Socket boxes are required in almost all places where electrical appliances are installed. The final appearance of the installed sockets, switches and other installation products depends on how smoothly one or more socket boxes are installed. Of course, the evenness of the installation of the socket box does not 100% decide the final result - a socket or switch can be perfectly screwed even into a crookedly “grown” socket box. However, this does not mean that you can be irresponsible about “smearing” round installation boxes (This official name socket boxes).

Crooked installed socket box can cause a lot of suffering during the final installation of installation products. Therefore, smooth installation of installation boxes is strongly recommended.

By the way, socket boxes do not always have rounded shape- there are square installation boxes designed for four modules, two in a row. And in general, there are models rectangular shape, according to their purpose, replacing several single socket boxes in a row. However, the most common are the round ones, so we will focus on them.

At first glance, install the socket box in concrete wall seems like a simple matter. In principle, this is true; anyone can “smear” the installation box. The only point that many people have difficulty with is the evenness of installation, especially of several combined socket boxes.

The method that I want to describe is far from new. These few additional operations will allow you to efficiently install several socket boxes in a row in any walls - concrete, brick, aerated concrete.

First stage - marking, you need to outline the horizontal and vertical axes each socket. When installing several boxes in a row, you need to maintain between them correct distance so that future socket or other modules are installed correctly. The optimal distance between axes (centers) is considered to be 71 mm, however, there are products whose connecting elements contain a distance of 70-72 mm. When installing 2-3 socket boxes, this does not matter much, but for 5 boxes in a row, every millimeter is important.

Before installing 5 points in a row (vertical or horizontal), you should clarify the specific size of the installed electric points of a particular series. The best way is to assemble the socket boxes on the table in a row using connectors (usually included with the boxes) and screw all 5 sockets (or switches). Then you will know whether the axle size is correct or not. Often, 5 socket boxes in a row may not correspond to the size of five sockets. If there is no opportunity to try on the sockets, a distance of 71 mm is maintained between the axes.

If the outer width of the box is 70 mm. (with a front border) - such socket boxes can be installed without problems with a distance between the axes of 71 mm. If the width is 72 mm, then it will be difficult to “narrow” the axes of the boxes. For 2-3 modules in a row, you can maintain a distance of 72 mm, but for 5 in a row it is better to choose other products.

So, the axes are marked - socket boxes can be mounted in both vertical and horizontal rows. But some series of rosettes are not designed to form vertical rows (rare, but it happens), so you need to clarify this point.

The second stage is the selection of holes for installation. In concrete, this can be done with a diamond bit for a high-speed drill or grinder. An easier way is to drill holes in a circle with a small drill and knock out the middle with a hammer drill. The optimal hole diameter is 75 mm. - then any socket box will fit in freely and there will be a gap for putty. The depth of the hole is about 50-60 mm, the box must fit completely into the wall. A cleanly installed socket box should be flush with the final putty of the walls or slightly recessed relative to the plane of the wall.

For brick, plaster and other softer walls (relative to concrete), a hammer drill bit is suitable. This crown can also drill concrete walls, but then its service life is greatly shortened. In brick walls it is drilled with impact, in foam concrete and plaster - in drilling mode without impact.

When the hole is made, a socket box (or a group of socket boxes) is fitted into it; if everything fits in without problems, it is swept and primed.

Next stage- creation of patterns. Many installation boxes are equipped with connecting elements for combining into groups. Connectors can be structurally part of the socket box or equipped with a separate part. In our installation method, connectors are completely unimportant, they may not exist at all. The role of a reference template that maintains the required distances between the mounting screws is played by a homemade pattern.

Any piece of profile, for example PN27X28, is suitable for making patterns. Holes for the fastening screws of each socket box are marked and drilled in the profile, so that there is a distance of 71 mm between the left screws of the first and second boxes (and all subsequent ones). Well, the distance between the screws in one box is 60 mm.

The pattern profile must be longer than the entire group of socket boxes so that there is room to attach to the wall. For this, holes are also drilled in the profile. Next, all the boxes are screwed into the pattern from the flat side; for this, screws are used that come with the socket boxes.

The assembled structure is tried on in a pre-prepared recess. Nothing should prevent the profile from fitting tightly to the plane of the wall.

