If you want to maximize usable area at home, without spending exorbitant amounts of money, you should definitely consider projects with an attic. The experience of developers suggests that this the best way economy class housing layouts, because one square meter of living space in it costs several times less than in two-story buildings. There is a misconception that the attic is only suitable for seasonal use in the warm season.

However, it is erroneous, since a high-quality insulated sloping attic roof perfectly retains heat in winter, its temperature regime no less comfortable than in heated rooms on the first floor.

Even without additional thermal insulation, the attic is a kind of " air cushion", preserving optimal temperature inside the house.

A broken mansard roof is considered technically complex design, advising you to entrust its construction to a professional team. However, a person who is familiar with roofing work using the example of a traditional gable roof is quite capable of mastering its construction with his own hands, with the help of two auxiliary workers and assistants. The main thing is to understand that this is a process that requires a serious approach, which it would be reckless to start without preliminary calculations.

Types of mansard roofs

An attic is a heated or cold space under the roof that is used as living space. According to building regulations, in the attic room it is necessary to equip windows for natural light and ceilings of sufficient height for a person.

Rooms under the roof in which these conditions are not met are called attics. The following types of roofs are suitable for installing an attic:

broken roof

Installation of an attic roof suitable for living requires mandatory thermal insulation, organization of natural lighting using attic or vertical windows and forced ventilation.

Advantages of a broken structure

Of course, you can even equip an attic by building an ordinary one with your own hands triangular roof. But due to the steepness of the slopes, for the ceiling to work, the height of such a roof must be very large. This is not economical, and also impractical, because a roof with a variable pitch angle allows you to use the available space more efficiently.

A flatter top makes the ceilings appear higher. According to building codes, if the distance from the floor to the ridge connection is less than 2.5-2.7 meters, the room is not considered residential, it cannot be called an attic, it is rather just an attic. The sloping roof design has the following advantages:

• Possibility of installing higher ceilings.
• High level of protection from precipitation and wind.
• Light snow falling off the slopes.
• Helps conserve heat.
• Rational use of under-roof space.

Construction stages

Creating a Project

When drawing up a project for a broken mansard roof for construction with your own hands, it is better to draw up drawings with different projections, which will comprehensively show the location of its elements. Based on the length and width of the house, you need to decide on the dimensions attic room, as well as roofs. First of all, the geometry of the slopes is built:

In order for the project calculations to be correct, it is important to accurately take primary measurements, as well as maintain scale. Can make design easier computer programs, in which you just need to enter the dimensions of the building and the desired type of roof; they perform all the rest of the work automatically. If you have access to this software no, it’s better to use ready-made projects.

Calculation of the rafter system

Rafters - main supporting elements broken mansard roof, a kind of its backbone. They are subjected to enormous loads, so special requirements are placed on them.

Section selection rafter legs does not happen randomly, and in accordance with the installation pitch, the distance between supports, the values ​​of wind and snow load. If the first three indicators can be easily determined from the drawing, then the last two require special explanation.

• The territory of Russia is divided into 8 zones with different snow loads. For each specific roof, this value is adjusted by the angle of inclination of its slopes. Since the slope of the slopes is different, two indicators are calculated, respectively, the upper and lower rafters may have different sections.
• There is also zoning based on wind load, which also includes 8 zones. Using a coefficient that takes into account the height of the building, amendments are made to the table value of this indicator.
• The values ​​of these two indicators are summed to determine the total load. Numbers should be rounded up to provide a small margin of safety. Based on them, the required cross-section of the boards is determined using reference tables.

Mauerlat installation

The beginning of work on equipping a sloping mansard roof is the installation of a Mauerlat, a strong beam measuring 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. It is fixed to the end of the side external walls.

Its main task is to distribute the weight of the roof structure, transfer it to the foundation, and also protect the slopes from tipping over. The Mauerlat is laid along the top of the wall over pre-laid waterproofing, which is used as roofing material folded in half or several layers of a special film.

Fastening is carried out using metal pins; they must be placed in concrete screed. If we're talking about and reconstruction of the roof with your own hands, it is mounted with anchor bolts to the wall to a depth of 15-17 cm.

For timber and log houses they use wooden dowels. Please note that installation is flush.

