The fence is an element of the garden landscape. In addition to their direct “responsibilities” - protecting the site from unauthorized access and indicating the boundaries of private households, fences play an important role in the aesthetic arrangement of the territory. There is a fence different types, configuration and texture, but the most popular for decorative purposes was and remains the wooden version. In addition, you can make such a fence yourself, using all your imagination as a craftsman.

Making a wooden fence is quite simple compared to its metal counterpart. This option has many advantages with minimal disadvantages. To build a wooden fence, you can use different materials - boards from different types of trees: beech, pine, larch or oak. Coniferous wood is especially valued. Each master chooses the material at his own discretion, because the main thing is that the wooden fence is of good quality and lasts a long time.

How to make a fence correctly

Wood fences can be divided into 2 groups: hedges and palisades. Also, such fences vary in design (picket picket, wattle fence, bamboo fence, ranch, lattice and other fence design options).

The most popular and simple ones are picket fences, as well as those made by a continuous row of boards. Regardless of what kind of fence you plan to build, you definitely need to carry out preparatory work according to its structure:

• clear the area for the wooden fence (remove debris, pull out grass or weeds, uproot stumps and roots of old trees, if any);
• dismantle the old fence;
• draw up a design diagram of the future picket fence, where to mark the location of the gate, taking into account boundary boundaries and signs;
• choose and buy everything necessary materials for the construction of a fence (wood, nails or construction screws treated with an anti-corrosion agent, cement to stabilize the fence support, beams and logs, paint);
• prepare tools (hammer, hacksaw, shovel, crowbar, hole drill, tamper, cord and pegs for marking the area, wheelbarrow, mixing container cement mortar or concrete mixer).

Service life of a wooden fence

A wooden fence has a service life of about 8 years. However, if you properly care for it and repair it on time, then this period increases 3 times. A good wooden fence can last more than 30 years, although fences from historical wooden architecture are known to be over 50 years old.

The main factors for the durability of wooden fences are:

• quality of building material - wood (soft or hard wood, manufacturer);
• good quality and correct installation;
• operating conditions.

Manufacturers determine the quality of a material by its likely wear resistance. Also, the service life of the fence depends on how carefully it is handled.

The advantages of wooden fences are:

• environmentally friendly - absolutely clean natural material, which does not harm the environment, the sanded fence is pleasant to the touch, it does not absorb sunlight, which is important for close-growing plants;
• variability - in comparison with the factory version of a metal profile, which is usually installed in a vertical position, with wood you can work out various options - horizontally, vertically, diagonally, interlacing, and also use boards of various lengths, widths and thicknesses;
• ease of installation - when installing a wooden fence, no special skills, thorough concreting or a large number of people are required, since a wooden fence is not heavy and can be easily handled by one person;
• aesthetics - the natural beauty of wood leads in the selection of materials for the future fence; it looks great in any landscape design solution.

It is worth considering that wood is “afraid” of exposure to moisture, since over time it begins to rot, turn black, and become covered with mold spots. To delay these unpleasant moments, it is necessary to carefully care for the wooden fence and carry out antiseptic prophylaxis for it in a timely manner. You should also pay attention to the flammability of this building material and use special means to impregnate and protect it in order to avoid fire.

Wooden fence design

Modern, wooden fences have different design in any format that provides a visual impression. This type of fencing is a traditional option for Russian villages, holiday villages or country cottages.

The tree is beautifully decorated, covered with various paints or varnishes, it fits harmoniously into any landscape composition. The design of a wooden fence depends on the preferences, imagination of the owner, as well as the overall compositional background. Most original fences are obtained using the following types of fences:

• solid - made in the form of a palisade made of stakes or round logs, slabs, edged boards;
• option checkerboard layout or overlap - the boards are laid in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal position;
• “braiding” - boards are fixed between support pillars, either from the inside or the outside, by braiding them;
• – a combination of boards with round logs as support, a classic option;
• wicker fence - vines, tree branches, twigs are used;
• lattice fencing - slats are used;
• a fence in the style of a cowboy ranch - the exotic horizontal bars are attractive with brutality, it is recommended to combine them with a massive concrete or stone base.

Whatever fence design you choose, it is worth considering its role in the overall compositional picture and functionality.

When it comes to fencing the estate, the board is most often relegated to the background. This material is considered by many to be a temporary and uncreative option.

However, in last years The designs of plank fences have changed significantly. From primitive “ladders” they turned into masterpieces of wooden architecture. Excellent appearance, ease of installation and minimal cost attract the attention of many country home owners.

In this article we bring to your attention an overview of modern board fences and practical recommendations for their manufacture. We hope that after getting acquainted with the presented options, you will change your mind and build a beautiful and practical wooden fence at your dacha with your own hands.

Options for plank fences

In order to install a wooden fence, you don’t need to strain your imagination and test your design talents. Dozens of interesting varieties of fencing have already been built and captured in photographs.

The simplest option is a horizontal slab fence. Its cost is minimal, and its aesthetic qualities are high. Before installation, the slab must be refined by grinding, tinted by firing and varnished. Otherwise, its appearance will be associated with a pasture for livestock.

One more tip. Wooden fence from not edged boards look perfect with wooden buildings. In the photo below White color mansion walls and columns entrance group do not fit well with a wooden fence.

A fence made of slabs is simple, inexpensive and aesthetically pleasing

In the design under consideration, purlins made of boards are fixed between two wooden posts. The ends of the racks are protected from rain by an inclined bar. The most vulnerable point - the contact between wood and concrete - requires high-quality insulation. Here you need to use modern antiseptic impregnations or coating with hot bitumen.

A croaker, cleared of bark and installed with an overlap, looks very beautiful in a fence. It is nailed to wooden posts. The front joint is covered with an edged board. An easy-to-make plank canopy tops the structure.

Another interesting option is “artificial” croaker. In this case, the edges of the boards are cut so that they form a symmetrical pattern.

To create a color contrast, the wooden caps on the posts are treated with a dark stain.

The “decorative turn” method is equally suitable for both slabs and edged boards. In the latter case, we get an aesthetic shutter fence. When viewed directly, he appears deaf. However, due to the spaces between the slats, this design is not only well ventilated, but also partially transmits the sun's rays.

Climbing plants love such fences and quickly turn them into flowering trellises.

Fragment of a fence-blind design made from edged boards

In passing, we note that the best basis for attaching fence boards is metal posts. A compromise option is to embed steel clips from scraps in concrete profile pipe. Wooden posts are inserted into them and secured with self-tapping screws.

