Laying technology soft tiles assumes that shingles are fastened only in sunny weather. Under no circumstances should you heat it with burners. As a last resort, it is permissible to glue the tiles with bitumen glue and try to warm them up attic space, or itself roof covering using a hair dryer.

Materials and tools

For installation you will need:

• sealant or roofing mastic;
• construction strips for fixing junction points, cornice and front;
• regular galvanized and special roofing nails;
• knife for cutting shingles;
• construction hairdryer

Stages of preparatory work

Before covering the roof with soft tiles, the roof must be properly prepared.

1. A roofing pie is formed.
2. A rigid and level plywood base is laid on top of the windproof film, quality boards or OSB boards, which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic.
3. Placed under the tiles underlay carpet from old roofing felt, if the roof is being repaired, or any rolled bitumen material. It is carefully nailed in places where the roof joins other architectural elements, in places where the slope breaks, along the front overhang and cornice, in the valleys and along the ridge. If the slope of the roof slopes is more than 20 degrees, the material is nailed over the entire surface in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints and overlaps of the carpet sheets, it is treated with sealant or bitumen mastic.
4. A drip line (eaves strip) is nailed on top of the carpet, which will protect the sheathing structure from moisture. If you mean architectural features Because of the roof and structure there is no way to nail it, the eaves strip is wrapped under the sheathing and fixed with nails every 5 cm.
5. Before laying soft tiles along the gable, they also nail end strips, protecting the sheathing and helping to remove moisture down from the ridge.
6. Next in line are ridge-eaves shingle strips. The shingle strips are nailed end-to-end at a distance of about 2.5 cm from the edge. The joints are coated with bitumen mastic and the free edges of the strips are glued to it.
7. Next, they usually pay attention to the installation of the drain, in particular, installing brackets that will subsequently support its elements.
8. Separately in places adjacent to walls, other slopes, ventilation pipes and other structures, in niches and other places where moisture is likely to accumulate, an additional waterproofing valley carpet is also created from bituminous materials. It is nailed with galvanized nails at intervals of 10 cm, and the edges are coated with waterproof glue or mastic.

It is known that flexible tiles may differ in color depending not only on the batch, but also on the packaging. An important point is the need to use sheets from only one pack on each roof slope, or to sequentially take material from all packages at once so that differences are not noticeable. Subsequently, the color of the coating will be adjusted under the sun and become more uniform.

Laying soft tiles begins from the bottom of the central part of the roof slope. The protective film is removed from the adhesive part of the sheet and it is pressed tightly to the place of fixation. Upper part additionally fixed with four nails. In this case, you need to retreat 4-5 cm from the cornice-ridge strip. The shingle shingles with their petals should completely cover its perforation. Along the edge of the pediment, the material is trimmed and glued with mastic.

An equally important stage is laying the covering in places near the ventilation. chimney and other structures. The base under the tiles in this place is treated with mastic. A corresponding hole is cut in the shingle according to the dimensions of the adjacent structure. It is fixed in place. If necessary, the base is lubricated with mastic again.

It is somewhat more difficult to lay tiles near the chimney. First, slats in the shape of a right triangle are nailed in this place. Its right angle should be facing the pipe. A lining carpet is laid in advance around the pipe itself, and at overlapping joints it is coated with mastic.

Installation of soft tiles near the chimney pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• the upper edge of the sheet is pressed against the pipe, placing it on a pre-prepared rail;
• a valley carpet is laid on top of the tile sheet;
• some of the sheets are lifted onto the pipe to a strand height of 30 cm, and the other is glued to a height of about 20 cm and nailed to the roof;
• the carpet on the pipe is covered with a junction strip or a metal apron;
• all seams are carefully treated with sealant;
• if necessary, if the roof slope is steep enough and the pipe is large, you can build an additional gutter to drain water from the chimney area.

The final stage of installation of flexible tiles

The remaining sections are covered with overlapping shingles so that the petals of the next one cover the places where the previous one is attached to the nails.

Another important step at the end of the work will be securing the ridge strip. It is divided into two equal parts along the perforation and laid on the ridge. Two nails are nailed on each side of the tile. The overlap should be at least 5 cm.

A good solution would be to lay an aerator strip, which will ensure good ventilation roof space. To create a ridge aerator, slots are cut on both sides of the strip, which are subsequently covered with aerator tape.

Professional installation of flexible tiles can be done with your own hands. If the technology is followed, the service life of the coating will be at least 35 years. If the roof is subjected to periodic inspection and minor repairs are made in a timely manner, its durability will increase by at least another 10 years.

The company’s specialists for the production of bitumen roofing coatings give their recommendations for laying flexible tiles, which are not often found in other sources.
High-quality bitumen shingles can easily last 100 years or more if they are installed correctly.
When laying flexible tiles, more attention is paid primarily to the junctions.

Correct roofing pie

Flexible tiles are laid only on a solid, level base. It is created mainly from OSB boards fixed to the rafters. Under the slabs there is usually an insulating layer, usually made of mineral wool, ventilated according to the “ventilated facade” principle, i.e. done right. This is a fundamental point, because getting the insulation wet due to the accumulation of steam in it (installation errors) is unacceptable; this will lead to wetting of the rafters and swelling of the wood with warping of the roofing.

