There is frost and snow outside, and we can already feel the approach of spring - soon the store shelves will be filled with long-awaited plants, and the receipt of ordered roots and seedlings will begin. For inexperienced flower growers, this time is quite difficult - after all, you don’t just need to purchase planting material, and skillfully preserve it until planting.

When purchasing peonies in the spring, we usually experience very conflicting feelings: we really want to buy them and remember the recommendation to plant them only in the fall. Indeed, we always plant peonies in the fall, because at the end of August - beginning of September, peonies are dug up and divided. In September we plant the purchased peony section on permanent place.

Lately we have been talking more and more often about spring planting. This is explained by the fact that peonies come to us from Europe exactly at this time. Apparently this is more profitable for gardening companies importing peonies to Russia. But there is no reason to worry. Peony has two periods of growth of suction roots - in autumn (August-September) and spring (April-May). If in the fall we plant a piece of wood in the ground, in a permanent place, then in the spring, when we buy it in February-March (at this time, “foreign things” usually arrive), we cannot plant it in the ground - it is still frozen, so we plant it in pots. The size of the pots is 2-3 liters depending on the size of the division. And keep the peonies in a cool, dark place (cellar, basement, glazed loggia, garage) until warm weather. I would like to warn you that in spring you can buy peonies with an open root system no later than the end of March. In April May, as soon as possible, we dig in pots of peonies in the garden. This way they can be kept until autumn. Over the summer, it will be possible to prepare a place for planting, lay planting holes in advance, and then, by transshipment, without disturbing the clod of earth, plant the peony in a permanent place. You can plant it in place without waiting for the fall (as a rule, that’s what I do).

Majestic and lush peonies decorate our gardens in late spring and early summer (depending on the latitude of the region, the flowering time of peonies varies from late April to mid-July). In general, a single peony bush blooms for only 2 weeks, but by selecting varieties with different flowering periods, you can extend this beauty for about 1.5 months. Let me make a reservation right away - the conversation in this article is only about herbaceous peonies and ITO hybrids, care for these types of peonies is absolutely the same ( tree peonies We didn’t even try to grow it, since we heard from the experience of various friends that in the Moscow region this idea is practically useless).

There is no doubt that it is necessary to divide peony bushes in the fall (in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies falls in the second half of August - the very beginning of September). But what to do if, since February, flower shops have been selling cuttings of peonies with all their might, but in September you won’t see them there very much. I am often asked the question: “Is it possible to plant peonies in the spring?” I answer: “It’s possible, you just need to follow certain rules...” I’ll tell you about these rules first.

In spring, peonies are planted in the ground as soon as the ground thaws (not warms up, but rather thaws). The earlier the peony is planted in the ground, the more successfully it will develop further. If you delay planting and wait until the warm days of May, the root will begin to grow above-ground shoots to the detriment of rooting. In turn, young and succulent shoots will begin to pull the last vitality, but he has nothing to feed on - he did not have time to form young suction roots. The result is usually bad experience spring planting of peonies, the depleted root, if it does not die, will not be able to form the correct root system and lay flower buds.

Eat two options for planting peonies in the ground in early spring:

• 1st option ... If you know in advance that you plan to buy peonies in the spring, prepare planting holes for them in the fall, and in the spring quickly plant them immediately in a permanent place.
• 2nd option ... If the purchase of peonies is not planned in the fall, and the planting holes are not prepared (a properly prepared planting hole is the key to success in growing peonies), as soon as the ground thaws, you need to dig the root into any seedling bed before the fall, and prepare the planting hole during the summer , and in early September dig up the root and plant it in a permanent place.

Once again, I’ll make a reservation that in the spring peonies must be planted in cold soil.

If for some reason you cannot get to your beds at the very beginning of the growing season, you can plant the roots in pots and keep them in these pots until August-September. But temperature regime they need to create approximately the same as it would be when planted in the ground, that is, change of day and night temperatures is required , and night temperatures are desirable no higher than +5...+10, and daytime temperatures no higher than +14...+20 degrees. For rooting peonies in pots, unheated terraces and loggias are suitable, and not a window sill in a room. Under no circumstances should you keep containers with spring-planted peonies in a heated room! IN summer time Place pots of peonies in the garden in partial shade, water them as they dry out. You should not be afraid that you are not always at the dacha, and the pots may dry out - peonies can go without watering for a long time, completely drying out the soil in the pots is undesirable, but this is better than the pot floating in a puddle. If, according to weather forecasts, there are only hot and dry days ahead, place the pots somewhere in strong shade and in thick grass, and if cloudy and rainy weather is predicted for a long time, then it is better to put the pots in an open place.

