Frame extension to the house: we build it ourselves. How to insulate the floor on a veranda Floors in an extension to a house

When, for various reasons, there is a need to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages with photographs will help you make a useful and beautiful extension like in the video, which will last for many years.

Purpose of the extension

To ensure that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, the design nuances should be considered even at the planning stage. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

Additional room. Building an additional room is equivalent to building a small house. All structures of a new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to large heat loss. You should not skimp on waterproofing and insulating the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before you start building the foundation. Places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do during the construction phase.
A veranda is a lightweight extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: the flooring, walls and roof are on supports. Do not forget about harmony; the veranda must be combined with the house in scale, style and materials of construction.

Selecting the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, when shrinking monolithic base will collapse due to the different weight of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation built on soil prone to heaving will “lead” and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of the brickwork.

For construction they use different materials: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

tape;
slab;
columnar;
pile;
pile-grillage.

In private construction, when constructing a base for a veranda, columnar or strip structure. Let's take a closer look step by step instructions arrangement of foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings choose belt type grounds. It is advisable to make it from concrete in this sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use rolled materials or mastic.

Columnar foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect columnar base, which is built from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or combine these materials. The holes for the pillars are dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. The step between the pillars is about 60 cm. Sequence of work:

dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted thoroughly;
lay a layer of concrete mortar, and after complete setting, begin the construction of brick supports. Use a level to ensure that the masonry is strictly vertical;
a concrete support is made in the same way as a strip foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

after completely dry the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the post, and the top is covered with several layers of roofing material - the material will protect wooden beam floors from getting wet;
the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is filled in, compacted every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finished floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is installed on a strip foundation. The base on pillars is obviously designed for arranging a wooden floor. Let's look at both technologies.

Construction of frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, attached to previously assembled crown beams. The wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall panel is mounted in a vertical position or each beam is connected to a beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:

On the lower beams of the harness, make a cut for vertical posts every 50 cm.
Mount the racks, securing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
Assemble the top harness.

The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical beam to the wall.
Secure all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
It is better to immediately sheathe the finished “skeleton” of the veranda with outside plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
After constructing and insulating the roof, install windows and doors.

Ceiling and roofing

The shed type of roofing can be combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.

Insulation of walls and floors

Used as insulation material for walls mineral wool. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other to prevent heat loss through the joining seams. The insulation is covered on both sides with steam and wind insulating material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and the top is sheathed finishing material. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, plasterboard and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For outer wall use wood, siding or materials that match the finish of the home.

Wall pie towards external wall looks like that:

internal lining;
vapor barrier;
insulation material;

windproofing;
external cladding.

Floor on wooden joists insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the joists, having previously covered the boards waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and then leveled with plywood. After this, they install the finishing flooring.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, using a dry screed, making a concrete screed and installing water or electric heating.

Do-it-yourselfers often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use the funds personal protection and well-oiled reliable tool and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

Frame extension on stilts: video

Frame extension to the house: photo

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, installation of a sewer system in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for extra room, expanding the kitchen, installing a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

DIY house extension

A do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or combined version, which includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means. Reliable waterproofing is needed.

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, they bring engineering Communication- in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install the water supply separately.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, think about reliable waterproofing floor.

A veranda is a lightweight structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer recreation. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows. or it can be completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope. which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Trench for strip foundation

Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
The width of the trench should be 100 - 150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled sand cushion 100 - 120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a hand tamper.
Next, waterproofing is laid in the trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40 - 50 cm, since it should cover not only the inside of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is filled with rough concrete mortar made of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

After filling this layer, you can work on the device wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. Waterproofing film left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

The process of pouring a strip foundation

Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprinkled with water daily to strengthen it.
After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

Strip foundation requires waterproofing

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

- construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

The extension will be built on columnar foundation

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

Approximate diagram of a columnar foundation

Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500 - 600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone. lay waterproofing.
If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they are waterproofed with roofing felt, which is glued to heated bitumen mastic.
Make a gap in the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars backfill, compacting every 100 - 150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm screed floor inside a strip foundation, work must be carried out in stages, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250 - 350 mm.
A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15 - 20 cm.

Preparing to pour a concrete floor

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is installed on top according to the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for the unhindered flow of water falling on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day it can be covered plastic film- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or wooden floor.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden blocks enough large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Load-bearing floor beams on a columnar foundation

The beams are laid on pillars or a strip foundation, on top of a made roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- using through fasteners, corners and others metal fixtures. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

The beams are laid on a roofing felt substrate

They will hold securely. because wood flooring The “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

One of the options frame extension

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

Compound wooden parts frame

For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

Installation of wall frame

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

It is better to immediately sheathe the outside of the frame with boards or plywood

The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

: another example of building a light extension to a house

Brick walls

How to make brick walls for an extension?