A little imagination and a nondescript croaker-obapole turns into a designer picket fence guarding the “kingdom of Berendey.”

The posts for such a fence can be cut from cheap round timber. The natural shape of this material will fit perfectly into the “country design” chosen for this fence.

The classic picket fence (planed board with a rounded edge) remains a relevant element of the fence structure. The only condition is not to paint it with dull green or brown paint. It’s better to treat the slats with an antiseptic and open them a couple of times good varnish. After such finishing, the wood will sparkle with golden hues and last 10 years longer.

If you prefer tinted wood, then use dark brown paint for this purpose. It will reliably protect the picket fence from dampness and give it a noble appearance.

A blank fence made from edged boards looks better when the vertical slats are installed not on one, but on both sides, overlapping. This installation scheme creates a rhythmic stepped structure. The ends of the boards are covered from above with a planed plank. A decorative framing belt is also installed at the bottom of the fence.

A blank fence will not look boring if arched grilles made of thin strips are introduced into its design.

Arched lattice inserts eliminate the monotony of a blank fence

When choosing a material for a fence, pay attention to the decking board. It is strong, expressive and durable. It is attached to metal posts installed in the concrete foundation.

The photo below shows an option for double-sided horizontal installation of a terrace board (American fence). To increase rigidity, vertical bars are installed in the middle part of the spans.

Fence made from decking boards - 50 year guarantee

This kind of fence cannot be called cheap, but it is very durable and beautiful. Terrace board It is made of colored wood-polymer composite and does not require painting.

In a fence structure, the board can be combined with timber. Below we see a fencing option in which the timber is installed on the outside and the board is nailed on the inside. Its joints are not visible, since they are covered by timber. The brown tinting of the wood in contrast with the white base gives the structure a solid and solid appearance.

From the facade this fence is made solid. There is no guard on the side at the bottom of the board. This decision was made to improve ventilation of the area.

Russia is far from America, but the romance of cowboy ranches has reached us. On a spacious area, remote from other buildings, a low country-style fence looks great. Its base is thick wooden pillars, to which three belts of boards are nailed horizontally on one side. In the upper part, a wooden plank is placed crosswise, closing the open “windows” of the sections.

Wicker fences from boards

If someone tells you that you can weave fences from boards, don’t hesitate. This is the most fashionable topic today. A wicker fence made from boards looks great, and there are many options for its installation.

The board for wicker fencing should not be very thick. Therefore, having bought an edged “thirty” in a warehouse, you can safely plan it on both sides to a thickness of 25 mm. Optimal width slats from 8 to 10 cm.

The simplest version of such a fence resembles a wall summer gazebo. Having made openwork panels from wooden slats, they are attached to the pillars. You can nail a dark board frame along the contour for contrast.

A board fence with a diamond pattern is elegant and light

The wooden fence post is antiseptic and concreted in the ground

And here is another, no less interesting plank wickerwork.

Here, a thin planed board 25 mm thick and 2.5 meters long is attached to the posts in a checkerboard pattern. The bend is given by the original method of installation: the ends of the boards are alternately attached to one and the other side of the wooden stand. In the middle part of the span there is a vertical rail that fixes the bend. The places where the boards are attached to the racks are covered with slats.

Vertical weaving from boards looks no worse. In this case, the answer to the question of which board is best to use for a fence is obvious: at a length of 2 meters, it is easiest to bend a plank, no more than 16 mm thick and 8 cm wide.

A wicker fence is good for everyone, but it can also be improved by combining it with a picket fence.

This design is quite difficult to install, but its picturesque appearance justifies all the effort.

An original version of the fence, combining weaving from boards with double-sided installation of a picket fence

Those wishing to build an exclusive fence from boards should contact to an experienced master. Only he will be able to assemble the structure depicted in this photograph.

Each board for such a fence is cut separately, based on the section template. At its ends and side edges, connecting tenons are cut, with which the boards, like puzzles, are connected to each other, attached to the pillars and to the lower belt.

The advice that we gave throughout the article should be supplemented with the parameters of the main elements of the board fencing:

• The cross-sectional size of the wooden posts is 10x10 cm.
• When used for racks steel profile its cross-section must be no less than 40x40 mm (wall 2 mm).
• Horizontal crossbars (purlins) must have a cross-section of at least 30x50 mm with a strut spacing of 2 meters.
• For ease of installation of wooden purlins, fastening plates “ears” with holes drilled in them for self-tapping screws must be welded to the steel posts.

At the stage of purchasing materials, the question arises of how to calculate how many boards are needed for the fence. The solution is simple. If the fence is solid, then its total length must be multiplied by the height and thickness of the purchased board.

For a lattice picket fence, the calculation is done differently. Taking into account the selected spacing of the slats, their number per 1 linear meter of fencing is determined. The resulting pieces are multiplied by the total length of the fence, and, if necessary, converted to cubic meters, multiplying the total area by the thickness of one plank.

Another important point - how to paint a fence made of boards? If you save on the quality of paint, the fence will have to be updated more often. Therefore, we recommend buying expensive paint for exterior use. Before applying it, treat the board with hot drying oil or antiseptic impregnation. The consumption of paint and impregnation will be minimal when applied to a planed board. Consider this nuance when choosing a material.

Considering large area board fencing, you need to paint it with a roller or spray gun. Omissions and errors made during work are corrected with a paint brush.

The hut is strong with constipation, and the yard is fenced. It’s good when the neighbor is close and the fence is low. Without a fence and lock, you cannot protect yourself from a thief. A fence doesn't even stand without posts. The higher the fences, the better the neighbors.

Just a few proverbs indicate that great attention has been paid to fences since ancient times. Time passes, technologies and building materials change, but the desire to fence off your site does not go away wooden material. What is the reason for such a love for wooden fences, how to make a beautiful wooden fence with your own hands - let's try to figure it out.

Peculiarities

IN middle lane In Russia, wood has always been considered the most popular building material. Its availability allowed even very poor people to build huts and baths, make furniture and dishes. Another thing is places where wood is a luxury. In this case, a wooden fence is a sign of the wealth of the home owner:

• Thus, the first feature of using wood when creating a fence can be called a tradition based on accessibility.
• The second feature is a demonstration of wealth or one’s own skills and abilities.
• An important factor in the use of such fences is practicality: for example, you can install the simplest fence to protect livestock, and if necessary, dismantle it and move it to a new pasture.
• Eco-friendliness is another feature. A bench placed under the fence will allow you to enjoy the aroma of essential oils emitted by the boards or slats. Wood will never be hot or cold like metal. It will perfectly absorb, unlike stone, most of the street sounds.
• If necessary, in most cases you can replace a fragment of the fence or repair the existing one.
• Restricting a large perimeter (for example, a private house with a vegetable garden) is a costly matter if you install a stone or metal fence. But a do-it-yourself braid can cost free.

