There are several types of plaster. Plaster can be gypsum, cement-lime and cement-sand. Each has its own pros and cons. And the better to plaster the walls, now we'll figure it out.

Gypsum plaster the most optimal option for indoor plastering. Glued firmly to the surface, easy to handle when plastering. Such plaster is relevant if the plaster layer does not exceed 5 cm. Otherwise, it is better to use drywall.

Cement-lime plaster very relevant in the plastering of the walls of cottages, where there are large wall areas, there is a place to store lime mortar and there is a place for a concrete mixer. Cement-lime plaster is as warm as gypsum plaster, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.

Cement-sand plaster hard and cold. Its only correct application is facade plastering. Plastering indoors with cement-sand plaster is not profitable either from a financial point of view, or in terms of the convenience of plastering.

Cement-lime plaster of walls

We used ready-made lime-sand plaster and added cement to it as a plasticizer.

For 8 parts of lime-sand plaster, 1 part of M-500 cement was added.

After the beacons were exposed and frozen, we got a layer of 10-20 mm. thick. Therefore, we made a very liquid solution (like semolina).

Before plastering, the wall should be moistened with plenty of water.
After you have thrown the plaster on the wall and cut off the excess, the rule is to let it stand for half an hour, and then rub it with a trowel.

The cement-lime plaster will dry completely within a week.

How and what to plaster the walls

Plasterers have such a concept as plaster for a rule, and plaster for beacons. As a rule - stupidity, especially since such work is not much cheaper, and the quality suffers. I believe that if you do, then you need to do it normally, which means that you do not spare either time or money to do plastering walls on lighthouses.

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We make markings on the wall for the lighthouses. We drill and screw the screws with dowels into the wall (upper and lower) and set them according to the rule and bubble level so that they are vertical and the protrusions on the wall do not interfere with the rule. We do this only at the extreme lighthouses.

Then pull the lace on these screws and tighten the screws that will be in the middle, thereby you get the perfect vertical plane. It is optimal to use 4 self-tapping screws for a beacon of 2.5 meters. Thus, you will never transmit a beacon more than necessary. The middle beacons, the step of which is 20 cm less than the length of the rule, are made according to the same principle. The lace is pulled horizontally and self-tapping screws are exposed.

Then we put beacons on these screws and coat them with gypsum plaster. When coated, we check, as a rule, the evenness of the lighthouse. As the lighthouses harden, you can plaster.

Plastering the walls is done as follows: the plaster is thrown onto the wall from the bottom up, then the rule (also from the bottom up) cut off the excess solution that protruded from the lighthouses. The rule can be pulled by slightly shaking to the left and right, this is especially convenient when a lot of excess solution is removed - it is easier to pull.

In the end, I wanted to show a video on how to plaster walls, this video shows everything that I told about in this article.

Video how to plaster walls

Cracks in plaster

It will be about cracks that appeared the next day after applying the plaster. There can be several reasons for the appearance of cracks in the plaster, which we will analyze.

If you are plastering with gypsum plaster, then you must first prime the walls. Otherwise, the walls will strongly absorb moisture from the plaster, which will cause cracks. Before applying cement-sand and limestone, the walls must be moistened abundantly with water for the same reasons.

When applying plaster layers more than 15 mm. cracks may also appear.

Plaster dries too quickly when it is hot outside and you ventilate the room. The plaster should dry for several days.

Not a high-quality solution, it often happens when you manually prepare a solution and add the wrong proportions of components. Or you add something of your own, which is not provided by the factory, the manufacturer of ready-made plasters.

If cracks appear in the plaster, then you need to knock with your fist near them, if you hear a characteristic ringing sound, this means the plaster has moved away from the wall and you need to knock it down and re-plaster this place. If the sound is dull, then it's okay, these cracks will be hidden with putty.

Lastly, advice: pull out the plastering beacons after plastering the walls. Although they are considered galvanized, after 3-5 years rust will appear which will force you to make repairs again.

The alignment of the walls inside the room is performed with plaster mixtures, when choosing a material, you need to know what the structure is made of. The strength and durability of the plaster depends on the correct choice of mixture. This article describes the best way to plaster the walls inside the house.

Gypsum compositions

Houses differ in building materials, therefore they have different thermal efficiency or vapor barrier, the choice of plaster mixture will depend on this.

The most popular is gypsum-based plaster, while it is very easy to work with it, and the drying process is very fast.
The most important component of this plaster is gypsum.

And the rest of the additives, which provide the material with plasticity and strength, are additions. The dry material is diluted with water, it thickens within an hour, therefore, the composition must be prepared in such an amount that it can be used at a time, without leaving it for later.

The mixture is prepared according to the special instructions indicated on the package, and not "by eye".

Thanks to the correct work, you can get a high-quality mixture, as well as prevent errors during application, and various problems during operation, such as cracks or smudges.
The gypsum type of plaster is used only for interior decoration, while the humidity should not be high. In some rooms with high humidity, such a composition is not used, since the material accumulates moisture, as a result of which mold occurs.

The possibility of vapor permeability of the plaster composition depends on the manufacturer. For example, Rotbandom's composition is not used for plastering houses from a foam block, since it removes moisture from the house through the pores.

For such a material, the Volma Layer mixture is excellent. Therefore, before purchasing, you must familiarize yourself with the scope of the material, this should be indicated on the packaging.

Cement-type mixtures

Now on the market there is a very large number of dry mixes for plaster.

The required composition can be selected taking into account the cost, amount of work, and conditions of use.