Assembling the rafter system

Assembly rafter system sloping mansard roof occurs in the following order:

Completing the above points forms one roof truss. The rest are installed in the same way in increments of 60-120 cm.

Waterproofing and roofing works

When the DIY installation work is completed, you need to organize its waterproofing. For this you need waterproofing film or membrane, which is usually produced in roll form.

Fasteners are selected depending on the type of material. For tiles, galvanized self-tapping screws with rubber heads are used, which, during the tightening process, are deformed in such a way that they waterproof the hole.

To speed up the process, you can use a screwdriver. Shinglas or ondulin are fixed with nails 100 mm long. After completion of the roofing work, the gables and overhangs of the attic sloping roof are designed.

To summarize, we can say that a broken mansard roof will help you expand the area of ​​your house with your own hands. You can build it with your own hands, however, this will require special skills and costs, which will undoubtedly pay for themselves.

Video instruction

If we talk about the broken shape of the roof, then for some reason many people have questions. Meanwhile, it is nothing more than a type of gable roof. Therefore, for those who have decided to expand the space on the attic floor, they simply cannot think of a better option. And there are many fans of such original designs.

You can build a broken mansard roof yourself. You just need to know a certain sequence of actions to do this. Main principle The construction of a sloping roof is based on the principle of supporting the rafters on the floor beams.

Before you start building a roof, it is best to start by properly developing a project on paper, preferably in a checkered pattern. That's enough in a simple way Determining the height of the structure, the angles of inclination of the slopes, the size and location of window openings is even easier for people who have drawing skills or who can work with graphics programs on a computer. Once certain proportions are found, all that remains is to simply adhere to them.

After determining the desired proportions, you need to decide on the cross-sections of the elements of the rafter system, and then carry out strength calculations. For these purposes, you can use any suitable calculation program where such a possibility is provided, for example, “Calculation of the rafter system”. Or make detailed preliminary calculations in an Excel spreadsheet.

After all the dimensions of the future sloping attic roof have been completely calculated, you can begin its actual construction. Worth considering this process in more detail, literally step by step. Best to do it on someone specific example, taking, for example, a house with sides 8 by 8 m as a basis.

Step-by-step construction of a sloping mansard roof

Step 1. First of all, you need to start by installing the mauerlat and floor beams. Approximate parameters for calculating the cross-section of beams are 100 by 200 mm. The Mauerlat should be mounted on the inside of the walls, and the outside should be covered with bricks for aesthetic reasons. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the upper part of the Mauerlat does not protrude beyond the facing brick by 2-3 cm. This is necessary so that the load of the roof falls on the Mauerlat, otherwise it will be transferred to the facing brick, which is fundamentally wrong.

The next step is installation beam floors. First you need to install the outer floor beams. Their removal will determine the width of the cornice. The width of the cornice, depending on the wishes of the customer, can be 40-50 cm. The beams are special beams, the cross-section of which must be calculated separately, taking into account various aspects (snow load, wind load and other factors).

First of all, we install the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4.

For the specified brick box 8x8 meters in size, the section of the timber is chosen to be 100x200 mm. When the outer beams of the section are installed, it is necessary to tighten the lace along the top and align the other beams.

The pitch of the beams must be taken into account based on the pitch of the rafters that will be laid in the future. For example, if you take floorboards 50x150 mm, then it would be good to choose a pitch of 60-70 cm, even better to stop at 60 cm, taking into account that roofing insulation usually has this width. After installing long beams, you need to install short ones. The step for them is most often 1 meter. To attach beams to the mauerlat, 150-gauge nails are suitable. Sometimes the use of self-tapping screws and metal rafter corners is allowed.

Step 2. The installation of racks begins, which should be positioned strictly vertically. First of all, racks of timber measuring 100 by 150 mm are installed along the edges, and then, when the laces are tightened, smaller intermediate ones with a cross-section of 50 by 150 mm are installed. The distance between any elements should not exceed 3.

To keep the racks firmly in place, temporary spacers are used. The height of the racks should be 10 cm larger finishing ceilings indoors.

