Despite the fact that covering a roof with metal tiles with your own hands is quite difficult, and the work requires special care, it is quite possible to complete them without outside help.
Construction of a rafter system with an insulated attic
Since the mass of a metal roof is quite large, the rafter system under it must withstand significant pressure. For rafter beams Beams with dimensions from 100x50 to 150x50mm with wood moisture content within 22% are taken.
The pitch between them is selected from 60 to 90 cm. If the system was originally built for a different roof and the pitch between the beams is higher than specified, reinforcing sheathing is placed across the beams.
Installation of roofing films, sheathing and eaves strips must be carried out with extreme caution, carefully selecting materials. The strength and durability of the roof itself depends on the correct construction of the roofing “pie”. It includes not only the rafter skeleton, but also a thermal and moisture protection system.
Vapor barrier and insulation
A vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the rafters using stainless steel staples or nails. It prevents the internal moisture of the house from reaching the loose layer of insulating material. Insulation, for example, VAL-FLAX (Teplolen), is laid on top of the vapor barrier film, between the rafters.
Waterproofing is laid on top of it, retaining water but allowing water vapor to pass through.
Features of waterproofing installation
The waterproofing is rolled out horizontally, parallel to the cornice, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. The amount of overlap is 150-200 mm. The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with wooden counter battens. Their dimensions are 25*50 mm. The planks are stitched with nails or staples. The waterproofing should not be stretched too much, otherwise it will break due to temperature changes in length. The amount of sagging of the canvas is about 10mm.
The roof waterproofing should not touch the insulation. The gap between it and the waterproofing membrane is 3-5 mm. This design allows moisture to flow freely down the membrane, straight into the gutter.
Sheathing, valley and cornice strip
The sheathing is laid perpendicular to the counterbattens. The outermost lath, installed along the eaves line, should have a height 10-15 mm higher than the others. It serves as a stop for the bottom step of the first row of metal tiles. The bar rests on the protrusion formed by the bottom row of the profile pattern. Thanks to this, the protruding cut of the sheet is located above the gutter.
The second lathing is installed at a distance from the height of the metal tile step profile. It should hit the bottom of the first step. For the second and subsequent battens, a strip from 25x100 to 35x100 mm is taken. The edges of the prepared sheathing are smoothed out, and the hanging ends are cut off.
Installation of cornice strips
The cornice strip is stuffed over the first batten in such a way as to protect the front board from moisture. It is fastened with galvanized nails at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The outlet of the lower edge of the waterproofing is laid loosely on the eaves strip.
Installation of the valley
The valley is a metal V-shaped profile for laying in places where there is an internal break in the connection of roof slopes. The valley protects the joints of the slopes from moisture getting under the roof and onto the insulation layer. Consists of two elements: upper and lower.
The lower one is installed before laying the metal tiles at the fracture site. It is through this element that water flows from the roof into the gutter. The upper valley is installed on top of the tiles and serves for decorative purposes. Both are fastened with self-tapping screws. When screwing the upper valley, you must make sure that the self-tapping screw does not get into the central part of the lower one. The fastening pitch is 300-500 mm.
Roof installation always starts from the bottom row. The best option- if the height of the sheet is equal to or longer than the height of the roof slope. Then the roof surface is covered in one pass, and the number of connecting seams on it is minimal.
Features of the structure of metal tile sheets
The right and left edges of the tiles have different heights profile. This is done for a better fit of the metal when overlapped. The manufacturer always indicates which edge is installed underneath and which edge is installed on top.
- Metal roof tiles are quite heavy, so the sheets are fed upward using ropes along inclined boards. At the same time, it is important not to bend them, so it is better to lift them on two ropes, with four hands, respectively.
- When installing metal tiles with your own hands, fastening is done with roofing self-tapping screws, equipped with sealing polymer gaskets. The color of the screw is matched to the color of the roof. You cannot nail metal tiles with nails - they gradually become loose, the sheet begins to vibrate and collapse in this place.
- The bottom edge of the sheet is installed with a protrusion of 50 mm. Then the moisture flows from the roof directly into the gutter and does not fall on the wall of the building.
- It is recommended to first secure the first two or three sheets to the ridge with one screw. After leveling the bottom line and fitting relative position sheets, they are thoroughly strengthened with screws along the entire length. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower part of the profile wave, and in places of overlap - along the crest.
