MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND SCIENCE OF THE RF

Federal state AUTONOMOUS educational

institution higher education

"Sevastopol State University »

Institute of Shipbuilding and Maritime Transport

D.V. Burkov, E.S. Kolesnik

Fight against ship sinking

Educational and Methodological Council of the Institute

as a teaching aid

for full-time and part-time students

specialties:

05.26.06 – Operation of ships power plants And

05/26/07 – Operation of ship electrical equipment and automation equipment

full-time and part-time forms of education

Sevastopol

UDC 656.612.088

BBK 39.46

Reviewers: S.V. Taranenko, Ph.D., Associate Professor, department. SEA

A.R. Ablaev, Ph.D., Associate Professor, department. EMSS

E.S. Solodova, Ph.D., Associate Professor, Department of Russian Geology and Humanities

D.V. Burkov, E.S. Kolesnik

Fight against ship sinking: educational and methodological manual for practical training in the discipline “Life Safety”, Part 1 Life Safety (marine), Module 2. Survival in extreme conditions on the ship. – Sevastopol: Federal State Educational Institution of Higher Education “SevGU”, 2015. – 16 p.

Methods for repairing cracks and holes in a ship's hull and eliminating damage to pipelines are considered. Procedures for placing the patch and cement box are described. A methodology for drawing up an operational plan for combating water, restoring stability and straightening a damaged vessel is presented.

The manual is intended for full-time and part-time students of Sevastopol state university, Institute of Shipbuilding and Maritime Transport, specialties: 05.26.06 – Operation of ship power plants and 05.26.07 – Operation of ship electrical equipment and automation equipment.

The educational manual provides the study of the following areas of competence in accordance with the STCW Convention:

RC 30 – Development of an action plan for emergency situations and schemes to combat the survivability of the vessel, as well as actions in emergency situations:

RK 30.1 – Ship design, including means of combating survivability.

© Burkov D.V., Kolesnik E.S., 2015

© Publication of the Federal State Educational Institution of Higher Education "SevGU", 2015

1. Plugging small holes and cracks ……………...…….
2. Repair of damage to piping……….………...
3. Plasters (Mats)…….…………………………... ………………………………………………………...
4. Plaster placement (Matting)…………... …………………………………………….
5. Cement box fixing……………………………………..
6. Methodology for drawing up an operational plan to combat water, restore stability and righting of a disabled vessel (Operational plan technique to combat water, restore stability and righting of a disabled vessel)…………………………………………… …….
7. Report content of the work implementation
8. Control questions(Control questions)………………………………………………………………..
Reference list………………………………………………………………

Goal of the work: 1. Study of methods for sealing small holes and cracks.

2. Familiarization with the technique of applying the patch.

Repairing small holes and cracks

Sealing with emergency wedges and plugs(Fig. 1, a): wedge 7 (or conical plug 2), wrapped in tow (tow), oiled or soaked in red lead, is hammered into the crack (or hole from a fallen rivet) with a sledgehammer. Sealing should begin from the widest part of the crack; as it narrows, the thickness of the wedges decreases. The gaps between the wedges and very narrow areas of the crack are caulked with strands of oiled or red lead-impregnated tow. With low water pressure, the work can be done by one person, and with high pressure - at least two people.

Narrow, tearing cracks can be repaired mastic, heated to a dough-like state and composed of seven parts coal tar and one part sulfur with the addition of slaked lime.

The hole from the fallen rivet is sealed cork(described above) or swivel head bolt(Fig. 1, b): bolt 3 is inserted into the hole in the casing 7, while head 6 rotates spontaneously, with inside put wooden spacer 5 and washer 4.

The objective of the work: 1. Study the ways of plugging small holes and cracks.

Plasters used as emergency equipment are soft, wooden, metal and pneumatic.

Soft patches are applied to temporarily seal the hole in order to drain the flooded compartment and then reliably restore the waterproofness of the hull. The most durable soft plaster is the chainmail plaster. It is elastic, fits well to the figured surface of the ship's hull and at the same time has a certain rigidity, which is created by chain mail in the form of intertwined rings made of flexible galvanized steel cable with a diameter of 9 mm.