It should be said about the very important nuance. During construction new roof, when everything seems to be calculated and laid out properly, for some reason the correct rectangle does not work out. The result is a house shape that is actually narrowed in some direction. In principle, this should not be a big concern, but to make subsequent work easier, you should still position the racks so that you end up with a regular rectangle. This way it will be possible to make the rafters of the upper slopes using one template. Otherwise, you will have to use cords and trim the finished elements accordingly. Extra waste It’s unlikely that anyone will like the energy and time.

Step 3. Purlins consisting of boards measuring 50 by 150 mm are laid on top of the racks. The missing racks having the same dimensions are installed; no other spacers are needed. These structures will serve as a frame for the proposed walls of the room.

Step 4. In order to properly secure the purlins, roofing corners and tie rods, that is, crossbars, are placed on them. If we proceed from the parameters according to the example, then in this case the length of the ties will be 5.5 m. The sections can be calculated in a special program. If the section width of the guy wires is 50 mm, then, accordingly, the height will be over 210 mm. Various deflections are eliminated using suspensions. Of course, this will significantly increase the load on the rafters of the upper slopes, so it would be reasonable to increase the cross-sectional dimensions of the rafters of the upper slopes obtained in the calculations from 50 to 150 mm to a value of 50 to 200 mm.

A temporary support is placed under each of the bolts (crossbar). To do this, use the middle of the span. There may be sagging that needs to be reduced. An inch measuring 25 by 150 mm is perfect. All these measures will allow you to move safely along the puffs. Breakages, as well as all kinds of sagging, are practically excluded.

To make the structure more rigid, you need to fasten the puffs on top, after them complete installation, board measuring 25 by 150 mm. This very board should not be placed strictly in the middle; you need to deviate from any of the axes by at least 20 cm.

Step 5. Next, you can proceed to installing the side rafters. You will need to make a template first, after which the top cut is made. As for the bottom cut, it is marked in place, and then the rafters are fastened and plugs for the insulation are installed.

Step 6. After this, the process of installing the rafters of the upper slopes begins. To make a template, take a piece of board measuring 25 by 150 cm, which is then fixed to the outer crossbar strictly vertically. Any of the corners of the board must necessarily coincide with the axis of the roof being built. After all, the right edge of the board will coincide with the axis of the roof. Next, take a suitable small board, apply it, and mark the upper and lower cuts on it with a pencil.

Two rafters are made and installed according to the template. Ridge beam It's better not to use it for this purpose. After installing the first pair of rafters, it must be secured with a brace to prevent a fall.

Next, all other rafters are installed. For a roof 8 m long, 4 struts would be appropriate, a pair in different directions. We temporarily fasten the remaining pairs of rafters with an inch board, because there is no sheathing yet.

Step 7 The sewing of pendants takes place, that is, boards measuring 25 by 150 mm. This is done so that the crossbars do not sag after the temporary supports are removed. This board should also not be placed in the middle of the structure, otherwise it will simply interfere with the process.

Step 8 Coming The final stage erection of the roof. Namely, the pediment frame is installed and then sheathed. Only after this can you begin to manufacture cornices, sheathing, gable overhangs and ebbs.

After the sloping attic roof is completely ready, you can begin roofing work. This is, without a doubt, no less important stage, but, as they say, a completely different story. It is worth noting that everything construction works, which were discussed, are best performed by three people.

Sloping roofs belong to the category of popular and most effective roofing structures. The construction and arrangement of such a roof requires the contractor to have certain skills necessary calculations and related activities.

However, having understood the basic provisions of the manual, it will be possible to cope with the arrangement of such a roofing structure on our own without the involvement of third-party specialists, which will allow significant savings.

A sloping roof is perfect for situations where it is planned to equip a residential attic. In this case, the under-roof room will have fairly high ceilings.

It is somewhat more difficult to erect a sloping roof than an ordinary one- or gable structure, however, as you already know, there are no impossible tasks.

Broken roofs look best on buildings that have a square shape. If your house is narrow and long, there will be practically no benefit from the attic, and therefore from the roof structure in question.

