If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will not take more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In option plastic windows its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems This insert is made of plastic; metal is used in metal-plastic ones.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window

Main element window block - frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

• frame – the main structural part;
• if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
• double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture formed when the temperature changes outside and inside the room passes through them to the outside;
• another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling the old window unit;
• installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter period, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that carries out installation work, then the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. At self-installation You can obtain a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in a brick house, cinder block house, gas block house or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, do not miss an important point - what type of opening you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.

Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide what components your design will be made of: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.

How to correctly measure windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.

The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and aligned horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

• Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
• then attach it to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
• after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and the external environment, the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To ensure proper installation on both windows and windows, follow these simple rules:

• we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
• the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
• you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
• it would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only polyurethane foam: It is imperative to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. I outlined a brief action plan for him, and decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We present to your attention instructions for installing plastic windows yourself.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
2. Preparing a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Attaching fasteners to window frame.
5. Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
6. Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
7. Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with mounting foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Installation of slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It’s as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second one at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in future attachment points anchor fasteners We punch holes into the wall for the entire fastening plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Helpful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to desired length(two - for the height of the opening, the third - for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls masking tape(preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted and a mosquito net is installed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will consider in detail the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
2. Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
6. Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
7. Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods of installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because this particular one is more labor-intensive but more safe method(for plastic double-glazed windows) we chose the installation for writing the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Helpful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, it is necessary to insert them into the seam between the glazing bead and window frame insert a small spatula and carefully tap the mallet ( wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, removed double-glazed windows must be stored in a clean place. hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window(s) against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of a soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it down accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, and maximum distance between bolts 700 mm, and the minimum is 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening using a concrete screw.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic PVC windows With our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• Shell brick – 60 mm
• blocks of porous natural stone – 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when constructing assembly seams, it is always necessary to adhere to the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and load-bearing wall less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the assembly seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

To level, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After that in drilled holes It is necessary to insert the anchor bolts, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After all the anchors have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if of course it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material- for example brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and sill, all external work on installing a PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and double-glazed window.

First, we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame; it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at this moment you inserted the beadings onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Helpful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for there to be a gap between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile; it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; it is in these grooves that the slopes will be placed. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

— with a four-chamber window profile
- and double-glazed windows
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3 centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus if we're talking about about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Installation is much easier using mounting plates.

Helpful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After that on outside PSUL tape is glued to all sides of the frame except the base - pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon.

This happens naturally when building from aerated concrete if you follow the technology and every next row level the masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side, except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom into which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation.

Helpful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Helpful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

The popularity of plastic window systems is due to great advantages compared to traditional wooden frames: better sealing and, therefore, heat capacity, no need to restore the sashes every year, ease of use. Even the cost of PVC windows, in view of the advantages, does not seem prohibitive - these are long-term investments. It is possible to save on purchases through self-installation, which does not require the purchase of special equipment. But a thorough understanding of the installation process is required - further, how to install plastic windows correctly with your own hands.

Installing a PVC window - step-by-step instructions

Technological openings in apartments and houses are different in size, shape and other characteristics. In order to ideally install a high-quality block of double-glazed windows in the future, a number of measures are required before installation, otherwise there is a risk of being disappointed in your own work. Ideally, the installation of windows is carried out by a company that produces structures. This is the only way to demand replacement or compensation in the event of a defect. If you want to save money, then it is important to consider the question of how to install a plastic window correctly. Let's look at it step by step.

Measurements of window openings

Window openings rarely differ perfectly correct form– deviations in width and height vary significantly. The final result and long-term operation will depend on how correctly the calculations are made.

How to take window measurements correctly:

• Opening width. Determined by the formula: the distance between the extreme points is 2 times the thickness of the assembly seam. The width must be measured at several points - below, above, in the middle. If the difference is significant, choose the smallest parameter.
• Opening height. Formula: distance between extreme points – 2 seam thicknesses – profile height. Similar to width, height is measured at several points.

Important: for an accurate measurement result, use a plumb line - a string with a weight, and a level - a water or laser level. They will accurately show the curvature of the opening.

• Length and width of low tide. The first can be “copied” from the old one + 0.5 cm on the bend or an allowance can be added to the measured width of the window opening. The width is calculated depending on the distance of the edge of the wall to the mounting plane (depending on the material of construction of the house or apartment, the parameters may vary) + allowance.
• Window sill width most difficult. It is calculated as follows: the distance from the edge of the inner part of the wall to the installation site + the projection beyond the wall by 1/3 of the heating radiator - the thickness of the plastic window frame.
• Last to be executed slope measurement, then when the installation of the double-glazed window is completed. The width is calculated after installing the plastic window, the length is equal to the height + an allowance of 0.5 cm.

