Wooden finishing of the house makes it more comfortable and warm inside and out. However, this can be expensive. Therefore, materials that imitate wood are often used. The lining copes well with this. It can be mounted on ceilings, external and external walls of the house and even doors. There is a wide range of this material. The process is so simple to perform that covering the walls with clapboard yourself will not cause any difficulties.

Classification

Exist different types distillation according to the type of material from which it is made.

Wood paneling

It can safely be called a classic of the genre. There are a huge number of different subspecies wooden lining, which differ in the type and species of wood used for production.

It's environmentally friendly pure material, which can be chosen for cladding any surface. There are others positive traits, such as environmental friendliness, lightness, ease of installation. However, when choosing a material, it is worth remembering that there are also disadvantages:

• influence natural factors on external condition(temperature changes and high humidity deform the material), which is why processing is necessary by special means;
• need for careful care.

Lining made of plastic

This option is considered budget. They can be used to decorate the ceiling and walls. Has a beautiful appearance. Installed without seams. The disadvantages include the fact that such lining is short-lived, can fade and turn yellow, and is easily destroyed, especially in the cold. However, all the shortcomings of the material are offset by its low cost.

Metal lining

It is made from thin sheets steel and aluminum, which are coated with protective materials. They differ in color and texture (it is possible to select lining that imitates wood).

Aluminum lining is characterized by a long service life. Most often it is used to cover the facades of houses.

Steel lining is inexpensive, but short-lived. If damaged protective covering, then irreversible corrosion will begin, and thin material will rot quickly.

Table: classification of lining by cross section

Name	Description
Standard	Equipped with a tongue-and-groove system (the tongue of one board is inserted into the groove of another). The tenons in the lining are slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that when the wood dries completely it does not begin to deform. Standard lining has good sound and heat insulation. If done correctly, there should be no gaps between the planks.
"Calm"	She is also called a “collective farmer”, Russian, classic or simple. It differs from standard view only by rounding the beveled corners. The high demand for “calm” is due to high quality lining and neat appearance.
	This type of lining has a longer groove, which gives the surface a slightly different look. Production takes place in European countries, Russia and Belarus.
Softline	“Soft line” translated from English means “soft line”. The name encrypts its main distinguishing feature. If we talk about appearance, then this is a peculiar mix of “calm” and eurolining, where there are rounded bevels and an elongated groove.

Ceiling rail, block house, batten and imitation timber also often refers to subtypes of lining. This is because these materials are manufactured and attached in the same or similar way.

Photo gallery: different types of material by cross-section

When installing such lining there will never be any gaps between the planks.
The only difference between the Shtil lining and the standard one is the presence of rounded bevels
Eurolining is produced in Europe, Russia and Belarus
Combines the features of eurolining and “calm”

Table: division into classes

Class	Description
A	Material good quality, sometimes you can see knots on the surface that do not fall out. A few resin cracks on the surface or blind cracks are also normal for this class. Suitable for finishing residential premises.
IN	A 1.5 m long plank may have 4 knots, but no more, resin pockets and blind cracks in a small amount. Not recommended for finishing residential premises.
WITH	Low quality material. They are often used to sheathe outbuildings. In such slats, knots may fall out, there are through gaps, and the color differs from the standard one.
Extra	This lining is ideal. There are no knots or other defects on the planks.

Table: classification of material by wood type

The lining is made from deciduous and coniferous wood. Each of them has certain characteristics that may be suitable for a particular cladding location.

	Wood type	Description
Hardwood tree	Oak	Resistant to rot, mold and mildew. Durable and flexible. The color ranges from light fawn to dark brown. It is almost impossible to sand oak to perfect smoothness. High price.
	Linden	Very good for cladding residential premises. It is also suitable for cladding a bathhouse, since it emits nice smell, and it does not heat up from high temperatures. It has an aesthetic appearance and low density. It turns yellow over time.
	Aspen	It is very easy to process. Its properties are in no way inferior to linden lining. Keeps its shape perfectly. Suitable for covering surfaces of homes and baths. In the latter case, when exposed to high temperatures, the aspen does not dry out and cracks do not appear on it.
	Alder	Wood contains a large percentage of tannins. Its characteristics are similar to oak, but it is easier to process. Expensive and rare type of wood.
	Ash	In terms of strength, wood is slightly worse than oak, but visually more aesthetically pleasing. Has a rich texture. Easy to process. Expensive. It has a dense and elastic texture.
Conifers tree	Cedar	The noble beauty of the material is quite expensive. Has a pleasant healing aroma. Soft and flexible material, making it easy to process.
	Larch	Has very high density. Thanks to the gum in the composition, it is moisture resistant and protected from rotting. When exposed to high temperatures it becomes very hot. Smells nice. Difficult to process.
	Pine	A budget-friendly and common cladding option. The wood of this species emits a healing aroma. It's easy to handle
	Spruce	Its loose and soft structure does not tolerate moisture very well. But this is an excellent option for cladding interior walls residential premises due to excellent thermal conductivity. Has a pleasant pine smell and aesthetic appearance. When treated with special means, the service life increases significantly.