Any roofing structure, and the broken line is no exception, are calculated in two stages. When performing the first calculation, the required amount of finishing material is established, and the second calculation is intended to establish the load-bearing capacity of the rafters.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

The first calculation is performed using the geometric dimensions of the roofing system. Calculating the load-bearing capacity of the rafter system is somewhat more complicated. When performing it, you need to take into account the following indicators:

Having received all the listed data, you will be able to calculate the rafter system using the appropriate formulas or special programs, which is simpler, faster and more convenient.

Based on the calculation results, you will determine whether the sections are suitable structural elements specifically to your roofing structure. If necessary, the characteristics of the sheathing and rafter legs can be changed. You can also replace the roofing material.

For maximum convenience, create a three-dimensional model of the future broken roof structure with the parameters you choose. Special programs will help you with this.

What to build a roof from?

After completing all calculations and preparing the necessary project documentation, you will know what the cross-section of the elements of the roof truss system should be, what kind of sheathing is best to equip and what kind of roofing the material is suitable specifically for your case.

Go buy the necessary equipment.

First of all, buy timber for arranging the mauerlat, as well as beams or boards for installing sheathing and edged board for the rafter system. Rafters can also be made from timber.

Perfect fit coniferous wood. It is important that the moisture content of the material does not exceed 20-22%. The material should not have large knots. Traces of damage by bugs and bluish spots should also be absent.

Consider the fact that the strength, reliability and durability of the broken roofing structure directly depends on the quality of the wood.

Before using the purchased material for its intended purpose, be sure to treat it with an antiseptic. Special means will protect the material from rotting. Also, periodic treatment with antiseptics will need to be carried out throughout the entire period of use of the roofing structure.

In addition to antiseptics, all wood must be treated with fire retardants - these are special fire-fighting agents.

Process the material outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to wear protective gloves and a respirator. The mentioned products are applied in a double layer. For application it is most convenient to use a sprayer; ordinary brushes are also suitable.

After applying the impregnations, let them dry completely, and only then proceed to other planned activities.

Also, to equip a broken roof structure, you will need fasteners - screws, plates, bolts, etc.

Additionally purchase suitable materials for waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier of structures, as well as finishing roofing material.

The procedure for constructing a roof

The arrangement of the structure in question is carried out in several simple steps.

First step

Secure the Mauerlat to the upper strapping beam.

Second step

Install the rafters as required by your design drawings. Pre-cut templates for connecting the rafter elements with the support beam (mauerlat).

Third step

Expose vertical racks and secure them to the floor beams. They will take over the function of the frame of the walls of the future under-roof room.

At the top, tie the posts together using purlins. These elements will simultaneously take on the functions of tightening for the upper rafter elements and ceiling beams for the attic room.

Perform further work according to the requirements of your project. In this case, be sure to take into account that the rafters, due to which a vertical roof slope is formed and the tightening of the upper rafter legs with the Mauerlat is ensured, must be layered. The upper rafters in the design of such a roof will be of the hanging type.

For additional rigidity of hanging rafter legs, provide fixation on the headstocks. They must be connected to tie rods that serve as beams for the ceiling of the attic floor.

If necessary, install spacers and struts. All listed structural fasteners should be initially marked on your roof drawings.

On the outer rafters located at the ends of the house, install additional frames to accommodate the gables, doorways and double-glazed windows.

Insulation work and finishing

Finally, all that remains is to install the necessary insulating materials. First, attach a vapor barrier film to the frame of the roofing structure, laying it along the rafters and securing it with a stapler. Attach the film with an overlap, without excessive sagging.

Install the timber sheathing. Select the lathing pitch individually in accordance with the characteristics of the selected finishing coating. In some situations, a metal profile is used to arrange the sheathing, but the option using wooden beam is the most common.

Lay down thermal insulation material(preferably mineral wool) between rafter elements. Place the insulation in a spacer. From the outside attic room additionally secure the insulation with lathing. In the future, the final internal coating will be attached to it.

Lay down waterproofing material. The principles of installation and fastening are the same as in the case of a vapor barrier membrane. Proceed with laying the finishing material on top of the installed moisture insulation. The slopes of the design under consideration are based on a broken profile, therefore finishing coat Installation should begin from the bottom.

At the joints of the roof slopes, lay the top row of finishing material so that it overlaps the lower tier and creates a kind of canopy over it.

Laying roofing on an attic roof

Finally, you need to install various additional elements roofing structures such as gutters, fencing, etc.