Summarizing all of the above, we can name two main functions of a wooden fence:

• protection of territory and households;
• decorative design.

At the same time, he can protect:

• the house and the entire garden plot;
• only courtyard buildings with a pen for animals;
• front garden only;
• flowerbed or flower garden.

According to the degree of penetration of the gaze, a wooden fence can be:

• deaf;
• translucent;
• transparent.

Advantages and disadvantages

Indeed, such a fence has many advantages compared to other materials:

• comfortable temperature of wooden elements at any time of the year and day;
• opportunity self-made and installation without invited craftsmen and complex tools;
• huge space for decoration;
• the choice of color depends solely on the wishes of the owner, and not the manufacturer;
• the ability to apply unusual geometry and shape in general;
• goes well with stone and brick, metal and concrete, mesh and waste material.

It would seem that there are no shortcomings. But this is not so: a wooden fence requires constant maintenance. But if you do this regularly, it will delight you with its beauty for many years.

The service life will depend on climate zone and soil quality.

Kinds

Before starting construction of a fence for the required area, the owner must answer several questions:

• what function should the fence perform;
• what height will it have;
• will it be dull or transparent;
• how it will open;
• will they be used Additional materials(brick, stone, etc.);
• what the pillars will be made of (metal, logs, brick);
• what type of wood will be used for pillars and spans;
• Will you need specialist help?
• what material costs can you expect?

After analyzing all the answers, you can choose one of the types (or combine them):

• Herringbone. Also, such a fence is called a ladder or American. From a distance, the surface resembles blank siding. Upon closer inspection, you will notice that there are gaps between the boards located at an angle. This type of non-standard design will protect the area from roadside dust, but will allow air currents to pass through. Strong winds will not damage the fence.

• Classic version - This is a vertical or horizontal tightly fitted canvas. It can be based on a brick or stone foundation or only on wooden, metal, brick or stone pillars. This type of fencing is suitable for both a private house or cottage, and for a summer residence, that is, for those who want their own privacy leave it that way.

• Wattle– the most emotional warm look fence It was invented so long ago that now we can’t even remember exactly when. It is still considered common among Slavic peoples. But recently it is often used as a decorative element for low fences. At the same time, they make blind high fences - wickerwork, which look amazing in combination with other materials.

• Barrage ranch style It has long ceased to be only American. Style is another matter. In its usual design, such a fence also serves to create a barrier for animals. But there are also beautiful options for fencing adjacent areas.

You need to be prepared for the fact that this fence will not hide you from prying eyes. Yes, and it is suitable for a small area of ​​fencing, perhaps a front garden.

• Lattice was once considered an unusual fence. The slats crossed at an angle of 45 degrees make the structure very airy. Liana-like plants and grapes will climb beautifully along it. Over time, a transparent lattice can turn into an opaque living hedge. Such sections, interspersed with wickerwork or a solid fence, look even more unusual.

• Palisade It appeared, perhaps, at the same time as the fence, but it was used to protect the entire village. A durable and strong blind fence will reliably protect you from uninvited guests. Especially if the vertical stakes or logs have a pointed top edge. The durability of such a fence will be given by the foundation and brick (stone) pillars. But there is more easy option palisade – bamboo. It does not last as long, but it is much easier to install. Moreover, modern manufacturers offer ready-made roll fences.

• Fence- one of the most popular types. So much so that they are now producing a metal picket fence. This is a universal fence different heights and the width of the pickets. They are easy and quick to attach to wood grains. If the wooden panels are placed close to each other, then people passing by will be visible from the site, but from the street you can only see what is happening in the yard by stopping. To decorate such a fence, paint and varnish are used. It is made carved and multi-level, combined with other materials.

The picket fence looks completely unusual without support pillars and crossbars. Such a fence is also called a picket fence, but the point is not in the name, but in the aesthetic and functional appeal. Recently, horizontal picket fences have been gaining popularity as they are more economical and easier to install.

• Chess- a mixture of picket fence, picket fence and classic fence. Essentially, this is a picket fence, but nailed in two rows (from the street and the yard) in such a way that there are no gaps between the boards and the fence becomes blank. In this case, both sides are front. In order to protect personal space from view and encroachment, it is made of wider pickets.

Color solutions

Once upon a time, wooden fences were not painted at all. Even now, a village picket fence enclosing an ordinary vegetable garden “at the back” is unlikely to be exposed to paint and varnish materials. Nevertheless, they always try to improve the fence in front of the house and the front garden.

A variety of colors are chosen for this. Starting from varnishing, so as not to deprive the wood of the pattern given by nature. This method can give larch the color of cedar, and pine the color of walnut. For the same purpose, as well as to protect against insects, various stains and other impregnating substances are used. This option will bring the color of the fence closer to the color of the pillars, foundation, gate, house.

The wooden picket fence, lattice and even the picket fence are covered with multi-colored paints. The picket fence in the shape of colored pencils looks especially interesting. Such a playground fence will protect from road dust, street debris and strong winds.

If the house has been painted, then it is logical to cover the fence with paint, creating a unified ensemble of the entire estate. To do this, you can use templates of flowers, animals, floral ornaments. Sometimes two colors are used for this: for the background and the template. Moreover, template designs are most often painted white. In other cases, real pictures are painted on the facade of the house and the fence.

But still, the tree is often left with its appearance. After all, it is for naturalness, warmth and authenticity it is appreciated.

Decor

In addition to paints and varnishes, there are many other ways to decorate wooden fences. Before settling on any decor option, you can look at 3D samples on the Internet to see the fence “live” from different angles and in different materials:

• Some types of fencing are themselves decorative elements of the fence. For example, a lattice or wicker, checkerboard or log picket fence.
• Pickets, burned over a fire or with a burner, will not only get rid of insects and their larvae, but will also become a real design find in the design of a Russian estate, a robber haven or the kingdom of Berendey.
• The use of stone and brick will add solidity and durability to the entire structure. But this is also a wonderful decorative technique, since such fences look very beautiful.