Preparation for covering the walls of the house

The first stage of cladding a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:

Stock up on all the necessary tools and materials in advance. You will definitely need a hammer, building level, hammer drill, screwdriver, tape measure and jigsaw.

Which mounting method to choose

Typically, the lining is equipped with a tongue-and-groove system, which allows the planks to be well fastened to each other. However, the material must also be fixed on the sheathing. This can be done with staples, clamps, screws and nails. The mount can be placed openly or hidden. In this case, you need to ensure that the entire structure is well fixed and the lining is not damaged.

Kleimers

The clamps will fix the lining as efficiently as possible. But it is important to choose the right size of nails. It is selected depending on the thickness of the grooves. Often, clamp sets already have nails.

Video: how to fasten lining using clamps

Mounting gun with staples

The staples are fired from a gun into the groove of the board and securely fix the lining to the frame part. But it is very difficult for beginners to do this the first time.

Decorative screws

Fastens boards with high quality without losing the aesthetic beauty of the material.

Nails and screws

Both should be attached diagonally. So, the strip is clamped into the groove of the previous strip of material, and the cap presses it to the base.

Calculation of materials

An example of calculating materials for a room with dimensions of 5x4x2.5 m.

• length (A) - 5 m;
• width (B) - 4 m;
• height (C) - 2.5 m.

Using these parameters, you can calculate:

• A*C=5*2.5=12.5 m2 (area of ​​one of the walls);
• 12.5*2=25 m2 (area of ​​two opposite walls);
• A*B=5*4=20 m2 (area of ​​the second wall);
• 20*2=40 m2 (total area of ​​two other opposite walls);
• 40+25=65 m2 (total surface area that will be finished).

To find out how much material is needed for such a room, you need to determine the size of one lining strip.

How to cladding walls with your own hands using horizontal placement of lining

The work is performed in several steps:

How to sheathe walls if you place the lining vertically

Wooden façade cladding

There are some peculiarities when cladding a log house

If you plan to also paint the walls of the facade after cladding, then you can purchase middle-class lining for finishing. Otherwise, it is better to take a higher quality lining, since all the flaws will be visible (even if the surface is varnished).

Perform the work in the following sequence:

The process of covering the façade walls itself is no different from interior decoration.

Windows, protruding corners and baseboards can be decorated decorative elements for beauty.

Before lining with clapboard, do not forget to install a layer of insulation and vapor barrier

Material processing after installation

Choose only high-quality processing products.

You will need:

Ideally, surface treatment of the facing material should be done before installation.

Perform the work in the following sequence:

1. Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus using a steel or hair brush and then fine-grained sandpaper.
2. Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These products can be found 2 in 1.
3. Paint or varnish the surface. But before starting this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.

You can easily decorate the walls of your house both outside and inside using lining. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.

This article outlines instructions for installing lining with your own hands.

The lining can be plastic, MDF or wood.

Using a wooden one as an example, we will tell you how to properly nail the lining.

First of all, you need to decide on the direction:

• Vertically, from floor to ceiling, the room visually becomes taller and narrower.
• Horizontally, from wall to wall - it looks lower, but wider.
• At an angle (diagonal laying) is a slightly more complex method and requires more material.

If the surface is wooden, perfectly flat and vertical (an almost incredible case), we nail the lining directly to the wall.

In other cases, a sheathing of slats with a pitch of 500 mm will be required.

Let's assume that we have chosen a vertical arrangement of the lining.

Installation of sheathing

Made from dry, smooth, planed pine slats with a cross-section of at least 20*40 mm.

It is advisable to treat the slats with an antiseptic composition:

• In the corner of the room we install the first rail vertically, checking its position using a plumb line. It is necessary to fasten the rail to the wall in 500 mm increments with screws of sufficient length, using plastic dowels and wooden spacers.
• In the opposite corner we similarly mount the second rail.
• We stretch two cords along the top and bottom of the wall from rail to rail, which will serve as beacons when installing the upper and lower slats.
• We strengthen the horizontal slats under the ceiling and near the floor, controlling their position along the cord.
• Stepping back 0.5 meters from the bottom rail, install the next rail horizontally.

Advice. You can also check the correct installation using the cord, stretching it between the outer slats. Or according to the rule (flat slats), resting it on the upper and lower horizontal slats.

