Options for fastening profiles for drywall. All about how to attach drywall to a metal profile frame. What tools are needed when installing profile elements?

Building a frame for installing plasterboard structures is a completely feasible task without specialists; this requires a little skill and patience.

The main condition when building a frame is that it can move a little and is not rigidly fastened at the edges if you plan to prime the surface at the seams.

For a wall with wallpaper pasted, this does not matter, because if cracks appear, they will not be visible. But from a technological point of view, this is, of course, very bad, because cracks will never lead to good. Many people think about how to attach profile to profile. To the base? Lots of nuances? And this desire is quite fair, because if you make even a small mistake, you will have to redo everything.

Before starting work

You need to sketch out on paper the optimal plan for how to attach profile to profile so that there is not a lot of waste, and place the frame and drywall the best way. See which option will result in the highest material savings. Estimate the size of the door, and if the sheets are larger than needed, then a freight elevator with a wide door is needed, because in the worst case, 3 by 1.2 m sheets may not fit into the doorways.

You need to calculate the amount of material. To avoid confusion, you should remember that UD is the one that is mounted on walls, it measures 28 by 27. CD is the main profile, for walls only these two are enough, but when installing the ceiling frame you need another one, it serves as a jumper between the profiles . Calculate required quantity The UD profile for the ceiling is simple, using the formula K=P/3, where K is the number of profiles 3 m long, P is the perimeter of the room. If the dimensions are 3100 mm, then, in order not to add 100, you can make K=P/4 at 4 m. For a wall, instead of the size of the room, you need the perimeter of the plane.

CD profile calculation

When working, it is necessary to take into account the length and width of the room. We divide the latter by the distance between the profiles and select the length depending on the length of the room, if 3 m - the profile is 3 m; 3.5 - then 4, so that the work goes faster, you don’t have to worry about the leftovers - they will be used instead of crabs, we will save on material.

For example, the width of the room is 5600 mm, the length is 3100, and there will be a solid ceiling designed for a chandelier. Then the pitch between the profile is 600 mm, divide 5600 by 600, it turns out 9.3. That is, we need 9 profile blanks of 4 m, taking into account the length of the room 3100. In extreme cases, you can buy 10 profiles 3 m long, cut the 10th into pieces of 100 mm each and add to the nine existing ones, but we will also need 9 connecting pieces, and it is unknown whether we will win.

Calculation of other materials

The calculation of the lintels is carried out according to the same scheme, but taking into account the dimensions of the plasterboard board: the distance between the lintels is 1200 or 600 mm, ideally so that it is smaller Supplies. To fasten the UD profile we will need 6 x 60 dowel nails. It’s easy to calculate, divide the length and width by a distance of, say, 400 mm, then we will need 44 dowels.

We also believe that to attach the bracket we need 2 dowels per element, suspensions - taking into account a pitch of 600 mm - 5 pieces per CD profile, we have 9 of them, which means 5 x 9 = 36, multiply by 2 and get 72 pieces , add 44 dowels that we need for the profile, and we get 116 pcs.

Many beginners do not know how many screws they need and how to attach them correctly. The profile is securely attached to the profile using 2 self-tapping screws. To fasten the profiles between the brackets you also need 2 screws, the profile and the connector - 2 pcs., the jumpers with it - 4 pcs., plus for each sheet you need 50-60 pcs., in total about 500 pcs., if you take with in reserve, taking into account that some may break and so on.

How to install profiles correctly?

How can I attach a profile to a profile? The installation rules are simple.

In order to qualitatively connect two frame elements to each other, you need to secure them with small special metal screws - fleas, which are designed for use on these profiles.

When fastening along the edges of the room, you cannot connect the profiles to each other so that the ceiling can move freely and there are no cracks or defects in the plane.

How to attach profile to profile using a T-joint without a crab? It is necessary to bend either the central plane of the profile or the side edges. In the first option it will be less reliable fastening. To connect the side edges, you need to bend them and attach them to the profile using 2 fleas on each bent shelf.

Crabs are used for X-shaped fastening of elements. They can also be fixed to a T-shaped connection by first removing one edge.

How to attach a profile to a profile without a crab? To properly connect the profiles, it is necessary to cut off the edges at the junction points, if they interfere, and further strengthen the fastening using self-tapping screws - small screws called “bugs” or “fleas”.

If we need to lengthen the profile, then this can be achieved by joining the profile overlapping or end-to-end - using a piece of an unnecessary profile element or a guide, respectively, fastening them with fleas for reliability.

How to connect profiles?

