Heating a house in winter using stove heating is suitable for those who have a country house. This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to build a stove with your own hands, but by carefully studying the laying diagrams of brick stoves, it is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this matter - a stove maker. He will tell you which masonry is suitable in a particular case.

Main types and structure of brick kilns

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron stove;
3. Cleaning door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick kilns:

1. Heating stoves. The brickwork layout of the heating stove is very simple, which is why installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
2. The most common and popular type of stoves is heating and cooking stoves. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for bricklaying stoves. The main design elements of any furnace are:

• Firebox– where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on what fuel will be used. For its installation, only fire-resistant bricks are used, since they are in direct contact with fire.
• Chimney– designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have large quantity bends, if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room is heated.
• Ash pan chamber or ash pan- also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash, a product of burning wood and coal, accumulates in the ash pan. Through the ash pan, air enters the firebox, as a result of which the draft improves, and hence the quality of heating of the home. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy cleaning of ash.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence of a hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: masonry features

Drawings of brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such stoves directly depend on the size of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of a sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The procedure for laying stoves with your own hands should be discussed with a professional, because for sauna stoves safety comes first

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill of boulders (heater), 5 - valve, 6 - door for supply, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (planks, logs) on waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the design of sauna stoves:

1. The firebox in a sauna stove must be large. The ash door and it itself must be large to ensure good air flow into the firebox.
2. The grate bars need to be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the difficulty of purchasing long grate bars, most often you have to buy small grate bars and lay them across.
3. If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by fireproof materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
4. If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the latter should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
5. Before laying a brick sauna stove on the mortar, it is better to lay the rows dry first. And only after they have been leveled, use the mixture for masonry.
6. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked using a level. If minimal deviations in the masonry are found, they need to be corrected.
7. All doors must be properly secured. For this purpose, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
8. The area where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling or wall must be insulated with fire-resistant material.
9. When mixing the mixture for masonry, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

Square oven with bottom heating

Distinctive feature of the design square oven With bottom heating, is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two voids are symmetrically located for the release of gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the furnace. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the cavities form an upper cap, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and cooled combustion products are discharged through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. After which they are taken outside.

For heating a room with a stove of this device You can use any type of coal and firewood. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the firebox must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The layout of a bottom-heated furnace consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A special feature of the design of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no circulation of gases in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not by draft. Heavy cold gases go down, and light heated gases go up.

The design of this furnace consists of two parts:

1. The upper chamber in which smoke does not circulate. It is similar to an inverted glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called ductless and bell-type.
2. The lower section is a firebox, in the roof of which there is a hole (higho) for venting smoke and gases into the upper section.

Heated flue gases do not move from the high to the chimney; they reach the ceiling, and after they cool down, they fall down to the base of the firebox. From there they will go into the chimney and out.

Do-it-yourself brickwork for this stove is quite simple. The advantage of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo stove is that it takes a long time to cool and uses 80% of the heat that produces fuel during combustion.

For the furnace designed by V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and lean hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the cracks between the buttresses become clogged with soot. Cleaning soot is a rather complicated process, because through the cleaning doors it is difficult to reach into all the cracks.

Two-tier stove for the home: masonry and features

Layout diagram for a two-tier oven for a home. Typical.

A two-tier oven is essentially two identical ovens located one above the other. To facilitate the design and save materials, empty chambers are laid out between the furnaces. The masonry that fills the gap between the two structures serves as the foundation for the upper one.

The stove chimney pipe, which is located at the bottom, passes through the top one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is removed separately. Laying a two-tier oven is quite simple to do. The doors for cleaning furnaces from soot are located: in the back - in the bottom, and in the side wall - in top structure. As fuel, it is best to use anthracite or hard coal.

When covering the top of empty chambers, a reinforced concrete slab is often used. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Laying bricks for the stove must be done very carefully. After all, in the event of a malfunction, repairs will be difficult.

A two-tier stove is ideal for a two-story country house. For its design, you can use stove diagrams that are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instructions for laying a two-tier stove

What is best to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - furnace hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wash brush; g - pliers;
z - cycle; and - snitch; k - scriber; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

In most cases, refractory fireclay bricks are used to lay out furnaces. Its main advantage over other bricks is that, although it takes a long time to heat up, it retains heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When doing this, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If a brick is fired too much, its fire resistance and quality are reduced. This type of brick is best used for laying out the base of the furnace. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. As facing material Ceramic brick is suitable.

Cannot be used for laying structures sand-lime brick. It does not adhere to the solution, and under thermal loads it absorbs moisture.

Brick laying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask a specialist for help.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created to last for many years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools needed for laying a brick structure:

1. Trowel for laying out mortar.
2. Hammer-pick, for leveling and splitting bricks, if necessary.
3. Shovel for mixing mortar.
4. Grooves for aligning convex and concave seams.
5. An ordering tool for checking the evenness of laying rows of bricks.

Basic principles of masonry brick structures:

• Bricks need to be laid only one at a time. For inexperienced people, it is better to lay out a row without a solution and only then use the mixture.
• Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and crumbs using a brush.
• For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is dipped briefly in water.
• Fireclay bricks should never be wetted with water!
• After laying, the brick cannot be moved or tapped, so it must be laid in one confident movement.
• If it is not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the mortar is cleaned.
• The solution that has been cleaned can no longer be used.

Now more and more people are choosing stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the cost-effectiveness of this heating method. It is in pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that more and more new stove designs are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for your particular home.

The disadvantage of the stove is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the firebox. But, when using high-quality materials and choosing the right design that is suitable for your home, the need for constantly adding fuel is significantly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.

As a rule, small brick kilns are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having first studied the technology of laying stoves.

Choosing a brick oven for your home

First you need to decide on the specific type of oven. And for this, study in detail existing types ovens and choose the most suitable option for yourself:

1. Dutch channel ovens They are small in size and quite simple to construct. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These ovens operate in slow burning mode.
2. Swedish chamber-channel brick kiln has a higher efficiency compared to Dutch ones. dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complex in execution. In addition, all building materials for this furnace must be selected more carefully.
3. Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a stove is very complex, and you are unlikely to be able to do it without the help of professionals.
4. Brick heating and cooking stove- a more common and simpler heating option. This stove requires a small amount of building materials, and you can make a simple design yourself.

If this is your first time building a stove, then choose a Dutch oven or a brick kiln for self-construction, because building Swedish stoves is more difficult and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself.

The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. IN small house the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.

The main condition for the placement and construction of the furnace is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the furnace should cover a large number of rooms.

If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in water heating coils. With this type of stove, the remaining rooms will be heated with special ones.