It should be borne in mind that the compositions of gypsum and cement types have different costs, but almost the same amount of material is spent on one site, since a mixture of gypsum is considered more economical.
Such a solution has a distinctive feature in that it is used not only for working from the inside, but also for finishing outside, due to its water-repellent qualities.

Cement is not hygroscopic, therefore compaction additives increase the water repellency of the cement slurry.

Thus, the cement composition has a high resistance to moisture, and can be used in the bathroom, toilets or in the kitchen. Cement-based plaster mix is ​​very durable, adheres well to any material, and also has a long service life.

Cement-plastered surfaces are characterized by increased resistance to mechanical damage, and can be used not only for wall decoration, but for repairing individual sections of surfaces.

But cement-based plaster has its drawbacks. If there is no work experience, it is difficult to apply, in contrast to the gypsum composition. First, you need to learn how to prepare a mixture of different consistencies. It is also necessary to remember that such a mixture is very heavy, therefore, when a large layer is applied, reinforcement is performed using a metal mesh.

There are also mortars made from sand, cement, and lime, they have been used for a very long time in construction. Such compositions are characterized by low cost, and also prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

Many add components in an arbitrary amount, which subsequently leads to cracking or flaking of the surfaces. In order for the solution to be of high quality, it is necessary to observe the correct proportions, all components should not be expired, and the sand is taken in the middle fraction.

Polymer type plaster

In addition to mixtures of gypsum and cement, there is a polymer type of plaster.

Such material is not used for leveling surfaces; it serves as a decorative coating on a flat wall. You can also make decorative plaster from gypsum with your own hands.
Plaster polymer mixtures can have different compositions that help to make the surface of different textures and colors.

The solution is applied in a small layer to a concrete, cement or plasterboard surface. Such mixtures are highly resistant to moisture, so they can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Plasters are divided into different types, it depends on the added binder, they can be acrylic, silicate, silicone or siloxane.

Polymer-based plaster solutions adhere well to surfaces and can hide minor irregularities or other imperfections. To seal minor cracks, this compound is used with fiberglass mesh.

Such compositions are waterproof, resistant to mechanical stress, capable of passing steam, thanks to this, mold and mildew do not form on the surface. This type of material helps to improve the soundproofing and thermal insulation qualities in the room.

To apply plaster, you do not need special skill, this work can be done even by a person who has no experience, since the mixture has high plasticity and fits well on the surface. When working, use ordinary tools, that is, a spatula, trowel and other ordinary plastering items.

What is the best material to choose?

When choosing a material for plastering walls from the inside, you need to take into account that it is easier to work with gypsum, but this type of composition is not used in all rooms.

Since it is not resistant to moisture, it cannot be used in washrooms, bathrooms or kitchens, otherwise it will absorb moisture and become moldy. This will spoil the appearance of the surface, and destroy the material itself, which will lead to the need for new repairs.

If you plan to decorate the walls in a dry room, then this type of material will be ideal, it fits well on the surface, dries quickly, and creates ease of use.

There is a large selection of universal plasters on the market today that may be suitable for any premises, but they will differ in their cost.

The cement type of plaster material has high resistance to humidity, therefore it can be used both indoors and outdoors, it is used in rooms with high humidity, also for finishing the basements of corridors or utility rooms that are not heated or provided with minimal heating.

An excellent option for finishing the premises from the inside is decorative plaster.

It can be used to treat the surface of walls inside and outside, since the material is resistant to moisture. In addition to various additives, the mixture includes various colors that can be selected immediately without resorting to further surface treatment. This type of material is distinguished by ease of use, antiseptic qualities, the ability to use in wet rooms, after finishing, the surface has an attractive appearance.

Thus, when choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account the microclimate of the room, as well as all the features of the plaster composition.

Some mixtures are not suitable for finishing rooms with high humidity. There are a lot of modern materials on the market that allow you to make the surface of the original, without additional processing.

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DIY wall plaster

Plaster is a finishing material that is a hardening mortar.

How to plaster walls correctly

The plastering process consists of several stages.

What is the best way to plaster concrete walls?

To achieve a quality result, follow all our recommendations.

Surface preparation for plastering

First of all, you need to thoroughly clean the surface. If you plaster the ceiling, then you need to wash off the old whitewash. It is necessary to remove wallpaper, paint, dust and dirt from the walls.

Depending on the base material, sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional preparatory work (fix the shingles, deepen the seams of the brickwork, etc.).

For more details, read the article Features of plastering different surfaces on our website.

We ground the walls

The primer ensures the adhesion of the plaster and strengthens it. For brick walls, a regular primer is suitable, for aerated concrete or sand-lime brick, it is better to use a deep penetration primer, for a concrete surface, use a concrete contact.

We align the walls with plaster

Using the level and the rule, it is necessary to measure the curvature of the walls and make markings for the lighthouses.

For more information, read the article Aligning walls with plaster on beacons.

Preparing the solution

Plaster is produced on the basis of materials such as gypsum, lime or cement.

What material is more suitable for your wall, how to properly prepare the solution, what proportions must be observed and much more, you will learn by reading the article How to choose a plaster and make a mixture.

Apply plaster

Walls should be plastered in 3 stages, or rather in 3 layers:

Spray - the first layer of plaster, the thickness of which does not exceed 5 mm. This layer is more liquid than the subsequent ones, it penetrates well into small cracks.

The primer is a thicker layer that provides the required thickness for the finish.

Covering - the last layer no more than 2 mm.

This layer serves for the final leveling of the plaster.