Well, the final operation is smearing. Suitable for fixing socket boxes in concrete, aerated concrete and brick wide list materials. This can be a gypsum mixture: alabaster, thick fugen, rotband or goldband and others. Quite suitable and cement mixtures, including tile adhesive. The most important thing is that thanks to the template, the putty does not need to set quickly.

The putty is filled into the prepared hole and the socket boxes are pressed in from above. It is necessary to press until the plane of the template profile fits snugly against the plane of the wall. The pattern is aligned to the horizontal axis of the group of socket boxes (or to the vertical axis when forming a vertical row) and, after drilling holes, it is fixed to the wall. All excess putty that has come out from under the boxes is removed with a small spatula. Putty will also definitely get inside the socket boxes - it can be removed without problems after removing the template.

When applying it, it is important to ensure that not a single socket sticks out from the plane of the wall. If some boxes fell a little deeper than the plane of the wall (which is unlikely), it’s okay.

After the putty mixture has set, the template-pattern is unscrewed, and the remaining sagging is cleaned off with a spatula. Installation completed!

For those who love “reliable reliability”, we can recommend additional reinforcement of the fastening using self-tapping screws. A hole is drilled in the wall right through the bottom of the socket box and a self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel is screwed in. In walls made of foam concrete and aerated concrete, there is no need for preliminary drilling - the self-tapping screw is screwed in just as it is. It is convenient to use self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Whatever one may say, the putty mixture usually gives some shrinkage, so the place where it is applied requires finishing putty. That's why the best solution Electrical installation will be carried out until the final plastering of the walls.

Tip: Mounting screws get lost all the time when it comes to final installation of outlets and switches. Therefore, it is recommended to tighten the screws in place immediately after removing the template. And so that they don’t interfere finishing puttying- the screws are tightened deeper than the plane of the wall.

How to install socket boxes before plaster

In general, it is easier to install using finished plaster, but installing socket boxes before plaster no one forbids it. Another thing is that it is a little more complicated.

In order to properly position the installation boxes before plastering, it is necessary to have already installed plaster beacons. When substituting the rule for beacons, you need to control that the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the future plastered wall. It’s best to even deepen the boxes a little relative to the rule by 1-2 mm, then you probably won’t have any problems with pulling plaster mortar rule.

The smearing algorithm is practically no different from the one described above, the only difference is that the template is not attached to the wall tightly, but taking into account future layers. By controlling the plane using the beacon rule, a template bar is set. Some wedges are inserted between the template and the wall. After the fastening solution has set, the fastening screws are removed or sunk deeper, the protruding wires are neatly rolled up in the sockets themselves.

With this order of work, you need to carefully ensure that the top and bottom of the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the beacons. To solve this problem, it is better to use a wide strip for making patterns.

Installation of boxes for non-modular devices

Similar situations happen rarely, but can bring a lot of difficulties if they are not taken into account. If non-modular sockets or switches (which do not fit into a common frame) will be installed in one row, then between them it is necessary to maintain minimum distance. Otherwise, further installation will be impossible!

As an example of such a scheme, you can take a cheap thermostat for an electric heated floor - this product is not modular and does not fit into a common frame with other sockets. Of course, there are thermostats suitable for general frames, but they are more expensive and are tied to a certain collection of installation electrics. Therefore, if you use a device without a common frame, it is imperative to maintain the distance!

So, the vast majority of sockets, switches, thermostats and others, in their finished form, have a width of 86 mm. Accordingly, between boxes for non-modular sockets there must be a minimum distance (along the axes) of 86 mm. But this is if it’s “grinding in” and not exactly, what if the switch turns out to be wider? Therefore, it is better to make the minimum distance between the axes of the installation boxes 90 mm. or more.

Well, the article has come to an end. It is more than enough for installing socket boxes in concrete and other materials.

In this article we will examine in detail the question of how to install socket box on concrete. Having in hand well-written instructions, supplemented detailed photos and comments from a specialist, resolving this issue will not pose any difficulties for you. is the foundation of installation
electrical wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be given special attention.

Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:

1. Socket boxes for concrete - used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.The installation of the socket box is carried out in a pre-prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of plaster or alabaster.
2. Socket boxes for plasterboard - used for installation in plasterboard, chipboard, various types of plywood, SML sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket box using the spacer tabs available on it into a pre-prepared hole. You can read the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.

In this article, we will examine in detail how socket boxes are installed on concrete.

Making the markings

Before installing the socket box, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.

Some standards that electricians often use are listed below:

• sockets in living rooms- 30 centimeters from the clean floor (the so-called “Euro standard”);
• sockets above kitchen countertop- 110-120 centimeters;
• socket above washing machine- 1 meter;
• switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.

However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you wish, according to your taste and discretion.

Let's start installation. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we add +5 centimeters to our dimensions for screed and laminate (linoleum).

For the switch, you can use the hand measuring technique. Approach the place of planned installation, place your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take the average arm length.

Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the socket box. If you plan to install the switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge; 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.

Now, mark all the dimensions with a pencil on the wall.

The marking is completed.

Making a hole for the socket box

All concrete sockets are mounted into the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways in which it can be made. We will look at three of the simplest and most effective.

Method 1. Crown for concrete sockets

The main device for making holes for socket boxes in concrete is a concrete and brick drill bit with a diameter of 70 millimeters.

The standard diameter of the socket is 67 millimeters; some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.

Rice. Crown for socket boxes on concrete

According to the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for socket boxes for concrete has Pobedit teeth, with which it cuts a circle; in the middle there is a Pobedit drill for centering. The crown is installed on a hammer drill or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with impact, a hole is made.

We move the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.

The crown should be completely recessed into the wall.

To facilitate the drilling process, you can first drill a centering hole in the center of the marking of the future socket box with a regular Pobedit drill; in this case, it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.

We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using an impact bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.

We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket box, in which we used a crown for socket boxes for concrete. Let's consider the following method.

Method 2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill

In order to use this method, the first thing you need to do is outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.

Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will be to clean the hole from the wall elements later.

Now, it's up to a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit. We bring the hole to the required size.

Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)

This method is the fastest of all the above, but also the dustiest. I don’t think there’s much need to explain its meaning. It is especially suitable, for example, when installing socket boxes in a concrete wall is required.

The execution process is simple, we take an angle grinder (angle grinder) and off we go.

We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined socket box. Be careful with the wire.

After everything is cut, we knock out the squares from the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket box, so when using this method, be prepared to knock a little.

We adjust the hole to the size of the socket box

After making the hole, we check how the socket box fits into it. Since the diameter of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.

The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket box falls into it a little, about 4-5 millimeters. This reserve is necessary because, in addition to the socket box itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be placed inside the hole, and some space will also be needed for bending the wire entering the socket box.

To make the following stages of work easier after installing the socket box, I recommend cutting off the edges of the made hole. This action can be performed using a knife. Due to the manipulations we have performed, the socket box will be sunk into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform an ideal installation of a socket or switch by maximally pressing its metal mounting frame, and therefore the plastic decorative frame, against the wall. As a rule, a non-recessed socket skirt can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.

Now, you need to insert the wire into the socket box; to do this, we make a small groove for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a groove using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bit. Soft material You can even chop walls with a chisel. In our example, this is exactly what we use.

The strobe is ready.

The wire should be easy to install without interfering with the electrical outlet.

Now, turn the socket box over. On its back we see specially prepared slots for the wire.

Select the one you need and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to run the wire from the back of the socket box; this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and protect the wire from damage.

The hole is made.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.

Nothing should interfere and let me remind you, there should be a reserve of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.

Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to preparing the gypsum solution.

Preparation of gypsum solution

To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.

For our purposes you can use:

• building gypsum
• medical plaster
• alabaster

Pour a small amount of gypsum into a container.

You should get a homogeneous, creamy mixture of medium thickness.

The resulting solution has a very short time for use; literally after 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will no longer be suitable for use.

Installation of a socket box

Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket box in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be thoroughly moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and washes away fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed for 2-3 minutes.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should cover well back wall the socket box being squeezed out of the slots of the holes.

We align it so that the screws are located horizontally to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation depth by placing a level with the flat side to the wall diagonally across the socket box. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with installing the socket or switch.

The main fixation has been completed, so we do not move the glass of the socket box anymore, otherwise the solution will not set and the socket box will not be properly fixed.