Brick for laying the furnace

For an extended service life and proper operation of the stove, it is necessary to carefully select building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide warmth in your home, also depend on your choice.

For a Swedish stove it is very important to choose high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove the quality requirements are not so high.

Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today we can distinguish 2 main types:

• red ceramic brick, grade 150;
• Fireclay fire-resistant brick.

• The bricks must be the same size;
• The use of hollow bricks or sand-lime bricks is strictly prohibited. A solid ceramic brick is required;
• For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
• For the combustion chamber, choose refractory fireclay bricks.

Instructions and drawing for ordering brick kilns

Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of masonry bricks have their own name, and the type of masonry is determined by them. The most common masonry of brick kilns is the butt and spoon masonry. Those. from the front side brick wall we will only be able to see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because... It is not used for bricklaying stoves. When laying, the vertical seams between the bricks should not coincide.

The brickwork of the stoves begins with the first row, constantly checking according to the diagram where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad help, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, checking the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

The thickness of the seam should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the thickness of the seam is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately in the right place; further moving and knocking is unacceptable.

Excess clay mixture removed from bricks cannot be reused.

Below are instructions for laying:

Laying a brick stove for your home with your own hands will require a lot of free time. Each brick has its own important meaning. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.

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The good old brick oven does not lose its position under the pressure of modern, highly efficient competitors. Disputes - why? – too many to count, but actually there is only one reason: the brick stove breathes. Stone, by the way, no.

What does it mean to breathe? When heated, the microporous body of the stove releases moisture vapor into the air of the heated room, and when it cools, it absorbs it. As a result, the brick oven supports the so-called. the dew point in the room is within physiologically optimal limits. When they say that a brick oven is “healthier” than any other, then, known or unknown, this is precisely this factor.

In addition to the beneficial effect on health, the breathing of the stove gives another important consequence: when performing a medical and thermal calculation of a house, the lower temperature limits in it can be reduced to 18 degrees for comfort and to 20 degrees for medicine, because relative humidity in heating season will be close to optimal. In wooden and brick buildings it can provide super savings: at 16-17 degrees, over 80% of physically healthy people do not feel discomfort in them, and the bed linen remains dry. And in stone or concrete house, heated by radiators, and at 18 degrees it can be chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperatures should be taken at 20 and 22 degrees, respectively, and when heating with IR emitters, electric or gas catalytic, another degree higher; IR devices dry out the air a lot. Therefore, a brick heating stove with an efficiency (heat transfer coefficient) of 50% may turn out to be more economical in heating costs than an ultra-modern metal composite stove with an efficiency of 70%, because the heat loss of a house strongly, according to a power law, depends on the difference between internal and outside temperature(temperature gradient).

Note: a little breathing can be achieved by enclosing it with a convection screen (see figure) 30-40 mm thick made of plywood, seasoned wood hardwood or several layers of drywall. At the same time, uniform heating of the room along the height will be ensured. But the breathing of such a stove will not be deep and even. Here modern technologies do not yet reach the brick.

Stove breathing in combination with physiology gives a second-order economic consequence: the heating season can start later and end earlier. IN middle lane In the Russian Federation, the difference over the year can reach a week, and in the Black Earth Region and to the south - 2-3. For which you will not need to purchase fuel. And if you consider that a good brick stove works on everything that burns, including junk and cheap alternative fuel(pellets, etc.), then the savings increase even more.

Note: On a global scale, brick kilns still fit poorly into the environment - the extraction and production of materials for them causes damage environment greater than the savings from stove heating on losses in heat mains and power lines. But in this case, demand no longer creates, but rather dictates supply. Leading kiln companies are quietly but hard working to improve technologies for the production of kiln materials and create brick kilns that can be transported to finished form and installation immediately at the point of use.

There are no fewer people wanting to build a stove with their own hands. Professional stove makers also do not break the price: their work is in demand, competition is quite high, and, in addition, most of them are enthusiasts of their work. But in order to take on the stove yourself or competently consider the proposed project, you need to know the basic principles of stove construction, which is what this article is about.

Is it only in the house?

A brick stove on the farm is useful not only for heating and cooking. A stationary one can bring very good income, as can a barbecue for an individual entrepreneur working in the field of catering.

In everyday life, what is most important is the high heat capacity of brick, which ensures long-term heat transfer after heating. Since the firebox is empty, you can sleep peacefully without fear of fumes. For industrial furnaces, the low thermal conductivity of the brick comes to the fore, making it possible to create a high concentration of heat in the working area. In this case, the breathing of the stove becomes a harmful factor, and it is most often stopped by placing the stove in a gas-tight case.

Small businessmen specializing in handicrafts industrial production, it is worth thinking about such types industrial furnaces, which are quite possible to do yourself:

• Cupola furnace – at a utility yard, up to 50 kg of scrap metal can be melted in it at a time.
• – for hardening of metal products with simultaneous cementing.
• Kiln for ceramics, etc.

Note: brick stoves are not recommended for heating greenhouses, greenhouses, poultry houses, and barnyards. A stove breathing miasma will spoil the air and will soon deteriorate itself.

The fact is that factory samples of small industrial furnaces are designed for transportation in parts or assembled. Therefore, their prices are prohibitively high. But by installing a stove on site, you can get a better one without taking out an unaffordable loan, and start a profitable business. For now, we will dwell in more detail on: they were the first to appear in everyday life and the principles embedded in them are valid for others.

Note: Bath stoves require separate analysis. Here the brick also comes out on top, but for slightly different reasons. Sauna stoves a special section will be devoted below.

Stove in the house

It is not necessary to build a house from a stove; you can choose a stove that matches the house. But first you need to carry out a thermal engineering calculation of the building, taking into account the factors described above and determine the place for the stove in the house. You also need to know that insulating the house from the outside increases the efficiency of stove heating much more than heating with registers. And, in turn, covering a house with siding makes insulation much easier and cheaper. That is, the optimal design of a house stove should initially be comprehensive.

As for the layout, different options are possible here, see fig. The house on the left is suitable, for example, for a bachelor hermit, but not an ascetic or a childless family of convinced sybarites; a warm bed in the bedroom would be very useful here. The stove is a heating and cooking stove. The Russian one does not fit into such a house, but the Swedish one (see below) will fit perfectly. An option is budget housing for a small family, then the bedroom turns into a children’s room or an area in the penthouse is allocated for children.

