Installation of interior partitions from plasterboard seems to many complex process, accessible only to experienced craftsmen. Following our step by step instructions, you can easily install interior partition with your own hands, without any special skills.

Drywall is one of the most comfortable materials for installation of interior partitions.

Benefits include:

• ease of installation;
• availability of materials;
• wide range of design possibilities for creating various forms and the components of the partition - arches, niches, shelves;
• easy dismantling;
• light weight that does not create a load on the floors;
• possibility of finishing with any materials - paint, tiles, wallpaper, PVC panels;
• frame structure allowing intracavity insulation and sound insulation.

Plasterboard partition. Installation instructions

A Few Basic Steps detailed instructions and a minimal set of tools will allow you to create a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands.

Preparatory work

Before you begin installing the partition, you need to carefully consider its design, operational functions, and design. To do this, do detailed drawing rooms with a future wall.

If necessary, visit local BTI authorities to approve the project.

Empty the room as much as possible from furniture, or cover it with film.

Decide what material you will make the frame from. The base can be metal or wood. Metallic profile- a convenient and reliable option, unlike wooden beams, does not require drying to prevent deformation twisting, or treatment with antiseptics. The profile is resistant to moisture, fungus, and mold.

Think in advance about all communications passing through the partition, wiring, and the position of sockets.

Preparation of materials and tools

You will need 12.5mm or 9.5mm drywall. 12.5 mm sheets are most often used. You can also use the “nine”, provided that the profiles are arranged more frequently. However, keep in mind that in this case the sound-absorbing and vibration-resistant properties of the structure are reduced. Also, to install a partition in a room with high humidity, it is recommended to use GKLV (moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets).

A sealing tape is placed at the joint between the profile along the contour of the partition and the enclosing structures.

Starting (guide) profiles and rack profiles are used:

• UW 50x40 under CW 50x50 - if the cladding is planned in one layer up to 7.5 cm thick or in two layers up to 10 cm;
• UW 75x40 under CW 75x50 - for single-layer up to 10 cm, double-layer up to 17.5 cm;
• UW 100x40 under CW 100x50 - in one layer up to 15 cm, in two up to 20 cm.

When the partition requires special strength, in the case of hanging shelves or cabinets on it, you should purchase reinforced profiles instead of racks, or strengthen regular profiles with embedded wooden blocks.

When creating an opening in a frame, we recommend using timber embeds that need to be inserted into the cavities of the frame profiles. The beams should be dried, slightly less in thickness than the profiles. So, for example, a 9.5 cm beam is inserted into 10 cm metal racks.

Surface Mounts:

• dowels for installation on concrete and brickwork- from 3.7 cm;
• wood screws - 3-5 cm;
• fasteners for the frame - metal screws with a 13 mm press washer;
• fasteners for gypsum boards - screws with a countersunk head - 2.5-2.7 cm;

Sound and thermal insulation materials(if desired) are placed inside the partition. Good sound insulation provide dense mineral wool mats, while polystyrene foam is clearly not suitable for this.

And also prepare your tools:

• screwdriver or drill with carrying case;
• spirit level, level;
• pencil for marking;
• metal scissors/wood hacksaw;
• plumb line;
• roulette;
• construction knife.

Once everything is ready, you can begin building the structure. This work consists of two main stages:

1. Installation of the frame.
2. Installation of drywall.
3. Installation of guides.

Before installing the metal frame of the structure, use a pencil level to make appropriate marking lines on the floor, ceiling and walls. In this case, it is most convenient to use a level. Also mark the placement of vertical profiles in 600 mm increments.

Pin on outside guide profiles and sealing tapes.

Then screw them with the grooves up along the perimeter using self-tapping screws and/or dowels (depending on the surface material). The fastening step is 40-50 cm. If the walls or ceiling have significant differences or surface curvature, level them using pads or wedges.

Formation of the frame of the doorway

When installing the frame, you must first provide an opening for interior door.