• Metal is not only reliable protection for the fence itself, but also a beautiful decorative element. Forged elements will give an aesthetically attractive appearance and reliability to the wooden panel.
• An old fence can be updated in a non-standard way. If it has not been varnished for a long time, then this will be difficult to do: it will absorb an incredible amount of paint and varnish materials, but at the same time it will no longer have the proper appearance. You can hide this significant drawback by using invoices decorative elements: flower pots, climbing vertical greenery, birdhouses, old waste materials in the form of flat toys, pictures, etc. This, of course, will not save the fence itself, but dismantling it and installing a new fence will delay it for some time.
• A photo grid will also help transform an old fence. This modern decorative material will help hide the shortcomings of any fence. You just need to choose the right material and photo grid design.

• Log cuts are a very beautiful decorative option. With its help, you can turn a transparent fence into a blank one, and hide holes in the place of damaged pickets.
• A fence can zone a vacation spot in a country house. If you weave into it climbing plants or artificial sunflowers, then such a place is stylized as a Ukrainian welcoming hut.

Design style

Looking at photographs of various types of fencing, you can see that modern design gravitates towards minimalism and urban style. Whether this should be applied to a wooden fence is the owner’s decision. But, of course, it is worth paying attention to new trends:

• For example, a combination of wood and gabions with pergons. Metal cages 25-30 cm wide filled with stones and pebbles are pergons. Such cages can act as a support for a tree, a foundation, or a full-fledged section of a fence. Gabion is the same metal grid with a stone, but can be shaped like a parallelepiped bigger size than pergon. Or it can, in general, be of any other form. Figures - gabions can be sections of a fence or perform a decorative (and at the same time protective) function at a gate or wicket.

• A modern picket fence is not colored pencils made from slabs at all, but a monumental structure made of timber, made in an urban style. The combination of granite and marble with this type of wood creates a feeling of power and strength.
• Perhaps the mixture of wood, metal and bottle glass can be classified as eclecticism. This fence has a minimum of wood and a maximum of transparency. A vintage door reminds the owner of the time when such material was collected for his fence. The unusual way of combining wood and glass made this fence exclusive.

• If you want to have a solid wooden fence, then you can think about combining wood with stone or brick. A fence in a rustic style is natural, massive, and reliable. American style country is less rough, but no less reliable. Solid fence using brick pillars will serve its owners for a long time.
• The combination of metal and wood will make the fence durable. Such a modern fence can perform only a protective function or be a real product

Wood is such a comfortable material that it can withstand combination with any material. The main thing is to use your imagination and choose the style of the future fence.

How to do it yourself?

The quality of the fence also depends on the type of wood. Due to the resins released, pine is less exposed to climatic influences. And Siberian larch is a hard material that can withstand heavy loads. In addition, contact with water improves its qualities.

Oak, aspen, ash, alder, and mulberry are also used. It is not recommended to make fences from birch: it is short-lived and quickly cracks. There are also original tree species designed for a large pocket or a reliable bank card. To name just a few: abashi, akaju, bangkirai, kasai, kekatong, merbau, tiger tree.

The next point after choosing the style and type of wood will be the calculation of the material. It is clear that for this you need to accurately represent the project according to the drawing. But still, let’s try to calculate the number of pickets for a solid or translucent fence.

For this:

1. Measure the length of the future fence. For example, 50 m (5000 cm) when using 10 cm wide boards.
2. Calculate the amount of picket fence for a blind fence: 5000 cm/10 cm = 500 boards.
3. Calculation for a translucent fence: the width of the gap between the boards is added to the width of the picket fence. For example: 10 cm (picket) + 10 cm (gap) = 20 cm. Therefore, for such a fence you will need: 5000 cm/20 cm = 250 boards.

If in a store the price is indicated per cubic meter, then in this case the thickness of one board is multiplied by the length and width. The result is multiplied by the number of boards. This will be the number of cubic meters.

For example, the thickness of the picket fence is 2 cm, length – 200 cm, width – 10 cm. It is necessary to convert the dimensions into meters: 0.02x2x0.10 = 0.004. Multiply the result obtained by the number of boards that are needed for the fence: 0.004x500 = 2 cubic meters of picket fence must be purchased for such a fence.

The number of boards per cubic meter is counted in reverse order. At the same time, in all cases of calculation it is necessary to provide a reserve for an unforeseen event.

For crossbars and posts, the material must be selected especially carefully. If the fence is translucent, then the distance between the posts is 2 m. For a solid fence, the distance is 1.5 m. The digging depth depends on the soil, usually 1-1.5 m.

As a rule, the fence has 2 crossbars. Therefore, the length of the fence needs to be multiplied by 2 plus up to 5 m of reserve - this will be the need for crossbars for a picket fence.

All other options for installing wooden fencing are so individual that you need to calculate them yourself. Having decided on total number of all building materials, you need to take care of the tools. Depending on the type of fence, this set will also be different. You will most likely need the following tools:

• saw, hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• axe;
• shovel;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• level;
• rope, twine;
• earth drill;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill;

In addition, you will need building materials:

• picket fence, boards (it is better to impregnate them with a protective compound before installation);
• cross bars, crossbars;
• support pillars;
• pegs for marking;
• sand, gravel;
• cement;
• galvanized fasteners (nails, screws, hinges are also covered with drying oil before installation).

The entire sequence of work will consist of several stages:

• installation of support;
• fastening the crossbars (if the fence is vertical);
• frame covering.

Installation

There are 2 fundamentally different installation options: with and without installing a foundation. The first option is more labor-intensive, but more durable. The fence according to the second option is much faster and easier to do. Let's take a look at it:

• Preparing the area. Since the bottom edge of the boards will touch the ground, the area must be cleared of grass, stones and uneven surfaces.
• Using sharpened wooden pegs 60 cm long, the territory is marked out according to a pre-drawn plan. The distance between the pegs is the distance between future supports. The pegs are looped with a rope, which is pulled quite tightly. At this point, you need to check how smoothly the markings are made.
• The pegs are removed one by one, and in their place they drill holes for supports with a depth of 50 cm (for a flower bed or low picket fence) to 1.5 m (for a solid solid fence).
• The supports are dug into the ground. There are several installation methods: driving, backfilling, concreting. But before using any, you need to take care of the wooden support, namely: treat it with a special compound, wrap it in roofing felt, and cement it into a metal cylinder. All this will protect the pillar from rotting. Install the supports using a plumb line. Usually the bottom of the pit is sprinkled with sand and compacted tightly, then a pole is installed, covered with crushed stone and compacted again. The sequence is repeated, with each layer of sand moistened with water.