In the middle the house is already larger and more impressive. A fireplace stove with a finished cast iron firebox opens into the living room, see below; firebox door made of heat-resistant glass. Here, too, different options are possible. If, for example, the kitchen and bathroom are swapped, the heating panel (see below) is rotated 90 degrees, and the veranda from the hallway is moved to right side, then by slightly reducing the living room, you can fence off another 1-2 bedrooms. At the same time, there will be a corridor leading to the common areas.

The plan on the right is more suitable for a summer house. In the summer, opening the window in the kitchen-hallway will not be too hot for cooking. A fireplace stove in the corner - for evening gatherings by the fire; In case of bad weather, it will also be possible to cook shish kebab or barbecue on a rasper.

Already at the stage of planning a house with a stove, you need to consider the following:

1. For a tall stove with its own chimney, or for a stove with 500 or more bricks, a separate foundation is needed that has no mechanical connection with the foundation of the building, even if they are designed and built together;
2. A low and wide hob and a heating panel for it on the floor, made in accordance with the requirements of SNiP (i.e., capable of holding a load of at least 250 kg/sq. m) can be installed without a foundation, making only thermal insulation; more about her later. It is advisable to reinforce the flooring under the shield with additional joists;
3. The chimney cut (also see below) should not come into contact with the ceiling beams; it is very desirable that the distances from the cut to the floor beams closest to it are approximately the same.
4. The chimney must protrude at least 500 mm above the roof ridge and be at least 1500 mm away from it.

Clause 1 allows exceptions. If the stove is made of 1000 bricks or less, and the foundation of the house is sectional strip, then the foundation of the stove can be built at the intersection or T-shaped connection of the tapes under internal walls. In this case, the distance from the furnace foundation to the nearest other foundation strips of the building must be at least 1.2 m.

Note: because already a small Russian stove requires 1500 bricks, then all Russian stoves should be built on separate foundations. But here too there is an exception - a small Russian can be built on a guardrail made of wooden beams 150x150 mm, piercing the floor to the rubble in the foundation of the building or the ground.

Furnace structure

The furnace itself is sometimes called the furnace body. The body of the stove is installed on the hydro- and thermal insulation of the stove foundation or floor and ends with a chimney exiting through the attic and roof. All this together is called the structure of the furnace. The structure of a brick heating stove is shown in Fig. on right:

1. foundation;
2. hydrothermal insulation;
3. trenches are a kind of legs, they are made for lower heating and saving bricks;
4. blower;
5. the entrance of the air vent - an air channel that ensures uniform heating of the room along the height;
6. blower door;
7. grate;
8. the firebox door - worked - with the flow of fuel supply - rush;
9. firebox of the firebox, or just a firebox, or just a firebox;
10. firebox vault;
11. the mouth of the firebox, or its hailo. Sometimes only the vertical mouth of the firebox with a narrowing (nozzle) is called hailo, and in a Russian stove, hailo is the nozzle at the beginning of the chimney;
12. cleaning door or just cleaning;
13. overflow (pass) – bend in the channel of the air convector of the choke;
14. air convector vent;
15. valve for switching the furnace stroke (see below, shown conditionally);
16. gas (smoke) convector, or convection oven system;
17. view - a valve that is used to close the chimney after firing, so that the stove does not get cold due to natural or wind draft;
18. the outlet of the vent into the room with its door. In summer, the air vent door is closed and air convection in it stops;
19. chimney smoke duct;
20. furnace roof;
21. internal chimney trim;
22. ceiling;
23. fire cutting;
24. fluff, or otter, is an expansion of the mouth of a chimney.

Note: The side of the stove with the work (in the Russian stove the work is sometimes called the pharynx) is called the forehead of the stove, and its side walls are called mirrors or cheeks.

Let's give some explanations. The foundation is solid reinforced concrete; for a furnace on trenches - a tape-butted one. Removal of the foundation is at least 50 mm. Insulation - 2-3 layers of roofing felt, on top of them - 4-6 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, then a sheet of roofing iron, and on it a bedding for the masonry - a sheet of felt or basalt cardboard, soaked in a very liquid masonry mortar for the stove, about it see . Further. The litter is placed wet on the iron and allowed to dry before laying begins.

The first rows of masonry of the furnace body (oblique shading in the figure) are made of ordinary ceramic red brick (not facing!) on a cement-sand mortar; this is the furnace part of the furnace. Next comes the furnace, or fire part (checkered shading), it is laid from ceramic stove bricks in combination with fireclay, more about bricks later, on a clay-sand mortar.

In front of the blower door and the roof, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the floor on an asbestos or basalt cardboard cushion of 4-6 mm, its root edge is walled up in the nearest upper seam of the masonry. The spread of the sheet forward is at least 300 mm, and to the sides from the forehead - at least 150 mm. The free edges of the sheet are folded and nailed to the floor.

Clay masonry mortar does not set, but dries out. With irregular heating in the cold season, it gradually becomes limp from moisture. In this case, the part of the stove body, the temperature in which does not rise above 200-250 degrees, is laid out from stove bricks, but with cement-sand mortar, which is also much cheaper than clay, oblique hatching with gray filling in Fig. The mortar used for this part of the masonry is Portland cement from M400 and mountain sand without inclusions. Replacement with decorative analogues is unacceptable!

The lower transitions from channel to channel of the gas convector (crossflows) should be 30-50% greater in height than the upper ones (passes). This will ensure that soot accumulates at the bottom of the convector (on its bottom), from where it can be easily removed. For the same purpose, the edges of the passes are rounded.

Starting from 80 degrees in the chimney, the masonry is carried out again from simple brick on ordinary cement-sand mortar. The internal cutting of the chimney is necessary; it holds a fireproof cutting (at least 50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard in a metal casing) and, most importantly, in the event of a fire, the soot will absorb the heat for a time sufficient to take the necessary measures.

The role of the fluff (otter) is aerodynamic. It cuts the wind flow, forcing its upper part to jump over the mouth of the chimney, so the draft is not so dependent on the wind. The height of the fluff is at least 2 rows of bricks, the offset at the mouth cut is half a brick. Neglect of fluff is very common reason smoking stoves.

Choosing a furnace layout

The main convection schemes for household brick ovens are presented in Fig. On the left is a channel furnace with sequential gas convector, the easiest to implement. Similar ones are built using a serial channel circuit. In addition to simplicity, the advantage of the channel scheme is that it is very flexible in design. The convector with the firebox are mechanically connected only by a heater, so a channel stove can be designed for any ready-made room, see next. rice.

However, the efficiency of purely channel furnaces rarely exceeds 40%, and it is very difficult to build a water heater into them: a powerful internal heat flow circulates in the body of the furnace, and any violation of it leads to a drop in efficiency and increased soot deposition.