Form the frame for the door in the following sequence:

1. Cut the rack profiles to the required length and place a block into the profile cavity for reinforcement.
2. Insert the resulting elements into the grooves of the guide profiles on the ceiling and floor at the required distance to install the door frame.
3. Install horizontally, on required height, profile lintel over the future door frame.
4. After checking the level, secure all elements with 13-16 mm self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Installation of rack profiles.

Insert racks into the grooves of the ceiling and floor starting strips every 60 or 40 cm (the smaller the gaps, the stronger the structure). You can set it at 120 cm, but such a partition will be extremely fragile, decorative, and is unlikely to be suitable as an interior partition with a doorway.

Before screwing the rack profiles to the guides, attach a plumb thread to the opposite walls to adjust the level and, making sure that the structure does not have bends/distortions, secure the racks.

To create stiffening ribs, in places where the horizontal joining of plasterboard sheets will take place, install jumpers from the profile. To do this, cut off pieces of the profile with metal scissors and secure them to the posts. This is usually done before installing gypsum boards, but it is easiest to install them after covering one side of the partition.

Covering the partition frame

Before installing the first sheet, it is necessary to note the accuracy of its fit to the wall and, if necessary, cut it to the shape of the wall (if it has a level difference). There shouldn’t be any difficulties with covering the partitions either. complex shape, especially with inclined planes or shaped elements.

If the ceiling height is greater than the length of the plasterboard, the sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern. The easiest way is to secure all the whole sheets first, in the first row from the floor, in the second from the ceiling, and so on, alternating. After this, pieces are cut to completely fill the surface of the partition.

The gypsum board fastening step at the edges is 20-25 cm, in the middle you can make gaps of 30, but the same 20-25 cm is more convenient, since most manufacturers put a marking line on the sheets taking into account this distance, which is very convenient for beginners. The screw heads should not be deeply recessed into the sheet or left sticking out on the surface. It is better to make it flush with the heads slightly immersed. It is not recommended to twist screws into the edges/edges; make an indent of 2 cm.

When installing one side in the frame cavity, heat/sound insulating materials can be fixed.

ATTENTION! You should not trim gypsum boards with an angle grinder, as beginners often do, the room will be covered with white dust, and the edges will look torn and sloppy. It is enough to cut the cardboard on both sides along the dividing line, slightly pressing a construction knife into the plaster, and then break the sheet, resting along the cut line on the flat edge of the table or placing a thick board under it. advice from professionals regarding working with drywall will also help

Basic rules for installing gypsum boards:

• Leave deformation gaps with adjacent surfaces - 1 cm with the floor, 0.5 cm with the ceiling
• Remove chamfers on all drywall seams before installation, if there are none, for subsequent reinforcement and putty.
• If the paneling on one side runs from right to left, panel the other side from left to right to move the seams along the rows.
• Don't forget to mark the wiring locations if you have hidden wiring. Cut holes for sockets using crowns. The wires must be placed in a corrugated PVC tube.

That's all. The partition remains to be puttied and covered with any suitable finishing material.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Figuring out how to make a partition from plasterboard – even the simplest one – is worth it for any craftsman. The thing is that structures on metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, have quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and, if necessary, just as easily dismantled.

An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to carry out redevelopment with minimal costs, That better material can not found. Finally, making partitions from plasterboard is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room, dividing it into functional zones.

In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified from personal experience.

What do you need for work?

Materials

When planning the construction of gypsum plasterboard partitions, we first need to take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profiles for its installation:

1. For cladding, we purchase plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 “Gypsum plasterboard sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms standard gypsum board is used, but when dividing a bathroom into separate bathrooms and toilets, it is better to take moisture-resistant ones. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
2. Separately, it is worth mentioning fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and combined option, providing resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of fire, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it is necessary to keep in mind that such sheets also exist!

1. I prefer to make the frame for the partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter we will need a guide profile (PN/UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports– rack-mount (PS/CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.

The guide profile is produced in panels standard length 3 m. With a rack, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose in accordance with the height of the ceiling in the room, since vertical extension of the rack is extremely undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when doing your calculations!

1. Sometimes instead steel profile used for making frames wooden beam impregnated with antiseptic. A partition made of bars and plasterboard may be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically don’t use this option. .