Now let's talk why do peonies need a planting hole, and how to prepare it.

Peonies can grow in one place for up to 25 years, although after 10-15 years the bush should still be divided, since on very old bushes the flowers become much smaller. The peony planting site should not be flooded with spring waters, preferably full sun, but partial shade is also possible. The soil should be rich, well-drained and loose.

Planting holes for peonies must be prepared in advance (for autumn plantings in July, for spring plantings - in the fall). By the time of planting, the soil in them should settle and be slightly compacted. If you plant roots in a newly made hole, there is a high probability that when the soil settles, the root will sink deeper than necessary, and this will affect flowering.

Dig a hole 60 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter (when planting several peonies in a row, it is more advisable to dig a trench; the distance between the centers of the bushes should be at least 70 cm). You set aside the top cultural layer of soil, and simply throw away the deeper layers. In areas with heavy soil, be sure to pour drainage from broken bricks or crushed stone into the bottom of the hole (you can also pour expanded clay, but it’s more expensive...). Fill the lower part of the hole, approximately to the middle, with a mixture of humus (rotted manure or compost), peat, part of the high soil and mineral fertilizers. For one pit it is recommended to add 150-200g of superphosphate, 150-200g of potassium sulfate, and on loams it is customary to add slaked lime in an amount of 150-200g. I myself don’t particularly bother with the grams and names of fertilizers; I usually use the fertilizers that are available in this moment at hand (the main thing is that it is not nitrogen, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; you can also use complex flower fertilizers). A handful of this, a handful of that, a bucket of rotted manure, a bucket of high-moor soil, a bucket of sand (my mother has clay!), a bucket of rotted peat, mixed in a wheelbarrow - and into the hole. Be sure to tamp it down lightly. This layer is a nutrient reserve for the future, when the bush grows and the roots reach the depths.

Prepare the soil for the upper part of the pit in approximately the same way as for the lower part, but you need to add three to four times less mineral fertilizers (sometimes it is advised not to add mineral fertilizers at all to upper layer, but I add it anyway). Fill the hole to the top, maybe with a small mound; as the soil shrinks, the mound will be level with the main surface of the flowerbed. I make sure to stick a strong peg-mark into the center of the hole (we use pegs to mark all future planting sites along the trench). It doesn’t matter when you plant a peony - in spring or autumn - it can be difficult to remember where exactly the center of the hole is, and if there is a peg sticking out of the ground, you can’t go wrong.

If the summer is dry, then it is advisable to water the prepared planting holes occasionally to compact the soil.

Here you go, the holes are ready, they have stood, it’s time to plant peonies. Peony roots rarely come in a convenient, even shape. Basically these are uncomfortable and splayed out crooks. I am often asked the question: “How to position this brace?” In principle, it does not matter how the roots lie in the ground, it is important where the buds appear. Since the buds should be at a depth of 3-5 cm from the surface when planting, we twist the root in our hands and look for the most convenient location for it. If we cannot find a root location in which all the buds will be in the desired plane, we focus on the top one.

It is also necessary that the root lies in the center of the hole exactly where the buds are, and long asymmetrical parts of the root can be shifted to the edge. Note that it is better to place the root horizontally rather than stick it vertically (even if the root looks like a long vertical carrot with buds at one end). Dig a planting hole in the center of the hole according to the size of the root, plant it, filling it with freshly dug soil (no need to add anything, all the food is already in the hole). There is no need to water the planted peony roots unless the weather is very dry. Before planting, it is advisable to treat the roots with any antifungal drug (Maxim, Previkur...), as well as with any root compound.

When planting peonies in spring it often happens that Before planting in the ground, the root has already begun to sprout and has fairly long young shoots. How to plant it then? In the same way, into the cold earth, despite the possible last snowfalls and frosts. But, firstly, do not forget that the buds should be 3-5 cm from the surface (in the case of an already sprouted root, we set aside 3-5 cm from the base of the sprout, the rest of the sprout should look out to the surface). Secondly, we build a shelter over the sprouts sticking out of the ground. The best option– cover the sprouts with a five-liter plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and without a cork, lightly pressing it into the ground. We cover this bottle with white agrospan, the ends of which are pressed to the ground with stones or something similar. Under such shelter, young shoots will feel quite comfortable.