• A nail is driven into the top of each post, after which all the nails are tied together with rope. This is how the pillars are aligned.
• The veins are fastened with nails to the supports. Mounting height may vary. Most often it is done as follows: the height of the picket fence is divided into 3 parts. The lower crossbar is nailed at a height of 1/3, the top – at a height of 2/3. It is important to choose the right nails: too short ones will not hold the crossbar, too large diameter will lead to cracking of the wood.
• Fastening the picket fence in a blind or translucent way. Align the top edge. Giving it a decorative design using a saw and jigsaw.
• Protection of support pillars using caps (plastic, metal, wood, glass).
• Impregnation and painting. If the boards were installed without pre-treatment, they should be impregnated with drying oil or a protective compound. This needs to be done in 2 layers.

After which the fence is painted.

Paint should be chosen for exterior use. Or, to preserve the naturalness of the wood, prefer varnish.

Fastening methods

If conventional fastening methods do not suit you, then you can find more interesting solutions:

• Instead of picket fences, use a slab. This material will decorate the fence in rustic style antique A rounded log, on the contrary, looks very modern.
• You can bend the boards in such a way that you get an Austrian wicker - a double-sided fence with minimal gaps.
• You can use planken. This is a type of facade boards made of larch, in which all corners have a beveled or rounded shape. Due to this, the boards are not attached closely to each other, but with a micro-distance. This method of fastening planks prevents the boards from swelling from moisture and deforming.

• Creation wood siding. To do this, the boards are fastened horizontally, starting from the bottom, overlapping by about 25 mm.
• Creation of horizontal blinds. To do this, notches are made in the supports into which boards are inserted at a slight angle. This method will practically block the view, but will significantly save the amount of material. Moreover, this perfect option for places of strong winds, since the fence will not be subject to wind loads.
• The picket fence can be mounted diagonally. The difficulty with this method is the constant measurement of the angle at the beginning of installation. But such a fence will look great, especially if its upper edge is left in the form of a picket fence. At diagonal method the fence can also be solid or translucent.

• You can use the checkerboard method, which was already mentioned above. Such a fence can be vertical or horizontal. In this case, the length of the pickets can be the same or different (a more complex option, but also more interesting).

If thin untreated birch branches and trunks are passed very tightly through the crossbars, then such a fence will be cheap, but will protect no worse.

In addition, there are fastening methods where the boards are fastened between support posts or hiding the posts. The first case will require more time and accuracy.

If the pillars are brick or stone, then other methods are used. Here it is possible to install sectional spans between pillars. This work is done with an assistant. It is more labor intensive, but the fence will last a long time.

In order for a wooden fence to please you with its appearance for a long time, you need to:

• Before installation, soak the wood with an antiseptic;
• check the absence of anthills at the site of the future fence;
• install a protective canopy not only on the support posts, but also over the spans (if this does not fit into the chosen style, then you can try to protect the fence with a glass or polycarbonate canopy);
• get rid of grass along the fence in a timely manner, this will reduce the humidity level;
• after installation, cover the entire tree with a primer; this is done only in dry weather on dry wood;
• paint it once every 2-3 years.

It is good to protect a wooden fence from fungus and cracking with Swedish paint or yacht varnish.

Many people water the boards with hot drying oil before installation.

Because under the influence ultraviolet rays an untreated board loses moisture, then impregnation neutralizes this deficiency. Many people use special UV hardeners as impregnation, which are sold in construction stores. They treat the boards several times with a primer so that the impregnation penetrates as deeply as possible into the wood. After this, the wood is coated with paint or varnish.

Unlike drying oil and varnish, Swedish paint is a homemade composition of:

• 250 g of copper sulfate;
• 250 g of red lead;
• 250 g table salt;
• 230 ml drying oil or linseed oil;
• 570 g rye flour;
• 4.5 liters of water.

According to these proportions, you can prepare any amount of paint, but remember: the paint thickens very quickly, so you either need to prepare in small portions, or paint in several hands. Mixture consumption: 210-270 ml per square meter.

This recipe will give the wood golden color. To obtain a different color, red lead is replaced with ocher, hydrogen peroxide or another color component.

Prepare the paint this way:

• cook a paste of flour and 3 liters of water;
• to remove lumps, the substance is passed through a sieve;
• the strained glue is put back on the fire, adding salt and vitriol;
• you need to constantly stir the mixture, waiting until the vitriol is completely dissolved;
• Continuing stirring, gradually add drying oil, then water (you should get liquid composition homogeneous consistency).

Paint is applied in two layers. Don't forget about the metal fastening elements. They also need to be coated with special anti-rust solutions. Loose metal parts strengthened with the help of enclosed dowels.

But during operation, the fence may require not only preventive painting, but also repairs. If preventative work against rye does not help, then the metal parts are simply replaced. If we're talking about about wooden elements, it is necessary to determine the degree of wear.

If the support post is loose but not rotted, then it is carefully dug up to about 20 cm in depth and the same width. Aligning the support vertically, the hole is filled with broken bricks and filled with cement. Props are placed for several days. The reason for this play of the support is the insufficient depth of the pit during installation and violation of the installation technology.

If the post has rotted in its lower part, then the entire post or its lower part can be replaced. It might be easier to replace the entire pole. But if this is not possible, proceed as follows: dig up the pillar from the side and saw off the rotten part. A concrete support is prepared in advance to replace the rotted part. Holes for bolts are drilled in its upper part.

The concrete pile is installed in the hole, and galvanized bolts are inserted into the holes. The entire structure is coated with an antiseptic. A wooden post is placed on the bolts, aligned with the slope and secured with spacers. Crushed stone or broken brick is poured into the hole, and it is all compacted tightly. After a few days, the spacers are removed.

If the pickets have rotted or become unusable, they need to be replaced. After dismantling, the repair site is treated with an antiseptic and dried, only after that a new board is installed.

The climate of any region of the world will affect wooden fences: somewhere there is too much precipitation, causing the wood to rot; the hot sun dries it out and leads to cracking. Dust sandstorms strip paint.

All this warns owners of wooden fences: only timely maintenance will extend its service life.

Beautiful examples

Above there were many examples of how using various types of wooden fences you can decorate your summer cottage or Vacation home, front garden or flower bed. But there are so many beautiful examples that It’s worth paying attention to at least a few more:

• You don't need a lot of money to put up such a wonderful fence. Just a jigsaw, sandpaper, a wood carving knife and the desire of the master to make a real masterpiece out of a simple fence. And even if the fence seems worn out by time, only a true craftsman knows that a fairy tale lives behind it.