Now, we make additional fixation by placing the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket box. You need to not just coat the solution around, but rather put it in the gaps.

Now, you can smear it around.

The socket is installed.

We wait completely dry and only then remove the excess solution that got inside the socket box. When dry, it separates well from the plastic.

I would like to note that the installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is carried out similarly to the example discussed. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with an angle grinder (angle grinder), method 3.

The next step is, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.

If you are interested in more detailed description connections and installations various elements electrical wiring (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including backlit ones, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom) you might be interested in.

How to install a double socket box

To install two sockets in one frame, the installation of two socket boxes is required. Let's take a closer look at how it's done this type installation

Docking with each other is done using a connector (butterfly).

There are special grooves on the side of the socket boxes into which they are inserted.

In this way you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.

For our example, we only need two. We make markings. We measure the distance from the floor.

Using the level on required height draw a straight horizontal strip.

Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.

The difference from installing a single socket box is that after making the hole, you need to connect the two holes to each other. This is done so that the connector connecting the two socket boxes fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.

After making the holes, just as in the example of installing a single socket box, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the groove.

The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to a single socket box.

The last point that is worth paying special attention to is the strict approach to aligning them horizontally when fixed with plaster. It is necessary to plant on a gypsum solution only with a level; the greater the number of socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.

The installation of various electrical wiring elements is described in as detailed and colorful a manner as possible.

To complete the work we used:

Material

• plaster, alabaster
• socket box

The socket box is a special tool mounted in various designs, it is used to install sockets and switches. The question is how to install the socket box so that there are no problems in the future. repair work when old switches need to be replaced.

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Types of socket boxes

First, you need to decide what types of socket boxes there are. They are usually divided into two groups:

• For concrete walls - such products are intended for concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete and block expanded clay walls. For such socket boxes, you need to prepare a hole for installation in advance, and fix them with a solution.
• On a plasterboard wall - such products are intended for plasterboard walls, chipboard structures, and plywood structures. Such socket boxes are secured using spacer tabs into the mounting holes.

After choosing a socket box, you need to do the preparatory work.

Preparatory work

It consists of assessing the wall on which the socket box will be mounted, as well as selecting the product itself according to size, shape, and material from which it is made. All these parameters are completely different.

There are situations when you need to install a single unit (these are several socket boxes interconnected). At the same time, it is important to remember about the center-to-center distance (i.e., the distance between the centers of the socket boxes) and the same diameter of the products themselves.

Note!

The installation itself solid block It is carried out according to the same principle as installing a conventional socket box.

The next step is the installation of socket boxes.

Hole for socket box

Installation tools and choice of installation method

The socket box is installed using the following tools:

• Pencil with ruler
• Concrete drill,
• Chisel with hammer
• Crowns for drilling concrete (the diameter of the crown must correspond to the diameter of the socket),
• Grinder (plus a blade for concrete),
• Construction or medical plaster, alabaster,
• Paper knife,

After preparing the tools, you need to choose a method for installing the socket box, or rather, how to prepare a recess for the socket box. There are three such ways:

1. punch the right place in brick, concrete or gas concrete structure, and then secure it with mortar,
2. arrange a niche in plasterboard wall or plywood structure and secure the socket box with special paws,
3. Instead of a socket box, use a mounting pad as a base for a switch or socket.

Having chosen the installation method, you can begin marking the wall for the future outlet.

How to mark up correctly?

Before you begin the installation, you need to use a pencil and a ruler to mark the place where the socket box will be located (a cross of two lines with right angles). All measurements are taken from the covered floor, otherwise you need to add about 5 cm more. When making markings, professional electricians adhere to certain standards:

• in rooms, sockets are installed thirty cm from the floor,
• in the kitchen the socket is installed about 120 cm from the countertop,
• switches are installed 90 cm from the floor.

You do not have to follow these rules exactly, and the markings can be applied to suit your requirements. Also, if you don’t have a hammer drill or grinder, you don’t have to immediately run to the store and buy one, because such a purchase will be quite expensive. Tools can be rented.

You can also measure the location for the switch using your own hand. To do this, you just need to go to the wall, lower your hand and make a note in a more comfortable position. If this switch is intended for several people, then the distance can be calculated by medium length hands.

