Choosing the right floorboard is no less important than the floor design. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the joists.

In general, the floorboard can be any lumber secured to joists. Most often, this name refers to a tongue and groove board. This is lumber that has three processed “finish” sides - two ends and one plane - front side. On the sides, tongues are formed using a special machine: a groove on one side, a tenon on the other. When laying, the tenon is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks that form during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue and groove floor looks good.

A tongue and groove board may have a tongue different shapes. It is most convenient to install if it has a conical shape. The cone fits in easily even with slight curvature of the boards. With a spike rectangular shape much more difficult to fight. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then you either have to struggle with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the sections. It turns out to be a completely different, unkempt look.

Floor boards also come with a quarter-shaped overhang. This is when half the width of the board is removed from one side from the bottom, and from the other from the top. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tongue-and-groove board, and the floor looks no worse.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45°. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary one is laid on the floor edged board— it has the shape of a rectangle in cross section. It is placed close together - end to end - and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about bathhouses, then when installing leaky floors, edged boards will be the best option. In other cases, you should give preference to options with any type of lock: when drying, the cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to tongue-and-groove solid wood boards, there are also glued boards. It consists of several boards glued together. The wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains virtually unchanged. If it changes, it is several times less than the massive one. But due to the labor-intensive production of such material, its prices are high. But a laminated board floor is almost guaranteed to be level.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a decking board. It differs in that its front part is not smooth, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that flat surface It is very difficult to bring to an ideal state. But when building a bathhouse, it can be useful if you build a swimming pool or plunge pool on the porch. By laying a decking board around the pool, you don’t have to worry about someone slipping.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any type of lumber is in the “euro” category. There is a Euro floor board, tongue and groove or not, and there is a terrace board. The whole difference is the presence on the back side of a longitudinally located groove, which helps better ventilation. There should also be a difference in the quality of the wood: without knots. But best quality not always available, but higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material and geometry.

Wood species for flooring

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and financial capabilities. The purpose of the room can also play a role.

For baths, coniferous boards are traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are quite good. Contained in conifers a large number of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which extends their service life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is that they are soft species and, if there are a lot of people steaming, they wear out quickly. But if the bathhouse is a family bathhouse, visited occasionally, then such wood will last a long time.

Speaking specifically about premises, larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to place pine and spruce in the locker room or rest room. They will not tolerate the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

Place wood on the floor and hardwood, but it is more susceptible to rotting, and even more often darkens from water. There are some other nuances that can only be determined by experience. For example, oak wood is durable and not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: when wet it is very slippery. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip mats.

This is what a tongue-and-groove Euro board looks like in profile

When installing a double plank floor, the boards for roughing and finishing should be taken from the same wood. For a subfloor, unedged (be sure to remove the bark and treat for bugs), for a finished floor - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different amounts of expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity, the floor may move.

Floor board dimensions

Minimum thickness boards for laying on the floor are determined by the step of laying the lag. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the thicker the lumber is needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation pitch of the logs

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some reserve: taking into account the fact that it will be necessary to update periodically appearance- grind, remove upper layer. If the thickness is taken “butt-to-shoulder”, after one or two sandings the floorboards will begin to sag under your feet and creak - this is not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of “dancing” boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag pitch (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards for the bathhouse, there are also some nuances. It is better not to use wide boards: as humidity increases, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that walking becomes problematic. That’s why in a steam room or shower they use a narrow or medium-width board.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floor boards, you need to calculate how many of them you need to buy: lumber is sold by the cubic meter.

There are no strict standards in this industry, nor is there a clear distinction between varieties. Some manufacturers produce only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to navigate on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are not visible under the paint anyway. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not “dead” - black. Black bitches crumble and fall out, but we don’t need that.

There is only a more or less established standard for length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make three- and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three-meter ones will cost less than six-meter ones. So if you don’t need a long board, look for a suitable size: it will be cheaper.

