Foam concrete is an excellent heat and soundproofing material, blocks made from it are light, pliable in processing, and easy to lay. Internal partitions in the house can be built from blocks with your own hands without special effort and financial costs.

A bathroom and toilet made of foam blocks will be no worse than a cast sanitary cabin made of asbestos cement, partitions made of brick or plasterboard, but the performance qualities of the premises in terms of noise insulation will far exceed those of other materials.

In the article we will talk about brands of foam blocks for interior work, the technology for constructing partitions and methods of protecting bathroom walls from moisture.

Advantages of foam concrete blocks

You can build partitions in the house (see), separate the bathroom from the living area, and properly organize the space in the apartment using various materials. But foam blocks are in particular demand due to their unique technical and operational properties (see).

What attracts builders so much in this material:

• Light weight Compared to other materials, it does not exert much pressure on the ceiling.
• The dimensions of the blocks can significantly reduce the construction process time.
• Due to the ease of processing foam concrete, it becomes possible to execute architectural forms various configurations(niches, arches, etc.).
• Partitions made of foam concrete are easy to redevelop.
• High sound insulation qualities.
• Complete fire safety.
• Affordable price.

The disadvantages include:

• The material has high moisture absorption; therefore, a number of measures will have to be taken in the bathroom to protect the walls from moisture.
• Due to their porosity and softness, foam blocks have some restrictions on load, that is, hanging heavy cabinets on the walls is quite problematic. But this issue is easily resolved using a special one.

How to choose the right material

In order for the laying of foam blocks in an apartment to be of high quality, even and reliable, you need to choose the appropriate material.

For partitions, blocks of the following sizes are used (length x height x width):

• 600 x 300 x 150 mm.
• 600 x 300 x 100 mm.
• 600 x 200 x 75 mm.
• 600 x 200 x 50 mm.

Since the partition for the bathroom is self-supporting, that is, it is not subjected to any loads from above (ceiling, roof, etc.) and only holds its own pressure, foam concrete grade D400–D500 with strength class B2.5 is usually used for such structures.

Important! The thickness of the blocks is taken equal to or greater than the width door frame, later it will be easier to get door slope, than to think about how to refine the jamb protruding from the wall.

It is believed that for internal partitions the most optimal ratio of price and quality is a block with a thickness of 100 mm, this will be quite enough to prevent noise washing machine in the bathroom or the sound of running water could not be heard from the room. Between the bathroom and the toilet you can lay a partition 75 mm thick.

The foam block must meet the following characteristics:

• Accurate geometric and linear dimensions.
• A homogeneous surface without dark spots, various inclusions, etc.
• No cracks, chips, dents or bulges.
• Light gray color, partial or complete change of which indicates violations in the technological process.

We must remember that the smoother the surface and more precise dimensions, the easier it will be to finish the walls (see), so you should select high-quality blocks.

Adhesive for foam blocks

Since the amount of work is not large, it will be better if the laying of foam blocks in the apartment is not carried out on cement-sand mortar, and for special adhesive mixtures (see), which include:

• Cement.
• Fine sand.
• A modifier that keeps the mixture from premature cracking.
• A plasticizer that penetrates deep into the pores of foam concrete and ensures reliable adhesion of the blocks to each other.

The composition of the mixtures is similar to the structure of foam concrete, and after the glue has completely set, the wall acquires strength and solidity.

The seam between the blocks is made up to 3 mm thick, no more, so for 1 m2 of masonry, depending on the brand of the mixture used, the glue consumption will be approximately 2 to 6 kg, which is 4–6 times less than when using cement-sand mortar.

Important! When mixing the glue, the preparation instructions must be strictly followed, otherwise the adhesive properties of the solution will be impaired, which can lead to a weakening of the strength of the partition.

Key points of partition masonry technology

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the partition on the floor and wall, then, to lay the first row, install beacons along the marking to prevent the blocks from shifting during work.

Can be used as guides metallic profile for drywall:

• First row of blocks.

