How to glue wallpaper directly to the wall. How to hang wallpaper yourself? step-by-step video instructions. How to measure and cut wallpaper

Despite the abundance of finishing materials, wallpapering walls remains the most common method of decoration. By gluing wallpaper, you can very quickly transform the room: make the room bright, “revive” the interior or place stylish accents.

To get the desired result, you need to choose the right wallpaper and follow all the rules repair work.

Choosing a finishing material: features of different types of wallpaper

The process of wall finishing begins with the choice facing material. If you make a choice in favor of traditional wallpaper, you need to decide the best option. All types of wallpaper presented on construction market, certain characteristics are inherent. Based on the qualities of the material, the conditions of their use and personal preferences, you need to make a choice.

Paper wallpaper- the most popular type of wallpaper in the world. Canvases have many advantages, but when using them, some disadvantages also appear. The main advantages include:

  • loyal pricing policy allows you to frequently update the interior of the room;
  • wide selection of colors and patterns;
  • environmental friendliness and hypoallergenic material - wallpaper is ideal for children's rooms;
  • the material allows air to pass through well, thereby preventing the formation of mold.

Disadvantages of paper products:

  • wallpaper quickly loses its original appearance- fade under the sun's rays, wear out and wear out;
  • most paper wallpaper cannot be washed;
  • This material is not suitable for use in “wet” areas.

Advice. When planning to cover walls with paper wallpaper, it is better to choose modern duplex (two-layer) canvases. They are stronger and less susceptible to contamination. Some duplex wallpaper can be washed.

Vinyl wallpapers. The main advantages of the finishing material: moisture resistance and beautiful appearance. The basis of such wallpaper is non-woven or paper, upper layer processed with polyvinyl chloride. Vinyl wallpapers are available in a wide range of patterns and textures (embossed).

Vinyl coating protects the decorative finish from sunlight, moisture and reduces the attraction of dust. This wallpaper is best suited for the hallway, bathroom and kitchen. Most PVC sheets are suitable for painting.

Flaw vinyl wallpaper- poor permeability. PVC film does not allow air to pass through, the walls do not breathe. As a result, the microclimate in the room worsens, the room must be ventilated more often.

Important! Some manufacturers use innovative technologies and produce wallpaper with a vinyl coating that has a porous structure. This allows the material to allow sufficient air to pass through.

Vinyl wallpaper is not cheap, but its high cost is fully compensated by its long service life - the coating retains its decorative effect for up to 10 years.

Today, several types of vinyl wallpaper are used:

  • hard vinyl covering- a hard base is applied to the base, capable of withstanding significant mechanical damage;
  • smooth vinyl coating - forms a smooth, even surface that is more susceptible to damage;
  • silk-screen printing is one of the most spectacular types of wallpaper; hot stamping technology creates the impression that the wallpaper contains natural silk threads;
  • foamed vinyl - considered the most durable and dense, thanks to its deep relief structure.

Non-woven wallpaper are made on the basis of cellulose and consist of 2 layers: non-woven fabric and polymer coating. The combination of the two layers resulted in the following characteristics:

  • high strength - non-woven wallpaper is stronger than textile and paper wallpaper;
  • the ability to hide wall unevenness and microcracks;
  • wallpaper is easy to apply - if the technology is followed, the material will not deform or bubble;
  • air passage;
  • choice of wallpaper texture - embossed or smooth;
  • wallpaper fits well on plaster, wood, cement, slabs and other materials.

Important! A distinctive feature of non-woven wallpaper is that it is attached to a wall covered with glue.

Textile wallpaper are produced on the basis of flezilin and paper. Above base layer covered with textiles (jute, polyester, linen, cotton, etc.). It is the top layer that largely determines the final cost of the finishing material. Fabric wallpaper not only plays a decorative role, it also has noise and heat insulation properties.

With the help of such wallpapers you can create original interior. However, they also have negative sides:

  • demanding when gluing - it will be difficult for an inexperienced craftsman to complete the work;
  • intolerance to wet cleaning limits the scope of use of textile wallpaper.

Fiberglass wallpaper - wall covering made from glass fibers different thicknesses followed by impregnation. Glass wallpaper - unique finishing material, which has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • fire properties;
  • naturalness and safety of use;
  • high strength and resistance to any damage;
  • durability - service life of about 30 years;
  • repel dust and are easy to clean;
  • Due to the fabric structure, air is allowed to pass through.

How to properly glue non-woven wallpaper: step-by-step instructions

Preparing the base

The process of pasting any wallpaper, including non-woven wallpaper, begins with careful preparation walls This stage takes a lot of time, but the final result largely depends on the quality of its implementation. What events are required? The previous coating from the walls must be removed and the surface leveled.

Removing old wallpaper. To soften the coating, you can use a regular soap solution. To improve the effect, it is advisable to add a little wallpaper glue. Washable old or very thick wallpaper must first be trimmed a little, scored, and then moistened with soapy water. After this treatment, leave the wallpaper for a while - the coating will swell and can be easily removed with a spatula.