How to plaster walls with a trowel

The solution is applied with a trowel (spatula). For plastering, it is better to use two trowels: a long one and a short one. With a short spatula, apply the solution to a long one, throw the solution onto the wall with sharp strokes.

After that, it is necessary to run the rule from the bottom up several times, leveling the solution and removing its excess.

The last time the rule needs to be drawn from top to bottom (for final alignment).

Each layer can only be applied after the previous one has completely dried!

Plaster grout

While the topcoat is still fresh, rub off the plastered surface.

This procedure is performed using a grater. The grater must be pressed firmly against the wall and rotated counterclockwise in a circular motion. After circular grouting, streaks will remain on the surface. To remove them, you need to once again go through the "distillation" float, as shown in the figure.

Internal wall plastering is complete.

After the plaster has dried, you can glue the wallpaper or carry out other final finishing work.

You can find out more about the technology of plastering not only walls, but also slopes, as well as internal and external corners, in our article Plastering slopes and corners.

To be fully aware of this issue, we strongly recommend that you watch various video materials on plastering walls with your own hands.

Plaster is used to level the walls, protect the walls from moisture. At the same time, it is a coating that allows walls to breathe in order to obtain different surface textures in order to increase the power of thin partitions. The plaster has acoustic insulation properties.

Pasting walls is a rather complicated process, but it can still be done manually.

How to draw a wall for plastering work

To apply a coat of fresh plaster, remove the wall and old plaster from the wall that is not on the wall.

If the surface of the wall is smooth, then the chisel is cut or brushed. In the wall, we expand the seams to a depth of 1-2 cm. In addition, the surface of the walls is carefully removed from dust (this is possible with a vacuum cleaner).

Before moistening, the walls are moistened.

Cleaning rooms in the apartment: how to choose, characteristics and advantages

If the walls are wooden, they need to use nail plaster. On the walls, it is recommended to touch the guides that will establish the plaster plane. All debris near the walls is removed and a plastic wrap is placed on the floor as part of the mortar falls off.

When the wall is ready, the plaster can burst violently.

Do not apply plaster mortar to a concrete wall. Plaster and cement go into a chemical reaction, the gypsum expands and disintegrates, and the gypsum penetrates the concrete wall and breaks it down. To prevent this, the wall is treated with a 4 mm thick mortar. Do not mask walls with plaster mortar.

In these places, the plaster will be cracked. Care should be taken to cover heating elements with plaster.

Plastering solution

Ready mix for plastering walls is sold in stores.

Dilute it with water, strictly following the instructions on the package. If the mortar is too thick, it can be reduced to the desired consistency with a little water.

Use plaster

The plaster on the wall is applied by spraying.

The amount of mortar required on this site should be used on the wall. Using a sharp hand motion, use the mortar to stick it to the wall and not stick.

If there is no spray, wall plastering can be done using a shelf.

This method is simpler, but at the same time more time consuming. The shelf is made of wood. Its width and height are 12 cm, length is 1 m. The mortar is installed on a shelf, adheres tightly to the guide rails on the wall and slowly rises from the bottom up, shaking the shelf with a small voltage amplitude. The shelf is constantly tilted against the wall so that the mortar can fall onto it.

Flexible gypsum

The plaster is used only a few hours after application, when the mortar becomes firm, but it is not fully understood.

If you start to cook prematurely, the plaster from the wall as a whole can be emptied, and if it is too late, the plaster will become tough and cannot be leveled.

Wipe the solution with a special 2x12x100 cm plate that has two handles. This is called a semilater. Half of the staff squeeze against the wall and we make smooth circular movements.

The guide bars will prevent you from cutting out more malt than necessary.

24 hours after grouting, the guide rails are removed from the wall and the grooves are filled with grout and rinsed.

If quality work is preferable, then reinstall the rails and continue harassing the walls.

Layers of the solution applied once should not exceed 2-3 cm, and if a thicker layer is required, it is applied in several layers 2 cm thick. The interval between laying a layer is 2-3 days.

Dry plaster without additional heaters. Otherwise, the solution will decompose and fall.

Shading in shadow

Before starting to fill the walls, they must be filled.

This will bind dust particles and improve the adhesion of the kits to the plaster. To work you need a wide and narrow spatula. Apply a narrow spatula to a large number of whales and place it on the wall with one sweeping motion from corner to middle. Excess putty was removed after each use. All layers overlap. When installing the kit in the center of the wall, move the blade from the bottom to the top and remove excess using smooth semi-circular motions.

The first layer of the kit should not exceed a thickness of 0.5 mm to 25 mm. Allow to dry.

The final stage. The surface of the dry first coat is again primed and a final coat 0.2 mm thick is applied. They perform the smallest cracks and smooth mic elements. After applying the last layer of stone, the wall gets a smooth surface that requires almost no sanding.

If the wall is ready to be painted, then puttying and shredding performed in bright side lighting that brings out the smallest errors.

After sanding, the wall is ready for further processing.

Rarely what kind of construction a house or a major overhaul of an apartment without plastering the walls. As a rule, such work is carried out at the last stage of the repair.

After filling and priming, the surfaces become even and smooth, which allows them to be painted or pasted over with wallpaper.

If you know the basic rules for applying the mixture, then finishing plastering the walls with your own hands will not become an insurmountable problem.

What is surface treatment required for?

To level walls with large defects, a special solution called plaster is used.

It has a coarse-grained consistency, which allows you to correct irregularities up to five centimeters.

It also has a very important protective function - improving the thermal insulation and moisture resistance of the lined surface. Both ordinary and decorative mixtures are on sale.