Now let's talk about how to count the number of boards in a cube. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a 40*150 mm board. Convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We'll take it standard length 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards there will be in one cube (we divide one by 0.036), it turns out 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the quantity of any board or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number per cubic meter are calculated and entered into the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take at least 10-15% (or preferably 30%) with a reserve. Firstly, defects always occur, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be rebuilt - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those purchased from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either the thickness will not fit, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a number of pieces should be in stock for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the humidity. Most best option for baths - average humidity about 20-25%. If you take the board natural humidity, it will lead when drying, there will be a lot of “skis” and “propellers”. They can then only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is medium humidity.

The first thing you need to do when purchasing is to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, make sure that the edges are smooth. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter needs to be checked when purchasing any graded lumber (except unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When purchasing tongue and groove boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly configured machine, the opposite often happens. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to make a floor without cracks. You will have to either change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the tenon.

There is another mistake that is made when producing tongue and groove boards: the upper edge above the tenon (ridge) is grooved more than the lower one. With such a defect, cracks are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this defect. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked, arranged in bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then when laying them together it will be problematic.

All these shortcomings are identified quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the shortcomings are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly positioned above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they fit together easily and without gaps. If the tests were successful, you can take the tongue-and-groove floorboard: you will be able to install it quickly and easily.

How and with what to fasten

A few years ago, no discrepancies arose: the floorboard was nailed right through to the joists. Sometimes the cap was flattened and then driven deeper with a hammer - this was so that nothing could be seen. This can also be done today. And save money at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after some time in plank floor a large number of cracks appear. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added to the wall - as it turns out. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle and do not damage the wood. Try to get a nail with a flattened head without damaging the wood. No way. That’s why they are increasingly using self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and the heads of self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones, often fly off.

Tongue or groove?

For hidden fastening Self-tapping screws are not fastened through the boards, but into a tenon or groove. You can do it right through, into the surface, but then the caps will need to be buried in the board, and the holes will need to be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in bathhouses. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then even under a light varnish almost nothing will be visible.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60°. If it is in a tenon, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (it grips ¾ of the thickness), although the “in the groove” method is more common.

In any case, you will first need to drill a hole for the head with a drill of a larger diameter and a hole for the self-tapping screw with a smaller one. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Hidden fastening technology

The technology for hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better yet, tightened with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then the fastener is screwed or driven into the groove or tenon at an angle. If the wood is dense, the screws are difficult to install. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, no nails or screws are visible. But there is one drawback: only one edge of the board is pulled to the joist. When humidity changes, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, another one may rise. The result is an uneven floor, and it creaks more often. Although, it’s never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few screws into the face.

Which screws to take

What screws should I use for flooring in a bathhouse? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. It will be more secure to hold it this way. And it’s better to take unheated ones - they are stronger. For a bathhouse, galvanized ones are better - they won’t rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times longer. It seems that according to the parameters of the self-tapping screws, everything is fine. With nails everything is simpler: you need regular ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it’s almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with threads that do not start from the head itself

There is one secret inherited from our ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in a bathhouse, and they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use it. These nails were used to nail shingles onto roofs, and they did not rust for decades.

So: you need to decide on your own with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners. Eat different opinions, and all of them are based on experience - your own or your ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be rebuilt. So for the first time you should fasten it with a minimum of nails or screws - as you decide. Then, once it has dried, it will be possible to permanently fix it.

Watch the video to see how the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate cracks.

You can make a device for tightening floor boards yourself using the attached video instructions.

Choosing a floorboard is a process that should be taken seriously. When purchasing a rough or fine coating, you should take into account a number of necessary characteristics: quality, type of wood and dimensions of the board. The service life of the floor depends on how well the material is selected. After all, it bears the main mechanical load.

There are several parameters by which to choose wood covering. The dimensions of the floorboard are not chosen according to last resort. This characteristic depends on the following factors:

• place of use (residential premises, outbuildings, street, verandas);
• what kind of coating it is (rough or finishing);
• load on the planned floor layer.