• The rest of the sheathing slats are installed in the same way.

We do the same on other walls.

Note. When the lining is horizontal, the sheathing slats are located vertically. At diagonal laying- at right angles to the lining.

Installation of lining

Vertical arrangement

How to nail clapboard vertically?

Begin to attach the lining from the left corner of the wall:

• Having sawed off (with an electric jigsaw or a saw with a fine tooth) the required length, which should be 5 - 10 mm less than the height of the room, we place the first strip with the comb towards the corner.
• What nails should I use to nail the lining? Along the ridge with thin nails with a small head (they are also called finishing nails).
• There are several ways you can proceed next.
• Nail the clapboard with finishing nails in the middle of the strip to each lath of the sheathing and putty the nail heads, sinking them into the wood, or you may not need to putty.
• Fasten in the same way, but use screws instead of nails (for example, 2.5 - 3 mm in diameter).
• Fasten with nails or screws not in the middle, but along the ridge (due to the small thickness of the ridge, it is necessary to drill holes for fasteners, otherwise cracking is possible).

• Drive nails or tighten screws into the grooves of the lining. In this case, the ridge of the next strip hides the fastener.

How to nail the lining correctly?

Advice. Nails must be hit at an angle and not all the way to avoid damaging the front side. Nails are finished using a punch or a core with a blunt end.

• Use special fastenings. These are metal brackets that fit onto the bottom flange of the groove and are nailed to the sheathing. Their price is low.

Note. The clamps can be secured with nails (usually included), 3*12 screws or staples using a construction stapler.

• We insert the second strip with a comb into the groove of the first and tap it until it stops.

Advice. To avoid damaging the groove when finishing the lining, use a piece with a cut groove. It is inserted with a comb into the groove of the strip, and it is struck with a hammer.

• The remaining strips are attached in the same way. It is necessary to periodically monitor the vertical position of the lining using a plumb line and, if necessary, adjust it.
• The last strip is cut to the required width and nailed to the sheathing along the right edge.
• On the first strip of the next wall, the ridge is cut off. This strip will cover the nail heads on the last panel of the first wall.
• Further installation is carried out in the same way as on the first wall.

Horizontal arrangement

How to properly nail the lining horizontally?

When installing from the bottom up, it is better to see how to nail the lining almost to the very top, but under the ceiling there will be a strip cut to the width, which is not always beautiful.

With this method, gaps between the strips are visible.

Important. When finishing the walls of a bathhouse or sauna horizontally, moisture gets into these cracks and the lining will quickly lose its beautiful appearance.

If you start from the top, then the first strip is attached to the ceiling.

The next strip is inserted from below with a comb into the groove of the first, nailed, and so on.

The last strip is cut to width and inserted into the groove of the penultimate one; it is convenient to use a simple lever (for example, a nail puller or a pry bar).

The gap near the floor is covered with a plinth.

Diagonal arrangement

More often used on ceilings than walls.

The technology for nailing the lining diagonally is slightly different.

• You need to start from the corner.
• The ends of each strip are cut according to the template at the required angle.
• When, it is most convenient to fasten with clamps using screws, using a screwdriver or a cordless screwdriver.

Little tricks. In order not to leave on front side sole marks electric jigsaw, it is better to cut along the wrong side, using a nail file “tooth up”. To avoid breaking the thin ridge when sawing, you can put a piece of lining on it with a groove.

Final stage

After the planes of the walls and (or) ceiling are ready, it is necessary to decorate the corners - vertical and horizontal, internal and external.

For outside corners, wooden corners are usually used, which are nailed with finishing nails.

Internal nodes can be closed with a special jute (or hemp) rope or a special shaped corner strip - fillet..

The video demonstrates how to nail eurolining.

Many owners of private houses are thinking about finishing various surfaces wooden clapboard. This material has many advantages. Working with it requires fulfilling certain requirements. It is divided into several main stages. You can figure out how to nail the lining using simple instructions.

Stages of installation of wooden lining

The wooden lining must be securely fastened to the surface to be finished. This is necessary for her long-term operation and creating an attractive appearance. First you need to prepare the lining. This is necessary because it will be operated under certain conditions.

Before work, the planks must be laid in the room where the finishing will be done for one day. The tree adapts to the microclimate of the room. Only after this procedure is it possible to cut wooden elements. If this time is not maintained, the boards will not fit tightly together.

Fastening waterproofing

To create a waterproofing layer, select polyethylene film. Roofing felt can be used. The material is mounted on slats. They are first nailed to the surface to be treated. The slats should be at least 3 cm wide. The distance between them should be left at 1 m. Small holes are attached at the top and bottom of the waterproofing to improve ventilation.

Important! This step is not necessary, but it should be present in the case of rooms where there is high humidity.