Thermal clearances

The second thing you need to pay attention to is that OSB boards must be laid with thermal gaps between each other of 3-5 mm. Otherwise, due to thermal changes in size and movement in the rafters, destruction, warping, swelling of the base with rupture of the bitumen coating is possible.

Underlay carpet

Underlay carpet - self-adhesive bitumen materials that are used for better waterproofing places where moisture, snow, and ice accumulate - cornices (roof edges) and valleys.

Fused bitumen materials are not used here.

In these places, under the tile, a special bitumen tape of sufficient width is pre-glued to the base. Its absence often leads to leaks and wetting of the base along the eaves and valleys.

The underlay carpet along the cornice must cover the hanging cornice, the wall itself and the space inside the house at least 60 cm wide.

Galvanized nails

The bituminous shingles will come with installation instructions. Types of materials, sizes, and indentations will be indicated. These instructions must be followed exactly.

Typically, the flexible coating is additionally fixed at the edges with special galvanized nails.

Typical errors are as follows:

• Non-galvanized nails are used. As a result, strips of tiles are blown off by the wind.
• The distance between nails increases.

Fixation on gable overhangs

The edge of the gable cornice is usually decorated with a strip, which is a water stop. It is important that in this place water does not flow under the edges of the flexible tiles. For this:

This complex should prevent water from leaking under the coating, including during ice and slanting rain.

Underlay carpet at junctions

At the junctions with vertical walls To ensure that the tiles are held securely and there are no water leaks, a valley carpet is laid under it, which is glued to bitumen mastic and secured at the edges with a metal strip.

It is important to decorate the junctions with vertical surfaces with bevels (fillets).

A carpet is laid on them. At the same time, it starts.

In order for the roofing covering to last as long as possible, the installation of soft tiles must be carried out in accordance with the installation rules developed for this material. Each manufacturer has their own installation instructions, but in general, the basic rules for installation are the same.

Installation conditions

The instructions for installing bitumen tiles regulate temperature regime working with the material. It is recommended to install at air temperatures above +5 °C. Shingles are the elements that make up a flexible tiled roof, are connected to the surface of the base not only using metal fasteners, but also thanks to a special self-adhesive layer on the underside. High adhesion and tightness of the installed coating is ensured by heating from the sun's rays - the shingles are reliably soldered to the base and to each other.

If the installation of flexible tiles is carried out in cool weather, the adhesion of the sheets may not be strong enough. To heat the adhesive layer of shingles, you can use a hot-air burner (hair dryer). It is also practiced to lay the material on bitumen mastic. But difficulties may arise with the installation of the ridge covering, since the material needs to be bent. In cold weather, asphalt shingles become stiffer and more brittle, and in the process of hardening the shingles the desired shape Microcracks may appear in the material.

If roofing has to be carried out in cool weather, packages with tiles should be kept in a warm, closed room for about a day.

If it is necessary to lay roofing sheets made of bitumen piece material in cold weather, a small enclosed space is set up on the roof of the building - a slatted frame covered plastic film. To create the required temperature inside a limited volume, heat guns are used.

Base for roofing

The base for installing a bitumen piece roofing means a rafter system with a continuous sheathing. To provide correct functioning roofing pie, with inside a vapor barrier membrane is installed on the rafter legs. Insulation is laid on the outside and a diffusion membrane is attached, which removes moisture from the heat-insulating layer and does not let it inside. Counter-lattice slats are placed along the rafters on top of the membrane.

Laying soft tiles requires a flat, continuous base made of edged or tongue-and-groove boards or sheet materials - OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood. The moisture content of the lathing material should not exceed 20%.

Sheet material is stacked long side parallel to the cornice. The boards must overlap at least two purlins and be attached to each rafter leg. The joining of sheathing elements is carried out on a support, while the joints of adjacent rows of sheathing should be located on different supports.

It is important to leave an expansion joint between the elements of the sheathing - wood materials change their linear dimensions under the influence of temperature and moisture.

The roofing pie, which includes bituminous shingles, must be well ventilated. This will significantly reduce the formation of ice on the surface in winter period, since the transfer of heat from the premises of the house to the roofing will be reduced. In summer, the ventilation gap, the height of which should be at least 5 cm, reduces the temperature inside the roofing pie, resulting in less overheating of the attic space. To ensure sufficient air circulation to remove moisture from inside the roof, special holes are left in the lower part of the roof (in the eaves lining), and an exhaust duct is installed in the ridge.

Lining layer

Installation of flexible tiles requires the use of special lining material. Piece bitumen coating is used on pitched roofs with a slope angle of at least 12°. If the slope of the slopes is 12-30°, a waterproofing lining is attached over the entire surface of the continuous sheathing. A slope angle of more than 30° requires the installation of waterproofing material in the valleys, along the eaves, above the chimney pipes and ventilation slopes, in the places where the roof meets the walls, and around the attic windows. This allows you to reliably protect places where there is a high probability of snow and ice accumulation.

The principle of installation of the lining layer depends on its characteristics. The composite material made of polymer film and bitumen filler is self-adhesive: it is carefully laid on the sheathing and rolled with a roller to ensure tight adhesion and remove possible bubbles. Polyester waterproofing material is laid using bitumen mastic and additionally secured in the top and side parts at 20 cm intervals with nails with wide flat heads, which are then treated with mastic. The lining layer is formed from strips of rolled material laid parallel to the cornice. The longitudinal overlap should be 100 mm, the transverse overlap should be 200 mm.

