Good afternoon Tell us, step by step, how to empty a tray bath from the solution for shower corner followed by waterproofing and tiling.

Unfortunately, you did not provide information about your bathroom, which would help us give comprehensive advice. It would be necessary to know the design of the ceiling and floor with heights, the mark of the entrance to the sewer riser relative to the level of the finished floor (top mark), the distance from the shower tray to the riser. And understand what kind of pallet you want to make. Since we do not know any of this, we will have to limit ourselves to general recommendations, otherwise you will have to write a whole textbook for the forum, because there can be a lot of options. If you send detailed information, preferably with a photo, we can give more detailed advice. So:

1. First of all, you need to decide what profile and configuration of the pallet you want to get.
   • Today, a flat shower tray flush with the floor is in fashion (in trend, as creative and advanced people say). That is, there is no side; in the place where the shower stall or doors are installed, a slight slope (2% is enough) to the drain in the floor is simply made. If there are no doors, so that the water does not overflow beyond the pan, it should be deepened by 2-3 centimeters relative to the general level of the bathroom floor. This is enough for normal drain operation. In fact, this is how shower nooks in public showers are equipped: old Soviet baths and fancy modern fitness centers.

     Good glass, absence of a pallet or side, slight slope of the floor and a ladder made of of stainless steel. Chic and comfortable

   • Perhaps you want to get a standard shower tray with a side, but you prefer to make it monumental from concrete, not trusting Chinese fiberglass. This is also possible.

     

     Concrete pallet with side. Isn’t it easier (and cheaper) to buy ready-made steel or acrylic? True, a monolithic one can be given any shape

   • Now you need to find out which option is available to you. You have the finished floor level, the top mark. If there is no floor yet, you will have to calculate it. There is (or is also not yet) a horizontal mark for the entrance to the sewer. It is advisable to enter the vertical riser not at a right angle, but with two bends at 45º, this will protect the pipes from blockages. You need to install a drain in the floor. There are many on sale different models, but even the most compact one will take up at least 8 cm in height.

     This is the only horizontal ladder suitable if you are limited in height by the screed design. Height adjustment will simplify installation and forgive minor errors in determining the level

     The slope of the sewer pipe that will go into your floor should be at least 2 cm per meter of length. Diameter drain pipe- 5 cm. So you need to first purchase a ladder and clearly measure all distances taking into account slopes. Starting measurements from the riser, get a mark at which it is possible to install the drain. If it is located below the finished floor, options A and B are available to you, above - only B.

     

     It is necessary to carefully measure the horizontal marks from the entrance to the sewer riser to the top of the ladder and make sure that it is possible to place the drain at the planned height. In the ceiling wooden beams it's easier to do this. Don’t forget, by the way, to then lay sound insulation insulation between the beams

     For option A, you also need to look at whether the sewer will fit into the floor screed and whether the height is enough. If we are talking about floors on the ground in a private house and work is just beginning, you have complete freedom actions.

   • Decide whether you are willing to pay for a factory-made base for a tray built into the floor. It is a panel of warm but dense polyurethane foam 2.5-4 cm thick. By the way, it is waterproof and cuts well. The necessary slopes to the ladder have already been formed in it, and there is a hole. It is better to use a branded ladder, not cheap, but of high quality. If you wish, you can choose a simpler one, as long as the diameter fits. Similar bases for built-in trays are produced by most well-known manufacturers of drainage systems and plumbing fixtures for showers, and often supply them to order. A pan + drain kit made in Germany will cost 125-250 euros. Chinese products are also appearing, cheaper, but we cannot yet assess their level.

     The use of such a semi-finished pallet greatly simplifies installation. The pallet is lightweight, it can also be installed in a frame, wooden house, in the ceiling on beams.

     Under it you need to make a recess in the floor, having previously waterproofed the base (concrete, wooden structures). Don’t forget: if there are no doors, the depth of the recess should be slightly greater than the height of the pallet. The sewer should already be drained. After assembling the ladder and gluing the pallet, you can go to the sanitary silicone sealant. Use it to fill the gaps between the panel, walls and floor. It is also better to place the ladder on sealant. Ready: the base can be covered.

     Certainly, imported base It costs money, but it is reliable and makes the job much easier.

   • If you decide to do without an expensive device, you will have to monolith. We won’t describe the construction in detail, because we don’t know what’s under your tiles. But in any case, you must fulfill several conditions:
     
   • Waterproofing should be given increased attention. Ideally it should be double. The first layer is a roll of bitumen-polymer, glued to the floor slab or concrete base on the ground. The second is cement-polymer, performed according to finishing screed floor and on top of an already cast (and standing for at least three weeks) pallet. Let us repeat, it is cement-polymer, instead of conventional bitumen mastic or rolls of tiles will not stick properly. There are, however, imported bitumen compounds with high adhesion, but they are quite expensive.