Install the socket box at a convenient level

Installation of a socket box in concrete

Installation of a socket box in a concrete wall is done using a special solution (gypsum or alabaster are suitable for this purpose), but before that you need to drill the place where the socket box will be located. There are several ways to do this.

One of them is to install using a crown (a special tool in the shape of a piece of pipe), the size of which is 70 mm. The socket box is usually 67 mm in diameter, sometimes a little larger. Along the circle, the crown is equipped with pobedit teeth (cutting segments made of hard alloy), with the help of which the circle is cut. Using this crown and a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in a concrete structure. This must be done carefully so as not to touch the wire. You need to drill until the crown is completely in the wall.

Note!

To make it easier for the crown to cut through the wall, you can use a drill to make a hole in the center.

After this, the crown is pulled out, and the hole itself is refined in depth using an impact bit or chisel.

The second method is to drill a hole for the socket box using a drill or hammer drill with a Pobedit drill bit. To do this, the socket itself is applied to the wall and outlined. Then, using an impact drill or hammer drill, you need to drill several holes: in the center and in a circle. The holes should go as deep into the concrete as possible and be close to each other. After this, all that remains is to make a hole of the required size.

The third method is the fastest, but also the dustiest. It will require a grinder. First you need to do appropriate markup: we already have a cross, now we need to draw a rosette on the wall and draw four lines, making a square out of a circle. Then the only thing left to do is walk the grinder along all the marked lines. The main thing here is not to touch the wire. After this, all that remains is to finish the hole according to required size chisel

The photo shows the installation of a socket box in a concrete wall

Adjusting the space for the socket box

After preparing the place, you need to check whether it suits the socket. If the hole is made with a crown, then the width will be fine, you don’t have to worry about it. Here you need to look at the depth. The depth of the hole should be such that the socket box falls down there by about five millimeters. At the same time, it’s worth remembering one little trick: there is an edge on the socket box that is better to cut off. This way, the socket box will fit completely into the hole, which will allow the decorative frame of the switch to fit snugly against the wall without leaving a gap. After the socket box is installed, a groove is made in the structure to insert the wire into the product. WITH reverse side The socket box has slots for wires. You need to insert the wire into this slot, and then install the socket box into the hole. Now all that remains is to tell you how to secure the socket box in the wall.

Making a solution and fixing the socket box

To prepare a gypsum solution, you need to take a container, pour gypsum into it and, stirring constantly, add water. As a result, you need to get a homogeneous creamy mass. You need to start working with the solution immediately, otherwise it will harden after five minutes. With this solution the socket box is fixed in the hole. Before installation itself, you need to wet everything in the hole well and wait for the water to be absorbed.

After this, you need to apply the solution into the hole with a spatula, and insert the socket into it, not forgetting about the wire. You need to insert it so that it does not stick out, so that later there will be no lump and unnecessary problems. After this, you need to fill all the side cracks with the solution and putty around it.

Installing a socket box in drywall is even easier. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the drywall the size of a socket box. After this, it is fixed in the wall with spacer legs. Now you need to start puttingty seat(special place for installing a socket box) so that the structure is durable. This installation does not require many tools; all work can be done with a knife, screwdriver and spatula.

An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of sockets. According to all the rules, at this stage a box for an outlet is required, which is one of the main elements of installation and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple electrical element allows you to repair or replace the outlet.

Socket boxes and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket box is and what it is needed for. This question may arise only if repairs with a change in wiring are necessary. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. Minor repairs With the change of installation boxes for sockets, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

The socket box is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Necessary for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is covered with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, which is why not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can’t just place the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, it is necessary that the socket complex is assembled with high quality and works perfectly.

Other purposes of socket boxes include:

1. Guarantee of strong fixation of the mechanisms of sockets, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by screws of the socket box or spacer legs of the installed devices.
2. Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the socket (switch) and the wall of the room.
3. Performing the distribution function. boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
4. Implementation additional protection from accidental fire.

To mounting box for sockets and switches corresponds to the listed functions, you should approach the choice responsibly. This will serve as a guarantee for the future uninterrupted operation devices and electrical network.