Preparing the opening for installation

Proceed with immediate dismantling old frame- it is forbidden. Even when the exact delivery time for double-glazed windows is known, there is no certainty that for some reason the structures will not be delayed in transit. Only when the blocks are in the apartment do they begin to manipulate them. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows should take place in dry, windless weather, with air temperature not lower than –5⁰С. For cold weather, special mounting foam is required.

Stages of preparation for installation of PVC windows:

• The spaces near the windows are cleared of furniture so that work can proceed quickly, without delays or inconvenience in movements.
• Old frames are dismantled. Most likely, they have dried out, and removing the sash from the hinges will not be difficult. You will have to tinker with the window frame - in old houses they were fixed with long and thick nails. To work you will need a mount.
• It is important to free the opening from old insulation, sealing and sealing - the remnants can affect the installation of a new double-glazed window, interfering with an even and stable position.
• The window sill and the old one are removed cement strainer underneath it, acting as a substrate. Window areas are cleared of fine debris construction dust. The trash is taken out in advance and thus the dirty part of the job is completed.

Important: old plastic double glazed windows removed in a different way.

The structure must be disassembled, otherwise pulling it out will damage the walls. First, use a chisel to remove the glazing beads to remove the glass. Next, by turning the sash handle to the ventilation mode, the hook of the lower canopy is released and the sash is removed. In the same way, new double-glazed windows are disassembled before insertion. The work cannot be done alone - double-glazed windows are heavy and difficult to hold. In addition, the fit will be, more precisely, if we work together.

Methods for installing PVC windows

Traditional installation method PVC double glazing – fastening through the frame with self-tapping screws. These window options are somewhat cheaper, since additional components are purchased independently. The advantage of this method is reliability - you can drill additional holes and accurately adjust the structure.

The second method is considered strengthening the structure of a PVC window with “original” reinforcement– spacer mounting plates. They come with a double glazed window. Minus - wall leveling required before foaming, otherwise the consumption of the composition will increase. Experts do not consider this method reliable, since the structure is fixed only by the counterforce of the spacers and foam. In addition, there are few of them, up to 5 pieces - manufacturers do not take into account the fact that the opening may differ in curvature and other defects.

​

The choice of mounting foam for PVC windows is described in detail, as well as a comparison of products from different manufacturers.

Depending on the wall construction material - brick, aerated concrete or wood - PVC installation windows vary due to the different densities of the raw materials and their physical properties. So, for composite blocks and wood, waterproofing work is required, and for natural material There is also reinforcement in the form of a box.

Installation of a plastic window in a brick house

Before installing plastic windows with your own hands in a brick house, you need strengthen the support profile. It is attached to anchors or screws.

• Pre-drill holes in the frame and around the perimeter of the opening. According to the rules, the distance between the fastening points is 40 cm. The points are set aside from the impost in both directions.
• When the frame with holes is ready, it is inserted into the opening, having previously placed bars as a technological gap, and the drilling points are already marked on the walls. Next, the structure is removed and the holes are prepared. A sealing tape is glued to the frame itself around the perimeter to increase the heat capacity of the room. If the dimensions are such that the tape interferes with free installation, it is glued after installing the frame.
• All that remains is to reinstall the frame, adjusting it exactly and “attach” the fasteners without screwing them in all the way. If the position is satisfactory, then fixation begins along the perimeter. It is impossible to immediately tightly screw in any self-tapping screw or anchor bolt - this will cause distortion of the entire structure.
• Next, the double-glazed window is assembled - the sashes are hung, and the glazing beads are strengthened. Now the gaps can be filled with foam. Due to the different climates indoors and outdoors, it is recommended to lay the mounting mortar less densely on the street side and efficiently, in two layers, on the inside.
• When the foam polymerizes, install a window sill, placing the edge 2 cm under the clover. The ebb tides are installed on the same day in the same way as the window sill. For this purpose, the aluminum version is used - the most resistant to weather conditions. According to pre-made measurements, the structure is cut out. The area is prepared by sealing it with silicone sealant along the edge adjacent to the frame. Then they screw the ebb onto self-tapping screws or special fasteners, placing it under the window.

Important: you cannot skip blowing the foam under low tide. This will protect it from damage due to structural loads, water and melted snow.