In addition to drywall and frame elements To arrange the partition we will need other materials:

• hangers and other fasteners for gypsum boards;
• sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
• fasteners (screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
• wooden beam for decorating the doorway;
• perforated corner for decorating the corners of the structure;
• primer for gypsum plasterboard;
• putty on drywall;
• serpyanka tape for gluing seams.

If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with sound insulation - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials(mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also possible to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable ducts made of non-flammable material, socket boxes and bases for switches.

Tools

To attach the frame to the wall you need concrete drills

On the one hand, the construction of plasterboard partitions does not require the use special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with such a task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with profiles and gypsum board is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.

Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following in hand:

1. A hammer drill with a set of concrete drills.
2. Cordless screwdriver.

We immediately purchase a special bit attachment for gypsum boards, which allows us to tighten the screws exactly to the required depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!

1. Crowns for cutting holes for installing sockets and switches.
2. Shears for metal (if a timber frame is being built, use a wood saw).
3. Roulette.
4. Level.
5. Plumb.
6. Hand tools – hammer, pliers, etc.
7. Painting knife with replaceable blades.
8. Saw for drywall (you can do without it, but it’s more convenient with it).
9. Planer for cleaning the ends of gypsum boards and for cutting seams between individual sheets.
10. Brushes for priming the surface.
11. Spatulas for finishing gypsum board.

It would also be a good idea to think in advance about exactly how we will carry out the cladding. IN standard houses or apartments there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling you will have to use special rack– otherwise it will be impossible to secure the profile and sheathing right to the ceiling.

Budgeting Information

When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything ourselves, then our budget will be limited only by the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for gypsum plasterboard partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) different, but general order The numbers can be found out from the table I compiled:

Material	Unit	Average cost, rubles
Standard plasterboard	sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm	200 — 250
- moisture resistant	—	250 — 280
- fire resistant	—	300 — 450
Guide profile PN	panel 3000 mm	75 — 300
PS rack profile	panel 3000 – 4000 mm	150 — 350
Perforated corner profile	panel 300 mm	40 — 125
Straight profile hanger	thing	10 -30
Single level connector	thing	10 – 30
Serpyanka ribbon	roll 20m x 50 mm	30 — 60
Sealing tape	roll 20m x 50 mm	200 — 300
Dowel-nail for fastening the profile	200 pieces	320 – 450
Self-tapping screw for gypsum board	1000 pieces	250 – 500
Fugenfuller putty	Packaging 25 kg	350 — 550
Uniloft putty	Packaging 25 kg	1100 — 1500

Installation technology

Marking

So, we’re done with everything we need, now let’s look at how to make partitions strong, even and beautiful. Today, the technology for installing structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents In my work I focus primarily on:

• SP 55-101-2000 “Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets”;
• SP 163.1325800.2014 “Structures using plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets, design and installation rules”;
• VSN 27-95 “Instructions for installation technology and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of element-by-element assembly”, etc.

In addition, it is worth considering the rules when working fire safety(SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).

We start work with markings:

1. We clear the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle everything Decoration Materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on load-bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
2. On one wall we set the distance we need twice: once along the floor, the second time along the ceiling. We connect the resulting points, controlling the verticality of the line using a plumb line.

1. We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.

1. We connect the resulting verticals along the floor and ceiling: we should end up with a rectangle, which will form the outline of our partition.

1. In the chosen place we mark the boundaries of the passage. If you plan to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need some extra space for the door frame.

Drawing and calculations

After this, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition onto it.

Be sure to indicate the front and back sides of the structure in the drawing. If you do not do this, then there is a risk of blocking a door or other opening from the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!

1. On the drawing we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. The optimal profile pitch is 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard gypsum board sheet 120 cm wide). It is not advisable to deviate from these figures, since this will increase the material consumption.
2. Based on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles needed to construct the frame. It is quite simple to calculate the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round up.
3. With rack profiles everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard gypsum board sheet, i.e. more than 2500 mm.