Many people ask the question: “How to attach a profile to a profile? What is the difference between the screws and each other?” You can fasten elements using various screws, which are called screw bugs, bugs, drill bugs and tacks. But how can you attach profile to profile using self-tapping screws? To do this, you just need to press hard and scroll, marking the point. Therefore, they are not made too long, for convenience.

Bed bugs with a drill, self-tapping screws and screws differ only in that they are intended for different profile thicknesses: bugs with a drill - for profiles up to 1 mm, so that you can simultaneously drill a hole and securely tighten it in one step without a drill and changing attachments on a screwdriver.

How to attach a profile to a profile using a tack screw? This screw is the same bug, but is intended for thick profiles, 1-2 mm. Unlike a small bug, it can be used for profiles, as well as thicker structures, which is very convenient when buying them with a reserve.

Also many self-tapping screws of this type They have special notches that prevent unwinding during operation. No additional drilling is required; the screws are tightened by pressing them into the profile. The following details describe how to attach a profile to a profile.

Profile installation instructions

The profile must be connected with fleas 9.5 mm long. At the corners, it is necessary in the design to remove one side edge to the width of the adjacent part, with the addition of 20 mm for a sheet of drywall so that they are without a gap.

For reliability, the central edge of the adjacent profile can be removed, and the side edges can be bent and fastened to the main profile.

This is a guarantee that the chandelier attached to the frame will not fall over time. But often, even without this addition, the structure is quite strong.

Ear fastening is used for complex elements where one edge is required. For example, to secure a structural element in the form of a rack, vertically to the ceiling, when building a plasterboard wall.

Attaching vertical posts

With this method, you should cut out all unnecessary edges at the junction, leaving the only one necessary for the connection. It should be secured with a dowel at an angle of 45 degrees, at the bend.

Many people make the mistake of attaching only one edge to the ceiling, without a dowel at the bend. In this case, the stand does not hold securely and will wobble. Additional reinforcement of the face usually has no effect - it still moves on the bend.

To build plasterboard walls in a room for the first time, you also need “ears” for installation, that is, the edges of the profile, without the element itself.

The ends of the extra edges of the profile should be removed, leaving the necessary ones, required length. The profile is used for additional fixation of two elements located in parallel.

How to make a metal frame for a wall?

How to attach a profile to a profile? A photo in which you can see the assembled frame of profiles is shown below.

The profile is fastened in the same way, but taking into account the verticality of the surface, without jumpers and many reinforcements. To begin with, use a level to measure the verticality of the future plasterboard wall. By using laser level and with a pencil we draw places for attaching the UD profile. If we only need to stretch the thread along the entire wall, first securing it to the dowel nails.

By manipulating the thread, you need to achieve an even position of the profiles along the perimeter of the wall, so that the thread not only does not touch protrusions and irregularities, but there is also enough space for the CD profile.

How to correctly attach profile to profile when building vertical frame? This is done when the UD profile is attached around the perimeter, after which you need to carefully measure everything and then fix the CD using fleas to the UD profile. They should be no closer than 400 mm from each other; after the exact location of the entire frame, the brackets should be carefully nailed behind them using a dowel-nail.

UD profile marking for ceiling

First, a thread is stretched, along which a reference level is measured, usually about 10 cm below the base. Then the horizontality of the future plane is measured and marks are placed.

Then, according to the marks, you need to attach it to it; in the future, you cannot attach drywall, because the ceiling and walls move relative to each other, depending on the humidity and ambient temperature.

Holes need to be made every 50 cm, for 3 m you need 6 pieces. It is better to stick it on the reverse side before installation sealing tape- it dampens vibrations, protects against cracks and creates additional sound insulation.

Then you need to draw a mark on the wall along the outer hole, then attach the edge to the base and set the profile according to the marks so that it is in horizontal level. Make a hole on the opposite side, again matching all the marks, and only then thoroughly fasten the profile along the remaining holes.

Marking other elements when installing the frame

We measure the side hangers - this is a U-shaped bracket that is attached to the base, in this case to the ceiling, and to the profile.

It should also be determined in advance that at the edges the distance between the profiles does not exceed 120 cm, that is, it is possible to make it less at the edge, but not more than 120 cm, thus we form a line for attaching the main profiles on which the plasterboard sheets will be held.

It is important at this stage to determine the lighting and wiring diagram so that they do not fall on the frame, because it may not withstand the load of the lamp. It is better to attach them to the base, and it is important that the attachment points of the lamps and profiles do not intersect.

When attaching hangers, which in the future will become brackets, it is also important to attach a seal to the flat side and fix it with the skirt down in increments of 1 m.

