Even at the design stage of building a house, it is worth deciding on the roofing covering and the angle of the roof, since for each type manufacturers indicate limit value, at which installation can be carried out. Most often, for ceramic tiles, the recommendations indicate an angle of 20° - 60° degrees, but the same type of tile different manufacturers may differ - it depends on the location and shape of the hooks. You also need to remember that the rafter system serves as the basis for the roof, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its strength. Read on in our article to learn how to properly install ceramic tiles and learn all the intricacies of the technology for laying them.

Technology for laying ceramic tiles

As mentioned above, laying ceramic tiles is possible on slopes with different slopes; it is only important to observe General requirements installation, depending on the specific manufacturer.

• If the roof slope is 10°-15° degrees, when installing the tiles it is necessary to ensure maximum tightness and good drainage of rainwater. To do this, use rigid sheathing made of OSB boards or wooden planks, which are covered with a roofing film or roofing felt layer.
• If the angle of inclination exceeds 65° degrees, it is necessary to install a very stable and strong one, and lay the tiles using nails or wires on the sheathing slats. This angle of inclination is subject to certain risks, so it is necessary to consult a highly qualified specialist and the manufacturer.

The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out in such a way that the resulting coating becomes very rigid, but at the same time elastic - like scales that perfectly adapt to the figured shape of the roof, various deformations or shifts in the supporting foundation.

Ceramic tiles- This is a piece and very heavy roofing material. Depending on the type of tile, the weight of one element can reach 3.5-3.7 kg, and total weight square meter of roofing ranges from 30 to 75 kg.

It is thanks to this massiveness that it remains very stable on the roof, creating an excellent soundproofing barrier.

The significant weight of the material ensures reliable truss structure, capable of withstanding significant external loads. When the choice is made, then at the design stage of the building construction, a significant strengthening of the rafters by 15-25% should be provided.

Finished design roofs covered with ceramic tiles are 5 times heavier than metal roofing and almost 10 times heavier.

There is a special requirement for the wood used in the rafter system - this is ideal drying, which will avoid significant deformation of the roof during operation.

Load calculation

Load calculations are carried out taking into account the specific angle of the roof, possible snow, wind and rain loads for a given region, further maintenance and the ability to withstand heavy material.

The roofing structure used for ceramic tiles must withstand a load of at least 250 kg per square meter.

It is generally accepted to install this roof on a rigid base, so the board cladding must have adequate strength. When arranging a residential attic, they use cladding made of boards covered with a layer of waterproofing film or super-diffuse membrane.

Installation of ceramic tiles

Installation natural tiles It has characteristics, in which it is worth taking into account the design cross-section of the rafters (the optimal cross-section of the timber is 70 x 150 mm), the step taken when installing them (800-900 mm), the wooden sheathing and the further laying of the “roofing pie”.

The roof frame does not have a noticeable effect on other elements - the mauerlat, crossbars, racks, so there is no significant change in the size of these elements. When laying tiles, it is worth considering the angle of inclination of the roof slope - as it increases, the pitch between the rafters widens.

Laying insulation

If attic floor It is planned to be used as a living space, it needs to be insulated. It is best to use mineral wool based on basalt fiber for this. This thermal insulation material has long proven its excellent qualities in the field of energy saving, heat and ecology. In addition, it has a number of other advantages.

Mineral wool based on basalt fiber:

• Does not allow moisture to pass through;
• Does not burn;
• Has excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics;
• Has a relatively low price.

On the inside of the insulation, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer made of polyethylene on a fabric basis and reinforced with reinforcing mesh. The width of the heat-insulating layer placed between the rafters must be no less than their height.

Next, a waterproofing layer is laid, in which gaps are left for ventilation of the under-roof space - this will ensure the protection of the wooden elements of the roof, and water vapor or atmospheric moisture will freely escape outside.

Lathing and counter-lattice

1. To make the counter-lattice, most often they use wooden blocks with a cross-section of 70 x 70 mm, which are mounted on the top of the rafters, in longitudinal direction. To fasten them, nails 100 mm long are used.
2. Then the sheathing is done - its slats are placed perpendicularly. Thanks to the fastening of the sheathing, a ventilation gap is formed between the tiles and the boardwalk, which provides natural ventilation and minimizes the effect of moisture on the coating.