The lightweight plaster, measuring 3x3 m, consists of two layers of canvas with a felt pad between them. To give rigidity to the plaster, 25 mm steel pipes or steel rope with a diameter of 20 mm.

The stuffed plaster (2x2 m) is made of two-layer canvas and a stuffed mat stitched on the inside with a dense, thick pile on the outside.

The mattress patch can be made by the crew on board. To do this, a canvas bag of the required size is stuffed with resinous tow to a thickness of about 200 mm. From the outside, narrow boards 50–75 mm thick (with gaps between them) are attached to the mattress thus obtained, and a steel cable is nailed to them with construction staples for winding.

A wooden rigid plaster is usually made on site on the ship after a hole has been received in the hull. It is most appropriate to use it to close holes located near or above the waterline, as well as in cases where the hole can be exposed by heeling or trimming the vessel.

Metal patches used to seal small holes are shown in Fig. 6

Pneumatic plasters (tubular, spherical, soft box-shaped, semi-rigid and rigid) are designed for sealing small holes from the outside at a depth of up to 10 m.

3.1. Installation of a metal patch with a clamping bolt pb1.

Holes with a diameter of 35 – 100 mm with a height of torn edges up to 15 mm can be repaired metal patch with a clamping bolt PB-1. The patch can be installed by one person and does not require additional fastening after installation. On the ship, the PB-1 patch (Fig. 5) is stored in constant readiness for use, assembled, the nut with handles should be in the upper threaded part of the clamping bolt.

To install a patch on a hole you need:

install the rotary bracket, overcoming the force of the spiral spring, parallel to the axis of the clamping bolt;

Insert a clamping bolt with a rotating bracket into the hole so that, when it goes beyond the casing, it rotates under the action of a spring perpendicular to the axis of the clamping bolt;

holding the patch by the bolt, turning the nut by the handles, press it to the casing rubber seal with a pressure disk until the water leak from the hole is eliminated.

The non-working surfaces of the patch are painted with red lead, the working surfaces (pressure bolt, spring, nut thread) are lubricated with grease, the rubber seal is covered with chalk.

Leaks on a yacht can be caused by a variety of faults: holes, loose seams, leaking seals, etc. Regardless of the cause, any leak poses a serious danger to the ship and its crew. In this regard, if seawater is detected entering the yacht, all measures should be immediately taken to eliminate this malfunction.

Cause of leak

The arsenal of modern sailors includes a large number of ways and means of eliminating sea leaks. The use of one or another housing sealing technology depends on the cause of the leak. Before you begin to eliminate the accident, you should establish the cause of the leak and assess its size. As a rule, there are two main reasons, they are closely related to each other:

• Through mechanical damage to the hull due to impact with stones, a pier, another vessel, as a result of grounding, exposure to storm waves. Such damage includes: holes and cracks in the body, loose seams.
• Depressurization of the housing due to technical malfunctions and physical wear of components and parts. These are weakened rivets and bolted connections, leakage of the stuffing box, rubber seals and so on.

The sizes of the holes can also vary, from small gaps in sealing joints that do not pose an immediate danger to the survivability of the vessel, to large holes that threaten the death of the yacht and crew. After assessing the size and nature of the damage, immediate measures must be taken to repair them.

Hull holes

This type of accident is one of the most common reasons loss of ships. They differ in shape, size and location. Each type of hole has its own sealing methods. Medium and small holes can be repaired from inside the vessel using available means. Large holes often require the installation of a patch outside the vessel.

A large leak can lead to the death of even a large vessel in a matter of minutes, not to mention small sailing boats. To eliminate it, the following procedure should be used:

1. Reset the boat, stop the engine, remove sailing equipment. If possible, you need to turn the yacht with the hole downstream or downwind.
2. Start searching for the leak and examining it. Clear the hole from all objects and structures that interfere with its repair: internal lining, floors, furniture.
3. Using all means at hand, you need to quickly block access to sea water inside the vessel, or try to reduce it as much as possible. For these purposes, any suitable items are used: mattresses, clothing, life jackets, upholstery stripped from furniture.
4. At the same time, the rest of the crew must take emergency measures to combat the survivability of the vessel. Begin removing water from the housing using all available means.
5. After preliminary sealing of the leak, without ceasing to remove the incoming water, you need to proceed with the major installation of the leak.