When is the ceiling frame built? How to attach a profile to a profile?

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We take the main profile, it is often shorter than the ceiling, so the profiles are connected to each other with a special fastener that reliably keeps it from bending.

2. Even the same piece of profile can be used as a fastening. It is very convenient to attach a water level to the profile so that you can work on the level without any problems, without looking up from your workplace and without making unnecessary movements. The profile is attached to the hangers using self-tapping screws.

3. Then, after preliminary assembly, crabs are attached to the main profile - special clamp-connectors that greatly simplify installation load-bearing profiles- short transverse guides, they are attached to the main profile.

4. All other components of the frame are attached to the crabs, depending on the design, because in addition to plasterboard ceiling It is also possible to mount the wall adjacent to the ceiling.

Safety precautions

Do not neglect safety precautions when performing work, use sharp scissors, throw profile trims under your feet into the work area.

Before attaching the profile to the profile, the drywall must be separate place, which will not interfere with your profile or work. All parts, profiles and tools should be located in certain places.

The screwdriver must be in good working order, the cords and the carrier must lie on the floor and in no case be below the possible flight path of the profile piece being cut off.

The stepladder must be stable. Below from working area and the possible fall of a sheet of drywall, your partner and assistants should not move, you need to be a little to the side, but not directly under the sheet.

Correct and reliable installation ensures that the constructed surface will not become deformed and will be durable. How should the frame be attached to the wall and its elements connected to each other?

Fastener selection

Before considering ways to install a profile under wall plasterboard, you should understand what fasteners and tools you may need during the work.

Special fasteners

Manufacturers metal profile They also produce special fasteners designed to connect sections and nodes of the frame being created:

The profile extension is designed for extending metal strips. The insert is made of the same material as all the elements of the future frame and fits in size to the galvanized slats produced by the manufacturer, precisely connecting and strengthening them.
A single-level “crab” quickly and rigidly fixes profiles in one plane. The connection point is additionally twisted with self-tapping screws for reliability.
A two-level connector fastens and fixes profiles located one below the other.
The side connector creates T-shaped connections by securing perpendicular profiles.

To use these special fasteners, you must first create a sketch of the mounted frame and calculate the required number.

Self-tapping screws

Advice! Do not buy self-tapping screws with a drill; small hardware with a sharp tip (the so-called “bugs”) will be more convenient for assembling the frame.

The length of the screws for connecting the metal profile should be 9 or 11 mm. The material from which the hardware is made will not affect the build quality of the structure in any way, so you can buy any available in the store. On average, the consumption of this fastener is 20-25 pieces per 1 sq.m. constructed structure.

Dowel-nails

This fastener is necessary for fixing hangers to concrete or brick wall. Optimal length dowel-nail - 37 mm, and diameter - 6 mm.

Suspensions

Another important one fastener— hangers on which the frame is attached to the wall. They have a U-shape, which is why the craftsmen nicknamed them “crocodiles.” The hangers are fixed along the marking lines on the walls using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails.

The required number of hangers is calculated based on the number of rack profiles. One three-meter element will require 5 “crocodiles”.

Tool selection

To ensure that the installation process goes quickly, and the metal profile does not break or scratch the craftsman, it is important to select the right tool for work.

Metal scissors necessary for cutting profiles. Experts recommend purchasing a tool for figure cutting— its working part is conveniently curved, so when working you will not be scratched or cut on the edges of the structure. If you can’t find such scissors, that’s okay, use regular ones for metal, the main thing is that they are sharp.
Hammer you will need to drill holes in concrete wall under the dowel-nails.
Screwdriver- the main tool for installing the frame and subsequent screwing the plasterboard to it. It is convenient if it runs on a battery rather than on mains power. For a screwdriver, you should buy several PH2 size bits of different lengths (from 50 mm), which will provide access to hard-to-reach places.
Screwdriver with set of bits needed for tightening self-tapping screws in places inaccessible to a screwdriver.

In addition to the main tool, you will need a tape measure, a level, and a fishing line for visualization and control of the surface level.

Profile mounting methods

If novice repairmen do not have any questions about the algorithm for constructing the structure, then problems often arise with the choice of method for attaching the profiles to each other.

There are 3 main methods of attaching a profile to drywall. Basically, they differ in the degree of complexity of the work; according to experts, the methods of joining metal elements have almost no effect on the reliability of the result.

Using special fasteners

The most “correct” installation method involves the use of special fasteners produced by profile manufacturers. In addition to the complexity of calculating the required quantity, inexperienced craftsmen may have problems with building up and fixing racks using these elements.