- 6-8 attachment points are required per square meter of sheet. At the edges, along the roof eaves and at the ridge, fastening is done through a wave. Along the overlap line - under each crossed ridge of the pattern.
End strip
This strip is screwed to the end board. The latter should protrude above the roof sheathing to the height of the profile according to the pattern of the metal sheet. The top and side planks are attached to the end board. At the junction points, the overlap of adjacent elements should be from 7 to 10 millimeters.
The chimney bypass is made of metal to match the color of the roof tiles. Usually the outline is made of 4 elements - right, left, bottom and top. Depending on the design, it can be simple upper or lower.
In the first case, the edge is laid under the tiles. Its design includes a special groove that diverts water to the drain. The places where the apron adheres to the pipe are sealed with a special sealant with high level heat resistance, for example, Loctite, Henkel, Macroflex.
The top edge is laid on top of the roof tiles. The area adjacent to the chimney must also be sealed, as well as the upper part (to prevent water from entering along the tile profile). It is advisable to sew the lining apron to the chimney with metal dowels.
Mounting the ridge strip
The roof ridge strip is important element ventilation of the under-roof space. It protects metal and wooden elements from dampness and is a very important condition for the long service life of the roof. The under-roof air, heated by the heat of the roof, naturally rises from the eaves to the ridge.
There it goes outside through technological ventilation gaps. Manufacturers of metal tiles offer various designs ridge elements and give their recommendations for their installation. The roof ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 300-400 mm along the crests of the sheet profile waves. The overlap of adjacent ridge strips is 7-10 mm.
Bottom line
Work with metal roof tiles is considered one of the most expensive. Therefore, many owners of private houses cover the roof themselves. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof will reward its owners with reliability and many years of trouble-free service.
If you don't decide to self-installation and entrust it to a specialist, the knowledge gained will allow you to control the process and skills of the workers, which as a result can become a guarantee of the quality of your home in the future.
The popularity of metal tiles in the arrangement roofing due to its availability and relatively simple installation technology. Metal roofing has excellent performance characteristics and is suitable for roofs of any configuration. Compliance with all requirements when laying such a coating guarantees its long service life. Correct device metal roofing will provide reliable protection under-roof space and living quarters from precipitation. Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles and roofing accessories provide customers with their products detailed guides And technical instructions on the correct installation of metal roofing. Basic principles installation work identical, however, there are also individual recommendations for specific products. When considering the issue of installing a roof made of metal tiles, you need to decide what the principle of its insulation will be, whether the roof will be cold or warm.
The construction of a metal roof in some aspects depends on the principle of its insulation. There are two main types of roofing – cold and warm. In the first case, we are talking about insulating only the interior of the attic or non-residential floor, despite the fact that outer part Metal tile roofs are not equipped with thermal insulation. In this case, the design of the slopes provides for natural ventilation, which prevents the formation of condensation from temperature differences. A warm roof, unlike a cold one, requires the formation of a multi-layer thermal insulation layer. Design warm roof allows you to equip an attic residential floor, since it thermal insulation qualities will be an order of magnitude higher than a cold roof. The so-called pie of a warm roof made of metal tiles must be formed from a layer of vapor barrier, a thermal insulation material that is laid between the roof joists, and waterproofing membrane, serving as an obstacle to condensate from entering reverse side metal tiles for thermal insulation. The vapor barrier film serves as protection against fumes from the inside of the room. 
Lathing
One of the most critical stages in arranging a metal roof is the formation of the sheathing. The assembly diagram of this structure is essentially the formation of the frame of the future roof, and from it the right equipment and installation depend on the performance of the entire roof.
The installation of a roof for metal tiles can be divided into the following successive stages: - erection of rafters;
- waterproofing film flooring;
- arrangement of counter-lattice;
- sheathing.
- covering with metal tiles.
The sheathing itself is mounted directly on top of the counter-lattice. For its device they use wooden blocks 5x5 cm or 3.2x10 cm. They must be treated with wood antiseptics to protect against rotting, fungus or mold. Required condition is to strengthen the sheathing in the area where the ridge is located. It is ensured by connecting the last two bars. 