It is also worth sketching out the layout of the sheets on the drawing. I usually make two patterns - for the front and back sides. This makes it much more convenient to adjust the placement of the sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that the joints of the slabs fall on different racks on different sides. For example, from the front surface the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the back - on the second, fourth and sixth.

1. When making calculations, you should focus on the configuration of your partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the above sketch illustrating possible options GKL layouts and frame configuration.

After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even experienced craftsmen have defects, and it is better to have an extra sheet of gypsum board on hand and extra panel profile.

Frame installation

Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work by installing guide profiles:

1. Using scissors, I cut the guide profile panel to fit the width of the room, and then glue it onto its flat base. sealing tape.

1. I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its edges (usually the front) runs exactly along the marked marking line.

1. Using a hammer drill with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.

1. I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is pressed tightly against the metal.
2. I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fastener in with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten it.

IN wooden house It is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, tightening it without pre-drilling - this will be much more reliable.

1. Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.

1. Next I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it plumb. After that, I secure the rack with self-tapping screws from the bottom and top.

The stiffening rib should point in the direction from which the sheathing begins. I usually fasten sheets moving from left to right, so I orient the profile with the stiffeners to the left.

A little about fastening. Some craftsmen, instead of self-tapping screws, use special profile pliers, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but this device did not seem particularly convenient to me: perhaps I just need to get used to it.

Another nuance concerns the screw heads. Sometimes (almost always) they interfere with pressing the gypsum board tightly to the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the wrong side). Then, when with front side The gypsum board will be sewn on, I unscrew these screws and install the back sheathing. The rigidity of the connection suffers, if at all, only slightly.

I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the horizontal junction of the sheets.

1. A few words should be said about doorway. The vertical posts along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden beams, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

1. I make the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile approximately 20 cm larger than the width of the opening. I cut the side edges exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend it on each side along the resulting 10 cm segment. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.

1. I make sure to place at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.

Now that the frame is ready, we begin the final operations. So, at this stage I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.

GKL sheathing

The instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not complicated. If we have prepared load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, the cladding will go smoothly. If you missed something - and this happens even with experienced masters - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.

1. So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off approximately 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
2. We cut sheets using a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to use a workbench or a durable one for this purpose. long table, but if that doesn’t work, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cutting area. It is best to cut from both sides: cut through the sheet almost right through, carefully break it, turn it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. This will make the ends more neat.

1. We apply the gypsum board sheet to the frame so that the distance between the lower edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for gypsum boards, we fix the sheet to the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is advisable to make an indent from the edge of the sheet of at least 10 - 15 mm.

1. To securely fix the drywall to the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the cap should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It is to comply with this rule that I recommended above using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the screw any tighter than necessary.

1. Next important aspect– joining of sheets. Edges can only be joined on a rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes adjustment easier (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but sometimes you still have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is advisable to clean the end with a special plane and immediately cut off its corners by 450 - this will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.

1. When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we tighten the screws on adjacent sheets “staggered”, and lay the drywall panels with the seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we place a whole sheet below and a narrow strip on top, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet up to the ceiling.

1. Having sheathed one side, we move to the other. At this stage it is convenient to put heat and soundproofing panels, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring in them, etc.

1. On the other hand, we carry out the cladding using the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fastened “from the front” to one support, then from the inside the joint should fall on the adjacent support.

Finishing of the sheathed structure

After completing the installation of drywall, the interior partition needs to be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. I will tell you below how to do all the operations correctly at this stage.

The whole process can be divided into four tasks:

1. Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
2. Masking the fastening points of self-tapping screws.
3. Sealing seams between gypsum board sheets.
4. Design of the corners of the structure.

Here it is best to work according to this scheme:

1. First, we check whether the heads of the screws protrude above the plane of the drywall, and if necessary, tighten them. Let's not overdo it!
2. We cut off the cardboard peelings, and then carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
3. If we haven’t done this before (it’s a shame!), we unstitch the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the joined slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.

The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not require additional embroidery. Anyway, I limit myself to one or two passes with coarse sandpaper for better grip.

1. We treat the surface for better adhesion.
2. We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy ready-made - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).