If the wall is placed on a cement base, then it is enough to cover it with a primer and lay a layer of mortar under the blocks; when the floor is wooden, then to firmly fix the first row, it is recommended to screw in anchors or pins. We must remember that how accurately the first row lies, the partition will look even and aesthetically pleasing.

• Subsequent rows.

Since the thickness of the partition is relatively small, the foam block masonry in the bathroom every 2-3 rows should be reinforced with a masonry mesh or separate rods (see), the ends of which should be drilled into load-bearing wall no less than 100 mm. In addition, securing the reinforcement will tie existing wall and a new partition into a single structure and will eliminate the risk of wobbling, shifting or, in the worst case, collapse of the partition under possible mechanical stress.

The doorway is also covered with two reinforcement rods or a corner, on which the blocks are then laid. If possible, you can use a standard jumper.

• The last row.

If, when bringing the masonry to the ceiling, a small gap remains, then it is sealed with polyurethane foam.

• The junction of two partitions.

If planned separate bathroom, then the partition separating the bathroom and toilet is also reinforced and the ends of the rods are laid between the blocks of the first partition and drilled into the load-bearing wall, thus creating a reliable connection.

That's all there is to it technological process masonry partitions. But there are a few subtleties that you need to know when working with foam concrete:

• The laying of foam blocks in the bathroom must be carried out with mandatory bandaging of the seams, that is, the seams of each subsequent row should not coincide with the underlying ones, the shift is made by about half a block.
• Foam concrete absorbs moisture well, so in order to avoid moisture absorption and premature drying of the adhesive mixture, the blocks must be moistened with water before laying it.
• Due to the thinness of the partition, when laying several rows in a row, the wall may shift in plane, so it is recommended to let the glue set after each row.
• After completing the work, you need to putty the seams, various defects that arose during the masonry process, clean the surfaces from excess glue and allow the partition to dry thoroughly. After this, coat the wall with two layers of waterproof primer. deep penetration, wait completely dry and begin further finishing work.
• All electrical and plumbing work is carried out after the glue has completely set; curing times should be looked at on the packaging with the mixture. Since foam concrete lends itself well to drilling, it will not be difficult to install pipes or install wiring.

Protection of foam concrete from moisture

The bathroom is considered the dampest room in the house, so the foam block masonry must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into the concrete body.

This is done in several ways:

1. Plastering walls followed by coating with waterproof compounds (paint, varnish, etc.).

Since foam concrete is quite soft material, then before applying the plaster mortar, it is recommended to secure a fiberglass reinforcing mesh to the walls. This is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface of the foam blocks and obtain a better coating.

1. Moisture resistant cladding decorative panels or slabs (siding, PVC panels And so on).

It is produced using a frame or frameless method. In the first case, a frame is mounted under the panels, on which the panels are hung; in the second version, the slabs are glued directly to the wall.

With this finish, the foam block masonry in the bathroom will be especially susceptible to dampness, so it is necessary to place a frame or facing material attach a vapor barrier membrane to the walls, which will not allow moisture to penetrate inside the masonry, but will lead it out.

In a separate toilet, it is not necessary to take such measures, but still experts recommend laying a vapor barrier at least pointwise, in problem areas– around pipes, ventilation holes, doorways, where condensation may occur.

1. Cladding with decorative ceramic tiles.

In this case, the tiles will perfectly protect the foam concrete from dampness; only it is advisable to make the seams between the tiles as thin as possible and caulk them with a special grout containing moisture-resistant components. When using a simple mixture, mold or mildew may develop. But for perfect styling It is advisable to level the wall tiles and impregnate them with special deep penetration compounds.

In conclusion, it must be said that the use of foam blocks for laying bathroom and toilet partitions is the fastest and profitable option, which even a non-professional can handle. And with proper protection from moisture, a bathroom made of foam concrete will last for many years without repair.

If something remains unclear, we suggest looking at the photos and videos in this article, which will give a more complete picture of this topic.

Please tell me when laying bathroom walls from aerated blocks, do they need to be treated with something? As I understand it, gas blocks absorb moisture well; can they even be placed in the bathroom? Thanks in advance for your answer!