• Croaker is a substandard board, which is why it costs very little. The more valuable such a fence is. After sanding and processing, an ordinary croaker turned not only into a place of rest, but also into a kind of entrance to another interesting and unusual world.

• Such a fence will require painstaking work. A board that, at first glance, seems unedged, is unlikely to be. Careful work with a jigsaw and grinding machine, coupled with the work of a mason, makes this fence an exclusive product worthy of the highest praise.

• A wooden fence combined with a stone and metal gabion makes you stop not only to look at this unusual sight, but also to think about deep philosophical topics. In our life, everything juxtaposes in a strange way: warm wood with cold metal, soft board with hard stone.

• This fence, like the house on the site, is protected for a long time from all misfortunes: strong stone supports, a stone foundation, Swedish checkerboard paint. A very caring owner took care not only of his property, but also of his own time. After all, such a fence will not require repairs for a long time.

• But if the previous option is very expensive, then this one is very budget-friendly. Such a fence cannot be fully called wooden, but rather a combined one. And it is subject to every lazy owner. With a large number of inserted branches, you can achieve good protection for your site.

• The article mentioned many different options for wattle fence, but this one is special. It looks so organic and soft on the site. At the same time, it perfectly zones the entire territory. Here you can drink tea with company or hide from everyone and sit in silence. The unusual shape of the spiral makes the desire to get to the center even greater.

• To make such a horizontal non-standard checkerboard, you need to think completely outside the box. Different widths and lengths of boards, gaps where, it would seem, there shouldn’t be any. Beautiful, unexpected, interesting.

• Even if you look very closely, it is still difficult for a simple viewer to understand how this fence is made. It is convex, as if woven. The cross beam seems to pass the boards through itself. Moreover, the appearance of burnt wood makes the fence completely unusual.

• And this combined fence again breaks stereotypes: a rounded, familiar top and a completely unusual form of joining two materials. It's definitely beautiful. Also such interesting colors.

• The value of this fence is that it decorates not an elite cottage community on Rublyovka, but an ordinary rural street. And if the owners of this non-standard house and Austrian wickerwork created such beauty in an ordinary village, it means that there are still many men on Russian soil.

Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the design ensemble of the site. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle. But the construction of a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it’s best to start with a fascinating acquaintance with the variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, making a choice will not be difficult at all.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood - inexpensive and convenient to use technical processing and decoration, a material that is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - European picket fences, metal, corrugated sheets, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fencing will always be high.

The reason for this is the list of advantages of wood, which includes:

• environmental friendliness;
• unique decorative qualities;
• wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
• ease of processing;
• ease of installation;
• easy replacement of structural elements of the fence during operation;
• low cost.

Wood is an environmentally friendly natural material that combines perfectly with other building materials and can harmoniously fit into any solution for the design of a fenced area. To build a wooden fence, one or maximum two pairs of working hands are enough and no special knowledge, skills or tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as construction and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with its advantages, wood has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

1. Fire hazard.
2. Low resistance to climatic factors.
3. Attractive to pests.
4. Susceptibility to rotting.
5. Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, wood used in construction must be treated with a fire retardant, antiseptic and pest repellent. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden temperature changes. All this entails additional expenses money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice to increase service life wooden fencing apply various methods. So, in order to prevent the support posts (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence from getting wet and rotting, their upper ends are closed with plugs made of plastic or other suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse joists and the points of their attachment to the supports.

Diversity, types

Thus, the construction of a fence can be carried out for the purpose of:

• marking the boundaries of the territory;
• ensuring privacy (protecting what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
• protection against unauthorized entry;
• reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
• fencing potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
• decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

1. Deaf.
2. Lattice (with gaps).
3. Combined.

When choosing the type of fencing structure, you should not forget about its design. The fence must fit into the existing landscape and harmoniously combine with the design of objects located in the fenced area.

The most widely used options are: design wooden fencing:

• "classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports, installed by butting or on concrete, with crossbars made of wooden beam and cladding made from standard edged boards.

• picket fence (vertical or horizontal);

The cladding for such a fence is a picket fence - a thin strip with a straight or beveled upper end. The sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.

• lattice;

The cladding of a lattice fence consists of equally wide slats (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 degrees. The slats are mounted with a gap or closely at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence fabric.

• “chess” (deaf or clear);

A complicated version of a picket fence with a blind or ventilated cladding arrangement in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the fence. Elements of checkerboard cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.

• ladder (herringbone);

The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlap at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). Turn fence boards ensured using calibrated gaskets.

• network;

The fabric of a wicker fence consists of thin strips or vine branches entwining the vertical or horizontal edges of the supporting frame. Braided fabric is quite difficult to manufacture, but provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

• palisade;

The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with ends pointed upward. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break; moreover, they provide complete privacy of the area inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

• log paving;

A log fence is assembled from tightly fitting horizontal logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving represents a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the fence perimeter from prying eyes and ears.

• "ranch";

An open-type fence, the web of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark the boundaries of private property or to keep out large animals, although they can also serve decorative purposes.

• "cross".

The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or strip concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal cladding elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the cross-style fence has a horizontal sheathing that is attached to vertical crossbars supported by support posts and a concrete foundation.

This is not the entire classification. Thus, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:

• solid palisade;
• palisade with gaps;
• cat or dog ears;
• private;
• peak;
• concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations of different types of structures are often used, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases, additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decorating a cottage or private home

Wooden fence along the road A solid wooden fence with the functions of protecting and ensuring privacy of the territory Wooden fence with combined cladding Fence made of decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical picket fence Solid fence made of horizontal picket fence Horizontal log fence in a combined style Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex wooden fence Cross-style fence with brick support posts Ranch-style fence for enclosing a summer cottage Wooden fence with horizontal log sheathing Wooden fence in the “solid picket fence” style Wooden fence with wicker structure

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If you don’t have a plan at hand, you will have to carry out the measurements yourself.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The obtained data should be transferred to a pre-drawn scale diagram of the site. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the area for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. The first step is to set the corner marks by driving pegs into the ground.

The next step is to determine the location of the gate and entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. Standard width the gate size is 1–1.5 m, and the gate size is accepted in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the owner of the site.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on a foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the support columns or foundation.

