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If you are planning to build a garage or have just finished building one, then you need to know how to make a garage floor and what DIY flooring options are available to you. Can be used different materials and technology. Let's take a closer look at each option so that you know where to choose the most suitable one.

The garage floor must be perfect

What should the garage floor be like?

It should be taken into account that the garage flooring must be prepared for constant heavy loads. In addition, aggressive substances may be present on the floor, which include various flammable and lubricating materials. So the floor in the garage should have the following qualities:

• high resistance to mechanical damage. Otherwise, the floor will quickly deform under the weight of the machine;
• ability to resist aggressive environment. In any case, flammable, lubricating and other substances will fall on the floor;
• resistance to moisture. This is also important because it determines how long your floor will remain in its original condition. After all, moisture will inevitably get on it when a wet car drives inside in snow and rain;
• fire safety. Important for those who choose a wooden floor. In this case, impregnation with fire retardants is mandatory.

Selecting a floor that meets these criteria will allow you to create a garage floor that will last for many years.

It is important that the floor is resistant to many factors

Flooring options. What to choose from?

The market offers an incredible number of flooring options. The important thing to do here is right choice. Let's talk about the main options.

Concrete floor

Because concrete is quite inexpensive material and copes well with large physical activity, this explains why concrete flooring is so popular among car enthusiasts.

Concrete flooring is one of the most popular types

Advantages:

• strength (loads are not terrible);
• budget;
• long service life;
• ease of sealing cracks.

• creates a lot of dust;
• the ingress of substances (gasoline, oil, etc.) leads to the formation of stains and stains, since they are easily absorbed.

The latter can be easily resolved. It is enough to cover the concrete floor with a special varnish or the most ordinary paint. This will give the coating more aesthetic appearance and greatly increase its practicality.

Concrete floor is not only separate coverage, which can serve as a floor, but also a base for creating many other options.

Concrete floor (painted)

To make your concrete floor more durable and last longer, a simple stain will help you protect the finish. Plus, you will solve the problem of excessive dust formation. It's pretty cheap and easy to implement.

Painted concrete floor

Self-leveling floor

The base for such a coating is a concrete screed. A two-component composition (resin and hardener) is applied on top of it. After the screed is covered with this material, the floor surface becomes very smooth and highly durable. In addition, the self-leveling floor is very durable.

Self-leveling floor in the garage

In order to demonstrate all the inherent qualities and characteristics of a self-leveling floor, it is important to adhere to the technology of its creation. Minimum thickness coating should be 5 mm.

Among other things, the advantage of this option is the variety of colors. Can be matte or glossy.

Tiles (ceramics)

To make your garage floor not only durable, but also beautiful, you will need ceramic tiles. But it should be borne in mind that the usual household tiles It won’t work here, because it will quickly deteriorate under the weight of the car.

Ceramic tiles on garage floor

The following materials should be used:

• clinker tiles - since they are fired at very high temperatures high temperatures, then its strength is high. It also withstands frost well and has a long service life;
• Porcelain stoneware – has sufficient strength and thickness. Thanks to clay and granite chips, it seems that the material is made of natural stone;
• floor tiles (for outdoor use).

The correct selection of tiles will help make the floor not only reliable, but also beautiful, as in the photo below.

Wooden floor

Wood is a very popular material, and also environmentally friendly. Has many advantages:

• natural;
• budget;
• does not generate dust;
• does not emit toxic substances;
• lasting.

The downside is its ability to burn easily. But, if properly treated with special fire retardants, it will become a completely safe coating. This flooring is not very durable due to rapid damage from moisture. Therefore, individual boards will have to be replaced every 4-5 years.

Garage - narrow functional room, the device of which must meet special requirements. It is necessary to distribute a noticeable load over a limited area, so it is better to make the floor in the garage from strong, wear-resistant materials.

Basic requirements for installing a floor in a garage

Any machine has a significant mass and requires constant maintenance using a set of tools, which increase the load on the floor surface, so it is better to provide several features if you start arranging a floor in the garage:

1. The strength and resistance of the material to mechanical stress; the floor in the garage is exposed to high temperatures almost every day. dynamic loads, therefore must have a reliable basis.
2. The top coating must be resistant to chemical compositions and not react to the penetration of fuels and lubricants (fuels and lubricants).
3. Moisture resistance of the material - it is impossible to exclude seasonal penetration of moisture into the garage when enough water and snow get from the wheels or fenders of the car.
4. Garage flooring with fire retardant properties will provide fire safety and will not allow smoke to spread.

