When purchasing furniture in a store, you need to think about who will assemble it. There are only two options here - do everything yourself or trust the professionals. Both cases have their pros and cons. For example, if you do not have sufficient skills and experience in assembling furniture, then this process can turn into a painful procedure not only for you, but also for the family members watching it. And the case with professionals requires additional financial costs, since quite often assembly is not included in the price of the furniture itself.

Furniture assembled by yourself will cost much less than the work of a craftsman.

Therefore, many people try to learn how to assemble furniture with their own hands. If you are one of them, then the information presented below should definitely be useful to you. From it you will learn how to assemble furniture yourself, without turning to specialists for help.

General rules

Assembling a sliding wardrobe.

So, you have had the chance to assemble the furniture yourself, and if you want the process of assembling furniture to give you only pleasure, you need to adhere to some mandatory conditions. Preparatory stage in this matter, it is very important, no less than the process of assembling furniture itself.

Prepare necessary tools. Which ones you may need will be discussed below. When delivering your furniture, please ensure that assembly instructions are included with the packaging. Using it, assembling furniture will be much easier and faster.

After the furniture has been delivered to your apartment, it is imperative to check the presence of all components and the absence of damage or defects on them. This is done in the presence of a delivery representative. Please pay Special attention on parts of furniture made of glass or mirror. Their surface should not have scratches or other defects, since even with the slightest damage aesthetic appearance this element will be broken.

If you find heavily damaged or dirty packaging, be sure to take a closer look at the parts inside. Another important point– availability of fittings and fasteners. Sometimes it is included in one of the packages, and sometimes it is stored separately and the delivery service must hand it over to you. It is simply necessary to ask about this so as not to create additional problems for yourself.

You might be interested in: How to make a wooden table?

Once you have read the instructions that came with the furniture, plan your assembly steps. In order not to randomly rush from one part to another, looking for the one you need, arrange all the parts in advance in the order in which the instructions recommend assembly. Only in this case will it be simple and easy for you to assemble furniture.

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List of required tools

Tools needed for work: tape measure, hammer, hex keys, hammer drill, jigsaw, building level.

You will need some tools that will make this process much easier. Let's start with what may be useful to you when assembling simple structures. This list includes:

• tape measure - it is needed to take measurements of furniture parts, as well as measurements free space when determining the location of the future structure;
• don't forget about the screwdriver, and also better use a screwdriver, a drill is also suitable - the last two tools will significantly speed up the entire assembly process;
• hammer - it will be necessary when it is necessary to drive in fasteners such as eccentrics, etc.;
• hex keys may also be needed;
• regular wrenches, preferably different sizes.

If the furniture you bought is quite simple, then this list of tools will be quite enough for you.

https://site/youtu.be/M9ENF6-m9OM

But in the case of furniture assembly complex design it is necessary to take care of a wider range of tools. To complement the first one you will need:

• hammer drill - it’s very good if you prepare a set of different drills along with it;
• jigsaw - this tool must be equipped with interchangeable files of different sizes and tooth locations;
• detection device electrical wiring– it will be necessary in the absence of its scheme;
• building level - his help will be needed when it is necessary to check the level placement of furniture or markings on the wall for subsequent fastening;
• a set of drills designed for processing glass and ceramics;
• A stapler for furniture can come in handy, but much less frequently than all of the above tools.

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You might be interested in: Kitchen design options

Types of furniture fasteners

To make it easier to master furniture assembly, you need to at least briefly become familiar with the existing fasteners for it.

1. Let's start with the screw universal type with a hidden head. Its standard size is 3.5X16. This type of fastener must be purchased separately from the furniture, since it is usually not included in the kit. With its help, you can secure the back wall of furniture, attach handles and hinges, and it also does an excellent job of fixing retractable guides for various types shelves You can use a screwdriver to screw it in.
2. Furniture screw. Connecting with it is quite simple and convenient. Its design includes both a nut and a screw. The screw head is usually square-shaped with curves. Its feature is the ability to conveniently tighten without scrolling.
3. Corner. With its help it is very easy to connect structures of a perpendicular nature. The material for its manufacture is most often metal, but there are also plastic options(it all depends on the purpose of this fastener). The dimensions of the furniture corner can also be different.
4. Another type of permanent fastener is finger joint. Its design is a cylinder-shaped element made of wood. To use it for its intended purpose, you will need glue, which is applied to its end part, and it is placed in a previously prepared hole. The other end part, protruding outward, is also treated with glue and is located in another part of the furniture, thereby fastening them together.
5. Confirmat belongs to the category of basic fasteners intended for furniture assembly. It is screwed into both parts of the furniture, as if attracting them together. Standard size of these fasteners corresponds to a value of 6.4X50 mm. In order to use the confirmation, you need to prepare a hole for its placement. A hex wrench is used to secure it.