Upon completion of the design surveys, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate mistakes made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after developing the basic plan is the selection and calculation of materials for building the fence. To do this you need:

• decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
• accept the method of mounting supports;
• calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and number of transverse logs);
• determine the material from which the casing will be made;
• calculate the volume of the sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
• determine the method of installing transverse joists and sheathing, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for support pillars is simple: the most preferable option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60*60 mm (for corner supports) and 50*50 (for intermediate posts). Proper preparation for operation and proper installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and groundwater lies at a great depth (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, it is advisable to use wooden beams with a cross-section of at least 40*40 mm as transverse logs for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a leaf height of 1.8 m.

Calculation

When designing, you should take into account a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences. Strict compliance with these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

1. The section size should not exceed 2.5 m to avoid sagging of the transverse joists under the weight of the skin.
2. The support pillars are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for installing supports, you need to take into account the groundwater level, as well as the soil composition, which affects the behavior of the soil when the seasons change.
3. To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
4. The bottom line of the fence should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
5. Support posts must be at least 10 cm higher than the fence.

Good to know: If there are uneven areas or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of fence parameters is carried out in several stages:

• Suppose the site has the shape of a trapezoid with bases measuring 29 and 40 m and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:

P = 29+40+20+25 = 114 m;

• If the gate and gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and entrance:

l 1 = 29 - (1.5+2.5) = 25 m;

• In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L = 25+40+20+25 = 110 m;

• Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections = L/l sections = 110/2.5 = 44;

• Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of support pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;

Please note: The corner supports and posts on the sides of gates and wickets must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

• Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports = 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 = 2.85 m;

• The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse fence joists. If we take the height of the latter to be 1.8 m, each section will need 2 crossbars. Thus, the total number of lags will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations performed, we obtain exact amount structural elements of the fence:

• 39 intermediate supports;
• 6 corner supports;
• 88 cross joists.

At this point, the main calculations within the fencing project can be considered completed. To start the practical implementation of the project, all that remains is to select the cladding material and calculate its volume.

Which boards to choose for cladding?

The choice of fence cladding depends on the design style of the fence, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, for external fences with predominantly protective function Coniferous species are selected - pine, spruce or cedar.

If priority when designing the appearance of the fence was given to its decorative qualities, wood would be much better suited for cladding hardwood- oak, beech, ash and birch. The strength of such a fence will not be high, but if properly processed it will look very impressive.

Cedar is considered expensive and rare coniferous species. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are rare - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees, although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, do not withstand moisture well, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most accessible and cheap wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is excellent protection against dampness, mold and rot, and is optimal for use under open air humidity (15–20% with proper drying). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotiness of the material, spruce species are undoubtedly the leaders: in pine the knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce they begin almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species exhibit an increased tendency to cracking. Spruce and pine wood owes this to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material needs to be purchased with some reserve, since some of it will inevitably go to waste.

Calculation of fence cladding

The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the fabric of the fence being built. This value is calculated as follows:

1. First you need to take the amount of clearance between the pickets. Let's assume it will be 4 cm.
2. We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
3. The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, it could take 16 units per section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
4. Let's check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13*15 = 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account the fact that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be equal to: (13+1)*4 = 52 cm. Together it will be: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
5. We calculate the number of boards required to cover the entire fence (without gates and wickets): 13*44 = 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden picket fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for cladding the fence. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the volume of the cladding will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 = 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

Construction tool

Preparing for the construction of a wooden fence includes collecting tools that will significantly simplify and significantly speed up the work. The following should be included in the list:

• jigsaw;
• circular saw with metal discs;
• welding machine;
• wood hacksaw;
• electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
• shovel and crowbar;
• garden earth drill;
• hammer and pliers;
• set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
• electric plane;
• sandpaper for wood;
• brushes for treating wood with protective composition and paint;
• building level and plumb line;
• measuring cord (twine);
• construction tape.

Please note: During the construction of the fence you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, you can use galvanized nails, but a much more durable option would be self-tapping screws or bolted connections. It is noteworthy that for the latter you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse joists in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of support pillars.
2. Installation of crossbars.
3. Frame covering.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of fence support posts using the backfill method. Let's look at how this is done using the example of one of the supports:

1. By using garden borer, crowbar and shovel, we make a hole in one of the corners of the site with a depth of 1–1.2 m and a diameter of 40–50 cm.
2. At the bottom of the hole we place and thoroughly compact a sand cushion 10–15 cm thick.
3. Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a square profile pipe, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both arms of the fence.
4. We pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand to a height of 20–25 cm at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly.
5. We check the verticality of the support and the parallelism of its edges to the fence sleeves.
6. We fill in the next portion of the cushion from sand and crushed stone, compact it and check the position of the support again. And so on until the very top of the pit.

Good to know: During the backfilling process, the sand-stone cushion will fit more tightly if it is moistened with plenty of water, not forgetting to add sand.

Installation of cross beams

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made from metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, you can simply buy ready-made brackets in a store.

The lag is installed as follows:

Please note: The distance between the logs can be reduced if necessary, but this will negatively affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the canvas. The support should be at least 5–10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be no less than 10–15 cm from the soil line.

Frame covering

Before we begin installing fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the picket fence is mounted on the logs before installing the latter on the supports:

1. The first thing you need to do is set the crossbars at the required distance from each other, maintaining a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared stands from scrap materials.
2. It doesn’t hurt to make templates in advance that are convenient for laying out gaps between the boards.
3. It also doesn’t hurt to place the lower (or upper) edge of the canvas under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, positioned at the required distance from the one being mounted.
4. Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount fence boards on cross beams. In this case, you need to ensure that there is no deflection or any other stress in the structure of the canvas.
5. We lift the finished fence sheet and fix it with bolts to the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10–15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for successful landing bolted structures.
6. If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were aligned accurately, their ends will easily fit onto the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and it also creates tension in the structure of the canvas due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the sheathing.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

A wooden fence is used outdoors all year round. This means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature changes, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: Metal elements of the fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted connections, must be primed and painted before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the support pillars installed on the ground require additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first for isolation internal space of the profile pipe, plugs must be welded to its lower and upper ends.

In addition to humidity, harmful microorganisms and pests, ultraviolet radiation leads to a decrease in the life of a wooden fence. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their visual appeal, but also bearing capacity. To prevent premature wear of the structure, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners - when applying impregnation.

The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on the primer deep penetration. Primed and treated with impregnation wooden surfaces covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch to protect the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of the wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence.