     It would be best to carry out the treatment with an elastic two-component mixture, for example, the Belarusian-German composition Ceresit CR 166, which has a good price/quality ratio. Depending on the brand, such mixtures will cost 80-150 usd. Such insulation is extremely reliable and very durable, provided that the manufacturer's recommendations are fully followed during the work.

     

     If you do not think that your shower is worthy of such expenses and are ready to sacrifice quality in exchange for less expensive materials, waterproofing can be done with a cheap one-component mixture, for example, Ceresit CR 65. It must be applied with a spatula in two layers, there should be no gaps or unfilled shells

     

     Despite the fact that manufacturers allow applying polymer-cement waterproofing with a roller and brush, use a spatula, the result will be better. And cover the drain grate with masking tape before starting work.

     Waterproofing is produced in packages of 25 kg, this is enough not only for the pallet itself, but also for screeding the floor of the entire bathroom. It is advisable to treat the walls above the pallet with the mixture. Pay special attention to the junction of the pallet and the wall; fill the gap (if there is one) with sealant or seal it with a special elastic tape (expensive).

   • Cladding can be a bit tricky. You will have to provide a slope to the ladder. There won’t be any special problems with small mosaics, but it’s unlikely to be possible to lay large-format tiles without cutting them. The cut and fracture of the planes are formed from the corners of the pallet to the ladder. Elastic, moisture-resistant tile adhesive and fugue should be used. For example, Ceresit CM 14 glue (Ceresit CM 17 SuperFlex, if the floor is wooden) and Ceresit CE 40 aquastatic grout.

     

Considering the passage of time modern people are increasingly giving preference quick methods adoption of hygiene procedures.

It is undeniable that lying in hot bath foam is a real pleasure, but what if there is simply no time for such relaxation? In this situation, a shower comes to the rescue.

As a rule, taking a shower is a less time-consuming procedure.

Modern shower cabins have a lot of options that can satisfy any consumer desires. Depending on the model and cost of the shower cabin, you can get a shower with a steam room and other functions.

But what if all these technical innovations are not needed, and the cost of the shower cabin is high? In such a situation, you can resort to building a shower with your own hands. In addition, the shower cabins presented in stores do not always correspond to the required dimensions.

And if a shower is required for a summer residence or country house, where use occurs only one season a year, then a DIY shower is an excellent solution.

When creating a shower, you can use various materials that meet the desired characteristics.

Shower materials

In order to start making a shower with your own hands, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. You should start with the room itself; it must be insulated, have waterproofing, as well as a well-thought-out water drainage system.

There are a lot of options for creating a shower, but basically, to make your tasks easier, you purchase a ready-made shower tray. Such pallets are installed indoors, and the cabin is made from available materials.

Ceramic tile

Tile is a good material for a homemade shower cabin; it meets all operating requirements. Tiles come in many colors and sizes.

To create a shower from ceramic tiles, you can use a tray, or when laying out the tiles, make a slope directly into the floor.

PVC panels

PVC panels are used for final finishing inside the shower stall. The material is quite unpretentious and has good performance properties, but such material is short-lived.

Polycarbonate

This material has a lot color solutions, is budget-friendly and durable. The interior looks quite interesting.

Polycarbonate is installed on metal corner and the joints should be sealed. It has proven itself well in operation, with proper care.

If the finished pallets do not fit in size, or are simply not suitable for you, you can make a pallet yourself.

There are several ways to make a pallet. The simplest is a pallet made of brick. If this method is chosen, then be sure to use roofing felt as waterproofing. You can use concrete to create a pallet, but this method takes longer.

To make showering comfortable, communications need to be established at the initial stage. If not central water supply, then for these purposes a well with an electric pump is suitable, which will supply cold water when opening the tap.

And for hot water, you can hang a water heater, to which you also need to supply cold water. A self-made shower with cold and hot water is the pride of the owner of the house. And accept hygiene procedures such a soul is a pleasure.

Whatever construction and finishing material is chosen, as well as the shower tray, the main thing is the presence of a drain made at an angle. Also Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to waterproofing the floor and walls in the shower.

If inner surface The walls and floor in the shower will be tiled, you should start tiling two rows away from the floor and install supports. After all the tiles have been laid, grout should be used.

Photo of a shower cabin in a bathroom

This article will tell you how to make a shower tray in the washing room of a bathhouse with your own hands, without having vocational training. Your own shower tray will be an excellent alternative to purchased trays and shower cabins, which are so widely represented in retail chains and stores.

You could go the other way - buy a ready-made tray or shower stall and install it in your bathhouse. Many people do this, if the washing room has a wooden floor - there is simply no other choice. However, today's popular acrylic pallets are not strong enough, they scratch easily and turn yellow over time. Installing them in a bathhouse, where, as a rule, many people wash at the same time, is not entirely practical.

A good solution would be to install a ceramic shower tray or cast marble. They have high strength and wear resistance, but their selling price is appropriate, unless, of course, they are made in China.

Steel pallets are made from relatively thin steel coated with enamel. They have a limited service life and are susceptible to corrosion when the enamel is chipped. In addition, they are quite noisy when jets of water hit them.