The main question that arises when using special fasteners is how should the profiles be cut so that they are fixed securely and without dangling, and the stand does not bend or deform? Before cutting elements, you should take careful measurements, and then:

when connected by an extension, the rack elements are shortened by a total of 10-15 mm;
for fixation with crabs and side connectors, the jumpers are shortened by 5 mm.

In general, installing the frame in this way is quite simple; you practically do not need to use self-tapping screws, since all products are firmly snapped onto the profiles. You can use a screwdriver in cases where you find it expedient to additionally strengthen the assembly using hardware.

For self-tapping screws

This is the most popular way of attaching metal frame elements to each other. Of course, the strength of the joints will be lower than in the case of using special elements, but when installing a flat wall without shelves, the load on the joints will be minimal.

Important. This technique is also used in the presence of a non-standard profile, for which it is problematic to find special fasteners of suitable size.

Fastening with self-tapping screws can be done in three ways: without cutting the metal, and with notching and reinforcement.

When fastening without cutting, the profile is fixed on the guide by overlapping and tightening with self-tapping screws. Corner connections also twisted with hardware after joining. Experts do not recommend building up racks in this way - overlapping several profiles on top of each other will inevitably lead to the loss of the correct geometry.
Fastening with a profile cut requires adding 4 cm to the seams on each side when measuring. If no special load is planned on the assembly, the sides on the edges of the part can be cut off with metal scissors, leaving only the base, which will overlap the adjacent rack. For additional reinforcement in lintels or openings, the sides at the junction on both sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees and the profile is folded into a “box”.
An even more reliable fastening of the jumpers is created by placing cut ten-centimeter pieces of profile on both sides of the guides at the junction. The prepared elements are screwed to the area, onto which jumpers are then placed and fixed on the guide and, additionally, on the sides of the reinforcing piece with two or three hardware.

With cutter

The third method of attaching a profile is based on the use of a special tool - a cutter. It is usually used only by professionals, since the price of a quality device is quite significant.

When using a cutter, you almost do not need self-tapping screws and special fasteners; the profiles are connected by making holes in the metal. The tool bends the material around the hole, securely fastening the two elements.

Important. Due to the design features of the cutter, the tool cannot be used in all areas of the frame being constructed. IN hard to reach places you will have to work with a screwdriver and screws.

Let's consider what fastening systems can be used for profiles and drywall depending on the type of work.

To work with drywall, no special skills or experience in the field of construction are required. However, you should know that to create strong and durable drywall structures, you need to use the right fastening systems.

Main types of profiles for drywall

When using a metal profile (we wrote about types of profiles in) you can quickly and efficiently make a frame to which the drywall will be attached.

Rack profile. It is a strip made of galvanized steel. It has a cross-section in the shape of a channel. To give additional strength and rigidity, the profile has longitudinal grooves. The profile is used for wall cladding and as vertical posts.
Guide profile. Made from galvanized strip. Shaped like the letter P. Used as a guide base.
Ceiling profile. Used for installation of single-tier and multi-tier ceilings. Made from galvanized steel.
Corner profile. Used for installation of external and internal corners to give them strength and avoid deformation.

The most commonly used fasteners for installing gypsum plasterboard structures

Fasteners for connecting profiles to each other

Connecting fastener for CD profile. Used to secure profiles at different levels. Has directions perpendicular to each other. Additionally, special screws are required to install this type of fastening. The cost is about 7 rubles.

Extension cord or also called longitudinal connector

Extension cable for CD profile. Used to lengthen profile elements. The fastener is also called a longitudinal connector. Self-tapping screws are used to install the fastening to give the structure additional strength and rigidity. Recommended for use as for installation suspended ceilings, as well as for other types of structures (for example,). Approximate price: 5-8 rubles.

Single-level connectors for CD profile. This type of fasteners is also called crabs.

Single-level connectors for CD profile. This type of fasteners is also called crabs. They are used for repairs large areas when the profile length is not enough. They allow you to quite rigidly connect the frame elements at the same level. Fasteners are placed perpendicularly. To install this type of fastening, no self-tapping screws are required. They are used only in cases of significant load. Otherwise, the structure is secured by snapping the profiles. The cost starts from 7 rubles.

Corner connector for CD profile. Used when installing single-level ceilings.

Corner connector for CD profile. Used when installing single-level ceilings. Can be used instead of a crab fastener. Withstands loads up to 20 kg per square meter. The cost of one connector is from 5 rubles.
Self-tapping screws for profile (lb). Used to connect profile elements to each other. The end of the bug is a drill, so there is no need to pre-prepare the holes; just screw in the screws using a screwdriver.
The step size should be about 25 cm. The price for a package of 1500 pieces is about 300 rubles. Withstands loads of more than 20 kg.

