• A budget option- heating cables and mats
• Radiant energy – comfort for years
• Let's start work
• There's plenty to choose from

For a long time, comfortable floor heating seemed like an unnecessarily expensive luxury associated with considerable technological difficulties. About the coil from steel pipes no longer remember - archaism. Today, with the advent of new materials on the market, the installation of electric heated floors is available to the home craftsman.

The electrical heating system of the room has been simplified in design, guaranteed durability and safety are attractive. It is important that energy saving is at the forefront. And operation is not so expensive. Having the necessary skills and knowledge in electrical engineering, it is quite possible to perform a fairly simple installation with your own hands.

Budget option - heating cables and mats

The simplest and most inexpensive option is to lay a snake under a layer of 5 cm of cement-sand screed of one of two types of cable: resistive with 1 - 2 heating cores or self-regulating with a polymer matrix between 2 conductors. The matrix can change thermal conductivity due to an increase in resistance with increasing temperature. It is not difficult to lay the material with your own hands.

A novice developer should prepare thoroughly. Lay a heating element onto the prepared surface, it is necessary to carefully observe the specified step; bends are allowed only smooth, large radius. Important reliable fastening to the base to avoid shifting when laying and pouring mortar. The cable should not be located under furniture or plumbing fixtures. That is, for bathrooms with unchanged installation of appliances and hallways, this type of heating is suitable. IN living rooms– with restrictions.

It is advisable to use such a layer cake made of screed and heat and moisture insulators in a new building. In a habitable apartment, vertical floor lifts of 6–8 cm are unsafe and take away the height of the room. The disadvantages of this system become advantages with the complex geometry of the internal perimeter of the housing. And if necessary, heat external elements: drains, ebbs, roofs, porches.

A self-regulating cable with a cross-section of up to 3 mm, fixed to a polymer mesh, is called a cable floor on a base or heating mats. These heaters can be easily installed with your own hands. To install, simply roll out and secure. They are produced in strips up to 1 m wide and up to 25 m long. It is good to lay tiles on the mats; a layer of glue will completely cover them. To lay under the laminate you will need a layer of screed of 3 cm.

Under furniture and plumbing equipment Laying is not recommended. Areas with semicircular walls and oblique corners are not suitable for installation. If necessary, for a complete set, it is possible to purchase a set that includes a thermostat with a temperature sensor and a corrugated pipe for installing a sensor inside it. The thermoregulation system will prevent the home from overheating.

Return to contents

Radiant energy – comfort for years

Infrared two-layer films made of electrical polyester with carbon heating elements are the most technologically advanced for installation. Energy saving characteristics are the highest. A material about 0.5 mm thick and a smaller insulating cake make it possible to reduce the load on the floors and maintain the height of the room. Air ionization due to the fact that the infrared spectrum is natural ionizing radiation– an additional plus.

At a higher price, such a heat supply system during operation will save up to 60% of heating costs. The electricity consumption of a house without other heat sources will be a maximum of 40 W/h per square meter. m. Due to its simplicity, installation can be done with your own hands. Therefore, the investment will pay off sooner.

Since the film does not heat up, the likelihood of possible failure is negligible. Cutting is permitted only in designated areas. The length of the strips cannot exceed 8 m. Laying must take into account the designations top - bottom. For laying under ceramic tiles the rod version is used infrared film. Important: shoes must have soft soles so as not to damage the film.

If you are reading this article, then you are probably thinking about installing a water-heated floor in your home. Now you are looking for information about what thickness of water heated flooring is needed for heated floors in your home.

In fact, you are probably interested in one of two questions:

• thickness of all layers of water heated floor;
• thickness of water heated floor screed.

We will analyze each question individually. Let us introduce the concept of not the thickness of a water heated floor, but .