Finished broken line roof structure, created on its own, is in no way inferior to similar buildings equipped with the assistance of professionals.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself sloping roof

Using all possible space, giving the house originality and significantly reducing heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn cottage in two-level. Another attractive thing is that you can build an attic roof with your own hands even without special construction skills. It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

Windows on a regular floor are located in the walls. In attics there are no or almost no walls. They are replaced by a roof. That’s why windows are made special: they not only have to let light in sufficient quantity, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

Dormer windows

When planning an attic, you should take into account the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend making the window area no less than 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for installing skylights with an attic, inclined installation is the easiest to implement. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, and also to use special models with reinforced frames and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a sloping roof window:

• more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
• the roof surface remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
• relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it is necessary to remember that its area increases with increasing angle of inclination. At what height is it more convenient to install such a window and how its height increases in centimeters depending on the inclination, look at the photo.

The steeper the slope relative to the floor, the smaller the window height should be.

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it and calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to place two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

When installing a dormer window, the roof geometry becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex both during planning and during assembly. The complexity of laying the roof covering also increases. All valleys are the places where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything needs to be done very carefully. In regions with a lot of snow, it is advisable to install snow guards over such windows so that they are not blown away in the event of a sudden meltdown.

Installation of a vertical dormer window in an attic roof

The advantage of such a window: you can stand near it full height. But they let in less light, the terrain becomes more complex and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if there is access to a balcony through it. In other cases, this method of arrangement is not the best option: little light gets in, the shadows turn out to be very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complex, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, a reinforced frame or reinforced glass is not needed. Just high-quality glass is quite enough. This option is most often seen on country attics: this is the most inexpensive option, which you can easily implement with your own hands.

Rafter system

When independently building private houses with an attic, they usually choose a broken roof. It allows you to get a room of significant area, larger than under a gable.

With the same width of the base (of the house), the attic space under a sloping roof is larger than under a regular gable roof. The rafter system is becoming more complex, but gable roof with an attic under a sloping roof is still more popular

The design of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house an interesting look. But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They're still closing top part walls from precipitation and divert the bulk of water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that in strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main one of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on the roofing material, but most of all - on the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the plane of the attic floor are inclined by 60°, the upper slopes by 30°. Based on these data and the parameters of your building, you can calculate all lengths. Just take into account that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, this is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

At classic version load from precipitation on side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be retained on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45°.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually varies between 45° and up to 80°. The steeper the slope, the greater the windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds It is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

The design of a sloping mansard roof is one of the options for the rafter system (the most common)

To make the frame of a sloping roof with your own hands, they most often use pine lumber, grade no lower than 2. The choice of cross-section of timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing covering (its weight), wind and snow loads in the region, and the pitch of rafter installation. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The methodology is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

One of the options for constructing a frame with hanging rafters

The figure above shows a drawing of a frame with hanging rafters. It can only be implemented if the base of the upper triangle is no more than 4.5 meters (in this case, this is the width of the attic room). If more, you will have to make layered rafters, which should rest on load-bearing wall in the middle (the attic will be divided into two parts by a row of beams).

Another version of the upper part is shown in the photo below (the picture is clickable). In this case, the side rafters are reinforced with struts. They significantly increase the rigidity of the system.

There is a second way to achieve a similar effect - to establish contractions - in the figure they are only outlined with barely visible lines. The length of the side rafter leg is divided by three, and contractions are established in these places. They will be needed if roof covering will have a significant weight.

Option for installing a sloping roof truss system - with struts that increase the rigidity of the system

For a building that is small in size, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafters, a tie rod, floor beams, racks and side rafters (pictured below).

Construction of a rafter system for a broken mansard roof for small house

How to calculate a sloping roof

The attic sloping roof of a small house (no more than 6-7 meters wide) has been built so many times that, based on experience, we can say what materials should be used. Many parameters are dependent on other materials. For example, the installation step of the rafters is tied to the parameters of the insulation. To ensure that there is as little waste as possible during insulation and installation is simpler, it is necessary that the distance from one rack to another be slightly less than the width of the insulation (20-30 mm). So, if you are going to use mineral wool, its width is 60 cm. Then the racks need to be installed so that the clearance between two adjacent ones is 57-58 cm and no more.