Answer: Yes you are right, aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, and in the bathroom you know there is always high air humidity. Having such a high ability to absorb moisture, aerated concrete blocks can be used for the construction of walls and partitions in bathrooms only after protective waterproofing measures have been taken after the construction of the walls.

The first thing you have to do is prime the entire surface of the bathroom walls with a deeply penetrating primer, for example ST-17 from Cerezit. The soil will provide you with the preparation of aerated block walls for applying a leveling layer of putty, for example ST-29.

Puttying the walls must be done very carefully, since a layer of putty will protect your aerated concrete from moisture. After the putty layer has dried, it is necessary to treat the floor and wall surfaces to a height of 200 mm from the floor level with waterproofing cement based Ceresit CR 65. Well, then tile moisture-resistant adhesive CM-17 from the same company and calmly lay ceramic tiles on the walls of your bathroom. After completing such work, you will reliably protect bathroom walls made of aerated blocks from moisture.

Please tell me when laying bathroom walls from aerated blocks, do they need to be treated with something? As I understand it, gas blocks absorb moisture well; can they even be placed in the bathroom? Thanks in advance for your answer!

Answer: Yes, you are right, aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, and in the bathroom you know there is always high air humidity. Having such a high ability to absorb moisture, aerated concrete blocks can be used for the construction of walls and partitions in bathrooms only after protective waterproofing measures have been taken after the construction of the walls.

The first thing you have to do is prime the entire surface of the bathroom walls with a deeply penetrating primer, for example ST-17 from Cerezit. The soil will provide you with the preparation of aerated block walls for applying a leveling layer of putty, for example ST-29.

Puttying the walls must be done very carefully, since a layer of putty will protect your aerated concrete from moisture. After the layer of putty has dried, you need to treat the floor and surface of the walls to a height of 200 mm from the floor level with cement-based waterproofing Ceresit CR 65. And then tile moisture-resistant adhesive SM-17 from the same company and calmly lay ceramic tiles on the walls of your bathroom. After completing such work, you will reliably protect bathroom walls made of aerated blocks from moisture.

The common belief that aerated concrete absorbs some of the water like a sponge is due to its porous structure, which is formed during the production process. At the same time, aerated concrete holds the accumulated volume of water within itself.

The insignificant level of water absorption of aerated concrete is due to the fact that the pores in this material are not only closed, but also open. Cellular aerated concrete absorbs moisture by 6-8%, as it has the property of hygroscopicity. Considering this property of blocks, it is necessary to create additional protection from moisture. Protection of the material is provided not only for the constructed walls, but also during transportation and storage.

According to experts, in order to thoroughly destroy aerated concrete, it is necessary for the aerated concrete to remain in direct contact with water for a long time, i.e., the aerated concrete must lie in water.

The finished aerated concrete block consists of approximately 75% pores. Moreover, the largest volume is accounted for by macropores, which form rounded voids and interpore partitions.

The operational humidity of aerated concrete products is 4-5%. At the same time, the critical humidity for the material, which entails its destruction, for aerated concrete with a density of 400 kg/m³ is 45-50%. Similar indicators for aerated concrete with a density of 500 kg/m³ are 40%.

Thanks to its porous structure, the material “breathes” and, accordingly, has high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. Absorption of large amounts of moisture leads to changes in these properties in the worst side. To ensure that aerated concrete does not absorb moisture, additional processing is carried out.

It actively absorbs moisture from environment during rain, sleet, and also in spring when the snow melts. If you do not create protection, aerated concrete can absorb up to 35% of moisture relative to its weight. This percentage of moisture sharply reduces thermal resistance, and the rooms become damp and cold. Aerated concrete may crack in winter if the premises were not warmed up in the fall and the material absorbed a large number of moisture.

The humidity of aerated concrete used to construct the wall of a building depends on the number of seasons of operation of the house, on the design of the wall and sorption capacity. For example, the moisture content of aerated concrete walls country house, which is not used for residential purposes during the cold season, does not play any important role. If mineral material aerated concrete is protected from precipitation by a reliable roof, then in this mode of use of the building it will always be unharmed.