A pie of water heated floor is called all the layers of water heated floor, connected together. It looks something like this:

The heated floor pie or the so-called thickness consists of the following elements:

1. , which is mounted along the edges of the walls and serves to compensate for the expansion of the concrete screed. Its height is 15-20 cm from the rough screed. It is not taken into account in thickness calculations.
2. , used more often in the form of polystyrene. It serves to cut off the lower layers from heating by warm floors. Thus, you save on coolant consumption and warm water floors work as they should. The thickness of polystyrene on the ground floor in cold regions should be 10 cm. In regions with a temperate climate, the thickness will be 5 cm. But it’s still better to be overprotected than underprotected. Therefore, take a thickness of 10 cm as a basis.
3. Polyethylene. Mounted on thermal insulation to create an additional greenhouse effect. Its thickness is in general We won't take it into account.
4. MAC mesh. It is mounted on thermal insulation and serves as a convenient way to lay pipes on it. Its thickness is ideally 4mm.
5. . Our main distributor of heat. The height of the 16th pipe is approximately 2cm.
6. Concrete screed. Today, manufacturers recommend M-300 grade concrete mixture for pouring. From my experience, I recommend brands M-200, 250, 300. The thickness of the water heated floor screed is 5 cm from the top of the pipe! This is exactly what is needed for competent work water heated floor.
7. Finish coating. Parquet or tiles. A thickness of 2 cm is taken as a basis.

Thickness of water heated floor screed

As mentioned above, the thickness of a heated floor screed recommended by the manufacturer is approximately 5 cm. There are, of course, options when pouring a screed for a water heated floor to a thickness of 10 cm. Here the system begins to work on the principle of heat accumulation.

There is no rigid connection in the height of the screed. As practice shows, it is very rarely possible to achieve the recommended values. Therefore, the main thing is minimum thickness The screed above the heated floor pipes should be at least 5 cm. The maximum thickness of the screed should not exceed 10 cm. And then the size of the screed will be ideal for the operation of the heated floor.

Any owner of a private home has encountered a heating problem. Especially important element heating are the floors. Proper floors do not allow dampness into the house and retain heat in it for a long time. IN Lately Floors on the ground are rapidly gaining popularity.

They are effective because they are practical, reliable and relatively inexpensive. If during construction it is not planned basement, then on the ground in a private house - one of best options thermal insulation.

This structure is built directly on the ground, taking into account all its unevenness and will help prevent cold from entering from its surface. This option is far from the simplest, but it can be implemented independently, without hiring workers or equipment.

Such floors have nothing to do with baking. They are called "pies" due to the fact that their thermal insulation has many layers and they look slightly like a layer cake. If you still decide to build, then keep in mind that heated floors on the ground require some measurements.

For example, groundwater should not be too high, because this will cause your “pie” to “float”. You should also make sure that the soil is strong enough, because the entire structure can simply settle. You should also remember that the “pie” reduces the height of the room, and dismantling such a structure is a difficult task, so everything must be done correctly the first time.

Preparing the base

The structure of your structure includes several layers, and therefore several stages too.

Don't start next stage without completely completing the previous one.

The first thing we must do is prepare the foundation directly on the ground itself. To do this you need:

• remove a layer of soil. This must be done necessarily, because the fertile layer is usually loose, and the remains of vegetation can then begin to rot and decompose - this will cause bad smell, and it will be impossible to stay in the room. The floor pie requires about 20 centimeters, or even more (depending on the region).

• Tip: measure each level and calculate how deep the soil needs to be removed. Leave marks on each level to make it easier to navigate;

• remove all debris and stones. This is also very important, because one unnoticed pebble can cause unevenness;
• The remaining clean soil should be leveled and compacted. This must be done very evenly - according to the level.

Separating layer

To prevent anything from moving apart, the base of the pit must be lined with geotextile or dornite. It is better to choose the first one, because it also protects against weed germination.

The correct underfloor heating pie must be separated from parts of the foundation and plinth (the lower part of the building wall lying on the foundation) with a special layer. It is strictly forbidden to rest the slab on protruding parts of the structure.

The correct floor should be made in the form of a floating screed.

Substrate

Further, some variability is allowed. So that the floors are on the ground the right pie not settled, there are several installation options. The underlying layer must be selected taking into account the height of groundwater, expected loads, the same looseness of the soil, and so on.