Sometimes the procedure has to be repeated several times. To make it easier to remove wallpaper, you can purchase a special product designed for this purpose - the solution is well absorbed and “softens” the material.

Enamel removal and old paint . In “Khrushchev”, “Stalin” and Brezhny era apartments, walls covered with paint are often found. If the coating peels off well, then it is cleaned off with a spatula. However, in the vast majority of cases, removing old paint requires a lot of effort. The enamel is tapped with a hatchet and cleaned off using a flat cutter or chisel.

Removing whitewash. Water-based emulsion paint or whitewash is pre-moistened with soap and water and then removed with a spatula. Thin layer old whitewash washes off easily with hot water.

The next step is leveling the walls. All irregularities, cracks and other defects must be plastered or puttied. If the surface crumbles and crumbles, it is advisable to treat it with a bonding primer.

Necessary tools

To complete the work you will need:

  • roulette;
  • laser level or vertical plumb line with cord;
  • roller with long pile;
  • brush for smoothing wallpaper;
  • plastic spatula with a soft edge for rolling wallpaper;
  • construction knife for cutting wallpaper;
  • metal spatula (narrow);
  • foam sponge;
  • glue tray;
  • pencil;
  • ladder.

Calculation of material and marking of walls.

To calculate the required amount of wallpaper, you should know the dimensions of the room. As a rule, the height of the ceilings ranges from 2.5-2.8 m, the length of the roll is 10 m. That is, one roll should be enough for three strips. Knowing the width of the roll and the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate total stripes

Most non-woven wallpapers have smooth, high-quality edges. That's why they are glued end to end. At the same time, the connection of the panels looks like a single solid surface. To facilitate further work, it is advisable to apply markings.

From the corner of the room, at a distance equal to the width of the roll (0.5 - 1.2 m), draw a vertical line. Use a level to check evenness. Lines are drawn along the entire wall.

Stages of wallpapering

Important! Before cutting the next panel, you should measure the height of the walls in different places, for example, every 30-40 cm. Very often the walls have differences and the length of different cuts can differ significantly from each other.

If the wallpaper has a large pattern, then it must be selected. You can check the fit size from the pictogram on the label. When marking and cutting, it is important to control that the image matches and that you do not have to add a piece of canvas from the bottom or top.

For example, if the required fitting size is 48 cm, and the ceiling height is 2.5 m, then the length of each blank will be 2.88 m. According to the rules for “cutting” wallpaper, the length of the blank must be a multiple of the fitting size, i.e. 48 cm, but not less than the height of the room.

After making the calculations, you can start cutting. Cover the floor plastic film and roll out the roll front side down. Measure the length of the cut (in our example - 2.88 m) and make a notch with a knife. Using a long ruler, bend the wallpaper at the level of the notch, check the evenness of the fold and cut off the sheet.

Spread the next sheet and check the fit of the drawings of the two canvases. If the workpieces fit together well, then you can cut.

Glue preparation. For wallpapering you need to choose adhesive composition, corresponding to the type of material: paper, vinyl, non-woven fabric, textile or fiberglass. Before mixing the glue, read the instructions.

General procedure for preparing glue:

  1. Pour the dry mixture into a mixing container.
  2. Gently introduce water into the powder in a thin stream, stirring with a whisk.
  3. Leave the mixture to sit and stir again, removing any lumps.

Wallpapering. Direct pasting of walls is carried out in the following sequence:


How to glue wallpaper correctly: video

How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper: nuances of doing the job

The procedure for gluing vinyl sheets is not much different from gluing non-woven wallpaper. However, several nuances can be highlighted:

  1. The choice of glue must be approached responsibly. Vinyl wallpaper has the ability to stretch when glue is applied and shrink after it dries. A poor-quality adhesive composition may not cope with such a load and the seams will simply come apart.
  2. When gluing, a moderate amount of glue is applied to the walls to prevent excessive stretching of the canvas.
  3. In some cases, it is allowed to apply glue not only to the surface of the wall, but also to the canvas itself.
  4. Particular attention is paid to the seams. They must be carefully rolled out with a roller so that they do not come apart.

How to glue wallpaper correctly: photo of the joining of the canvases

How to properly glue paper wallpaper: features of cutting and gluing

The technology for covering walls with paper wallpaper depends on its type: simplex or duplex. Single-layer simplex wallpaper is applicable only for perfectly smooth walls - the canvas is very thin and all the cracks and holes will be visible through it. The installation of such wallpaper is done with an overlap. Duplex is glued end-to-end only.

The main requirement that must be met when working with paper wallpaper: after applying glue to the sheet, it must be left to “mature” for 2-7 minutes (the time depends on the density of the material).

When cutting wallpaper, pay attention to the presence of an edge. Some foreign manufacturers They produce wallpaper with an edge only on one edge, domestic ones - on both. For thick wallpapers that are glued end-to-end, the border is cut off on both sides; for thin wallpaper, on one side. It is convenient to cut the edge on a chair - the unnecessary edge is removed, and the wallpaper is rolled back into a roll.