Brick extension

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Brick wall laying

Before starting laying, string is stretched along the future wall. by which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this happens living room, then you should lay at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then a half-brick masonry will be sufficient.
Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose another type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After erecting the walls, it is necessary to do ceiling. It will require beams. which are installed on the top of the walls, at a distance of 60 - 70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having first wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.

Ceiling beams

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

Construction information gable roof do it yourself for an extension - link.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but mostly selected single slope option, which is worth considering.

Approximate diagram of the roof of the extension

This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple. the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It should be no less than 25 - 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation in winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 - 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. That's why. You may have to remove several bottom rows (sheets) roofing material from the roof of the house to use its beams for securing rafter system and consolidation of common coverage.
You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing, is laid on top of the rafters and secured.
If large canvases are fixed ( roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Above waterproofing material roofing is being laid. starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
If the roof is adjacent top part roof to the wall or front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated. then you can move on to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

How to insulate the floor of an extension built on beams?

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

They are fixed to the floor beams cross beams from smaller bars.
It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

Subfloor before insulation

Next is everything rough coating it is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists and expanded clay or slag is poured.

Laying insulation between floor joists

On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool laid between the fixed on concrete base lag and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film. laid on a thin thermally reflective substrate and covered with a decorative coating;
Dry screed and gypsum fiber boards.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

After the floor is ready, a floor screed will be required. We recommend that you read the information on dry floor screed.

Frame walls

For internal insulation The walls use mineral wool produced in mats. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. securing it to the bars with staples.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Insulation of frame walls

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in frame construction, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

How to insulate brick walls?

In addition, familiarize yourself with the material - sawdust as insulation.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you don’t have confidence in your capabilities, or you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.

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To protect against dampness extension flooring it is necessary to arrange reliable waterproofing of floors, which protects the overlying layers from penetration groundwater. Preparation is carried out depending on the type of soil, if necessary, excavating it to the required depth. For example, wet soils have a soft base, so concrete preparation soft base arranged on a bedding layer of sand 200÷300mm thick and crushed stone at least 40mm thick. For device floors in the extension in residential buildings, crushed stone is pressed into the ground with a tamper or roller until a roller weighing approximately 70 kg leaves traces of passage on the ground. It is a good idea to saturate the crushed stone bed with a uniform, continuous layer of hot bitumen primer about 6mm thick, on top of which you can lay a carpet of roll or film waterproofing materials.
Using compacted crushed stone preparation, an underlying layer of M-300 concrete is made. And in this case, it is advisable to introduce special hydrophobic additives into the concrete composition to ensure increased water resistance of the floors. The thickness of the concrete layer is taken depending on the planned loads on the floors. If in the annex to residential building no production equipment will be installed; floors can be approximately 100mm thick. Laying concrete mixture must be carried out continuously: the break between the completion of compaction of one layer and the laying of the next layer should not exceed 1 hour. Special attention should be given to compacting the concrete at the junction of the bottoms and walls, as well as at the fittings and embedded parts available, if necessary. By concrete preparation penetrating waterproofing can be done.
Then the floors are covered with heated bitumen with a layer thickness of at least 2 mm. After this, a coating of waterproofing or other similar material is spread in strips over the unhardened primer layer, connecting the strips with an overlap of 100÷200 mm and coating the seam with bitumen. If the groundwater level is high, then it is advisable to then apply a second layer of bitumen mastic with a thickness of at least 5 mm to the floor, leveling it using a rack.
On top of the hardened bitumen waterproofing, without violating its integrity, arrange a thermal insulation layer. The materials specified in the question can also be used as insulation, the layer thickness of which depends on the required conditions.
On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet on the walls at the factory and make a protective reinforced cement-sand floor screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the reinforcement must have a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. Without allowing complete drying cement-sand screed, it is necessary to “ironize” it - grouting the top layer of the floor with dry cement.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate what kind of floor covering is planned in the future - you are not going to walk barefoot on concrete floors. Therefore, if you are going to lay laminate, parquet or some other material, then to prevent moisture from the concrete base from penetrating into the floor covering, you must first lay film waterproofing.
Foundation for non-load bearing internal partitions in a residential building, it can be made as a shallow-depth strip type, which is a concrete or reinforced concrete strip. The tape is placed under interior walls building, maintaining the same cross-sectional shape along the entire perimeter of the foundation. To connect it to the foundation under the outer walls, you can use reinforcement pins, which are placed in holes drilled in the “old” foundation.
To construct the foundation, dig a trench 500÷700mm deep, at the bottom of which they make sand backfill 200÷300mm thick, and on top of it crushed stone layer 150÷200mm. The sand must be thoroughly compacted after wetting it. Having installed the formwork, pour concrete into the foundation strip, which should be 200÷300mm above the ground level. To increase the strength characteristics, steel reinforcement can be placed in the body of the foundation.
The width of such a foundation depends on the thickness of the partitions, as well as whether the floor beams will rest on it.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, installing a sewer system into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, creating a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

A do-it-yourself extension to a house can be made of wood, brick, or a combination that includes several building materials.