It's another matter when washing bath concrete floor. Making a shower tray on it yourself is not difficult. And if, then God himself ordered to arrange a washing room in it at his own discretion: to decorate ceramic tiles or mosaic floors, walls and, of course, shower tray.

The advantages of choosing such a shower tray are obvious:

1. Long service life.
2. Practicality in operation and maintenance.
3. Possibility of manufacturing a pallet of any configuration that fits into interior design baths Color, depth, dimensions are chosen depending on their desires and needs. For example, if you increase the height of the wall of the pallet and its length, it can turn into a bathtub.
4. Unlimited design possibilities.
5. Low cost of materials.
6. It is also important that a properly made shower tray will be a source of pride and satisfaction from the work done.

Making a homemade shower tray

The design of the proposed shower tray in the bathhouse is a concrete base, finished with ceramic tiles. There is a wall along the outer contour to prevent water from getting onto the floor of the washing room.

A shower drain is poured inside the body of the base, which serves to drain waste water into the sewer system. The bottom is made in the form of tetrahedral surfaces with a slope towards the ladder.

Before tiling all surfaces with ceramic tiles concrete base treated with a cement-based waterproofing compound that is completely waterproof.

The facing with ceramic tiles is made using tile moisture-resistant tile adhesive, and the joints are sealed with moisture-resistant grout from the CEREZIT trademark.

To prevent contact with concrete along wooden walls The baths are lined with roofing felt, folded in two layers.

Making a shower tray with your own hands

The following basic materials will be required:

What to consider before starting work on the pallet

Before you start making a tray, you need to install the entire water drainage system: shower drain and from it to the inner sewer system baths Installation of water supply will not be considered in this article, as this is a separate topic and must be approached separately.

As mentioned above, the above example of arranging a shower tray is only possible if there is a hard and durable floor, such as concrete. In general, if it is planned to build a full-fledged washing room in the bathhouse, you should take care of this in advance, and at the stage make a concrete floor in the washing room. In the future, this will save you from possible problems arising during operation. wooden floors in damp areas.

Two installation options are possible shower drain:

1. Before pouring concrete for the base layer of the floor.
2. Directly on the finished floor.

In the first case, installation can be easily done hidden system sewerage system, that is, lay drainage pipes from the pan, passing through other rooms, below the level of the finished floor of the bathhouse.

When installing a pallet on a finished floor, it will not always be possible to hide sewer pipes if you maintain the recommended tilt angle of 3˚. For example, a drain pipe from a sump, laid in an adjacent room to a sewer riser, may be located above its floor. In any case, you should take this fact into account and decide for yourself what is best to do: hide the sewer pipes or lay them on top.

Procedure for installing a shower tray

In our example, the floor in the washing room was poured at the stage of constructing the foundation, taking into account the subsequent execution of the screed, when it will be done interior decoration baths This allows sewer pipes to be laid below floor level.

So let's begin.

1. We install the shower drain and drain pipes taking into account the thickness of the floor screed, the depth of the tray and the required height of the drain grate itself.
2. We lay roofing felt along the walls in two layers and make a screed of such thickness that after tiling the floor with ceramic tiles, the level of the clean floor will be maintained, on the one hand, and the top of the poured body of the shower drain is exactly at the level of the concrete screed, on the other.
3. We produce.
4. We install formwork from boards 40 mm thick and also lay roofing felt in two layers along the walls. For fastening we use nails, self-tapping screws, steel angles, bars and the like. It is important to securely fasten it so that when pouring concrete, the formwork does not change its original configuration.

   

5. We pour concrete inside the formwork, taking into account the fact that we will also have to make the enclosing walls of the pallet and tilt its bottom towards the drain hole of the drain.
6. The next day, when the poured concrete has not yet fully cured, we install additional formwork boards for pouring the enclosing walls. The thickness and height of the walls, as well as the overall dimensions of the finished pallet, are chosen purely for structural and design reasons.
7. We install the upper sealing sleeve in the drain and fill the walls with concrete mixture.
8. The next day, we remove the formwork and screed the bottom with an inclination towards the drain in the form of tetrahedral surfaces. The tilt is done approximately, since when tiling, all defects can be eliminated by changing the thickness of the tile adhesive layer.
9. After the concrete has completely cured, we trim the roofing material and treat all surfaces of the pallet with the universal primer “Ceresit CT 17” and waterproofing mastic “Ceresit CL 51”.
10. For better adhesion of the tile adhesive, we apply a layer of concrete contact on top of the waterproofing.
11. We cladding with ceramics using waterproof tile adhesive “Ceresit CM 9”, and seams are sealed with elastic water-repellent grout “Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic”.
12. The shower drain grate is adjusted to the tile by cutting the sealing sleeve to the required height.
13. When cladding the walls and floor in the area of ​​the pallet, we use the same materials.

And in addition, this is a video about installing a shower drain.