Lathing

The slats, which have a cross-section of 20x40 mm, are installed on the wall with a screwdriver at intervals of 40-50 cm. In this case, it is necessary to regularly check the correctness of their installation using a level. Thanks to the use of slats, you can level the wall well. In addition, thanks to this work, you can create a gap between the finishing material and the wall.

If there are uneven walls, a mounting wedge must be placed under the sheathing slats. Plywood or wooden beams. The sheathing must be installed with self-tapping screws. The bottom slats should be raised above the floor by 5 cm. This is due to the installation floor plinth. The top slats should be fixed 5 cm from the ceiling.

Installation of sheathing is carried out around doors and windows. It must be remembered that lathing can be made of metal and plastic.

Waterproofing and lathing

In the absence of a waterproofing layer, the sheathing is attached directly to the wall. However, if it was used, it is necessary to take into account the location of the slats on which the film was attached. If they are nailed vertically, the sheathing elements must be nailed horizontally, and vice versa. Long self-tapping screws are used to secure them.

Installation of insulation

Insulation material is placed in the space between the slats. Most often, to protect the premises of a private house from the cold, they use mineral wool. To prevent sagging of the insulation, it is better to secure it with twine.

A vapor barrier layer can be installed on top of the insulation. It should be located rough side towards the insulation. This is not necessary, but such a decision will have a positive effect on the microclimate of the room.

The sheathing is also attached around all openings. If the room is quite warm, installation of insulation material is not required. When using MDF or plastic lining, no insulation is used at all. Communication networks are placed in the gap between the finishing material and the sheathing.

Installation of the first wooden lining

Installation of the first plank on the wall is carried out from the corner of the room. Finishing is carried out vertically. First you need to make a hole using a thin drill bit. Then the screws are screwed in.

Important! If a block house is being installed, installation of the first lining should begin from the top of the room. In this case, the finishing is done horizontally. In this case, the elements must be periodically leveled.

When attaching plastic lining, the first strip is installed with a molding. This element is a plastic strip. The plastic coating is seamless. For this reason, it is attached to the wall in almost the same way as popular PVC panels are installed. Such parts are attached to the sheathing with a stapler.

Mounting methods

There are many options correct fastening clapboards to the wall. For this purpose, clamps, nails or screws can be used. The best option is ensured through the choice of clamps. In this case, the finishing elements do not deteriorate. In addition, it can be dismantled quite easily.

Fastening with clamps

A clamp is mounted in the groove of the element, which is already installed. It is hammered in with a hammer. Then nails are placed into the holes of the clamper. The resulting connection turns out to be quite strong. Installation of the next lining is carried out in a similar way.

Self-tapping screws or nails

This method of fastening lining elements is quite “traumatic” for the material. Unlike the previous method, it deforms the product. In this case, the lining is nailed using finishing nails. You can start nailing elements from the front of the element, but the fasteners will be visible. In this case, it is necessary to drive the nails obliquely from the longitudinal tongue. Otherwise, the decorative strip may crack.

There is another option - hammer nails into the ridge of the lining if the profile is displaced. In this case, each subsequent plank will cover the attachment point of the previous one.

Important! The finish should be checked regularly using a level. This is necessary for the most even installation of the lining. The boards should not be installed too tightly. If they swell, the surface will become deformed.

Installation of accessories

After installing the lining, it is necessary to close the edges of the finishing area. For this purpose, use a fillet or spatula. Fastening this part to the wall is done using small nails. When using plastic lining, the fittings are attached to adhesive composition.

Surface treatment

This step is performed only when attaching wooden lining. It must be coated with a special product that can protect the elements from fire and insects. These include fire retardants and antiseptics. Then the lining is painted. This allows you to give the surface the desired shade.

Features of installing lining on the ceiling

If the frame on which the lining is mounted is made of wooden slats, it should be attached in the same way as the sheathing on the wall. However, the gaps between the slats are larger.

When choosing metal frame Instead of lathing, it is necessary to use a suspension system. The guide profile will be installed on them. To increase the reliability of the ceiling structure, more suspensions should be made.

As you can see, installing the lining on the wall is quite simple. Even an inexperienced master can handle it. However, the work time depends on the skills of the worker.

Lining and eurolining

Before choosing a material for finishing a room, you need to understand the features of the available options. Usually the choice is between lining and eurolining. Features of eurolining:

• The material is made from higher quality wood.
• It has a profile of greater complexity.
• Eurolining is performed with a deeper tongue-and-groove fastening.
• It is made with ventilation ducts.

The disadvantage of eurolining is its high cost. The process of installing eurolining is not complicated. The only requirement that must be met is that the moisture content of the board should not exceed 12%.

