If not so long ago, work on the installation of electrical equipment in residential buildings could only be carried out if there was a project approved by the relevant authorities, but today, thanks to the decree of the Russian government on the abolition of outdated requirements for owners of houses and cottages, everything has become much simpler. Now electrical wiring in a bathhouse can be installed without a design or approvals. But at the same time, the main condition must be fulfilled - the installation is carried out taking into account the requirements of the PUE and other regulations, deviations are prohibited and can serve as a basis for refusing to connect the object to electrical networks.

The latest standards DBN V.2.5-2003 and DNAOP 0.00-1.32-01 prohibit the use of two-core cables for wiring (except for switches); now they must only be three-core with phase, zero working and zero protective copper wires. This applies to single-phase electrical wiring, three-phase ones are almost never used in baths and therefore will not be mentioned in this article.

DBN V.2.5-2003. PDF download

DNAOP 0.00-1.32-01. State regulations on labor protection. PDF download

Which ones exist? General requirements to the wiring in the bathhouse?

1. The placement of lamps, switches and sockets should be carried out by zones, the breakdown is based on the requirements of GOST R 50571.12-96. In the first zone, it is strictly prohibited not only to install any electrical equipment, but also to lay cable lines. Furnaces for space heating are built here, washbasins, showers, etc. are installed. The second zone is the safest in terms of operating conditions for the equipment; it has the fewest restrictions and additional requirements. In the third and fourth zones it is allowed to lay cables with an insulation resistance of at least +170°C.

   

   

2. To install electrical wiring in bathhouses, it is strictly forbidden to use universal flat wires (PUNP).

   

   The fact is that state standards have not yet been developed for these wires; each enterprise has the right to use its own technical specifications(THAT). As an objective market analysis shows, all PUNP wires according to specifications to one degree or another do not meet the requirements of GOST 22483-77, which regulates electrical resistance current-carrying conductor. The number of fires caused by these cables exceeds 65% of all emergencies caused by electrical equipment.

   

3. , it is also advisable to install the light switch in the vestibule or recreation area.

   

   

GOST R 50571.12-96. PDF download

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PUNP cable

Step-by-step instructions for installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse

For example, we will consider the most difficult option, it can be significantly simplified taking into account the characteristics of baths and the requirements of developers.

Step 1. Connecting the input cable (power cable). It is fed into the panel from above and connected to the input machine. Cut-off parameters are calculated separately taking into account the total power of consumers. Specific tips are given later in this article. Blue and gray wires are connected to the input of the machine, yellow-green to the ground bus.

Connecting the power cable. We install gray and blue wires onto the upper terminals of the input difavtomat. And the yellow-green wire goes to the grounding bar.

Step 2. If the panel has additional cut-offs for individual rooms or groups of consumers, then supply power to them. Standard position – entry from above, exit from below.

Electrical panel and wires coming from it in plastic boxes

Practical advice. In dry rooms it is better to install wiring in ordinary plastic boxes; in wet rooms it is recommended to protect them polymer pipes. This is not a categorical requirement of the standards, but recommendations from experienced electricians.

Step 3. Wire lighting and outlets in the washroom.

Please keep in mind that the degree of protection of enclosures from moisture and dust must correspond to international standard at least IP 44 in zones 2 and 3. This housing protects against the penetration of solid particles larger than one millimeter in size and does not allow leaks from drops falling on the surface at any angle.

You can do the wiring using a VVGng 3×1.5 cable, stretch it to the junction box.

Connection diagram for VVGng 3×1.5 cable. The cable will be stretched to the junction box. The veins are marked

Place the two-core cable VVGng 2×1.5 into the switch, one core is connected to the upper terminal of the device, and the second to the bottom.

Cable VVGng 2×1.5 is lowered to single-key switch. One core is connected from above, the other from below. The cores are marked L and Llight

Thus in one position of the button electrical circuit breaks, and in the second it connects and the light bulb lights up. Before installing the switch, carefully inspect the housing; it indicates the position of the button when closing and opening the contacts. According to the standard, the light should turn on when the switch button is in the upper position. Another nuance is that a phase is always connected to the switch, not zero. This makes it possible to safely change lighting fixtures in the event of their failure without turning off the general circuit breaker.

The VVGng 3x1.5 cable is being laid to the installation site of the proposed luminaire. The veins are marked

Step 4. Run the cable from the box to the lamp; drill a hole in the wall and insert a piece of tube into it. It is recommended to fill the free space between the wires and the walls of the pipe with a special non-flammable composition.

A metal sleeve is inserted into the hole

Important. All places where cables pass to other rooms must be made only in a metal pipe; it completely eliminates mechanical damage to the cables.

In the box, connect the ends of the cables of the same color. It is important to know that not all manufacturers maintain standard cable colors; if this is your case, it is recommended to mark them during installation. This can be done using small stickers or colored markers.

If the lighting has its own circuit breaker, then last stage When installing the wiring, you need to connect it to the power supply and its terminals.

In the distribution board we connect the gray core of the cable to the lower terminal of the circuit breaker. The blue wire to the zero busbar. Yellow-green to the grounding bus

Please note that install distribution boxes, switches and sockets in the steam room are strictly prohibited. This fittings are installed at the entrance to the room.

Step 5. It is better to use low-voltage lighting in the steam room, although this is not a mandatory requirement. 220 V lighting devices must have a special protected housing.

For low-voltage lighting, you need to install a step-down transformer and supply power to the light bulbs from it. The technical parameters of transformers should be selected taking into account the required output voltage and the total power of all consumers.

To reduce the voltage, a step-down transformer is used, which is selected in accordance with the required output voltage and the power of the connected lighting devices

Remember that it is very difficult for a transformer to operate at the limit; under such operating conditions it quickly fails. Always buy equipment with a power reserve; this approach increases the reliability and duration of operation of the devices.

Run a two-core cable from the transformer to the box, and insert the cables from the light bulbs and switch into it.