The stores have a huge selection of pallets from various materials, but the opinion of manufacturers may not always coincide with consumer opinion. In this case, you can always make a container for collecting water in the shower box yourself. However, for optimal results you need to know the rules of construction. Do you agree?

We will tell you how to properly make a tile tray for a shower stall. We'll tell you how to choose the shape and size homemade design, ideal for being equipped hygienic room. The construction is like this useful homemade product will allow you to simultaneously solve several important problems.

Any preparatory work begins with the acquisition of consumables and tools. Work goes faster and easier when everything is at hand, and you don’t have to constantly run to a specialized store for this or that.

So, to implement the project we cannot do without:

• Capacities, where we will mix concrete for screed, mortar for bricks and adhesive base for tiles.
• Short rule for screeds and trowels.
• Construction level.
• Trowel and spatulas– rubber and serrated for tile adhesive.
• Screwdriver- cross or straight, depending on the type of fastener heads with which the ladder is assembled, and a screwdriver, if you need to assemble the formwork and make spacers.
• Drills with mixer attachment, if you are too lazy to stir the solution manually.
• Grinders with a disc for ceramics, if you have to cut brick, and with a metal disk, if you have to cut metal mesh and fittings.
• Grouts.
• Mallets(rubber hammer).
• Brushes for applying mastic.

Surely, almost everything necessary is already in the owner’s arsenal, otherwise the missing tools will have to be either purchased or borrowed from relatives, friends or neighbors.

Diagram of the structure of a tile pallet in the internal section. In this version of the scheme there is no primary layer of waterproofing. Its presence is not so critical if the owner lives in his own house, otherwise it is better to play it safe

What else is needed for the job?

When all necessary tools For work, the parts for the work have already been assembled and a diagram of the future pallet has been drawn, you can begin purchasing construction and consumables.

So, during construction you cannot do without:

• Ladder or .
• Bricks. In the case of solid concrete pouring, it will be necessary to stock up on formwork boards. In the case of constructing the side of the pallet in the shape of an ideal quarter circle, it is better to make the formwork from fiberboard.
• Mayakov.
• and a roller for applying it.
• Bitumen, roofing felt or dense polyethylene film - depending on preference.
• – if insulation is required.
• Sand and cement M400, or universal mixture M150, or M200.
• Plasticizers and hydrophobic moisture-repellent additives
• Metal mesh for reinforcing the screed, if its width does not exceed 10 cm.
• Reinforcement if the side is reinforced concrete and not brick.
• Waterproof tile adhesive and cross stitches.
• Tile or mosaic tiles, necessarily non-slip varieties.

When everything is ready, you can safely begin building the shower tray.

Step-by-step instructions on how to construct a pallet

If the bathroom has a concrete floor, as is the case with apartment buildings, or already available concrete screed, This is good. You can immediately begin constructing the sides and waterproofing, having first thoroughly cleaned the surface.

If the base is not ideal, there was previously a wooden floor, etc., before the actual construction of the structure, you should definitely fill the screed.

Stage #1 – surface preparation

Suitable for making screed mixture ordinary solution made from cement M400 and mixed in a ratio of 2 parts sand to 1 part cement.

In order not to bother with measuring the ingredients for the solution, you can simply purchase a universal mixture M150 or M200.

A drainage outlet must be made before pouring the base, otherwise you will have to crumble the poured concrete pad with a hammer drill to correct your mistake made due to forgetfulness. In this case, this is not critical, since the ladder is mounted directly on the floor screed. But if an additional base is poured, forgetfulness can backfire

Stir with a drill with a mixing attachment in the right proportions marked on the bag, and the solution is ready.

Actions should be performed in the following order:

1. Making layering for in advance, so that later you don’t have to crumble a new one concrete slab perforator.
2. We set up the formwork shape and size of the future pallet, not forgetting that its future sides will also be located on this pallet. Therefore, when marking, it is worth keeping in mind the thickness of the tile and the thickness of the tile adhesive layer (from the front and outside, and therefore double) and the width of the brick. If the screed will be poured around the entire perimeter of the bathroom, for example, in the case of installing a heated floor or a major renovation of the floors, formwork will not be required. The sides of the pallet can be initially erected on the screed.
3. If the base is 7 cm wide, install metal mesh at a height of 3 cm above the floor. If the screed is wider than 10 cm, reinforcement will not be needed. The slab will still be of excellent strength.
4. Preparing the mixture according to given proportions. In the case of expanded clay concrete, expanded clay is added to the mixture at a rate of 1×1, that is, per bucket of mortar – bucket of expanded clay.
5. Co inside formwork and on walls put level marks at the height of the future screed.
6. Filling the screed. We level with a small rule, a trowel or a trowel.

Now we wait until the screed sets and dries. It will be possible to return to the continuation of work no earlier than on the third day after pouring the screed.

In the case of an all-concrete mixture, the weight of a poured rough slab measuring 90x90 cm and height 10 cm will be at least 180 kg. Therefore, for residents multi-storey buildings It would be best to dilute the concrete with expanded clay. A slab made of expanded clay concrete will be 4 times lighter.