The distance between individual sheathing boards, or the so-called pitch, is determined depending on the selected type of metal tile. The instructions for a particular roofing profile contain detailed information about this indicator, as well as the size of the step in the eaves of the roof slope. Thus, for Cascade metal tiles, it is necessary to ensure a sheathing pitch between the first and second bars of 250 mm, between the second and third - 350 mm, and for subsequent ones - 300 mm. When installing Monterrey-type metal tiles, the step between the first and second lathing should be 300 mm, and between subsequent ones 350 mm. Metal tiles of the Elite type provide for a sheathing pitch of 350 mm between the first and second rows and 400 mm between subsequent ones. 
It is also worth paying attention to the fastening of the counter-lattice elements to the rafters. In this case, experts recommend laying a tape made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene between the vertical bars of the counter-lattice and the rafters. Such a gasket is necessary to absorb possible slight deformation of the rafters due to drying out of the wood and subsequent damage to the structure of the counter-lattice and the integrity of the waterproofing layer. All components of the sheathing are fixed with nails. Experts, taking into account practice and personal experience, it is recommended to use galvanized nails. Fastening the sheets of metal tiles begins from the lower right corner of the slope. The first sheet is carefully aligned in all directions and fixed to the sheathing with only one screw in the upper part. Next, another sheet is laid parallel to the fixed one. Both panels are fastened together with self-tapping screws. After this, the sheets are once again carefully aligned along the cornice and finally fixed to the sheathing using screws with rubber gaskets. Further laying is carried out by overlapping part of the new sheet onto the already fixed one. Also, many craftsmen stack sheets from left to right, slipping the next sheet into the lock of the previous one. This way you can achieve more precise joining of sheets in locks.
Endovy
One of the important elements when installing a metal roof is the valley. It represents the internal joint of the roof surfaces in contact with each other. The base for the valley must be formed from a solid surface. For this, wide boards are used or several standard sheathing bars are combined. The instructions provide for the installation of both lower and upper ends. The lower elements are fixed directly to the surface of the sheathing using self-tapping screws. The lower valley is made of durable galvanized steel sheet. The technology of roofing equipment using a lower valley involves the drainage of water that penetrates under the roofing at the junction of the slopes. The design of this type of valley is an equilateral element with internal corner at 135 degrees, the edges of which are curved.
The upper valley for a metal tile roof has more of a decorative value in order to hide the joint of the sheets with the lower valley. As the technology for arranging a metal tile roof provides, the upper valley is installed at the last stages of the work. End strips
Another important element of a metal roof is the end strip. This part is designed to protect the edge of the metal tile sheet from precipitation under its surface, as well as the accumulation of dust, leaves or other debris between the end board and the roof surface. In addition, the end strip protects the structure from wind loads and gives the roof an aesthetic appearance. The end strips must be fixed directly to the end board, and its edge must be in close contact with the metal tile sheet. Fix end strips need to be done in increments of 50–60 cm, and the overlap between such elements should be at least 5 cm. Based on the name of this element, it is easy to guess its purpose and location in the metal roofing structure. Installation of the eaves strip completes the arrangement of the roof frame. It should be attached after fixing the frontal (cornice) board to the frame. 
The instructions for carrying out work on arranging a roof made of metal tiles stipulate the need to overlap the lower edge of the waterproofing onto the eaves strip, which will protect against water penetration into the supporting structure. Ridge strips
Metal roofing at the upper joints of the slopes requires the presence of protective parts that provide natural ventilation of the under-roof space and hide the distance between the sheet material, providing reliable protection against water ingress. Ridge strips act as such an element. Skates can be either flat or rounded. The technology for their installation involves fastening using roofing screws with rubber seals, and it is recommended to place a ridge seal under the bar itself. This detail prevents precipitation, debris or insects from entering under the roof surface.
Snow guards and other safety elements
The roofing structure made of metal tiles requires additional accessories to ensure its safe operation and maintenance. So, to prevent uncontrolled snow falling from the roof and possible injury to people, snow retainers are installed (some manufacturers label such elements as snow catchers). The installation diagram may provide for the arrangement of these elements in one line at a certain distance, as well as in a checkerboard pattern. These elements need to be fastened after the second or third wave of metal tiles from the eaves strip. Snow guards have two most common designs - in the form of slats of various formats or interconnected tubes. 
As you know, movement on the surface of a metal tile can cause its deformation. Accessories such as walkways and roof railings will ensure the safety of roofing sheets and the safety of movement on them. The installation scheme for such roofing elements should provide for the presence of a separate continuous sheathing. It is also possible to install special ladders, with which you can climb slopes with too steep a slope. The installation instructions for these elements provide for the mandatory sealing of the places of attachment to the surface of the metal tile roof. In this case, the staircase can consist of two conjugate structures - wall and roof. These accessories also include brackets, seals, supporting elements, handrails and wall flanges.