This article will help you assemble the cabinet wall without much mental and physical stress. You will have to work, but you will have a clear plan of action. By following which you are guaranteed to get the desired result.

It will be more convenient for you to move towards your goal by following the instructions in my article. Having achieved the result, you will experience a very pleasant feeling of pride for a man’s heart! This is worth a little sweat. And let's not forget that you are saving your family budget.

How to assemble a furniture wall

The process will move faster if you use a screwdriver. In case of emergency, Euro hexagon wrench No. 4 will help you cope with the assembly. Let's prepare additionally:

1. Phillips screwdriver or bit
2. Tape measure 5 m
3. A couple of clamps (optional)
4. Small hammer

Wall assembly

Study the product sketch. Calculate, if they do not exist, the overall dimensions of the wall. And a room for installation. There must be a gap of at least one centimeter along the length. If the dimensions of the wall and the room are equal, installation will be impossible without reducing the size of the modules.

We will eat the elephant piece by piece. The pieces are separate modules. They are usually packaged separately. We expand and check availability against the list. Mentally imagine its location in the structure. It's better to draw by hand if you don't have one.

It is more convenient to assemble the cabinet in a horizontal position, face up, in the room where the wall will be located. To do this, we free the room from things and objects that block the free space. It wouldn't hurt to have a workbench that would make it easier to assemble small modules.

After we have assembled the box, we need to check whether the height of the ceilings allows us to raise the assembled structure vertically. Having convinced ourselves of this, we calmly continue to work. If the box does not stand up, then you need to assemble the modules while standing, which will complicate the task somewhat.

Within walking distance from you, located according to the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Cabinet diagonal

Reading the assembly diagram, we attract the internal shelves. Then we turn the cabinet on its face and check the diagonals. They must be equal, the error is tall cabinets+ – 2 mm. After making sure that the angles are correct, we fasten the DVPO with small furniture nails.

Before attaching the back wall, you should measure the distance from the bottom or cover to the center of the inner shelf. Having saved the size, we transfer it to the DVPO and break through the shelf along the line nails can be tightened with self-tapping screws. Additional rigidity will appear and there will be no cracks from the face.

Facade fastening

The work will be done better if it is done in. To do this, we turn the cabinet over onto the side to which the façade will be attached. And we leave enough space nearby for the location of the front door. Clean the area in advance to avoid scratching the door.

We find facade front door. We attach the loops to it and press it end side cut of the slab, to the end of the cabinet side. Aligning with the lower horizon, we tighten it with yellow or white 16 mm screws. We loosen the hinges and remove the door, having previously signed it.

Screed modules

When the horizontal work is completed, we raise the modules to their feet. We arrange them according to the sketch and level them, adjusting the legs. If there is no adjustment, we use different pads. I advise you to purchase separately reliable adjustable legs if they are not included in the kit.

Then we align the sides of the cabinets flush to each other and fix them with clamps. Using furniture ties, we tighten the cabinets, preferably in invisible places. Having pre-drilled both sidewalls for the ties with a 5 mm drill, one sidewall for self-tapping screws.

Product adjustment

We wipe the dust off the wall and eliminate visible defects. Using a furniture touch for this, in the color of the chipboard. You can buy it in the store furniture fittings. Enter the corresponding query into the search engine and the system will give you all the registered stores in your city.

We install the signed facades in their places. Slowly insert the loops into "aircraft" fastening part of the hinge to the sidewall.Use a Phillips screwdriver to create nice, uniform gaps. We glue it onto the visible heads of the Euroscrews.