Stage #2 - waterproofing and installation of the ladder

Waterproofing can be of two options - roofing felt or polyethylene film. Some prefer to completely fill or coat with bitumen.

The effect of any of the selected materials in the case of a shower stall for private apartments and houses will be excellent.

We install the drain drain. In order to ensure good drain the drain funnel itself should be slightly higher to ensure a slope of the drain pipe of at least 3 degrees

If you need to insulate a future pallet, now is the time to do it. Let’s immediately make a reservation that choosing polystyrene foam is solid, and it is advisable to lay it immediately on rough screed along the perimeter of the side.

In the case of insulation, it can be partially recessed into expanded polystyrene. Having taken this point into account, we now boldly undertake the installation of the selected and prepared ladder. All parts of which must be assembled perfectly.

The upper edges of the ladder funnel must be clearly adjusted to the level. And to prevent it from deviating in the future, it is best to fix it on alabaster

If, when installing the ladder, you did something somewhere or assembled it incorrectly, then in order to fix the problem, you will have to “unscrew” the entire pallet with a hammer drill, and the ladder will most likely have to be thrown out and a new one installed.

Stage #3 – erection of sides

It is best to erect the sides immediately after the poured cushion has hardened and the ladder has been installed. In the future, they will serve as a natural boundary for waterproofing and insulation, as well as formwork for the main screed.

Now let's do the calculation. We calculate how high the side of 1 brick laid on the side edge will be:

• layer of mortar above the rough screed (under the brick) - 5 mm;
• the brick itself is 120 mm;
• layer of tile adhesive – 5 mm;
• tiles – 3-5 mm.

It turns out that the height of the brick side will be 135 mm, at the maximum value.

The brick side must be strictly verified. The markings must be drawn at right angles both in relation to the side to the side and in relation to the side to the wall. In this case, the vertical is determined using a hydraulic level, but a regular level will do.

But we need to take into account that on the inside of the booth we still have to lay:

• waterproofing layer– 1-2 mm, if it is mastic and roofing felt;
• insulation– 50 mm, if it is polystyrene foam;
• screed– from 4 to 10 cm, depending on height drain device ladder;
• layer of tile adhesive– 5 mm;
• tiles– 3-5 mm.

Then interior design The pallet will have a maximum height of 82 mm. Now we subtract 82 from 135 mm, we get 53 mm. This is the height of the side that should be relative to the inner finishing surface of the pallet. In fact, this height is slightly larger than a matchbox.

If it seems small to someone, you will have to, armed with a grinder, cut off the blocks from the bricks required sizes and lay them on top of solid brick. In the calculations, it should be taken into account that in this case another layer of mortar will be added to the size of the cut block.

The side is erected in strict accordance with the drawn lines, vertical and horizontal level, as with conventional masonry. It is advisable to use red, moisture-resistant brick. If you want to make the pallet higher, you will have to make a second level of masonry

In order to start laying a brick side, you should prepare a mixture of water, cement and sand in a ratio of 1:1:3 with the addition of plasticizers and hydrophobic additives.

It is better to use red brick M-125. It has the highest moisture resistance of all varieties. When laying, it is advisable to use a special reinforced mesh.

Upon completion of the masonry, in order to proceed to further stages, you will have to wait a couple of days until the mortar completely sets and dries.

Stage #4 - pouring the main screed

When pouring the screed, pay attention to the fact that the upper grate of the drain will have to be located above it at the height of the layer of glue and tiles.

This reserve is made so that in the future, when laying tiles, the drain grate can reach “zero” or slightly lower, depending on design features the ladder itself. After erection of the main screed in front of next steps you will have to wait again until the concrete hardens.

It is better to fill the main screed using pre-set beacons installed at a barely noticeable slope towards the drain. The drain funnel after pouring concrete should rise above the screed

Stage #5 – re-waterproofing

Repeated waterproofing should not be neglected. By spending money and time on purchasing and applying waterproofing mastic, you will protect yourself from leaks and moisture accumulation in structural elements.

This means that your neighbors from below will not complain about you, whom you constantly flood, and you yourself will be spared from eternal dampness and the appearance of fungus in the bathroom.

After applying mastic over the entire surface of the screed, along the internal and upper parts sides, again you should wait until it dries. Only after complete hardening can you begin laying tiles or tiled mosaics.

A layer of waterproofing on top of the main screed is required. It can also be applied using a roller, but in this case the surface to be treated is not so extensive, so a brush is also suitable, with which, moreover, you can coat the corners more thoroughly

Stage #6 – tiling with ceramic tiles

Any options will look great, but those where the side is tiled and the inside of the pallet is tiled mosaic are especially impressive. In any case, everything depends on the choice of the owner.