1. Using putty as a thick glue, we glue the perforated corner profile to all corners, and strips of sickle tape to all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the sickle and perforated corner. Completely filling all the holes and cavities underneath them.
2. We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. Use a square to control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.

1. We treat flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places where screws are fixed.
2. On final stage We rub all surfaces with an abrasive material. Under decorative plaster Coarse grain is sufficient, but for wallpaper, and even more so for painting, after the initial sanding, it is imperative to do the finishing sanding - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.

Even a non-professional can make partitions from plasterboard with his own hands. It can be erected in the shortest possible time and at minimal cost. Drywall partitions do not have to be just square or rectangular: they can be semicircular, radius or arched.

Required materials

To work you will need:
1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles for creating a frame. They must be equal in width: the rack profile must easily fit into the groove of the guide.
2. Construction level.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Plumb.
6. Drywall. Since the partition is sheathed on both sides, it will require 2 times the required area.
7. Soundproofing materials: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Metal scissors for cutting aluminum guides.
11. A sharp knife for cutting drywall.

Guide and rack profiles

Frame installation

1. Using a square and tape measure, mark on the floor the place where the partition will be mounted. You can transfer this line to the ceiling using a plumb line. The partition must be installed exactly at an angle of 90° with respect to the walls.

Transferring markup

2. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling using dowel nails. guide profile(it is marked with the letters UW). For the construction of a thin partition, a width of 50 mm is sufficient. When laying inside a partition soundproofing materials profile UW100 should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.

Attaching the profile to the ceiling

Important! In places where the profiles adjoin the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to lay sealing tape. It will not only dampen sounds, but also reduce the risk of cracks. The polyethylene foam tape is attached to the profiles with the adhesive side.

Attaching the sealing self-adhesive tape

3. Rack profile installed in guide grooves in increments of 60 cm. This is done using metal screws. In this case, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the drywall sheets are exactly to the center of the profile. The outer racks are secured first.

Attaching the rack profile

4. If necessary, you can lay inside the partition electrical wiring. It is laid horizontally at the frame assembly stage in a special non-flammable corrugation. Electrical wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.

Electrical wiring

Doorway arrangement

1. Mount vertically in the intended location along the width of the opening. two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. We will tell you below how to arrange an arched opening or an opening of any arbitrary curved shape.

2. You can strengthen the doorway using a wooden beam or two profiles connected to each other.

To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles

Fastening drywall

1. The partition is covered with plasterboard on both sides.

2. Its sheets are attached to the frame with in steps of 25 cm so that their edges are exactly in the center of the rack profile. In this case, the head of the screw for metal should be slightly buried in the sheet so that it can be hidden later under the putty.

3. Do not screw screws into the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, step back 5 cm from the edge.

Fastening drywall

4. Drywall is mounted staggered (in a checkerboard pattern) so that the joints of the sheets fall on the center of the sheet of the previous row.

Laying order of sheets

5. If sound insulation is necessary, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or any other similar material is laid between the profile posts. It is installed after one of the sides is already covered with plasterboard.

Location of the sound insulation layer

Important! You should not build partitions from this material in the bathroom. Even moisture-resistant drywall can swell and lose shape over time when exposed to moisture.

Drywall cutting

1. Mark the cut location on the sheet with a pencil. The mark from a ballpoint paste or felt-tip pen may be visible through the putty, so you should not use them.

2. Drywall consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core. Initially follows with a sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and gypsum core. To do this, the sheet is laid on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and an incision is made along it. To cut the core, a knife is drawn along the cut line several times.

Cutting the first layer of cardboard

3. Then bend the cut area and break the gypsum core by lightly tapping along the cut line.

In order to break off the core, the sheet is slightly bent

Cutting through the second layer of cardboard

5. To remove defects, the cut site is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Processing cut edges

Important! Sheets that will be joined to each other at an angle must have a 45° chamfer. You can do it using a regular knife.

putty

1. The joints of the sheets and the recesses of the screws are puttied using gypsum, polymer or cement putty. If, when putting putty, the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, it should be pushed into the sheet a little deeper.