Based on the above criteria, you can exclude materials such as wood and linoleum to make a garage floor. There is an opinion that if wood is impregnated with special substances, it will become suitable material in order to make a floor in a garage, however, over time, the fire retardant composition loses its properties, and the constant spreading of fuel and lubricants increases the risk of fire.

Important! Only some materials are suitable for making garage floors, including concrete or cement screed followed by laying a finishing coating or modern polymer floors (acrylic, polyurethane, epoxy). If you choose the option with polymer floors, you will also have to do the initial pouring of the concrete base.

Pouring concrete screed

The main problem when laying a concrete base is the interaction of the concrete and the adjacent soil, which should not be mobile or contain water. In order to prevent Negative consequences from excess moisture, you need to pour gravel chips, which will take on drainage functions and excess water will leave. The gravel embankment, which must be at least 10 cm thick, is covered with a layer of sand of the same height, which can be seen in the photo, in order to compact the bulk layer and strengthen adhesion to the concrete.

Waterproofing is a necessary element in order to prevent the penetration of water from the soil into the sub-garage area. For this purpose, a material such as dense polyethylene film, which must be laid with canvases with an overlap of 20 cm one on top of the other. Next, a concrete pad is poured, which should be 20 cm thick; to level it, use the installation of beacons to spend less time and material on leveling finishing screed. The concrete pad must be reinforced with reinforcing mesh at least 10 mm thick, as in the photo.

At the final stage, the floor in the garage is filled with cement screed, to strengthen which you also need to use metal mesh with cells 10x10 cm. The screed also needs to be covered with polyethylene and left to dry until it becomes light shade, which will indicate the complete absence of water in the screed. For final leveling of the floor, you can use self-leveling mixtures to which plasticizers are added to improve performance.

If environmental conditions allow you to easily wash your car in the garage, then the floors should be poured with a slight slope to quickly drain dirty water.

Garage Flooring

In order to make a finished garage floor, you can use various materials:

• topping system– used to strengthen the concrete-cement surface and can be either a final floor finishing option or a preparatory option for laying finishing coating; strengthening topping mixtures consist of crystalline quartz or corundum rocks with the addition of metal powder;

• floor tiles– this is the most common option when choosing finishing materials for a garage, in order to lay floor tiles, it is better to use frost-resistant porcelain stoneware, which can withstand increased load; "Gres" porcelain tiles are unenamelled, single-fired ceramic tiles, very durable, produced various colors and shades; porcelain tiles have wonderful technological indicators: low water absorption, resistance to abrasive loads and impact chemical substances, variety of colors and patterns; Porcelain stoneware better withstands impact and temperature changes;

• rubber cover – an option available to everyone, inexpensive and durable, it is made from fractional crumbs obtained from old car tires, thick rubber is available in rolls or in the form of tiles, which can be laid very easily; the coating has a textured non-slip structure; when laying it is better to use an adhesive composition intended for street work;

• modular flooring for a garage - this coating is assembled like a puzzle; the main component for its production is polyvinyl chloride, which provides increased strength and elasticity of the coating; if you choose a PVC floor covering, you don’t even have to glue it to the base, because the installation takes place by joining special locks; The PVC coating is antistatic, has a rough surface with an anti-slip effect, and you can purchase the coating in any shape and color, as seen in the photo;

• painting concrete base– the cheapest option finishing, but ordinary paints wear off and peel off over time, so it is better to use a special impregnation for concrete, which penetrates 2-3 cm into the thickness and stays stably on the floor for a long time; It is noticeable in the photo that paints for concrete allow you to choose the desired color; latex, one- and two-component epoxy paints must be applied in accordance with the attached instructions to achieve a permanent result; you need to calculate your capabilities so as to complete the painting in one step, since the paint dries quickly.