Junction strips
An important stage in the installation of a metal tile roof is the arrangement of junctions sheet material with structural elements of the building that are located on the roof. These include roof windows, chimneys, and ventilation outlets. And if in the case of roof windows it is enough to use the parts that come with the window, then the chimney outlet must be equipped with special strips. The correct technology for equipping such units prevents precipitation from getting between the chimney and the surrounding sheets of metal tiles. As in the case of installing valleys, abutment strips can also be used in two types - external and internal. The so-called internal apron completely covers the perimeter of the chimney and is fixed with the location of the upper curved edge into a pre-equipped groove in the chimney masonry. After this, the internal connection is equipped with water drainage under the sheets of metal tiles. After laying the sheet roofing material, you need to install the external abutment strips. According to the internal principle, the edges of these strips are also placed in a pre-prepared groove in the chimney.
Special accessories are installed on top of the ventilation outlets passing through the roof to prevent water or leaves from entering the channels. 
To install the described parts, you need to make a hole in the roof and secure them with self-tapping screws, not forgetting about the sealing gasket that comes with the kit. Sewer outlets and mounting points for television antennas are installed using a similar procedure. Metal tiles are one of the most popular roofing materials among owners of country houses. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.
What tools and materials will you need?
- Screwdriver and hammer;
- Electric hacksaws and scissors;
- Long staff and marker.
An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.
You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.
From the materials you will need to prepare:
- Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
- Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
- Lathing board 25x100 mm;
- 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Mineral wool;
- Consumables.
The cross-section of lumber must be maintained. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various kinds additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow guards, etc.
Additional elements for metal tiles How much does a metal roofing cost?
The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:
- Type of polymer coating material;
- Difficulty in roof configuration;
- Type of insulation used;
- Roof size.
On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. For this purpose, the roof area in square meters just multiply by 1000.
Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles
Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time, even if correct cladding waterproofing agent.
Preparatory work
The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother they will be structural elements boxes at home, the less energy you will have to spend on adjusting the rafter legs in the future. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.
Material measurements
In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
- First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
- Determine where the chimney will be located, ventilation holes, roof windows, etc.
In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.
Lumber calculation
After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to perform calculations necessary lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often it is arranged under metal tiles gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees.
The amount of timber for the rafter legs is determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.
The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.
Step between rafter legs on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:
- Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
- Add one to the result and round up.
The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.
Assembling the rafter system
The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:
- Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
- Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.
Roof frame construction Often used on large and high roofs ridge beam. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house box.
Hydro- and thermal insulation device
Sometimes metal tiles are also used cold roof. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves it performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.
Waterproofing scheme The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.
Roof sheathing
It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of unfavorable weather factors. The sheathing is installed using a pole and a building level.
The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way you can collect reliable basis under sheets of metal tiles.
How to correctly calculate metal tiles
After assembling the sheathing, you can install the roofing sheets themselves. But of course, you must first make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:
- Calculate the area of each slope;
- Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
- Add up the results obtained.
How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys
The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before installing the sheets. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.
Installation of cornice strips Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
- Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
- Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.
Choosing metal tiles
There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
- Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
- IN middle lane Russian roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
- Warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.
Installation of sheets
So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
- The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
- Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
- The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.
Installation of additional elements
After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. In this case, they perform mainly a purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.
At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.
Attic roof roof
The installation of the rafter system of the attic roof is carried out as follows:
- Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
- The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
- Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
- The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.
Some subtleties of installing metal tiles
The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
- All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.
We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney
Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:
- Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. Sticks on it waterproofing material with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself along the entire perimeter.
- After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.
Subtleties of installing curtain rods
The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and no one will have to do it. necessary repairs. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of valleys: features
The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).
Fastening sheets to roof breaks
Installation of roof breaks As already mentioned, in the attic broken roofs metal tiles are placed with an overhang at the break. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.
Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that it extends at least 35 cm onto the upper part of the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower part. The sheathing under it should also be continuous.
Installation of snow guards
This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:
- Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
- You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
- The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.
Installation of lightning protection
Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:
- Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
- Down conductor (circular wire);
- Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.
The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.
Safety precautions
When installing metal tile sheets, observe the following safety rules:
- Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
- Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
- To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
- People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.