Installation of compartment doors

Does the wall design have sliding compartment doors? Easier than swing ones! We attach the upper W-shaped track to the cabinet roof, aligning it flush with the front edge. We throw the lower running track onto the bottom of the cabinet without pulling it. We take the compartment door with both hands by the profile, facing us.

We start, from bottom to top, the door into the W-shaped track until it stops. We press the rollers from below and insert them into the strips of the running track. I dedicated a separate article to this process on my blog. So if you don’t have enough information, go ahead and read.

Conclusion

Congratulations, you have completed the task! Now you can invite your wife to hand over the project and brag about your results to your friends. By the way, this result will allow you to earn good money. Price installation work, on average is 5-10% of the cost of the product. It's not difficult to calculate.

If you need detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact us. We will definitely discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a common opinion. For a moderate percentage for my work, I, on time.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I will be very interested to hear your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust :)

Rekun Dmitry.

Sometimes assembling furniture yourself can be a real challenge. Depending on the design, the same closet or chest of drawers can test the strength of your nerves. Usually, various problems arise during the first assembly, so we’ll talk about the intricacies and features of the process.

Basic Rules

First of all, in order to assemble any piece of furniture well, it must be of high quality. Therefore, when accepting delivery, first check the contents of your order. Most often, a single piece of furniture, or an entire set, should be accompanied by a list of parts, which will be the first part of your instructions for properly assembling the furniture.

Before this, you should have accurately measured the space that the furniture you bought will occupy, so that in the end it would not turn out that the conventional wardrobe simply does not fit in the right place.

Moreover, you need to take into account that the same cabinet must also be assembled indoors, and the latter must be spacious enough to comfortably carry out assembly and subsequent movements. Carpets should be removed and the floor itself should be covered with something like a blanket to protect the surface from damage.

Tool

No less important is the tool that is needed to assemble furniture - sometimes a simple screwdriver may be enough for you, in other cases you may need a whole arsenal, it depends more on the size of the furniture and the complexity of the design.

Beginner difficulty level

For simple pieces of furniture you will need a simple tape measure, a hammer, several screwdrivers (can be replaced with a screwdriver), a drill (situational), a hammer and several wrenches. All this is enough to assemble the initial difficulty levels.

Complex designs

This category includes large pieces of furniture with a large number of parts, including moving ones, or furniture complex shape. Photos of assembling furniture with your own hands, of this type, can often be found in magazines and catalogs.

For it, in addition to the above items, you may need: a level, a hammer drill with various drills, furniture stapler and the like.

Dresser

Let's look at a diagram of assembling furniture with your own hands using the example of an ordinary chest of drawers. The item is very useful, and in any living room - it’s hard to imagine a bedroom or children’s room without it.

Previously, its role was played by simple chests. The disadvantage of such a piece of furniture was very simple design- at its core, it was a box that was closed with a lid, which is very inconvenient for storage large quantity clothes, despite the obvious spaciousness.

Its modern analogue, a chest of drawers, is well suited not only for outerwear, but also for shoes, cosmetics and other things that the owner may need.

Blueprints

If speak about step by step assembly furniture with your own hands, you should always start with drawings. First you need to decide on the place where the chest of drawers will stand - depending on this, it can be made higher or wider.

As for the assembly process itself, here the drawings, namely graphic and text descriptions, will help you assemble the furniture not only correctly, but also quickly - usually their role is played by simple instructions according to the assembly, which good shops complete almost any piece of furniture.

For example, IKEA completes all its designs with all the necessary documentation, consumables in the form of self-tapping screws, bolts and the like.

If the kit contains fastenings that require a special tool (hexagon) - this is also included in the delivery kit.

back side

But not everyone buys furniture from IKEA and Hoff, and it often turns out that the furniture you bought does not include any fasteners, and sometimes even drawings. In this case, you will need a photo, looking at which you bought it all, nails, screws, a screwdriver, bolts of different sizes and a lot of patience.

Note!

Assembly

If you give advice on assembling furniture to a beginner, it is best to start from the bottom or back wall. They are usually solid and solid, so other parts are attached to them.

Most often, the chest of drawers has drawers, the guides of which will be more convenient to install while the walls are not secured and do not hinder movement. Next you need to assemble the drawers themselves and install the fittings.