Installation

Before starting work, the tiles are packaged along the entire perimeter of the roof slope - small stacks of 4-6 pieces are placed to prevent the occurrence of uneven loads.

Packaging of tiles on slopes

A layer of tiles is placed on top of the mounted frame, starting from the eaves overhang - from the bottom to the upper ridge of the roof, moving from left to right. This installation will allow you to obtain a durable and rigid coating, since the top row of tiles will press the bottom one.

Modern tiles have profiled hooks on the back side - grooves that are located in the vertical and horizontal direction. Thanks to this arrangement, the tiles are laid on the sheathing slats and secured with the grooves of the adjacent elements.

The resulting lock has a small gap - backlash, which allows it to move a few millimeters. This movement helps to better accommodate the contraction and expansion of the roof structure due to seasonal changes in weather conditions.

When laying tiles, every third element is secured - if the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then each tile is secured.

How to properly attach tiles

The first thing to do is to fix the gable tiles using nails, wire or staples, and also securely fasten the elements around chimneys, skylights, bay windows and skylights. In all subsequent rows The tiles are fixed in a checkerboard pattern.

Ridge tiles are placed along the ridge, with a sealing and ventilation tape laid underneath - it allows condensation to drain outside and prevents snow or rainwater from getting under the covering.

Ceramic tile fastening diagram

Previously, ridge tiles were laid on the mortar, thereby providing rigid fastening and protection from external atmospheric influences, but now they are mounted using special metal brackets.

Manufacturers provide a guarantee for ceramic tiles for a period of 15 to 50 years. It is worth noting that warranty service does not apply to damaged tiles. mechanically or in the case where the design part of the roof structure, as well as installation and laying of tiles performed without following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Coating care

A tiled roof does not require careful and constant maintenance, as it is a very durable and strong material, but even it is susceptible to the destructive effects of the environment.

In areas of high air pollution, especially near industrial enterprises, a black coating forms on the tiles, which destroys upper layer, therefore, for this area it is more advisable to choose tiles with an engobe or glazed coating.

Over time, the tiles darken naturally, becoming covered with a noble patina, but the engobes and glazes hardly change their natural shade.

Green plaque - overgrowth with moss, forms in shading areas, most often on the north side, due to insufficiency solar lighting or lack of proper drainage of rainwater from the roof slope. This type of contamination can be removed using special preparations or a stiff brush.

Conclusion

Important! It is always necessary to have a supply of tiles after completing installation work– this will allow you to replace damaged elements and eliminate the possibility of changing the shape or color of the model with an additional purchase.

As you can see, laying natural tiles is a rather labor-intensive and lengthy process. To cover the roof yourself, you will need at least 2-3 people with certain construction skills and the ability to work with tools.

Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even a large number of The roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has its strengths and weak sides, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.

Piece roofing tiles are considered the most prestigious and complex; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with additives of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Coating options for metal and flexible tiles They are found most often in bathhouse coverings, so we’ll focus on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the brief characteristics of the coating.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tiles

Advantages

Low cost, quick installation, wide choose color solutions and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.

Flaws

Makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are excellent for baths roof covering.

Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roofing carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult method of installing metal tiles - with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you may be able to simplify the installation process and skip some steps.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check for correct construction and dimensions rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.

How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values ​​should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.

Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase its performance. fire safety. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause premature damage. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.

This device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.

Step 4.

Nail along the eaves wind boards, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roofing.

The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal roof performance and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.

Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, mark this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The entire part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, and the top part is sealed last.

In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.

The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. By time full installation one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which you can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.

The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.

Important. The bottom of the eaves strip should fall slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.

Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.

Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.

Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time, you can use wooden joists, installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.

If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, last page will also have such a bias. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.

At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.

They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.

Step 10 Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.

If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof it is necessary to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe

Step, No.	Description	illustration
Step 1	Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips
Step 3	Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size
Step 4	Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.

The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.

Prices for snow guards

snow guards

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; this coating universal use, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.

In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, the price range among different brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but based on the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All manufacturers' advertising brochures attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly evaluate your financial opportunities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid; most often, sheets of plywood or OSB are used; sometimes there is a more expensive option made from thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
Distance between sheathing rafters, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. The most profitable is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step lathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Flexible roofing structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.