The easiest way to seal a large hole or several smaller ones, located next to each other in the body, is to seal it with a plaster. These can be hard or soft patches. They are made in advance and are included in the yacht's emergency kit. For the base of a rigid plaster, a piece of thick plywood or a plank board is suitable. A layer of soft rubber, a thick blanket or tow wrapped in canvas is stuffed onto it. The soft patch consists of a piece of canvas with eyelets located around its perimeter. To ensure that the patch does not float up when applied to the hole, weights are sewn onto its edges.

Placing the patch

A rigid patch is installed on the hole from the inside of the side. The following sequence of actions must be followed:

1. We clear the area around the hole from all objects that interfere with the work: furniture, parts of the interior lining.
2. Often the edges of the holes in metal cases are bent inward, which interferes with the tight fit of the patch to the walls. In this case, you need to quickly straighten the concave edges, or bend them outward using a sledgehammer or the butt of an ax.
3. We install the patch in place of the hole with the hard shield facing up and the soft side towards the board.
4. We fix the patch over the hole using any available or most convenient methods. Self-tapping screws and nails may be suitable for this - for a wooden case, or improvised spacers - for a metal or fiberglass one. Spacers can be made from pieces of internal furnishings, floor boards, resting one end against the shield and the other against the ceiling of the cockpit, or against the opposite wall. The spacers should also be secured with nails or self-tapping screws to prevent them from weakening and falling out during rocking.

In the absence of a pre-prepared rigid plaster, it can be quickly constructed from pieces of internal wooden cladding and the same life jackets; you need to prop up the entire structure with a board.

A soft patch is installed outside the body, above the hole. To do this, a pre-prepared piece of tarpaulin with the ends inserted into eyelets on both sides is placed under the vessel. It is generally recommended to start from the bow of the boat to avoid the patch getting caught on the propellers, rudders or keel. For the same purposes, weights are sewn around the perimeter of the panel: nuts and bolts large diameter, canvas bags with pebbles, etc. To make it more convenient to determine the location of the soft patch under water, a marked end is attached to its upper edge.

When the soft patch is brought to the outer side of the board in such a way that the hole is in the center of the panel, it is attracted by means of cables attached to its edges. On small boats this procedure is performed manually, but on large yachts mechanical blocks and hoists can be used. As soon as the hull of the vessel is tightly sealed with a plaster and the flow of sea water has stopped, its ends are securely fastened to the deck. All work on installing the patch should be done as quickly and smoothly as possible, for which it is a good idea to carry out preliminary training for the team. The part of the crew not directly involved in its installation must continuously remove water coming from outside from the yacht’s hull.

Other ways to seal a leak

Smaller holes can be plugged with the same available means (clothing, mattresses, vests), covering them with boards and securing them with spacers. Gaps formed between the hull sheathing sheets can be sealed using dry wood wedges. When wet, the wedges hammered close to each other will swell and close all the gaps in the crack. In a similar way, you can temporarily plug a fallen rivet.

Another way to seal small holes is with so-called cement boxes. They are used both for reliable fixation of rigid adhesives and as an independent means of eliminating leaks. Cement boxes are a frame made of boards. This frame is installed above the hole, previously sealed using available materials. Special quick-hardening cement is poured into the frame and filled with water. You can install a box on a small hole without pre-sealing. To do this, a piece of metal tube is driven into the through hole to drain water, a frame is installed and filled with cement. After this, the drainage pipe is plugged from the outer end.

A common cause of leaks is the lack of tightness of gaskets, seals, and pipeline valves. To eliminate such accidents, you need to have on board a repair kit made from pieces of soft rubber, sealing seals, and tarred tow. Tubes with failed valves can be plugged using previously prepared plugs made of soft wood, wrapped in canvas or tarred tow. These plugs should be attached near each tap to quickly eliminate the malfunction.