The application of this mixture is considered a rough finishing step. In no case should you skip this stage of the repair, because the curved walls will become very noticeable after painting or pasting wallpaper.

Therefore, it is better to do all the necessary work once, but as it should.

A prerequisite before starting any finishing work is to clean any surface from dirt and construction dust.

If it is necessary to plaster a concrete surface, then it is necessary first of all to treat it with cement milk.

This slurry of cement will give the desired roughness and better bond the finish to the surface.

Decorative plaster allows you to apply up to 8 layers, but it should be borne in mind that their total thickness should not be more than 20 mm.

Do not apply the next layer of the solution until the previous one has dried. If the work takes place in a hot season or at high temperatures, it is recommended to periodically moisten the work surface to avoid cracking.

Types of plaster mixes

There are the following types of plasters for wall cladding:

• Dry;
• Wet;
• Stone;
• Colored;
• Terrazitic;
• Graffito;
• Venetian.

There is such a thing as "dry".

In this case, ready-made gypsum plasterboards are used for installation on walls for leveling.

"Wet" is a veneering method that is prepared just before application.

Colored decorative plaster contains a dye, which gives it a shade.

Stone. The stone effect is done after the layer has hardened a little. Terrazitic is distinguished by its similarity to rocks. It is mainly used for facades.

Graffito is a type of artistic cladding that allows you to create various patterns and designs.

Venetian, which is called liquid marble. To achieve this effect, many thin layers of the mixture must be applied. In this case, the drawing must be performed chaotically.

Finishing plaster and its types

The finishing mix is ​​different from the rough mix. It has a different texture and makes the walls perfectly smooth. This mixture is intended for repairing small defects or scratches.

If this work is done well, then the painting and wallpaper will look great.

The main types of finishing plaster:

• Plaster;
• Cement-sand;
• Acrylic-polymer;
• Cement-lime.

For work in dry interiors, for example, when decorating a living room, plaster mix is ​​perfect.

Facade and external walls, as a rule, are finished with a cement-sand mixture that can withstand moisture and is resistant to different temperatures.

Experts say the easiest to work with is an acrylic-polymer mixture. Another recommendation from the masters, what is the composition of the rough plaster layer, such a composition must be selected when finishing the walls.

Do-it-yourself finishing plaster of walls step by step

First you need to think over and prepare all the necessary tools that you may need in the process of work.

Decide on the choice of mixtures - starting and finishing.

The next step is to prepare the plaster solution. The prepared solution should be taken up with a narrow spatula and a small amount should be applied to a wide spatula.

This mixture should be applied to the wall in vertical stripes.

How to plaster walls with your own hands

You need to continue working until the solution runs out.

When the treated area is lined, it is necessary to let it dry well.

After the surface has dried, you need to polish the surface. To do this, you can use a special machine or just a skin.

The last step is to apply a layer of primer to the polished smooth walls.

It is important to know that the thickness of the finishing layer should not exceed 3 mm.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the finishing plaster of the walls with your own hands can be done without much difficulty. The main thing is to approach each stage of work with all responsibility.

Useful video on the topic:

If, starting with the choice of tools and materials and before treating surfaces with a primer, everything is done according to the rules, then the result will delight everyone.

Each master can become a designer of his house or apartment, you just need to trust your taste and imagination.

When self-building or purchasing an apartment without interior decoration, you need to make the right choice than to plaster the walls, since the construction market offers a large assortment of ready-made dry mixes and their components separately. Packaged materials for plaster have their own nuances in preparation technology, drying time and performance. A significant factor is the difference in the cost of a do-it-yourself solution and a factory product. The arguments for branded mixtures are dosage accuracy and quality.

What to choose from

Performing a reliable and geometrically correct wall covering in the house creates a base surface for subsequent finishing, installation of decorative elements in the form of gypsum panels, ceramic tiles, roll materials or paint. Even if in the future the walls in the apartment will be sheathed with clapboard along the crate, you need to close the brickwork with a coarse layer of plaster mortar.

Inside or outside the house, wall plaster performs the following functions:

• forms a flat, geometrically correct surface with the possibility of subsequent decorative finishing;
• increases the thermal resistance of the outer walls;
• improves the sound insulation of the room;
• creates a base with a sufficiently high adhesion (in comparison with brick, monolithic concrete, natural stone) for work with adhesives, finishing liquid coatings;
• protects materials of construction from environmental influences, in particular mortar joints.

On the example of products from well-known manufacturers, it can be seen that various brands of dry mixes are specially given the required properties:

The construction market offers dry mixes containing already dosed binders, fillers and additives, plasticizers, packed in paper or plastic bags of various capacities. It remains to mix them thoroughly with a given amount of water at a specified temperature (to dissolve some plasticizers, you need warm water and repeated stirring with interruptions to sediment).

Self-cooking

Cement or lime mortars for plaster, diluted with their own hands, are also prepared according to different recipes, depending on which room the plastered surface will serve.

They are usually applied in a layer of 20 to 50 mm. In outdoor work, where frequent temperature drops are expected, a reinforcing mesh is used for strengthening, stuffed onto the wall. To ensure a flat plane, beacons are used. They are installed using a level and a plumb line strictly vertically. After filling with the solution, you need to make a control measurement.

PVA glue, liquid glass, synthetic detergents are used as additives when working in the cold season.

The subtleties of the process, how to plaster a facing brick without beacons, inside the technological room is presented in the video:

For self-preparation, some experience is required, so first you should prepare a trial batch of the solution according to a previously unfamiliar recipe and plaster a small area as an experiment.