Choosing the right boxes for sockets

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several types. Similar classification necessary for their proper installation with the subsequent implementation of the purposes listed above.

Exists whole line classification parameters, among which several main ones should be highlighted.

By type of installed surface

Socket boxes may be necessary for installation in various rooms, made from different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

According to this parameter, their design may differ in some way. For example, a box for mounting in plasterboard has additional tabs for secure fastening.

According to the material of manufacture

Socket boxes can be plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a wide range of models and shapes:

1. Round - have become widespread. It is easy to make a hole in the wall for them and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
2. Oval - characterized by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wires necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
3. Square - they have a large amount of space for wires and allow the installation of dimmer elements, “ smart home"and a number of other devices. Capable of holding up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal socket boxes are not widely used because they are conductors electric current. But this is the option of choice in houses made of wood.

By number of sockets

Single boxes designed for mounting single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket boxes is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - internal diameter and depth (40 – 60 mm). Additionally there is an installation diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best option The choice is the socket box, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If it is necessary to carry out wiring without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is suitable.

List of necessary tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work necessary list tools are usually at hand. But even minor repairs require preliminary selection of tools.

For installation of the liver socket box necessary tools should be presented as follows:

1. Level with pencil and compass. Necessary for marking the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if installation is necessary).
2. Drill. Required for making holes for boxes. The drill will need crowns for drilling - if they are missing, a concrete drill will do. If you don’t have a drill, a hammer drill or grinder will do.
3. Hammer with chisel. They will be needed at the stage of forming holes to knock out excess pieces of the wall.
4. Spray. It will be needed during drilling to water the crown, it will prevent cracking tiles and prevent dust from flying away.
5. Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of attaching boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about socket outlets, the presence of which must be ensured before performing the listed actions.

Installation of socket boxes in rooms made of various materials

The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets and subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the wall material, the installation procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for indoor walls, so the installation of socket boxes in this case is worked out to the smallest detail:

1. Carrying out marking. A serious stage, especially when installing several socket boxes, where the same level of location is especially important.
2. Making holes. The diameter of the holes for sockets must exceed the diameter of the installed socket by 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a crown or a pobedite tip. You need to drill holes around the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out the inner part (if you don’t have a hammer drill or drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
3. Trying on the box. A proper installation must be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the pre-prepared holes.
4. Installation process. You need to place a layer of putty in the hole so that the glass fits. After installation, you need to leave everything for a few minutes for the solution to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part from the wall.

If the fixation is insufficient, the socket box should be additionally secured with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in brickwork similar to installation in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed with outside the walls are flush. It is necessary to take into account that an additional layer of plaster and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom) will be laid on the wall. It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket box should be pulled out from the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

• make a recess (diamond, pobedite);
• hide the wire in the hole and cover it with a lid (for example, made of cardboard);
• putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay tiles);
• proceed to the first stage of installation of the socket box (after the tile adhesive and plaster have dried), carefully drilling holes at the required coordinates.

Subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket boxes in concrete.

Gas silicate

When installing socket boxes in gas silicate blocks it's worth preparing for a large number dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in finishing walls made of gas silicate, phased implementation installation of socket boxes is similar to that when installing them in brick walls. The only caveat is that the holes should be made using a drill with an inventory drill. An impact drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to comply with all safety requirements.

Mounting boxes in PVC and MDF panels and more

The number of different materials used in modern construction, amazes.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of installing socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a hammer drill and mortar are not required. The work will be completed several times faster compared to installing socket boxes in walls made of concrete or brick.

You need to purchase special boxes that have additional legs to ensure best mount to a sheet of drywall. After marking, you can make holes using a drill with a crown or a regular drill. Then you need to bring the wire out and thread it into the socket box, and then insert it into the hole. The bolts from the adjustment tabs should be tightened on it.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the inside of the drywall. All other steps (attaching the socket mechanism) are standard.

Tree

Performance hidden wiring in a house made mainly of wooden components is not a cheap pleasure. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with wood.

Standard plastic socket boxes are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an electrical arc in the event of a short circuit.

Wires during installation should be laid in iron pipes, and carefully seal the joints with the socket box. We should not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. To provide additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be lined with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as places for installing sockets.