Prevention

In order to prevent unpleasant surprises, a preventative inspection of the vessel should be carried out before each trip to sea. Any leaks of oil seals and gaskets must be eliminated in advance, and all poorly functioning water stop valves must be replaced with new ones. Loose rivets are drilled out and replaced with others, or bolts with rubber gaskets. Special attention Before going to sea, the crew should be given training on how to act in an emergency. The speed of liquidation of the accident, and therefore the lives of the people on board, largely depends on this.

§ 59. Elimination of emergency damage to the ship.

After every even slight impact with the ground, other vessels or the pier, you should check the hull of the vessel and make sure that no water is entering it.

It should be remembered that reducing the flow of water into the hull through the hole can be achieved by stopping the vessel or reducing the speed.

If water appears inside the vessel, it should be pumped out and the cause of the leak eliminated. There is very often a small amount of water inside wooden ships; its level must be systematically measured and must be pumped out.

Water entering the hull through the side in the rain or during waves must be pumped out immediately: on small open boats and boats with a watering can (scoop), bucket or portable pump, and on larger boats - with sump pumps (pumps).

If there is a small amount of water in the boat, to completely dry the bottom, you can use a mop or rag, which collects the water and then squeezes it out.

If water quickly enters the hull of the boat, you need to set a course towards the shore, find the leak and take measures to repair the damage using the means available on the boat. A leak on a boat with a wooden hull can be detected by putting your ear to different places on the inner lining: at the location of the leak, you can hear the murmur of water. After identifying the cause of the water ingress, the size of the hole or the place where the seam has split is determined, and space is freed up to seal the leak. A small hole or crack can be temporarily plugged with a gag made from rags, tow, felt, clothing, etc. The gag must match the size of the hole or crack. On the inside, the gag is pressed against a board, which can be strengthened with wedges or spacers. If the hole in the side is slightly below the waterline, then the load can be moved to the opposite side so that the hole is above the water. A hole in the bow can often be lifted out of the water by trimming to the stern. Actions to eliminate leaks must be timely and fast. If wood paneling is damaged in the above-water part near the waterline, you can repair the hole from the outside with a piece of plywood.

On large motor yachts and boats on long-distance amateur voyages should have soft plaster and other emergency material, including tow. The soft patch consists of two layers of canvas, with felt laid between them. The patch is lined with lyctross; at the corners there are holes for threading tackle (sheets), with the help of which the patch is brought to the hole site. The plaster can be replaced with a tarpaulin or tarpaulin impregnated with drying oil. the right size. The patch is lowered to the hole site using the under-keel ends, which are attached to the lights of the lyctros (Fig. 133). The work is carried out in a place where the current is weak, or even better, where there is no current at all. A plaster is brought from the nose under the body to the site of the hole. The patch placed under the hole will be pressed against the hole by water pressure and the flow will stop. After this, the hole is sealed from the inside.

Rice. 133. A soft patch attached to a hole in the hull

Before setting sail on large boats and on some small vessels, it is recommended to prepare hard plasters - shields various sizes. The hard plaster shield is made of plywood covered with tarpaulin, under which a thick layer of tow is placed. A rigid patch is attached to the hole from the inside with a spacer, nails or wedges.

Rice. 134. Steering a boat in a rudder accident: A- stern oar; b- towing objects

If the steering rope is damaged, the boat is anchored or brought to shore to repair the damage. You can use a temporary tiller.

A broken tiller and rudder can be temporarily replaced (Fig. 134) with a stern oar, a board, towing a bucket on two cables, etc. A broken tiller can be set in motion, providing steering control of the vessel wrench. The speed of a vessel with a broken rudder or tiller must be reduced to such an extent that the vessel can be steered. If it is impossible to eliminate the breakage and breakage of the rudder loops on wooden ships, then they are replaced with rope ones. To do this, a hole is made in the rudder through which a strong cable is passed, the ends of which are secured with nails and staples to the keel and sternpost (Fig. 135). The tension of the cable regulates the free rotation of the steering wheel and prevents excessive swinging. Broken poles, oars, rudder blades, and fastening parts are often connected with overhead tires, tied with wire or cable (Fig. 136).