Laying a two-core cable to the junction box

Wire connection diagram in the junction box. The veins are stripped and marked. Next, the cable is lowered to the switch

Important. Lighting into the steam room is carried out only using a special heat-resistant cable; such requirements are specified in the current regulations.

Laying a heat-resistant PRKS cable to the intended installation location of the luminaire. The sleeve must be filled with a fireproof compound

Step 6. Installation of sockets. For them, you can also provide a separate machine in the distribution panel. It is allowed to install sockets only in zones 2 and 3; the housings must have protection of at least IP 44.

Installation of sockets and distribution boxes in the washing room is allowed only in zones 2 and 3

A VVG 3×1.5 cable is laid from the distribution panel to the first distribution box.

Further from it, the wire is fed to all the others; each room must have its own distribution box (Berman box). From the box, the wires are laid to the sockets, their ends are stripped and connected to the appropriate terminals.

After connecting, cover the outlet with the front panel.

Step 7 Connect all cable ends of the same color or with the same markings in the distribution boxes using terminal blocks.

Using terminal blocks instead of twisting is safer and more convenient

Important. If there are powerful electrical appliances, their technical specifications may affect the cable cross-section. Carefully check the developed tables of the dependence of cable cross-section on current strength.

If the wires are located near electric furnaces, they must be protected with a metal pipe. But at the first opportunity, use other, more safe ways connecting powerful thermal appliances.

Some modern heating elements have a system automatic control and protection, the connection of these devices should be made taking into account the attached manufacturer's instructions.

Connecting the controller for the oven (temperature sensor)

Thermostat connection diagram. Terminals 1 and 2

Thermostat connection diagram. Terminals 3 and 4

Temperature sensor connection diagram. Terminals 6 and 7

The cores of the VVGng 4x1.5 cable are connected to the corresponding screw terminals. Lived Brown to the terminal marked L. Blue to terminal N. Gray - A1. Black - A2.

The lower terminals of the difavtomat are connected to two wires per terminal. One pair of wires is used to connect to the starter. The second pair is used to connect to screw terminals L and N. The gray and blue insulated cores of the three-core VVGng cable, intended for powering the electric heater, are connected to the starter, and the yellow-green core is connected to the grounding bus

Wiring diagram in the steam room and dressing room

After completing the installation, you need to charmingly ring the wiring and check the correctness and reliability of all connections

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electrical panels

What electrical equipment can be in the bathhouse?

Energy networks issue, according to a simplified scheme, permission to connect no more than 15 kW per site; it is advisable to provide for the total power of consumers of electrical energy in the bathhouse and residential building in such a way that it does not exceed the specified limit. Otherwise you will have to get special permission, but it is not always given. It is imperative that you order a project from specialized organizations that takes into account the existing reserve capacities of transformers, the parameters of installed lines, etc. Such work takes a lot of time and money, and the results are often unpredictable. As for single-phase or three-phase wiring, things are still much more complicated. Before making a final decision, it is recommended to visit the distribution zone and consult with responsible representatives of the organization.

What cables to use for wiring in the bathhouse

The diameter of the cables is selected based on the possible maximum power; there are special tables for this. For single-phase input, the wiring is done with a 2×16 SIP cable, for a three-phase SIP 4×16. Experienced electricians advise not to skimp on the cross-section of conductors; the difference in cost is insignificant, but there can be many problems.

1. No one can ever accurately predict the total power of current consumers over the long term. Such situations cause overloading of the wiring and can cause fires.
2. Cables should only be from well-known and trusted manufacturers. Non-certified products do not withstand the same cross-section of wires along the entire length; it fluctuates between 20–30% and only downwards. This means that if the cross section is indicated, for example, 10 mm 2, then in fact you should focus on 8 mm 2.

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SIP cable

Video - About cables for baths

How many machines are required for a bathhouse?

A very complex and very simple question at the same time. From an electrician's point of view, more is better. This is their profit, they are trying by every possible means to increase it. The craftsmen will assure developers that protective electrical fittings are required for each room in the bathhouse, separately for sockets and all powerful consumers. From large quantity There is no harm in RAM, just as there is no benefit. In practice, it is enough to install one circuit breaker at the input; it is triggered when the rated load is exceeded or when a short circuit occurs. There is no need to protect each room and outlet separately. It should be understood that each connection also has its negative sides - due to poor-quality connection of the ends, the connection points heat up. And this can cause wiring malfunctions or fires in the bathhouse.

What is the best way to connect a bathhouse: underground or overhead cable?

There is no specific advice for all cases; each method has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Connection type	Technical and operational features
	Cables are used for aerial connection; the protection is made of special plastics resistant to hard ultraviolet radiation. Can withstand significant temperature changes, differ high performance physical strength. The cheapest and simplest type of connecting a bathhouse to the network, its reliability fully complies with existing requirements. The only drawback is that not all developers like electrical wires hanging over the site.
	A very expensive and complex method. For installation you need to purchase a special underground cable with an armored shell, a layer of sand is provided in the trenches to compensate for seasonal swelling of the soil during freezing/unfreezing. Digging trenches often has to be done by hand, which is difficult and time-consuming. In addition, if the site has already completed landscape design, then after filling the trenches it will be necessary to restore its original condition.

As can be seen from the table, many individual factors influence decisions, all of which should be taken into account.

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Sauna is the Finnish name for our bathhouse. In Russia and other countries, any steam room with dry steam is considered a sauna. But this is a mistaken opinion. The Finns don't understand this kind of sauna. However, as a rule, a bathhouse and a sauna are practically twin brothers. Both here and there they wave birch brooms, and here and there they add steam, pouring water from a ladle onto the heater.

The usual temperature in a sauna ranges from 70 to 110 degrees. In Finland, there are no less than 2 million saunas per 5 million population. In Russia, saunas are also very popular. Warming up in a sauna leads to improvement functional state systems and organs of the body, promotes the development of compensatory and protective mechanisms, improves metabolism, calms nervous system, increases mental activity and activates vigor. This is due to the beneficial effects of sweating and heat on the respiratory, cardiovascular, endocrine and thermoregulatory systems of most people.