Fasteners for mounting the profile to the surface

Self-tapping screws and dowels

To fasten the profile frame to the wall, use dowels. The most commonly used dowels are made from polymer materials such as nylon or polypropylene. But metal dowels are also used.

The use of such fasteners allows for maximum rigidity and strength of the structure. Depending on the weight of the structure and its area, dowels can be used various sizes and diameter.

Self-tapping screws can be used both for connecting frame elements and for attaching drywall to it. They may differ in shape, size and thread pitch.

The main fastenings are brackets, hangers and rods. Suspensions are attached to the surface using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Direct hanger for CD profile. Also called a U-shaped hang or crocodile.

Direct hanger for CD profile. Also called a U-shaped hang or crocodile. Applicable during installation suspended ceilings. This type fasteners are mounted on the ceiling surface. The fastener can withstand significant loads of up to 40 kg. To impart rigidity and reliability to the structure, the profile should be secured using hangers with a maximum pitch of 50 cm. The cost of one hanger is from 2 rubles.
Anchor suspension. This fastener is also called a pull hanger. Used to connect the CD profile to the ceiling surface. It is used if the straight suspension is not long enough. Maximum load which such fasteners can withstand is 25 kg. The cost depends on the materials and the load that the mount can withstand. Approximate price: 8 rubles. For light loads, you can use plastic dowels and screws.

Suspension with spring. Used for attaching profiles to the ceiling. Helps adjust the height of plasterboard ceilings.

Suspension with spring. Used for attaching profiles to the ceiling. Helps adjust the height of plasterboard ceilings. A mounting rod is used for its installation. The cost is from 4 rubles.
Plinth strip. It is used to protect the lower edge of the insulation, and also serves as a support for the structure and protection from mechanical damage. Before installing it, you should carefully measure the surface. The cost depends on the size and material, and ranges from 80 rubles per 2 meters.
Dowel-nails. This type of fasteners is used for connections between each other frame elements with the main surface.
The use of a simplified installation model helps to significantly reduce the time required to complete the work. It is enough to drill a hole in the main surface and drive a dowel into it with a hammer. The price starts from 0.3 rubles.
Self-tapping screws (ln). Used to connect frame elements to the surface. They have a sharp tip that allows you to connect structural elements without deformation. Profiles should be mounted to a surface or another profile using such fasteners in increments of 25-30 cm. The price for a package of 1500 pieces is about 300 rubles. Withstands significant loads up to 20 kg.

Common types of fasteners for connecting gypsum plasterboard profiles

When purchasing fastening systems, it is very important to check whether the fasteners are straight, whether the galvanized coating is not damaged, and whether they correspond to the stated dimensions. Not all types of such fasteners comply with the standards. Let's consider main types of marriage, which you should first pay attention to.

Insufficient metal thickness.
Presence of rust.
Incorrect rolling.
Inconsistency with the stated dimensions.
Too sparse or weak notch.
The tip is not sharp enough.
Presence of hangnails.
Presence of sagging on plastic stopper for dowel.

It is recommended to purchase such fasteners only from specialized retail outlets, who can provide you with all the necessary information and certificates of authenticity for the goods. By saving on fasteners, you risk not only significantly reducing strength and durability finished design, but also get injured during work.

Installation of a profile under plasterboard on the wall is necessary for reliable fixation of the sheets. Drywall can be attached to wooden slats, stick directly to the wall. But this is used when, for some reason, it is impossible to use a plasterboard profile for metal walls. The article will tell you how to do this correctly.

Plasterboard sheets or gypsum boards are used in many areas when carrying out repair and construction work, such as:

Creating arches (see How to beautifully decorate a plasterboard arch).
Leveling the planes of walls and ceilings.
Creation of multi-level ceilings.
Formation of built-in cabinets and niches.
Decorative finishing.
Decoration of facades.
Renovation inside the building with high humidity, for example, a bathroom (see Finishing a bathroom with plasterboard: work procedure).

The classic version of plasterboard is a sheet made by pressing, with a gypsum core and cardboard for cladding. Drywall is classified according to its purpose.

He can be:

Stenov. It is made in white-gray color, 12.5 millimeters thick. Their price is less than other types plasterboard sheets. Used for:

repair and installation of walls or interior partitions;
creating niches;
making shelves;
registration suspended structures.