Particularly demanding garage owners use a concrete polishing technique, which consists of several stages: a cleaned concrete surface without cracks and differences is polished using abrasive mechanisms, the concrete is impregnated with strengthening mixtures and polishing begins, after which the surface must be finished in several layers polyurethane varnish. If to achieve impressive decorative effect add granite or marble chips, the polished surface will acquire a unique pattern. Looking at the photo, you can see that polished concrete floors have an interesting, intricate texture.

Polymer flooring for a garage combines many advantages - both high technological properties and attractive external condition. The polymer coating is made from special mixtures that are easily mixed and distributed over the floor plane with a needle roller. If the resulting polymer mixture is of the correct liquid consistency, then it is capable of self-leveling, and the master needs to use spikes on the roller to remove possible air bubbles from the mixture. Before this, you need to repeatedly prime the concrete base with binder mixtures to prepare the surface for application. polymer coating. Dried floors must be sanded and painted to achieve a flawless effect, as in the photo shown.

It’s only at first that it seems that it doesn’t matter what kind of floor the garage has. Once you start to figure it out, a sea of ​​nuances immediately arises. In the article we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages possible options and how to make a garage floor with your own hands.

You can make a concrete floor in your garage with your own hands. It's important to know how

Which garage floors are better?

As you can see, there aren't many options. Let's look at their advantages and disadvantages in more detail.

Advantages and disadvantages

Earthen floors in a garage are very simple to install, require virtually no material investment, and you can replace a damaged section of the earthen floor at any time. These are, perhaps, all the advantages. The downsides are more serious:

• in dry weather they get dusty, in rainy weather they get wet;
• spills can only be removed by replacing part of the coating;
• cold, no possibility of insulation;

A dirt floor in a garage can be made as a temporary option or as a base for wood. Such floors can be found in garages at dachas, where the car is located for a very short period of time. In major garages, they still make a more solid foundation.

A garage floor made of paving slabs can be considered as one of the earthen floor options. It's just more practical. There are more layers when constructing it, as well as more money is required for its installation - more crushed stone and sand are poured onto the ground, into which the tiles are laid. But the functionality of this option is much higher. Disadvantages - possible increased humidity, and with insufficient compaction sand and gravel cushion It is possible for the floor to “sag” in places of greatest stress, and if the quality of the tiles is poor, they can be destroyed under the influence of aggressive substances, of which there is more than enough in the garage. Another minus is that dirt gets stuck in the seams, it’s not easy to clean, and the problem of absorption remains: paving slabs are hygroscopic.

Not everyone is happy with a wooden garage floor because it is a fire hazard and prone to rot. Although, if the groundwater is low and the floor is made correctly, it will not rot. Fire hazards can be combated by impregnating the boards with fire retardants - agents that reduce the flammability of wood. But these are not all shortcomings. It’s also not very pleasing that the boards absorb dirt and spilled liquids, which do not have the most pleasant smell. A wooden garage floor looks very untidy, and there is no way to remove all of the wood fibers.

The advantages of wooden floors include the fact that they are warmer than the other two options. In addition, when installing a plank floor in a garage on joists, the gap between them can be filled/filled with thermal insulation materials, which will make it even warmer. It’s difficult to talk about the price: in some regions, boards, even thick ones, are inexpensive, in others they cost a lot of money.

Concrete garage floors are the most common and popular. It is durable and can be insulated. And it's simple concrete covering left in last years not so often - many materials have appeared for finishing the floor in the garage, which make its operation much more comfortable.

The disadvantages of a concrete floor in a garage have already been mentioned: it is a large amount of work, a long period of time required to install it, and a fairly high price, even if you make a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands. If the final coating is the same as concrete, then it also adds absorption of liquids and odors, which are also impossible to remove. The unpleasant thing is that concrete absorbs moisture from both the soil and the air. This is not good for concrete - it only becomes stronger, but for a car it is not good. So when high level groundwater need to do good waterproofing, and, possibly, a topcoat that does not allow moisture to pass through. An excellent option is polymer or rubber coating for the garage.