In the center in Fig. with diagrams the most advanced heating and cooking stove made of brick -, its efficiency reaches 60%. It is a chamber oven (the role of an air chamber flowing around a flow of hot gases is played by oven 1) and a duct convector stretched from floor to ceiling behind it. In the chamber part of the Swedish stove, gases heat the cooking surface in the cooking niche 2, and part of the heat from the convector enters the dryer 3. Advantages of the Swedish stove:

• The convector and oven do not have energy feedback with a combustion part, so a U- or W-shaped heat exchanger of a hot water supply system with a storage tank can be built into the oven on the side, and the tank itself can be placed either in a drying niche or on the roof of the oven.
• Afterburning flue gases occurs in the chamber part of the furnace. They go into the convector with a temperature below 800 degrees, so it can be made from ordinary bricks with cement-sand mortar.
• A tall narrow convector provides uniform heating of the room across the height.
• Some of the flue gases from the chamber outlet can be transferred, for example, to a stove bench, and then returned to the convector without deteriorating the furnace parameters.
• The dimensions of the convector can be varied, moved and rotated relative to the chamber part, so the Swede also fits well into a finished house and can heat up to 3 rooms, see next. rice. (after channel furnaces).
• If you open the oven door, a powerful stream of thermal radiation will come out of it, which will allow people who have come from hard work in the cold to quickly warm up and dry themselves.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish stove is the high requirements for the quality of materials and work for the chamber part of the stove. In addition, it definitely needs a foundation; without it, it will be high and narrow design, parts of which are loaded differently due to thermal stresses, will turn out to be fragile and unstable. Only an experienced stove maker can make a Swedish-type stove.

Finally, on the right in Fig. with diagrams - bell furnace. Its efficiency can exceed 70%, because it is self-regulating: flue gases will not go into the chimney until they burn out under the hood and give up their heat to the body of the stove. In addition, a bell-type stove has the property of a gas view: if you forget to close the standard one, the hot gases under the bell will not allow heavy cold air from the heat to flow through, and the stove will not get cold. This guarantees against wastage due to a view being closed at the wrong time.

However, a bell furnace looks simple only in the diagram, but in execution it is very complex due to the high loads in the structure. Then, a bell-type stove is exclusively heating; it is impossible to build a hob into it. Heat extraction for a water heater is possible only in two-bell stoves, which are even more complex, so bell stoves are not very common in everyday life. The exception is, but such talented stove makers are rarely born.

Plate and shield

The development of the Swedish idea gave rise to a very promising design: a conventional hob with a separate heating panel-convector, see fig. All that was required for this was to abandon the cooking and drying niches; this made it possible to separate the chamber and channel parts mechanically, i.e. build them separately; perhaps even in turns.

What do we get in return? Less load on the floor. In most cases, the slab can be built directly on wooden floor, putting the same insulation on it as on the foundation for a furnace. And under the shield, just a damping cushion made of basalt cardboard is enough. The problem of stability of a tall narrow shield remains, but it is solved by creating its mechanical connection with the wall, even if it is a half-brick partition, see fig. left.

Further, the shield can be moved and rotated relative to the stove, then the stove can heat the kitchen and bathroom, and the shield can heat up to 4 rooms. To do this, you need to insert a flexible link made of heat-resistant corrugation with good thermal insulation into the horizontal section of the chimney between them to avoid soot deposition. In general, at the cost of abandoning niches that are almost unnecessary in our time, a fundamentally new and very practical design was obtained.

Seasonal furnace runs

In the summer, when it’s already hot, there’s no need to heat the room. But putting tiny amounts of fuel into the firebox will also not work: the limits for adjusting the power of the fuel supply of all furnaces are small. The heat from a small batch will fly out into the chimney, and the remainder will not be enough for scrambled eggs. But get summer kitchen Not everyone has the opportunity to use a stove.

For such a case, stove designs with switching from summer to winter have been invented. The easiest way to switch the stroke is in a parallel circuit duct furnace, two left positions. in Fig. below. However, the maximum efficiency of a channel-parallel furnace can be achieved only with a power of more than 20 kW. The square-cube law applies here, and in a stove that is too small, the heat will “whistle” into the pipe without having time to heat the convector. In addition, all two-pass furnaces are potentially dangerous: if you accidentally close both valves, a fume will occur. Finally, during the summer, the roof and part of the cheeks of the stove still get hot.

Meanwhile, there is a two-pass scheme, especially suitable for heating panels: a scheme with two chimneys, summer and winter, two positions. on the right in Fig. It only requires one valve, so it is completely safe - there will be draft in any position of the switch. The position of the valve out of season will be immediately felt by the heat transfer, and you can switch the stroke during combustion. And smoothly regulate the heating by partially closing the damper.

During the summer run, the gases will not squeeze through into the winter run: aerodynamic drag The convector labyrinth is much larger than that of a straight pipe. And the complexity of constructing chimneys is not at all double: the gases enter the winter chimney cooled below 80 degrees, so the winter chimney can be lightweight and simplified, for example. asbestos-cement. The only small disadvantage of a system with two chimneys is that each pair of convector channels requires cleaning.

Special ovens

Before moving on to a more detailed analysis of conventional stoves, we will focus on several special, highly sought-after designs.

Barbecue oven

The real one is the ancient one open hearth, see fig. They build it either on outdoors under a canopy or indoors under a smoke hood. Masonry without any wisdom: half a brick with a spoon bandage. 3-4 rows need to be laid out with pokes to form supports for the roasting pan and grates. However, for more details about the masonry, see below.

The foundation for an outdoor barbecue is the simplest, a slab of ready-made concrete monoliths or stone blocks on a sand-crushed stone bed. An indoor barbecue is built directly on the floor using the combined insulation described above.

The barbecue has one subtlety: the side of the brazier, in the right hearth it heats the cooking from the sides. Therefore, it is advisable to lay out the top 2-3 rows from fireclay bricks; it absorbs heat very well and slowly releases it. In order for the top of the brazier to heat up faster, you need to take faceted shaped bricks, as shown in Fig. below. Through the wedge-shaped depressions between them, heat will pass faster into the masonry. You can make shaped bricks for a barbecue yourself, but then you will have to work with a grinder.

Bathhouse

How to build a furnace in the usual way; The main secret here is the design of the heater. A closed heater through which flue gases pass (on the left in the figure) quickly warms up and produces the most useful dry steam. But you can’t “pour” water or kvass onto it; you’ll have to light the stove again. In addition, the slightest mistake - incorrectly selected stones, poor fuel, violation of the firebox - leads to the deposition of unburned organic matter in the heater, and dry steam can turn out to be toxic and carcinogenic.