Here you go, We planted peonies, but how to care for them?? In my opinion, peonies do not require any very specific care. We care for peonies in much the same way as all other plants, but there are small deviations:

Feeding. Properly planted peonies practically do not need nitrogen fertilizers (older bushes can be fed with diluted mullein in the spring over time, but in very small quantities and only in May), but peonies must be supplied with mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers both in spring and autumn. Of course, it is more correct to dilute mineral fertilizers in water or embed them dry in the root top layer, but since I have no time to measure grams per bucket, dilute, etc., I do this - in the spring I scatter complex fertilizer marked “spring” around the bushes, approximately a matchbox on a bush, in the fall - “autumn”, during the summer, if possible, I feed everything with wood ash, also scattering it.

Young bushes (planted from the current or last year) must be periodically treated with Epin-Extra or Zircon (spraying on the foliage according to the instructions), these drugs help faster rooting, increase the resistance of young fragile plants to various diseases, viruses and adverse weather conditions. Since I haven’t decided for myself which of these drugs is still more effective, I use them both, alternating treatments.

Watering. Peonies do not like constantly wet soil, so in the Moscow region they often get enough natural rain without additional watering. But, if the summer is still very dry, then the peonies will need watering. Peonies are watered rarely, but accurately - no more than once a week, but a lot. I usually do this - I just put the hose on the flowerbed with peonies (for a couple of hours once every two weeks), move it along it periodically, the water should not rush out, eroding the soil, but should flow slowly and be absorbed without forming standing puddles. Naturally, such watering is only possible on very loose soil. If the soil is heavy, then it is better to pour 2-3 buckets directly onto each bush.

Diseases. I am not very good at peony diseases (as well as plant diseases in general), I have not noticed any terrible diseases in my garden that lead to the complete death of the plant, to the spread of some diseases from a specific place throughout the garden (according to different types plants, for plants of the same species). Yes, plants are often overstressed after transplantation (especially if they are transplanted into open ground namely greenhouse plants), they also do not always feel good after dividing the bushes, many react poorly to sudden changes in temperature (very cold and rainy weather comes after a long heat, watering with ice water in the heat). Usually, after the plant is established in a new place, the immune system is strengthened and the plant begins to grow and develop normally.

I won’t write about how to treat specific diseases (there is a lot about this on the Internet), because I simply don’t know how to treat them. I believe that if the pre-planting treatment of the seedling and soil is carried out correctly, the strengthening of the immune system and the rapid rooting of the young plant are stimulated, then the diseases will recede, they do not affect strong plants.

There are exceptions, of course, they are initially weak, diseased varieties, which no matter how much you treat, they will still get sick (apparently this is genetically embedded in them, they do not know how to resist diseases). Such plants can sit (just sit, not grow) in the garden for years, get sick, but not die. Many people don’t want to bother; they quickly remove underdeveloped plants from the site and forget about them. But there are also many gardeners who are ready to constantly treat some weak, but very beloved variety, and often they manage to get good results - after all, plants also feel love and care.

You can eliminate (reduce) the spread of diseases in peonies in simple ways:

• - do not plant peonies too often, thickening of plantings contributes to the spread of viruses
• - follow the watering regime, under no circumstances water peonies with ice-cold well water in hot weather
• - if the place where peonies are planted is low, the groundwater is close, provide the bushes with very good drainage or even refuse to plant peonies in an area of ​​the garden that is unfavorable for them.

A little about peony propagation

The most common method of propagating peonies is dividing bushes. Peonies are divided closer to autumn; in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies occurs at the end of August - beginning of September. Adult bushes that are at least 5 years old must be divided. First, all shoots are cut off at a height of about 10 cm from the ground, then the entire bush is dug up, the roots are washed from adhering earth using a hose (pressure) and left in the shade under a canopy for 1-2 days. Peony roots are very juicy and fragile; this time is needed so that they wilt slightly and do not break too much when dividing. Then, using a sharp knife and wooden pegs, we try to divide the bush into parts. We trim with a knife, swing with wooden pegs and separate the cut parts from the main bush (the roots of peonies are usually very tangled, so dividing peonies is a downright creative process...). A proper division should have at least 2 buds, as well as thick and thin roots. We carefully cut off the broken places (level them) with a sharp knife and treat them with crushed charcoal(can be used for processing strong solution potassium permanganate or pharmaceutical greens)

If it’s a pity to dig up and chop up an entire bush, but you still really want to propagate the variety, you can grow new seedlings from cuttings with buds. This method is long, but true, and also does not deprive the mother bush of its decorative properties.