The technology for laying soft tiles provides for certain principles for installing the lining in places where there are likely leaks. The width of the waterproofing layer is:

• for valleys - 500 mm from its axis in each direction;
• for the ridge - 250 mm;
• for end and cornice overhangs – 400 mm.

To ensure the tightness of the overlaps, they are coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of planks

To protect the sheathing from rain moisture, gable and cornice strips are installed. Installation of cornice strips (drippers) is carried out on top of the lining layer. The instructions require installation of elements with an overlap of at least 200 mm. Fastening elements should be arranged in a zigzag (in a checkerboard pattern) in 10 cm increments. Pediment strips are designed for the ends of roof slopes. Fastening is also carried out using roofing nails installed in 10 cm increments.

The valley waterproofing carpet is laid after installing the planks on the slopes. The color of the carpet is selected taking into account the color of the bitumen shingles. The material is fixed with nails in 10 cm increments. If available vertical structures on the roof slopes, a waterproofing coating is also laid around them.

If the arrangement of the chimney passage through the roof is planned to be carried out after installation finishing coating, when planning the roof, you should note the place where it will be located.

You can learn how to properly prepare a roofing system for the installation of soft tiles from the thematic video.

Installation of roofing material

First of all, the installation of cornice tiles is carried out - a special element of a soft piece roof. Not all manufacturers offer special shingles for eaves. In this case, you need to use a strip of material that is cut out from ordinary shingles - the petals are cut off from it. Stepping back 2 cm from the eaves overhang, the resulting elements are glued.

Before installation, markings must be applied to the roof. Chalk lines indicating the location of rows of material make it possible to lay shingles exactly parallel to the eaves. The vertical line marks the middle of the slope. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the covering is installed from bitumen tiles taken randomly from several packs. This allows you to level out differences in shades of the material.

Laying of flexible tiles begins from the middle of the eaves overhang - the shingles are installed to the right and left of the first. The protective film from the roofing elements is removed immediately before installation. The shingles are pressed tightly to the base, and then additionally secured with roofing nails driven in above the groove: 4 pieces for each shingle.

The first row of shingles is positioned so that their lower edge is 10-15 mm higher than the lower edge of the eaves tiles. Laying is carried out with the expectation that the petals of the bitumen elements cover the joints of the eaves shingles. The ends of the petals of subsequent rows should be above the cutouts of the previous layer or at their level. In the places where the shingles join the gable strips, the material is cut off along the edge of the roof, the edges are glued using bitumen mastic, and they need to be coated by 10 cm.

To avoid damaging the bottom layer of tiles, when cutting off excess material, you should place a small board or piece of plywood under its edge.

Arrangement of the valley

Installation of a soft tile roof requires a special approach to creating a reliable and durable valley structure. Before laying ordinary tiles, a waterproofing lining is installed under the valley, to which the flexible tiles are fused using a hot air gun or fixed using bitumen-polymer mastic.

Work on arranging the valley should begin with a slope with a flatter angle of inclination or a slope with a shorter length.

On the slope opposite to the selected one, parallel to the valley axis, at a distance of 30 cm from it, a line should be drawn. The shingles reaching this line from the first slope (with an overlap of the valley axis) are cut along the line and secured with mastic or fused with a hot air gun. All shingles that come from a gentle (or short) slope are installed using this method. Then a line is drawn on this slope, parallel to the axis of the valley and spaced 10 cm from it. The shingles reaching the line from the opposite slope are cut exactly along the line, and their top corners should be cut at approximately 60°.

Roofing nails can be used at a distance of at least 30 cm from the valley axis. Therefore, when arranging it, the material should be glued or fused.

Ridge covering

The ridge covering is laid after the installation of ordinary tiles is completed. Cornice elements can be used for these purposes. In other cases, the material is cut from ordinary shingles:

• if the shingle petals have rectangular shape, they are cut off, and the remaining wide strip is mounted on the ridge;
• The shingles, which form a pattern of hexagons when laid, are cut into hexagonal fragments, from which the ridge covering is made.

To simplify and secure work on the roof ridge, scaffolding should be installed.

Straight strips are heated with a hot air gun, bent along the axis and laid on the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm. Each strip is fixed with 4 nails.

Hexagonal fragments are mounted with the short side along the roof ridge, overlapping in the direction of the prevailing wind for the given area. The overlap should be at least 5 cm. The ribs are shaped similarly hip roofs, while the installation of elements begins from the bottom.

How to lay soft tiles

Roofing made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetically pleasing. Its big advantage is that independent installation is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to an adhesive base, and is additionally fixed with roofing nails. So you can do the installation of soft tiles with your own hands even alone.

Flexible bitumen shingles can be used on roofs of any shape

Roofing pie for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

• waterproofing is installed along the rafters;
• on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• solid flooring.

Let’s look at these materials in more detail - what and how to make them from, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes come in one, two and three layers. Single-layer membranes are the simplest and cheapest, they perform only a double task - they do not allow moisture to pass into the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only does the attic or attic become protected from the penetration of condensation or precipitation that suddenly seeps in, but it is also removed from the air excess moisture, accompanying human life. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. They are practically produced by one company - Tyvek.