Plasterboard putty

2. To strengthen the joints of the sheets, it is laid reinforcing self-adhesive mesh. Before laying it, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then the mesh should be glued. External corners are finished profile corners or corners with reinforcing mesh.

3. If a plasterboard wall will be wallpapered or tiled, it is not necessary to use reinforcing mesh. It is only required when preparing walls for plastering or painting.

Laying reinforcing mesh along the seams

Drywall bending

When arranging semicircular, radius or arched partitions, the plasterboard needs to be bent. This can be done in two ways: dry and wet.

1. When dry bending Vertical cuts are made on one side of the sheet. You can make them quickly using a grinder. Since this generates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to carry out work outside.

2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, the sheets are bent by lenght.

Dry bending

Advice. If the bending radius is not too large, you can avoid making cuts, but carefully bend the sheet during the process of attaching it to the frame.

3. Wet bending. To allow moisture to penetrate deep into the sheet, it should be rolled before wetting. needle roller.

Roller rolling

5. A damp sheet of drywall is laid on the prepared template to dry. the desired shape and securely fixed.

Wet bending

Important! For bending, you should purchase arched plasterboard, which has a smaller thickness.

Profile bending

For installation of curved structures you can purchase arched profile or make it yourself. To do this, they are made on both sides cuts every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the bending angle: the larger it is, the more often notches should be applied. To make the transition smooth, their frequency must be the same.

Arched profile

You can make an arched profile yourself using cuts

Arch profile fastening

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were built with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which remains popular to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to take on any shape and the variety of profiles of its frame allow you to turn the most daring ideas of designers into reality. Easy installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is possible even for a beginner in the construction business.

Thanks to its porous structure, the material easily allows steam to pass through, regulating the level of humidity in the room. Impregnation of gypsum plasterboard with a special composition makes it possible to use drywall in a humid environment such as a bathroom or kitchen. Drywall, which contains natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The low weight of gypsum plasterboard partitions has little effect on bearing capacity the main elements of the building, which is very important when performing repairs on old wooden buildings. And during construction modern buildings the use of gypsum plasterboard structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and a reliable opening are determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. Narrow profile can save money usable area, and wide - to withstand significant loads.

Material calculation

The design of the future partition is a metal frame sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, in which there is a doorway. The frame consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are attached along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and rack profiles PS are mounted inside the contour with a pitch of 600 mm; they also form the doorway. For cladding, 12.5mm wall plasterboard with sheet dimensions of 2500x1200mm is used.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw on paper a diagram of the future partition indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, the frame drawing should include cutting sheets of plasterboard, which should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern with the joints fastened to the horizontal jumpers of the frame.

When making calculations, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decorative items. The location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required in places where accessories are attached or forming a doorway, depend on it.

Before making a partition from plasterboard, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be done using any of the numerous calculators posted on specialized websites construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build a metal partition frame with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb bob, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a hammer drill, a drill, a hammer, a painting cord, building level and a marker. An interior plasterboard partition with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Covering the partition frame with plasterboard

After installing the frame, it needs to be sheathed plasterboard sheets. You should start working with your own hands from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with a fastening pitch of 100-150mm.
• Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
• The fastener caps should be recessed 0.5 mm into the gypsum board.
• With a single-layer frame sheathing, the length of the screws is taken to be at least 25mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40mm. An important indicator in this case is the penetration of fasteners into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After covering the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay soundproofing material in it, which can be used as mineral wool in the form of slabs or rolls. The insulator must be laid between the rack profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the rules described above. It is recommended to attach the sheets to the frame profiles with a vertical offset to properly distribute the loads that arise during the operation of the partition.

Partition finishing

Finishing of the finished plasterboard partition is carried out in the following order:

Instead of a traditional door, a sliding door can be installed in the partition. In this case, the opening size will be smaller door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, a hanging rail and has an additional metal frame necessary to disguise the movement mechanism.

If necessary, engineering communications can be placed in the plasterboard partition: electrical wiring, pipes and others. Such work is planned in advance and carried out at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science is. We hope you now know how to make a plasterboard partition and doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in your work - and everything will work out for you. Good luck to all!