Conclusion
As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all the required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.
Metal tiles are one of the popular roofing materials. This is due to its good performance properties, accessibility and the ability to install it yourself.
Pros and cons of metal roofing
Most often, metal tiles are used for the roof of a private house, since this roofing material has many advantages:
Metal tiles are a durable and attractive roofing material But metal tiles also have one significant drawback - noise during rain and hail. Therefore, a layer of sound insulation (for example, polystyrene) must be included in the roofing pie of a residential building. This role can also be played by a double layer of insulation or metal tiles with a special soundproofing coating.
Layers of insulation under metal tiles do a good job of suppressing external noise Installation of insulated and non-insulated roofs
Metal tiles can be used to cover a private home and any outbuilding. The roof residential buildings They always make it insulated. The roofing pie of an insulated residential attic has greatest number layers:
- metal tiles - performs protective function buildings;
- sound insulation - dampens vibration and noise due to external influences on metal sheets;
- sheathing - the place where the roof is attached;
- counter-lattice - provides ventilation gap, prevents condensation from forming;
- waterproofing - protects the insulation from moisture;
- thermal insulation - retains heat inside the living space;
- rafter system;
- vapor barrier - prevents the penetration of moisture from inside the room;
- internal lining.
When settling in roofing pie It’s better not to skimp on metal tiles so that the roof turns out to be of high quality and lasts a long time On an outbuilding or summer unheated garden house The design of a roofing pie for metal tiles is much simpler:
- metal tiles;
- sheathing;
- counter-lattice;
- waterproofing;
- rafter system.
Metal tiles are good for roofing outbuildings, sunshades, garages and bathhouses. Installation of metal roofing
You can cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, if you study the instructions in advance, calculate the material and prepare the necessary tools.
Before work, it is important to remember the basic rules for installing metal tiles on the roof Required Tools
To lay metal tiles on the roof you will need:
You will also need a sturdy ladder. For installation work on low outbuildings, it is better to use a stepladder. And to move on the roof of a building you need to secure it wooden stairs on the ridge bar.
For safety and ease of installation of metal tiles, ladders attached to the top of the roof are used. Calculation of materials
The metal tile sheet has two widths:
- total (1180 mm);
- useful (1100 mm) - the edges are not counted, since the sheets overlap each other.
When making calculations, the value of the usable width is used.
If desired, you can order material from the manufacturer according to your own dimensions, so as not to cut the sheets later To determine the required amount of material, you need to measure the roof and calculate:
- How many rows will there be? To do this, divide the width of the slope (along the eaves or ridge) by the usable width of the metal tile sheet. For example, 5 m: 1.1 m = 4.5. Round the resulting number to 5 rows.
- How many sheets are there in a row? To do this, the height of the slope must be divided by the length of the metal tile sheet (standard sheet 2.5 m). For example, 3.5 m: 2.5 m = 1.4. Round up to 2 pieces. If desired, you can order the length of the sheets equal to the height of the slope.
- Quantity of material. It turns out: for one slope you need 5 * 2 = 10 sheets, and for two - 20 sheets.
The color of the screw head for attaching metal tiles to the sheathing can be matched to the color of the roofing material When choosing self-tapping screws, you need to pay attention to:
- distance between turns - self-tapping screws with a large distance between turns are suitable for attaching metal tiles to wooden beam;
- tip - self-tapping screws with a sharp tip attach the metal tiles to metal base;
- length - long self-tapping screws are suitable for fixing additional elements, short ones - for connecting sheets and fastening metal tiles to the sheathing (2.8 cm);
- hat shape.
Technology of stuffing lathing under metal sheets
The weight of metal tiles is small, so special basis not required for it. You only need to rafter system nail the sheathing.
You need to fill the sheathing under the metal tiles exactly according to the markings It is important to correctly determine the step of laying the boards. The distance between the first and second boards should be 25–35 cm (depending on the distance between the bends of the sheet of a particular model of metal tile), then the step increases by 5 cm and is kept constant.
The sheathing pitch must correspond to the wave pitch of the metal tiles IN problem areas(placement of valleys, junction of metal tiles to pipes and near windows) the sheathing is made continuous.