The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing

Baths, as a rule, are small in size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.

You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are easily crushed at the edges. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Secure the drainage system hooks.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the “Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles." And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves overhangs. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not stick well, use a special liquid bitumen mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the underlay carpet with nails with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, pitch 25÷30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.

One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the lining carpet, you need to beat off parallel lines with a rope with blue horizontal lines, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it in difficult areas of the roof and correct incorrect dimensions of the slope.

Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9 Setting up the starting line.

This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.

Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle has reverse side The protective film is removed, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.

Pass-through element - fixation

Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or the tile laying work is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tile, the line should be heated with a hair dryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.

At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Prices for flexible tiles

flexible tiles

Video - Installation of flexible tiles

Despite the huge number of modern roofing materials that can very well imitate the natural appearance of tile coverings, many homeowners prefer ceramics. The fairly high cost of ceramic tiles does not allow the widespread use of this material in roofing devices. In addition, professional installation of ceramic roofing is classified as expensive.

Features of the rafter system

The rafter system for a roof made of ceramic tiles has specific features due to the weight of the roofing material. Natural tiles are ten times heavier, and the load per square meter of roofing is about fifty kilograms.

For rafter frame You should choose dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 15%. The rafters are made of timber with a section of 50x150 mm or 60x180 mm. The pitch range should be 80 – 130 cm and depends on the roof slope. The greater the roof slope, the more rafter step.

On a roof with a slope of 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 cm, and with a slope of 75 degrees, the rafter pitch is 130 centimeters. In addition, the length must be taken into account rafter legs. The longer the rafters, the less distance is maintained between them.

Material calculation

Any one must withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.m, regardless of the weight of the roofing material itself. To obtain correct calculations, it is necessary to add the weight of the ceramic tiles to this indicator. Thus, the roof frame is created taking into account the roof load of 250 kg/sq.m.

Installation of natural tiles is carried out by overlapping, the size of which is influenced by the roof slope. If there are slopes of less than 25 degrees, installation is carried out with an overlap of 10 cm, with a slope of 25-35 degrees - 7.5 cm, and with a slope of more than 45 degrees - 4.5 centimeters.

To obtain the useful length of the material, it is necessary to subtract from the total length of the ceramic element the segment necessary to form the overlap. Data on the usable width are indicated by the manufacturer in the attached instructions. Based on these two values, the roofing material per square meter of coverage is calculated. The result obtained is rounded up.

In addition, you can determine the number of tile elements along the length of the slope, based on the useful length of the tiles. The resulting indicator is the number of tile rows. Then you need to calculate the number of elements in one row, and multiply the result by the number of rows.

With a roof slope of 22 degrees, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer made of roll material. The overlap of the canvases should be ten centimeters. To calculate the waterproofing material, it is necessary to multiply the area of ​​the slopes by 1.4.

The most accurate calculation of the materials required for roofing work can be made using special computer programs or using online calculators.

Installation instructions

Marking and installation of sheathing

The sheathing for natural tiles is made from beams with a section of 50x50mm or 40x60mm. Along the eaves areas it is necessary to lay lumber with a width two centimeters greater than this figure for ordinary elements. Horizontal bars the battens are laid in an amount that corresponds to the number of tile rows with the addition of an additional cornice row.

Marking the location for laying the sheathing beams is done using a coated cord and templates that match in size to the useful height of one tile. The joining of horizontal slats is carried out on the rafters.

To calculate the pitch of the sheathing, subtract the length of the lower step from the total pitched length, as well as the distance from the bottom of the last sheathing beam. The result obtained is divided by the approximate pitch of the sheathing.

The simplest method for calculating the frame is to take into account standard length 40 cm with an overlap of 5.5-9 centimeters. Based on standard data, the sheathing pitch is the length of the tile, from which the amount of overlap is subtracted. As a rule, the optimal step size is no less than 31 and no more than 34 centimeters.

Laying and fastening of natural tiles

Laying tiles begins with evenly distributing stacks of roofing elements across roof surface. This principle does not load the rafter system with excess weight.

First, the top row of natural tiles is laid out. It is located along the ridge. Then

The bottom row of roofing material is installed, which should be laid along the overhang. It is necessary to attach the tile tiles to the sheathing frame after checking the correctness of the installation.