To prevent a trip to the sauna from being marred by troubles, the electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna must be installed very carefully and correctly. To ensure that the electrical wiring in the bathhouse with your own hands is efficient and of high quality, listen to our recommendations.

Saunas are fire-hazardous objects containing many harmful factors for electrical wiring, and, accordingly, for the life and health of people, as well as the integrity of the sauna itself. Therefore, if possible, use the help of professionals to install electrical wiring in the sauna. If for some reason you decide that installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse is quite feasible for you, pay close attention to fire safety requirements.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse should be designed taking into account high humidity and high temperature. If your sauna is built of wood, then the installation of wiring in the bath should be of the highest quality and responsible due to the likelihood of fire. In sauna rooms that are not rooms with high temperature and humidity, it is recommended to lay the VVGng-LS cable (for connecting sockets and cable for connecting lighting). The insulation of this sauna cable is flame retardant and has low level smoke during smoldering. Wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is preferably in flame-retardant cable ducts. In those rooms where the temperature rises to high values, you need a cable (wire) that does not collapse at such temperatures. You can install wiring in a bathhouse in a corrugated pipe or cable duct, inside of which single wires of the brands PMTK, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS are located. These wires can easily withstand temperatures of 170°C. Electrical wiring in the bath/sauna should not have metal sheaths or pipes.
Naturally, after installation it is necessary to check the sauna cable for the integrity of the insulation.

The entire electrical wiring process can be divided into stages:
1. cable entry into the sauna/bath
2. installing a shield in the sauna/bath
3. cable routing from the panel in the bathhouse/sauna
4. connecting lamps in the bath/sauna
5. connecting sockets in the bathhouse/sauna
6. connecting an electric furnace in a bathhouse/sauna

Cable entry into the sauna/bath

Our sauna can be located both outside the home and in a residential area. If the sauna is located outside the building, then we will need to lay a power cable to the sauna building from the main distribution board.
The simplest and least labor-intensive way is overhead line. If there is a significant distance between the input panel and the sauna building, additional supports. It is recommended to use a self-supporting insulated self-supporting insulated cable. No cable is required for its installation; it is quite durable, strong and not afraid of ultraviolet radiation. We recommend that the entry into buildings be carried out in an insulating pipe through the wall.
The cable can be inserted into the sauna and into the ground, but this is more difficult. Underground entry into a house is much more expensive both in terms of installation and materials. Although it also has its advantages. This is primarily the design of the site itself; there are no hanging wires. This power supply, like all work related to the power supply of a building (house, cottage, cottage, plot), has certain installation rules. When entering underground, the cable is laid in the ground at a depth of 70 cm. For laying, it is customary to use armored cable with copper conductors. It is allowed to lay an unarmored cable at a depth of half a meter if it is reliably protected from damage by pipes, for example. It is advisable to sprinkle fine river sand or soft soil, then place the cable and, having filled in 20 cm of soil, mark the location of the cable with signal tape or bricks. This will protect the cable from damage when earthworks ah on the territory. After tape or brick, add soil to ground level. The cable must be introduced into the building in an insulating pipe. Laying cables under building foundations is not permitted. Underground input is preferable from an aesthetic point of view.
If the sauna is located in a residential building, then input is much easier. The cable can be inserted into the sauna panel openly in boxes and corrugated tubes, or hidden under a layer of plaster.
As mentioned above, a bathhouse is a place with high humidity and elevated temperature. Therefore, do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse should be done taking these factors into account.

Installation of a shield in a sauna/bath

The distribution panel in the sauna serves to transfer energy to consumers. Since the entire sauna energy system will be powered from the shield, its condition and proper functioning operational reliability and health safety will depend. So that the electrical wiring in a bathhouse built with your own hands is durable, great importance You need to pay attention to connecting the electrical panel.
The location for the shield must be chosen carefully. Firstly, there must be free access to it, which in no case should be cluttered. Secondly, the shield should not be placed in a poorly ventilated place. Thirdly, the shield should not be placed in fire hazardous areas with high temperatures (for example, a steam room).
Fourthly, it is desirable that the electrical panel be illuminated by a natural light source, which is important when working with the meter (if it is important to know the amount of energy consumed by the sauna) when the voltage is turned off. Usually the shield is located in the presence of a vestibule in it, or in a rest room. As a rule, the panel consists of input and output circuit breakers and RCDs (residual current devices). Hang the shield in such a way that it top part was located at a height of 1.4-1.8 m.
If the wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is single-phase, the power cable must consist of at least three cores. According to the latest GOST, the phase conductor must be gray, however, you can buy a cable from old stocks, where the phase core may be of other colors (white, brown). The phase conductor sits on the upper terminal of the input circuit breaker, and from the bottom terminal with jumpers it goes to the upper terminals of all outgoing circuit breakers or is routed to circuit breakers of more in a modern way distribution - through distribution buses. Accordingly, the zero core (usually blue or blue color) sits on the zero block, and the protective block (usually yellow-green) sits on the protective block or on the welded bolt of the shield itself. The phase conductors of the cables going to the load are connected to the lower contacts of the machines. We carefully lay the input and output cables in the shield and remove them from the shield using a corrugated pipe. Automatic devices and RCDs must be installed depending on the consumed load of the consumer.
Now a few words about choosing the cable cross-section. Depending on the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna, you need to select the cable cross-section, for which you need to calculate the approximate load that the wiring in your sauna will carry. If you only have lighting fixtures in the sauna, then the total power will be no more than 1-2 kW.
If you need to operate any additional electrical appliances in the sauna, then you should calculate their approximate total power. If you do not have a particularly powerful consumer, such as an electric furnace, for example, then the total power of your sauna will not exceed 5-6 kW. Please note that electrical appliances usually have their power consumption written on them. Depending on the total power received, we select the cable cross-section. It is advisable to take a 20% power reserve. That is, if our total power is, for example, 5 kW, then we must calculate the wiring according to the value 5 * 1.2 = 6 kW. For this power, we need an input cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 (). There are special tables for selecting the cross section based on the power of consumers. It is advisable to conduct the cables leaving for lighting with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (), to the socket group with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 (). It is advisable to conduct all wiring with copper. Based on the total power, we calculate the current that needs to be known to select the input machine. The current is calculated using a formula known from school and is found by dividing our load by the network voltage. In our case, the current is 6000 / 220 = 27 A. The machine should be selected an order of magnitude greater than the obtained current value. You should choose a 32 A machine. Outgoing machines in groups should be selected according to the same principle.
It is advisable to sign in the panel which machine is responsible for which group of energy consumer, and it is also desirable that the panel contains a wiring diagram for the bathhouse/sauna.
In a sauna, RCDs (residual current devices) must be used. They will help save the lives of you and your loved ones, as well as the sauna itself from fire. To protect against fire, it is necessary to install an RCD with a cut-off current of 100 mA at the input in our panel, and an RCD with a cut-off current of 10 mA at the socket group.
We advise you to pay special attention to good fixation of the cores in the terminal block clamps. A bad clamp causes the area to heat up and can cause the contact to burn and the terminal to burn out.
Under no circumstances do any work when the wiring in the bathhouse/sauna is live, as this is very dangerous and can result in electric shock. Even qualified electricians rarely work under voltage! It is prohibited to store foreign objects in the shield, with the exception of the circuit diagram!