The timing of harvesting cuttings coincides with the timing of dividing the whole bush - i.e. very end of summer - early autumn. We find on the bush the shoot that is most distant from the center of the bush (if the bush is large, then several are possible, with different sides). Very carefully we rake out the soil around the shoot and dig down to the buds and the top of the roots. If the soil is very loose, then this is easy to do; if it is dense, you will have to sweat and be persistent, since it is very undesirable to damage the roots, so sometimes you have to rake out the soil almost a teaspoon at a time to accurately determine the location of the root.

Using a sharp knife, we separate the shoot with the bud from the bush, while grabbing part of the root (as much as possible). Sometimes it is possible to separate even a fairly decent section, and sometimes a shoot is obtained with virtually no thick root (it is very desirable that the heel of the thick root is still present on the cutting). On the main bush, be sure to treat the cutting area with crushed charcoal and return the excavated soil to its rightful place. With such minor intervention, the bush will not lose its decorative appearance, and you will acquire viable planting material.

Let's prepare the cuttings for planting - be sure to treat the cuts with crushed charcoal and powder the roots or just the lower part of the cuttings with dry rootstock. The bed for growing such cuttings should be very loose, well-drained, but not too nutritious (that is, there should be a lot of sand in it), you will add nutrition later with watering.

We plant the cuttings in the prepared bed; the bud should be located approximately 3 cm below the surface of the bed. Until spring we don’t do anything with the garden bed - we don’t fertilize, we don’t water... In the spring shoots will appear - the smaller the piece, the weaker the shoot will be, but the main thing is that it exists. Now we need to build up a good root system for it.

In the first year, we actively feed the cuttings with root-forming stimulants. As always, I like to alternate Epin with Zircon; fertilizing is best done by spraying on the leaf in evening time approximately once a week throughout the season. In the fall we add complex mineral fertilizers to the soil, and next spring we start fertilizing with organic matter (diluted mullein, nettle infusion) or diluted mineral fertilizers with a high percentage of nitrogen. It is advisable to carry out three waterings with a difference of 10-14 days during May and early June. In the summer we again stimulate root formation, in the fall we again use mineral complexes...

So we grow cuttings for at least another season, or better yet two seasons, that is, from the time of planting the cutting to obtaining a young, good seedling, in most cases it takes 3 full years (sometimes 2 years, if the root was already very good to begin with).

There is also a way to propagate peonies by cutting green stem cuttings, but I have not tried it, so I will not describe it.

And finally, a few words about what is better to plant next to peonies.

Peonies bloom at their peak at the very beginning of summer. The bush after flowering looks quite decorative due to the carved foliage, but bright colors I want it all summer! If, for example, a peony bush is located in a multi-faceted flower bed, then big problems does not arise - one has faded, the other is blooming. But the flower beds, consisting only of peonies, are simply green for most of the summer. I recommend diluting such flowerbeds with tall perennials that are not prone to strong growth and bloom in the second half of summer. I tried a lot, but, in my opinion, lilies and phlox perform this role best.

Benefits of using lilies:

• - the conditions for growing lilies and peonies are very similar: they do not require frequent watering and nitrogen fertilizing, they are afraid of damping off....
• - can be easily selected high grades lilies with different flowering periods, so the flowerbed will always be blooming

Phlox bloom long and luxuriantly; choosing tall varieties with different flowering periods will not be difficult. Although the agricultural technology of phlox differs from the agricultural technology of peonies, their proximity is still quite possible. Since phloxes are quite moisture-loving, you will have to water the flowerbed more often, but this will not affect the peonies, since the phloxes will very quickly “pump out” the water from the flowerbed. Phloxes need a little more nitrogen fertilizing in the spring than peonies; hilling is necessary in the fall, but if you feed and hill up pointwise, this will also not affect the peonies.

There are a lot of beautiful flowers, but among them I especially want to highlight peonies. Genuine beauty, brightness, color saturation, elegant shape, pleasant aroma... All these qualities characterize this plant. If you are in doubt whether you should plant it on your plot of a private house or in your country house, then do not hesitate! You will definitely fall in love with this one beautiful flower when it decorates your garden with lush color. The most popular way to propagate a flower is by dividing the bush; you can get divisions yourself if you grow the plant in your garden or buy it. This article will tell you how and when to plant a peony seedling in the spring.