Technology of laying metal tiles on the roof
Typically, metal sheets begin to be laid from the right edge of the rectangular roof slope. Then each subsequent sheet is laid on the previous one. If you move in the opposite direction, then each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one. If the slope is triangular in shape, then the first sheet is placed in the center of the slope (where its height is greatest). And the rest are already attached to it on both sides. The installation itself is performed in the following sequence:
- The first row of metal tiles is laid. At the same time, you should not immediately securely fix the sheets. It’s better to grab a little in one place, align them relative to each other and the edge of the slope. The first row should hang 5 cm from the eaves.
You can start work either from the left side or from the right - Fix the metal tiles. It is recommended to use only high quality fasteners, since the service life of the roof directly depends on this. You need to place the screws through the wave.
The fasteners must be placed through the wave, screwed tightly, but do not pinch the O-ring - At the joint, part of the corner is cut off to remove the seal. It is possible to straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.
If you need to move on metal tiles, then you can only step on the lower part of the wave - Repeat the process for the second and subsequent rows.
Eat different variants laying metal tiles in two rows, so after studying the installation principle, you can choose a more convenient method for a specific roof - Fix the end strips. Lay them with an overlap of 2 cm.
When working with metal sheets, you need to follow some rules:
- move on the roof carefully, in comfortable shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave;
- Immediately paint the cut area with special paint. It is prohibited to cut metal tiles with a grinder, as it violates protective covering;
- After installation, remove the protective film from the surface of the material: it will not look aesthetically pleasing if it crumbles under the influence of sunlight.
Video: installation of metal tiles with step-by-step instructions
Installation of roof ridge
The ridge is made of the same material as the roofing. Its installation is carried out as follows:
If the slope angle is 45°, before installing the ridge, you need to check its compatibility with a roof of a similar design. Otherwise, there is a risk of moisture penetrating into the under-roof space, which will lead to complete replacement roofs.
Video: how to install a skate yourself
Installation of the valley
If the roof has a complex shape, then a valley is placed at the junction of two slopes.
First, the lower valley is attached, then the roofing covering is installed, after which the joint is closed with the upper valley Its installation must be carried out in accordance with the technology:
Video: internal structure of the valley
Pipe finishing
Special aprons are used to finish the exit points of heating or ventilation pipes. Installation is carried out as follows:
Video: how to properly bypass a pipe
Grounding
When using metal sheets as roofing material, it is worth thinking about arranging grounding. To do this, you can use a pin electrode or metal pipes(natural grounding). But not pipes with flammable liquids, sewer and central heating.
A metal roof needs to be grounded to avoid problems during a thunderstorm. The cross section of the electrode pin should be 50 mm 2 or more, and the thickness of the steel strips should be from 4 mm. A lightning rod is mounted on the roof: a steel rod 12 mm thick and 200–1500 mm long. You can use a pipe with a sealed end for it. The pin is buried in the ground and connected with galvanized steel wire with a cross-section of 6 mm or more to this lightning rod.
During a thunderstorm, the lightning rod receives an electrical discharge and transmits it to the ground Video: budget version of a lightning rod with your own hands
Installation of snow guards
On last stage After installation, snow guards are attached to the roof. This element is mandatory if polyester-coated metal tiles were used.
The greater the roof slope, the more snow guards will be required. The snow guard strips should be placed in one or two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The greater the slope angle, the more planks you need to use. They can be attached to the metal tiles using the same self-tapping screws that were used to install the roof.
Snow guards are installed for the safety of people below when the frozen mass of snow begins to fall off the roof. Video: why and how snow guards work, rules for their installation
The service life of metal tiles depends on correct installation and compliance with maintenance rules. First of all, this concerns regular cleaning. But you need to clean the metal tiles correctly so as not to damage the protective polymer layer. The main stages of caring for a metal tile roof:
- to remove dirt and leaves you need to use a fluffy brush;
- if there are more serious contaminants, you can choose special means, intended for polymer coatings;
- drainage system clean only with water under pressure;
- remove snow with special tools that are not capable of damaging the material (plastic scraper).
Proper care can extend the life of metal tiles up to 50 years.
Metal tiles can be an excellent protection for a building from weather conditions. And it will last for decades, but provided that installation technology is followed, high-quality additional elements and fasteners are selected, as well as timely cleaning and repairs.
The question of how to properly lay metal tiles is asked by most developers who decide to choose this practical, modern and durable material when building a house. This article will tell you how to install metal tiles - the instructions will tell you about all the subtleties and nuances of performing this work.
The article also talks about the construction of a roofing pie, the materials, tools and much more necessary for constructing a roof.