The length is selected based on the parameters of the premises so that there is a minimum number of joints and waste. Fortunately, the building materials market allows this to be done. The existing size range is 2, 3, 4, 6 m.

The choice of floorboard thickness depends on the intensity of use and the distance between the joists. The higher it is, the thicker the board will be required. For example, if the distance is up to 700 mm, then it is better to choose a board thickness of 35–40 mm, above this size – 40–50 mm.

The width of the board is selected taking into account the design idea. Large canvases are more susceptible to shrinkage, which will further affect the quality flooring. Types of sizes from 85 mm to 140 mm.

The most popular board size: length – 2–3 m, width – 105 mm, thickness – 20-35 mm.

Which board is best for the floor?

Building and renovating a home is not a cheap project. That's why " Which board is best to use for the floor?» – actual question. Correct selection material will significantly save money without losing the quality of the floor:

1. For roughing, slabs and unedged blades are used. Quality, low price. An edged board should be used for the subfloor if it is planned to have a finishing coating that requires a flat base (laminate, parquet, linoleum). Coniferous draft board- the most popular type. It has sufficient strength at a low price.
2. Breeds used for baths deciduous trees such as linden and aspen. These coatings are resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, will not release resin when heated. Make a floor in a bathhouse from untreated material - big mistake(this is fraught with splinters during operation). The presence of resin will cause burns.
3. For homes and apartments, the finishing floor covering is made from different breeds trees. The choice depends on financial opportunities And stylistic decision. Coniferous fabrics are often used. But there is also a place for expensive tree species: larch, oak, cedar. It all depends on the planned design, load, and intensity of walking. The board used is processed. Best option– . This material forms a smooth, durable coating. By inside ventilation grooves must be made. This allows the flooring to “breathe” regardless of the base.
4. Larch and oak are used on the open veranda. These materials have high strength data and are also not susceptible to rotting or fungus formation. For open verandas The board goes on the floor, corrugated. This coating does not allow moisture to accumulate; it flows down the grooves. This terrace floor has a pleasant roughness. In winter, the corrugated larch surface will prevent you from slipping.

Which board is best to use for the floor depends on each specific case. But correctly selected material for one or another environment, microclimate, type of room will help save money on further remodeling work. You should pay attention to the level of drying of the planks. This will prevent gaps from forming after shrinkage.

Video: Choosing a floorboard

Having decided to use natural material under the finishing coating, you should study its properties. This will help to do right choice in favor of a certain type of wood. Which will best suit your needs specifications. The following species are used for wooden floors.

Conifers (pine, spruce, fir). Optimal price-quality ratio. The canvases contain natural resins, which are natural antiseptics. This means the floor will be less susceptible to rotting and fungus. Another important property is good vapor permeability. It allows coniferous floors to maintain normal moisture levels in the room. The floor made of pine and spruce boards releases ethereal odors into the microclimate of the room, which have a beneficial effect on health. Another representative began to appear on the building materials market coniferous– fir. This material contains a smaller amount of resins, which means it will require additional processing antiseptic means of protection.

Oak. The nobility, durability, and unique texture of this breed are difficult to dispute. But the price for such material is quite high. If we consider the service life of cheaper species and oak, then the cost becomes quite affordable. TO positive characteristics moisture resistance can be added. Oak becomes even stronger under the influence of water. It is not susceptible to rotting, the formation of fungus, mold, has a wide range of textures and low thermal conductivity. Oak also has good sound insulation.

Siberian larch. According to the main characteristics, this material is close to oak.

Has the same properties:

• durability;
• not susceptible to rotting, mold, mildew;
• maintains an optimal microclimate, releases antiseptic essential elements;
• good thermal conductors, soundproofing properties, resists direct exposure to moisture;
• high strength data.

Along with the listed advantages, this material has 12 different shades.

Alder, aspen. These types of wood do not have particular strength or durability. But when heated, tannins are released into the indoor microclimate, which have a positive effect on health. This natural floorboard is used for finishing baths and saunas. Alder has found its place in the decoration of children's bedrooms. Where there is no intensive walking, but family members stay for a long time.