Dates for planting peonies in spring

The optimal time for planting a peony seedling in the spring - the moment the roots grow, usually occurs in April and May, so it is advisable to carry out the procedure at this time.

How to choose peony seedlings

When choosing peonies for planting, it is important to pay enough attention to inspecting the root system. The number of renewal buds should vary from 2 to 3. It may be possible to root flowers that have one or two buds, but their development will be slow. Adventitious roots will be needed 5 centimeters long and in quantity of at least two pieces. The bulbs must be healthy and strong, without wounds or signs of disease. The latter include mold, thickening, growths and formations.

You should not take dried seedlings with already blackened buds - naturally, they will not survive any planting, and even growth stimulants will not help them. It is also not recommended to take exotic blue or black peonies - such species do not exist either in nature or from breeders, and therefore will turn out to be a fake. Finally, it makes sense to avoid too low prices- usually there is a marriage hidden behind them. Whether the peony will be able to take root in a new place in the spring can be determined by the state of the root system.

If the earthen lump is covered with white roots, then everything is in order.

The following information should be checked on the packaging: name of the variety, short description crops, quantity of planting material, instructions and quality control mark. After checking the packaging, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the piece. Usually this is not particularly difficult, since peonies are sold in transparent bags. You should not buy peonies if the cutting seems too dry or wet to the touch, the packaging smells unpleasant, or there is a suspicion of infection with cancer or root nematode.

The optimal place and soil for planting peonies in spring

When a peony grows in a brightly lit place, its flowers are large and have a magnificent rich color. A little natural shading at noon is not harmful. But strong is abnormal and uncomfortable for him. It cannot go away without problems and sometimes leads to a complete lack of budding, sometimes even to the death of the plant.

But in relation to soils, peony is quite unpretentious, although it does not like acidic soils. By the way! It should be noted that the most remarkable decorative effect is achieved when the peony grows on cultivated soil or loam (soil with a high clay content and a significant amount of sand), which is capable of receiving and retaining water well. If you are planning to plant a peony nearby groundwater, then their level at the landing site should not be allowed to cross the mark of 0.5-0.7 m from the surface. This is fraught with rotting of the roots of the plant, and consequently, the death of the bush. In such cases, it is necessary to raise the flower beds higher by adding soil.

How to plant peonies in spring

If spring is already in full swing, it’s the end of April or the first half of May, and you bought peonies, try planting them as in the fall, but deeper.

When planting in spring, about 20% of healthy seedlings do not take root. In capricious varieties this percentage is even higher.

• To begin, dig a planting hole measuring 60x60 cm (it is advisable to do this in advance so that the earth has time to settle).
• Place 10-15 cm of drainage at the bottom of the hole, which can be expanded clay, broken brick, coarse sand, Sand and gravel etc.
• Fill the hole with half of the dug fertile soil, 1-2 buckets of compost or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 300-400 g of ash, mix.
• Place a mound of fertile soil in the center of the hole and place a division, distributing the roots.
• Fill the peony seedling so that at least 7 cm remains to the surface, carefully compact the soil with your hands.
• Fill the hole with a bucket of cool water, add more soil if necessary and mulch with peat.
• At first, water the peonies so often that the soil in the hole does not dry out.

Caring for peonies in spring

At first, peonies need to be watered every day so that they take root faster. Otherwise, care is the same as for autumn planting. And although it is believed that “spring” peonies may be slightly behind in growth compared to those planted in September, with timely watering, fertilizing and weeding, you can grow magnificent and healthy bushes.

Over the summer and autumn, the peony should take root and its roots should develop well. If the roots develop poorly, the apical buds will freeze in winter. However, the plant will recover very quickly and begin to grow.

Peony diseases

Most often, peonies are affected by fungal and viral diseases. Among the ailments caused by fungi, the most widespread are gray rot, rust and various types of spots (Figure 1).

Viral infections are represented by tobacco rattle, strawberry ringspot, raspberry ringspot, cucumber mosaic and alfalfa mosaic.

Note: As a rule, flowers are not affected by any one virus. Most often there is a mixed viral infection, which complicates treatment.

The main reason for the development of fungi is high air humidity. Thus, crops are affected by gray mold in cold, rainy weather in spring and summer. But humid, warm weather promotes the development of rust. Factors that increase the risk of fungal diseases are also excess nitrogen in the soil and significant shading of plantings.