The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout its entire service life. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of design method for a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones among which are the aesthetic preferences of the owner of the site and his financial opportunities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even strengthened by forging, give it an original color, experimenting with impregnations and finishing coat, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.

Video: Building a wooden fence yourself

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to thoughtfully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be used. With careful attention to basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the base material self-construction fence will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.

A wooden fence is a long-known option for fencing a site, but it is still used today. The popularity does not fade due to the good price-quality ratio, as well as a large number various designs. In addition, building a wooden fence with your own hands is much easier compared to stone and metal fencing.

Review of existing types of structures

Each of the options has individual characteristics, due to which in some conditions installation is preferable, and in other cases, on the contrary, it is better to refrain from installation.

Taking this into account, a wooden fence is selected:

1. A solid canvas is a variant of a blind fence, since the boards are located closely, so that there is no view from the street at all. If you make the structure of sufficient height, you can eliminate the risk of entry into the territory. This type of fencing is universal because it is used with the same degree of efficiency both in the countryside, in a country village, and within the city.
2. The picket fence is one of the popular designs. It is an open fence. In this case, the fence boards are located in two planes: horizontal and vertical. But it is the second option that is more common. Logs, which are usually located perpendicular to the base material (use 2-3 pieces), help to strengthen the structure. The distance between the boards (pickets) can vary and is determined by the owner individually. But the further away the wooden elements of the fence are from each other, the wider the view of the area from the street opens. This has its advantages: the area is not shaded, natural air circulation is maintained.
3. Wooden fence in the form of a lattice. This option stands out from a number of designs due to its aesthetic appeal. The basis of the design is the frame. A sheathing made of small planks is attached to it. They are located perpendicular to each other. There are two options for attaching the sheathing: straight or at an angle of 45 degrees.
4. Ranch – characterized by simplicity of design. The main feature is that such a wooden fence opens up a wide viewing angle from the street, since the boards are located at a significant distance from each other. Among other things, such structures are usually low.
5. Blinds are an attractive fencing option. Reminiscent of plastic window curtains, only the fence is not equipped movable mechanism. The owner can decide for himself at what distance the lamellas will be located so that the design ultimately satisfies all requirements.
6. Chess is a more complex version of the picket fence. Its feature is the double-row installation of boards.
7. Palisade A special type of fence has decorative qualities, but cannot be installed everywhere. In addition, wooden fences in this version require slightly larger investments than a picket fence or lattice, since the use of timber is required.

The choice of the most suitable option should be made based on the characteristics of the fenced object (style, design of the local landscape). In addition to this, wishes for the degree of transparency of the fence are taken into account, as well as the level of shading of the area, which is especially important if you plan to plant a vegetable garden.

Determining the right wood species

Any wooden fence is built with the expectation that the result will be a reliable structure with a long period of operation. Considering that wood, most other materials, is susceptible to moisture, you need to select the species as carefully as possible.

An important selection criterion is a high degree of density. The best way Alder, oak, mulberry, ash, and larch are suitable for fencing construction.

Birch should not be considered. Pine is also not the most suitable option. This is not explained by the quality of the wood, but by the difficulty of processing. Before installation, such material is thoroughly impregnated with special compounds.

Preparatory stage

First of all, a sketch of the future fence is created, on the basis of which the amount of material is calculated. If we consider simple fence made of wood - a picket fence; for its construction you will need timber for posts (50x100 mm) or a metal analogue (60x60 mm or a diameter of more than 60 mm).

Wooden fence diagram

It is also possible to make stone support posts. The number of pillars is determined by the size of the area and the length of the section. To calculate how many fence boards are needed, you should determine their width (from 80 to 150 mm), as well as the distance between them.

You may also need cement, sand, and crushed stone. Finishing work are carried out using paints and varnishes (it is necessary to take into account the consumption per 1 sq. m). A cord and stakes are used to mark the area.

Basic tools for work:

• hammer;
• Circular Saw;
• axe;
• level;
• shovel;
• sandpaper;
• nail puller;
• brushes;
• roulette;
• hacksaw for wood.

You should prepare the material and all the tools at once so as not to waste time searching during installation. In addition, the use of some materials ( concrete mortar, varnish or paint) require quick execution of all actions.

Carrying out work in stages

Important feature: if you plan to build a fence, the selected tree must be well dried ( permissible level humidity not more than 20%).

Installation of poles for different soils

The installation sequence will be as follows:

• The area is cleaned, the soil is leveled as necessary, then the area is marked: stakes are placed in the corners and at the points where supports are installed for attaching wickets and gates;
• by using hand drill holes are made in the ground (recommended depth 1-1.5 m), diameter 20 cm;
• before installing wooden poles, the lower part, which will be in contact with the ground, is treated with bitumen mastic;
• a sand and gravel cushion is laid at the bottom of the pits (10 cm each layer), the pillars can be covered with soil or completely concreted;
• first of all, corner posts are installed, the work is carried out using a building level, then it is necessary to pull the cord between them, it will act as a guide for the remaining pillars, and the width of one section should not exceed 2.5 m;
• Next, the cross members are attached; this can be done using a special metal cross;
• All that remains is to secure the fences, their lowest point should always be located at least 5 cm above the ground level, and in the work, again, the cord is used as a guide when installing the wooden elements of the fence, so the outermost fences in the section are installed first.

When building a wooden fence with your own hands, we must not forget that before installation, each element, crossbar and support must be planed. And the choice of foundation type is made based on the soil structure in the area and the weight of the fence.

Processing and painting the fence

First of all, the structure is coated with a protective compound. A popular option is drying oil. The final finishing of the fence can be done using varnish or paint. If you want to preserve the structure natural material, you should apply a clear varnish. But in any case, the combination of protective composition and final coating will ensure longer-term operation.

The first layer is applied with drying oil, then after it has completely dried, the fence is covered with paint and varnish material. Moreover, it is recommended to do this twice. It should be taken into account that the protective composition can lighten the wood.

Care and operation

In order for the hedge to remain resistant to destruction due to exposure to moisture for many years, it is necessary to keep it under control. general state designs. In particular, we are talking about the quality of finishing, the presence of deformations of the boards, and rust (if metal elements were used in the design).

Restoration of the external coating should be carried out once every few years, but the break in such work should not exceed 3 years.

Another point is determining the type of foundation. The key factors here are the weight of the structure and the structure of the soil. The most common option is columnar base followed by concreting the racks. Moreover, the recommended depth of pillars lies within 1-1.5 m.