We bring to your attention a master class on making plasterboard partitions. In this article you will find all the information a novice installer needs. We will also outline the technological and operational features of the gypsum board walls.

Partitions made from plasterboard panels assembled on a metal frame have long been considered classics of the genre. Such designs have been successfully used abroad for several decades. They appeared here in the nineties and with their functionality they literally charmed developers and professional builders. At first it was difficult to find everything necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of installing frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often native Russian ingenuity). Now we have at our disposal completely complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers. Never before has an organization internal space wasn't that simple. These are truly universal systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.

Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of plasterboard walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not been justified. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including those where it is humid; fire resistance and penetration protection are needed.

Ten reasons to choose plasterboard partitions

Let's look at the main advantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:

1. Dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there is no escape from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full plaster or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
2. Weight. Again no competitors. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for single-layer lining, the weight per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition on top of wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak slabs of Khrushchev-era buildings, etc.
3. Load bearing capacity. It has never happened before that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one fastening point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): a kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard) can safely load up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The numbers are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer cladding of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. We'll tell you how to do this below.
4. Soundproofing. Between load-bearing profiles There is always the option of installing acoustic insulation materials. For an ordinary living space it is correct mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all options for partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise localized by the use of damper pads under the guide profiles. A correctly assembled plasterboard partition does not “clatter”; the profiles do not “rumble” when the interior door is closed. If you need to create a super-protected space, you can use multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, and assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). You can't achieve the same results with an array.
5. Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if it is covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of aqua panels on cement based. If there are really unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then “green” HA can be used throughout the apartment, and to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped in polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, since they are galvanized.
6. Presence of cavities. It is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications inside frame partitions. This is an excellent solution for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to install sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electricity. For ease of installation of routes, the metal racks have special perforations, additional windows can be cut with a grinder. The partition can easily accommodate mortise electrical boxes and panels, plumbing boxes, etc.
7. Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. Possible height is up to 9.5 meters, length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints every 15 meters). You can attach the partition to suspended ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
8. Intrusion protection. Actual question V public spaces- offices, warehouses, offices, etc. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multilayer cladding and screwing sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of cladding).
9. Low cost. With traditional single-layer cladding, a plasterboard wall is about half the price of a brick wall (with plastering) and about 15-20% cheaper than tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation prices.
10. Easy to install. Anyone can master the technology; it’s much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up the frame thread by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is planned out by the developers from start to finish, in fact, frame gypsum plasterboard partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are very rare. And yet, the only power tools you need are a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a foreman and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of ​​about 15-20 m2 in an eight-hour shift.

Technology for constructing plasterboard partitions

It is best to start installation after installing the subfloor (good planes make it easier to mark the contours) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after the partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be attached to ceilings and walls covered with gypsum plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can build the frame of the partition and carry out the sheathing, but the markings have to be done by two people, since a tapping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant level.

Marking

To transfer the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings to reality, as a rule, they start from some load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply put two points at the required distance and connect them; it is a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked using a large square, or by placing a sheet of drywall in place.

However, for large structures the errors from hand tools can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). Good way to obtain an exact right angle - draw an Egyptian triangle, in which the mutually perpendicular sides are multiples of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is 5.

We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions using a tapping cord or a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with the tracer, be very careful that the cord does not catch on anything, and be sure to thoroughly sweep the floor.

Now, using a plumb line, we transfer our markings to the ceiling. For each line you need to have two marks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the string of the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of an assistant, smoothly moves it until the point aligns with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor must carefully stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything comes together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.

It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.

At this stage, we suggest immediately marking the points on the floor indicating the edges of the doorway, if there is one. The main thing is not to forget to leave a 20-30 mm margin, so that later an installation gap of 10-15 mm on each side will form near the door block.

We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to use a tracer to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. This way we will have vertical markings to control the installation of the wall profile.

Frame assembly

The width and length of the profiles used are selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the optimal width will be a frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles, which, with a single-layer lining, form a partition 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.

Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be covered with damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions from enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied from the back with two threads into special grooves.