So, in case facing works the actions look like this:

1. We prepare the adhesive mixture based on the proportions and consistency specified in the instructions for the purchased type of tile adhesive. Some manufacturers produce glue that can set very quickly, so you shouldn’t mix a whole bucket at once. At first, especially if you have never done this before, you should try making batches in small batches.
2. If you are faced with laying tiles for the first time, then know that this is not as difficult a job as experienced “tilers” and “tilers” like to talk about it. The main thing is patience and accuracy. The very first thing you need to know is finishing should always start from one of the corners. We scoop up the glue with a notched trowel, apply it to the back of the tile, apply it to the pallet from the corner, and press.
3. Each tile must be checked for level. In the case of a slightly inclined bottom, the horizontal level itself is not so critical. The main thing here is that all the tiles are in the same plane. A rubber mallet is used for leveling. For perfect evenness of laying the tiles, use special crosses located between the tiles at the corners. Each tile should fit snugly against the inserted sides of the crosses.
4. If the tiles at the edges do not fit in size, you will have to cut them with a grinder equipped with a ceramic wheel.
5. Upon completion of laying the cladding the next day, you should remove the crosses, clean the seams from excess glue and grout with a specially prepared grout mixture using a rubber spatula. Afterwards, excess grout is removed from the joints using a slightly damp sponge.
6. It is advisable to seal the joints where the plane of the pallet meets the walls and sides, as well as the corners of the sides, with a transparent sealant.
7. Only after the grout and sealant have completely hardened is it recommended to wash the laid tiles.

Often craftsmen prefer to apply glue directly to the surface rather than to the tile itself. You can try this and that. Whatever you like more and whatever is more convenient for you, do so. But do not forget that there should be enough glue under the tile so that there is no empty space under it that is not filled glue mixture.

Laying mosaic tiles is not much different from laying traditional tiles. The glue is applied to the base here. The mosaic itself is smoothed out in exact accordance with the specified level

Stage #7 – hardening and drying

It is advisable to start installing the fence and taking a shower only after the newly made pallet has thoroughly set and, as they say, “reaches”.

To speed up this process, ensure the bathroom temperature is between 25-30 °C, good air circulation and lack of humidity. It is advisable to keep doors in the room open. In a day or two it will be possible to install the fence and wash.

Upon completion of the troweling work, all surfaces are thoroughly washed from the remains of building materials and, after drying for a day, the newly made pallet is ready for use.

Features of the construction of sides

If it has been decided to build a pallet with a solid reinforced concrete side in the shape of a quarter circle, then it is worth taking into account some features.

In this case, the construction of the sides begins with the stage of pouring a rough screed under the future pallet. It will be necessary to initially make high formwork for it, so that it will later serve as a outside formwork for the side.

A do-it-yourself round shower tray with tile trim will be less dangerous because it will not have protruding corners, and will also make the shower stall more compact and aesthetically pleasing.

Immediately after pouring and leveling the base, 4-5 sections of reinforcement with a section of 10 should be sealed into its edges along the perimeter. These will be the ribs for the longitudinal reinforcement of the side.

So that you don’t have to cut them off with a grinder later, adjusting them in height, it is better to initially cut them slightly less than the height of the future side. Its height can be calculated in the same way as in the case of a brick side.

The formwork is best made from fiberboard. Hardboard bends perfectly, and reinforced with supports and spacers will be as strong as a board. It is best to make corners of bars under it as stops, which will provide the future side with a stable vertical level.

After the screed has hardened, a couple of rows of 8-piece reinforcement should be tied onto the reinforcement bars that have frozen along the perimeter of the base. This can be a solid circle, bent according to the required parameters, reinforcement, or pieces with which it is necessary to tie the vertically protruding reinforcement rods longitudinally with knitting wire.

Afterwards, the inner wall of the side formwork is constructed from fiberboard using spacers, after which it can be poured.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The entire process of constructing a shower tray is presented in the following video:

As you can see, the construction process is not particularly complicated. The main thing is to develop a project and take the time to bring it to fruition. Well, the tools. If you have them at home or can borrow them from a neighbor, in a word, you won’t have to spend money on buying them.

The entire construction of the pallet will cost the owner several times less than the cost of the same acrylic tray dubious production, which, most likely, will have to be thrown into the trash in a year and a half.

The resulting shower tray with tile trim, made with your own hands, and even if slightly imperfect in some ways, will always faithfully serve not for years, but for decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Ask questions and post photos related to the topic of the article. Tell us about how you built the shower tray yourself with my own hands or anyone you know.

Shower cabins are popular. They are placed in the bathroom, toilet or any room where you can connect to the water supply and sewer. Ready-made structures available for sale, in addition to a regular shower, are equipped with additional functions: hydromassage, steam bath, aromatization of air. You can build a cozy cabin for water procedures, equipped with plumbing if desired, by yourself if you build a shower tray with your own hands. Read a detailed article about selection and installation in our separate article, all processes are discussed in detail, read and write your comments.

Showers are equipped in three ways:

• buy a ready-made container and install it on legs or a pedestal;
• a concrete podium is made on the floor with a water drain, lined with ceramic or polymer tiles, mosaics;
• before the start of construction, provide more low level floor in the bathtub so that the bowl of the tray is located with it on the same horizontal mark.