The “metal tile – installation – instructions” diagram used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing work such as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.
Installation technology
Before you begin installing metal tiles, you can watch or download a video on the Internet about installing metal tiles, but first of all, let’s look at the diagram and basic principles of constructing the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.
This name refers to the large number of layers, each of which performs a specific function.
Given that correct selection materials, as well as calculations and installation, it is this design that makes it possible to make a metal tile roof the most reliable and durable.
Regardless of how the instructions are applied - the installation of metal tiles is planned to be done with your own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, you should be aware that the roofing is quite complex design, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the manufacturers’ recommendations for installing metal roofing, as well as all building rules and regulations.
Let us remind you once again that it is recommended to watch the video - installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly kept under control, since poor quality work may not be revealed immediately, but during operation.
For example, poor-quality installation of hydro- and vapor barriers can lead to the accumulation of condensation, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.
Important: a reliable and durable roof can only be built in full compliance with all the rules that the instructions include: installation of metal tiles.
- Rafter system;
- Counter rails;
- Waterproofing film;
- Vertical sheathing bars;
- Starting beam for horizontal sheathing;
- Horizontal sheathing bars;
- Additional lathing;
- Wind board;
- Bracket for gutter;
- Cornice strip;
- Metal tiles;
- Roof ridge;
- Ridge seal;
- Dormer window;
- Thermal insulation material;
- Vapor barrier material;
- Attic filing.
The figure shows a diagram of the installation of metal tiles, in accordance with which the work described below is carried out.
But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.
Tools and equipment
This instruction: metal tiles - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones; installation of other brands is generally carried out according to the same principle, distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.
To complete the work you will need the following tools and materials:
- Tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles;
- Screwdriver, preferably battery-powered;
- Medium sized hammer;
- Rule or even long strip;
- Marker.
In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:
- Manual or electric scissors for metal;
- Hacksaw or reciprocating electric saw with the necessary canvases;
- Electric cutting shears;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Circular saw with teeth made of pobedit.
After cutting the sheets is completed, various sawdust should be removed, which, when rusting, can lead to damage to the polymer coating of the metal tile.
Important: when cutting sheets of metal tiles, you should not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.
In this case, the impact high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosion process, as a result of which rusty smudges will appear on the roof.
Installation instructions
Useful: despite the fact that styling long sheets reduces the number of joints; the installation process itself is much more complicated than laying shorter sheets with overlap.
- Roof freezing;
- Ice formation on metal tiles;
- Rotting of sheathing and rafters;
- Destruction of finishing interior spaces.
To avoid the listed unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles recommend using thermal insulation material required thickness.
In addition, when installing metal tiles, it is imperative to protect the insulation material on the side of the metal tile - with a waterproofing film, and on the side of the interior - with a vapor barrier film.
Removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation natural ventilation, which represents the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the ridge of the roof.
For this purpose between waterproofing film and metal tiles using lathing, a gap of approximately 40 mm should be left. When hemming the eaves overhangs, you should leave gaps on them, and also clear the special holes in the rubber seal on the ridge.
Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, the thermal insulation can be installed without a gap.
- On the rafters, beams are nailed on top of the waterproofing film, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Sheathing boards are attached to these beams;
- The first sheathing board from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the others. Next, you must comply correct distance between boards;
- In the case of Monterrey metal tiles, the installation instructions: metal tiles require installing a second board with a distance of 300 mm from the bottom edge of the first (measurement is taken from the middle of the second nailed board), for Maxi metal tiles this distance is 350 mm;
- The distances between the axes of the sheathing boards, nailed later, are for different brands metal tiles: for “Monterrey” and “Supermonterrey” - 350 mm, for “Maxi” - 400 mm.
- Continuous sheathing is performed in places such as valleys, chimneys, the perimeter of auditorium and skylights. On both sides of the ridge, two additional edged boards, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary sheathing.
The hermetically sealed connection of the metal tile roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron made using the lower connection strips:
- The strip is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
- Using a grinder, a groove is made along the drawn line, after which the dust should be removed and the area should be washed with water;
- Installation of the internal apron begins on the pipe wall that is located at the bottom of the slope, that is, on the eaves side. The plank is cut in place, installed and secured using self-tapping screws;
- The apron is installed in the same way on all remaining sides of the pipe;
- If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is made. The edge of the apron, inserted into the groove, should be processed silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
- Next, a tie is inserted into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that allows water to drain. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the eaves. A bead is made along the edges of the tie using a hammer and pliers;
- Sheets of metal tiles are mounted on top of the tie and apron;
- After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the production and installation of the outer apron begins, made using the upper junction strips;
- The upper strips are installed similarly to the lower ones, but the upper edge is not inserted into the groove, but is attached directly to the wall.