We lay the prepared sections of the PN along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out using “quick-installation” dowels 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a hammer drill. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases use self-tapping screws with a press washer.

During fixation, in addition to checking along the line, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of ​​the doorway, the profiles are secured with two dowels; for reliability, you can install even more fasteners.

Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first, so as not to fall asleep or trample the marking line.

The end vertical profiles are inserted inside the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they install PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other in the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the outermost PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rules, they are fixed.

Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the installation points of the racks. The pitch of PS (UW) profiles must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third is for ordinary partitions in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.

The marks at which the substations are installed in the design position are placed using a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend correlating the first marks on the ceiling and floor with each other using a plumb line, and then measuring the rest from them, so that all the racks will be strictly vertical.

We prepare PS profiles piece by piece according to length and insert them into the guides. The length of the racks should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If there are lines running inside the partition engineering communications, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.

Attention! The shelves of all PSs must be oriented in the same direction, with the only exception being one rack that forms the doorway.

Rack profiles are fixed to the PN shelves using cutting pliers or LN 9 mm self-tapping screws with a drilling end. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.

The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If installed here door block, then the racks need strengthening. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to its full height on one side with a cross-section of 40 mm (it will fit freely into the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is screwed with LN screws from the cladding side and TN 25 screws from the opening side (the wooden beam is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize the opening.

A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what level the finished floor will rise to, and allow a gap of 2-2.5 cm above the door). The jumper is made from a piece of PN, which is cut in the form of a double-sided “stick”. Also, the short parts of the “stick” can be bent down. We screw this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four to five self-tapping screws on each side.

Short PS profiles are inserted between the lintel and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch to ensure joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the desired direction.

Covering the subsystem with sheets

Cladding panels with long edges with a thinned edge must necessarily be joined in the middle of the rack profiles. The sheets are installed in the direction where the shelves of the PS profiles are facing, then the shelves will not bend under the influence of the screws. If the height of the sheets is not enough to cover the entire partition, then they must be placed with the joints staggered in height.

The drywall is placed in the design position and screwed with TN metal screws at intervals of no more than 250 mm. You should retreat 15 mm from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, the screws should be spaced 10-20 mm apart. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the countersunk head does not break through the top cardboard layer.

Attention! A gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained between the sheet and the enclosing structures, so temporary pads of suitable thickness are used in the floor area.

To ensure that the short joints of the sheets are also on the metal, measured sections of CD or PN/PS profiles are screwed to them between the posts. When screwing in the screws of the additional short sheet, you should not put too much pressure on the jumper, so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.

If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.

Very important point- this is the joining of drywall at the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be placed on a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).

When the partition has been lined on one side, the necessary communications can be made and embedded elements can be inserted. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as anchors for heavy objects; OSB and dry timber may also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of suitable size are screwed through the body of the drywall (between the studs) in specified places with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can be rested on the floor.

At this stage, a soundproofing layer is laid into the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which they begin to sew the frame on the other side. Sheets that overlap the opening are cut off using a saw and knife, and the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.

Attention! Joints of sheets used for sheathing different sides partitions should not fall on the same supporting rack.

Arrangement of corners and junctions

The joining of gypsum board partitions (T-shaped and corner) should only be done through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to screw the mating frame with metal self-tapping screws (35 mm long) to the embedded rack of the adjacent wall; therefore, additional PS should be provided in the right places.

A complex knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme PS profiles of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close to each other as possible, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The strip width must be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied over the entire height of the seam.

Round plasterboard partition

To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut into sectors 5-10 cm wide with a grinder. Along the outlined radius, the PN is secured with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel/screw must be used for each sector.

Curved posts are inserted at intervals of no more than 300 mm and fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.

Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:

1. Two layers arched plasterboard 6 mm thick are located horizontally. The combination of two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
2. A 12.5 mm wall gypsum board panel is pricked with a needle roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum permissible radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is done with a roller from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
3. A 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper must not be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched out with putty.

As you can see, the technology for making plasterboard partitions is quite simple. If you carry out all operations carefully and follow the rules we have outlined, you can assemble walls of any complexity, because this is just a construction set.

Video on the topic