Types of plaster mixes

Obtaining a high-quality, long-term, durable coating depends on how and with what you need to plaster the walls for specific operating conditions. The manufacturer's instructions indicate not only the technology for preparing the solution, but, most importantly, the technical characteristics of the resulting coating.

The standard division by type of plaster looks like this:

1. Heat shielding. The main task is to insulate the selected room, laid technological communications and life support systems (water supply, ventilation shafts, heat supply wiring, sewerage). An increase in the heat-shielding characteristics of such plasters is achieved by the addition of synthetic additives (granular polystyrene foam, foam glass) and natural fillers (expanded vermiculite perlite). It has a low specific gravity and high thermal resistance. It maintains a given microclimate in the room. They are used in combination with other types of plasters - the masonry must first be covered with cement mortar, which forms a solid base, then, after a layer of heat-insulating mortar, it must be well covered with a protective or finishing material.
2. Soundproof. It is also called acoustic, as it serves to reduce the level of noise that penetrates the wall from the outside, and prevents the propagation of sounds from the inside of the house. It is used more in industrial and public premises (concert halls, cinemas, sports complexes). In residential areas, soundproofing compounds are applied under cladding with natural or artificial stone, ceramic tiles. The thermal insulation and acoustic layers do not mix - the resulting combination cracks.
3. Waterproofing. The composition of this material is designed to maintain durability in plaster walls in humid climates. Protection of the wall from moisture and water vapor is provided by the addition of various polymer components to the cementitious base of cement, which impart waterproofness to the solidified mass. Waterproofing on the inner walls should be applied taking into account the temperature regime (insulation) of the given room. In cold air, condensation will constantly settle on the front surface, which is harmful to the cladding materials.
4. Universal. The most common materials in the practice of use are materials with a basic binder: cement, gypsum, various resins with polymer additives. They combine the advantages of 3 other types. According to its characteristics, it protects well against heat loss, moisture penetration, having average indicators in sound insulation.

The appearance of the heat-insulating external plaster is shown in the photo:

The estimated thickness of the application layer to obtain the desired effect of thermal insulation can significantly exceed 5 cm. Then it is divided into 2 values ​​and the walls are plastered on both sides (outside and inside).

Special cases

In technical rooms (workshop, garage, laboratory), the problem arises, the better to plaster the walls, if there is a high probability of exposure to aggressive chemicals or other harmful factors (for example, radiation).

For these cases it is necessary to choose special mixtures. The composition of this type of plaster is specified in detail at the stage of drawing up project documentation.

In the residential sector, they are used very rarely, the significant cost of the material justifies itself in industrial areas or places of residual ionizing radiation.

Technology features

The practical decision in what to plaster the walls, and which tool to choose, depends on the size of the area of ​​the planned work and the established deadlines for their implementation. To increase the speed, special equipment is used. There are machines for large-scale construction and miniature installations that are available for do-it-yourself grouting. An example of such a machine throwing operation is shown in the photo.

For plastering with the help of such an apparatus, it is necessary to make a solution of a certain consistency (liquid enough for a continuous passage through the nozzle).

• plastering work is carried out at a temperature set by the manufacturer of the mixture (instructions). The cement-sand mortar is suitable for work if the room has a positive temperature of 5 ° C to 30 ° C;
• the next layer of wet plaster is applied only after the previous one has dried;
• the layering of lime mortar on gypsum plaster often leads to its flaking;
• the entire period of work, it is necessary to periodically monitor the preservation of a flat surface by the building rule;
• beacons should be removed from the beginner to gain the strength of the solution, otherwise rust will appear over time.

It is necessary to determine which plaster is better to cover the walls, based on financial capabilities, available experience, established terms of readiness for operation (gypsum compositions dry much faster than cement ones), the type of surface to be treated.

It is better to plaster indoors with lime mortar, lime-gypsum, lime-clay, cement-lime, lime-clay-gypsum mortars. Wooden walls can be covered with a solution with the addition of gypsum.

For plastering work on the external walls, take a cement-lime, lime mortar or cement-clay mortars.

Repair of damaged old plaster is carried out with cement mortar.

It is advisable to reinforce the corners at which mechanical action is possible during operation with a special corner and a plaster mesh, as in the photo.

For internal and external walls of the same room, different solutions are used, accelerated drying of the plaster leads to its cracking and flaking. The finished surface must be tapped to detect exfoliated voids.

Today, the situation when an apartment in a new building meets with bare walls without any decoration and plaster is the norm. Faced with this, the owners are deploying a large-scale renovation of the entire apartment. And one of the first things to do is to plaster the walls. To perform this type of work, you need to know how to plaster walls and be able to use the tool.

• The steel brush is useful for cleaning the surface. Brushes can vary in size and hardness.
• Bouchard, Trojans, and gears will be used to make notches. Bouchard is a heavy, scalloped hammer.
• Scraper for applying plaster.
• The falcon is used for convenience, a single portion of plaster mortar is applied to it, which will then be applied to the walls.
• The mortar is mixed with a plastering trowel, applied to the wall surface and triturated.
• It is convenient to level the solution over the surface with a scraper.
• A grater is needed for grouting plaster.
• The rule is to control the flatness of the surface.
• A level or plumb line is required for control in the horizontal direction.
• Plaster mix. We will talk about the best way to plaster the walls later.

Rules for applying plaster

It is necessary to correctly plaster the walls in three layers, remove the excess mortar with a wide trapezoidal spatula

Preparation: ensure adhesion

1. We clean the surface of dust, dirt, sagging.

2. Wet the surface with water. It is very convenient to do this from a garden sprayer, but if this is not possible, then you can use a broom.