Cedar, linden. The first option is very expensive. But this cost is due healing properties, unique texture, strength, resistance to moisture. Cedar contains essential oils, which have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the home and health. If the budget allows, then this flooring will please the family for a very long time. Linden is considered available material. It has healing properties, soft texture, low thermal conductivity, and has a flavoring effect. Disadvantage: susceptible to rot and fungus formation. Requires antiseptic impregnation.

What boards are needed is determined by the budget and technical specifications. You can use exotic materials, but how relevant is this because of the price?

There are four types of wood:

1. Extra class;

Extra class is mainly used for finishing coatings. The canvases have no visible defects, practically no knots, and have a uniform shade.

Class A, B have found their application as finishing coatings. The presence of knots and resin pockets is determined; there may be cracks, but not through ones.

Class C is usually used as a roughing board. The canvases have visible defects that cannot be corrected mechanically.

Laying floorboards on joists

This process can be broken down into several stages:

1. Installation of logs;
2. , insulation of the underground space;
3. Installation of the finishing coating.

Wooden coverings will require a device ventilation holes(outlet). At the first stage, it is important to determine the distance between the lags. It is better if it is 600 mm. The logs are laid across the length of the boards. It will be easier to lay the floor if the timber is laid out level.

The second stage allows you to organize additional thermal insulation and protection from moisture.

The third stage is the most important. Laying the floor begins with a gap of 10 mm from the walls. Natural floorboards have high plasticity and mobility. The first board is laid tongue-and-groove against the wall and secured with self-tapping screws with a flat head with a recess. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed. If you have to lay boards on joists in two rows along the length of the canvas, then it is recommended to make an offset. This technology will give finishing additional strength. After installation, a plinth is installed that will cover the technical holes between the boards and the wall.

Video: The process of laying floorboards with your own hands

Conclusion

The modern building materials market makes it possible to purchase any wooden floor covering. But choose the right species, type, size of panels, class of wood and make high-quality installation not everyone can do it. And the service life and quality of the floor depend on this. If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to hire professionals to do the flooring.

Video: Tips for laying floorboards

Today there are many different ways cover the floor in your home. Accordingly, the variety of floor coverings is also great. However, hardly anyone would argue that the most suitable, most natural and organic material for a house was and remains wood. Wooden boards for gender remain the generally recognized leader among different types floor coverings. IN Lately, the popularity of flooring boards is once again on the rise, even as many other options for flooring in the home have emerged.

What is a floorboard?

Batten - This profile part, made from wood, which is intended for flooring. Externally, it looks like a milled board, which is made of a massive piece of wood. This, by the way, is the main difference between a floorboard and a parquet board, since the latter is obtained by gluing several thin layers.

To ensure that the boards adhere tightly to each other, each of them has a groove (on one edge) and a ridge on the opposite.

It is obvious that the material from which the floorboards are made is exclusively natural wood. It must be wood High Quality- no flaws, knots, blackening or cracks. Thanks to the natural material, floorboards are an environmentally friendly floor covering that is not capable of causing allergies.

Most suitable material for making floorboards - this is wood oak, ash, larch and pine. Walnut, alder and aspen are used a little less frequently, since these species are not hard enough. An extremely undesirable material for making floorboards is wood from species such as poplar or linden.

Basic performance characteristics of flooring boards

Like any other type of flooring, floorboards have several distinctive characteristics. Among them are the following:

Advantages of floorboards

The floorboard has a considerable list benefits, which follow from its technical characteristics:

• The board floor is based on natural material;
• strength and reliability;
• excellent thermal insulation;
• environmental friendliness of the coating;
• antiallergic properties;
• durability of the material;
• aesthetic appearance;
• relatively low cost.

In addition, the floor is made of planks - great way decorate the interior of the house, make it as warm and homely as possible.

Disadvantages of floorboards

However, the floorboard also has its own flaws, among which:

• difficulty in maintaining the floor from the boards;
• predisposition to rubbing and the appearance of scratches and dents;
• the material is flammable;
• subject to rotting processes;
• can change its shape over time;
• the possibility of gaps appearing between the boards due to changes in their volumes in winter and summer.