Lining in the bathhouse

Lining is used for finishing walls in different rooms- from ordinary apartments to baths and saunas. The optimal solution When decorating a steam room, the choice of lining is important. This option is not only the best, but also affordable. There are several features of installing lining in bathhouses. For the steam room, it is better to choose tree species such as oak, pine, birch, and larch. Must be processed before work wooden elements special anti-fungal agents.

The procedure for nailing lining strips is not very complicated. It can be attached to clamps, self-tapping screws, and nails. Video explaining how to nail clapboard:

Home craftsmen who have figured out how to nail lining from wood have the opportunity to independently carry out a variety of finishing work. This material, unique to a certain extent, is used for both external and internal work.

The products we are interested in are made in the form of wooden boards, which have a thickness of 25 mm or more and are fastened to each other using special side grooves. This material can be used at temperatures from +15 to -50 °C. In addition, it is absolutely not afraid of humidity. Lining is made not only from wood. It is also made from aluminum, plastic and fiberboard. But it is wooden products that are most widespread. They are used for almost any type finishing works indoors and outdoors.

Room decorated with clapboard

The boards described are good for indoor decorative cladding ceiling surfaces and walls. They are used for finishing the outside of private houses and for erecting fences. Such products are also indispensable for creating practical cladding in saunas and baths. Wooden lining is made from alder, ash, aspen, cedar, pine, beech, larch, spruce. The material is usually divided into several types depending on their quality and type of profile. Installation of the lining is carried out in three ways:

1. Horizontally. With this installation option, the room becomes visually wider and at the same time lower.
2. Vertically. In this case, the room looks narrower, but higher.
3. Diagonally (at a certain angle). This installation method requires high flow rate material and special skills from the performer of the work.

Home craftsmen, as a rule, install lining according to the first two options. Wooden boards should be installed on a pre-prepared frame. It is constructed quickly enough, according to a simple and understandable scheme. It is allowed not to make a frame only in cases where the walls or ceiling in the room being finished have an absolutely flat surface. It is clear that in reality this rarely happens.

Wood products are fixed to the surface to be coated using strictly defined fasteners. They are given below:

1. Galvanized nails. The peculiarity of these hardware lies in their small cap. They provide the most reliable fixation of the boards. True, the aesthetic appearance of the finish deteriorates a little due to the use of nails. Note that such hardware is hammered into all used boards and strictly in one row.
2. Thin nails or screws. This type of fastener allows you to maintain the beautiful appearance of the cladding. But the quality of fixation of finishing products deteriorates. Thin nails are installed through one board.
3. Special staples called clasps. Working with them is not very convenient. You will need to mount the bracket into the groove of the product installed on the ceiling or wall, and then use several small universal screws to attach the board to the sheathing. Instead of self-tapping screws, it is allowed to use nails of suitable sizes.

Clamps for fastening lining

Experts advise home craftsmen to use nails coated with a zinc layer when installing. Next, we will describe how to nail the lining to a wall or ceiling surface with their help. The option with staples is also interesting. It guarantees a very strong fixation of the facing material to the frame. But installing clamps and screws is truly labor-intensive and painstaking work. Not every self-taught person will be able to perform it correctly.

Let us add that the heads of the nails used for installation wooden products, can be slightly disguised. After installation, it is easy to cover the lining with drying oil, varnish, paint or stain. These compounds, firstly, will protect the material from external influences, and secondly, will make the heads of the hardware less noticeable.

Installation of products using this method of fixing them on the wall should begin from the left corner of the surface being treated. You need to use a fine-tooth saw or jigsaw (which is preferable) to cut the board to the required length as carefully as possible. The length of the panel prepared for installation must be 5–10 mm less in relation to the height of the room. Pros advise cutting several products at once according to the right sizes. Then the installation process will go faster. Place the cut board (the very first one) with the ridge towards the corner. Now comes the most important part. Let's figure out how to properly nail the lining.

Preparation for installation of lining

First you need to take the nails and drive them along the ridge of the board. After this, it is necessary to secure the latter in the middle (it is important to get into the element of the previously constructed frame). Then recess the heads of the used nails. After installing all the panels, it is advisable to putty the fastening points, although some craftsmen say that this is not necessary. Now decide for yourself. Instead of thin nails vertical mounting It is allowed to use small (with a cross-section of no more than 3 mm) screws. It is easier to work with these hardware in cases where the ceiling is being finished. Nails in similar situations It's inconvenient to score. But with the help of a screwdriver you can do everything much faster.

Vertical fastening can be carried out a little differently. Try tightening screws or driving nails into the grooves of the facing strips. Then each subsequent panel (its ridge) will hide the hardware.