Moisture can enter the room from below from a poor-quality foundation or from the junction of walls with the ground surface; outside, with changing seasons, precipitation; from the inside in case of improper operation of the air conditioning system, flooding.

According to the manufacturers, a certain amount of water can penetrate shallowly into the material, however, it is the capillary-porous structure of the block that allows it to release moisture back quite easily and quickly, i.e., the liquid does not linger for a long time in the structure of wetted aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete easily releases the accumulated part of the water outside; when the air in the room becomes too dry, a wall made of this material will provide humidification.

The amount of water that penetrates into aerated concrete primarily deteriorates it. thermal insulation properties. The higher the water absorption, the lower the actual thermal insulation properties of the material.

Aerated concrete walls, when saturated with water, create additional weight loads in the structures in which they are used. Accordingly, the higher the water absorption of aerated concrete, the greater the risk of an emergency.

The sphere of water itself is a destructive factor. The constant presence of water in aerated concrete can lead, at a minimum, to a decrease in strength.

Currently the greatest practical use We have found two methods to protect aerated concrete from water - waterproofing and hydrophobization.

Water repellents are compositions that are supplied in the form of concentrates or ready-to-use solutions, aqueous or in organic solvents. They do not create a surface film, but form a water-repellent (hydrophobic) layer up to several millimeters deep. The vapor permeability of the treated surface is almost not reduced, i.e. some of the water evaporates but does not get inside. The surface treated with a water-repellent agent, as a rule, does not change color. A hydrophobic coating significantly increases the frost resistance of any material.

These properties allow the use of water repellents for silicate and ceramic brick, concrete and aerated concrete, limestone, travertine, shell rock, granite, marble and even paving slabs.

The water-repellent effect is due to the penetration of the water repellent into aerated concrete to a depth of 5 to 50 mm, depending on its density and humidity. The water repellent is fixed after 12-24 hours. At the same time, crystals form in the capillaries of the material, which prevent water from penetrating into the aerated concrete. But this does not prevent air from entering.

As for waterproofing, experts note: largely exclude negative impact water on aerated concrete helps the construction of the wall. Ideally, the “pie” of the wall structure should be such that the outer layer is significantly more permeable to vapors than the inner one. This will not only effectively remove some of the water from the premises, but also prevent water from entering the house from the street. For example, Indastro Renoart RSi240 will help solve this problem.

To prevent the blocks from absorbing moisture, use various ways protection. Osnovit SSL15 Safescreen insulation with antiseptic properties also performed well.

Treatment inner surface walls with a deep penetration primer (acrylic primer Ekorum) followed by treatment with putty for interior work. This creates a vapor barrier. To create such a barrier, you cannot use traditional plaster without treating it with a primer and gluing it to the surface of the wallpaper. When using traditional plaster, the aerated concrete becomes damp from moisture from inside the room. The plaster is cracking and peeling. Treatment outside the wall is held gypsum plaster, cement-sand is not suitable, as it peels off. Treatment with gypsum plaster is carried out once every 2-3 years.

Using decorative materials to decorate the outside of walls, such as tiles, stone, and so on. The decoration will protect the layer of plaster on the surface of the aerated concrete. Big choice decorative coatings.

The outer side is lined with brick. Pick up a brick. Since the cement-sand mortar allows steam to pass well between brickwork and a wall made of aerated concrete, leave air gap. The width of the gap is approximately half a brick. In construction in this way, one small problem arises: how to fix the facade wall if it is being built with a gap. The problem is solved using anchor elements, which are installed every 5 rows of laid brick. It is not recommended to use ordinary reinforcement or steel angles as anchors, as these elements are susceptible to corrosion. Over time, a tight connection between load-bearing wall and there will be no façade. Facade wall will collapse. Fiberglass or stainless steel, popular on the building materials market, is used as anchors.