Viral diseases affect crops regardless of weather conditions. They can be transmitted from other vegetable and fruit crops such as tobacco, cucumber, raspberry through common garden tools, contact through the soil and spread by insects.

Any ailments garden crops can be determined from the photo, and, accordingly, their treatment can begin depending on the type of pathology and its characteristics.

The peony will bloom in 2-5 years. It all depends on the quality of the seedling, correct landing and plant varieties. Terry varieties take a long time to form a bush, and they have to wait a long time for flowering. The Mountain and Rock tree peonies bloom the fastest. They are unpretentious and suitable for beginner gardeners.

It is best to plant the rhizomes of this beautiful, rose-like perennial flower in the fall - this is the unanimous opinion of both qualified gardening practitioners and printed publications. Why?

The life cycle of a peony bush during the season is such that closer to autumn, when the period of active flowering has ended, buds form in the roots of the peony. next year. It is from these buds that shoots will develop next year. In the meantime, they are in a latent state, and in order to wake up, they need to survive the winter.

Therefore, if next year you need not one bush, but several, at the end of August - beginning of September, the already faded peony bush is freed from useless stems with pruning shears, dug up with an ordinary garden shovel and divided with a knife at the roots into parts, each approximately 10x10 cm in size.

The resulting parts of the rhizome at the cut sites are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. After the sections have dried, the sections are planted in open ground, in holes with a diameter of approximately 50-60 cm and the same depth.

The distance between the holes is at least 80 cm - the peony bushes are spreading, the leaves of neighbors should not interfere with each other’s development. The bottom of the hole is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of drainage (broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone).

You should not think that this is too deep a hole - firstly, the rhizome will have to winter with frosts, often severe, and in the course of evolution the plant has become accustomed to changing extreme conditions to favorable ones. And secondly, the rhizome will be planted 15 cm from the surface of the earth. The rest of the reserve is for putting down roots in depth.

Therefore, a mixture of humus, garden soil, sand and peat is poured over the drainage, and all this is flavored with the following components:

• 1 tablespoon of iron sulfate;
• 1 teaspoon potassium carbonate;
• 1 liter of wood ash;
• 500 grams bone meal

The fertilized soil is poured into the hole in a slide, leaving 10-15 cm to the edges. The root itself with buds is planted at the top of the slide, sprinkled with earth, lightly compacted, a shallow hole is formed and water is poured into it.

Then the hole is covered with a small mound of mulched soil to prevent the planting site from drying out and runoff. excess water to the sides, bearing in mind the heavy and inevitable autumn rains.

In areas where winter is possible very coldy, in the first year, it is advisable to cover the places where the cuttings are planted with a layer of sawdust with a covering on top and soil - so that the wind does not blow them away. When the peony takes root next year and produces the first flower from the new rhizome, then you can no longer add sawdust for the coming winter.

The wintering underground part of the peony in the second and subsequent years of life is frost-resistant.

At the end of March - beginning of April, when the snow begins to melt, the buds wake up and their growth begins: first slowly, and then, as the soil warms up, more and more quickly. So, in May the peony bush already pleases with its blossoming buds

Important! The lower leaf and flower buds of the stems should be approximately 4 cm above the ground level. If they are covered with soil, the bush cannot not only bloom, but also not develop at all.

The opposite may happen: when the soil shrinks, not only will these buds appear high, but the rhizome will not be covered with soil.

Then the bush will become unstable, with strong wind The stems at the rhizome may break off, and, in addition, its drying out will also have a detrimental effect on the general “well-being” of the plant. In this case, it needs to be hilled up by compacting the soil at the base of the bush.

It should also be remembered that propagation of peony by rhizomes is possible only after 5-7 years of bush growth. If you start dividing the root before this time, the plant may die, or you will end up with painful, stunted bushes that require additional care.

Planting a peony in spring

Despite all the advantages autumn planting, establishments selling seedlings, including online stores, most often carry out such trade in the spring. How to resolve this contradiction?

Buy. Only planting awakened rhizomes in the spring has its own characteristics.

• Plant the purchased part of the root with buds in a suitable wide container with slightly acidic soil. The volume of the pot should be 5-6 liters
• Place it in a dark, cool place: a cellar, a cold closet, a locker in the entrance.
• After the first shoots appear, bring the plant into the house, place it on a well-lit windowsill and care for it as you would an ordinary indoor flower.
• After stable warm weather has established, carefully, without damaging the already formed young roots, transfer (preferably along with the soil) the peony to a selected place outside, following the same rules as for autumn planting.