• Installing plastic slopes is simple, but the measurements must be accurate - it is better if this work is carried out by a professional. Next, the plates are cut out and tried on the surfaces of the concrete slopes, marking the fixation points. Polyurethane foam is applied to them, and the part is pressed against the wall, placed behind the frame. After polymerization, all gaps are filled with foam. To ensure that the interior view of the window pleases the owners, the joints and corners of the window sill and slopes are decorated with plastic corners.

It is not recommended to use the window immediately. To ensure the structure remains strong for a long time, at least 20 hours must pass. How to install plastic windows yourself - the video below will help you.

The difference between installing PVC windows in a wooden and aerated concrete opening

Natural building material is characterized by shrinkage, which affects the change in the window opening and the design of double-glazed windows, up to extrusion of the frame and cracks. Therefore, installing plastic windows in wooden house(video below) is different from the traditional one. To prevent destruction from happening, it is recommended to assemble PVC for the window wooden box, which in turn is set as follows:

1. The height of the box is 10–12 cm below the opening. If you take into account 1–2 cm of shrinkage per year, then over time it will not have a significant effect on the frame.
2. A groove is hollowed out in the opening along the ends of the log or timber and sealed with felt. The bars are installed in the middle, without any fasteners - they must fit tightly and subsequently move together with the wooden frame.
3. The box is secured into the opening by screwing self-tapping screws through the boards only into the bars, without touching the ends.
4. Next, installing PVC windows with your own hands is carried out similarly to the described installation method in brick house. The only difference is that the sealing tape is glued to wooden frame, and not to the plastic one.

To install a window in a house made of aerated concrete, you should remember the high hydrophobicity of the porous building material, and in addition to sealing, sealing the entire opening is also required. And the installation of plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete is no different from installation in a brick or wooden opening.

Adjusting fittings

In order to operate installed window went smoothly, it should adjust fittings– clamping loops, plates. For example:

• Drafts are stopped by adjusting eccentrics or pressure plates. They are moved clockwise with a 2 mm key.
• The special position of the trunnions - to the right or to the left - will switch the windows to winter or summer modes - this is stated in the instructions.
• In order for the sealing tape to remain elastic, it must be lubricated with pure glycerin once a year.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version They are white, but can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which inert gas. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

Down on outside The frame (the one facing the street) has drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are made according to the bottleneck: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, you need to remove all construction garbage. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. It is also installed under the window sill at the bottom vapor barrier tape(also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

When purchasing a window, we plan that it will be able to serve well for many decades. However, this is only possible if the window is installed correctly. Almost all specialists have their own own methods and secrets, but there are also special fixed standards - GOST and SNiP. It is the installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST that can give the highest quality results.

Regulations

Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST will guarantee its long and trouble-free service. Today, all types of work related to this area are regulated by four main standards:

• GOST 30674-99. It contains general information on the issue and basic requirements for windows. There is practically no mention of the installation process itself in this GOST.
• GOST R52749-2007. This standard focuses on the process of installing windows using vapor-permeable, self-expanding sealing tape.
• GOST 30971-2012. This document contains the most detailed information on the issue. It also contains exact requirements for window sizes, device parameters and joint filling materials, methods of fastening structures and similar information. The requirements for regulatory documentation, some warranty obligations of the work performer and General requirements to perform the work. This standard was introduced at the beginning of 2014 and replaced the outdated GOST 30971-2002 for window installation.
• SNiP 02/23/2003. The standard sets the parameters for thermal protection of premises. Suffice it to mention that it requires the installation of a 3-chamber double-glazed window for most climatic zones of Russia and a 5-chamber double-glazed window for Siberia.

The standards take into account the climate zone in which the plastic window will be installed

All of the above regulations are valid, but not binding. The only exception was various requirements related to safety in one way or another.. Compliance with GOSTs only helps to achieve highest quality window installations.

Preparing for installation

The installation of plastic windows according to GOST is not much different in general terms from the usual installation of a PVC window. The main differences lie in the nuances and compliance with a number of requirements. The technology for installing plastic windows is as follows:

Measurements

Before starting work, a number of measurements should be taken. The dimensions of the window are set as follows: the width of the window is the width of the window opening, from which the double width of the installation gap (which will be on both sides) is subtracted, the height is the same. According to GOST, the minimum width of such a gap is 2 cm, and in calculations the figure most often used is 2.5-3 cm.

When installing a quarter window, measurements are taken from the outside

If we are talking about installing a window in an opening with an external quarter, then all measurements should be made from the outside. The width will be the distance between the quarters, increased by the size of the frame plant per quarter, which ranges from 2.5 to 4 cm. The height is determined in the same way.