Finishing the facade with siding. The method is much worse than brickwork; it is not recommended to use it, since there are a lot of hidden problems after the work is completed. Of course, the finishing may look beautiful and the price is several times lower, but the durability of a building made of aerated concrete will decrease.

The use of reinforced concrete sandwich panels, which are based on shipbuilding concrete with a water resistance value of W.

Together with interior finishing and external walls foundation waterproofing work is carried out using aerated concrete, since moisture can penetrate through an improperly constructed foundation. To do this, when building walls, aerated concrete blocks are laid above ground level from 30 to 50 cm.

With quality equipment window openings, decorative ledges and roofs with drainage systems, as well as high-quality waterproofing of the base, a house made of aerated concrete can stand for decades without the occurrence of any structural defects.

When carrying out construction work, do not leave aerated concrete under open air, since when it rains, moisture is absorbed very quickly and its properties deteriorate. It is not recommended to unpack the aerated concrete completely.

It is not recommended to build structures made of aerated concrete from November to March. During this same period, it is not advisable to plaster the wall surfaces. Excessive moisture will worsen the properties of the block, and when the plaster dries in a hotter, drier period, it will peel off and crumble. In this case everything plastering work must be repeated.

The ability of aerated concrete material to absorb moisture is caused by its cellular structural structure, formed during the manufacture of blocks. At the same time, the aerated concrete retains the accumulated moisture inside itself. The degree of water absorption is explained by the fact that the voids in the blocks are not only closed view, but also open. Aerated concrete cells absorb about six to eight percent moisture because they are hygroscopic. Taking into account this feature, protection of aerated concrete from moisture from the outside must be organized. It is performed not only for walls whose construction has been completed, but also during transportation of material and its storage.

Why protection is needed

The structure of an aerated concrete block is similar to a sponge.

The stone is able to “breathe”, while being distinguished by high thermal insulation and sound insulation capabilities. Absorption of water in significant quantities causes deviations in these indicators towards their deterioration. To exclude such a manifestation, it is necessary to waterproof the aerated concrete.

Note that the blocks are actively saturated with moisture during rain, wet snow, and in the spring season. If you do not protect their surface, the material will absorb up to thirty-five percent of its water content. total weight. A room built from such material will be damp and cool. In addition, wet blocks when severe frost may crack.

Moisture can penetrate into blocks in three ways: through a poorly made foundation, from the outside in the form of precipitation, from the inside due to poor air conditioning or during flooding.

Methods of protection

Blocks are protected in two ways:

1. Hydrophobization of aerated concrete - the use of compounds supplied in ready-to-use or concentrated form. They do not form a film on the surface, but at a certain depth they form a layer that repels moisture. The vapor permeability of the surface remains virtually unchanged; water partially evaporates without getting inside. This type of coating does not change the shade of the surface and improves the material’s resistance to frost. Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete can be used for silicate or ceramic brick wall, concrete, limestone, granite, shell rock and even paving slabs.
2. Waterproofing is the second way to protect aerated concrete from moisture. In this case experienced specialists claim that the negative impact of water on the material in most cases can be excluded the correct device walls IN ideal The “pie” of the wall should be composed so that the outer layers are more vapor permeable than the inner ones. This will make it possible to remove some of the moisture from the room and protect the object from water entering from the street.

Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete penetrates to a depth of 0.5 to 5 cm and is fixed within a day.

How to treat aerated concrete blocks from moisture outside? There are several popular ways to do this:

• The walls from the inside are primed and covered with plaster. This measure allows you to create a vapor barrier. Regular plaster compositions in this case they are not suitable, since aerated concrete begins to absorb moisture from the room, and the plaster layer cracks and peels off. It is best to use gypsum-based compounds;
• treatment of aerated concrete from moisture can be performed decorative tiles, stone, etc. Decorative material will create reliable protection for aerated concrete surfaces;
• external walls can be lined with bricks, leaving a gap for ventilation;
• the façade is finished with siding panels. This method is considered somewhat worse than installing brickwork, because after the work is completed it leaves a large number of hidden problems. Naturally, this finishing option looks attractive, and its cost is more acceptable. But there is one problem - the operational period of aerated concrete is reduced;

• the walls are finished with reinforced concrete sandwich panels, which are based on concrete with a high resistance to moisture;
• at finishing works The walls are waterproofed under aerated concrete blocks so that moisture does not penetrate into the room through the foundation. For this purpose, during the construction of the wall, the blocks are laid at a height of thirty to fifty centimeters from the surface of the earth.