Most often, a concrete layer is used - this is the most reliable and proven option. But there are cases when it is impossible to use concrete, then the following materials can be used:

• sand. It is used exclusively on dry soils to avoid water absorption through small holes in the sand. It is noteworthy that such a process can occur even in cases where dew forms on the surface. It will also be more difficult with sand because it needs to be compacted perfectly evenly, again, this needs to be done with the help of a level;
• crushed stone Crushed stone works well when high level groundwater. Capillary suction is completely impossible in the crushed stone layer. Laying should also occur evenly;
• natural soil. It is used quite rarely and is most often coarse sand or gravelly soil (soil containing grains larger than 2 mm, but less than 50 mm). It will do if not groundwater, no particular looseness of the soil is observed.
• expanded clay This will do too.

Mineral wool slabs will be an excellent insulation material ( thermal insulation material, which is made from mineral wool and a synthetic binder). They have high density, quite strong and live a long time. Such slabs are laid in two layers; they can be vulnerable to moisture, so they need to be treated with a water-repellent substance.

Footing

Whatever bonding material you use, you will still need a footing. You'll need a skinny one concrete mixture B 7.5. We remind you that lean concrete is concrete in which the content of cement and water is reduced and the content of filler is increased.

This material is much “weaker” than its “fat” counterpart, but at the same time cheaper. In our case, it is not advisable to use a stronger concrete composition.

The footing is not reinforced, but must be separated from the base or parts of the foundation. Pieces of foam plastic or special tape are suitable for this.

If you want to further reduce the cost of laying a floor on the ground, you can use saturation of the upper layers of crushed stone with cement laitance. The resulting crust should be perfectly smooth and its depth should be several centimeters. This trick will help make a waterproof concrete crust.

Waterproofing and insulation

Finally we got to waterproofing and insulation. At this stage it is necessary to isolate yourself from moisture. We will do this at the expense waterproofing film or a special membrane. Lay the film overlapping, and seal the cracks at the joints with construction tape.

The first thing you need to put is waterproofing material, not thermal insulation.

Use a layer of expanded polystyrene foam or dense polystyrene as insulation. You can also use special plates, but we recommend doing this only if the load on the surface of the structure is large.

You can choose the thickness of the layer yourself depending on the climatic conditions of the region, usually from 5 to 20 centimeters. Fill joints and cracks with construction foam.

Lay another layer on top of the resulting “sandwich” waterproofing material or just roofing felt. This is not necessary, but if you live in a humid region with high groundwater– it’s better to play it safe.

Damper layer

Lay a damper tape over the walls, which will be slightly higher than the planned thickness of the screed. This is necessary in order to isolate the future screed from load-bearing elements foundation or plinth.

We remind you: the floor on the ground is strictly prohibited from being rigidly connected to the elements of the base.

Instead of tape, you can use strips of polystyrene foam, which also need to be laid a little higher. The excess pieces can then be trimmed off.

Floating screed

This screed performs several functions at once: it produces thermal insulation and sound insulation at the same time. The design feature of this screed is that the solution is placed on the surface of the insulation, and not on the base.

Well, or on a layer of roofing felt, if you covered the insulation on top with it. Here's what you need to pay attention to:

• It is advisable to do everything at once. In large rooms this will not be possible, so separate the finished and unfinished areas with partitions. This will create expansion joint and will help the screed to fully grasp;
• if possible, pour along the plaster beacons;
• The thickness of the screed should not exceed 20 centimeters, the minimum – not less than 5. Focus on the expected operational loads and the type of future floor covering.

Floor reinforcement on the ground

Reinforcement – important stage which will help strengthen concrete screed. The metal mesh will also serve to secure the pipes on it.

The reinforcing mesh should be a wire with square cells with a thickness of 5 to 10 centimeters. Depending on the design features thickness may vary.

The mesh is laid as follows:

• extends from below protective layer – polymer material. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1.5 - 3 centimeters.
• mesh installation;
• installation of special beacons (in small rooms it is not necessary);
• pouring the mixture.

Walking on unhardened mixture is not advisable; it is better to install special paths along which you will move. Even when the mixture is taken, it is better to continue walking along these paths, metal mesh have a much lower density and can bend under the weight of a person.

Stiffening ribs under the partitions

In order for the warm water floor to hold better, it needs to be strengthened. This is done due to stiffening ribs. To create them, material is placed under the partitions, which consists entirely of closed small cells.