Usually spring peonies do not bloom in the same year, but such careful replanting makes it possible to obtain flowers with a high degree of probability within a month to a month and a half after the day of replanting in open ground.

Reproduction of peonies in spring using layering

This method of propagation is also used in the spring, but at a later stage of the growing season, approximately 14-16 days before flowering. To do this, the outer shoots are buried with their tops in holes pre-fertilized with humus, to a depth of 12-15 cm, secured there with slingshots and watered abundantly.

The places where the leaf cutting attaches to the stem will give rise to roots, and the new shoot will quickly grow outward. After this, the mother stem from the main bush is cut off.

• Study the information about the variety you are purchasing - it may not be suitable for your region. This is especially true for breeding varieties.
• Aesthetic advice: soberly assess the landscape capabilities of the site. Lush, about a meter in diameter, bushes terry variety will look ridiculous near a bathhouse or latrine
• Study the methods and composition of fertilizing. Otherwise, in varieties with large, heavy flowers, the stems, which are poorly developed due to lack of nutrients, will not support these flowers! The bush must receive comprehensive nutrition for all its parts.
• Do not plant peonies closer than 3 meters near the southern walls of buildings or the sides of solid fences: the light and heat reflected from them at noon can kill the plant.

Peony is an unpretentious flower that can grow in any soil. However, if the gardener wants to extract all the capabilities of a variety in terms of its decorative properties, you should carry out regular feeding - different depending on different years life of the bush.

1. First year of life

At the end of April - mid-May, to ensure the growth and development of foliage and stems, apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the root zone. After the buds set, a mullein solution is added, as well as superphosphate and potassium.

Composition of mullein: 1 bucket of manure to 6 buckets of water. The solution is left to ferment for 10 days, stirred once a day. Before use, dilute again with water in a 1:1 ratio.

2. Second year

The emphasis is on foliar feeding. To do this, immediately after greenery appears, the bush is sprayed with a urea solution.

After two weeks, the grown bush is again treated with a urea sprayer with the addition of 1 tablet of microelements.

For the third spraying, just before the start of flowering or after it, 2 tablets and the root growth stimulator “Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin SP” are dissolved in 10 liters.

It is better to remove weak buds at this stage of plant development, leaving 1-2 strong ones - for normal development roots.

3. Third year

The beginning is no longer single, but abundant flowering. Use

• At the first stage - nitrogen-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 15 g of potassium and 10 g of nitrogen per bush in a solution of water around the planting site immediately after the snow melts
• At the second stage, just before flowering, phosphates are added.
• The third stage is the addition of organic matter immediately after flowering. Organic fertilizers contribute for the successful setting of new buds for the next year.

Most perennial flowers easily tolerate spring planting and even prefer it.

With peonies, everything is more complicated. But why are they presented in such variety in stores in the spring, and what to do if you couldn’t resist buying them?

First you need to understand what you actually bought, and then think about the risks and ways to deal with them.

How to choose a quality peony seedling in spring

From February to May, stands with flowers appear in shops, shopping centers, garden markets and even hypermarkets. And peonies are quite frequent guests there. Some are sold in transparent bags, and some are sold in pots with sprouts that have already hatched. Of course, before purchasing another copy for your collection, you need to understand what is being offered to you.

So, if the peony rhizome is in a bag and you can inspect it before purchasing, choose specimens that meet the following requirements:

• no signs of rot or mold;
• the presence of 2-3 adventitious roots at least 5 cm long;
• strong rather than flaccid taproots;
• the presence of 2-3 large bright renewal buds;
• large size of the division itself.

It is better to refuse the purchase if the cutting is wet to the touch or, conversely, too dry, the packaging smells of mold or rot, or there are growths or knot-like thickenings on the rhizome (such planting material may be infected with cancer or affected by a root nematode).

Everything is clear with peonies in bags, but what if you buy a seedling in a pot? In fact, this is done at your own peril and risk, because inside there may be an absolutely non-viable plant, and no one will let you take out and examine a dozen copies. In this case, pay attention to ground part seedling, if it already exists.

The same applies to ordering peonies from online stores or by mail. As soon as you take the item out of the package, inspect it and take photographs from all angles; these photographs will be useful to you if you make a claim for the product.