An open heater (second from the left in the figure) is safe, but takes a long time to heat up. To steam with “supercharge”, the stove must be heated all the time, so its creation must go into the dressing room: fumes are especially dangerous at high air temperatures. If you add too much pressure, the heater can completely dry out, and the whole bathhouse will go down the drain.

The third stove on the left with a closed side heater is more perfect: the bunker with stones is washed by hot gases from all sides except the front one, so the heater warms up faster and you can put more pressure into it. But the most perfect sauna stove is the bell-type stove on the far right. The heater is located on the roof of the bell, the temperature under which is very high, there is the main source of heat generation, and this heat has nowhere to go except into the stones. Therefore, the heater warms up in a matter of minutes and you can add pressure almost without restrictions. There is no need to heat the stove, the “hood” itself will select a mode depending on the heat consumption, as long as there is fuel in the firebox.

This stove has 3 disadvantages. Firstly, the general complexity and high cost, like bell-type furnaces in general. Secondly, a cap made of ordinary steel quickly burns out, but one made of heat-resistant steel is expensive. Finally, you can only add heat to the heater of this stove from the built-in shower, and you can’t fill it with kvass.

Flow furnaces

Flow-through stoves do not have convectors, but they only have a superficial resemblance to a fire in a chimney or cave. Continuous furnaces can be very effective. The most popular types are English fireplace and Russian stove.

Fireplace

The structure diagram is shown in Fig. To obtain maximum efficiency comparable to that of a Dutch oven, the fireplace insert should taper back on all sides, on the right in Fig.

The main proportions of the fireplace are as follows:

• The portal area is 2% of the room area.
• The height of the portal is from 2/3 to 3/4 of its width.
• The area of ​​the combustion opening is 1.5-1.8% of the area of ​​the room.
• The firebox bottom area is 70% of the portal area.
• The depth of the firebox is 1/2-2/3 of the height of the firebox opening.
• The back wall of the firebox is broken at 1/3 of its height.
• The angle of inclination of the “mirror” of the rear wall is 20-22 degrees from the vertical.
• The angle of convergence of the side walls is 45-60 degrees, i.e. 22.5-30 degrees for each.
• If the fireplace has a solid hearth, then its rise back is 4-7 degrees.
• The height of the podium above the floor is about 50 cm.
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney is 7-13% of the firebox area. The smaller value applies to a round chimney, the larger one to a rectangular chimney with sides 1:2. For a square chimney – 10%

Russian stove

(diagram in Fig.) with regular intensive heating it gives an efficiency of up to 80%, has amazing decorative qualities, allows you to prepare traditional Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way, and is always equipped with a stove bench. But the design of the Russian stove is very conservative; only a stove maker with extensive experience working with Russian stoves can make changes to it without risking damage to the stove.

From the point of view of construction mechanics, the Russian stove also stands apart. It is not a solid module that works as one (hollow column, wall), but an almost complete analogue of a building: a coherent structure, the parts of which interact through the corners. Therefore, the corners of the Russian stove must be laid out according to all the rules. Reconciliation in order is not enough; you also need to constantly check it plumb. Key points The masonry of the Russian stove is shown in the following figure.

Preliminary calculation of the furnace

Before choosing a stove design, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation for the room. Usually it is based on the heat output of the furnace in kcal/hour. As the stove cools, heat transfer decreases, but heat loss in the room also decreases, because it also cools down. The task of the calculation is to maintain the temperature in the room until the next fire.

Such a calculation is theoretically complex, and using ready-made coefficients and simplified formulas requires a lot of experience. But for houses with good external insulation, quite reliable results are obtained by the method of calculation proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov based on the average thermal power per unit surface of the furnace (TMEP). For a normal firebox it can be taken at 0.5 kW/sq. m, and for heating in severe frost - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m for 2 weeks.

Using TMEP, the rough calculation of the furnace becomes very simple. Let's say we have a stove with a plan of 1.5 x 1.5 m and a height of 2.5 m. The area of ​​its walls is 3.75 x 4 = 15 square meters. m, plus 2.25 sq. m ceiling. Total 17.5 sq. m. This stove will be able to produce from 8.75 to 13.3 kW of heat. Taking into account the features of stove heating, this is enough for a house of 80-100 square meters. m.

Firebox

To calculate the firebox, you must first determine the maximum fuel volume. It is found by the required thermal power, the calorific value of the fuel, its specific gravity and the expected efficiency of the furnace. The calculation is carried out for all types of fuel for which the furnace is intended, and highest value. The volume of the fuel chamber of the furnace (combustion chamber) is taken to be 2-3 times greater than the maximum volume of fuel mass, based on re-melting. In general, the maximum fuel load into the combustion chamber is 2/3 of its volume.

A complete calculation of the firebox is not the job of amateurs and not even just any heating engineer. Let's take at least such a “trifle” as a grate. It will let in too much air - the fuel will burn faster than the body of the stove will accept its heat, and the remainder will fly out into the chimney. If there is not enough air, the fuel will not burn completely, and the unreleased heat will again end up in the chimney with smoke. What about soot and ash clogging the grates? And all this needs to be linked with other, no less significant components of the firebox, and for different types fuel.

Fortunately, there are now many ready-made stove inserts on sale for different thermal power, for different fuels, with solid or transparent, for stoves, fireplaces, created. And a finished firebox will cost less than any homemade one. When choosing, you just need to pay attention to the following:

1. The dimensions of the firebox and its fastening elements (pins, mustaches) must be consistent with the dimensions of the brick. Kiln bricks are produced in several standard sizes (see below), and the same firebox can be sold in several modifications for different bricks.
2. For a long-term use stove, you need to use a cast iron firebox. Welded from sheet metal - for ovens used occasionally.
3. You also need to pay attention to the depth of the narrowing of the combustion chamber towards the grates - an ash pit, an ash well or simply an ash pan.

Let us clarify the last point. If the stove will be heated primarily with high-calorie, low-ash fuel in large pieces (coal, peat briquettes), then the ash pan needs to be taken deeper, up to 1/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. In a shallow ash pan, such fuel will burn out too quickly. If the stove uses low-calorie wood fuel, including pellets, then the depth of the ash pan should be no more than 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber, otherwise the bottom of the fuel mass will quickly become clogged with ash, the air flow will be reduced, and the fuel will not burn out.

As you can see, the depth of the ash pan is large. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little and take a multi-fuel firebox. Such complete combustion All types of fuel listed in the certificate are provided with special design measures.