If the ship is involved in an accident or may take on water, the crew and passengers must put on and secure life-saving devices. Such a measure should not be considered an element of cowardice or panic: it is dictated common sense and the difficult situation in which the ship and its crew found themselves.

Air boxes installed on boats and boats, although they take up space, provide the vessel with buoyancy even during flooding. Logs, empty barrels, cans, lifebuoys and other light objects tied to the sides of a boat or dinghy also provide buoyancy.

If, when filling with water or capsizing, the ship remains afloat, then while waiting for help, you need to grab the side of the boat and, saving strength, slowly, tow the ship to a shallow place, the shore, helping weakened comrades. If possible, you should use signals or any other way to attract attention. Usually, for some time after capsizing, there is a certain amount of air in the ship’s hull, which ensures unsinkability in the keel-up position. A ship equipped with special air boxes will float even if it fills with water. Each of the accident victims must have a rescue device and not swim away from the ship, even if the shore is close, and also not climb onto an overturned ship.

There are many known cases when crew members of an overturned ship swam from it to the shore, but died along the way, while poor swimmers held on to the overturned ship and remained alive.

If strength allows, you need to try to put the capsized ship on the keel and scoop out the water from it. As soon as the sides rise at least a few centimeters from the water, one person from the stern or bow should carefully climb into the vessel and continue to drain the water. Then, as the water is cleared, everyone else climbs onto the ship one by one.

If a ship capsizes under sails, then first of all you need to remove them. It is impossible to keel the ship with sails. All ships are required to provide assistance to those in distress. The emergency vessel must be approached from the leeward side. You cannot approach under sail to provide assistance.

Repairing damage to a ship's hull using concrete has significant advantages over other methods, as it is reliable, durable and airtight. With the help of concreting, it is possible not only to eliminate the water tightness of the hull, but also to partially restore local strength in the area of ​​​​the damaged hull. Sealing holes with concrete is carried out to more reliably seal the ship's hull after temporarily sealing the hole with a plaster, especially in hard-to-reach places (under the foundations of steam boilers, mechanisms, at the ends and on the cheekbones of the ship). In addition, practice has shown that in most cases, only concreting can restore the tightness of the flooded compartments of a ship sitting on rocks or hard ground.

The disadvantages of concreting damage are that it is a very complex and time-consuming procedure. Concrete does not tolerate vibration well and has low tensile strength. Concreting must be carried out in a dry room, since underwater concreting is much more difficult and less reliable.

Concreting can be used to seal surface and underwater holes. The simplest thing is to seal holes located above the existing waterline, if it is not possible to seal these leaks using gas or electric welding. Such sealing is carried out when there are small holes and cracks in the casing, which are previously closed with patches, plugs, and wedges; caulk; The ship's hull in the damaged area is thoroughly cleaned, hard to reach places you can burn it blowtorch; then formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

Rice. 1. Place a cement box on the hole. a - bottom; b - onboard; 1 - emphasis; 2 - formwork; 3 - drainage pipe; 4 - hard plaster; 5 - wedges for emphasis; 6 - wedge for a hole.

Installation of a cement box. In general, the organization of installing a cement box on a hole located in the underwater part of the ship’s hull is carried out as follows (Fig. 1):

• if it is possible to install a soft patch on the hole with outside housing, it is advisable to do this, excluding large water leaks into the emergency compartment;
• from inside the emergency compartment, a hard plaster must be installed and secured onto the hole 4 in the form of wood with soft sides; if the ship does not have a patch of the required size, one should be made;
• the side in the area of ​​the hole is thoroughly cleaned;
• knock together a wooden internal formwork (box) around the hole (around a hard plaster or plugs, yushnyev), consisting of four walls and a lid; It is recommended to press the formwork tightly against the emergency side; the cracks in the box are carefully sealed (caulked); if the situation allows, it is more advisable to use a metal box;
• a hole is made in the bottom of the box and a metal drainage tube is installed with a slight slope 3 (tube diameter 3 must be selected in such a way that the water drains freely without pressure);
• a second, outer box (formwork) is installed above the inner formwork bigger size, consisting of only four walls (without top cover); the distance between the walls of the outer and inner boxes and the excess above the lid must be at least 250 mm;
• the length of the drainage tube is selected so that it extends beyond the outer box (formwork);
• after securing the formwork, the space between the walls of the boxes is filled with pre-prepared cement mortar;
• after final hardening cement mortar the hole in the drainage tube is clogged with a wooden plug.

Preparation of cement mortar. Cement mortar (concrete) must be made near the work site (if the size of the emergency compartment allows) on a special flooring with sides made of tightly packed boards.

Components of cement mortar and their ratio:

• quick-hardening cement (Portland cement, alumina cement, Baidalin cement or others) - 1 part;
• filler (sand, gravel, broken brick, or, in extreme cases, slag) - 2 parts;
• concrete hardening accelerator (liquid glass - 5 - 8% general composition mixtures, caustic soda - 5 - 6%, calcium chloride - 8 - 10%, hydrochloric acid - 1 - 1,5%);
• water (fresh or sea water, but preparing concrete using sea ​​water reduces its strength by 10%) - as needed.

First, filler (sand) is poured onto the flooring, cement is placed on top, then the components of the cement are mixed, usually working together, raking with shovels towards each other.

It is necessary to pour water into the middle of the mixture in portions and mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained, resembling a thick dough.

To reduce the hardening time of the cement mortar, accelerators are added in percentages relative to the total composition of the mixture indicated above.

The prepared solution is immediately filled with the space between the internal and external formwork. The cement sets in about 8 - 12 hours, and finally hardens after 3 days.

When concreting large holes in the mortar, it is advisable to install reinforcement (steel rods tied with wire) welded to the ship's hull.

Various options for concreting damage are shown in Figures 2 - 7. Installation of a cement box (concreting) is a temporary measure. Therefore, when the ship is docked or upon its arrival at the port, damaged connections are replaced or holes are welded. In the case when it is not possible to dock the ship, the concrete seal on the ship's hull is scalded, i.e. enclosed in a steel box welded to the body. In this case, if possible, the crack itself or the broken seam in the ship’s hull is welded from the outside or from the inside. Sheets forming the wall of the box around concrete embedding or cement box, usually welded directly to the shell or frame of the vessel. Then all the free space of the cement box is filled with new mortar and sealed with overlay sheets on top.

Rice. 2. Methods for concreting holes. a, b - air concreting; c - underwater concreting; 1 - flor; 2 - formwork; 3 - concrete; 4- box (internal formwork); 5 - drainage pipe; 6 - coarse aggregate; 7 - sheet of iron.

Rice. 3. Welded cement box. 1 - wall of the box; 2 - cover; 3 - drainage pipe; 4 - outer skin; 5 - coarse aggregate; 6 - wedge in hole.

Rice. 4. Concreting holes. a, b - sealing with a box-shaped plaster; c, d - sealing with a pillow with an emphasis; 1 - soft patch; 2 - box-shaped patch; 3 - emphasis; 4 - tube; 5 - coarse aggregate; 6 - wedges; 7 - beam; 8 - pillow.

Rice. 5. Concreting cracks or filter seams in the side. A - general form; b - sectional view; 1 - box; 2 - external formwork; 3 - spacer; 4 - frame; 5 - tube; 6 - board for fastening the formwork; 7 - wedge securing the box.

Rice. 6. Concreting large cracks. a - view of the formwork fastening from above; b - cross-sectional view; 1 - tube; 2 - external formwork; 3 - stand; 4 - emphasis; 5 - wedge; 6 - filter water level; 7 - patch; 8 - internal formwork.

Rice. 7. Concreting holes in the bottom. 1 - flor; 2 - box-shaped patch; 3 - wedges; 4 - emphasis; 5 - bar; 6 - external formwork; 7 - internal formwork; 8 - tube; 9 - soft patch.