The waterproofing membrane is laid over the rafter legs

Two- and three-layer membranes are more durable. In addition to the waterproofing layer, they also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if there is one, is the adsorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate forms on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and is used as insulation mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and when humidity increases by 10%, it loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under the soft tiles there is cold attic, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and the price is only slightly more expensive.

Sheathing strips are placed on top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang. They are necessary to create ventilation gap. It will maintain normal humidity of roofing materials.

The sheathing is made from edged boards 30 mm thick

The sheathing is made from boards coniferous species(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This minimum clearance, which will ensure normal air movement in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after this layer has dried, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the wood.

The minimum length of the board for sheathing is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You cannot connect them anywhere else.

The flooring for soft tiles is made continuous. The materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

• OSB 3;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• tongue and groove boards of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of no more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, gaps must be left between the elements to compensate for temperature expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. The sheet material is fastened with seams staggered, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. The OSB is secured using self-tapping screws or rough nails.

Most often, the flooring for soft tiles is made of OSB

When using boards as flooring, you must ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downward. If they are positioned in the opposite direction, they will bend in an arc, the soft tiles will lift, and the tightness of the coating may be compromised. There is one more trick that will keep the wooden flooring level even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying, the ends of the boards are additionally secured with two nails or self-tapping screws driven close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending when drying.

The choice of thickness of material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the sheathing. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring is needed. The best option- frequent pitch and thin slabs. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Sheathing and decking thickness

Another point concerns the installation of flooring under soft tiles around the chimney pipe. At brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design resembles a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

A groove that is installed behind a wide brick pipe

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length and width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides are measured, and the diagonals are measured. And the last check is plane tracking - the entire slope must lie entirely in one plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When purchasing, you will most likely be provided with instructions, in which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all exact dimensions, which this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes in advance - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

Let’s say right away that you need to handle soft tiles carefully when laying them - they don’t like being bent. Therefore, try not to bend or wrinkle the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of the bitumen shingles.

The drip strip is installed along the roof overhangs

The purpose of the drip strip is to protect the sheathing, rafter sections and flooring from moisture. One edge of the drip is placed on the flooring, the other covers the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern (one closer to the fold, the second almost at the edge). The fastener installation step is 20-25 cm.

The planks are overlapped

The drip strip is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fastened with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: coat the joint with bitumen mastic and fill it with sealant. At the same stage, the drainage system is installed; in any case, the hooks are nailed down to hold the gutters.

Laying a waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, in the valley and along the slope, a waterproofing underlay must be laid. It is sold in rolls meter width. An adhesive composition is applied to the bottom side, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed and the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Regardless of the slope, the waterproofing carpet is laid along the overhangs, in the valley and on the ridge

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material to a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is advisable to avoid joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of the two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying proceeds from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is pressed well.

The joints are coated with mastic and should not be less than 10-15 cm

Next, the waterproofing carpet under flexible tiles laid along the eaves overhang. The minimum width of a carpet on a cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The bottom edge is located on top of the drip edge and can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, trimmed if necessary, then the protective film is removed from the back and glued to the backing. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat head (step 20-25 cm).

How to determine the width of the carpet along the eaves

At the horizontal joints, the overlap of the two sheets is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, and the material is crimped.

Underlay carpet

Underlay carpet, like waterproofing carpet, is sold in meter-wide rolls, the back side is covered with an adhesive composition. The installation method depends on the roof slope and the profile of the selected bitumen shingles.

• If the slope of a soft tile roof is from 12° to 18°, the underlayment is laid over the entire roof area. Installation begins from below, from the laid waterproofing carpet. The overlap of the panels is 15-20 cm. The joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the upper edge is fixed with nails (galvanized or stainless steel) with a flat head.

With a small slope slope, the lining carpet is continuous

If the slope is more than 18°, the carpet is rolled out only in places where the roof is inflected

When using bitumen shingles with cuts (type Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the underlayment is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

How to trim carpet on a roof

Installation of underlayment often requires trimming. This is done using a sharply sharpened knife. To avoid damaging the material below when cutting, lay down a piece of plywood or OSB.

Front (end) strip

Pediment strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the shape of the letter “L”, along the bend line of which there is a small protrusion. They protect the laid roofing materials from wind loads and moisture. The gable strip is laid on the flooring on top of the underlay or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 15 cm.

Installation of the gable strip

These planks also come in 2 m pieces and are laid with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Marking the slope

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the underlayment or flooring. This is done using a paint cord. Lines along the eaves are drawn at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one shingle of flexible tiles). This markup is done easier installation- the edges are aligned using it, it’s easier to track distances.

To make installation of soft tiles easier, mark them in the form of a grid.

Valley carpet

More valley material is laid on top of the already laid waterproofing carpet. It is slightly wider and serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the bottom side, it is laid, trimmed at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Stepping back from the 4-5 cm mark, a special mastic with increased fixation, Fixer, is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed into a strip about 10 cm wide with a spatula.

The valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, cut-outs are made from valley carpet or galvanized metal painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered and treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material extends onto the pipe by at least 30 cm, leaving at least 20 cm on the roof.

The pattern is mounted first on the front part of the pipe

The pattern is coated with bitumen mastic and placed in place. The front part is installed first, then the right and left.