Note: raw firewood can be completely burned in a deep ash pit, and coal can be burned on a flat firebox floor by choosing the correct amount of fuel. But this requires the experience of a stoker and intermediate heating with screwing, which is no good at night.

Chimney

Calculating a chimney is a separate topic, perhaps more complex than calculating the entire stove. Even on a computer, you have to restart the CAD 2-3 times, manually adjusting the source data, before everything comes together properly. But for normal conditions (rectangular cross-section, vertical stroke without kinks, height of the chimney mouth above the grate is 4-12 m), you can immediately give ready-made values ​​of the transverse dimensions for furnaces of different power:

• Up to 3.50 kW – 140×140 mm.
• From 3.50 to 5.20 kW – 140×200 mm.
• 5.20-7.20 kW – 140×270 mm.
• 7.20-10.5 kW – 200x200 mm.
• 10.5-14 kW – 200Х270 mm.

These values ​​are the minimum. They are designed to avoid “whistle” when cold air flows countercurrently into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. “Whistling” is fraught not only with heat loss, but also with a lot of other serious troubles.

If the stove in the chimney chosen “offhand” smokes even occasionally, it needs to be increased by only 0.25-0.5 m. Once upon a time, for this, a leaky bucket was placed on the pipe, now you can add a piece of asbestos-cement pipe with a cross-section no less than the chimney.

But the most The best way– don’t be lazy and lay 2-4 more rows of bricks, not forgetting to make a new fluff. Have you ever seen a pipe with two otters? This means that the initially short chimney was increased to normal as a result of the heating.

Note: It is often necessary to extend the pipe when the aerodynamics of the area change. Let's say the forest has grown around or high-rise buildings have been built.

Furnace materials and appliances

Brick

Sources often confuse it with fireproof fireclay. The only thing they have in common is their dimensions: if for a single building brick they are 250x125x65 mm, then for kiln bricks they are 230x114x40 mm (standard) or, sometimes, 230x114x65 mm. In general, the stove brick is high-quality red M150. You can use it entirely to build a Dutch oven and a Russian stove. In terms of heat resistance (up to 800 degrees), it would also be suitable for a fireplace, but it absorbs little heat and cools quickly, so it is only suitable for a fireplace summer cottage, the fire in which one can only admire.

Note: The dimensions of stove bricks were formed historically in ancient times, so that anyone could distinguish them from building bricks. Firing bricks then cost a lot of work and expense, there was no concrete, and deposits of good clay were rare. Therefore, the wandering stove makers of that time often did nothing, using weakly fired bricks made from unimportant clay.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying the combustion parts of furnaces with a fairly intense thermal regime: Swedish, bathhouse, bell-type. Its main advantage is for household stoves not heat resistant, 1600 degrees does not exist in home ovens. What is more important here is the high thermal conductivity of fireclay combined with high heat capacity: fireclay masonry is an excellent heat accumulator.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to build a furnace entirely from fireclay: it will first become unacceptably hot and then give off heat too quickly by radiation. On the outside, the fireclay masonry should be covered on all sides with ceramic, at least half a brick.

Judging the quality of fireclay bricks only by the depth of its color is not entirely correct, because... Fireclay clay from different deposits is very different in appearance. Almost black brick may be bad, but light yellow brick may be excellent. The main sign of quality is a fine-grained structure without many visible pores and inclusions (top left in the figure; next to it is suspicious). Next stage check - tapping with a light hammer. A good brick produces a ringing or clear, abrupt sound, while a bad brick produces a dull, drawn-out sound. Finally, if knocking doesn’t really clear anything up, they check for cleavage, or, in modern terms, conduct a crash test: a brick is broken or dropped from a height onto a hard floor. A good brick has good cleavage; it splits into large pieces with a granular fracture. A bad one produces more dust and crumbs than large fragments.

The sides of fireclay bricks are called the same as building bricks, this is also shown in Fig. Like construction fireclay, fireclay is used full-length, in 3/4 lengths (in three-quarter lengths), in halves and quarters. How they are indicated on masonry diagrams is shown in Fig. bottom left.

Clinker brick, or simply clinker (on the right in the figure), is well suited for laying the internal critical parts of household stoves. This is the same ceramic brick, fired at a high temperature. Its appearance is unprepossessing, but its strength and heat resistance are increased. Clinker costs a little more than regular red brick, but is significantly cheaper than fireclay.

Note: Sand-lime brick is absolutely unsuitable for any parts of furnaces. It does not adhere to clay mortar, but due to alternating thermal loads it draws moisture into itself like a sponge.

Sand

Sand in mortar for laying stoves requires special consideration. For a stove designed for more than 10 years of regular use without repair, you need mountain sand without inclusions. In other types there is too much organic matter, due to which the masonry seams crumble and crack over time.

Pure mountain sand is roads. But the main thing is that now there is an ideal replacement on sale: clay sand for ceramic masonry and fireclay sand for fireclay. Don’t be surprised by the phrase “clay sand”; it, like fireclay, is ground waste of the corresponding type of brick. Brick sand most often turns out to be cheaper than good mountain sand, and mortar masonry with it is of exceptional quality.

Masonry mortars

They are used for laying brick kilns. There are many known recipes, we will present the simplest and highest quality ones. For fireclay you need fireclay marl or white kaolin. For ceramic bricks - any refractory ground clay; Gray kaolin, blue or gray Cambrian are best. In both cases, for 100 pcs. bricks will need 40 kg of clay.

When purchasing, they immediately check the clay for the smell: any clearly noticeable smell, pleasant or unpleasant, indicates an admixture of organic matter; such clay is not suitable for laying a stove. Next, you need to determine the required proportion of sand in the solution, because Clay from different deposits of the same quality has different fat content - a combination of adhesive ability and viscosity. Take 0.5-1 kg of clay powder for a sample, fill it with water in a container to the top of the backfill and let it sour for a day and gain moisture. Fireclay marl completely sours in 1-2 hours, overexposure is not a problem.

The soured clay, adding a little water, is kneaded until the consistency of very thick dough or plasticine. Then the batch is divided into 5 parts and sand is added to each: 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% by volume. All samples are thoroughly mixed again until completely homogeneous and dried for 3-4 hours.

Now the samples are rolled into sausages with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm and a length of at least 30 cm. Each sausage is wrapped around any round object with a diameter of about 5 cm and the result is observed:

1. The solution, based on a sample that has settled absolutely without cracks, is suitable for any furnace, including the fuel part.
2. The dried crust has torn, forming a network of small cracks - the solution is also suitable for all ovens, incl. for the Russian furnace and the Dutch furnace.
3. The cracks went 1-2 mm deep - the solution is suitable for parts of the stove heated to no higher than 300 degrees, for barbecues and country fireplaces.
4. Deep cracks, breaks, breaks - there is too much sand, the solution is not suitable.