If you need to assemble something like a large wardrobe, then you need to start by installing the frame - the bottom, the back wall, if there is one, the side walls and the top. Only after this can you begin installing the internal parts.

In the case of small cabinets and racks, it will be more convenient to assemble in the free space on the floor or big table, and then simply move it to the desired location.

Note!

You should assemble it carefully, but without fear - there is no need to rush, usually the manufacturer thinks through the assembly process for you, the main thing is to understand how he presents it.

Photo of DIY furniture assembly

Note!

Hello WD!

Sliding wardrobe and chest of drawers in the amount of about 17,000, including custom sliding doors:




At home I collected several pieces of furniture, I started with the kitchen, it was the most necessary at that time, then a chest of drawers, a wardrobe (only the frame, I ordered the doors assembled due to lack of time, but it’s also possible to assemble it myself) and three shoe racks . Then they renovated the bathroom, and made a table from the remnants of the kitchen chipboard and countertop (though it would have been better to do the renovation in the bathroom first, because after sawing the plaster walls, it took a long time to wash the entire kitchen from this dust, there was dust everywhere). In assembling all this furniture, the most difficult part for me was installation and adjustment kitchen facades, I’ll write about this separately. In terms of timing: all this happened from approximately April to December. With the kitchen, of course, there are the most problems, because it is not just a box/frame with shelves, but a bunch of small sections that must fit together correctly, and into which all sorts of appliances still need to be built. When the cut ended up at my house and I took over the kitchen, I gave up everything: beer, hookah, computer games))) In the morning at 06:30 I took my wife to the bus stop (at that time there were no minibuses yet), returned and packed the kitchen, and at 8:45 I went to work. In the evening I came and assembled the kitchen, on weekends I assembled the kitchen almost all day, the kitchen became my whole life for 3 months: D
Here is my photo report on assembling the kitchen (there is no description of the process of making furniture there) and an estimate; I won in the category “World Trends in Russian Furniture”:
sdelaimebel-konkurs....
Bring your projects to life - submit them too, this competition is annual, there are others.
There are different programs, I created all this in PRO100, there are a bunch of templates for it on the Internet. At first I tried to use these templates (in any case, you need to play with them to understand what and how is done in this program), but I realized that by typing cabinets from different projects kitchens, they need to be joined to each other and adjusted to size, etc. For me, this turned out to be an inconvenient and unreliable method, so I decided to design from scratch, from a plank. Of all the furniture, I only made the chest of drawers based on someone else’s template, slightly adjusting it. Among other things, in the properties of the boards there is a parameter - display in the report. In the templates for some parts this parameter is removed, and if you use them as a basis, you may end up not ordering something by accident. More details: in the program you can create a report on the basis of which you order a cut - a list of parts with dimensions and quantities, and sides with an edge (for each part you indicate on which sides the edge should be made: 0, 1 or 2 in width and 0, 1 or 2 along the length - you can easily apply it yourself at home with an iron and sandpaper, but on the scale of a kitchen it’s long and tedious, I decided to immediately order cutting with edging). Each part can be assigned a name. So, this report does not display the details that are used for decorative elements, etc. (well, they put in all sorts of vases, curtains, refrigerators for clients), but it happens that in a furniture template some board is not displayed in the report, so I decided author. In short, this is all to say that it’s better to create everything yourself from a plank, so you definitely won’t miss anything))) I ordered the edge for the kitchen “in a circle” - all 4 edges with an edge - small additional protection if moisture gets on the joints, but in fact the back edges (which look at the wall) do not need an edge, in theory there is no moisture there, you can also save money, I didn’t think about it at the time of ordering.