Floorboard sizes

The parameters of the floorboard include its width, length and thickness. The most important size the floorboard is hers width.

Today you can find floorboards from 80 to 135 mm wide on sale. Standard parameters The thicknesses of the floorboards are as follows: 28, 30, 32, 35 and 40 mm. The length of the floorboards can be 3, 4, 4.5 or 6 meters.

As shown practical experience, the most popular size is a board with a width of 100−105 mm and a thickness of 30−35 mm.

When choosing the width of the floorboard, you must first take into account general room design. After all, a floorboard that is too narrow (or, conversely, too wide) will not fit into any interior.

When choosing the thickness of the board, you need to proceed from distances between joists for their installation. If the distance between adjacent logs exceeds 70 cm, then you should choose boards with a greater thickness.

How to choose a floorboard?

First of all, it is important to decide for what purpose the board will be used. If you need a board to make a “subfloor”, then you need to choose one that has no flaws, warping or rotten knots. Boards for organizing the finishing floor must have a stable geometry and absolutely no knots.

You also need to take responsibility when choosing the thickness of the boards. The minimum thickness of the floorboard should be 21-22 mm. Obviously, the choice of the thickness of the floorboard should be determined by the loads that your floor will feel.

Much attention should be paid wood quality, from which the board is made. The following parameters are important here:

• type of cut;
• presence of knots and cracks;
• percentage of material warping.

Installation of floorboards

In practice there is two main installation methods plank floors:

1. So-called "parquet" method, when boards are laid on a flat surface using glue.
2. Laying floorboards on joists.

Laying floorboards with glue

This method is often called “parquet”, since the process of laying floorboards here is similar to the process of laying regular parquet. The only difference is that the floorboards, due to their considerable thickness, additionally secured with self-tapping screws.

To use this method of installing floorboards, it is necessary that both the surface and the boards themselves are perfectly flat. Important point here is the right choice of glue. In principle, any glue will do: epoxy, dispersed or polyurethane. However, if the floorboards are made of exotic wood species (such as, for example, beech), then it is better not to use dispersed glue. The glue must be strong and, at the same time, flexible. Suitable for these purposes one- and two-component polyurethane adhesives.

Laying floorboards on joists

If your home has wooden floors between floors, or you need to lay the floor in a room with high ceiling, then it is better to use this installation method.

First you need to install the so-called logs, at a distance of 60−70 cm between them. Used as a floor joist wooden beam with a cross section of 50−70 mm. The logs must be treated with some kind of antiseptic.

As sound insulation for a floor made of boards, you can make an expanded clay floor screed or lay mineral wool. And in order to get rid of the “drum effect” as much as possible, you need to lay glassine or synthetic padding in the space between the boards and joists.

Next, the process of directly laying the floorboards begins. Usually a floorboard laid with the ridge forward. The first board is fastened in such a way that the screws overlap the wooden floor plinth.

The last stage laying the floor from the boards should be sanded, and then - varnishing the finished floor. You need to sand the floorboards first across, and then along and diagonally. To varnish the floor, it is recommended to use a high-strength varnish. Varnish on floorboards must be applied in at least two layers.

So, the floor is made of planks, no doubt. will make your home more comfortable and pleasant. Floorboards are an ideal, time-tested material that is durable, beautiful, stylish and environmentally friendly.

The phrase “subfloor” does not hide poorly processed boards, but a whole “pie” of various materials that form a solid foundation for the finished floor. After a series of measures, the base acquires heat, hydro and sound insulation properties. In the end, it is not so important which board will be used to construct the subfloor. Even purchasing unedged material may turn out to be optimal solution, because the price is a little lower, and with the help of a sanding machine, a jigsaw and a circular saw, any wooden base can be brought into proper shape. However, there are certain points that still need to be taken into account when choosing.