Preparatory work

After the windows have been manufactured and delivered to the customer, work should not begin immediately. It is recommended to first prepare the room: clear the space near the window for comfortable work, remove unnecessary things and furniture, cover the walls and remaining objects with film or thick fabric. The doors are removed from the frame, and the cavity of the stand profile is filled with heat-insulating foam. It is recommended to do the latter one day before installation.

Particular attention should be paid to the opening itself - it must be cleaned of dirt and dust in advance. If there are noticeable irregularities, they are leveled with putty.

Fastening

GOST stipulates two main types of window fastening. The first is done in the mounting plane - self-tapping screws are attached directly through the frame. This option is used most often, but requires that the door leaves and double-glazed windows be removed from the frame in advance. The advantage of this method is the ease of installation in the opening.

Most often, self-tapping screws are used for fastening

The second option is based on the use of reinforcement mounted in the frame during production. The entire structure can be mounted. It should be noted that its weight will be quite large, so the process will require certain efforts and skills.

Installation work

Installation of plastic windows according to GOST provides for one important point: the frame is not installed on a bare brick or similar base. Instead, small wooden blocks impregnated with solutions are placed. They will help in aligning the window.

After this, either a separate frame or the entire structure is placed on them, which depends on the preferred type of fastening. For greater stability and reliability, the supports are left as part of the structure, and wedges are knocked out between the window and the wall on top for fixation. After this, the frame is attached from the sides in the same way. By controlling the process with a level, the frame is leveled, and adjustments are made by adding substrates.

The frame can be fastened, according to GOST, through pre-drilled fasteners. You should start from the bottom, gradually moving higher. To top it off, the structure is additionally checked for horizontalness and all screws and anchors are tightened.

Drain installation and window assembly

Most often, a special groove is provided on the outside of the window into which the drainage system is mounted. GOST states that during installation it must be foamed. If you need to create more robust construction, the drainage system is additionally secured with screws.

The drainage system is mounted in a special groove on the outside

Upon completion, another control check the entire structure: for strength, verticality and horizontality. After this, all that remains is to assemble the window. The assembly process takes place in the reverse order of disassembly: during the process, stops, handles and other accessories are returned to their places.

Filling gaps

GOSTs pay special attention to filling gaps. This procedure is almost always performed using polyurethane foam-based polyurethane foam. This material has been tested over years of work, but still has a number of disadvantages. First of all, its resistance to impact environment and ultraviolet radiation leaves much to be desired. That is why GOST standards require maximum insulation of all seams on all sides - this will avoid destruction of the insulation, which can result in loss of tightness, fogging of windows and the penetration of cold from the street into the house.

The insulation procedure is as follows: waterproofing tape for PVC windows is glued from the inside around the entire perimeter. The tape must also have vapor-tight properties. A strip of foil is glued at the bottom, which will subsequently end up under the window sill board. They pass along the outside in a similar way. PSUL adhesive strip (moisture-resistant and vapor-tight). This membrane film can allow steam to pass out.

Installation of windows in accordance with GOST requires mandatory waterproofing of gaps

Both mentioned materials are characterized not only by the fact that they are not difficult to find on the construction market. They also differ in accessibility, that is, the final price of the work will not increase that much, but the quality will increase significantly. In addition, the structure mounted in this way will last several years longer.

To fill the gap when installing PVC windows according to GOST, the strips are slightly bent and the surface is wetted from the inside. Apply the composition using a pistol. Foam is used as a filler, intended for use all year round. According to GOST, ordinary foam can also be used, but only at temperatures up to 30 degrees below zero. Considering the conditions in most regions, such seam insulation in Russia turns out to be of little use.

Window sill installation

On last stage work is installing a window sill. This process It is considered quite simple - you just need to adjust the size and, if necessary, trim the finished window sill so that it fits perfectly under the frame. According to GOST 30971, it is allowed for the window sill to extend onto the walls at a distance of 5 to 10 cm. Pegs are used to create a level, after which the cavity under the board is sealed with polyurethane foam or mortar. Experts recommend making a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the room during installation.

When installing a window sill, it is necessary to adjust it to the correct size

To decorate the window sill, plastic panels are used, which are attached to the initial profile using a clip. The casing, which wraps around the corner, is secured with self-tapping screws and covered with decorative film on top. All that remains is to put on the end caps and seal the seams with sealant.

Many construction companies they interpret GOST and SNiP standards as they want and can simply ignore them, and there is no need to say again what the consequences of incorrect installation are. There are two ways out: either carefully monitor the installation process and immediately notice violations, or install windows according to GOST on your own.