The front pattern rolls a little to the sides

Some of the side elements are wrapped onto the front part. The rear wall is installed in last resort. Its parts extend to the sides.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe there is a platform completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying the tiles in this place, the surface is coated with bitumen mastic.

The surface of the underlay carpet is coated with bitumen mastic

The tiles overlap the laid carpet on three sides, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

A valley carpet 8 cm wide remains around the pipe.

The upper part of the junction is sealed using a metal strip, which is attached to dowels.

Attaching the strip to the back of the pipe

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

All joints are sealed

Round pipe output

There are special passage devices for the passage of ventilation pipes. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends onto the tiles by at least 2 cm.

Place the penetration 2 cm below the edge of the tile

Having attached the passage element to the roof, trace its inner hole. Along the applied contour, a hole is cut out in the substrate into which a round pipe is inserted.

The back part of the skirt of the passage element is coated with bitumen mastic, adjusted to the desired position, and additionally secured around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is coated with mastic.

The skirt is coated with mastic

The shingles are cut as close as possible to the protrusion of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special coating that protects against ultraviolet radiation.

Start strip

Installation of soft tiles begins with laying the starting strip. Usually these are ridge-eaves tiles or row tiles with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, with its edge touching the gable strip. The lower edge of the starting strip is placed on the dropper, 1.5 cm away from its fold.

Marking for the starting line

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingles are leveled and laid. Each section of bitumen shingles is fastened with four nails - in the corners of each fragment, 2-3 cm away from the edge or perforation line.

Attaching the starting strip

If a cut of ordinary tiles is used as a starting strip, some of it will lack adhesive. In these places, the substrate is coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There are flexible tiles with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

The first row of soft bitumen shingles is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the starting strip

Before laying bitumen shingles on the roof, open several packs - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be obvious spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition adhesive composition, the tiles are also secured with roofing nails. The amount of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

• For slopes ranging from 12° to 45°, each shingle is nailed with 4 nails. The nails are nailed at a distance of 2.5 cm from the visible part of the tile. The outermost fasteners are also 2.5 cm from the cut of the shingles, the rest are between the “tiles”. It turns out that one nail “holds” two tiles.

Scheme of fastening soft tiles

Location of fasteners on steep slopes

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive the nails in correctly. The caps should press against the shingles but not break through the surface.

Valley design

Using a painting cord, mark a zone in the valley into which nails cannot be driven - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is trimmed

When laying ordinary tiles, the nails are driven as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be driven, and the shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut diagonally, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bitumen mastic and fixed with nails.

What should happen

Pediment decoration

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end strip. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - an oblique piece of 4-5 cm. The edge of the tile is coated with mastic. A strip of mastic is at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

The tiles on the pediment are cut at a distance of 1 cm from the protrusion of the pediment strip.

Ridge installation

If the flooring in the area of ​​the ridge is made continuous, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. Bituminous shingles are laid up to the beginning of the hole, after which a special ridge profile with ventilation holes is installed.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. Several elements can be used on a long ridge; they are connected end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. The protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

Installation of soft ridge tiles

Ridge tiles are ridge-eaves divided into three parts. There is a perforation on it, and the fragment is torn off along it (first bend it, press the fold, then tear it off).

The same elements can be cut from ordinary tiles. It is divided into three parts, without paying attention to the drawing. The corners of the resulting tiles are cut off - approximately 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a block and, gently pressing, bent.

Ribs and bends

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is drawn along the bend at the required distance with a paint cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. The laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then, stepping back 2 cm from the top edge, it is fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment extends 3-5 cm onto the laid one.

How to lay shingles: bitumen product

Scientific and technological progress has not bypassed any branch of human activity, including production building materials. Nowadays, there are many products that are used for roofing; soft tiles are especially popular among them. It is worth noting that any roofing material will last the entire time (or even longer) guarantee period, if the installation technology is followed. The advantages of bitumen shingles over their competitors are as follows: they forgive minor installation flaws, they can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Soft tiles can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Roof installation with soft tiles.

Laying flexible tiles in winter is not best idea, most manufacturers recommend carrying out all work at positive temperatures (from +5). The fact is that the sheet with “tiles” must be attached to a wooden base and lining carpet, the surfaces are fastened with a self-adhesive layer, the tightness of the coating is ensured only in bright sunlight, which gradually “melts” the adhesive substance. But in minus temperature you can begin preparatory work: install rafters, wooden flooring, insulate the structure, perform steam and waterproofing.

If there is no other way out and the house needs to be put into operation in winter time year, then these recommendations are especially for you! First, build a metal or wooden structure, cover it with a special noise-dustproof or simple polyethylene film. Inside, the “second roof” will be heated by diesel heat guns, so you can maintain the optimal above-zero temperature. By the way, the “warmhouse” also allows you to carry out plastering work.

Laying bitumen shingles

As a base for bitumen shingles suitable material with a flat surface (for example, OSB, tongue-and-groove plywood or edged boards) and a humidity of no more than 20%. Place the joints of the boards where the supports are located. The thickness of the plywood and boards should be optimally correlated with the pitch of the rafters; as an example, we list some values:

1. With a rafter pitch of 60 cm, the thickness of the board should be 2 cm, and the plywood should be 1.2 cm.
2. With a step of 90 cm, the thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the plywood is 1.8 cm.
3. With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the plywood is 2.1 cm.