The material must be laid intermittently, and the resulting voids must be used for laying reinforcement. Thus, it should turn out that the entire structure is evenly reinforced with reinforcing bars.

Heated floor contours

For even greater savings, you can install it in a warm floor on the ground, this will create a literally warm floor. Reinforced mesh has just the right dimensions for placing a heating pipe on it.

To connect to the collectors, the pipes are led outside near the walls. The walls must be covered with protective tape. As for all other communications, they require a similar system.

After the final filling of the “pie” everything will be ready. Then you are free to make the floor the way you want. This design is just one of possible options, if you wish, you can modify any of its elements. It all depends on your finances and construction conditions.

Video: heated floor pie on the ground

Once again about heated floor pie and how to prepare the foundation for it. I repeat some things from the previous article, but this is not because of memory lapses, but because you need to pay attention to these things - definitely.

Composition of the “pie” of a heated floor with a concrete screed

Layers of heated floors with concrete screed were discussed in the previous article, here I will list them again (from bottom to top):

• insulation;
• polyethylene film;
• reinforcement mesh (you can do without it, but with it it is more convenient to install the pipe and the floor will be stronger);
• heated floor pipes;
• concrete screed.

Everything else that is above and below what is listed is actually warm floor does not apply, but will still be mentioned here, because it plays a role.

What is the thickness of each layer in the heated floor “pie”?

"What is the thickness of each layer?" - the most urgent, the most actual question when designing warm water floors.

When designing a heated floor, you need to count the thickness of the layers from the finished floor down and then arrange at this depth rough screed. Usually the finished floor is tied to the edge of the foundation (foundation base), that is, we count from the top of the base, but check in your specific case.

Since the majority heated floors is mounted on the ground floor, then there is a soil foundation or a concrete floor of the first floor. In the presence of concrete floor The issue with preparing the base, one might say, has been resolved, just sweep it thoroughly and scrape off the stuck pieces of mortar, if any...

It is more difficult with a soil base; it must first be prepared for installation of the heated floor: leveled, compacted thoroughly so that the base is dense. Well, the word “soil” does not mean that it could be earth, some kind of black soil or clay. Means PGS ( Sand and gravel), screenings, crushed stone, gravel - well compacted. It would be more correct to call this “soil” base a “cushion”.

So, a rough screed is poured over the “pillow”. You will determine the thickness of this screed by reading the article to the end, and then taking a tape measure and measuring it in your home...

On the rough screed we put thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 100-115 mm, but not less than 50 mm (which, by the way, is actually not enough, but sometimes there is nowhere to go because we missed the height doorways; for the second floor and above 50 mm is enough):

The density of polystyrene for heated floors is at least 30...35 kg/m3, since the density of the insulation affects not only the strength of the floor, but also the heat loss through the insulation.

Polyethylene is laid on top of the thermal insulation:

Film thickness is at least 150...200 microns.

Reinforcing mesh laid on top of polyethylene, preferably from a rod with a diameter no thinner than 4 mm:

Pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene:

We allot another 20 mm to the pipe with the mesh.

A screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm from the top of the pipe is poured on top. More is possible - up to 10 cm. This screed is not only a base for a finished floor, but also a heat accumulator. Accordingly, the thicker and more massive it is, the more heat it can accumulate, which is important in case of force majeure situations in the form of a gas/electricity outage or other problems. However, it is better not to make a screed larger than 80 mm.

You cannot save on concrete, because it is a load-bearing base that takes the load from furniture, people and everything else that is and will be in the room. Concrete grade from M200 and higher.

For the final coating, which will be laid on the screed, we allocate another 20 mm if it is tile, porcelain stoneware, etc., and up to 40 mm if it is parquet. In general, the thickness of the finished floor covering will depend on the material of the covering, so it is advisable to know in advance.

By adding up all the listed thicknesses, we determine at what depth to pour the rough screed:

20 mm finished floor + 50 mm finishing screed+ 20 mm pipe with mesh + 50 mm insulation = minimum 140 mm from the top of the base to the surface of the rough screed. Thus, the thickness of the rough screed will be equal to the remaining distance to the soil base (if this distance is very large, then add gravel, screenings, or whatever you have...).

Again: The minimum thickness of the heated floor “pie” itself is 140 mm.