After fixing the cornice row, further installation of the tile covering is carried out in the directions from bottom to top and from right to left. To fasten the material, hardware is used, regulated by the manufacturer’s instructions. roofing tiles. Then the elements of the ridge and gable sections are laid.

The ridge part is equipped with an edged board, which touches the ridge elements only at the fastening points. The intersections of the pediment and the roof ridge are equipped by adjusting and trimming the tile elements. It is recommended to use a grinder for cutting.

A pitched roof requires a tight fit of the roof covering to the chimney and the installation of steps for safe access to the pipes. For steps, it is necessary to install two reinforcing slats to the rafter legs. Tiles that have steps must be devoid of a lock, which allows correct landing steps.

An important role is given to the competent and tight installation of chimney connections using self-adhesive material based on lead or aluminum. All roll joints are fixed using a clamping strip. The seam in the upper part of the strip is treated with colorless sealant. When arranging the ridge, the parameters of the edge tiles are taken into account, which are aligned by cutting the material along the rib bevel.

On roofs with complex configurations, it is necessary to equip valleys. Before laying the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to secure the continuous sheathing. The bottom of the valley is equipped with edged boards, on top of which an appropriate layer will be laid.

Improving waterproofing is achieved by gluing double-sided self-adhesive tape to the valley. For fastening, special steel clamps are used, which are mounted in drilled holes. The edge is painted with special pigments.

Ventilation arrangement

Normal operation of a roof made of natural tiles is impossible without ensuring high quality. carried out in accordance with the rules and device air gaps. One gap is located between the thermal insulation layer and the waterproofing. The second gap is mounted from waterproofing membrane to the roofing.

For a valley whose length exceeds six meters, a row of ventilation tiles is laid. For this purpose, tiles of the appropriate category are used.

You can learn more about installation by watching the video.

Cost of installation work

Laying tiled roofs using natural ceramic tiles costs the consumer an average of 700 rubles per sq. m. meter. This price includes the price of installing absolutely all standard roofing units. All non-standard roofing options are assessed according to complexity and volume.

Let's sum it up

A distinctive feature of ceramic tiles is the complexity of installation work, and it is for this reason that it is recommended to use the services of experienced roofers.

To fasten natural tiles, galvanized hardware or special clamps are used. The mandatory fixation points for tiles are:

• places subject to significant wind loads;
• a row located along the cornice;
• sections of gables and along the ridge element.

Fastening of ceramics on slopes with a roof slope of more than 50 degrees is carried out strictly through the element.

Every day, environmentally friendly, strong and durable ceramic tiles are becoming more and more popular in Russia and other CIS countries. Until recently, such roofing was in demand only in Europe, and in our country there were often either metal or bitumen shingles, rather ineptly imitating the real thing. What changed? Import to the market of foreign natural tiles, with improved geometry and stunning design!

A house with such a coating looks so advantageous against the background of surrounding buildings that today there are a lot of people who want to study the installation of ceramic tiles and make the roof of their new family nest real armor. And now we will reveal to you all the technical secrets!

Depending on which tiles you choose for your roof, the complexity of its installation will depend. We have prepared detailed master classes for you on how to work with each type, what additional tools are needed and what you will encounter in the process.

Here's how different the installation of the five most popular types of ceramic tiles is:

Interlocking groove tiles: laying on tenons

Today, tiles with a lock are actively produced. In their upper part there is a moving zone, or displacement zone. Thanks to it, rows of tiles can be moved along the slope, and the tightness of the roof is not compromised at all. This is very convenient if ceramic tiles are transferred to a new roof, which has a completely different sheathing pitch - the covering can be easily adjusted.

The groove tiles have special spikes on the back side, and they are used to hook it to the sheathing during installation. In practice, everything is quite simple!

Here's how to properly install interlocking shingles:

Flat tiles: beaver tiles of various shapes

Another beautiful and popular type of tile is beaver tail, or beaver. According to the configuration of the lower edge, I make it semicircular, rectangular and triangular. It does not have locks, only a profiled spike on the bottom of the tile, which is attached to the batten.

Due to the absence of locks, such tiles are ideal for roofs with complex shapes, even with bull's-eye hatches. Moreover, the beaver is small, and much more material will be spent here per 1m2. Additionally, flat tiles are secured with self-tapping screws or nails; for this purpose, two holes are initially provided in them.