Why is ventilation needed? There are at least two points here:

1. To reduce the formation of icicles and ice on the roof in winter.
2. To drain water from sheathing and roofing material.

Laying bitumen shingles.

Most often, a rolled insulating product is used as a reinforcing lining, which is mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm. Seal the seams with glue and secure the edges with nails in 20 cm increments. If the slope of your roof is 18 degrees or more, it is possible to install a spacer layer only in the valleys, on the eaves, near the chimneys, where the roof adjoins the vertical walls.

We install eaves strips, gables, valley carpet, ordinary tiles

To protect the sheathing from moisture, install metal eaves strips (droppers) on the eaves overhangs (at the top of the lining carpet), with an overlap of 2 cm. Nail them with roofing nails in a zigzag manner, step 10 cm. Pediment strips are also installed with an overlap, but narrower 2 cm (step – 10 cm).

To increase the waterproofness of the structure in valleys, lay a valley carpet on top of the lining layer that matches the color of the tiles. The step between the nails is 10 cm. Next, it’s up to the self-adhesive eaves tiles; lay them along the eaves overhang, joint to joint, removing the protective film. Step back 2 cm from the bend of the eaves strip, nail the elements near the perforation points, and after the fastening point, cover with ordinary tiles.

Fastening flexible tiles.

To avoid color discrepancies, it is recommended to use roofing elements mixed from several packages. Start laying ordinary tiles from the center of the eaves overhang to the end parts of the roof. Remove the protective film, place the tile in the intended place, nail the element (4 nails above the groove line; if the roof slope is more than 45 degrees, then increase the number of fasteners to six).

Start laying soft tiles so that the edge of the first row is located 1 cm higher from the bottom edge of the eaves product, and the “petals” hide the joints. The “petals” of subsequent layers should be flush with the cutouts of the elements of the previous row. At the end, cut the material along the edge and glue it (a strip of glue is about 10 cm). Leave an open strip of 15 cm at the bottom of the valley.

Ridge tiles are obtained by dividing the tiles into 3 parts at the perforation points. Install the elements with the short side parallel to the ridge, nail them with nails (two on each side). Now a little about roof passages! Antenna holes are supplied rubber seals; smoke - need to be insulated.

Consumption and method of applying sealing adhesive

For sealing overlaps of row tiles on the valley carpet and lining carpet, junctions, passages ventilation systems You need bitumen glue. Let's talk about composition consumption:

1. To process the overlaps of the underlay carpet (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue for each linear meter.
2. To process the overlaps of ordinary tiles onto the valley (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.2 liters of glue for each linear meter.
3. To glue ordinary soft tiles to the end elements (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue per linear meter.
4. To process brick walls and pipes (over the entire surface), you need 0.7 liters of glue for each linear meter.

Before work, of course, you need to clean the base from dirt, bulk materials, oils; Apply bitumen solution to dusty and porous surfaces. For glue, you will need a spatula; make the layer thickness about a centimeter. Grout joints in brickwork flush with the tiles. Gluing will already happen in 3 minutes (complete drying - from one day to two weeks), hurry up! At low temperatures, warm up the glue before applying the composition.

Caring for flexible tiles

We list the rules that will help increase the service life of the structure:

1. Check the condition of the roof twice a year.
2. Sweep leaves and other small debris from the surface with a soft brush as carefully as possible, so as not to damage the coating.
3. Ensure free flow of liquid from the roof, and do not forget to regularly clear the funnels and gutters of debris.
4. When cleaning the roof in winter, leave about 10 cm of snow on the roof, this will protect the material from frost. Do not use sharp objects to remove ice as they could damage the shingles.

How to lay soft tiles with your own hands

The technology for laying soft tiles assumes that the shingles are fastened only in sunny weather. Under no circumstances should you heat it with burners. As a last resort, it is permissible to glue the tiles with bitumen glue and try to warm up the attic space or the roofing itself using a hair dryer.

Materials and tools

For installation you will need:

• sealant or roofing mastic;
• construction strips for fixing junction points, cornice and front;
• regular galvanized and special roofing nails;
• knife for cutting shingles;
• construction hairdryer

Stages of preparatory work

Before covering the roof with soft tiles, the roof must be properly prepared.

1. A roofing pie is formed.
2. A rigid and even base made of plywood, high-quality boards or OSB boards, which is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic, is laid on top of the windproof film.
3. Under the tiles, put a lining carpet made of old roofing felt, if the roof is being repaired, or any rolled bitumen material. It is carefully nailed in places where the roof joins other architectural elements, in places where the slope breaks, along the front overhang and cornice, in valleys and along the ridge. When the slope of the roof slopes is more than 20 degrees, the material is nailed over the entire surface in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints and overlaps of the carpet sheets, it is treated with sealant or bitumen mastic.
4. A drip line (eaves strip) is nailed on top of the carpet, which will protect the sheathing structure from moisture. If, due to the architectural features of the roof and structure, it is not possible to nail it, the cornice strip is wrapped under the sheathing and fixed with nails every 5 cm.
5. Before laying soft tiles along the gable, end strips are also nailed down to protect the sheathing and help drain moisture down from the ridge.
6. Next in line are ridge-eaves shingle strips. The shingle strips are nailed end-to-end at a distance of about 2.5 cm from the edge. The joints are coated with bitumen mastic and the free edges of the strips are glued to it.
7. Next, they usually pay attention to the installation of the drain, in particular, installing brackets that will subsequently support its elements.
8. Separately, in places adjacent to walls, other slopes, ventilation pipes and other structures, in niches and other places where moisture is likely to accumulate, an additional waterproofing valley carpet is also created from bituminous materials. It is nailed with galvanized nails at intervals of 10 cm, and the edges are coated with waterproof glue or mastic.