The first two options are more suitable for apartments. Additional filling of the floor over the entire area of ​​the bathtub is impractical. The load on the floor increases and a step is formed at the entrance to the room.

When building private houses, you can draw up a project that includes laying sewer pipes below the bathroom floor level. This way the shower tray will not protrude to the surface and create a barrier.

Factory containers are made from stainless steel, coated metal, acrylic, polyurethane foam, and ceramics. By individual orders manufacture exclusive products from cast marble, artificial stone, characterized by massiveness.

Ready-made polystyrene pallet

Installation of standard pallets does not require specific knowledge and skills. The light weight of the containers allows you to install them yourself or with an assistant. Some designs are simply placed on the floor. Their shape is designed so that the drain can be easily connected through the outlet pipe to the sewer. If supports are not provided, brick, blocks or stone are laid around the perimeter, welded ones are used metal frames. The outside is lined with finishing materials or a screen is attached.

The main task when installing any shower tray is correct connection to the sewer. The drain ladder or siphon should be located at the lowest point of the container. This ensures free flow of water through inclined plane bowls.

To connect a shower tray with your own hands to a sewer branch, create a slope of the outlet pipe of at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The angle of contact with the collector should not exceed 45°. With these parameters, the risk of contamination by solid particles is minimal, and cleaning manually or using a cable is not difficult.

If the pan is mounted on legs or stands, and access to the sewer is free, the drain is equipped with a regular siphon. It is inexpensive, but repairs require disassembling the device. Minimum height release - 100 mm. If the bowl is monolithic, and it is not possible to penetrate under it, it is optimal to install a ladder.

Shower drains

The drains ensure the collection and removal of wastewater and prevent the penetration of odors from the sewer into the room. They differ from a siphon in the ability to disassemble and clean without dismantling the device. Some designs are equipped with a check valve that prevents waste from returning when the collector pipe becomes clogged.

The design of a plumbing device is more complex than that of a siphon. Consists of several parts:

• housings;
• neck;
• water seal;
• insulating collar;
• clamping flange;
• grilles that protect against large debris.

Water flows through the drain at a speed of 40-90 l/min, clearing large particles or hair. The removable glass can be easily pulled out and dirt removed.

Types of ladders

The water seal is made in two versions - “dry” without water or “wet” with liquid. Some ladders are equipped with two barriers at once. To connect to sewer network The device is equipped with a drain pipe.

To equip a shower tray with your own hands, the drain is selected according to the following characteristics:

• Device height. When connected to a pipe, this parameter is used to calculate the required slope of the drain to the sewer.
• Number of pins. If the shower is the last in a row of plumbing fixtures, it is connected to the line with one outlet pipe. With an intermediate arrangement - two.
• Availability check valve. It is desirable that the ladder has protection against flooding sewage water V emergency situations. Especially if the tray is located below floor level, or the shower room is in the basement.
• Decorative. The visible part of the ladder is the grate. Its function is to protect the device from clogging. However, it can decorate the shower tray. There are many options. Manufacturers even produce completely invisible designs that create the effect of water that has disappeared “to nowhere.”

To equip showers, standard drains are used that collect water at one point, or trays extended along the tray. Such devices are characterized by high throughput.

Built-in pallet designs

Depending on their location relative to the floor level, shower trays can be barrier-free or raised. The flat bowl is very convenient for the elderly or people with disabilities. When installing such a structure, you should provide a connection to the sewer in advance so as not to increase the height of the floor in the bathroom.

Barrier-free pallet

The raised pedestal is made of brick or monolithic concrete, having previously installed plumbing equipment. The ladder and outlet pipe are laid inside the structure.

The construction of monolithic pallets requires mandatory waterproofing and insulation of the bowl. For this purpose, coating or penetrating agents are used, roll materials, membranes.

Important. The container must be sealed to avoid leakage to the floors below.

The structure is usually insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. It is not afraid of moisture, is waterproof, and has low thermal conductivity. Material with a density of more than 35 kg/m³ can withstand the weight of screed and finishing.

To construct podiums with a lifting height of 10 cm or more, use:

• Expanded clay concrete. It is heavier than polymer insulation; the mass of a platform measuring 90x90x20 cm is more than 250 kg. When dried, the weight decreases by 3-4 times. To continue work, you need to wait several days for the monolithic mixture to harden.
• Aerated concrete blocks. Lightweight, but prone to damage under load. The masonry is reinforced with meshes at two levels - along the floor surface and at the top of the structure.
• Ceramic red brick. More waterproof and warmer than silicate. Place them on the bottom of the pallet in 1-3 rows, leaving channels for sewer pipes, and form sides.

To increase the comfort of water procedures, the tray is heated. To do this, a warm floor made of cable mats is laid in the screed.

Pallet on a pedestal

The bowl is lined with ceramic or polymer tiles, mosaics and porcelain tiles are glued on. The finishing with natural pebbles, natural or artificial stone looks impressive.