By the way, this tile of all ceramic types roofing is most suitable for cone-shaped and unusually shaped roofs. Moreover, there is no need to sacrifice the design idea, hiding the rounded edges somewhere for the sake of simplifying installation. In fact, the more symmetrical such a substructure is, the more stylish the final result will be.

Your main task is to ensure that the height of the rafters is the same. To do this, such part of the area must be supported by special supports. You will also need high-quality under-roof insulation with an increased level of protection. Don’t skimp on the sheathing either, and the larger the pitch of the rafters, the more frequent it should be, and nowhere should the distance exceed 30 cm.

Use a tile cutting machine to trim the slabs at the top and bottom where necessary. When laying, the side overlap should be 3.5 cm, and one large tile should overlap three small ones, and so the turret is laid to the very top. Moreover, it is important that the rows are independent of each other.

In fact, most of the tiles you will have are of normal width, but there will also be some that are adjusted to balance all the rows:

S-shaped tiles: special hooks

Let's move on to the most textured tiles - S-shaped, the cross section of which resembles the letter “S”. On the back side you will find hooks that hook the tiles to the sheathing slats. Thanks to them, the tiles are movable, the rows can be moved and moved apart at intervals of 2 to 4 cm. By the way, do not confuse such tiles with grooved lock tiles, which also resemble an S-shape, but have profiled locks.

One of the most beautiful and popular S-shaped tiles is Mediterranean:

A traditional S-shaped tile, a true classic is the munch-nunn, or “monk-nun.” It consists of two parts, the upper one is called the “monk”, and the lower one is called the “nun”.

Such tiles must be secured using special clamps (clasps) or strong wire.

The roof will turn out to be quite heavy, but self-ventilated; when insulating the roof, there will be no need to leave a special gap. True, laying such tiles is not easy; skill is required, and therefore modern manufacturers produce grooved tiles that effectively imitate Munch-nunn, are easy to install, and at the same time retain an antique flavor.

Procedure for laying ceramic tiles

Now let's study the technology of laying ceramic tiles on roof slopes. There are many points here!

Step 1: Roof Design

When purchasing ceramic tiles, find out what additional elements you will need: ridge and ridge tiles, ventilation strips and much more. It’s good if you have a detailed design of such a roof on your hands.

Step 2. Calculation of the required number of tiles

We advise you to accurately calculate it before purchasing the selected tiles. required amount. The fact is that even on one working day at the plant, batches of roofing ceramics with quite noticeably different shades are born. Literally 1-2 degrees more - and the color is more saturated, a little less glaze - a different iridescence. Therefore, if it suddenly turns out that there are not enough tiles, finding exactly the same color will be difficult, and sometimes impossible.

This distinguishes ceramics from cement-sand tiles, which are painted according to one catalog, and which can even be specially produced to order. Therefore, take it with a reserve - whole copies will be needed in the future, when you need to repair the roof.

You need to calculate the tiles as follows: usually it is 9-12 pieces for each square meter of roofing (check with your chosen manufacturer for more details). Divide your roof equally geometric figures, and calculate the area of ​​each. Now count the number of tiles for each. Then sum and multiply by a factor of 0.1.

Just don’t confuse the sequence: first the number of tiles for each slope, then their sum. After all, there is a fairly common mistake when simply summing up the areas of figures and then selecting the quantity. So you will have a shortage! After all, do not forget that on the ridges you will need to trim the tiles, and it is not a fact that the fragments will be needed somewhere else.

Step 3. Installation of the rafter system

So, as bars for the rafter system for ceramic tiles, take those with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm. Maintain the pitch of the rafter legs at 60-90 cm, calculating it using special roof load tables. Yours the main task– maintain the bending strength of the entire rafter system, and therefore take into account the total weight of the tiles themselves, snow and wind exposure and random factors, like a person moving on the roof.

Now it is important to correctly place the ridge rail. To do this, mark the desired place on the counter beam in advance, so that before the start of this rail there is from 35 to 45 mm from the top point, depending on the angle of the roof slope. And if your slope does not exceed 6 meters in length, then lay a counter beam 24 mm thick, and if the slope is from 6 to 12 meters - 28 mm thick. If your roof has slopes more than 12 meters long, then you need timber 40 mm thick, and don’t skimp on it.