Material requirement

The board for arranging the subfloor must be hard, dry and level. Under no circumstances should the floor be covered with material that has not undergone a preliminary leveling procedure. The price of wood for the floor varies from $3 to $305, but it is not at all necessary to buy expensive varieties. Their similar use is not justified.

The ideal dimensions of the canvases are 2.5x10x600 and 2.5x15x600 cm. They are available for sale. Can be purchased at most construction depots. An unplaned board is also quite suitable for supports and linings.

When laying large areas It is better to use low-grade. In extreme cases, a wide slab or construction grade will do, but such material is no different in quality.

Boards unsuitable for use

For the installation of a subfloor, you can only use material that meets the following requirements:

1. For joists and flooring, only dry material without long longitudinal cracks is ideal. If the boards are damp, they will definitely crack over time.
2. Complete absence from wooden material any types of fungi (mold). Even just one moldy support can ruin a floor completely.
3. Heavily twisted boards are only suitable for creating wedges, chips and similar elements.

Preparation of material

After purchase, the material must be processed. The fact is that rough coating comes into contact with the ground, which can negatively affect the wood. Fungi, mold, bugs and some microorganisms may appear in it. To avoid similar situations, the material is treated with antiseptics, isolated from wet soil (using concrete or clay) and provided with ventilation.

The subfloor can be covered in different ways (based on the type of final flooring), but the rules for selecting and preparing the material must be followed. Violating them can lead to serious problems. The solution may even require a complete re-flooring.

Reliability, durability and appearance of the material depend directly on the correctness of the selected parameters. Including thickness. She is the guarantor of strength finished design and its resistance to deformation.

It is not necessary to sand almost even boards if you plan to install a finishing coating in the future, but, as practice shows, sanding is justified. It has been proven that:

• It is much easier to lay the finished floor on a sanded surface;
• It is not uncommon for a rough coating to be used as a finishing coating.

Laying the subfloor

For the installation of a subfloor, boards 2.5-3 cm thick are best suited. Perfect option– grooved pine boards.

Important! The greater the thickness, the more durable the coating.

Material selection

The subfloor makes the frame of the house more rigid. It can be created from the following materials:

• Plywood;
• Veneered boards;
• Untreated wood.

Listed materials after preliminary preparation able to cope with assigned responsibilities.

Important! Additional improvement of the floor is completely inadvisable when using tongue-and-groove boards large thickness. They are an excellent finish that only requires basic sanding and varnishing.

Some installation nuances

Untreated material suggests certain problems during installation: uneven ends result in gaps in the floor. They are eliminated using putty and grout. When installing, the boards are laid as close to each other as possible. You also need to install grooved ones. True, there are some differences in the installation process:

• The first veneer strip is laid with a ridge against the wall.
• The length of the first and last boards should correspond to the length of the wall.
• The boards are fastened into a groove parallel to each other. The screws are screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Working with nails also has its own characteristics: the heads should not rise above the base. For this reason, small recesses are created for the nails.

Installation

You can start making the rough layer after laying the lags. It is recommended to make all end joints in the middle of the joists. It is better to fix wooden building materials using screws of the required size. It is possible to lay the canvases at a short distance from each other, but it is better to install them without the slightest gaps.

Important! To lay milling boards, wedges, stops or special tightening devices are used.

Installation process:

• Begin laying from the wall. The tenon is first cut from the board and applied to the wall, making an indentation of 2 cm.

Important! A gap is required, since wood is plastic and can shrink and expand.

• The board is attached to the joists. Self-tapping screws are screwed into it from the wall side. Afterwards they will be covered with a plinth.
• The next panels need to be moved close to the previous ones and mounted in the grooves, where the self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to the joists.
• When boards are used, the length of which is shorter than the length of the room, the laying is done staggered.
• The last board is fastened taking into account the subsequent fixing of the plinth. A gap of 1-2 cm should be left.

Important! The pitch between the joists should be selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future covering.

Wood floors are ideal for country house, city apartment, public premises. They will make any room attractive and respectable, with correct operation will last for many years. The basis of such a floor is a floorboard. It is about this universal building material we will explain in detail in this article.