The main point of testing the proportion of sand is to reduce the cost of construction: brick sand is much cheaper than high-quality clay. Accordingly, the more of it goes into the solution, the cheaper it will be.

Note: This test is only suitable for mortar on brick sand. For solutions on natural sand, other tests are used.

The working solution is prepared according to the same principle as the sample, but in the required volume:

• The clay is soaked for a day; fireclay marl – hour.
• Knead the mixture until it forms a dough.
• Rub through a 3x3 mm sieve.
• Sand is added according to the test results.
• Add water little by little and knead until the cream becomes thick.
• Check the fat content of the solution in the usual way, by wetting the trowel.
• If necessary, add clay or sand (very little!), knead and begin laying.

Note: on average, 3-4 buckets of ready-made solution come out of a clay sales package.

Furnace appliances

Stove devices (doors, valves) are attached to the body of the stove either with mustaches located at the seams of the masonry (on the left in the figure), or with a skirt made of heat-resistant steel, wrapped before installation with a 5-mm asbestos cord, on the right there. The first ones, of course, are cheaper, but they are not suitable for fireboxes, ovens and fire dampers: during the life of the stove they have to be changed several times, and it is bad to disturb the masonry by tearing out the mustaches from the seams. And, of course, the installation dimensions of the devices must be consistent with the dimensions of the bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

Laying and dressing

Brickwork can be tongue and groove, depending on which side of the brick faces outward. The bricks are laid on the bed. “Bed” masonry, when the brick is placed on a stick or spoon, is extremely fragile and is prohibited by SNiP, but in exceptional cases it is used for external finishing of unloaded structures.

The masonry is carried out with bandaging of the seams, i.e. the seams of individual bricks must have a spread (offset) in the masonry row (in one or two directions horizontally) and between rows (vertically). In untied masonry, any microcrack that cannot be avoided will inevitably creep further, destroying the structure.

There are dozens of methods for bandaging seams in construction alone, but in the stove business they also have to be changed in order to lay out complex chimney ducts. However, you can check a finished stove project or one developed independently, guided by fairly simple principles:

1. The masonry begins and ends with bonded rows.
2. Any brick must rest on at least 2 others.
3. Bricks of adjacent courses must overlap by at least 1/4 in length or width.
4. All vertical seams must be filled with mortar, otherwise the masonry will delaminate into vertical layers.
5. The vertical seams of the butt and spoon rows should not coincide.
6. Protruding thresholds, areas under beams and liners must be butted.
7. The hewn parts of the bricks should not protrude outward. The exception is bricks processed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

The normal seam width when laying a stove is 3 mm, the minimum is 2 mm. Widening up to 5 mm is permissible; on flood rows and in the vault - up to 13 mm. In places where fireclay and ceramic masonry meet and around liners made of any other material (stove appliances, concrete beams, pins under the hob, etc.), the masonry is carried out with a seam of maximum width - 5 mm. The grate bars are placed in a nest on the firebox floor to dry, so that they can be removed for cleaning.

All rows of masonry must be tied vertically. In extensive internal spaces rows, incomplete bandaging in a row is allowed (see figure), or masonry using the backfill method, i.e. filling them with bricks without dressing. It is convenient to do the dressing between similar rows (for example, sub-flooding ones) using the mirror reflection method, similar to how fence posts are laid out, on the right in Fig.

Laying the convector and shield

When laying convector partitions, it is necessary to leave bypass windows at the top (passes) and bottom (crossflows). There are no problems with the passes - it’s enough not to add 2-3 bricks, and that’s it. But you can’t put the overflow like that, you’ll end up with a hanging wall. The partitions above the crossflows are laid out as shown in Fig. The supports from the butts are alternated every 3-5 rows. The windows of the tray row near the butts are covered with brick halves.

The walls of the furnace convector are laid out in its order, and the walls of the heating shield are laid out with spoons with a simple spoon dressing. Her diagrams for walls of half a brick, a brick and one and a half bricks are shown in the following. rice. The latter uses mirror image dressing.

Vault masonry

In household stoves, semi-circular (in the form of part of a cylinder) and flat vaults are used, see fig. below. In the best Russian stoves, very experienced stove makers sometimes, by special order, make the furnace vault oval, four-centered, and in Pompeian stoves the vault is domed, but both require high skill and experience. In a mechanically weakly loaded semi-circular stove vault, the outer stones of the wings - the heels - and the central stone - the castle - do not differ from the others.

The semicircular vault is laid out in the following order:

• Prepare a drawing of the vault on a scale of 1:1.
• Thrust bearings are placed along it - bricks on which the wings of the vault will rest.
• Place the thrust bearings on the mortar and interrupt the laying of the furnace until the mortar is completely dry.
• According to the patterns - circles - the wings of the arch are laid out, observing the dressing between the rows.
• Apply the solution generously into the groove of the lock and insert the keystones into it one by one, hammering it in with a wooden sledgehammer or log. A sign of correctly executed masonry will be the uniform squeezing of the mortar out of the seams on the wings.
• They wait for the mortar in the vault to dry completely, remove the circles, and continue laying the stove.

The vertical seams of the lock should not coincide with the seams on the wings. To do this, already at the drawing stage, the wings need to be made in a mirror image, and not by simply shifting one to the other side. The maximum angle of divergence of bricks in the vault is 17 degrees. With standard size bricks, an internal seam of 2 mm and an external seam of 13 mm, this angle will be maintained.

The flat vault is laid out on a flat pallet instead of a circle of shaped bricks, ready-made, purchased or made independently. The masonry technology is the same, but keep in mind that a flat vault does not tolerate the slightest asymmetry! If the whole thing is moved a little to the side, it will begin to collapse on its own. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen lay out a flat vault from shaped bricks according to a proprietary template pallet.

How many bricks are needed?

How many bricks are needed for a stove? After all, the amount of mortar and, therefore, the main construction costs are tied to it.

Once upon a time, the number of bricks was calculated using empirical coefficients for standard projects. The method gave up to 15% of the fight (and theft), which is unacceptable at current prices.

Nowadays furnaces are calculated using computer-aided design (CAD) systems. The program immediately displays how many full-size, longitudinal and shaped bricks are needed. But, since they don’t build a blast furnace or kiln for a factory at home, and mastering CAD requires a lot of work, time and special knowledge, the homemaker has no choice but to simply count the bricks according to the order of the kiln. This will take an hour and a half for an average home stove, but if you count carefully, you can reduce the battle to 2-3%

Note: A correctly completed furnace design must be accompanied by a specification indicating the number of bricks, other materials and a complete list of devices indicating their type and variety.