Be especially careful with the top bars of the sheathing. They should not be too close to the ridge, otherwise the air outlet from the under-roof space will be blocked. Here is the correct roof structure:

The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable membrane, quite dense, with a horizontal overlap of 150 mm. Attach a counter beam to it, which should eventually connect at the ridge part. To successfully determine the distance between the counter-battens, lay out a double row of 12 tiles on the ground in advance, with the top side offset vertically.

Make sure all front folds interlock. Now you need to sum up the dimensions for placement and offset between the first and last tiles, and divide by 20. Typically, the average pitch of the slats is 36 cm + - 3 cm.

Now pull the cord in a straight line to create a level for the next slats. There is also a popular “dog” device for this purpose, with which the first counterbeam is traced from the overhang, and all other slats are laid at the same distance. Moreover, you can arrange the overhang itself in the following three options:

1. A grooved overhang is suitable for small slope angles. Here special slots are made in the rafters and a cornice strip is installed in them. Then the counterbeam for the overhang is stuffed and the overhang crest is installed 60 mm high.
2. A hinged beam on wedges is necessary if the length of the rafter leg has been increased. Then an additional extension in the form of fillies is attached to the lower parts of the rafters, and wedges are placed on top of them, and the hanging beam is already attached to the wedges. Gutter holders are mounted on all this, and on top - a cornice strip and a waterproofing under-roof film. The lower part of the film is glued to the self-adhesive strip of the apron.
3. An overhang using a metal perforated ridge is needed when the rafter leg is longer than 12 meters. Then a cornice strip is attached to the beam, on top of which a waterproofing film is laid with release. Then a comb is mounted on a weight made of a metal profile with perforations for ventilation. Take a corner with a perforation area of ​​62%.

If everything is ready, you can move on to the next step. See what this kind of sheathing looks like in practice, with a profiled metal overhang:

Step 4. Laying and fixing the tiles

Let's move on to laying the tiles themselves. Check the width of the roof for symmetry, and begin installing the tiles from right to left from the end of the slope. Most often, such tiles are fastened with nails through pre-drilled holes, with clamps, locks, and even polyurethane foam (Western practice).

If you are at a loss as to exactly what to do, follow the manufacturer’s instructions (usually this is written about and even illustrated). Even more: if you violate these instructions, the roofing warranty will not apply.

Typically, ceramic tiles are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, in a checkerboard pattern, and even each, if the project so provides - it all depends on the slope of the roof. Often, the manufacturer makes special non-through holes on the tiles for this purpose that do not allow water to pass through.

If you need to make them through, then drill them and fix them with self-zero. Keep in mind that such installation is labor-intensive, and the drills quickly become dull. Fortunately, today there are many models of tiles in which technological holes can be easily punched with the screw itself, and there is no need to drill them.

And every third tile must be secured with an anti-wind clip. Today, the clamps themselves are produced against wind and special ones to secure the tiles in the area of ​​the ridge and valley. Be sure to install such clamps on the end slopes. For this purpose, a bundle of clamps is taken with you to the roof and used during the installation process:

Let us dwell separately on anti-wind clasps (clasps). For millennia, humanity has been improving the technology of ceramic tiled roof to achieve its reliability and high performance. Although, it would seem, what else can you come up with? After all we're talking about about a hard shard!

How exactly to lay it differently, or secure it differently? In fact, there are ways. For example, manufacturers have come up with special anti-wind clips so that ceramic roofing not only withstands all the elements of nature, but also literally remains intact even during serious hurricanes.

Here are the standard clamps for fixing flat and cut tiles:

Moreover, you can easily cope with such additional fasteners yourself. Here is an example when the clasp is simply bent by hand:

And to work with such a clamp you will need a hammer:

Remember also that you still need to think about where exactly you will place the ventilation shingles. So, if your roof is up to 4.5 meters long, you don’t need these (or at your request), if it’s longer, then:

• for a roof up to 12 meters long - one row of ventilation tiles among three rows from the ridge;
• on roofs from 12 meters at the height of the second tile from the ridge, the first row is ventilation.

Ventilation tiles are significantly different from ordinary ones, so you won’t confuse them.