The width of the board for the rafter leg is again determined based on the insulation. For central Russia required thickness basalt wool is 200-250 mm. That's not all. In order for the thermal insulation to dry, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm is required (without it, condensation will gradually rot the wood and render the mineral wool unusable). In total, it turns out that the minimum width of the rafter leg should be 230 mm. The thickness of the board is at least 50 mm. This is in regions with light winds and not very heavy snowfalls. To summarize, for all rafters - ridge and side - a board of 230 * 50 mm is required.

If lumber with such characteristics turns out to be too expensive, it will be possible to do the insulation in two directions: partly along the rafters, partly, filling the sheathing, across. You can lay a minimum of 100 mm of basalt wool, therefore you can take a standard board 50 * 150 mm and leave a 50 mm ventilation gap, or order a non-standard 130 * 50 mm. It's up to you to see which is more profitable for the money.

For racks and beams, it is better to take a beam of at least 80 * 80 mm, better - 100 * 100 mm. Especially in areas with difficult weather conditions - heavy snowfalls or strong winds.

Order a more accurate calculation from specialists. This is a long process consisting of collecting loads from the roofing material, the structural elements themselves, wind and snow loads. After which, according to a certain formula, elements are selected. More detailed information For information on how the calculation is carried out, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof: installation procedure

The design of the Mauerlat on mansard roofs is no different from the standard version. If or logs, you can use the upper crown as a mauerlat. It is only pre-treated with impregnation with high protective properties.

If the wall is made of foam blocks, a reinforced monolithic belt. On brick wall or made of shell rock or other similar materials, the construction of such a belt is not necessary. Waterproofing is laid in two layers on the wall, and on top is a timber treated with an antiseptic - 150 * 150 mm or a log. It is secured with embedded studs.

When assembling all elements, long nails are used - at least 150 mm long. In the most critical places, it is better to connect three or more elements using bolts or studs with double-sided threads. It is advisable to strengthen all joints with steel plates or corners.

First way

Installation of attic roof rafters is done in two ways. First: they assemble the parts on the ground, then in finished form lift up. There, the outer structures, which will become pediments, are put up first. They are placed vertically and secured. It is often more convenient to secure them with long bars nailed to the wall (temporary). The following assembled structures are inserted into the prepared recesses in the Mauerlat (they are made at the required pitch). They are positioned strictly vertically and carefully secured. If necessary, additional temporary spacers are installed to fix them in the desired position. Side beams are installed.

How to build a sloping roof in this way and assemble the nodes, see the video below.

Second way

The second method - the construction of a sloping roof is carried out sequentially by assembling elements directly on site. This method is more convenient if the structure is large and when assembled it can only be lifted using special equipment (crane).

First, the floor beams are laid. Stands and ties are attached to them, and temporary spacers are installed to hold them in the vertical direction. Next, the upper and side rafter legs are assembled, and the tie rods and jibs are installed.

During installation, the following sequence of actions is observed: first, the outermost elements are installed and adjusted to the desired position, and securely fastened. If necessary, use temporary spacers. A fishing line, rope, and cord are stretched between them, which will serve as a guide for the installation of all subsequent elements. This simple move allows you to get the ideal geometry (don’t forget to check the slope angle, verticality or horizontality).

On top of the racks, tie-downs are attached - bars, to which the side rafters are then fixed and onto which the tie-down of the upper triangle is installed. The ties are secured using metal corners. Since the beams are long, they sag. This is later eliminated - after installing the upper rafter legs - with the help of vertical beams of fixed or adjustable height. And temporarily they can be supported with racks (so as not to pull the entire system).

To make it easier to bear desired angle When installing the side rafter legs, templates are made according to which cuts are made. But since the geometry of buildings built with your own hands is rarely ideal, adjustments may be necessary. To check the resulting angle of inclination, another template is knocked down from several boards, which is used to check the correct installation.

If the standard length of lumber - 6 meters - is not enough, either order the required length (expensive) or increase it. When building up, two boards measuring at least 0.6 meters (30 cm on each side of the joint) are nailed to the joint. They are nailed on both sides or bolts are used.