We will talk about how to choose the right floor boards, what types of wood they come from, what sizes and thickness. Also at the end of the article is posted detailed instructions on laying floorboards with your own hands.

Floorboards are made from different types of wood: linden, birch, beech, oak, maple, alder, coniferous varieties. The most popular were:

• Oak is a practical and expensive material that has gained immense popularity due to its high resistance to temperature changes and high humidity. At proper care will last a very long time.
• Aspen and alder are not particularly durable, but they have a healing effect on human body. Relevant in rooms with little traffic – children’s room, bedroom.
• Larch is practically not subject to rotting, it is used for arranging floors in rooms with high humidity– bathroom, sauna, swimming pool. The high concentration of resins significantly extends the service life. This material is ideal for flooring.
• Coniferous species - pine, fir, spruce - a budget option. Due to its low cost, it is widely used for all types of premises, including utility rooms. The low strength of wood is compensated by increasing the thickness of the board.
• Ash is almost identical to oak. It has high strength and durability, and is quite expensive.

Optimal thickness of floorboards

The thickness of the boards is usually 2-4 cm, the width is from 6 to 20, the length can be any, starting from 3 meters.

What board thickness is optimal for a wooden floor? A lot depends on the distance wooden logs from each other - the smaller this distance, the thinner the board can be. On average, with a standard distance between joists of 50 centimeters, the thickness of the floorboards is chosen to be 30-35 millimeters.

Length of boards construction markets usually from 3 to 6 meters, so their choice depends on the characteristics of the premises in which the installation will be carried out.

How much does a floorboard cost?

The cost of flooring boards, as you can understand, will depend on its size, but for clarity we will indicate average price standard board.

So, a standard tongue-and-groove floorboard with dimensions 36x135x6000 mm made of larch costs on average about 450 rubles per piece.

Laying floorboards with your own hands

There are many ways to install a wooden floor. Most suitable option are chosen individually, depending on the purpose of the room, the expected load, and climatic conditions. The boards are laid on a special frame made of logs or beams (height about 10 cm), while good ventilation is a must which will prevent the appearance of fungus and mold. On ground floors Waterproofing is always installed, and the structure is also insulated.

Floorboard covering combines load-bearing and decorative functions, and its durability depends on how well the material is selected and the installation technology is followed. Today, choosing a board is not difficult; they are divided into two main types:

1. The grooved ones are equipped with special mounting elements at the ends - grooves, ridges, chamfers, which guarantees high density and reliability of all connections. Available in thicknesses from 28 to 36 mm.
2. A regular board has straight ends and is laid end to end. The thickness can be any.

Before installation, all elements are treated with an antiseptic, which increases the service life of the wood.

Wooden floors are:

• Single layer. Laying is done on logs; the thickness of the boards must be at least 28 mm.
• Double-layer mounted on rough foundation from inexpensive material– Chipboard, plywood and others.

The work begins from the wall, making a gap of one and a half centimeters, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. The first floorboard is fixed with wedges, which will allow subsequent boards to be laid evenly and eliminate any shifts. Each subsequent part is secured with pressure to the previous one using nails or self-tapping screws. If the material is more than 14 cm wide, it is additionally secured in the middle, carefully masking the nail head.

After installation, the boards are sanded, primed, painted or varnished. All compounds are applied parallel to the fibers. You can walk on the new surface within a day, and it is recommended to move furniture in after a week.

Advantages of wooden building materials

Floor boards made of wood differ in hardness and strength, but they all have positive qualities:

• Attractive view.
• Eco-friendly floorboards.
• Resistant to deformation.
• High thermal insulation characteristics.
• Good sound insulation.
• Versatility - fits perfectly into any interior.
• A variety of textures and colors.

Experienced builders know that Before laying, floorboards must be kept indoors for several days, so that they adapt and acquire a stable state. To avoid the feeling low ceilings, wooden floors are best laid in high rooms– at least 3 meters.