To implement this process quickly, you need to buy boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fastening, you should buy self-tapping screws. At the assembly stage, the power cable should be laid in advance.

The holes for the socket boxes in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They must be strictly sized so that the socket fits quite tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. After this, you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.

When installing a whole complex of devices, you should always maintain a distance between sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to the millimeter, you can make an original template yourself. To do this, you need to take any rigid material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark in the center of the rib where the socket boxes will be attached.

To do this, you need to find the center using a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. You need to drill holes along the finished line with a metal drill. Then you need to use a tape measure to measure the distance between the holes of the box and drill a second point according to it. Make holes for the remaining boxes in the same way. In order not to perform so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for socket boxes.

Conclusion

The glass under the socket greatly simplified the process of installing various electrical sockets. Allows you to mount sockets into the wall without any problems, making them almost invisible. This allows them to fit harmoniously into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket boxes allow you to repair electrical sockets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the immediate process of installing electrical outlets.

An auxiliary but integral element of the electrical system are socket boxes. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities to accommodate hidden wiring. It allows you to hide wires and contacts not only of sockets, but also of switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, heated floor). Correct installation– a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic – a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.

Preparatory activities imply not only taking a number of pre-installation actions, but also purchasing certain materials and tools in advance. To work you will need:

• alabaster/plaster;
• primer;
• putty knife;
• hammer/drill;
• drill/drill 8 mm thick;
• diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket box is standard);
• special spatula or chisel + hammer;
• building level;
• marker/pencil;
• ruler/hard tape measure;
• indicator screwdriver;
• sandpaper;
• cable/wire products;
• the electrical device itself (if it is a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.

Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work necessary by marking the area where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of the future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on the concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If you plan to install a block, then the center of the outermost fixture is initially marked on the surface. A line is subsequently drawn through it along the level, equal to length the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the remaining electrical installation products.

Drilling holes for socket boxes

It is best to use a hammer drill for this. Using it, you will need to drill a hole in the intended center by placing the drill. Afterwards, the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked outline appears, the drill is removed from the equipment by unscrewing the bolt. Next, the crown is put on the hammer again, on which a mark must be made indicating the depth to which it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle is changed again. This time, a spatula is put on the hammer drill and the excess concrete is knocked out. If it is not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and hammer are used.

In situations where there is neither a hammer drill nor a drill available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating sections that have different directions in the marking areas. Afterwards, pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.

Guide to installing socket boxes in the wall

Having drilled a hole and punched grooves into it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed with direct electrical installation. For this purpose, you should place a socket box in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly secured and not tilted at all. Then you need to insert the wires supplying the future device into the hole located in the background.

The next goal is to securely fasten the box to the wall:

1. clean the base from dust;
2. treat the hole with a primer, which will ensure durability;
3. dilute the plaster/putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of construction/medical plaster, it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy, homogeneous consistency is formed);
4. Apply the composition inside the hole with a spatula;
5. put the socket box in the socket and press it into the solution (it should come out concrete surface through the slots).

It is important to carry out installation extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in literally 2-3 minutes. The product must be aligned so that the screws are horizontal to the floor and the box is completely recessed into the base. Check for correctness with a level applied diagonally to the device. It cannot be moved in the future: the plaster/alabaster must harden completely. Excess that comes out is removed.

If dips, chips, or potholes appear in the concrete for the socket box after completion of the work, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled using sandpaper. Final stage – finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, etc.).

Possible mistakes

Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with unpleasant consequences. The most common problem is the product falling out or poor fixation in the wall. If this happens, you can cope with the problem in 2 ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket box;
• Using a glue gun, securely secure the box in the slot.

Another common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket/switch. Hazardous potential exists on the device housing, which could lead to short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket box should not interfere at all future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.

1. Switches and socket boxes can be installed anywhere. The main thing is to comply with one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be at least 1 m from the selected installation point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet; electrical devices cannot be installed at all due to danger.

2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum/alabaster only for small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.

3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when it comes time to repair contacts.

4. If we're talking about about installing 1-2 socket boxes, then buying a diamond crown will be a pointless waste of money. It would be more appropriate to replace it with attachments equipped with pobedit teeth, or even use a grinder with a disc.

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