3. If the wall is brick, we deepen the joints between the bricks by about 1 cm. This is necessary for better adhesion of the mortar to the surface.

4. If the wall is concrete and is a smooth surface, make notches on it with a gear and a hammer 15 mm long, 3 mm deep. There should be approximately 250 cuts for each m2. Then we clean the wall with a brush and moisten with water.

5. If the wall is wooden, we cut the boards and stuff the shingles on top. You can use plywood trims 15 mm wide and 4 mm thick and stuffed diagonally. As a result, you should get a diagonal lathing on the wall.

Important! Instead of shingles, you can use a netting. It must be stuffed on plywood strips, and not directly on the wall, the gap between the wall and the stack should be about 3 mm.

Solution application technique

1. We collect a portion of the plaster solution in the falcon.

2. Take the mortar from the falcon with a plastering spatula and throw it on the wall. It is most convenient to pick up the solution with the angle of the scapula, moving from yourself to the middle of the falcon. The throwing movement is carried out only with the hand, and not with the whole hand. We do not sweep too strong, otherwise the solution may spray.

Important! There is another way of applying - spreading. We put the falcon to the wall, take a portion of the solution with a spatula and spread it on the wall. But keep in mind, throwing in the mortar provides the best adhesion to the surface!

Splashing- the first layer of plaster with the consistency of liquid sour cream. Required for wooden walls and is 10 mm. This layer is not needed for concrete and brick walls.

Priming- the second layer of a pasty consistency - evens out irregularities. The thickness is 20 mm and no more, even if the layer is applied in several steps, this limit is maximum.

Nakryvka- the third layer again from a solution of a creamy consistency. Only this time it is necessary to approach its preparation more carefully. The thickness is 2-5 mm. The coating smoothes out all the remaining imperfections of the soil.

Important! For concrete and brick walls, plaster with a thickness of 5 mm is sufficient; for wooden walls, the layer should be 25 mm or more in order to completely cover the shingles or mesh.

3. We level the plaster mortar with a scraper. We drive it both horizontally and vertically. This must be done with each layer separately. The better we level the soil, the easier and more correct we will apply the cover. We level the spray only if drops of solution hang from it.

Important! Do not forget to control the evenness of the surface as a rule. And after leveling the cover, we wait until the solution dries.

4. Rub the surface with a float.

To begin with, we make a round grout. Press the grater firmly against the wall and make circular movements counterclockwise. All irregularities will be cut off by the edges of the grater.

Then we grout at a run. It is necessary to remove circular marks left after round grouting. We clean the grater from the remnants of the solution, press it to the surface and make sharp movements, waving, erasing the traces.

If the walls have significant irregularities, protrusions or other defects, then it is necessary to perform plaster on the beacons, if, of course, you want to get a perfectly flat surface horizontally and vertically.

If the walls are made of wood, brick or other material that nails easily enter, then wooden strips or metal beacons can be used as beacons: made of aluminum or steel.

If the walls are made of more durable material, then plaster or gypsum is used as beacons.

We set the lighthouses strictly according to the level

Stages of work:

1. At a distance of about 15-20 cm from the corner of the room or the beginning of the wall, make a plumb line. We drive in a nail at the top of the wall, hang a plumb line on a rope.

2. Prepare cement mortar or alabaster and strictly along the plumb line we throw small heaps of mortar on the wall. It is on them that we will mount the beacons. In an upright position, three such heaps are enough.

3. We take a lighthouse, for example, aluminum. We apply it to the piles of mortar and gently press in so that the outer edge of the lighthouse protrudes 15-20 mm from the wall. Be sure to check the level of the evenness of the location of the lighthouse.

4. Install the second beacon at the other edge of the wall. And another one in the middle between them. The technology is the same, only now it is necessary to check the level of their relative position so that it is the same. To do this, in addition to the vertical plumb line, you can stretch the twine horizontally.

Important! If the wall is very long, there should be more beacons. Approximately 1 m apart. We check the level of the location of the lighthouses.

5. Finally, we fix the beacons on the wall, covering their edges with a concrete mixture. We are waiting for the solution to harden and the beacons will firmly "sit" in place.

6. Apply the plaster in the same way as described above. We fill in all the cracks and potholes.

Important! The plaster layer should protrude 2-3 mm beyond the edges of the beacons.

7. We level the plaster with the rule. We apply it to the beacons, press down and, moving from the bottom up along the beacons, remove the excess layer of plaster.

8. If the mixture is not enough, we throw it, filling the voids. We continue to level and toss until the wall becomes even. Then we wait until the solution is dry. It will take 10-12 days.

Demonstrating how to properly plaster walls, a video describes in detail the technology for installing beacons and plaster on beacons.

After that, you can carry out "finishing" plastering of the walls or immediately putty.

The most difficult stage in plastering work is the slopes, window openings and corners.

Husk- an internal corner formed by the junction of two walls or a wall and a ceiling.

Usinok- an outer corner formed by two walls.

Slope plastering is the most difficult stage

Lighthouses are a good help in plastering slopes. In the places where the walls meet the ceiling, we establish a rule and throw the space under it with a solution.

We rub with a trowel. We fix all defects and check the evenness of the layer with the rule.

To plaster the vertical husk to the lighthouse, we put the rule at the bottom near the floor and fill the empty space with a solution. After a while, we remove the rule, under it should get a perfectly flat strip of solution. We are waiting for it to dry. We make the same strip at the top of the wall. These stripes will serve as horizontal beacons for us. Then we apply plaster to the empty space and level it relative to our lighthouses from the solution. We wipe out all small defects and irregularities.