Well, in general, everything is simple: you create a room (specify the dimensions), then you create your cabinets in it (wall, wall, back wall, bottom, lid, shelf, you can do it in any order). The thickness of chipboard for frames is 16mm, chipboard for sliding doors is 10mm, if the back wall is made of fiberboard, then 4mm (fibreboard can be second-rate, you can save a little more, the quality is tolerable, and the back walls are not visible when you fill the kitchen), the facades are 20mm (this It seems to be a standard, it could be thinner, but personally, my Forstner drill (to drill holes for hinges) with the tip pushes through a 16mm board, the outside ends up chipped, although the facades can be ordered straight away with holes for hinges, it seems). We ordered facades from MDF (Sidak company, SP-b), almost two years passed - nothing swelled. You can order cuts by the meter (they will only give you your parts, no questions asked if the order is large) or buy whole chipboard sheets(1830x2440x16), they will cut them to you and give you the rest (we had two different offices in one place, and the cost was different, it was cheaper to buy sheets, plus the leftovers were used), if the order is small, they can force you to buy the whole sheet , because then they have nowhere to put the leftovers.
This is what my leftover chipboard and countertops from the kitchen were used for (I ordered green doors separately):

Remains of 10mm chipboard from sliding doors:

This is what the kitchen cut looked like:


Before assembling the kitchen, I laid a laminate floor on the floor and assembled the furniture on it, on the one hand, so as not to drag all the boxes from another room later, on the other, so that my wife would have a clean corner without sawdust and debris. In fact, if the kitchen is medium-sized, it is unlikely that it will be possible to place all the cabinets on the floor; I took some of the assembled ones into the room.

So this is what I mean: in order not to damage the laminate, I laid a sheet and assembled it on it. If your home has linoleum, then it is better to assemble it on it, and only then lay the laminate (if there are such plans) and install it on it. ready-made kitchen. Laminate joints throughout the kitchen must be sealed with sealant.


Required tools:

- corner clamp (the most important assistant, I love it, I took a photo while I was sleeping with some boards: D),

- a screwdriver with a spare battery - one works, the other is charged (lighter and more maneuverable than a drill, although a drill drills holes faster), ideally a drill + a screwdriver - you drill with a drill, tighten the confirms with a screwdriver, you don’t waste time changing bits. If I’m not mistaken, I took a bag of 500 pieces of confirmats for this kitchen, some remained, but there wasn’t enough for the rest of the furniture, I bought another 100 or 200.
- a 6mm wood drill (for 7x50 confirmations) or 5mm (for 6.3x50 confirmations) with a depth stop and a countersink (to make recesses for the heads) - it seems like there are 3 in one (drill + stopper + countersink),
- Allen key or hex bit (I don’t remember mm) for tightening confirms,
- jigsaw (to cut into the sink and hob), you can borrow, in Leroy Merlin or Castorama they cost 300 rubles. - will roll,
- a furniture stapler - costs 200 rubles, it’s very convenient to nail the back walls made of fiberboard (although you can get by with nails), the tension is adjustable, if it’s weak, you’ll have to hit it with a hammer,
- a metal ruler (I don’t think I used a square, but I don’t know),
- Forstner drill for drilling holes for hinges in facades,
- pencil,
- roulette,
- screwdrivers (flat and Phillips),
- vacuum cleaner (there will be a lot of sawdust on the floor).
Assembly process.
It is important to remember which board you are joining to which (so that you don’t have to re-drill and fill extra holes). For this purpose, I first laid out the entire cabinet on the floor, and then began to assemble it next to it, gradually taking it out one board at a time.

I recently came across an assembly method that differs from mine. The locations of the holes in the two boards being joined are marked with a ruler and pencil, drilled separately, and then joined:
andreylappo.ru/mmebe... (in this video you will find instructions for assembling upholstered furniture)
My method: pull two parts together corner clamp at an angle of 90 degrees, you mark out places for future holes. When assembling boxes in which all the walls and bottom are made of chipboard (and maybe not only in such prints, I don’t remember exactly), and they are also connected to each other with confirmats, you need to make an adjustment for the depth of the confirmats so that they do not bump into each other , that is, make holes no closer than 6cm from the edge)

you drill both at once (you definitely won’t miss, and they will fit together without gaps)

use a countersink to make recesses for the caps (especially important for kitchens at the junction of adjacent cabinets

You immediately twist it, glue/insert plugs if necessary, and you’re done.

Wall + bottom, wall + lid, then you connect them and insert shelves inside.



Under the cap itself, the confirmat has a wider part than the thread itself, so the board perpendicular to the confirmat is recommended in the same video to be drilled a little wider with a drill so that it does not burst. I didn’t do that, it was torn in a couple of places, but not very noticeable.
When drilling, the main thing is to take your time and maintain verticality. I remember I had already assembled several cabinets, I thought “why is it so slow, you can do it faster,” and the drill immediately came out of the wall: D Fortunately, it was a long shot top corner wall cabinet, not visible.
Some advice for specific situations:
U wall cabinets In the kitchen, I docked the walls from the sides to the bottom, and not vice versa (you can put the bottom, and the walls on top of it). In fact, it’s possible to do both, but for wall cabinets with heavy contents, the bottom naturally needs to be secured from the sides so that the weight of the filling doesn’t tear the bottom out and it doesn’t fall through along with the confirmations. You need to design the cabinets accordingly and assemble them by looking at your layout. For shoe racks this is not so critical; there will be no plugs on the sides.
Wall hinged cabinets 1200mm wide - there I had a small joint with a dish dryer. 2 doors, 2 sections separated by one vertical board, and not two, so it was planned to have 2 sections of 600mm each, but in reality each is a little wider. As a result, the standard dish dryer did not reach the edges, I had to tinker with the fastenings, the dryer holds up fine, but the tray sometimes falls out.
The wall part of my kitchen is slightly wider than the floor bases (this is only noticeable in the area of ​​the apron). One and a half centimeters. This is due to the fact that I did not make allowances for the fastenings of wall cabinets, which are not attached tightly to the wall, but slightly at an angle (there is a way to fasten closely, but then I did not dare to do it, there are difficulties).
In a cabinet with drawers, you need to position the drawers correctly in height so that you can cut hinges in the spaces between them or above the top and below the bottom drawer.
I made the facades with a 2mm indentation on each side (that is, for example, for a 600*900 cabinet we make a 596*896 facade), although I read somewhere about 2mm on top and bottom, 3mm on each side. Who cares, 2 was enough for me.
Loop insertion. We had an old sofa that we didn't mind. I laid the façade directly on it (on something soft so as not to scratch it, although protective film yes), and drilled holes on it for the hinges. The main thing here is not to drill too deep so as not to damage the outer part of the facade. Drill a little - try on the loop, drill as much as you need. In this process, I was pleased with the variety of sawdust))) instead of the usual MDF chipboard shavings, some kind of pressed cardboard fell. It seems they sell templates for inserting hinges (for marking the façade), but I didn’t have any. I think I made a 4mm indentation from the edge, but I don’t remember the height calculations. In general, I didn’t approach this matter for a long time, I collected information, collected my thoughts, and after installing the kitchen I completely abandoned it for a couple of months. But in fact it’s in vain, because hanging facades by weight is possible, but it’s inconvenient. It’s easier to embed the hinges into the facade, put the base on its side, move the door towards it, open the hinge and immediately fasten the bar to the frame. By the way, in particular for cabinets with shelves, it is much easier to attach the facade when there is no shelf. If possible, assemble the frame, drill and secure the shelf(s), then remove it, hang the façade and stick the shelf back in (and for shoe racks, in this case, it is better to attach the back wall at the very end, after installing the magnet and gas lifts). And only then install the kitchen/other furniture with the facades already hung. Eh, I wish I had this advice a couple of years ago...
Do the lighting at the very last moment, when you are sure that you will not have to remove the hanging drawers. When I was hanging mine, they pierced the wiring in the wall (I hung it right up to the ceiling), and even though I fixed it, I then had to take it off a couple of times and climb into the corner again. And the diode tape is self-adhesive, which, when peeled off, remains on the surface of the cabinet. In general, it is impossible to painlessly remove it and glue it back; you will need a new self-adhesive.


Diode tape consists of sections (on mine there are 3 diodes in one section), these places are easy to distinguish close up, there are + and -, it can be cut with scissors or soldered back if necessary.
Remember about the sockets that will be behind the kitchen - they need normal access, if necessary, move them in advance. I got one behind the apron, and the second behind the cabinet with drawers. I made some of the cabinets, but not all, about 5 centimeters less deep than the countertop, leaving space between back wall and a wall - we have pipes running there. But the cabinet with drawers was on the far left; there shouldn’t have been any holes there. It was possible to simply make the side wall deeper than the rest of the drawer, but I didn’t do that (I didn’t think about it), so I had to move the socket so that the drawers would not rest against the plug of the extension cord (you need to use it), placing it between these drawers .
Chest of drawers: bottom drawers You can also secure it with staples/nails, but for reliability, add self-tapping screws (or better yet, screw them through metal strips with holes), and you can even use corners at the back. This is what I did recently, after the bottom of one of the drawers fell out for the second or third time...
And most importantly, remember a few basic rules: the eyes are afraid, but the hands do, it’s never too late to learn, better late than never, but the sooner the better)) And then everything will definitely work out for you.
Thank you for reading to the end!!! :) I hope this post will encourage someone to bring their projects to life. If you have any questions, write, I will be glad to answer)

P.S. And finally, to confirm that everyone can do this, here is my 26-year-old happy face, which a year later received prizes for the kitchen)))

• April 22, 2013

Assembling furniture yourself at home is a labor-intensive task, but at the same time it is an excellent help for saving family budget, as well as the opportunity to demonstrate an original design approach and aesthetic flair. Making cabinet furniture with your own hands is not very common, but it brings noticeable benefits and moral satisfaction. The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

Select fasteners after you have decided on the base material.

In order to cope with this not very simple but fascinating task yourself, you must have at least initial skills in working with the tool and be attentive and accurate. To create cabinet furniture, you can choose inexpensive parts or use materials available in the house.

The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

To assemble a cabinet or chest of drawers, you must first calculate the parameters of the future product. To make cabinet furniture with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is make a drawing with the dimensions of all the parts.

Before making furniture, prepare a drawing of the future product.

You also need to determine what material you will use during assembly. Depending on this, fasteners, tools and auxiliary arsenal (sandpaper, etc.) are selected.

You also need to determine what material you will use during assembly.

Wood as a material can be “capricious”; it is important to choose quality boards with good, smooth texture, dried and processed. Birch, poplar, maple, aspen and others are suitable hardwoods. Conifers need special conditions, therefore, pine or spruce must be selected in combination with some other variety. Try not to select layered rocks so that the base does not split during processing.

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be made of chipboard, MDF or laminated chipboard (the latter option is the most common). These materials are processed differently.

The material requires accuracy and precision in outlines and actions.

All details of the future cabinet must be carefully checked against the drawings and carefully adjusted to the intended dimensions.

Wood as a material can be “capricious”; it is important to choose high-quality boards with a good, even texture, dried and processed.

A specialized store will help you make adjustments (trimming). This can also be done using a ruler, pencil and a wood saw at home.

If desired, you can improve the appearance with original inserts.

Chipboard panels must be coated protective composition– this will reduce the risk of evaporation of resinous substances. Other materials do not require this approach.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be made of chipboard, MDF or laminated chipboard (the latter option is the most common).

How to work with laminated chipboard - the main material for cabinet furniture?

Material such as laminated particle board, is quite actively used in the manufacture of furniture. Laminated chipboard has a number of undeniable advantages over chipboard:

• holds fasteners better;
• inhibits the evaporation of formaldehyde;
• looks aesthetically pleasing;
• You can choose an interesting texture and color.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture requires the ability to process the material, for example, to clean and cover the cuts with an edge to match the overall surface (this must be done to avoid evaporation adhesive composition Chipboard. It is also necessary to remember that when cutting to size, chips and cracks of the laminated part are possible. Assembling cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard will require care, attentiveness and accuracy.

Material such as laminated chipboard is quite actively used in the manufacture of furniture.

The panels should be coated before assembly, not after, to avoid smudges.

Furniture made from laminated chipboard is not always appropriate in a child's room, especially if the room is small, poorly ventilated or located on sunny side, and the base itself is not very high quality. Resins and chemical compounds can evaporate quickly and create an unfavorable atmosphere. This also applies to chipboard. It is better to prefer solid wood and plywood.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture requires the ability to process materials.

What tools are needed?

The tools available in the house are suitable for assembling cabinet furniture:

• screwdrivers;
• screwdrivers;
• Sander;
• jigsaw;
• wood hacksaw;
• ruler;
• simple pencil.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces. In order to measure the elements correctly, it is necessary to do this not on the floor, but on a table, preferably a carpenter's table or something similar. You can use stools as supports when cutting off extra centimeters from the board.

To assemble a cabinet or chest of drawers, you must first calculate the parameters of the future product.

Preparation before assembly

Selected material - chipboard, laminated chipboard or panels from solid wood– needs to be processed correctly. Preparing the parts of a cabinet or chest of drawers involves leveling the surfaces, if it is not a laminated base, as well as cleaning them from roughness and burrs. The cut edges of the chipboard can simply be sanded and covered with a matching laminated edge.

Spot lighting is also a practical addition.

Any material that you are going to use must be of high quality and well dried so that after production the product does not create dangerous chemical fumes in the room.

Before assembling cabinet furniture, you need to carefully measure the area where the structure will be installed. For a cabinet with doors, you need to leave a little free space so that the doors can open without the possibility of friction against the walls.

You can use a power tool in your work, which simplifies the attachment of a particular part to the body.

Repeated parts of the future product must be symmetrical to each other, otherwise misalignment is likely.

Select fasteners after you have decided on the base material. Try to purchase reliable connecting parts. They should be purchased with a reserve so that if they fail, they can be easily restored.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces.

Main assembly steps

Before making furniture, prepare a drawing of the future product. It is necessary to once again check the dimensions of the cabinet schematically marked on paper with the proportions of the prepared parts.

1. Mark the extra centimeters of chipboard panels using a simple pencil, saw along the lines with a wood saw, clean the edges and seal them with an edge.
2. Attach the side, bottom and top panels to the rear panel using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
3. Before hanging the doors, mark the locations for the hinges. If the sashes are heavy, increase the number of fasteners, otherwise over time the panels may warp under their own weight. The distance from the edge to the bottom and top loops should not be less than 12-13 cm.
4. Fasten the hinges and check the operation of the doors. They should fit tightly, without gaps or displacements. Don't forget to embed the mini-lock.
5. For cabinet with sliding doors should be selected roller mechanism, which will be located at the top and bottom of the panels. Most often, aluminum elements are used for this.
6. If legs are intended, then they need to be made before hanging the doors. After assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands is completed, check the stability of the structure, how level the cabinet is and whether it “sinks” to one side or another.
7. Using self-tapping screws and strips, make supports for the shelves. The latter are adjusted to size after assembling the cabinet body. Special holders are sold for glass shelves that will not damage the base.
8. It is better to equip drawers (if any) with guides, then they will slide out easily and freely, without the possibility of warping and getting stuck.

The selected material - chipboard, chipboard or solid wood panels - must be properly processed

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners. The material requires accuracy and precision in outlines and actions.

Drying time is required after each coat is applied.

Furniture fittings

The choice of fittings for cabinet furniture is a moment no less important than the assembly itself.

Cabinet hinges	Poorly selected loops can negate the results of your efforts.
Hinge mechanism with four hinges	Today this detail is being used more and more often. Adjustment is carried out both at the fastening stage and after completion of the installation work.
Drawer guides	You can take roller or ball ones.
Handles for drawer lids and cabinet doors	They need to be matched to each other. They may differ in style - it is important to adhere to a single design for the facade or for internal filling. For children's cabinets or chests of drawers, it is recommended to choose streamlined handles so that the child does not get hurt while moving or playing.

Any material you are going to use must be of high quality and well dried.

Furniture finishing

If desired, you can improve the appearance with original inserts. It can be mirror panels, dividers, various drawings or stencils, ornament. Spot lighting is also a practical addition. In addition, it looks quite stylish, especially if there are glass or frosted inserts.

When installing furniture, make sure that it is not exposed to direct sunlight.

Using natural wood It is recommended to cover it with a varnish composition. Finding the right shade is not difficult. To fix, apply the coating two or three times, then the surface will look smooth and even. Drying time is required after each coat is applied. This will make the surface resistant to abrasion and fading. The panels should be coated before assembly, not after, to avoid smudges.

Repeated parts of the future product must be symmetrical to each other, otherwise misalignment is likely

The popular design with craquelure varnish makes the facade of the cabinet look original and expensive.

With the help of decoration, you can not only add style to a new piece of furniture, but also elevate an old product.

Advice: When installing furniture, make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on it. This will avoid fading of surfaces and drying out of the wooden base.

To create cabinet furniture, you can choose inexpensive parts or use materials available in the house.

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