Step 5. Installation of the ridge and ridges

We move on to the ridge and ridges. In these places, universal holders (usually supplied from the manufacturer) must be installed on the counterbeam and secured using self-tapping screws. Such holders are usually adjustable in height, and the height itself depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and ranges from 9 to 11 cm.

At this stage, consider the ventilation of the ridge space. For this purpose, sealing tape with holes is now available; ridge strips are also suitable. ventilation grates. Secure the ridge tiles with a special bracket, which is also included in the kit.

When working with the chimney, use a special corrugated self-adhesive material. You will have to cut some of the tiles to lay them in front of the chimney. In this case, be sure to process the edges that will meet the metal strips, wall or roofing films. In the place where the insulation will be adjacent to the chimney, secure the clamping strip. In its upper part you need to treat the seam with a colorless sealant.

If the length of the wall adjacent to the roof is more than 3 meters, then deepen the bottom strip to the sheathing 15 mm downwards, in depth. This way you will increase the depth of the side wall, and then it will be easy for you to achieve the desired density of the cladding. Secure the lower junction strip to the sheathing using clamps. If you are not comfortable working with regular tiles here, use half tiles - this type is also available. And close it with two-wave.

Working with a ridge is almost no different from working with a ridge. Here the last tile needs to be trimmed and try to fit as perfectly as possible to the rib. And here, too, ventilation is needed, so ventilation tiles are installed on the ridge.

All spine shingles must be cut in a straight line that is parallel to the spine. Moreover, do not cut the tiles on the roof, because sawdust will fly off, and these can damage the surface of the tiles. A grinder with a diamond cutting disc will help you with this. After this, secure the rail to the ridge and lay the ventilation tape:

When the tile is ready, lay it on the ridge, and close the junction of the lines with a tee - this is another type of ceramic tile, which is called hip tile.

Step 6. Laying tiles in the valley

It is also important to take care of the valley. Even before laying the waterproofing, the internal joint of the roof needs to be strengthened edged boards. When laying, its width must be at least 35 cm from the center of the valley.

Secure the bars with self-tapping screws with rubber sealing to avoid leaks. To secure the valley gutter, the sheathing should be cut to 15 mm in depth. The width of the valley itself depends on the length of the internal roof joint. Also be aware of these points:

• For a slope up to 4 m in length, 25 cm on one side is sufficient. When unfolded, such a valley will be 55 cm wide, with a 5 cm wide gap on each side.
• When the valley is up to 8 m long, the width must be increased to 67 cm.

In the valley area, you need to cut the tiles to the required size. Also, such tiles need to be drilled and secured with a special clamp made of acid-resistant steel. Here is a good video tutorial on how to arrange such a valley correctly and avoid annoying mistakes:

Also, if the valley exceeds 6 meters in length, ventilation tiles will be needed.

Step 7. Installation of a dormer window

Often ceramic tiles are laid on stylish house With additional elements, like dormer windows, especially lucarnes. In this place, as well as around the chimney, you need to strengthen the counter-lattice. In the upper part of the arc it is placed at a minimum distance of 363 mm, and if the slope is straight, then the counter beam must be moved apart maximum distance 369 mm.

Installation of ceramic tiles on dormer window It’s quite complicated, but you can figure it out if you want. To do this, find the extreme points at an angle of 90°, and transfer them along the roof slope to the uppermost counter beam of the roof. In each prepared tile you need to make two drilled holes to secure with self-tapping screws.

If the dormer window is located at the edge of the overhang, which is slightly raised, then drain pipes must be installed.

To lay ceramic tiles on the lucarne, use the so-called roofing wedge - special set of 17 elements, which are laid in 10 rows. It's so easy to create a cone-shaped surface.

Believe me, when the roof of your house is ready, you will feel an incomparable sense of satisfaction. After all, now the roof will serve you for at least half a century, and it was you who completed the construction of your house, laid every tile with your own hands, and this is what makes the house – a Home.

Installation of tiles on a circular sheathing

No other roofing covering can compare with the look of ceramic tiles on a circular sheathing. Often it is purchased precisely in order to complete some beautiful architectural object. Moreover, installation on such rafters is actually not difficult.

Installation begins from the bottom up, as in working with ordinary tiles. Each subsequent one is laid with an overlap on the underlying and side ones. Only here, each successive tile decreases in width from row to row, and each row already consists of fewer and fewer elements. In the end, everyone agrees on one thing top point roofs:

And believe me, the magnificent view of such a roof is worth any effort!