A reliable way to build rafters. The length of the “patch” is at least 60 cm

After installing the side rafters, all that remains is to install the top ones. A template is also made for them, pre-cut on the ground, and installed on top.

The top part can be made in different ways. Its structure depends on the width of the base. How to make it, look at the photo below.

Since the structure of the attic sloping roof does not provide for the presence of a ridge, a beam is placed in the middle to tighten it, to which the slopes are attached, fixing the triangle in the required position.

Nodes and their drawings

When installing a rafter system, questions may arise regarding the assembly of nodes—the intersections and connections of several structural elements. In the photo you see drawings of key connections.

The second option for connecting the side layered rafters and the upper triangle. Bolts are used for more secure fastening.

How to make a do-it-yourself fastening of the upper tee and rafter leg on an attic roof

Methods for attaching rafter legs to the mauerlat or, as in this case, to the side beam are shown in the figure below. To make it easier to mount a heavy element, a thrust board (bar) is nailed to the bottom of the rafter, which limits its movement: the board rests against the edge and does not allow it to sink lower.

The attic does not have to be used as a place to store unnecessary things. Very often, the area of ​​this room allows you to equip it with a full-fledged living area or a place for family leisure or hobbies. The idea of ​​such construction has been successfully used since the mid-17th century thanks to the French architect Francois Mansart and is especially relevant for increasing the area of ​​a private house, and sometimes city apartments.

How to inhabit an attic, what measures should be taken for this and how to build an attic where there has never been one? Look for answers to these questions in our article.

We are building an attic

Installing an attic will help to significantly reduce construction costs as a whole, rationally use the available floor space and realize the most daring ideas. The attic floor can occupy either the entire attic or part of it, depending on the purpose of the future room: bedroom, study, office or bathroom.

Cozy do-it-yourself attic

Building an attic with your own hands also provides the following advantages:

• The infrastructure of the main building is fully used.
• The living space increases significantly.
• Reducing heat loss through the roof and, as a result, reducing energy costs during the cold season.
• Relatively simple installation (without the use of special equipment) and the ability to stay in the house during construction.
• Possibility of building a one- or two-level floor.

How to make an attic a unique architectural element

Important: When building an attic floor with your own hands, you need to consider design features buildings, including: the height of the walls, the shape of the roof, the location of communications - and comply with fire safety requirements.

Features of the construction of the attic floor

The roof is an enclosing structure, which, in addition to precipitation and temperature changes from the outside, is subject to influences from the inside: heat and moisture from the living space, and these can cause dampness and corrosion. Therefore, when constructing an attic floor, very stringent requirements are put forward for hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation of the roof, compliance with which will ensure reliable protection premises from negative factors.

How to properly isolate attic floor during construction

Also, when building an attic floor, it is important to take care of high-quality ventilation, which is installed between the insulation and the roof. This will ensure removal excess moisture and ventilation of the attic.

Particular attention should be paid to construction technology and the materials used (especially their weight) - this will ensure safe operation attic floor in the future. In addition, do not forget that using the attic floor as a living space does not eliminate compliance with the technical requirements for the operation of the roof.

Where to start construction?

Before construction begins, a technical examination of the building is carried out. It is worth remembering that initially the walls and foundation of the building were designed for a certain load, and construction additional floor will significantly increase it, so you should make sure of their load-bearing capacity.

Construction frame attic

Design

The next stage of construction will be the development and approval of the attic floor project - for this it is better to contact qualified specialists who will help draw up a competent drawing, calculate the loads and estimates.

Important: If the construction of an attic with your own hands is carried out within the city limits, then for this you must obtain permission from the city authorities, expert opinion and the consent of all building owners.

The attic floor plan is developed based on the layout of the main building, with the geometry of the roof playing a dominant role. The architectural appearance of the house will influence not only the design of the rafter system, but also the materials used in construction and individual elements of the attic. All structures and parts must be as lightweight as possible, which will ensure minimal load on the walls of the building and ensure easy lifting of materials to the floor.

If the roof of the house has a large slope, then choose roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing when building an attic floor should be approached with particular care.

In addition, all communications of the attic floor must be interconnected with the systems in the house, and their joint operation must be ensured.