Cable routing from the panel in the bathhouse/sauna

It is recommended that the cables extending from the panel be routed in one piece. Wire cross-sections are calculated depending on the expected load. It is recommended to use cables with copper conductors. If the walls of the sauna are wooden, then the electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna should be carried out in boxes or corrugated. If the walls are brick, then it is advisable to hide the cables under a layer of plaster. No twists, switches or sockets should be located in rooms with high humidity and high temperature. Thus, switches and sockets must be located in rest rooms or dressing rooms. Accordingly, mounting boxes are also prohibited in these rooms due to a certain likelihood of moisture accumulation with an unnamed short circuit.
The latest edition of the PUE generally prohibits any twisting in places indicated by the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna. The PUE obliges the conductors of wires to be connected by welding or soldering, but twisting also has the right to life, subject to strict measures of protection from high temperatures and humidity.
It is recommended to use protective grounding in saunas. So, even at the construction stage, it would be useful to use a steel mesh for leveling the potential on top of the waterproofing under concrete base. The mesh, naturally, must be connected to the protective circuit.
Wires from junction boxes should only go at right angles, this is especially true when hidden wiring. This is necessary to easily locate the cable in the wall. Do not run cables above the stove. The wiring in the bath/sauna should not have metal sheaths or pipes.

Connecting lamps in a bath/sauna

Sauna lights should be selected based on the high temperature and high level humidity. They must be very reliably protected from water in the sauna. Lamps must be selected that are waterproof with a protection class of at least IP-44. The lampshades should be made of glass, and the body should preferably be metal. Plastic housing is not recommended due to possible deformation at high temperatures. The iron housings must be connected to the protective conductor of the cable. It is recommended to use lamps with a power limited to 75 W.
The wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna will tell you where to place the lighting fixtures. Placing luminaires on the ceiling is fraught with danger. The highest temperature builds up under the ceiling, negatively affecting both the lamp itself and the nearby wooden structures. Widespread The lamps were placed on the walls, where the temperature is significantly lower. In the steam room and washing room, it is advisable to use low-voltage voltage (12V), for which step-down transformers are used, located outside these rooms. Lamps with lamps daylight It is prohibited to install in saunas.
In the rest room or dressing room, you can place lamps with fewer requirements.
The regulations prohibit the installation of light switches located directly in steam rooms and washing rooms.

Connecting sockets in the bath/sauna

Considering the aggressive conditions of saunas and baths, significant restrictions are imposed on sockets. Thus, sockets are prohibited from being located in steam rooms and washing rooms. They can only be used in the rest room and dressing room at a height of 90 cm. The protection class of the socket is selected to be at least IP-44. It is advisable to use sockets with covers. Sockets are installed on the walls depending on the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna.

Connecting an electric furnace in a bath/sauna

Electric stoves are a modern version of wood-burning heaters. Electric ovens also heat up quickly, however, their undeniable advantage is their compactness, manufacturability and ease of use. Modern stoves make it possible to set the optimal temperature and do not become clogged with coals and ash.
To connect an electric furnace, you need wires that can withstand, firstly, high temperatures (up to 170 °C) and, secondly, high power consumption (4 kW on average), which should be reflected in the wiring diagram in the bathhouse/sauna. Your choice for connecting an electric furnace may be wiring in a corrugated pipe or cable duct, inside of which there are single wires of the brands PMTK, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS. Copper cable for an electric furnace with a cross section of 3*2.5 mm, it can withstand about 5 kW of load. In order not to pull an expensive cable to the shield, it is acceptable to stretch the wires of PMTK, PRKA, RKGM or PRKS to mounting box located outside the area of ​​high humidity and temperature, and go from the box using a regular cable, for example to an electrical panel.

The PUE recommends concealed installation of electrical wiring in bathhouses, showers and steam rooms.
PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) - this can be said to be the “Bible” of an electrician. It is there that all the requirements and standards are described, applying which we will have high-quality and efficient electrical wiring in the bathhouse/sauna.
In bathrooms and showers, only electrical equipment that is specifically designed for use in the relevant areas of these premises should be used. The PUE does not allow the installation of plug sockets in bathrooms, steam rooms and soap rooms of saunas and baths. Any plug sockets and switches should be located at a distance of more than 60 cm from the shower door. In steam rooms, PUE insists on using wiring that can withstand high temperatures (up to 180°C). The PUE strongly recommends that all equipment not built into the electric heater be placed outside the sauna. The PUE insists on the presence of a temperature limiter in the steam room, which, when reaching 140°C, will disconnect the electric furnace from the voltage. Do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse is quite feasible when using high-quality installation, high-quality electrical equipment, which is the key to your safety!