The external attractiveness of a building constructed from aerated concrete material should be maintained not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

Periodicity repair work depends on wisely selected materials and compliance technological features carrying out work.

Carrying out interior work, adhere to two main principles:

• strive to maintain the vapor permeability of the material;
• create maximum vapor barrier inside the rooms.

Vapor-permeable finishing is done with plaster solutions consisting of gypsum, sand, and lime. In this case, primer impregnation for aerated concrete against moisture is not used. Wallpaper is perfectly applied to such a surface.

With vapor barrier everything is much simpler. Most easy option– for any finishing material lay down plastic film. But in practice, the method is not used, since the walls swell due to accumulated moisture.

An excellent solution is hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete, which is applied in several layers.

Now let’s figure out how to protect aerated concrete from moisture from the outside. An object whose walls are completely finished must be maintained for no more than six months. This period is necessary for the block material to completely shrink and dry.

It is recommended to carry out external finishing after the internal work has been completed. This is due to the properties of the transition of vapors from inside to outer part walls and then to the street. If the sequence is violated, cracks will appear in the aerated concrete structure in any case. This will cause the plaster layer to peel off, reducing the service life of the building.

Option exterior finishing can take place in two directions:

• a ventilated façade system is created;
• external surfaces are plastered.

It is quite rare to find objects on which combined option block protection. Ventilated facades are lined with brickwork, covered with siding and slabs imitating natural materials.

Select a plastering material that provides optimal protection, is quite difficult, because aerated concrete blocks have the ability to “breathe”. Vapors and moisture move in two directions, causing peeling and crumbling of the plaster layer.

The optimal solution is the use of porous plaster compositions.

When choosing such a material, it is necessary to take into account a number of its properties:

• high level of adhesion;
• low level of capillary moisture absorption;
• minimal shrinkage;
• resistance to frost and other atmospheric conditions.

Suitable for processing the base plaster mortar, different:

• good adhesion;
• high strength and moisture-repellent effect;
• increased frost resistance.

Experienced craftsmen will always tell you which water repellent for aerated concrete is better. In addition, they will be able to give useful tips for the conduct of work.

You should not leave aerated concrete material open, because during rain it will become saturated with moisture, and some of its properties will deteriorate.

Should not be carried on construction works from such material from the end of the autumn season to mid-spring. At the same time, it is not advisable to plaster the walls, since the material contains a lot of moisture. You shouldn’t rush to install the plaster layer either. If you do not maintain it for a certain time, then a layer will be created on the block surface that has low level vapor permeability.

Do not perform work in autumn season. When the heating is turned on, moisture moves towards the street, creating condensation vapors under the plaster. Excess moisture causes the finishing material to crumble.

If short-term conservation of an object is planned, water drainage is ensured from horizontal surfaces. On the visors are installed protective screens, window sill areas are covered plastic film. The surface of the walls is left open.

We found out how to treat aerated concrete from moisture. It is known from reviews that aerated concrete stones easily transfer some accumulated moisture when the air inside becomes too dry. In such a case, walls made of such material provide moisture.

It must be remembered that the amount of water in the block pores deteriorates the thermal insulation properties of the material. In addition, a wall saturated with moisture creates a load on the foundation, which increases the likelihood of accidents.

Conclusion

Moisture is considered a destructive element. Her presence in aerated concrete material on an ongoing basis will lead to a decrease in its strength. If you equip the openings with high quality window designs, decorative projections and roof drainage systems, waterproof the foundation base, an object made of aerated concrete blocks will be able to operate for a long period without the formation of structural defects on its walls. By performing the work correctly, you will reliably protect the house from premature destruction.