Ceiling. It is distinguished by its smaller thickness, no more than 9.5 millimeters, which greatly facilitates the installation of the structure. Used:

for covering the ceiling;
to create multi-level structures;
when creating arches and other curved structures.

Arched. Has the smallest thickness similar materials, no more than 6.5 millimeters. It is used to create various radius structures of different curvatures.
Moisture resistant. Marked as GKLV, outer sheets are painted green. The material almost does not absorb moisture, so it is used when decorating bathrooms, toilets and other rooms where air humidity is high.
Fire resistant. GKLO has a red surface. It is distinguished by a reinforced internal structure, which makes the material resistant to fire and high temperatures.
Facade. Drywall sheets are covered with fiberglass on both sides. Standard thickness they are 12.5 millimeters long, the surface is painted bright yellow.
With insulation. It is a modification of a standard sheet to which a polystyrene foam block is attached with glue. The thickness of the insulation layer can be up to 60 millimeters; walls finished with them have the highest insulation parameters.
Vinyl covered. This modern solution with increased versatility finishing material. On one side of the sheet there is a decorated vinyl covering. When supplied, the gypsum plasterboard kit includes universal profiles and elements of the same color for joining sheets, which allows the installation of walls to be carried out with already ready-made solutions by color.

Drywall sheets can be:

Width over 60 centimeters.
Over 2.5 meters long.

The features of plasterboard sheets determine and different way fastening them with your own hands.

On which profile can drywall be fixed?

For ease of installation, you can use a plasterboard wall profile, which comes in four types:

Two of them are used for mounting frames on walls and for making partitions.
Two - for installing a frame on the ceiling.

The standard length of the elements is three or four meters. The thickness of the metal used for their manufacture is from 0.4 to 0.8 millimeters. The best option with a profile thickness of at least 0.55 millimeters. In addition, two types of elements are used for finishing plasterboard surfaces.

According to their purpose, profiles are:

Rack or PS. They have a C-shape with longitudinal grooves. The base of the element is the “back”, its width ranges from 50-100 millimeters, and the sides are “shelves”, their size is always 50 millimeters, used for installing partitions and cladding the room. Used when installing vertical racks.
Guides or PN. Manufactured in U-shape with dimensions:

40 mm shelf width, always constant;
from 50 to 100 millimeters, base dimensions.

They are used to create partitions and wall frames. During installation, it is fixed to the ceiling and floor, creating a rigid frame for the main structure.

Ceiling or PP, with dimensions: 60x27 millimeters, have three identical longitudinal grooves. Used to construct a suspended structure.
Ceiling guides or PNP, their dimensions: 28x27 millimeters. Used for mounting frames on ceilings and how vertical element for walls.
Corner or PU, sizes that are: 31x31, 25x25 millimeters. Used to strengthen corners. They are made external or internal, which differ in parameters and purpose.
Arched or PA have a curved or convex shape. Serve for registration doorways arched type and creation of complex suspended structures of wave-like shape.

As additional elements are used:

Connecting sleeve to increase the length of PP profiles.
The crab is made in a cross shape and is used at the intersection of profile elements, as in the photo, which increases the strength of the structure. The two-level crab is mounted on the upper-level PP and firmly fixes the metal profile of the lower level.

Straight hanging element attached to the surface and bent along special lines. Then the profiles are installed and fixed into the U-shaped opening. Excess “ears” are carefully bent or cut off.

Tip: When using such a fastener, it is necessary that the under-ceiling space is no more than 6 centimeters.

Clamps and rods of anchor suspensions. With their help, you can adjust the height of the inter-ceiling space in the range from 25 to 100 centimeters. The supporting part of the element ensures a stable location of the PCB.

How to choose hardware for mounting profiles

Hardware for fixing guides and hangers should be selected based on the type of surfaces for which they are intended.

For example:

For walls and ceilings made of concrete, the profile or anchor hangers are fixed with dowels, the dimensions of which are 6x60 or 6x40 millimeters, which depends on the quality of the surfaces.
On wooden bases, screws measuring 6x70, 6x80 millimeters are used for fastening.
All metal structural elements, such as: straight hangers to ceiling profiles, rack-mount profiles to guides, couplings, crabs, are best fixed together with self-tapping screws with a pointed end, dimensions 3.5x11 millimeters.
Drywall is attached to metal profiles with self-tapping screws with fine threads of 3.5x25 millimeters, made of galvanized steel. In this case, there is no need to make any holes first.
Profile guides for making plasterboard ceiling racks can be fixed with special drop-down dowels, ensuring reliable fastening.