Electrical wiring in a bathhouse is naturally different from wiring in a residential building. The room closest to the requirements is the bathroom. It also takes place high humidity, but the temperatures are, of course, different.

However, even in a bathhouse, not all rooms are equally problematic from an electrician’s point of view. So we would call the most “problematic” steam room And washing room Rest room, dressing room, bathroom and veranda don't require increased protection of wiring and devices.

The question arises: Is it necessary to use more expensive heat-resistant wires? for electrical wiring in a steam room? For those who have no way out and have to conduct wiring inside the walls of the steam room - yes, definitely. If you follow the rules - only through the wall to the lamp, then it is a matter of ease of replacing the wire.

The fact is that simple PVC insulation is necessary over time will collapse in the area that is subject to exposure to high temperature. Usually this at the wire entrance to the lamp. Therefore, it is recommended to do this section heat resistant.

In a steam room with an electric oven

Electric furnace used only in sauna,(because we question the ability of electric furnaces without a steam generator to create a Russian bath mode).

Power calculation usually done in a simplified manner, according to the cubic capacity of the room, based on the ratio of 1-1.5 kilowatts per cubic meter. Therefore, it is enough for you to proceed from one or one and a half volume of the steam room. Let's assume that a pair room of 1.8*1.4*2.1 is given (DSHV). Its volume is 5.3 cubic meters. Consequently, the furnace power is from 5 to 8 kW. And that's it small steam room!

It is clear that such a power plant is not installed on a regular outlet (here the current strength is 23-36 A, and a regular outlet can withstand 10-16 A). The wire is led outside and connected to a power outlet (they come in different capacities).

Heat-resistant wires of the required cross-section included with the stove itself, so you just need to output and connect them.

BY THE WAY! A grounding plug requires a ground connection to the outlet, this is not new, is it? 🙂

But the electric furnace also has requirements for grounding. Ideally, you make a ground loop back in construction process, covering the perimeter with a metal tape, which is welded to the mesh on the floor, and then connecting it to the grounding in the panel.

Wiring

There are certain principles wiring that is correct when constructing any scheme electrical wiring in the bathhouse, depending on specific conditions. That is, you build a diagram for a given room layout, but are guided by general rules.

We have already talked above about what an electrical panel is. Do you remember about consumer groups, each of which has its own circuit breaker.

IMPORTANT! Each power plant can (and should) have a circuit breaker.

But the lighting and socket groups of consumers are quite suitable for connection several consumers sequentially using branches in junction boxes.

REMEMBER! Typically, no more than five sockets or lamps are installed on one cable. If you have more of them, make a second group of the same name.

The rules say that in addition to circuit breakers, it is advisable to install RCD, This is especially true for electrical equipment in wet rooms.

Residual current devices - RCD

Exists two main wiring diagrams in the bathhouse (and not only in it), as well as a third scheme, which is a combination of the first two.

The first circuit is sequential

We already said above that sockets and lamps can be connected sequentially per supply cable, simply by making taps from it in the right places inside the distribution boxes.

This circuit is the simplest and therefore popular. Moreover, it can be called more budget, because when using it there is no need to install a separate circuit breaker for each current consumer. In the case of the described consumer groups, this is unprofitable.

The second scheme is “Star”

This is about parallel connection, which is also called “star”. This name can probably be explained by the fact that a “beam” cable stretches from each of the current consumers to the panel, which, if there is sufficient quantity consumers should really form something like a “star”.

There are cases when such a connection cost-effective. We can definitely say that it is cost-effective for powerful current consumers, which require special cables with a large cross-section and special sockets. But it is needed when we're talking about about homogeneous low-power consumers.

"Star" expensive, because a machine is installed on each cable, the number and length of cables increases, the shield has to be more powerful, and the work on such an installation is much more complicated and, accordingly, more expensive.

Therefore, a combined method is optimal.

The third scheme is “Loop”

Actually, we have been describing it since the beginning of this article. This is when groups of consumers are created in the panel, and some cables lead to single powerful consumers.

One small but important stage of construction simply cannot be avoided. It is necessary to provide electricity to the bathhouse, make proper wiring inside the room in accordance with established rules and install points: sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, according to the diagram. About this and that how to do wiring in a bathhouse and a steam room with your own hands, you will learn from this article.

How to connect a sauna to electricity from the house?

The bathhouse is built separately from the house and is connected to the switchboard with a separate cable, through its own machine and RCD. Most often, the power cable is laid underground, which has some advantages over creating an overhead line.

• The number one advantage is that this type of gasket provides cable safety and eliminates its breakage in gusty or squally winds.
• Advantage number two is that cable inconspicuousness does not spoil the external aesthetic appearance of the surrounding landscape. Switchboard Most often it is installed at the entrance to the room, from the outside, but installation inside the room is also possible. Connected to this shield electrical sockets and lighting fixtures.

If you plan to install additional electrical equipment - electric oven(although who will install an electric stove in a frame or log house?), a steam generator, electric heating, then the total power must correspond not only to the wiring in the bathhouse and steam room, but also to the main power cable itself.

Separately standing bathhouse can be connected with a SIP cable or aluminum wires without insulation, which are stretched between two buildings. It is better to choose a SIP cable so as not to pull it over a section of wire without insulation. The SIP system has its own system of fastening to facades and a load-bearing steel core, which makes it possible to tension the cable.

If the footage from the line connection point is more than 25 meters, an intermediate pole must be installed. The SIP cable has aluminum wires and it cannot be entered into wooden sauna. To enter the bathhouse, a power circuit breaker or switch is installed on the facade, after which a cable with copper wires is connected and introduced into the room using a metal sleeve.

Underground electrical cable installation

This method of connecting a bathhouse will require a significant amount of excavation work when digging a trench with a depth of 0.8 to 1.2 meters, from the connection point to the bathhouse. Cable for underground laying You can lay it directly into the ground or use a plastic sleeve from a pipe to better protect the cable from damage.