Cement-sand tiles have a lot of weight, so at the design stage it is necessary to lay increased foundation strength, load-bearing walls and rafter system. Laying tiles is possible on any type of roof; the recommended slope angle is 22 – 60°.

Base and sheathing

The rafter system of a tiled roof must be durable. The distance is determined project documentation, depends on the design load and the length of the rafters, taking into account the climatic region of the building's location, snow and wind loads, and the total weight of the roofing.

The greater the distance between the rafters, the thicker the sheathing beam will be needed. The recommended rafter cross-section is at least 50*150 mm.

Before installing the sheathing, the plane of the rafters is leveled: fluctuations in surface unevenness should be within the range of -5 to +5 mm per 2 m.

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Laying waterproofing

A waterproofing membrane or film is laid on top of the rafters parallel to the eaves overhang with the front side (with the logo) facing up. The rolls begin to roll out from the bottom and move up without pulling tightly, leaving the membrane between the rafters to sag by 1–2 cm.

The size of the overlap of one roll on another is usually indicated by dotted lines on the film and is 10 cm. If the slope is steep, then the overlap is increased to 15–20 cm and the membrane is glued with double-sided tape.

Are fixed waterproofing materials on the rafters with a stapler, and then with counter-lattice bars.

It is unacceptable to make cuts or tears in the film; folds are also undesirable. If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 16°, then a solid base is made under the central tile, on which.

Installation of counter-lattice

A counter-lattice is mounted on top of the film on the rafters - bars 30 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. They are nailed one after the other not closely, a distance of 5–10 cm is left between them for free air circulation and ventilation.

At the ridge, the ends of the counter-lattice bars from the two slopes are cut off and tightly joined.

Installation of sheathing

For the sheathing, bars 3–5 cm thick are used. The location of the first bar from the eaves depends on how much the tiles will hang over the drainage system.

The sheathing pitch can be from 31 to 35 cm, the exact value is indicated in the accompanying documentation by the manufacturer and depends on the angle of inclination of the slope.

Installation of drip

The cornice is the most visible place of the roof, important from a functional and decorative point of view:

• drainage is done here;
• the entrance of the ventilation hole for air intake into the under-roof space.

The metal drip is mounted on the eaves board, its total length is equal to the length of the slope plus 0.3 m on each side. The overlap of the waterproofing membrane onto the cornice is made at least 15 cm, it is left on top of the drip strip. An open ventilation gap is provided under the eaves board.

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Installation of ordinary tiles

To distribute the load of cement-sand tiles on the roof during the work process, they are first laid out in 5-6 pieces, evenly placing the stacks along the slope.

Laying tiles in rows along the roof is done from bottom to top from right to left. The first and final rows of tiles are first laid out without fastening, and markings are made from them using a dye cord. Fastening is carried out using galvanized self-tapping screws into special holes, without tightening the fasteners until they stop.

Fastening with self-tapping screws to the sheathing is carried out only for those elements of the tiles that are located in the outer rows along the perimeter, as well as trimmed parts near the valleys. If the slope of the slope is steep (over 60°), then all the tiles are secured with self-tapping screws, regardless of their location.

Arrangement of the valley

Waterproofing at the junction of the slopes is done more carefully: first, a roll is rolled out along the gutter from top to bottom, then the film rolls are overlapped from one slope to another.

In addition to the main lathing, two more types of it are packed on top of the film:

• diagonal sheathing - along the valley gutter;
• rapid - parallel to the main one.

Aluminum valley elements are installed along the gutter from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm and attached to wooden blocks using staples. Foam rubber seals are installed along the valley elements.

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Ridge formation

The ridge elements of cement-sand tiles are installed after completion of all other types of work.

Special holders are mounted on top of the connection of the slopes, and in them there is a ridge block, which is covered with insulating sealing tape with ventilation holes. Then the ridge tiles are sequentially “fitted” onto the beam.

The individual ridge elements cling to one another using special clamps, which are attached to the beam with self-tapping screws. The end caps are fixed with stainless steel self-tapping screws.

Compliance with the installation technology of cement-sand tiles will ensure the durability of the roof and save it from leaks.