What tools are needed when installing profile elements?

The profile for plasterboard walls is attached to:

Direct hangers.
Anchor hangers.
Crab connectors.

To install the frame and lay insulation you will need to prepare:

Hammer for drilling holes for installing dowels.
Screwdriver.
Electric drill with a special attachment for fixing drywall.
Screwdriver.
Staple profile or cutter.
Rasp.
Jigsaw.
Wire cutters.
Construction level with magnetic side.
Water level.
Laser level.
Chockline or painter's cord.
Blue.
Plumb.
Metal or wooden square.
Dowels and drills for them, 6 mm in diameter.
Self-tapping screws, 4 mm in diameter.
For cutting profiles, metal scissors.
Double-sided tape.
Protective gloves.
A mask to protect the face when working with insulation.

How to mount a profile on the ceiling

Tip: Before purchasing a metal profile for installing drywall, you should correctly calculate its quantity.

For this:

The dimensions of the room are measured.
A layout diagram of the profiles is drawn taking into account the location of the rack elements in increments of 40 or 60 centimeters, the dimensions are taken along the axes of the elements, provided that entire sheets of drywall are attached to the frame. This is due to the fact that usually a sheet of drywall is made 1.2 meters wide, and it should be attached to three, or better yet, four rack parts. In this case, the joints of the plasterboard sheets should be located in the middle of the profile in order to subsequently avoid the formation of cracks on the wall.

After purchasing materials and tools, you can begin work.

Tip: When planning the finishing of the entire room, work must begin with the installation of a frame on the ceiling. Very often its surface has a deviation from an angle of 90°. If you start working from the walls, adjust plasterboard panels It will be quite difficult at the top.

Conducted electric installation work, the cable is supplied to the locations lighting fixtures. In this case, the length of the wire is taken with a margin of up to 15 centimeters.
The functionality of all wiring connections is checked. During installation spotlights, the passage of metal structural elements is carefully planned.
It is determined how far it will fall new ceiling. In this case, the installation of spotlights must be taken into account; you will need to know their height, which can range from 5 to 15 centimeters.
A point is marked on the wall from which all markings will be made. Using a laser level it is planned horizontal line pencil or upholstery cord.
The required length of the part is measured with a tape measure and cut with metal scissors. The profiles can be easily joined by inserting one end into the other, with an overlap of at least 30 millimeters, then this point is fixed with the appropriate fastener.
Along the lines drawn in advance on the walls, PNP is mounted through the existing working holes on the profile; if they are missing, they are drilled in half-meter increments with a hammer drill or electric drill, which depends on the base of the wall on which the frame is attached.
Markings are made to fix the ceiling profiles. For this:

you need to retreat about 60 centimeters from the wall, due to the unevenness of the walls;
the level checks the accuracy of the location of the marks;
the profile, which is used as a ruler, connects the marks on opposite walls - this line will be the “point” of reference;
lines are drawn parallel to it in increments of 60 centimeters across the entire area of the ceiling.

In the same way, the ceiling is marked along the length of the room.
Straight suspensions are fixed with dowels at intervals of 60 centimeters; the center of their base should be located along the marked line. It is better to additionally install traverses at the installation points of instruments or equipment.

Advice: Prepare for future use ceiling profiles for installation of drywall is not necessary, the distance between the walls is different points premises may vary significantly. For each profile, the length should be measured separately, and its value should be approximately 2 centimeters less than the width of the room.

Ceiling profiles are installed in the guides so that the central groove comes out at the risk. Their position is fixed with one self-tapping screw. If necessary, a coupling is used.
Jumpers 60 centimeters long are cut from the ceiling profile using metal scissors, and the cross members that will be needed for installation from the wall to the first longitudinal element are two centimeters shorter than the existing distance.
During the work, it is necessary to control the coincidence of the profile groove and the marks on the walls.
In places where the transverse element is connected to the longitudinal one, a single-level “crab” is used and secured with self-tapping screws.
Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. Wherein:

to the PP a level is attached to each connection point;
after checking all places, the deviations are adjusted;
all elements are securely fixed.

Plasterboard sheets are installed.

How to mount a metal profile on a wall

Tip: Before installing a wall frame made of a metal profile, all work related to electricity is carried out: wires are supplied to switches, sockets, lighting fixtures, and all household devices.

The technology for installing a wall frame consists of finishing each wall separately.