Important! If you are planning to install a warm floor on top of the ceiling of the first floor, then this calculated size must be taken into account, since the floor will rise on it, which will entail alteration of the doorways if they are not of sufficient height.

The minimum thickness of the rough screed is 50 mm. By building regulations It is advisable to reinforce the rough screed, since it will bear the weight of all upper layers and furniture.

Under the rough screed, you can also lay a layer of polystyrene 50 mm thick. This is not necessary, but it will not be worse, only better... but not necessarily.

The optimal pipe pitch is 150 mm. But if there are large stained glass windows, then the step along them is reduced to 100 mm. The distance from the walls to the first turn of the pipe is at least 100 mm. But this will be discussed further in articles on installation, but that’s all about underfloor heating with a concrete screed for now.

heated floor pie, heated floor screed

The installation of a heated floor is considered complex in itself. engineering problem. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the step-by-step design.

Laying heated floors on the ground is a complex engineering undertaking. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long service life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the floor covering under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the recommendations for device technology.

Which pipes are suitable for heated floors?

The first thing you need to do is decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue of purchasing the right type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know the pipe fastening system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start by refusing pipes that do not have such a purpose as being used in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipe. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter conduct heat poorly and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. This could also be a reinforcing mesh to which the pipes are tied with wire, but imagine installing it in this way over an area of ​​100 m2 or more, or if suddenly several ties come off during the process of pouring concrete. Therefore, a mounting base or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.

The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the pipe material. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the installation technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubes are easy to install; for soldering you will need a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper the best way manifests itself in “fast” underfloor heating systems, which operate in parallel with radiators, but not on an ongoing basis. Bend copper tubes are carried out according to a template; therefore, their fracture is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically unbreakable, but installation will require a special crimping tool. Polyethylene can have different densities, but not lower than 70% is recommended. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists the diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of such length can entrain significant volumes of oxygen from the external environment.

Soil preparation

When installing a heated floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But this data is important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, the earthen floor is deepened and not sacrificing the height of the room.

In general, the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled horizontal plane, the layer of geotextile is backfilled with incompressible material; in most cases, ASG is used for this.

After careful manual compaction of the backfill, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the pie plus about another 10-15 mm.

Choice of insulation

A water-heated floor pie consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. The insulation itself is subject to a fairly narrow range of requirements.

Compressive strength is mainly standardized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is typical that the minimum thickness of the slab is 40 mm, while when constructing a reflective screen made of EPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.

Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require waterproofing. Many may be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10-15 mm of EPS or 60 mm of mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values ​​​​should be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and any movement or vibration is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If used mineral wool, the concrete preparation must first be coated with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but to adjust the inertia of the heated floor, you can freely “play” with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subject to heating, is poured after fencing the walls with damper tape. For convenience, pouring the accumulating screed can be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15-20 mm is poured with reinforcement with a sparse mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting surface and attach the pipe installation system; the remainder is poured to the level of the zero mark, minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 — sand and gravel backfill; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - water vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 — reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 — flooring; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

Laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a pre-designed diagram drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate turn of the loop.

The same principle applies when zoning the floor. For example, in play area the tubes can be laid in more frequent increments, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In every single turn rectangular shape, depending on the heating priority, the tubes can be laid either as a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the flow, the lower its temperature, on average there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, optimal length loops are in the range of 50-80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser laying is possible using a “snail” pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to maintain a distance equal to 20-30 times the diameter of the tube. You also need to make adjustments for the thickness of the accumulating screed and the desired rate of heating of the floor.

The installation system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the layer concrete preparation Accordingly, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% greater than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should create an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all the loops are secured in installation system, they are being checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, it is poured upper layer accumulating screed.

Including heated floors in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole sections of pipe without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be led either to local collectors or led directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is a short distance from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the manifold assembly. Each of the outlets is supplied shut-off valves, installed on the supply tubes Ball Valves with a red flywheel, on the return - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.

An example of a diagram for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 — expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet for underfloor heating

The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators; two-pipe and combined schemes inclusions. In addition to the thermostat, collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that support comfortable temperature The coolant in the supply is about 35-40 ºС.