Important: when moving on a metal tile roof, all necessary safety precautions should be observed.
Metal tiles: installation instructions prescribes wearing comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and stepping only into wave troughs. In addition, you should use an installer's belt and a safety cord.
- The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and secured at the top using one self-tapping screw.
In this case, a projection (metal tile canopy) of about 40 mm should be made near the cornice. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first when installed from right to left, or its edge is placed under the first sheet in the case of installation from left to right. - The sheets are fastened together using self-tapping screws. top point overlap, while they should not be screwed to the sheathing under the metal tiles - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
- Laying the third sheet is carried out similarly to the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the cornice.
If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, you should follow the order of their laying shown in Figure B.
Important: if available protective film on metal tiles, it must be removed before installation.
Important: when purchasing metal tiles, you need to find out the warranty conditions for the material.
Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only if they use a specific brand of screws, so it is recommended to purchase screws from the supplier along with the material itself.
When installing ventilation elements, the first step is to draw a hole in the metal tile and cut it according to the template.
Next, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, leveled vertically using a level and also secured with self-tapping screws.
To connect the hood and the indoor air duct it is used corrugated pipe, passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.- To install stairs, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per section.
They are placed on the staircase posts and secured with M8x40 bolts.
The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in wave deflections using Ш8x60 bolts, and their junction points are sealed.
Along the length of the roof slope, the staircase is assembled in sections, the topmost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.
The vertical fencing grid, which ensures safety when performing roof maintenance, is installed on continuous sheathing at the level of the cornices.
The fence supports are installed in the deflections of the metal tile waves, the brackets are attached to the support beam using galvanized M8x60 screws using a rubber gasket.
The distance between supports should be approximately 900 mm. The supports are adjusted relative to the slope of the roof and fixed, after which the fence itself is hung on them.
At the junction points of the supports and sections of the fence, holes are drilled (12 mm in the lower crossbar, 12 mm in the upper).
Through these holes, the supports are connected to the sections using appropriate bolts. After installation is complete, all connection points should be sealed.
To service antennas, chimneys and other elements, transition bridges are installed on the roof, for the installation of which a continuous sheathing is also carried out in advance.
The fastening of the bridge support brackets is carried out in the same way as the roof fencing; the inclination is adjusted by selecting the holes in the fastening brackets.
Fixation is carried out using M8x20 bolts, located two on each side of the platform.
Tubular snow retainers are installed to protect against avalanches of snow cover from the roof; the sheathing is also continuous.
The brackets are attached in increments of about 100 cm; the end brackets are installed approximately 50 cm from the end of the snow guard.
The snow guard should also be removed 35 cm from the roof eaves. If the length of the slope exceeds 8 m, an intermediate row of snow retainers is installed.Important: if there are skylights, snow guards must also be installed above them.
The sheathing is made from beams or edged boards treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended cross-section of beams is 50x50 mm, boards - 100x32 mm.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out in several stages:
Important: if the rafter pitch exceeds 1000 mm, thicker boards should be used for lathing.
Installation of metal tiles. Endova
Before the metal tiles are laid, the instructions provide for attaching the bottom valley strip using self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing along the internal joint of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, marking and, if necessary, cutting of metal tile sheets is carried out.
Installation of metal tiles is carried out from the bottom up (see figure). The top joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, so they install decorative element, for example, the top strip of the valley.
Important: the weakest point of the roof is the joints. In order to avoid subsequent roof repairs, their installation instructions: metal tiles require special care.
Installation of other types of metal tiles
Was discussed above general procedure construction of a metal tile roof, we will consider the main nuances when installing certain types of material.
The figure shows that the pitch of the sheathing when installing metal tiles of the “Cascade” brand differs from the pitch for the “Elite” and “Monterrey” brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.
When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account its nuances. The locking part of this brand has perforations, which simplifies the positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.
In this case, the fasteners are hidden, which allows you to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.
When purchasing metal tiles, you should find out various subtleties O specific form material, and when performing installation it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal tile roof.