With any installation method, the latest product is always nailed to the frame along the right edge of the strip. Then they move to another wall. On the first panel you will need to cut off the ridge for it. This strip will mask the top parts of the hardware that you used to secure the last strip to the first wall. Proceed in the same way on subsequent wall surfaces.

Now let's see how to nail the lining along the height of the surface being tiled, and not from wall to wall. There are two options here:

1. The first product is installed near the floor, and then the remaining strips are installed. In this case, under ceiling surface You will definitely end up with an ugly panel - it will have to be cut to width. Because of this, the appearance of the wall will, of course, worsen.
2. The first panel is placed under the ceiling surface. The next strip is inserted into it from below (with a ridge in the groove), and then, according to the same principle, all other elements of the coating are inserted. With this method, the outermost product will also have to be cut. But in this case, you can carefully cover the unsightly edge with a plinth.

Installation of lining with nails

The diagonal fastening pattern is most often used when finishing ceilings. It has a number of differences from the methods described above. In such situations, the first panel is mounted in a corner (any one you like best). You need to cut the required number of strips at a specific angle using a template. The operation should be carried out very responsibly, since each panel will have its own dimensions. As noted earlier, it is better to install the lining on the ceiling using screws. If you have a battery-powered screwdriver or screwdriver on hand, the whole procedure will take just a few minutes.

So, we figured out what nails to nail the lining with. But that is not all. We want, among other things, to tell you how to work with hardware correctly. The advice is simple. Initially, the nails should not be hit all the way and at a slight angle. Then the front side of the lining is guaranteed not to be damaged. The final driving of nails must be done using a core (its end must be blunt) or a punch.

After installing all the panels on the wall or ceiling, do not forget to decorate all external and internal corners. The first of these are most often masked with a corner shaped fillet (it is a small lath) or a thin hemp (jute) rope. The outer corners are decorated with wood corners. They are secured with thin nails. If you want, do it and enjoy chic finishes premises that you made yourself.

Nowadays, the range of finishing materials is very diverse. High-quality and beautiful products can be selected for both external and internal work. We should also highlight such a popular material as lining. Today we will look in detail at how to properly attach it.

Peculiarities

Premises finished wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive performance, you can use the most different coatings , from special wood panels to wood-look laminate. However, different types of lining are recognized as one of the most popular and in demand. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality wooden lining has an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems for 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are needed to protect natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite “dish” of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations you can forget about such problems.

As a rule, lining is treated with similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, you will still need material self-care. Fortunately, stores sell many suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Advantages and disadvantages

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

• The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit hazardous and harmful substances, even if located in high temperature conditions.
• The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant-to-touch surface.

• To install such wooden panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional finishing teams. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
• Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
• High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong impacts. It is not easy to break or damage.
• Lining is not a easily soiled material, but if dirt appears on its surface, you won’t have to put in a lot of effort to remove it.

• It is worth noting the excellent thermal insulation properties of the lining. A room in which such finishing is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
• The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
• Under the lining you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

• This finish can be used not only in suburban or village house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
• Lining can be used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. Floors designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining also has its disadvantages. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to use this material in the design of your home.

• To install the lining, a frame is often required. Most often these installation structures have to contact if we're talking about about finishing ceiling. Also, you cannot do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

• The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, this quality can be corrected if the material is treated with special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
• Over the years, the lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners did not properly care for the finish or installed it incorrectly.
• Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
• It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically looked after, treated with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Kinds

There are several types of lining. They are made from different materials and have different performance characteristics. Let's take a closer look at them.

Wooden

Wooden lining is rightfully recognized as the most popular.

The process of its manufacture is quite complex and occurs in several stages. Of such quality finishing material can be achieved only if you strictly adhere to a certain technology:

• first, the edged board is prepared;
• after that it is dried in a special industrial way;
• then work is carried out on cutting the grooves;
• then the wooden lining is carefully sanded;
• At the end of all production processes, the resulting panels are always sorted.

The properties of wooden lining largely depend on the type of wood from which it is made.

From aspen

Aspen boards are different light shade. They contain practically no resins. Such materials boast good thermal insulation characteristics, so they are often used for interior decoration.

Aspen lining can also be installed in baths or saunas. Of course, in such cases we must not forget about high-quality processing of the material so that it does not rot.

From spruce

As a rule, northern spruce is used to make lining. It is distinguished by fairly dense and hard wood. Such finishing materials can be used to decorate not only the walls of a home, but also the ceiling.

Spruce lining is not afraid of dampness and moisture. However, it is worth considering that over time it changes its color and becomes darker.

From pine

Pine lining is one of the most common. It is inexpensive, but has excellent quality, which is why many consumers choose it.