Dip the cut areas in water - if they remain matte, then the cutting is healthy, and if they shine, it is likely that the roots have rotted. In the second case, cut off the affected area to healthy tissue and treat it with crushed coal.

Ways to plant a peony in spring

Sellers often claim that spring planting of peonies is no different from autumn. They can be understood, because otherwise this dubious product cannot be sold. In fact, planting a peony in the spring is more difficult, and the timing must be chosen correctly, otherwise the bush will not take root, will be sick for a long time, and in the worst case, will die altogether.

Planting a peony in the mud

One of the proven ways to save a peony and give it at least a little time to take root and naturally adapt to the beginning of the new season is very early boarding. It is carried out as soon as the snow melts in the garden and you can dig into the ground, and it works best with small sections of peony.

The essence of the event is simple: a hole is dug in a chosen place, a small amount of sand is poured onto its bottom, a peony root is placed on top and covered with soil. Fertilizers are not applied to the hole; the seedling is buried so that the root collar is covered with 10 cm of soil.

Such a seedling will wake up late, but it will have a greater chance of survival than one that will lie in the house or refrigerator from the moment of purchase until the soil dries out.

Planting a peony in a container

Another surefire way for those who couldn’t resist and bought a peony seedling at an inopportune time is planting it in a container. At the same time, it can be used as a container as a deep flower pot, and trimmed plastic bottle or an old bucket. Peonies take root slowly when planted in spring, so they do not require huge containers.

Immediately after purchase, start planting. Pour light nutritious soil into the selected container (mixture for indoor flowers works great), deepen the seedling 5 cm, water it generously and take it to a cool place. If it's already March, it might be glass balcony or an unheated greenhouse. Make sure that the soil in the pot does not dry out, and when the daily temperature is positive, send the seedlings in containers to the garden.

To begin with, it is advisable to bury the container with the peony in the shade or partial shade so that it is not exposed to direct sunlight.

Closer to the second half of August or in September, you can safely plant the rooted and grown peony in a permanent place.

Recessed peony planting

If spring is already in full swing, it’s the end of April or the first half of May, and you bought peonies, try planting them as in the fall, but deeper.

When planting in spring, about 20% of healthy seedlings do not take root. In capricious varieties this percentage is even higher.

1. To begin, dig a planting hole measuring 60x60 cm (it is advisable to do this in advance so that the earth has time to settle).
2. Place 10-15 cm of drainage at the bottom of the hole, which can be expanded clay, broken brick, coarse sand, sand-gravel mixture, etc.
3. Pour half of the dug fertile soil, 1-2 buckets of compost or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 300-400 g of ash into the hole, mix.
4. Place a mound of fertile soil in the center of the hole and place a division, distributing the roots.
5. Fill the peony seedling so that at least 7 cm remains to the surface, carefully compact the soil with your hands.
6. Fill the hole with a bucket of cool water, add more soil if necessary and mulch with peat.
7. At first, water the peonies so often that the soil in the hole does not dry out.

How to care for a peony after spring planting

Fortunately, if the peony takes root in the spring, it does not require special care. The main thing is to make sure that the soil underneath does not dry out or overheat, but this can be achieved with mulching and regular watering.

In the first two years, there is no need to apply fertilizers to the bush; those that were placed in the hole during planting will suffice. In the third year, peonies begin to bloom and then they need additional nutrients. Feeding is carried out in three stages.

1. The first fertilizing is carried out immediately after the snow melts. At this time, peonies need nitrogen-potassium fertilizers: 10-15 g of nitrogen and 10-20 g of potassium per bush.
2. The second feeding, which occurs during the budding period, should consist of nitrogen (10-15 g per bush), phosphorus (15-20 g) and potassium (10-15 g).
3. The third time peonies are fed 1-2 weeks after flowering (during bud formation), the fertilizer should contain phosphorus (15-20 g) and potassium (10-15 g).

If the peony produces buds in the first two years after planting, they must be removed without allowing flowering. If this is not done, it will form a weak root system and will never reach the desired size, producing no more than 1-3 buds per year.

Otherwise, caring for peonies planted in spring is no different from usual. These bushes take root a little slower and begin to bloom late, but if everything is done correctly, then in the third year they will delight you with their buds.

And yet, planting a peony in spring is a troublesome task and these efforts will not always be justified. Therefore, if in front of you there is no rare variety, and you are not a passionate collector, it is better to postpone the purchase until the fall.