The shape of the room, as well as its dimensions, determine the choice of windows, their design and placement in the interior.

Construction of an attic

Regardless of whether the attic is being built with your own hands, photo below, in an existing attic or is being built from scratch, it is necessary to ensure the unity of architectural and design solutions.

Can be built on wooden attic on a brick house

The attic structure is best made of wood (timber) or metal profile In addition, you can complete the floor from SIP panels, as in the photo below. Stone materials, including brick and concrete, are not recommended for use in construction due to their heavy weight. As a last resort, you can use aerated concrete blocks.

We build an attic with our own hands using SIP panels

Durable but lightweight materials, such as corrugated sheets, bitumen or composite tiles, and metal tiles, are also suitable for roofing.

Since the attic has large area surfaces in contact with the environment and significant heat losses occur through the roof, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and effective thermal insulation of this floor. For insulation, it is best to use mineral wool or fiberglass with a thickness of 150 mm or more. WITH inside The insulation on the attic floor must be covered with a vapor barrier, and on the roof side – with waterproofing. In addition, it is necessary to install a ventilation system between the waterproofing and the roof, which will ensure the removal of excess moisture.

Since the attic is a living space, it needs natural light, which windows will help provide. These can be either ordinary vertical window structures that are mounted into walls, or special inclined windows that are installed in the roof plane at an angle of 15-90 degrees.

Dormer windows- expensive but effective

Important: Dormer windows let in more light than standard windows with a smaller opening area. To ensure the most efficient and uniform lighting, the ratio of window area to floor area should be 1:10.

The final stage of the attic floor installation will be Finishing work. The most simple option plasterboard is used for cladding the walls of the attic floor; it can be used to construct internal partitions. GKL sheets are attached to a frame made of metal profiles, after which they are puttied and the finishing coating can be applied: paint, wallpaper, etc. In addition to plasterboard, the walls can be sheathed with clapboard, wood panels— the choice of material depends on the purpose and design of the future attic. The same materials that are used throughout the building are suitable for the floor: parquet, laminate, batten, ceramic tile and etc.

After construction is completed, you can start decorating: think through the interior, install a staircase, arrange furniture, etc.

More information about building an attic with your own hands (video):

Attic floor extension

The addition of an attic floor allows you to simply and effectively increase living space without the use of expensive equipment and complex technologies, and such construction can be carried out both in a private house and in a standard urban building. The cost of completion is approximately half of the cost of new construction. The structure can be wooden - from logs and timber; stone - made of foam blocks, brick and concrete; made of metal, as well as their various combinations.

Monolithic attic can have any shape

It is necessary to determine which part of the building structure will bear the load from the extension. If the strength of the walls and foundation is not enough, you will need to install racks on the outside of the building. separate foundation, which will support the attic floor. A new attic frame on a separate foundation is also necessary in an old house if the supporting structures have significant wear. It would be useful to change attic floor, since it is most likely not designed for heavy loads.

The construction of an attic involves the construction of a power structure, which depends on the roof truss system. To build this structure, it is better to use lightweight materials: thin-walled profiles and wood. They will help speed up construction, since fastening is carried out using bolts and rivets. The optimal slope angle of the rafters should be 45-60 degrees.

Important: When manufacturing a rafter system, you should focus on the conditions of the area where construction is taking place. The load-bearing capacity of the roof must be designed for the pressure of wind, snow and roofing material.

The roofs themselves, picture below, can be:

• Single-pitch.
• Gable.
• Broken.
• The hip ones.

1 – simple gable roof; 2 - gable roof with attic wall; 3 – hip; 4 - hipped

The last two types are best suited for the attic, but the final choice is determined by the intensity of the load acting on the coating.

During construction, it should be taken into account that the width of the room should not be less than 4.5 m, and the area of ​​the entire attic floor should not be less than 7 m2, while the ratio of height and area is ideally 1:2.

The simplest construction option is to build a frame attic with your own hands. To install the attic it is necessary to eliminate old roof, study the condition load-bearing structures for damage and develop a floor plan. After this, the foundation and frame of the attic are installed. Then the roof is installed and insulated.

Learn more about how to build an attic with your own hands - video: