turn, will ensure the tightness of the entire structure. In the end, all that remains is to seal all the seams with sealant.

Stage eight. We check everything for functionality

So, the do-it-yourself shower cabin is almost ready for use, now you must connect it to plumbing system, and then turn on the water to find out how the mixer works, as well as how tight all connections and corners are. After this, you can safely begin installing all the additional fittings (this includes the shower itself, shelves, mirrors, handles, and other decorative elements). That's it, now the booth is really ready to be fully used!

What about accessories?

And here you should pay special attention to such an important element of the cabin as the shower mixer - perhaps the “weakest link” of the entire bathroom, especially if we are talking about a wooden house. As a rule, the functionality of the faucet is noticeably hampered if it becomes clogged with various debris or, alternatively, the cartridge fails - as a result, the faucet will make noise or leak. As a result, during further operation this device quickly becomes unusable. Therefore, we recommend giving preference only to those options whose design allows for repairs without any particular difficulties.

Note! The easiest option to operate and repair is single lever mixer mechanical type, capable of serving without breakdowns for quite a long time. If you read the manufacturer's instructions, you can easily install it yourself. The principle of operation of any mixer is to achieve the required water temperature, as well as its pressure (in this case, the main load falls on the cartridge).

And it is not surprising, because when using a water supply, the cartridge often becomes clogged with various kinds of small impurities, which is why the mixer itself can fail. The same mixers that use a cartridge have undeniable advantages, let’s take a closer look at the most important of them.

• These are reliable and durable devices.
• They are convenient to operate; moreover, they boast an attractive design and compactness.
• If necessary, you can easily replace the old cartridge with a new one. It should be remembered that sometimes difficulties arise with the compatibility of this element, therefore, give preference to a cartridge from the same manufacturer as the mixer.

As for the disadvantages of this kind of construction, there are few of them, more precisely, only one - a single-lever shower mixer can become unusable due to the failure of its main part. It’s definitely not possible to repair the cartridge; the only way out is to install a new element.

An original outdoor shower in the country - how to make it yourself?

Having your own summer cottage is always good. Sun, fresh air, healthy food and, of course, garden work. And if your summer cottage has a few extra square meters, then you can make an outdoor version of a shower stall. And on your own! Polycarbonate, which is most suitable for this, has a number of advantages - it is strong, durable, easy to install and can also withstand significant temperature changes.

It is only necessary that the polycarbonate structure be located in the shade, and not in the wind.

The procedure for constructing a summer shower itself is not complicated; the required sequence of actions is given below.

Step one. First, take care of a special drain hole - a pipe located at an angle so that the water drains as efficiently as possible.

Step two. Fill the base with concrete mortar, then finish with tiles.

Step three. Install wooden or steel supports (you can also use products made of MDF, polyvinyl chloride), and then fix them with concrete.

Step six. Using aluminum tape, cover the resulting frame with polycarbonate sheets.

Step seven. Then install the tank, trying to distribute the load as evenly as possible. You can connect a water heater to the tank itself, although you can do without it.

The most convenient option If the container is flat, the water in it will heat up much faster.

Step eight. Finally, treat all joints of the structure with sealant.

Don't forget to additionally buy a faucet, as well as other accessories for your summer shower. And for the job you only need skillful hands. But such a DIY shower cabin will serve you throughout the summer for several years in a row. You just need to have enough water for the shower.

Video - Making a shower with your own hands from polycarbonate

Factory shower stall - how to assemble it yourself?

If you decide to purchase a ready-made cabin and install it yourself, then the instructions provided are especially for you! The process consists of several stages, let's look at each of them.

Stage one. Pallet

Work should begin with assembling the pallet. On almost all models, the pallets come with special legs - they must be leveled and then secured with nuts. Then secure drain hose– to the pan itself and to the corresponding sewer hole.

Note! You can take care of the tee in advance, because several devices can be connected to the drain at once (for example, a washing machine).

Then check whether the gasket is secure. If necessary, additionally use a waterproof sealant.

Stage two. Water supply

Also install a tee for hot water supply/hot water supply, to which the cabin itself will be connected in the future. For sealing, use FUM tape, elite sealants or simple tow.

Stage three. Power supply

It is necessary for most modern models, so you need to take care of a separate outlet for the booth. Make sure that the outlet is special, that is, intended for rooms with high levels of humidity. It should be located so that the wire does not stretch, ideally at the back or side of the cabin.

Stage four. Walls

This process may vary depending on the specific model, but in most cases simple mounting bolts are used to secure the walls. For doors, use roller mechanisms.

Although the fastenings are different. By the way, assembly should begin exclusively with the walls and ceiling of the structure, and only then proceed to the door.

Stage five. Drainage

Next you will need water hoses. Ideally, they should have threaded connections, but if there are none, it is preferable to purchase other hoses. The clamps, as a rule, that are supplied with the cabins are of low quality, and therefore it is better not to use them.

Stage six. Additional accessories

Your DIY shower cabin can be equipped with various electronics (for example, radio, lighting or massage). Operation requires a 12-volt voltage, therefore, you will need to assemble a special converter (the latter, as a rule, is included in the basic package).

Stage seven. The final touch - checking the tightness

When the sealant has completely dried, it must be checked for quality by turning on low pressure water. If there are leaks, the seams must be resealed. Note also that the assembly may differ from the diagram described above - it all depends on the design of the specific model. But the main stages are described correctly.

That's all, good luck! Don't forget to watch the video on the topic!

Video – Assembling a Kaipunuo shower stall