For these purposes, it is better to use products with insulation made from XLPE grade cross-linked polyethylene, which has a guarantee of about 25 years. The cable can be connected to two panels from below, through the foundation along interior wall with its installation in a metal pipe. This type of connection is intended to protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and comply with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Regulations.

Installation of distribution panel

The dimensions of the internal shield are determined by the number of used circuit breakers and RCDs that will be installed. The shield is placed at a height of 1.5 to 2 m from the floor near the entrance to the bathhouse in order to turn it on upon entering. At the input, an RCD must be installed for all electrical wiring and an input circuit breaker, which must have a lower operating current than the circuit breaker in the house that protects the outgoing line. If a 25 A automatic circuit breaker is installed in the house, a 20 A automatic circuit breaker can be installed in the bathhouse at the input. The RCD at the input protects all the electrical wiring of the bathhouse and is designed to protect the bathhouse from fire and protect people from possible electric shock if it leaks.

Electrics in the bathhouse: rules, wiring diagram

Next, we will consider two main issues that arise when installing electrics in a bathhouse. First, for example, consider the simplest wiring diagram in the dressing room, with detailed description the whole process. Further important practical advice on the topic: do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse.

Correct wiring diagram in the bathhouse and its step-by-step installation

If you are looking for information that will indicate where and how many sockets, switches, and lamps you should install, then this is not entirely the right approach to resolve the issue.

Start thinking about what devices you will use and where they will be located. Determine places for switches, lamps and start creating your wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Functional placement of electrics is when, upon entering the room, the switch is located by itself, turning on the TV is not associated with rearranging the furniture, and using the socket does not imply adopting a horizontal position. Below are the step-by-step steps:

Step one: Drawing a wiring diagram

Let's get started with a simple working electrical diagram for the dressing room. The minimum set of points consists of:

• Switch (1 pc.);
• Electrical sockets (2 pcs.);
• Lamp (1 pc.);
• Distribution box (1 pc.);
• Automatic switch (1 pc.).

The simplest wiring diagram for a waiting room, taking into account distances and installation locations
In the photo: Designation of the circuit breaker on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of electric lamps on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of the switch on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of sockets on the diagram
In the photo: Layout of all nodes and points

Step two: We install cable channels (canisters) or corrugation (tubes) for wiring

All wires, in case open wiring, must be protected by plastic cases or corrugated hoses. And this is really important!

I want to give you a real one example from life. In a city apartment, children were playing ball in the hallway. The ball hit the wall along which the insulated wire from the lamp ran down and the wire turned into a fuse cord. A white, luminous point began to move, devouring the insulation. I turned off the lamp, but it was too late, the process had already begun. It’s good that there was no cobweb or “dust bunny” in the way of the light and the light did not have time to hide in the wooden baseboard and the process itself was controlled by adults, otherwise a fire could not have been avoided.

If you choose corrugation, then all the wiring is passed through it in advance using an internal wire. When planning and calculating the volume of material, take it with a small (5-10%) reserve. If you opted for cable channels - pencil cases (and I prefer this option), then the laying of the wire can be carried out directly when connecting the wiring. When choosing pencil cases, be guided by the wiring dimensions. You can’t take a small volume because the wire won’t fit, and there’s simply no point in taking more than you need.

In the photo: cable channels of various sizes for wiring
In the photo: wiring laid to the switch in the cable channel

Step three: Laying wires in cable channels

Having started installing the wiring in the bathhouse, you must, of course, be provided with the appropriate wires and cables. But how to choose a wire from the right material with required section? Having in hand professional project no questions will arise, but how to solve it if the circuit and the wiring itself are made independently?

Some simple rules will help you cope with this task:

1. We do not purchase aluminum wires. Why? Increased fragility, inability to directly twist with copper, lower throughput with equal cross-section;
2. We use multi-core wires: usually two or three wires, when planning a grounding device;
3. For power points of household appliances from the distribution box, use a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2;
4. For lamps with a power from 0.1 to 2 kW, a wire with a cross-section of even 0.5 mm 2 is sufficient;
5. When purchasing a wire, follow the priorities in descending order: material, cross-section, insulation, price.

Table

ratio of the cross-section of stranded copper wire for use in a network with a voltage of 220V to the load power

Wire cross-section in mm	Power in kW	Current in A
0,5	2,4	11
0,75	3,3	15
1	3,7	17
1,5	5	23
2	5,7	26

Step four: We connect the wiring according to the wiring diagram

And so, there is a diagram, the cable channels are installed, the wiring is routed, all that remains is to connect the pre-purchased sockets, switches and lamps into one working circuit. During the connection process, I recommend using two methods: the block method and the twisting method. In fact, some count 5, seven or even 7! such methods, but the ones I offer are the simplest, most reliable and not expensive.

Preparation and installation of connections in the block

The first step is to remove part of the insulation of the wire that will be attached to the terminal. As soon as it is not removed! Teeth and a sharp knife are not very good a good option. It’s clear about teeth, but when using a knife, there is a possibility of damage to the conductive part of the wire. It is possible to use heating with a suitable device, or even better, purchase an automatic stripper - a special tool for removing insulation.

Wire Stripping Tools

You need to measure about 3 cm from the beginning of the wire and melt (or bite off with a stripper) part of the insulation. We pull out the conductive part, leaving 1 cm and then, twisting the wire, we get a perfect twist. After twisting, cut off the excess with pliers and solder the conductive part.

Preparing the wire for installation in the block

After this, we twist the exposed conductive part for connection into the block and insert it under the washer into the sockets of the block and tighten the screw. Carbolite terminal blocks are mounted in accordance with GOST 17557-88. Installation of wires with a cross-section of up to 1.5 mm in such blocks does not pose any difficulties at all.

Installation of the wire in the block and installation in the junction box

Preparation and installation of twisted connections

You can make connections by twisting the wires. This option is cheaper, but not by much, so the choice is yours. Although after installation by twisting, everything will be hidden in the junction box and on aesthetic side The chosen option will not affect the issue in any way. And regarding the reliability and efficiency of twisting as a connection method, we can say the following.