The instructions for attaching the frame to walls made from a plasterboard profile suggest the following procedure for performing the work:

Walls with windows require special attention when constructing the frame. If you need to insulate walls, vertical profiles are installed at a distance of 50 millimeters from the old slopes.
The width of the window sill has an influence; when finishing the walls after its installation, the marking of the frame starts from the window. But the thickness of the plasterboard sheet must also be taken into account; it can be 12.5 or 9.5 millimeters.
A square is applied to the frame and the required distance is measured, adding 5 centimeters on the other side of the opening. You can immediately install a PN to the “bottom” of the window sill, with a pitch of vertical posts of up to 60 centimeters.
The risks are applied building level, which will help transfer them to the side planes of the window sill.
The marks on the floor and ceiling are connected.
The profile guides are installed along these lines:

on the sides of the window, the verticals in this case are marked from these profiles in increments of 60 centimeters;
one of them must be installed in the corner of the room.

The hangers are mounted in increments of 60 centimeters, with the center strictly along the line.
Rack profiles are installed in the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the mark on the floor and ceiling, and then they are connected to each other.
The level regulates the verticality of the elements on the shelves and base.
The final fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
The crossbars are fixed using a “crab”. A horizontal lintel is installed above the opening.
After complete fixation metal frame to the wall, you need to sketch the placement of the transverse and longitudinal profiles. This diagram will be required if there is a need to place paintings on the wall, an additional shelf, or attach a decorative flowerpot to the ceiling.
In this case, so-called “umbrellas”, “butterflies” and other similar elements are used for fastening, which are fastened according to this principle: a plastic dowel, when screwing in a screw, spreads its “wings”, which ensures reliable fastening with reverse side plasterboard sheet.

How to cover walls with plasterboard wooden profiles, the video in this article will show in detail. At correct implementation everyone installation work, finishing the room with plasterboard sheets will be of good quality.

Proper fastening of the profile guarantees reliability plasterboard construction. During work, you have to connect and extend parts, use various dowels and screws for installation.

Fastening the profile frame to wooden bases made using black or galvanized self-tapping screws with a large thread pitch. For installation on concrete, block and brick surfaces There are various fasteners:

Dowel-nail with a mushroom head - quick fastening of the frame to the wall; dowels with a diameter of 6–10 mm and a length of 30 mm are used;
Nylon or polypropylene dowel - for any wall, used with screws with a diameter of 2–6 mm;
The expansion dowel (“hedgehog”) is horizontal, and with a length of more than 50 mm and vertical fastening in concrete;
Anchor metal dowel – reliable installation on the ceiling, the size is selected depending on the load;
Dowel-hook – for attaching a wire hanger;
Ceiling wedge anchor – for vertical installation hammered way.

Metal guides and connecting parts are fastened together in three ways:

Self-tapping screws such as a press washer (“bugs”) with a drill or with a sharp tip;
Pre-drilled rivets;
Using a cutter - a special tool that pierces through the walls of the profile and bends the metal petals along the sides of the hole.

In the process of constructing a frame for drywall, it is necessary to lengthen the profiles or join them at right angles:

The extension is carried out with a direct connecting element, into which the two ends of the joined profiles are inserted and fixed with “bugs”;
The cross-shaped connection is made with a “crab”: the ends of four profiles are snapped into it, then the antennae are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws;
Fastening without crabs: the transverse profiles are cut along the fold, the side is bent, then they are placed on the longitudinal guide and fixed;
The T-shaped connection is made using the same method or a cut “crab” is used;
When joining the rack and guide profiles, the first is inserted into the latter and tightened with a self-tapping screw.

The procedure for installing a vertical profile:

The profile is cut 1 cm shorter than the distance between the installed lower and upper guide and inserted between them;
Marks are made on the wall every 60 cm on each side of the profile, the workpiece is pulled out;
Hangers are placed across the lines, holes are drilled and nail dowels are installed;
The workpiece is placed in place, attached to the guides with screws;
The vertical profile is aligned with the cord and screwed to the hangers;
The protruding parts of the plates are bent inward.

Horizontal jumpers are attached to vertical guides using one of the previously discussed methods.

The profile is mounted to the ceiling surface using hangers, which come in two types:

Direct hangers are perforated plates, bent in the shape of the letter “P”, the profile is secured to them with self-tapping screws with a press washer;
Suspensions with traction - consist of a spoke, an expanding element and a shaped plate that snaps into the protrusions of the profile.

If there are no factory hangers, they are made independently from the remaining scraps. The profile pieces are cut along the sides and bent at an angle of 90°. The resulting mount is highly reliable and inexpensive.

After getting acquainted with the advice of professionals, the work will go easier, and most importantly, correctly. Beginning with flat designs and gaining skills, gradually move on to complex forms and become real masters.