Laying soft tiles

It is known that flexible tiles may differ in color depending not only on the batch, but also on the packaging. An important point is the need to use sheets from only one pack on each roof slope, or to sequentially take material from all packages at once so that differences are not noticeable. Subsequently, the color of the coating will be adjusted under the sun and become more uniform.

Laying soft tiles begins from the bottom of the central part of the roof slope. The protective film is removed from the adhesive part of the sheet and it is pressed tightly to the place of fixation. The upper part is additionally fixed with four nails. In this case, you need to retreat 4-5 cm from the cornice-ridge strip. The shingle shingles with their petals should completely cover its perforation. Along the edge of the pediment, the material is trimmed and glued with mastic.

An equally important stage is laying the covering in places near the ventilation. chimney and other structures. The base under the tiles in this place is treated with mastic. A corresponding hole is cut in the shingle according to the dimensions of the adjacent structure. It is fixed in place. If necessary, the base is lubricated with mastic again.

It is somewhat more difficult to lay tiles near the chimney. First, slats in the shape of a right triangle are nailed in this place. Its right angle should be facing the pipe. A lining carpet is laid in advance around the pipe itself, and at overlapping joints it is coated with mastic.

Installation of soft tiles near the chimney pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• the upper edge of the sheet is pressed against the pipe, placing it on a pre-prepared rail;
• a valley carpet is laid on top of the tile sheet;
• some of the sheets are lifted onto the pipe to a strand height of 30 cm, and the other is glued to a height of about 20 cm and nailed to the roof;
• the carpet on the pipe is covered with a junction strip or a metal apron;
• all seams are carefully treated with sealant;
• if necessary, if the roof slope is steep enough and the pipe is large, you can build an additional gutter to drain water from the chimney area.

The final stage of installation of flexible tiles

The remaining sections are covered with overlapping shingles so that the petals of the next one cover the places where the previous one is attached to the nails.

Another important step at the end of the work will be securing the ridge strip. It is divided into two equal parts along the perforation and laid on the ridge. Two nails are nailed on each side of the tile. The overlap should be at least 5 cm.

A good solution would be to lay an aerator strip, which will ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space. To create a ridge aerator, slots are cut on both sides of the strip, which are subsequently covered with aerator tape.

Professional installation of flexible tiles can be done with your own hands. If the technology is followed, the service life of the coating will be at least 35 years. If the roof is subjected to periodic inspection and minor repairs are made in a timely manner, its durability will increase by at least another 10 years.

DIY installation of soft tiles

It is recommended to lay flexible tiles at positive air temperatures, preferably more than 5 degrees. During the cold season, the base material should be heated at room temperature for 24 hours.

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Soft roofing material combines a whole group of roofs that are similar in installation technology and materials used. At its core, any soft roof is a waterproofing carpet. Such roofs include bitumen shingles, mastic materials (more details: " "), euroroofing felt, polymer membranes.

Do-it-yourself soft tiles

Bituminous shingles are used when the roof slope to the horizon is more than 12 degrees. At smaller slope angles, water will be retained in the joints between individual tiles, which will lead to rapid deterioration of the material.

It is better to install such a roof in the warm season, when the air temperature is 5 degrees or more. This requirement is due to the nature of the material itself. Blocks of tiles - shingles, attached to the base with nails or a self-adhesive layer inner surface. The tightness is ensured due to the influence of direct sunlight, which solder the individual sheets together. In the case of negative air temperatures, such an effect can hardly be achieved, and therefore the result will be a not very reliable roof. In addition, at low temperatures, bitumen shingles lose their elasticity and become brittle, which makes it impossible to create curved structures, such as a row of shingles on a ridge.

How to make a soft roof

Installing a roof is a complex task that includes whole line certain stages.

Preparing the base

Moisture-resistant plywood, OSB board or edged board are used as the foundation on which the soft roof will be laid. It is also allowed to use other building materials with a flat surface and a humidity of no more than 20%. The seams of such cladding must have a certain gap. For plywood and OSB boards, a minimum gap of 2-3 mm is allowed; for edged boards, a gap of 5 mm must be left. This is necessary so that when expanding under the influence of temperature and moisture, the base does not begin to deform. On edged boards, annual rings are centered down.

Ventilation device

This system designed to ensure proper quality of air circulation, which prevents the formation of condensation on the back side of the base. If you neglect this stage, then soon the rafter system may begin to rot, and in winter ice and icicles may form on it.

Roof ventilation includes the following elements:

• vents in eaves overhangs;
• ventilation outlets;
• the gap between the waterproofing and the base is at least 5 mm.

To ensure that the attic is properly ventilated, shingle manufacturers recommend that the vents be distributed evenly along the entire ridge.

Lining layer

Arrangement soft roof includes the organization of the lining layer. It is mounted on eaves overhangs, ends and from top to bottom. For roof slopes greater than 18 degrees, you can make a lining layer only in those places where there is the greatest likelihood of leaks. Ridges and valleys are covered with a layer 25 and 50 cm wide, respectively. In this case, the valleys are equipped with a lining layer on both sides.