Pine lining is distinguished by a beautiful natural structure, which also becomes darker over time.

From oak

Oak lining is expensive, but this does not affect its popularity. This finishing material is not subject to rotting and is easy to process.

The main advantages of oak lining are its amazing color and structure. With the help of such finishing you can transform the interior, making it richer and more solid. Experts say that oak lining must be stained and pickled.

Hardwood

Linings from hardwood wood produces virtually no resin and is characterized by low density. Thanks to these characteristics, it can be safely used in the cladding of a bathhouse or sauna.

Wooden lining can have a different cross-section.

• Standard. Such panels are equipped with standard locking system tongue and groove As a rule, the tenons in the lining are always slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that when the wood dries out strongly, deformation of the material does not occur. Panels with a standard cross-section have good sound and heat insulation.
• "Calm". Otherwise, panels with such a cross-section are called “collective farmer”. They have rounded external corners. Such materials look very neat and tidy.
• Eurolining. These types of wooden lining have a longer groove, so as a result the surface takes on a completely different appearance.
• Softline. Such finishing materials also have rounded bevels and a long groove.

Wooden lining is also divided into classes.

• "A". This class includes high quality panels. Small knots are sometimes visible on their surface, but they do not fall out. You can also find several small cracks and cracks on such materials. Class “A” lining can be safely used for interior decoration.
• "IN". Planks of this class are 1.5 m long. There can be no more than 3-4 knots on their surface. Also, these types of lining have small resin pockets and blind gaps. Experts do not recommend using such materials for internal lining.
• "WITH". Materials of this class are not of high quality. As a rule, they are used to decorate outbuildings, for which design is not so important. In such slats, noticeable knots may fall out, and there are often through gaps. Their color is far from standard.
• "Extra".“Extra” class lining is an ideal finishing material. There are no defects on the surface of such panels.

Metal

Instead of wood, you can use metal lining. Most often these facing materials contact us when it is necessary to formalize the basis, which is in the conditions high humidity. Such panels are not afraid of negative external influences and protect the base on which they are installed from them.

Many consumers choose metal lining, since it has an almost unlimited service life. It does not require complex and regular care, which indicates its unpretentiousness.

Metal lining is good because it is presented in a very rich color spectrum. In addition, this finishing material can have different textures.

Advantage metal panels is also that they are non-flammable and do not support combustion. Popular wooden coverings cannot boast of such qualities.

Such materials are also environmentally friendly. They do not contain hazardous compounds that are harmful to human health. You can install metal lining yourself. Moreover, this material can be mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling.

Plastic

If metal and wooden types clapboards seem too expensive to you, then you should look for more affordable plastic options. Such coatings are made from polyvinyl chloride. This material is safe for human health, so you don’t have to worry about the well-being of your household.

As a rule, the width of PVC lining is 10 cm. Wooden elements have similar parameters. Besides, plastic panels can be used not only for interior, but also exterior decoration of the home.

Plastic lining can be not only monochromatic, but also multi-colored. In some stores you can also find more original materials with interesting prints or patterns. Particularly popular today are panels that imitate natural wood.

For exterior finishing It is recommended to use special frost-resistant lining. For its production, special plastic is used, supplemented with the necessary additives. This finishing material easily tolerates both low and high temperatures.

Plastic lining for outdoor use cannot boast such a wide selection different colors. Here, as a rule, monochrome versions of calm tones are used, as well as wood-like coatings.

TO advantages of PVC linings can be classified as:

• heat and sound insulation properties;
• fire safety;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• resistance to mechanical damage;

• moisture permeability;
• light weight;
• affordable cost (especially when compared with natural wooden materials);
• unpretentiousness.

Behind plastic lining no need to regularly care for it using expensive products. In addition, dirt and dust are very easily removed from it.

Preparing the walls

Before installing the lining (especially if it is wooden), it is necessary to properly prepare the walls. After purchase, the lining itself should be placed in a dry room for at least a day. There it should settle and adapt to room temperature. Only after this can you start cutting the finishing material to give it desired length. If you neglect this stage of work, the panels will not be tightly attached to each other.

As for the walls themselves, they will need to provide good vapor barrier. To do this, you first need to nail the slats onto them. Their width should not be less than 3 cm. These elements must be nailed in increments of 1 m. Then you need to take a film of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt and install it on the fixed slats. Small holes should be made at the top and bottom of the vapor barrier to ensure better ventilation.

This stage cannot be called strictly mandatory, but experts recommend using it if we are talking about a room with a high level of humidity from the outside.

Next you need to build a high-quality sheathing for wooden slats. The slats with a cross section of 20x40 cm must be screwed using a screwdriver. Maintain a step of 40-50 cm (horizontally). Always check that all parts are installed correctly using a mounting level.