In the case of useniks, it is convenient to nail a perfectly flat wooden plank onto the adjacent plastered wall and fix it near the edge so that it is convenient to level the mortar on it. We apply the plaster mixture to the slope. We level the solution with the rule if the wall is even. If we plaster the slope of a window opening, then for leveling we use an angle tool to maintain the correct angle near the window frame.

After the solution has dried, rub it with a grater. We check the level of evenness of the plaster. Then we remove the auxiliary strips.

How to plaster slopes: video

The better to plaster the walls

For plastering internal surfaces, it is best to choose the following mixtures: lime mortar, lime-clay, lime-clay-gypsum mortar, lime-gypsum or cement-lime mortar. If the walls are wooden, you can use a solution with the addition of plaster. The main thing to remember is that gypsum dries quickly.

For plastering external walls, use lime mortar, cement-lime or cement-clay mortar.

Cement mortars are used to repair old plaster and finish bulges.

Different mixtures are used for interior and exterior surfaces.

Mortar prepared from 1 part of lime dough and 1-5 parts of sand. The sand is added gradually until the solution is smooth. The mortar should stick slightly to the trowel and resemble dough.

Lime-clay mortar is a mixture of 1 part of batter, 1/3 of lime dough and 3-6 parts of sand. Stir the clay and lime dough, then gradually begin to add sand, continuing to stir.

Cement-lime mortar knead from 1 part cement, 1-3 parts of lime dough and 6-8 parts of sand. Add sand to dry cement and mix, add milk of lime and mix. If the dough is too thick, add a little water and stir.

Lime-gypsum mortar prepare from 1 part of gypsum and 3-4 parts of lime. We take a container, pour in water, pour out a thin layer of gypsum and mix quickly. You should get a not very thick homogeneous mass. Add lime mortar to it and mix.

Cement mortar it is most often used for thick layers of plaster or on external walls. Mix 1 part of cement and 2-5 parts of sand and, adding water, knead like dough.

If you choose the right solution for plastering the walls, follow all the recommendations on the application technology, this will greatly facilitate further finishing work.

Video: foam plaster

The facade, insulated with foam, can not be sheathed with clapboard or siding, but it is corny to plaster it. How to do this, the video material will tell:

We offer detailed complete instructions on the walls with our own hands. It will help even a novice master to cope with a difficult job.

Varieties of plaster mixes

Two types of materials are used to level surfaces. Their main difference lies in the base, on which all the characteristics of the solution depend. This could be:

• cement;
• gypsum.

Quartz sand of various grain sizes, plasticizers and other fillers are added to the base, which determine the purpose of the plaster paste. So, coarse sand allows you to level significant drops, while fine sand is used only for applying the last layer, covering fine roughness.

Let's take a look at the pros and cons of each type of material.

Cement compounds

They are distinguished by their special strength, resistance to mechanical stress. They are not afraid of moisture, can be used in rooms with special conditions: kitchens, etc. They do not collapse from temperature extremes, are durable, have a low cost and can be made by hand. Even significant drops even out well. If a layer with a thickness of more than 20 mm is applied, a reinforcing mesh must be used.

Lime, clay, gypsum, which impart plasticity and antiseptic properties, can be used as fillers. Among the disadvantages, a large mass of cement mortars should be noted. They give a significant load on the base, which must be taken into account. Low ductility leads to shrinkage and possible cracking. For the same reason, it is quite difficult to lay such a paste. Moreover, it does not lie on all grounds. The cement dries for a long time, completely hardens only after a month.

Gypsum mixes

The main advantage is plasticity and ease of application. The paste fits well on any base and sticks to it tightly. Gypsum is lightweight. Even a thick layer of such a mass will not weigh down the structure. She never shrinks, practically does not crack. Dries much faster than cement analog. The finishing compound is so good that subsequent filling is usually unnecessary.

The most significant disadvantage of the material is hygroscopicity. Gypsum easily absorbs water, soaks and breaks down. Therefore, it is forbidden to use gypsum varieties for outdoors or in rooms with high humidity. Moisture-resistant mixtures are available for interior styling, but they should also be used with caution. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material and the inability to manufacture it independently.

Further actions will differ depending on the material with which you have to work.

Concrete

Such a base is quite smooth, in order to improve its adhesion to the mortar, it is recommended to make notches. They are performed at a short distance from each other, deepening by 10-15 mm. Then they cover everything with a primer. Given the hardness, the job will be very time consuming. Therefore, you can do otherwise: prime it with a special primer. Select a deep penetration adhesive primer.

It contains sand, which, after drying, should remain on the base. Sometimes this technique does not work well, so it is recommended to test the primer before plastering. They treat a small area and wait until it is completely dry. Then hold it with your hand. If the roughness is well felt and the sand does not crumble, the entire surface is treated. Otherwise, notches are made.

Brick

Despite the fact that it is quite rough in itself, it is recommended to walk over the cleaned material with a grinder or wire brush. The seams between the bricks must be embroidered, so that the mixture can get into them, which will improve the adhesion of the plaster. Then dust is removed first with a brush and then with a damp cloth. Finally, two coats of primer are applied.

Wood

In order for the plaster mass to firmly anchor on a wooden base, it is necessary to equip the crate. It is made from slats, which are also called shingles. Elements are nailed diagonally. It is important to use only high-quality shingles, additionally treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, it will quickly rot and destroy the coating.