For roof slopes from 12 to 18 degrees, the lining is placed over the entire roof area, starting from the bottom, moving parallel to the eaves upward. The overlap between the lining strips in longitudinal direction should be equal to 15 cm, transversely - 10 cm. Fix the lining with special nails at a distance of 20 cm from each other. To achieve better tightness of the lining layer, the overlap areas are lubricated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of cornice strips

The elements are made of metal. They are attached to the eaves overhangs directly onto the lining. Wooden strips are necessary to protect the edge of the sheathing from rain and wind. Fastening is carried out using mounting nails with a wide head at intervals of 100 mm. At the junction of the cornice strips, an overlap of at least 2 cm is made.

Installation of gable strips

As in the previous case, the slats are made of metal. They are laid at the ends of the roof on top of the lining layer. The purpose of these strips is to protect the edges of the sheathing from the ends. Fastening is carried out similarly to the strips on the cornices.

Valley carpet

Necessary for additional protection of the roof from rain and snow. Choose it to match the color of the roof. Fix the carpet with wide-headed nails. The overlap is carefully glued with bitumen mastic.

Installation of cornice tiles

When laying soft tiles, remember that before starting work you must remove the protective film from the back of the tiles. Eaves tiles are placed at a distance of 10-20 mm from the edge of the eaves (more details: " "). In this case, each element of the tile is laid exactly end-to-end.

How to lay soft tiles on slopes

Laying the main part of the roof begins from the middle of the overhang towards the ends, according to. Under normal installation conditions, each tile is fixed with four nails, but if the house is located in a region with strong winds or the slope of the roof slopes is quite steep, then it is necessary to use two additional nails in the center of each tile. This method of fastening is recommended by the manufacturers themselves - soft tiles have special perforations for nails.

I install the first row in such a way that its edge is located at a distance of no more than 10 mm from the upper edge of the eaves row of tiles (more details: " "). The joints are covered with “petals”. When laying subsequent rows, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the petals and the level of the previous row coincide. Along the edges of the roof, the tiles are cut and glued with bitumen mastic to a depth of at least 10 cm.

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the soft tiles. To do this, mark the base with chalk horizontal lines. They are used as a guide when laying rows of tiles. In case of defects in the geometry of the slopes or the presence of different additional elements(dormer windows, chimney and ventilation pipes, etc.) marking will help align the tiles in the correct, even rows.

Installation of ridge tiles

In order for the tiles to be laid on the ridge, they must be cut into three equal parts. Such elements are laid along the ridge with the short side. Each piece of tile is nailed with four nails. The next sheet is placed on the previous one with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

Euroroofing felt - do-it-yourself soft tiles

This rolled material belongs to the fused type category. It can be safely laid on roofs with zero slopes. It is only important to understand how to lay a soft roof correctly. To lay euroroofing felt, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. It must be clean and dry. In addition, the base must meet all requirements fire safety. The basis for laying such a soft roof can be any monolithic ceiling, but it must be equipped with slopes for water drainage. In addition, roofing felt can also be fused onto oriented strand board. If the roof is laid on an old roof that already has a resin cake, this will only enhance the properties of the new roof.

The prepared base is treated with special bitumen mastic. It is available in the market as a concentrate and in ready-made form. If there is already a layer of resin on the base, then there is no need to use mastic here. When buying it in a store, pay attention to the instructions on the package. It must indicate the time required for the mastic to dry completely. It is strictly forbidden to fuse roofing material before this time, as this negatively affects the quality of the resulting roof. Well, then you can do it following the instructions.

Work always begins from the point on the roof where work is carried out. Due to the fact that the drainage line runs parallel to the slope, water will not get into the joints between the individual strips of roofing material.

Laying euroroofing felt

The roll of roofing material must be unwound in such a way that it does not have folds, that is, absolutely straight. After this, you need to pull it well and fix one edge. To do this, the roofing material is heated with a burner until the indicating film on its surface melts (more details: ""). The edge of the material is glued to the base. After leveling and joining the attachment point, the roll of roofing felt is rolled tightly.

• Do not overheat the material. If you still cannot avoid this, you will have to buy a new roll of roofing felt, since overheating leads to damage to the material and inability to adhere.
• The finished surface is covered with a protective coating. It is important to exclude “bare” spots without protection.
• Strips of roofing material are fused with an overlap of at least 10 cm. For orientation, there is a special line on the strips of material.

Installation of a soft roof, detailed instructions on video:

Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the junction of the roofing material to the ventilation ducts and other roof elements. To treat such problem areas, soft roof mastic is used. After drying, it acquires the same protective properties like the euroroofing material itself.

Often, snow is able to penetrate into places where water does not reach, which is why it is so important to properly treat the junctions. If work is carried out on a roof with a large slope, then it is necessary to install snow guards (read: ""). In addition, it is necessary to take measures to prevent icing in winter, as well as to properly install drips and drainage systems.

As you can see, the technology for laying roofing felt is slightly different from the process of installing bitumen shingles (more details: " "). But in both cases, upon completion of the work, it is necessary to clean the roof of any debris and foreign objects. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, the coating may become unusable in places where it comes into contact with foreign objects.