Tool

Tools for kiln work are generally the same as for other masonry work (see figure below): a hammer-pick (butt) with a wedge-shaped spine for brick pegs, a trowel (trowel), cutting tools for convex and concave seams, mortar shovel. But order is definitely added. In this case, this is not a masonry diagram laid out along its rows, but a tool for checking its correctness.

The fact is that the masonry of the stove with seams of uneven thickness will soon crack from temperature deformations. On the other hand, masonry on clay takes a long time to dry, at least a week, and even dried seams can be soaked and a failed structure can be rebuilt.

The ordering tool (on the right in the figure) is a flat wooden strip 50x50 mm, on the sides of which the row numbers for different types of bricks are marked, taking into account the thickness of the seam. The stove needs at least 4 rows, and one for each additional corner, internal or external. Use the order like this:

1. The flood rows are laid out in formwork.
2. The orders are secured in the corners with 2 staples with pointed ends each. The staples are pressed into the masonry seams.
3. A mooring cord is moored to the rows, along which the laying is carried out. For a Russian stove, the corners are additionally aligned with plumb lines.
4. As you lay out the top bracket, shaking it, is removed from the seam and inserted into the next one.
5. The holes from the bracket in the previous seam are sealed with masonry mortar.

Working principles

In all furnaces, without exception, the mechanical connections are relatively weak and the loads are high. Therefore, “brick on brick - drive, grandma, mogorych!” it doesn’t go unambiguously here. A stove that has not yet reached the ceiling will most likely collapse, as described by Makarenko in his “Pedagogical Poem.” When laying a stove, the following rules must be observed:

• Bricks are laid only one at a time. For beginners, it is advisable to lay out the next row on a dry surface, level it, and only then place the stones on the mortar.
• Before laying, each brick is mopped (not to be confused with scraping!): thoroughly cleaned of crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
• Dip the ceramic brick into clean water for a second or two and shake it off thoroughly, then it will immediately stick to the mortar.
• Fireclay bricks are not “bathed” under any circumstances!
• It is difficult to apply a layer of mortar exactly 3 mm with a trowel, so experienced craftsmen apply the mortar by hand. But this also requires a certain skill.
• The brick is put into place in one motion, you cannot move or knock!
• If the stone does not immediately lie properly, it is removed, the mortar is cleaned from the brick and its bed and placed again.
• The removed solution is thrown away; it is no longer suitable for use!

Design examples

As an example, consider a couple of constructions with which you can begin the transition from theory to practice. In Fig. - diagram and order of the simplest brick oven: a hob that does not require a foundation. It will take no more than 130 ordinary red bricks, taking into account the battle at the hands of a novice master. A U- or W-shaped hot water heat exchanger with a storage tank made of a metal water pipe can be built into the descent from the gas channel pass to the chimney outlet (marked in red in the figure).

Despite its simplicity and small size, the heat output of this stove is about 650 kcal/hour, which allows flue gases to pass through a heating panel that heats 20-25 square meters. m of living space. A standard size 1 hob is laid loosely on 3-4 mm steel tendrils 2, embedded in the seam between the 11th and 12th rows of masonry. Its thickness is 6 mm.

On the trail. rice. – a small unit with a single burner hob. It is also made of simple red brick M150. Taking into account amateur fighting, you will need 270-280 pieces.

The cast-iron stove lies freely on the mustache, as in the previous stove. You can remove it and insert a barbecue barbecue into its slot, or place skewers with kebabs on the opening of the stove. With an open (or transparent) firebox door, the stove turns into a fireplace.

It is no longer possible to place this stove on the floor; it is too high and narrow. But on soils with sufficient bearing capacity (loam, sandy loam, forest soil, etc. “dacha” soils), the foundation for it can be a solid slab on a sand-crushed stone bed, as for a barbecue fireplace.

Video: example of laying a simple brick oven

The most important principle

Finally, let's give the most main principle construction of brick household stoves: the stove and the house are closely interconnected, they can be friends and enemies. It is very simple to reconcile the stove with the house: any of them will show all their advantages only in a good-quality, well-insulated house.

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version– a heating stove made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to heavy weight it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimal costs for materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood-burning stoves and give practical recommendations for their installation.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and use bottled gas or electricity to cook food, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular cooking of large quantities of food and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their masonry:

• Simple direct flow;
• With hob;
• Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating design is designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, poured it cement mortar and having leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarter” bricks. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version This design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when you have everything you need at hand.

So buy in advance following materials and accessories:

• Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
• Blower door – 1 piece;
• Grate – 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
• Fire door – 1 piece;
• Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. His purchase - extra waste money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and put its ends into the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. At the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for ensuring good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves heat output by preventing flue gases from quickly escaping into the chimney.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing the joints of a cast iron slab and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

• Red solid brick– 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand - 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
• Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Gate valve - 1 piece;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After this, a test fire is made, burning small portions of wood chips, branches or straw.

Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private home, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.

Therefore, the search query about how to build a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Types of brick kilns

There are several main types of ovens - some of them only do one main task- this is home heating, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions in their “set of capabilities” at once. Therefore, in order to decide the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large room, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

Many different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be very miniature and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the stove?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to consider this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the beams ceiling, and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.

• To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outside wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides stove structures may have different decorative finishes, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage point
• When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.

Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
• A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• A scriber is a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal corners, since they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
• Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
• (trowels) different sizes used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
• Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is done “for jointing”, without further cladding.
• Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• Sieve with metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
• Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined plastic film or roofing felt.

• Then, it is laid out on the bottom sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm in order to save bricks. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step is to install a reinforcing grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
• Next, into the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do waterproofing material markings, indicating the location of the oven base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.

After these preparatory works, you can proceed to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, when starting to lay a previously unfamiliar structure, first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.

As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, as it may form reverse thrust, and smoke will come out of the room when kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but this time on the solution.

When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.

Processing seams for jointing

If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inside of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.

Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.

These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.

The dimensions of this heating structure, excluding the height of the chimney, are 750x630x2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.

To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Ш-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Fire door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Fire valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
Steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
Steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
Roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.

In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.

This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. A row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut-out is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks.
	After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the firebox door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined.
	When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is intended for laying the hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but above it a steam exhaust hole is formed into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner interior brick cut to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, the brickwork is covered with a metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then with outside oven, a metal corner is installed that will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks.
	On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners the drying chamber space is blocked.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above is left open drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If you decide to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering diagram, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen