IN country house the space under the roof is often usable area and is actively used, so a do-it-yourself attic ladder with a hatch would be useful.

Types of stairs to access the attic

Stairs have always been used to communicate between floors, and the last, highest level - the attic or attic - is no exception. The ascent to the under-roof premises can be included in a single marching complex, that is, the ceiling located below will serve as a platform for the next flight of stairs. But access to the attic can be organized in two ways - through a door with small area, where you can climb the steps from the residential floor, or through the hatch, directly to the upper floor.

Now let's talk about the design of the staircase itself. It can be stationary with steps, or lowered directly into the hatch, being attached to its cover. The second option is more compact, but more difficult to implement, while the first requires a significant area, even for. Separately, it is worth mentioning the folding ladder with rungs, which is mounted on the wall when not needed. The most practical are the movable models: folding, telescopic, sliding and scissor.

Often, when looking for information about folding models, you can find mention of sectional, hinged, folding stairs. All this different variants of the same type - folding, since this is precisely the principle of operation of the design. We do not confuse sectional folding models with spans of the same type, but with bowstrings as the basis. The latter are ordinary steps mounted on flat bars, which are called bowstrings, one of which is rigidly fixed to the wall, and the second rises on the hinges of the steps.

Folding ladder - design features

First, let's look at folding models that are made of both metal (aluminum, stainless steel), and from wood in combination with steel parts. Regardless of the height of the ceiling, even if you can reach it with your hand, a folding staircase to the attic will always consist of at least 3 sections, both purchased and made by yourself; drawings rarely differ in this regard.

The fact is that the supports of the lower section must rest against the floor, and if you make only 2 long elbows, the attic hatch will have to be greatly extended in length. This, in turn, will take away some of the usable attic space. When taking into account its inclination to the floor, it is never installed strictly vertically. Accordingly, the lid should tilt down not at a straight line, but at an acute angle of about 70-75 degrees. In this case, the hinge between the two upper sections becomes the center of the arc that the folding elbow describes, and therefore the hatch must be such that the lower part of the second section does not touch its edge.

The line between the supports resting on the floor is 20-30 centimeters further than the edge of the attic opening, which provides a fairly comfortable angle for the staircase. The last factor also applies to telescopic or scissor structures. The uppermost section of the folding model is usually fixed directly to the hatch cover so that opening it simultaneously begins to feed the folded sections down.

Therefore, the hangers holding the sash must be strong enough; they are best selected based on a load of 150 kilograms. A do-it-yourself attic ladder should be made with a large margin of safety if it will be actively used with frequent visits to the attic, preferably made of metal. An exception may be steps; they can be made of wood so as not to make the structure too heavy. The sections are connected by conventional one-piece hinges or lever hinges.

Telescopic attic ladder - buy or make it yourself?

Telescopic retractable sections seem to be a very complex device to manufacture at home, and many people buy ready-made ones along with the attic hatch. However, you can get by with only purchasing retractable ladder, which is often found in construction stores next to the tools. Her distinguishing feature– aluminum sections and plastic elements for fastening the crossbars.

Such a ladder to the attic is mounted with your own hands on the hatch, with the thinnest part above the hinges of the lid that folds down. It will not be possible to firmly fasten it to the latter due to the fact that the telescopic bends are quite short, and fixing at least one, in addition to the top one, will prevent the ladder from extending.

Before you make and install such an attic ladder with your own hands, you need to carefully measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling of the upper residential floor. If the fully extended knees are too long even with the structure in an inclined position, 1-2 upper sections can be rigidly fixed to the hatch in a half-extended or folded position. It is worse if the supports of the ladder do not reach the floor, in which case you will have to attach it to lowering hangers without mounting it to the edge of the hatch opening, the cover of which will be held by separate levers.

When independently assembling a mechanism for lowering the entire structure down, it is better to fix the hangers on the staircase racks using steel clamps, possibly with a through bolt fixation to the support. Maintain downward position telescopic ladder Can be either purchased crank arms or regular cables. For the hatch cover, in addition to hangers, you will need springs, which, in addition to holding it in the closed position, will allow you to lift it without special effort. However, the upper retractable sections of the stairs can also be equipped with such springs (even blocks, which will be discussed later, are used for such an operation).

Sliding sectional structure for access to the attic

Many people believe that a retractable telescopic ladder to the attic is identical sliding model, however, the difference between them is quite significant when made with your own hands. If in the first version, sections the length of a rack segment between two crossbars extend one from the other, then in the second case they consist of 5-6 steps and slide one along the other along external guides.

In other words, the telescopic design is more compact, but the sliding one is easier to make yourself. After all, it is easier to assemble sections moving on a skid than to select pipe sections different diameters, not to mention fixing these segments so that they do not fall apart when pulled out. As for the assembly of sliding stairs, they can be different. The simplest option is that all sections are the same size and laid one on top of the other, connected on a slide with rollers.

Another type - the lower sections are narrower than the upper ones and are located one inside the other, according to the principle of a fire escape. In this case, the supports of the upper knee should be wider than the lower one so that the section easily fits on top of the crossbars, while the slides are located with inside racks, and the rollers are on the outside. For such a model, the uppermost elbow, regardless of the type of structure, must be rigidly fixed to the hatch cover, equipped with strong hangers and springs.

Scissor attic ladder – advanced technology

This option is perhaps the most interesting, since it makes it possible to climb into the under-roof rooms along full-fledged flat steps of sufficient width to comfortably place the sole of your foot. At the same time, the ladder folds as compactly as a telescopic one. This design has one undeniable advantage: if you attach a spring to at least one section, pulling it up into the hatch, the tension element will fold all the elbows, which are interconnected levers.

The whole structure resembles several dozen scissors, which are hinged in pairs by rings and the tips of the knives. The steps are always mounted at the intersection points of the metal strips, where the screw is located on the scissors. At the same time, they are rigidly fixed in relation to the axes, which have rotation restrictions. It is not difficult to make such attic stairs with your own hands; you just need to have 100 metal strips, preferably made of durable stainless steel, for 25 steps.

Each 2 strips are connected with a bolt exactly in the center, and then the resulting elements in the shape of the letter X are movably attached to each other using short bushings. The steps are installed on the crosshairs. At the same time, to prevent them from swinging, you need to either hang them a little lower at the corners, or make limiting projections on opposite metal strips.

Attention - when folding the scissor sections, be careful not to get your fingers caught between the slats.

Folding ladder mounted on the wall

There are 2 possible ways to make a staircase to the attic. At the very beginning we mentioned that two-section folding stairs impractical if the hatch is small. However, such a model can be mounted on the wall if the opening is located at the edge of the ceiling. In this case, we make 2 sections, short and long, and fasten the second one under the hatch itself, with loops on a thick beam attached to top point walls. The second elbow is made longer than the remaining distance to the floor, and is screwed onto hinges at the bottom of the beams of the first, so that in the folded position it is between the wall and the long section.

Another do-it-yourself folding attic ladder is made on inclined strings with full steps instead of rungs. One board is rigidly fixed to the wall, as we already mentioned above. Loops are screwed to it for mounting movable treads, to which, in turn, we also attach a second string on hinges, even with railings on rod balusters. In the upper part, under the opening, we place emphasis for the lowering bowstring board. In order for the entire structure to be kept in the tilted up position, it must be hooked to a metal loop specially attached to the wall.

For country cottages, private houses and simple country houses, equipped with an attic, the presence of a convenient and reliable staircase leading to the mentioned room is a common necessity of life.

At the same time, the staircase does not have to be capital and bulky at all - you can assemble and install an excellent folding structure, which will be in no way inferior to stationary stairs.

You can complete all the related tasks yourself, saving money and testing your own strength.

There are several types of stairs that can be installed to access your attic.

Stationary

A staircase with wide flights and railings is the most reliable, durable and easy-to-use design. However, the possibility of arranging such a staircase is not available everywhere - it certainly cannot be equipped in small areas.

Portable

They are used primarily as a temporary option, as well as for access to rarely used rooms. The main disadvantages of such a ladder are low safety and ease of use. Therefore, if possible, the use of such a design should be abandoned.

Folding

They are something between portable and stationary ladders. In terms of ease of use and safety, they are almost in no way inferior to full-fledged ones. stationary structures and have, at the same time, a significant advantage - they require very little space for their arrangement. Therefore, when making a staircase yourself, it is recommended to give preference to a folding structure.

Selection of materials

No less important point is the choice of materials from which the stairs to the attic will be assembled. Wood is usually used to make the main elements of folding sectional stairs, and fasteners are traditionally made of metal.

Currently there are many various materials, types of controls and fasteners, which makes it possible to easily assemble a folding ladder that will best suit your specific room.

When choosing manufacturing materials attic stairs There are a number of important factors to consider. First of all, decide on the functional purpose of the structure, its type, width, and optimal quantity sections.

The functional purpose of the stairs to the attic is very important in terms of determining the maximum permissible load on the steps. So, for example, factory-made wooden stairs can withstand an average load of 150 kgf, metal ones - 250 kgf. For homemade stairs, these figures are slightly reduced.

This does not mean that the steps will not be able to withstand a higher load, but it is definitely not worth loading them regularly, otherwise the structure will break very quickly.

The width of the stairs should not be greater than the width of the attic opening.

When choosing the dimensions of the attic ladder, be guided by proven and approved standards.

Remember: the steps must be installed strictly parallel to the floor surface. In addition, the steps of the stairs must be non-slip. To do this, you can stuff linings of any non-slip material over the base material.

Guide to making a staircase to the attic

There is nothing overly complicated about making your own stairs to the attic. Of course, an inexperienced craftsman is unlikely to be able to assemble a structure with the same attractive appearance as factory-made models, but it’s definitely worth a try.

Before starting work, create a drawing of the future staircase. If you do not have the necessary skills, order the creation of a drawing from a specialist, or select a suitable diagram from the options presented in open sources.

Tools

Prepare all the necessary tools immediately so as not to be distracted by searching for missing tools in the future.

You will need:

Also, before starting work, you need to buy or assemble an ordinary ladder. To assemble this design yourself, you only need to fix the transverse steps between two long vertical posts and further strengthen the structure.

The finished staircase should be approximately 30 cm longer than the distance from the level of the opening to the attic to the floor.

You can also easily handle making a hatch with your own hands. The only materials you need are sheets of plywood and wooden beam 5x5 cm.

First step. Choose a location to place the hatch and determine its optimal dimensions. Add approximately 7-9 mm on each side to the dimensions of the hatch so that in the future you can easily close the lid without squeaks or other noise. Make the opening according to the specific dimensions.

Second step. Cut the wooden beam into four parts in accordance with the dimensions of the hatch.

Third step. Make grooves at the ends of the bars. Lubricate the prepared grooves and connect the bars into a rectangular (square) structure. Additionally strengthen the connections using self-tapping screws. Screw the gussets so that the diagonal does not move.

Fourth step. Attach the plywood cover to the resulting base and try on the product in the hatch opening.

Fifth step. Install a regular latch into the hatch cover. You will open the latch using a handle. Attach it to the lid and finally fix the product in the pre-aligned opening. Usually loops are used for this.

Simple folding ladder

Start making a folding ladder. It is assumed that you already have at your disposal the previously mentioned wooden extension ladder.

First step. Attach the width of the beam to the bottom of the ladder. Attach the same block to the top of the product. In this case, the lower bar must be fixed rigidly, and the upper one - on the hinges.

Second step. Saw the ladder into 2 parts. Top part should have a length of about 2/3 of the total length of the stairs.

Third step. Attach a pair of slats to provide additional diagonal rigidity.

Fourth step. Connect the parts of the structure using loops.

Fifth step. Secure the top beam under the hatch using anchors.

Sixth step. Secure the bottom of the ladder with a hook - this will prevent it from opening spontaneously. Place the loop on the stringer above the cutting line.

Seventh step. Hold it down finished design to the wall surface and secure.

The main disadvantage of such a homemade staircase is that it is not very attractive appearance– the entire timber and fastening elements remain visible. However, such a staircase copes 100% with the main tasks - ensuring a convenient and safe ascent and return descent.

An improved and more attractive version of the previous design. There is also nothing complicated in making such a staircase; it is enough to follow all the instructions step by step.

First step. Share a regular sideboard wooden stairs into 3 parts. Make the first part to size attic hatch, make the second a little smaller than the first, and the third so that the remaining space to the floor surface is completely covered.

Second step. Take a small tool and measure the corner of the attic hatch. Transfer the angle to the boards, thus marking the location of the steps.

Third step. Drill holes where the hinges will be located between the individual stair sections.

Fourth step. Sand the edges of the structures.

Fifth step. Saw the boards at the hinge points.

Sixth step. Cut and sand the steps.

Seventh step. Prepare indentations for the steps in the strings.

Eighth step. Insert the steps into the prepared recesses. Use glue and further strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws.

Ninth step. Connect the sections of the stairs using special loops. To do this, the sections must be placed on a stable flat surface.

Tenth step. Check the operation of all sections. If you find any defects or deviations, try to correct them immediately.

Eleventh step. Sand everything down wooden surfaces and coat them with varnish.

Twelfth step. After completely dry varnish, install the structure in the attic hatch opening. If necessary, make final adjustments to the structural elements.

Thus, self-assembly stairs is extremely simple and accessible to almost every event. At the same time, the cost of a homemade staircase will be much lower compared to the price of a similar factory-made design. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself staircase to the basement.

Video - Do-it-yourself staircase to the attic

This article provides step-by-step instruction on creating a folding attic ladder. You will learn how to correctly assemble the main hinge element, what to make sections of the stairs from and how to securely fasten the structure in installation position. The article contains diagrams and drawings.

An inventory factory staircase to the attic is a fairly common product that can be purchased at many hardware stores. However budget options They are not always reliable, but strong branded products cost accordingly. Making a necessary item or device with your own hands from scrap materials is very popular among home craftsmen. The attic staircase is no exception.

Material for work

To assemble an analogue of a factory product, you will need quality materials, which may be available, especially during construction:

1. Bar 50x50 (pine) 1st grade - 20 linear. m. The frame of the lid and opening will be made from it.
2. Plywood 8-10 mm - 2 sq. m. Needed for covering the lid.
3. Board 100x25-30 mm - 15 linear. m. Will go on steps and bowstrings.
4. Steel strip 3-4x20 mm - for movable fastening of knees.
5. Angle and plate 3-4 mm - for the main mechanical element.
6. Bolts, nuts, washers, bolts M12-M14.
7. Self-tapping screws.

Tool:

1. Plotnitsky - saw, screwdriver, protractor.
2. Locksmith - welding machine, electrodes 3-4, grinder.
3. Workbench and clamps.

Operating procedure

First of all, you need to choose a place for the stairs and make an opening. If necessary, trim and install intermediate beams in the ceiling - by 6-7 mm larger size proposed cover. Next, according to the size of the hatch, you need to assemble the cover itself - from a block and plywood. The design can be arbitrary, but it must be reliable (it is better to glue the connections). The block on one of the short sides should be rounded so as not to interfere with the lid opening.

Assembling the hinge mechanism

This is the most critical element of the design. To make it you will need: a steel corner, a plate and strips with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The shape of the parts is clear from the diagram, but the dimensions of the drilling site should be determined individually, based on the local situation. Manufactured parts must be of high quality; they must be cleaned and edges processed.

1 - thrust plate; 2 - corner, top view; 3 - short slide; 4 - long drawstring

The key point is determining the opening angle. This angle is very important and figures into the production of the plate. In order to set it correctly, project the future march on the ground - stretch the thread and set it experimentally (by selecting the best position) desired angle. Securely attach it to the protractor - it will be needed when making steps.

The resulting angle must be transferred to the part, namely to the plate. To do this, set the mechanism to its original position, attach the inclinometer and move until the corners of the corner flange and the inclinometer coincide. Then mark the plate along the resulting trajectory and cut out the area where the part moves.

Holes should be pre-drilled in the plate for mounting to the beam. We assemble the mechanism with bolts and washers.

After rough assembly, you need to try the unit in place, attach it and accurately reproduce the procedure for opening and closing the hatch. If any movement defects are found, correct them.

Then you need to make a response mechanism. It should completely repeat the first one, but in mirror image. Use clamps and a workbench - by clamping the parts together, you will achieve complete identical dimensions.

Make adjustments experimentally and final installation. Cover in open position should exactly follow the angle projected by the cord.

Manufacturing of sections

Calculation of the length of each section:

• 1st - opening length minus 10%
• 2nd - length of the first minus 10%
• 3rd - march length minus the sum of the first two

Let's assume that the flight length is 2500 mm. Based on the opening length of 1200 mm:

• 1st - 1080 mm
• 2nd - 972 mm
• 3rd - 448 mm

We mark the entire boards according to the calculation and transfer the angle of the march to the bowstrings.

Attention! Bowstrings must be installed in a mirror manner! Take this into account when marking and drilling.

At the joints of the sections we drill holes Ø 25 - mirror through one.

All parts must be processed with high quality sanding belt, chamfers must be rounded in order to bring the quality as close as possible to the factory one.

Then we cut grooves for the steps according to the markings. We select wood with a chisel.

The design of individual sections is assembled using 65 mm self-tapping screws with a press washer using D-3 wood glue.

The hinges for the knees can be made from the same strip as the opening mechanism. To do this, cut 4 strips of 160 mm and 4 of 120 mm, rounding the ends. We weld legs to four of them to a length of 160 mm with a hole of 8 mm. You should end up with 8 pieces of equal length, but 4 of them with a step.

Assemble the individual plates into hinges using bolts.

Assembly of sections and installation of stairs

Lay it out on a flat surface and install the finished sectional hinges so that the fastening bolts fit into the holes in the wood. Install the hinges with M8-10 bolts.

After assembling the first bend, check the system for functionality. If necessary, correct any distortions.

Then attach the lower short elbow and test the system.

Now all that remains is to mount the ladder in its designed position - on the manhole cover. For installation, use bolts (self-tapping screws are not reliable). If after installation and testing everything works without distortions, the structure can be dismantled for painting. Use varnishes and spray paint for metal.

Subsequently, the design can be complicated and made more convenient by adding to it:

1. Additional hinges to eliminate play.
2. A spring to support the structure to make opening easier.
3. Locking lock.
4. Handrails.
5. Use decorative finishing and additional insulation.

Finished view of the staircase:

The issue of finishing and insulation is decided locally, based on needs. The lid can be finished with any material that fits into the ceiling. Basically it is plastic - lightweight, inexpensive and has an additional layer of air. The difference in price between the “home” and “store” versions of a folding ladder is about 90% (80-150 USD). The work required only a few new boards, covering them and hardware.

But how do you get into a well-appointed attic? It is almost impossible to do this without a ladder.

Nai the best option for a convenient and safe climb to the attic - an original attic ladder. It can be located outside the room or inside - whichever is more convenient and expedient for the owners.

But it should be noted that using the internal staircase is somewhat more convenient: to go up to the attic, you don’t have to go outside, where the weather conditions are not always excellent.

WITH There are many types of attic stairs, including:

A)
stationary stairs :

• screw.

b) portable ladders:

• attached,
• stepladders

c) folding stairs:

• scissor,
• sliding or telescopic,
• lever or folding,
• folding

How to make a choice?

It is worth considering that the use stationary stairs strictly limited by the impossibility of their use in small areas.

Stationary attic stairs with wide flights, equipped with railings, however, are recognized as the most comfortable.

Folding stairs They represent a kind of transitional link between portable and stationary. They are almost as comfortable as the latter, but they do not require as much space. Their security level is much higher than that of mobile devices.

The choice must be wise and depend on several important factors:

Portable structures are deservedly considered a temporary option, which is usually used to get into a rarely used room.

The main disadvantage of a portable device is the low degree of security.

Attic staircase

Dimensions and standards

When arranging it, it is important to take into account the list of standards that any attic staircase must comply with:

1). Its height should not be more than 3.5 m.
As this indicator increases, the rigidity of the entire structure decreases noticeably. In addition, falling from such a height is much more dangerous.

2). The width of a standard march should be on average from 65 to 110 cm.

3). It is advisable that there are no more than fifteen steps.

4). The distance between individual steps can be about 19 cm.

5). The steps have a thickness of 18-22 mm.

6). If the ladder is folding, then the minimum load it can withstand should be 150 kg.

7). The traditional angle of inclination of the structure is 60-75 degrees.
A larger angle becomes dangerous for operation, and a small one will require more area.

The steps should not slide.
Their location must be parallel to the floor plane.

DIY process

Build with my own hands such a device is not as complicated as it might seem.

Of course, it is unlikely that you will get an attic staircase from the official website that is beautiful and sophisticated.

But it's worth a try!

The drawings of stairs necessary for work can easily be found on the Internet. They are there for every taste.

The attic hatch is an important basis for any staircase.

It’s easy to do it with your own hands, using 50 by 50 mm bars.

What will be the procedure?

Materials and tools

To make an attic ladder yourself, you will need a whole list necessary:

• wood hacksaw;
• with a set or set of screwdrivers;
• with foam;
• roulette;
• different size anchors and screws;
• bars 20-30 cm thick;
• card loops.

In addition, you will need the usual ladder(already finished) with a length 30 cm greater than the height to the level of the opening.

Attic ladder of two sections

Design

We take a pre-prepared wooden ladder the right size. At the bottom and top of it we fix a couple of bars along the width: the bottom one is rigid, and the top one is hinged. Having measured two-thirds of its entire length, we cut the ladder with a hacksaw. We get two parts of the structure: the lower one will be shorter, and the upper one will be longer.

We fix a pair of slats diagonally to ensure rigidity. Using loops we connect the existing parts. We secure the upper block under the hatch with anchor bolts. We fix the lower part with a hook so that it does not open on its own. There is a loop on the stringer, above the cut point. The finished folding ladder is fixed to the wall surface.

We got a pretty comfortable one. Its main disadvantage can be considered its unfinished appearance - all the bars and fasteners are visible. But our device will perform its functions properly, and will completely solve the problem of going up to the attic and coming down from there.

Installing the folding device

The folding device will be made on bowstrings.

Let's consider step-by-step production such a device:

1. We divide the height we have into three parts. The very first corresponds to the size of the hatch, the second will be slightly smaller, the remaining third will be equal to the remaining distance to the floor;
2. using a small tool we measure the angle of the hatch we need;
3. we transfer the indicators of this angle to the boards, thereby marking the steps;
4. the sections will be connected by hinges: we make holes in their place;
5. We polish all edges well;
6. in the places marked for hinges, we cut the boards;
7. we cut the steps and sand them;
8. in the bowstrings we cut out notches to size for the steps;
9. we insert steps into them, fastening them with glue and reinforcing them with self-tapping screws;
10. We place the sections on a flat surface and connect them together with special loops;
11. we check the operation of each section separately;
12. we install the assembled structure into the opening;
13. if required, we make final adjustments to individual parts;
14. we disassemble the resulting structure into individual elements;
15. We process every detail - grind and ;
16. wait for it to dry completely, reassemble it, and start using it.

It is preferable to do all work that is performed at a significant height with a partner. This will speed up the work process and will also help avoid various traumatic situations.

Be that as it may, the price of an attic ladder made independently is significantly lower than the cost of a purchased factory design.

Therefore, if it is important enough for you financial issue activities - try to do it yourself.

In most private houses, attics and attics are used rooms. And to get to ground floor Of course, you need a ladder.

Types of attic stairs - design and types of construction

Attic stairs can be located both outside and inside the building. The advantage of the second option is ease of use. You don't have to go outside to get into the attic, which is... winter time year is very relevant. In addition, in the absence of access to the street, the attic space does not come into contact with cold air, which significantly reduces heat loss.

Based on the type of construction, the following types of attic stairs are distinguished:

1. Monolithic:
   • screw;
   • marching.
2. Folding attic stairs:
   • scissor;
   • folding or lever;
   • telescopic or sliding stairs;
   • folding
3. Portable:
   • stepladders;
   • attached.

Portable stairs are usually used as a temporary option for connecting floors. Used during the construction of a house or for access to attic spaces, which are used extremely rarely. They are not safe.

The most convenient, of course, are traditional monolithic stairs, with a wide march and railings. But it is not always possible to place a massive structure leading to the attic - there may simply not be enough space.

In this case the best option there will be retractable attic stairs. They are quite convenient and safe, easy to use and take up very little space. A wide variety of designs will allow you to choose the option that suits you.

Folding transformable ladder

Attic folding stairs are made of wood and metal (aluminum). The combination of these materials gives top scores. Made from wood flight of stairs, to reduce the weight of the structure, and metal - springs, mechanisms and fasteners that ensure the rigidity of the product. Of course, there are also purely metal models.

For wooden models, hardwood should be used. The thickness of the timber should be at least 2 cm. Wood should not be used when the folding staircase is used too intensively, because this leads to rapid wear. In this case, the best option is a metal attic ladder.

Also used plastic fittings, preventing friction of components during transformation and sealing the opening when the product is folded. The hatch cover is filled with polystyrene foam and provides good thermal insulation.

Folding attic ladders can be opened either manually or automatically using an electric drive. Often, when manual drive a weight is attached to the mechanism, which significantly facilitates the assembly process, as if pulling the ladder into a niche and, conversely, smoothly lowers it, compensating for the weight of the product.

The main requirements for such products are compact size and strength. The aesthetics of the model is also important - a good transforming staircase should blend with the ceiling.

Standard sizes of attic stairs:

• width of the flight of stairs. The optimal width is about 65 cm;
• height of the stairs. It is not recommended to use a product with a height of more than three and a half meters, because then the rigidity of the structure suffers, and a fall from such a height can lead to serious injury. The process of lowering or raising it will also be inconvenient. In this case, you will still have to opt for a monolithic staircase;
• number of steps. Usually equal to 14 or 15;
• distance between steps. It is believed that optimal width the step is 19.3 cm. With a larger or smaller value, the stairs will be inconvenient to use;
• the thickness of the steps ranges from 18 to 22 mm;
• angle of inclination of the stairs. Standard value It is generally accepted that the value is from 60 to 75 degrees. If the slope is greater, it will be dangerous to use the ladder; if it is less inclined, the product will take up too much space;
• the folding attic ladder must withstand a weight of at least 150 kg;
• The steps should be parallel to the floor and not slip, or anti-slip pads should be glued to the steps.

When purchasing folding attic ladders, you must take into account that the parameters of the product must match the dimensions of the hatch cover, otherwise the folding parts will touch the opening. A hatch with a built-in sliding ladder 70 cm wide and 120 cm long is considered optimal. With a smaller opening, it is inconvenient to climb. If the hatch dimensions are too large, then large heat losses are possible. Since the attic is unheated room, it is necessary to provide good heat and vapor insulation.

When choosing the angle of inclination of the stairs to the attic, it is important to take into account that the smaller the angle, the larger the dimensions of the attic hatch need to be made and the more space the stairs take up when unfolded.

Sliding attic ladder - retractable flights to the attic

Scissor ladder
As a rule, they are made entirely of metal. They also go by the name “accordion staircase”, which has stuck due to the fact that the structure folds like an accordion. And the transformation mechanism resembles an expanding tram current collector and is shaped like a parallelogram or an oval.

The retractable staircase to the attic has one drawback inherent in cheap models. Due to the fact that the structure is entirely made of metal, if the assembly is poor or over time, the flight of stairs begins to creak. This can be avoided by periodically lubricating the extension ladder.

Telescopic ladders

The telescopic ladder consists of many retractable sections that fold into one another. It is made of aluminum, which helps to lighten the structure and impart rigidity. In the domestic market, sliding attic stairs are quite rare and are not very popular.

Folding staircase to the attic - sectional and hinged

Folding stairs can consist of two, three or four sections depending on the design. The first elbow has a length equal to the dimensions of the hatch cover and is rigidly fixed to it. The other two segments open up to form a smooth flight of stairs. Sectional stairs are so mobile thanks to special hinges and hinges.

Reclining ladder

If you really love order, suffer from a lack of space, and you have a second floor or attic, folding ladder can be a great option to meet all your needs at once. The idea is this: most of the time the structure is folded and fixed to the wall, and only in the evening, when you need to go up to the bedroom, do you pull it out.

The steps are secured to the string using card loops. When folded, the structure is fixed on the wall. The reclining design is not in great demand due to its complexity, but later in the article we will still tell you how to make it yourself.

DIY attic folding stairs

Option No. 1 - simple design of 2 sections

Do-it-yourself attic stairs are made within 2-3 hours. To make an attic staircase we will need:

• hacksaw for woodworking;
• tape measure;
• a staircase whose height will be approximately 30 cm greater than the distance to the ceiling;
• four card loops the width of a stringer;
• two bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the hatch, and two more bars, approximately 20 cm longer than the first ones. The thickness of the bars is 2-3 cm;
• screws, anchors, hook and eye.

We attach one of the short bars to the upper end of the stairs using hinges, the other is rigidly fixed to the lower part. Two slats are attached to the flight of stairs diagonally so that they do not interfere with movement. They will give rigidity to the entire structure.

Next, measure 2/3 of the length of the stairs and make a neat cut. Then we connect both parts using loops. It is important to attach the hinges right side so that the ladder folds into in the right direction as shown in the photo.

The top bar is fixed to the wall immediately below the hatch. To prevent the folding ladder to the attic from opening, it is secured to the wall with a hook. The loop is screwed into the stringer next to the cut point, and the hook is attached to the wall.

The disadvantage of this model is that it remains in plain sight. This can be avoided by using the product more complex design, in which the sections are attached to the hatch cover. Let's see if it is possible to make such an attic ladder with your own hands.

Option No. 2 - hatch to the attic with a ladder

We will tell you how to make a staircase to the attic, consisting of 3 sections, which is identical in design to those sold in stores. This is the kind of folding attic ladder we should be able to achieve.

How to make a hatch to the attic with your own hands - the basis of a folding ladder

You can make a hatch to the attic using available materials. First, let's decide on the location and size of the opening, and then we'll make the hatch. Let's say the size of the staircase opening is 125 by 70 cm. Then, to cut out the hatch, you should add 7-8 mm to these dimensions on each side. These gaps will allow the lid to close easily, but will not affect the thermal insulation.

Materials you will need:

• four bars 50x50 mm - two short and two long;
• 10mm plywood sheet (in our case, two panels are used - unfortunately, we didn’t have a whole sheet at hand).

At the ends of the bars we make cuts of half the thickness, coat them with glue and secure them with self-tapping screws, having first checked the diagonals. To prevent the diagonal from disappearing, temporary gussets made of 4 mm plywood should be used. Afterwards, we remove them and screw on a sheet of 10 mm plywood (the photo shows how the sheet is secured around the perimeter with PSh self-tapping screws). Next we try it on in the opening.

To ensure that the hatch closes well and there are no locks on the outside, we cut a door latch into the lid. Our packaging said “reinforced.” To open the latch, we will use an old handle (any cylinder-shaped device can be used), which is inserted into a special hole. The latch holds the hatch well, very convenient.

The mechanism of the attic ladder with a hatch is hinged without a spring

Now it's time for the most difficult part - the opening mechanisms. All the components, of course, can be bought in the store, but we will go the hard way and do everything ourselves.

First, let's draw a drawing of the attic staircase on cardboard with the approximate angle at which the hatch should open. Let's cut out the cardboard parts and try them on the structure. This way you can quite accurately select the length of the hinges.

I think everyone has iron corners, scraps of strips and pieces in their garage sheet metal, in general, everything that can be used to make a mechanism for a ladder. For one mechanism we need:

• one corner;
• piece of sheet metal;
• two strips of different lengths.

Let's mark the holes for the hinges, the distances of which we previously estimated experimentally, and drill them for an M10 bolt. We put it together without tightening the bolts too much. Using a small tool, we measure the desired opening angle of the hatch and expand the future mechanism to the selected angle. We mark on the metal the area that, when opened, overlaps the corner and cut it out using a jigsaw.

We bring the metal strips into proper shape by cutting off the excess length and rounding the ends. This way they won’t touch the corner and interfere with each other. We reassemble the entire mechanism. After we removed part of the metal, the corner began to rest and lock in the desired position.

So, one mechanism is ready, now we begin to manufacture the second. It is very important that it turns out exactly the same, but in a mirrored design. To do this, we fasten each pair of parts with clamps and drill the necessary holes.

After one hole is cut, insert a bolt into it and drill the second.

Then, screwing both parts together with bolts, we align them in length.

This is how we make all the parts.

The output should be two completely identical mechanisms.

Now let's install the mechanisms on the hatch and try it on in the stairwell. It turned out that even when designing the unit, we made a mistake - we did not take into account the height of the fastening on the floor beam. That is, the part simply crawled out of the ceiling. Because of this, we had to install temporary bars.

We adjust the hatch so that it opens well and does not touch the walls of the opening.

Now we will make another simple mechanism to support the entire structure. We will need two strips of metal 20 mm wide and a corner. To do this, we weld a piece of metal to the end of one of the strips, against which the second strip will rest. We make a support platform from the corner.

The result should be a hinge that, when the hatch is opened, remains slightly bent and at the same time holds the load. Subsequently, this unit will need to be installed in such a way that it is completely expanded when the mechanisms made earlier are open to the maximum. Then the load created by the articulated ladder will be equally distributed between them.

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase on bowstrings

The staircase to the attic is built with your own hands from wooden planks. We will cut the string and steps from an inch board 100 mm wide. The length of the first section is made according to the size of the hatch, the second is the same or slightly smaller than the first, but taking into account the fact that it should not touch the ceiling during the transformation process. The third section is equal to the distance remaining to the floor.

Using a small tool, we measure the angle of inclination of the hatch in the open position and transfer it to the board, thereby marking the steps. Next, mark the lengths of the sections.

Pressing the boards tightly together and securing them with masking tape, we transfer all the markings to the second board (the lines should be in mirror image). Using a 25mm pen, we drill a hole where the hinge hinge will subsequently be located.

Now attention, we made the mistake of drilling both holes on one side because the second hole should be on outside boards, as noted in the photo.

For more aesthetically pleasing We sand all the edges with a router.

On the strings of the stairs we make small recesses (5 mm) for the steps. Using glue and PSh self-tapping screws, we assemble all the parts together. It should look something like the photo.