At the moment, this method of connection is a little disliked, suggesting that it is morally outdated and somehow flawed, especially construction market offers us many affordable, modern and technological solutions. But the fact remains: twisting is one of the most reliable types of installation for one simple reason. At quality connection The contact area of ​​the connected elements is greater when using other options! And this, in turn, provides confidence that overheating of the connection point will not occur, which makes this choice safer and more reliable.

How to make high-quality twist?

• We remove part of the insulating coating of the wires;
• We make a kind of fan out of each wire;
• We combine the resulting fans in one plane;
• We perform manual twisting of wires;
• We perform additional twisting using pliers;
• We solder the resulting twist;
• We remove the end of the resulting twist using wire cutters;
• We insulate the connection with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

How to make a quality twist

That's all, the virtual installation of wiring in the bathhouse according to the chosen scheme is completed. But, however, in order not to deceive the expectations of individual readers, I am posting working proven wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Based on it, everyone can make their own design that suits them, removing or adding the necessary elements.

Electrics in the bathhouse: important practical tips

In conclusion, I will give a few simple but important practical advice regarding the organization of electrics in the bathhouse. There are NO insignificant moments that relate to electrics!

• Power sockets are connected to the switchboard with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 brand VVG or NYM 3x2.5, the lighting and switch are connected with the same cable with a wire cross-section of 1.5 sq. mm.
• All passages through walls performed in a metal sleeve;
• Cable laid at a height of 10 cm from the ceiling, distribution pipes are installed at the same distance boxes;
• Switches and distribution boxes installed on the side of relatively dry rooms;
• Sockets in the steam room are not installed, in the bathroom or washing room you can install sockets with a degree of protection IP44, for the protection of which a separate RCD and automatic circuit breaker are installed in the panel;
• Lamps are connected to the junction box with a 3x1.5 cable and when laying the cable under wood trim steam rooms or sinks must be inside a metal pipe;
• To avoid laying cables in a pipe, lamps in the steam room can be installed in the corners, and connected from above through the attic to reduce the length of the cable that runs under the lining, and first pass the cable into copper pipe, which is easier to mount and bend;
• Do not try hide the wiring under wooden baseboard, place the wires near the floor together with sockets and extension cords. What if you accidentally drop a bucket of water and there will be fireworks! Perhaps an additional RCD needs to be installed. Remember about children, pets, start worrying in advance;
• Do not twist together aluminum and copper wire. This is an unreliable connection, it will oxidize over time and there will be no necessary contact, and with a high current there will also be heating, and then it’s not far from a fire. Don’t make such a connection even for a while, then you will forget, and everything temporary becomes permanent. Use contact connectors.
• For greater safety, after each entry of electrical wires, be it a bathhouse, an outbuilding or a house, it is advisable to install separate automatic fuse. This will make troubleshooting easier in the future and will ensure better protection, and in case of a short circuit it will work faster;
• If single-phase wiring, then it is advisable to separate wires for sockets through your automatic fuse and wires for lighting through another. You won’t be left in complete darkness; again, it’s easier to find the cause of the problem yourself later. If electrical network– three-phase, then each phase must be evenly loaded with consumers. For example, connect one phase to sockets, the second to lighting, the third to economic needs: pump, water heater, household lighting, etc. Overload in case of simultaneous switching on of electrical appliances is excluded.

Three words about connectors and why I don’t like them?

Regarding the connectors - a separate issue, I personally am afraid to use them, this disease remains from using the Volga car. When I turned on the low beam, smoke poured out from under the torpedo, this forced me to return from the dacha before darkness, I remember I even had to exceed the speed limit so as not to catch fire. They passed a law - drive with the headlights on, decided that they were completely under pressure, couldn’t stand it, removed the dashboard, cleaned the contact connection on the switch and soldered it. A friend’s torpedo on the number nine burnt out completely; he barely managed to jump out of the car, lucky! If used copper wires, then it’s better to twist them, solder them, and wrap them with insulating tape. If you are confident in the quality of the connecting contacts, then it is easier with them.

Which circuit should I put the light switch on?

I recently made an important discovery for myself. Have you ever wondered which circuit to install the light switch on - phase or neutral? Do you know that yourself? At first I thought that it would be safer to use the neutral wire; it wouldn’t shake if the switch broke. It turned out that phase - safer. If a light bulb socket is stuck in a chandelier, but the bulb itself remains in your hands, turn off the light and, using pliers on a stepladder, without fear of shaking, calmly unscrew the socket. If you approach it in the reverse order, then in case of shaking, falling from a stepladder, pushing off from a chandelier, is extremely inconvenient than sliding down the wall with a switch.

About lamps and dimmers in the bathhouse

And one more thing about lamps. Now everyone is gradually abandoning incandescent lamps and switch to energy-saving and rightly so, such lamps save electricity, last longer and heat up slightly. However, it must be taken into account that some lighting control devices on the market, in particular dimmers (light intensity regulators) and switches with diode backlighting, are not suitable for such lamps.

As for dimmers, you need to use special models for energy-saving lamps, dimmers for conventional lamps with energy-saving lamps do not work due to the design features of the latter. LED-backlit switches can cause lamps to flicker when the lights are off, which is again due to differences in the design of conventional and energy-saving lamps. If your lamp flickers when the lights are off, then the switch may be to blame. You need to either turn off the backlight diode in the switch, or use special switch, I think that such should exist.

This article is over... It is clear that for some the number of letters, text and information presented will seem excessive, for others, on the contrary, something will not be enough. However, the purpose of this article was not to make you a ready-made professional electrician. The goal was to provide an understanding of the entire process of organizing electrics in a bathhouse with your own hands, as well as to draw attention to individual important points its installation. I hope this worked out and the information is useful to you...

Electrical wiring to the bathhouse is carried out according to special rules - in accordance with the requirements of the PUE, which are specially designed for wet rooms, like a bathhouse. The main rules are as follows: all the fittings are located in the dressing room or rest room, there are no sockets in the washing room or steam room, and the lamp shades are completely sealed - special for high humidity.