To facilitate the task, you can use a netting mesh instead. It is nailed onto slats that fit between the base and. They, like shingles, can serve as beacons during the alignment process. In this case, the elements are set strictly according to the level. All wooden parts are treated with an antiseptic and dry well, only then can the lathing be plastered.

Technology for applying solution on beacons

Used to compensate for significant differences. Metal guides are used as landmarks to show how the walls are. You should not save on their purchase. High-quality metal can subsequently be left inside the base, and it will not rust over time. It is better to remove parts of dubious quality, which is rather laborious.

The guides are installed along the entire length of the wall at a distance of about 150 cm from one another. Such a distance is chosen so that during the alignment process the rule moves along two adjacent profiles. They are set strictly in level and securely fixed to the base. The easiest way to do this is to use a gypsum solution, which sets quickly and holds the elements securely. Can be mounted on self-tapping screws, but this is more difficult.

Then the plaster mortar is prepared. This should be done in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, they start plastering:

1. Outline. We throw the mixture onto the base. This can be done manually, with a trowel, or with a special device if mechanized laying is intended. The thick paste is collected on the instrument and with some effort it “crumpled” onto the base. A layer with a thickness of about 5 mm is placed on concrete, and on wooden 8-9 mm. We put the rule on the beacons and pull the cover up from bottom to top, leveling it. Leave it to dry for at least 2 hours.
2. Priming. Prepare a dough mixture. We apply it with a wide spatula, performing movements in an arbitrary direction, but with some effort. Using the rule, we check the alignment quality. Remove all protruding areas with a grater soaked in water. Gently rub a small amount of the solution into the cavities. Leave to dry for at least 3 hours.
3. Covering. We prepare a solution of a creamy consistency. You can apply it with a spatula or scoop it into a ladle and pour a little liquid paste over the wall from top to bottom. We smooth it out with the rule, completely leveling the base. Let it dry for 8 hours, then slightly moisten and clean it with a construction float.

To make everything clear, we suggest watching the video of how a beginner to plaster the walls with his own hands.

Leveling without beacons

It is used for leveling surfaces with slight differences. Landmarks-beacons are not set, therefore, the quality of work is necessarily controlled using a level. All stages are performed in the same sequence, except that during the sketch, the leveling of the mixture is not done with a rule, but with a grater. The technology is shown in more detail and in full in the video that we propose to watch.

Plastering yourself is not so difficult, even if a novice master takes over. Skills are developed in the process. Before taking on the finishing, it is advisable to practice in a small area. So you can identify all the "weak" spots, work with them, get the necessary skills and a little experience.

When making major repairs to an apartment, office or house, you will surely face the need for plastering work. This process is very time consuming and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save the repair budget, you decided to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the solution, check out the complete guide to plastering walls with your own hands given in our article.

Plastering the walls takes place in several ways.

1. In a plane, using a rule (no beacons). This option is suitable if the walls are generally quite flat, without drops and strong deviations.
2. Aligning the walls with the lighthouses. The second method is suitable if the walls have significant deviations and irregularities.

Requirements for plaster

The main requirements for the quality of the plastering work carried out are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide to do the work not on your own, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high quality plaster.

1. With simple plaster, vertical deviations of no more than 3 mm per 1 m are permissible, but no more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room. Thus, the maximum deflection of the wall with ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth irregularities are acceptable, for every 4 sq. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm by 1 m.
2. SNIP for improved plaster requires stricter adherence to tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm for the entire height of the room. The presence of smooth irregularities is permissible - no more than 2 pcs. by 4 sq. m., less than 3 mm deep. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
3. The most stringent requirements in SNIP are indicated for high quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed the presence of 2 irregularities per 4 sq. m., less than 2 mm deep. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Aligning walls with beacons

It is in this way that significant irregularities in the wall can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is carried out perfectly even with a tolerance of 1 mm / sq.

Cost of work

The price for plastering works is from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you do not hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a punch and a 2 m bubble level. All other consumables will be listed below. For all these accessories, 6000 rubles will be enough, so you will save money after leveling one wall with an area of ​​15 sq. m.

If you want to align walls with an area of ​​90 sq. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! The whole tool will remain with you forever, and if you already have it, then it's a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, we will definitely be sure of their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

To better understand the wall leveling process, see the following for plaster:

• The last stage is plastering. To make it easier to do this, it is better to start grouting before the grout dries. To do this, you need to dilute the plaster in small portions in a more liquid consistency. Moisten a small area of ​​the wall about 1 square meter before grouting.
• Apply the solution to the bevel and spread it with a thin layer. Then flatten this square with a small 45 degree angle, firmly pressing.
• Continue smoothing the square until the solution ceases to accumulate on the bevel, while removing its excess. The surface should be flat and smooth.
• Repeat these steps, but smooth each new square overlapping the previous one. Try to work without interruption, distracted only by mixing the solution.

Note! If you are producing for tiling, the minimum plaster layer should be 10 mm. In addition, grouting is not required, since for the greatest adhesion of the tile to the wall, it will be necessary to create artificial irregularities.

The result of the work is shown in the photo:

Facade plastering

The plastering of the outer walls (facades) on the lighthouses is almost the same technology as inside the premises. The main thing here is to observe the temperature regime. The temperature outside should be above freezing.

For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability, you can attach a metal mesh to the facade and plaster over it. It is especially important to use mesh if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime bricks.

We have examined in detail how to properly plaster walls using lighthouses. Now you can easily do these works with your own hands. Do not be discouraged if you do not succeed in this business the first time, everything goes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.