Important. Laying must ensure the tightness of the coating. Use waterproof glue and carefully rub the seams.

How to make a pallet with your own hands - stages of work

The technology for making a shower tray with your own hands includes:

• preparation and marking of the base;
• installation of a drain ladder and outlet pipe;
• installation of formwork or laying bricks and blocks;
• thermal and waterproofing device;
• filling the screed;
• finishing.

Waterproofing is carried out in 2 stages - the floors under the pedestal are covered with a double layer of mastic and a thick film is laid out over the insulation.

Pallet sizes are not standardized. It is believed that minimum dimensions providing ergonomics of space - 80x80 cm. Form a bowl in the form of a square, rectangle, corner or complex figure. It is for the freedom of choice that hand-made designs are valued.

Preparatory work

Before making a shower tray from brick or concrete, perform necessary measurements, calculations and drawing. This will help to avoid mistakes when laying communications, leading to frequent blockages and stagnation of water.

Most often, shower trays are located in a bathroom, bathhouse or sauna. Prepare the surfaces - remove the old finish, level it, prime it. To accurately determine the height of the ladder above the floor level, points for connecting to the sewer are drawn. A slope of 2-3 cm per meter of communications must be maintained. It is advisable to install the pipe in a straight line, without turns, with connection to the collector at an angle of no more than 30°. The diameter of the outlet is 50 mm.

Connecting the drain to the sewer pipe

To more accurately regulate the position of the drain, it is recommended to fill in the rough screed. Some plumbing fixtures are anchored to the floor and adjusted using special screws.

Marking is carried out using a bubble or laser level. Mark on the wall with a pencil the height of the drain neck, corresponding to the lowest point on the cladding surface.

To determine the size of the sides, the tiles are laid out on the floor. Make the necessary calculations to lay as many whole elements as possible without cutting.

Ladder installation

The most successful placement of the ladder is in the corner. There it is less subject to stress when a person moves, and the sealing gaskets last longer. Plumbing device install strictly horizontally, controlling the position with a level.

Mounted on stands made of bricks or blocks. Fill the cavity with the solution and leave until it hardens for a day.

The upper opening of the ladder is covered to prevent construction debris from entering. To prevent the drain from moving, a restrictor is placed under it, for example, a section of sewer pipe.

Installation of formwork

After aligning the ladder, the vertical dimensions of the pallet are finally marked. They install formwork from boards, plywood, drywall scraps, or lay out a brick wall.

Construction of a podium made of brick or concrete

If the size of the podium exceeds 20-25 cm, its weight can be reduced by arranging puff preparation. To do this, several schemes are used (starting from the base floor level):

• base waterproofing + expanded clay concrete 100 mm thick + polystyrene foam insulation 50 mm + waterproofing + floor leveler or mortar 100 mm;
• primer + insulation 100 mm + waterproofing + leveler or concrete 100 mm;
• expanded clay concrete 100 mm + waterproofing + leveler 100 mm.

In the latter option, a damper tape is laid along the walls.

bottom layer

The base is carefully treated with waterproofing mastic, extending onto the wall to a height equal to the thickness of the concrete pad plus 20 cm. Where water can enter, leaky areas must not be left.

Prepare a mixture of cement, sand, expanded clay and water in a ratio of 1/3/5/1. It is poured into the formwork to a thickness of 10 cm. A damper tape is first laid along the walls, the formwork is secured with supports, and the joints are sealed to avoid leakage of the cement “milk.” You can pour dry granules and fill them with liquid solution. The concrete must harden before laying the insulation.

If the base is made of brick, plasticizers are added to the masonry mortar to increase the hydrophobic properties of the mixture. A reinforcing mesh with a 10x10 cm cell is laid on the floor. The finishing screed is also reinforced with reinforcement.

DIY brick pallet

Installation of thermal insulation

Holes are cut out in the expanded polystyrene slabs for the sewerage inlet and the drain body. The insulation is laid on a concrete pad, the joints are filled with sealant.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is 50 mm. If the tray is to be heated, lay out the thermomats on the surface and secure them with plastic clips to the insulation boards. Thick sheets are spread over polystyrene foam. plastic film 200 microns thick with outlet on the wall. Now you can pour the finishing screed.

Screed and tiling

Concrete or leveler is made with a minimum amount of water to obtain a semi-dry mass. Lay the layer to the level of the bottom of the tile, which was previously marked on the wall.

A slope towards the ladder can be created using special beacon profiles with inclined edges. If they are not there, set the angle building level. To check the correct installation, use the following technique: a small children's ball should roll to the lowest point of the pan towards the drain.

The cladding is glued with waterproof compounds. Before you make a shower tray from tiles, you need to consider all the options for installing a drain. Choose a position for the protective grille in which you can carefully bypass it and reduce the number of cuts in the finishing material. Joints and junctions are carefully filled acrylic sealant. Hydrophobic compounds are used for grouting joints. After laying the tiles on the floor, the walls are tiled, partitions are installed or curtains are hung.