How to make an earthen floor

First, all of the garage is removed. construction garbage, which may accumulate there during construction. Next, the entire fertile layer. Completely all the way down to “clean” soil without vegetation and roots. The thickness of the layer can be different - somewhere 10-15 cm, and somewhere 50-60 cm. Regardless of this, the entire fertile layer must be removed. It contains a lot of organic matter, microorganisms, and insects. Organic matter will rot, spreading corresponding odors, and microorganisms will contribute to the appearance of mold and fungi; insects are also not the best neighbors.

Having reached clean soil, it is leveled, the same clean soil is poured in layers of about 5 cm (you can dig a hole somewhere nearby or bring it in). Each layer is well compacted. It’s good if there is a vibrating platform, a roller or some other similar device. If you don’t have one, you can make a manual tamper yourself. There are two options:

• thick steel plate, with a T-shaped handle welded in the center:
• a piece of log of considerable diameter with a crossbar-handle nailed at the top.

Each layer is compacted with this tamper. So, tamping in layers, fill the pit to the ground level, maybe even a little higher. The upper layers are molded, creating a slight slope towards the door so that water that gets into the garage drains.

To create a more serviceable floor, the top layers are replaced with clay, but it is very difficult to compact it, but it must be achieved high density. Another option is to pour some gravel onto the compacted earthen floor and ram it into the ground with a tamper. Here, most likely, you will need a vibration platform. But you get a solid base in which even the wheels leave no traces. The advantages of this option also include the fact that there will be much less dirt in the garage.

Paving slabs in the garage

The beginning of the work is exactly the same: remove the fertile layer, level and compact the soil. Next, add gravel. Minimum layer- 10 cm, and what you get depends on the depth of the resulting pit. Just keep in mind that there will still be a 7-10 cm layer of sand on top, and paving slabs, the thickness of which should be more than 6 cm. This is so that you can correctly calculate the height of all layers and bring the floor level to the required level.

Sand, crushed stone and all other materials are poured in layers no more than 5 cm thick, leveled, then compacted to a high density. A layer is considered compacted if no footprints remain on it.

To eliminate or reduce the suction of moisture from the soil, a layer or, better yet, two, of waterproofing must be added to this sequence. It could be roofing felt, another roll waterproofing material, dense polyethylene film (density of at least 250-300 microns), hydro-vapor insulating membrane. The material is spread out so that one sheet overlaps the other. The strips are glued together. If it is film, you can use Double-sided tape, if roofing felt or other similar material, the edges can be coated bitumen mastic. Where to place the waterproofing? It’s probably better between soil and sand, and also between sand and a dry mixture for laying paving slabs.

In general, for a garage, you can use a layer. This non-woven material, which is used in Europe in road construction. It perfectly redistributes the load, and the floor in your garage will never sag under the wheels if there are geotextiles in the cake. In this embodiment, it is better to lay it between the second layer of sand and the dry mixture.

They put paving slabs both on concrete screed and asphalt, which is also sometimes laid in the garage. Then pour a layer of dry backfill or sand 5 cm thick, level it, lightly compact it, and lay the tiles in it.

To make it easier to navigate the thickness of the existing layer when installing floor layers in the garage, their dimensions can be marked on the walls of the garage. If the distance from wall to wall is small, these marks will be enough. If the area is large, in some places you can drive in pegs, on which you can also mark the thickness of each layer. This makes the process much easier. After all the layers are filled, the pegs are pulled out, the holes are filled with sand and compacted with at least the same peg.

Another trick: so that less dirt gets into the seams between the tiles, mix sand with cement, fill the spaces between the tiles with this mixture, and carefully sweep away the remains. Then you need to take a spray bottle and wet the surface well, leave for a day or two. If you see that there is cement somewhere on the surface of the tile, it is better to immediately wipe it off with a rag. If he catches you, you will suffer for a long time. Why not water the floor with a hose? Because the drops are too large and will leave potholes. The spray bottle produces water dust rather than droplets.

Making a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands

And in the case of a wooden floor in the garage, there will be no differences at the first stage: you need to remove fertile soil, level and compact the bottom of the resulting pit. Then it is fashionable to lay a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, waterproofing, film, membrane) on the bottom, and a layer of sand or gravel on it. Sand and gravel need to be compacted, but the density is not so critical, but bringing the bedding “to the horizon” is important - check how evenly the “cushion” lies using a level, but not small, but no less than a meter.

With insulation

Logs are installed on this bedding - large cross-section timber. The step is no more than a meter. It is advisable to arrange it so that the car wheels are above the joist or not far from it, and the rest can be distributed as it turns out.

Before laying, the logs are impregnated with a protective impregnation against rotting (for wood in direct contact with the ground), and then treated with fire retardants (reducing flammability). To prevent rotting, logs can be impregnated with mining, but their flammability will only increase. So this is not a very good option, although it is cheap. You can also use sleepers. They are already impregnated, but have a persistent characteristic odor.

Next, the space between the joists can be filled with insulation. The best option- expanded polystyrene. If your budget allows, take extruded with a density of 35 kg/m3. It does not rot, fungi and microorganisms do not multiply on it, and mice do not eat it. In addition, it does not allow or absorb water. Insulation and waterproofing in one fell swoop. Layer thickness is at least 5 cm, but preferably 10 or more. If there is still space, you can fill in broken bricks and expanded clay. These materials are not the best solution, as they are hygroscopic (absorb moisture). You can use them instead new material— granulated foam glass. It is many times “warmer” than expanded clay, does not absorb water, and is not so expensive. In principle, you can only fill foam glass (in granules or broken glass) between the joists. It will be good too. But in any case, you don’t need to fill the entire space, right under the boards. Required ventilation gap at least 5 cm. Then the boards will not rot.

Across installed logs lay the boards. This is normal edged board 40-50 mm thick. When laying, do not try to pack them very tightly. It is better if there is a gap of 3-5 mm between the boards. That's all, the insulated wooden floor in the garage with your own hands is finished.

Logs on posts

There is an option for a “cold” wooden floor in the garage - on posts. A layer of gravel is poured onto the leveled soil and compacted. They are placed on gravel with the expectation that logs can be laid on them later. The distance between the posts is about 1 m. That is, if the width of the garage is 4 m, then there are two posts at the edges and two in the middle. Since the distance between the logs is also 1 m, such rows of columns are located every meter. After two weeks, the solution will set and logs can be laid on the posts.

Ruberoid is laid on each column in two layers. It can be replaced by coating with bitumen mastic (twice). If the height of the posts is not the same, pieces of wood, plywood and other similar materials can be laid between the joists and posts. It is important that they are held tightly and that the logs are level. Next is laying the floor boards.

Concrete floor in garage

The most versatile floor is concrete. And we are talking not only about its finishing, but also about how it can be made. If we talk specifically about how to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands, you must first of all start from what kind of foundation you have. If this monolithic slab, quite a bit of work. If the surface is not level enough, all that remains is to fill in the leveling screed and then begin laying the finishing coating. If the differences do not exceed 1 cm per square meter, you can immediately lay any of the suitable finishing materials.

Layer order

With any other foundation, the beginning of the work coincides with all those described above: we remove the fertile layer, level it, and tamp it. Further, no news either: pour crushed stone in layers, tamp it, the total thickness of crushed stone is from 10 cm. The next layer is sand.

But then there may be options. If you want an insulated floor in the garage, install thermal insulation material. Better - extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg/m3. It will support both the weight of the screed and the machine. This cannot be said about all the others. You can use a bulk thermal insulator such as expanded clay, but it is ineffective and also absorbs moisture. Then you need to lay a layer of waterproofing underneath it. Better - granulated foam glass. It has low thermal conductivity and does not absorb water. It is problematic to use ordinary polystyrene foam (foam) and mineral wool - they can wrinkle under the weight, which will lead to a loss of thermal insulation effectiveness.

A film is spread over the thermal insulation layer, and a reinforcing belt is placed on it. Here again there are two options: tie it from reinforcement (8-10 mm in diameter in increments of 20 cm) or lay a ready-made metal mesh (wire from 6 mm with a cage size of 10 cm). If you choose a mesh, lay it overlapping, overlapping at least one cell, and tie it together (with knitting wire or plastic clamps). Fill everything with concrete (more than enough), level it well.

To make leveling concrete in the garage easier, beacons are placed at the required level. These are even strips - special metal ones, metal pipes, as a last resort - wooden planks (they are not always even, and even moisture can lead to them). They are placed so that their top edge is aligned to the same level. The distance between the slats is 40-60 cm less than the length of the rule. The solution is poured in portions. Supporting the rule on the beacons, it is stretched, leveling the surface. The entire perimeter is gradually filled. Please note that for concrete to set normally, it needs a temperature of about +20°C and sufficient humidity. That is, pouring concrete on the garage floor better in summer. But if it is too dry during this period, you will have to water the screed - it is also important sufficient quantity moisture. To make it evaporate less, the screed is covered with film or burlap. If the film is used, each time you water the screed, it must be removed and spread. If burlap is laid, you can water from above. Under such conditions, the screed will gain its design strength in approximately 28 days. Afterwards, you can move on - laying the finishing coating.

Another option in the video.

Landscaping your garage begins with choosing the right flooring. The problem has many solutions; boardwalk is one of the common options. It can spread on the ground or concrete screed. Having studied the features of the process of how to make a wooden floor in a garage, you will be able to complete the work on your own.

Features of a wooden floor

There is no consensus on the practicality and comfortable use of boardwalks. Studying the features of the wooden floor in the garage will help you finally make sure that the chosen solution is correct. Among the advantages, the following aspects are noted:

• Long service life. Preliminary processing wood covering protective compounds significantly extends the life of the floor. The wear time depends largely on the intensity of use of the garage.
• If a particular section of a wooden floor is damaged, it can be easily replaced with new material.
• It is much more pleasant to inspect or repair a car on wooden surface than on a cold concrete screed.
• Properly selected material can rival the strength of a concrete base.
• Simple installation allows you to design your own wooden floor in the garage.

Comment! The use of wood impregnations helps reduce moisture in the garage, which slows down the process of body corrosion.

Any garage floor covering has disadvantages; regarding wooden flooring, it is worth noting the following negative points:

• Wood actively absorbs foreign odors. A stain from accidentally spilled oil or gasoline is almost impossible to remove, and specific aroma will remind you of the incident for a long time, especially when the engine is running.
• The cost of the material varies in different regions, so from an economic point of view, it is sometimes more profitable to decorate a garage with floor tiles.
• Wood floors are not moisture resistant, so there is a risk of rotting. It can be damaged by rodents and insects.

Treatment can prevent the problem wooden covering protective compounds, which will be discussed below.

Wood coating protection

Before installing garage floors, wooden planks, care should be taken to protect the material. Application various compositions in the form of impregnations, varnishes and paints improves performance characteristics wood

All variety protective equipment conditionally divided into three groups:

• Antiseptics and flame retardants. Protect the wooden floor in the garage from damage by rodents and rotting as a result high humidity, provide fire resistance.
• Wood varnishes. Protective film slows down the process of floor abrasion and reduces the negative impact of mechanical loads.
• The functions of paints are similar to those of wood varnishes and additionally play a decorative role.

Advice! Before starting to process the wooden floor, the material is thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptic substances. The combination of compounds depends on the purpose of the garage and the likely risks.

Installation of wooden covering on concrete screed

The installation process is preceded by studying the floor structure, drawing up detailed plan actions, purchase of materials. There are several technologies for how to decorate a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands. The following option is considered optimal:

• Formation cement screed, reinforced with reinforcement.
• Installation of the waterproofing layer.
• Insulating it will help improve the quality characteristics of a floor made of boards, although this stage is not mandatory for a garage.
• Strengthening the lag.
• Installation of floor boards.
• Treating wooden floors with protective compounds.

Materials

List of materials for arranging the garage floor concrete screed followed by covering the wooden flooring:

• crushed stone of large or medium fraction to form a cushion;
• purified sand for cushioning and preparing concrete;
• Cement grade M400 and higher will allow you to obtain a strong screed;
• the waterproofing function will be performed by polyethylene or roofing felt;
• on cross beams there is a beam with a cross section of 200x200 mm;
• insulation is created using expanded clay or mineral wool;
• Installation of the flooring is carried out with a board whose thickness exceeds 3 cm.

The dimensions of the board are largely determined by the weight of the car and the intensity of use of the garage. The use of tongue and groove boards greatly facilitates the installation process due to the presence of grooves, and the tight connection contributes to the formation of hermetic joints.

Preparatory work

Work on arranging a concrete screed in the garage as a subfloor under wood flooring consist of the following steps:

After the concrete base has dried, they proceed to installing waterproofing. Installation of the material is carried out with an overlap on the walls; sealing of all joints with tape helps to achieve tightness.

Installation of beams

Logs for wooden floors are made from 200x200 mm timber. If material with a cross section of 150x200 mm is used, installation is carried out on the edge to increase rigidity. There is a specific installation order:

• The beams are placed across the garage at intervals of 0.3-0.5 m. The optimal interval depends on the thickness of the wooden floor and the weight of the car.
• Laying the boards should be done perpendicular to the beams.

The main stages of the process of installing joists for a wooden garage floor:

• Wood has the ability to deform when the level of humidity or temperature changes, so a gap of 2-3 cm is left between the end of the beam and the wall.
• Using a level during installation will ensure stability of the joists. Wooden spacers will help correct the tilt.
• Air circulation is necessary between the beams and the concrete screed subfloor. For this purpose, create a gap of 2-3 cm using the same wooden spacers.
• The edges of the logs rest on a grillage, column or plinth about 10 cm high.

Installation of beams is carried out directly or with strapping around the perimeter of the garage.

Insulation

Garage installation wooden floors provides for thermal insulation.

Comment! The process is not necessary, but if there is no heating source, it will help retain heat during the cold period.

Expanded clay and mineral wool have suitable properties. The material is distributed into free areas between the beams.

When decorating a thermal insulation layer with mineral wool, it is necessary to lay mats with maximum density, the presence free space not allowed. Impregnation with fire retardants and antiseptics will help preserve the performance characteristics of the material. This measure will prevent the risk of fire of mineral wool and its damage by bugs. If expanded clay performs the insulation function, it is poured between the joists and carefully compacted. To achieve the maximum heat preservation effect, additional use of a transparent film on top of the existing insulator will help. This is especially important if the wooden floor of the garage will be laid with non-groove boards.

Finished floor design

The final stage of installing a wooden floor in the garage will be the installation of boards. The process does not contain complex actions, key point is to maintain the tightness of the seams. Pre-treatment of joints with silicone will help strengthen the tightness of a wooden floor.

Installation begins from the far corner of the garage. The boards are laid in such an order that the end connection of the first row is not located next to the joint of the next one, that is, the checkerboard method is used.

When the installation of the plank flooring in the garage is completed, they move on to processing the wood flooring. Before applying varnish or paint, the wooden floor is cleaned of dirt and dust, antiseptic substances and other protective agents are applied. After drying, proceed to decorative design garage floor. paints and varnishes selected taking into account their purpose for wooden surfaces.

Advice! Areas where the car's wheels are planned to come into contact with a wooden floor can be covered with a rubberized coating. This helps extend the life of the boardwalk.

Installation of a wooden floor on the ground

It’s faster, easier and cheaper to install a wooden floor in your garage without first laying out a concrete base. The technological process consists of the following stages:

The areas where the car wheels are planned to be located are reinforced with additional supports. It is also advisable to equip this place with stronger joists.

Instead of brick supports, you can install a wooden floor in the garage using columnar foundation done independently. To do this, holes are prepared with a drill into which a pipe made of roofing material is inserted. A reinforcing frame is installed inside and filled with cement mortar.

The remaining stages of arranging a wooden floor in a garage are carried out similarly to the described process of laying it on a concrete base.

Conclusion

Despite some disadvantages, a wooden floor can become a reliable covering for a garage, provided that technological process laying and processing for protection purposes.

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Happy car owners who have their own garage spend a lot of time in it alone with their own iron horse. Interior decoration the garage in this case should be as neat, practical and convenient as finishing in own home. Of course, the floor is subject to the greatest load. In a huge variety of coatings, you need to choose exactly the one that will satisfy all the owner’s requirements and will be the most durable and economical. Which garage floor is better? modern materials or rough surface? The answers to the question are in this material.

Floor in a modern garage

Flooring options

The floor in the garage is subject to extremely intense impact: car wheels ride on it, heavy objects move, and people walk on it in shoes. In addition to mechanical damage, the floor covering also receives chemical damage: fuel, oils, acids, paint and other aggressive compounds fall down even on the most careful car enthusiasts. Washing a car will also shorten the life of the floor if its finish is not suitable for the load.

The economical option of bulk earthen or sand coating can hardly be called successful for obvious reasons: with such a finish, dirt is inevitable, which will end up in the cabin or at home, especially in conditions of high humidity. When wondering what the best floors are in a garage, you can answer that any except earthen ones, since they can hardly be called floors at all.

An earthen floor is the simplest, but also the most unfortunate solution.

Another option - wooden floors - also has more disadvantages than advantages. In terms of cost, it is comparable to bulk, and in terms of wear resistance it is much inferior to it. Due to its flammability, such a floor is one of the worst options for garages, where fuels and lubricants can easily splash out, catch fire and cause serious damage.

Concrete base: floor slab and rough screed

The basis of any gender - concrete slab or monolithic concrete block. In the first case, the quality and grade of concrete is checked by the manufacturer, so the factory-made concrete slab has good strength characteristics and can be used as a floor covering.

Monolithic concrete, which is installed on site, may be inferior in strength to a slab. According to the norm, it takes 28 days for concrete to completely harden. In this period cement composition protect from drying out by constantly watering and preventing evaporation.

Concrete is not just a dried solution, it is a substance in which water molecules are embedded in the structure of the stone; the strength of the finishing coating depends on moisture content. If the technology is followed, the screed will last a long time.

It’s easy to identify a poor-quality coating; just rub the screed with the soles of your shoes, and if sand appears, the floor should be “brought to life” with other types of finishing, otherwise it will not last long.

Floor in your garage: what better stove or screed - it is impossible to answer unequivocally, since the coating should be assessed individually in each case.

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Self-leveling floors

Self-leveling floors are ready-made compounds that have high plasticity, are able to fill all voids evenly and, by analogy with liquids, spread strictly horizontally. Such products are easy to install as they do not require additional alignment.

Bulk composition in the garage

There are several types of compositions, but all of them can be divided into two large groups - cement and polymer. Which floors are best made in the garage depends on how often they will be exposed to aggressive substances. Compositions with cement have very high strength, they are extremely durable and are relatively cheap.

Polymer compositions contain various substances, which, when the screed hardens, form a plastic, moisture-resistant monolithic coating. Additives are added to some mixtures to make the finished floor chemically resistant. This technology cannot be called revolutionary; on the contrary, it has been tested for decades, since polymer liquid formulations have been used in production workshops at factories since Soviet times.

Ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles

Ceramics is one of the leaders among wear-resistant floor coverings. The secret to the success of such tiles is its silicate glaze, which is essentially glass, which is famous for its chemical resistance and abrasion resistance.

Using tiles as flooring

The disadvantages include fragility, because if heavy objects fall, the tiles can crack. The quality of the finished base greatly depends on the quality of the tile joints and the quality of the base. Under the tiles, you will have to level the rough surface to perfect condition.

The technology for constructing porcelain stoneware slabs is the same as ceramic tiles. Porcelain tile is not inferior to it in terms of strength and durability, but from an ergonomic point of view it is preferable. The structure of the material is such that the surface will never be slippery. Water flows through it just as quickly; cleaning with solvents and rough mechanical cleaning is allowed. Porcelain tiles can be purchased at a low price; budget items will cost much less than tiles.

Polymer tiles

Durable, easy to install, ergonomic and stable, polymer flooring has the only drawback - its high price.

Comparison of different types of coatings

What is best to make a garage floor from can be decided by assessing the pros and cons of each type of coating.

Concrete surfaces and surfaces made of moisture-resistant coatings behave differently during operation. In a garage finished with any type of tile, you can create perfect cleanliness, in which it is pleasant to work and just be. Concrete surfaces can also be washed, but the appearance is still inferior. Oils and fuel are easily removed from ceramics without leaving a trace, and the concrete floor remembers such stains forever. Acids do not harm tiles or polymer floors, and they destroy the concrete, it begins to crumble, and local damage appears.