A modern bathhouse is not just a couple of lamps, but much more functional and a complex system. Which, naturally, requires high-quality power supply. Those. In addition to standard lighting, the steam room today is already equipped with:

• Electric heater;
• Warm electric floor;
• Electric temperature and humidity meters;
• Infrared heaters;
• Electric kettle and hair dryer;
• Mini fridge for beer;
• Plasma TV;
• SPA equipment;
• Internal lighting in the pool;
• Water heater;
• Washing machine;
• Pumping station;
• Heat gun for drying all rooms.

What are the dangers of improper electrical wiring in a bathhouse? The thing is that steam is an excellent conductor of electricity. Therefore, sockets can be installed only in those rooms that are well protected from moisture - only there condensation will not penetrate into the socket and its current-conducting part. But plug sockets for a steam room are generally taboo.

The ideal option is to initially invite an experienced, proven specialist who will carry out all the calculations and install all the equipment himself. If this is not possible, you can figure it out yourself, but it is important to fully study all the nuances. And then invite a specialist at least for a control viewing, for which he will not charge much. The specialist needs to be given rough plan placement of bath sockets, switches and lamps - and what devices will be placed where. And subtract in advance the planned total power of all the equipment that will be - this is how the electrician will determine the required cross-section for the cables.

So, how to conduct electrical wiring in a bathhouse - from theory to practice.

General provisions for proper electrification

So, how to make electrical wiring in a bathhouse? Here's how: electricity is supplied to it from the main distribution panel through a separate power line - and the bathhouse has a separate circuit protective grounding. Moreover, the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in those places where it will be least noticeable - but at a distance of at least one and a half meters from the radiators and pipes. And not in corners or opposite doors and passages. And here there are several rules:

• The supply voltage must be passed through an RCD and an AV, as well as a step-down transformer for lighting the steam room and washing room.
• The best cable that can be used for electrical wiring in a bathhouse is, according to experienced bath attendants, a VVGngLS 3x2.5 cable. It is copper, in a special shell that does not spread combustion.

• The panel, general switch and distribution boxes must be installed in the dressing room.
• To run wires through the walls in a bathhouse, you need to drill holes right in the center of the log and insert it there steel pipe at ½ inch. The wiring itself in the bathhouse can be done in metal, corrugated flexible and special plastic pipe. This one will not light up even if the wiring itself catches fire - it will only melt.

• If this is exactly what we're talking about wooden bath, then all wiring should be exclusively open - but preferably, not along the baseboards, but through the attic. The connection of the wires must be made using a terminal connection - and nothing else. And under no circumstances should they be twisted - all cables must be solid. But what you should definitely avoid when installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse is rubber and vinyl braided wires. Corrugated wire brand H07RN-F is well suited for baths.

Electrical wiring diagram in the bathhouse: the main thing is safety!

By the way, the fact that all devices and the switchboard should be located only in a room ideally protected from moisture is dictated not only by fire safety - in conditions of high humidity, all this quickly fails due to corrosion. Moreover, even plastic products - after all, they still have metal parts inside. But as for the modern shower cabin, which is equipped with built-in water heating, there is no need to worry. Due to the fact that the manufacturer initially cares about protection, it can also be installed in a washing room.

As for lamps, their body should be metal, and the shade should be made of glass. It is advisable to install them only on walls, because... All the heat goes to the ceiling, and the temperature there is not low.

So, the transformer to which the supply voltage must be supplied must be rated at 220 volts and installed in a completely dry place. Only 12 volts can be carried through the wall into the steam room and washing room - and there cannot be any sockets there. Although officially allowed by the requirements of the PUE (for dangerous premises, like a bathhouse) in a steam room and a voltage of 42 volts - when 36 volt light bulbs are installed.

If you plan to be in the bathhouse washing machine, then you will definitely need to install it only in a dry room - as well as make an outlet for it there. A separate wire should be made into the heating tank - this is important.

It is highly advisable to lay a grounding loop around the bathhouse itself, and install a differential circuit breaker or RCD in the panel for leakage of no more than 30 mA. If for some reason all this cannot be done in your steam room, then a T-220/12 must be installed in the dressing room panel.

Both the RCD and the machines should eventually end up in a waterproof box.

If you need to install sensors for an electric heater, then only low-voltage ones, at a distance of 1 meter from the floor - and on the wall farthest from the heater. The control panel must be mounted outside the steam room. The electric heater itself, by the way, is always installed without sockets - with a direct cable to the switchboard, which hangs outside the steam room.

Wires in the steam room and analysis of the main mistakes

And now about the most delicate part - the most complex electrical wiring in the bathhouse, namely in the steam room. The most important rule is that it should not be closer than 0.8 m from the chimney and heater.

In shower and steam rooms, lamps must be installed with a degree of protection IP44 and higher. And the safest option is 12-volt halogen light bulbs. But for the steam room and furnace room it is better to take a particularly heat-resistant wire that can withstand heating up to 180˚ - brand SILFLEX Sif S = 0.25-185 sq. mm, single-core, with silicone insulation.

For safety reasons, many bathhouse attendants organize the lighting of the steam room from below - closer to the cool floor. This is most often spot lighting that can be placed under shelves, making the lighting design mysterious and unusual. Moreover, the wiring itself must be done with a special heat-resistant wire in a metal pipe.

An important point: like any equipment, sauna electrics must be inspected at least once every four years - this is a guarantee of safety. And for reference: aluminum wiring has a shelf life of 15 years, copper wiring - 20, and therefore after this period it must be replaced - if we are talking about an ordinary house, and in a bathhouse it even works in a rather aggressive environment.

Another important nuance: if you hire professional electricians, it is still advisable to understand at least some of the intricacies of electrical wiring in the bathhouse. After all, it is known that today there are many who pretend to be specialists, and if their favorite steam room burns down, they will not be found even with fire.

This is how you do the electrical wiring of a bathhouse yourself - it’s complicated, but it’s all real. And once you figure it out, everything can be done much better and safer than hiring a team of local “electricians” with experience.