Using slats, you can properly level the wall before installing the lining. This will make it much easier to attach the boards to the base. In addition, such a frame should also be assembled so that the gap between the ceiling and the wooden finish is ventilated.

If the walls don't have flat surface, then you need to put something additional under the sheathing. You can also build a sheathing of greater thickness. For lining, a sheet of plywood, a wooden block or a mounting wedge is best suited. The sheathing should be secured using long self-tapping screws and dowel nails. The bottom slats should be 5 cm away from the floor, since there will be a plinth in this area. The same indentation should be maintained in the upper part of the structure, since there will also be a plinth there, but this time for the ceiling.

The sheathing must be installed around door or window openings. Such structures are made not only from wood, but also from metal or plastic.

If you did not install a vapor barrier on the base, then the sheathing should be mounted directly to the wall. If it is present:

• if the slats to which the vapor barrier was attached were fixed vertically, then the sheathing parts should be installed horizontally and vice versa;
• The sheathing must be fastened to the slats on which the vapor barrier layer rests using long self-tapping screws.

Insulation should be placed in the “windows” that appear. Experts recommend purchasing mineral wool for this. The insulation should be secured with polypropylene spar so that it does not shrink over time.

Another layer of vapor barrier can be laid on top of the insulation. It should be attached with the rough side to the insulating layer.

Tools

To install the frame and clapboard walls, you must have the following equipment:

• screwdriver;
• hammer drill with the necessary attachments;
• building level;
• hammer;
• mallet;
• jigsaw;
• electric stapler;
• wooden corners;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting gun;
• nails;
• profile (for frame);
• staples.

Mounting methods

In total, there are two main options for fastening the lining. They differ from each other in directions. Let's take a closer look at them.

Vertical

Vertical fastening of the lining occurs as follows:

• The starting part is installed in the corner. To do this, you should use nails, which are then hidden under decorative corner. If you don’t have this item, then you can simply “bite off” the caps with side cutters. Drive nails as carefully and carefully as possible.
• Always check whether you are laying the lining vertically correctly - any errors can lead to the fact that the next lamellas will curve more and more.
• The fixed part must be attached using clamps. After this, you can proceed to installing the remaining lamellas. However, first they need to be inserted into the grooves, and only then fastened.
• Every 5 elements it is necessary to check the evenness of the surface using a level and plumb line.
• The final lamella must be cut to the required dimensions.

Horizontal

To lay the lining horizontally, the following rules must be observed:

• In this case, the slats need to be fixed, starting from the ceiling. The groove should point downwards. If the trim looks like a rounded log, then it should be installed with the groove up to hide the joints.
• The parts should be fastened together according to the same principle as with the vertical installation method. It should be taken into account that for a more reliable fixation, the boards should be lined with dies.
• Gradually going down from top to bottom, it will be much more convenient to attach all the slats using nails. It is very important to hammer them in in such a way as not to damage the front side of the lining.

Calculation of material quantity

When choosing lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material you will need. As a rule, the cost of wooden slats is indicated in square meters(less often in cubic meters). However, a basic mathematical calculation will not work in this case, since the quadrature will be influenced by parameters such as the length of the lamellas, the height of the floors in the house, and the dimensions of door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

• Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that you plan to finish with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add 10-30% for waste to the result. This method of calculation is simple, but not the most accurate.
• Mathematical. This method of calculation is more scrupulous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the dimensions of the openings. To calculate, divide the surface length parameter by the width of the lamella. This way you can determine the required number of linings. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

If you decide to cover the walls of your house with clapboard yourself, then you You should follow some simple recommendations:

• During the installation process, make sure that there are no unsightly gaps between the slats. These defects can be avoided if you constantly monitor the level of placement of the material.
• In calculations required quantity material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. You can also build clapboard slopes with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

• If you want to refresh the atmosphere, then you need to create various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for laying out the lamellas.
• In winter, it is not recommended to lay clapboard on walls. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring so that the material does not undergo deformation.
• If for finishing you have chosen a lining that has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the joining of individual parts.

• Many users are sure that lining can only be installed on metallic profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for cases where the ceilings in the room have too much unevenness and differences.
• The diagonal upholstery of the walls with clapboard looks original. It should be done on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

• After installation, the lining will require regular maintenance. To do this, you will need a wood primer, antiseptic compounds, bio-oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine, which forms a fire-resistant layer, and other similar substances. According to experts, the lining must be processed before its actual installation.
• When choosing suitable material pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe residential premises with some slats, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for interior cladding it is best to use the most quality materials"extra" class.
• Stock up on all the necessary tools in advance. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, do not forget about accuracy. Work carefully so as not to damage the finishing material.
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