Another nuance when working with classic wallpaper- decoration of walls with borders. You can glue the decor only after completely dry wallpaper It usually takes 12-32 hours for the paper to dry. This period depends on the amount of glue applied, the density of the material and room conditions.

How to wallpaper corners correctly

Pasting the outer corner:

  1. Measure the distance from the last strip of wallpaper pasted to the corner.
  2. Cut a sheet of wallpaper whose width is 2.5 cm larger than the measured distance.
  3. Glue the strip, bending the excess wallpaper to the opposite angle.
  4. At right angle the remainder is glued end-to-end, in other cases - overlapping along the vertical markings.
  5. Use a sharp knife to go along the corner, applying a ruler. At the same time you need to press the edges. Remove trimmings.

Finishing internal corner:

The main rule: you should never lay a whole piece of wallpaper on a corner. If this condition is neglected, then folds and bulges are formed.

  1. Measure the distance from the corner to the last strip of wallpaper and add 2 cm.
  2. Cut the desired piece of wallpaper and glue it to the wall, taking the corner.
  3. Press the paper firmly against the wall by running a blunt object across it.
  4. Seal the remaining piece with a cut with a slight overlap onto the adjacent wall.
  5. Apply a ruler to the joint of the walls and run a knife, removing excess material.

How to glue wallpaper end-to-end in the corners: video

How to properly glue fiberglass wallpaper

When gluing with glass wallpaper, it is important to follow some rules:

  1. The glue is applied to the wall, not to the canvas.
  2. To work you need to use glue for severe types wallpaper
  3. At first glance, fiberglass wallpaper has equivalent surfaces, but this is not so. Front side, according to international standards, in a roll facing inward. The reverse side of some manufacturers is marked with a blue or gray stripe.
  4. The time for complete drying of glass wallpaper is 24 hours.
  5. After drying, the wallpaper can be decorated and painted. It is advisable to pre-prime the surface - this contributes to economical use decorative material and paints.

  1. Before wallpapering walls or ceilings in damp rooms, the surface must be treated fungicidal mixture- this will protect the coating from the appearance of fungus.
  2. The readiness of the walls before gluing can be checked experimentally:
    • Glue a piece of polyethylene to the wall with tape;
    • leave the cellophane for a day;
    • if after 24 hours perspiration appears inside the film, it means it is too early to start pasting; if the cellophane remains dry, then the wall is completely dry and ready for further finishing.
  3. To avoid the appearance of wrinkles and bubbles, pasting must be performed under the following conditions:
    • It is advisable to perform work at a temperature of 23-25°C;
    • walls that have just been covered with wallpaper must be protected from drafts until the coating is completely dry;
    • It is extremely undesirable for the wallpaper to be exposed to sunlight.

How to properly wallpaper a ceiling: video

Wallpapering is not easy painstaking work, but a real test, especially for those who took it on for the first time and on their own. How to glue wallpaper correctly so as not to redo everything several times? This process is divided into stages: choosing wallpaper, preparing tools, cleaning and leveling the surface, gluing wallpaper, taking into account difficult places. Let's find out!

Types of wallpaper

It’s not for nothing that wallpaper is the most popular material for wall decoration. Firstly, they are affordable, environmentally friendly and safe. Secondly, they are relatively easy to install, you can handle gluing them yourself - this is also the reason for choosing the material. And wallpapers are distinguished by a huge variety of colors, patterns and designs, so you can always find a suitable sample for any interior.

When choosing wallpaper, the question arises: which is better? Let's look at their types:

  1. Paper- most a budget option. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly and safe. However, their popularity is gradually falling, and here’s why: they are not moisture resistant, difficult to clean, and quickly lose their neat appearance. It is difficult to glue them so that the seams are not noticeable.
  2. Vinyl- highly durable, easy to clean with a damp cloth, suitable for rooms with high humidity. However, due to their thickness, they are quite difficult to glue.
  3. Non-woven wallpaper Not only do they look beautiful on the wall, but they are also convenient for gluing with your own hands: there is no need to apply glue to this material.
  4. Textile- non-woven fabric. Such samples are chosen for extremely smooth surfaces, since textiles emphasize unevenness.
  5. similar in appearance to decorative plaster, but when dry they cannot be distinguished from ordinary ones. Benefit liquid wallpaper- absolutely no seams! But their cost is much higher than usual, and applying them correctly requires certain skills.
  6. Acrylic- foamed acrylic applied to paper.
  7. Natural wallpaper made from veneer, reed, bamboo, cork, seaweed. The basis is paper. These are 100% environmentally friendly materials.
  8. Glass wallpaper- fiberglass wallpaper. They are durable, have good sound insulation, and prevent fungal growth.
  9. Photo wallpaper- a win-win way to enliven the interior, but they are quite difficult to install.

What you will need

How to glue wallpaper for non-professionals who have no idea about this process at all? The first step is choosing wallpaper. The second is preparing the tools. You will need:

  • wallpaper glue,
  • bucket,
  • wallpaper spatula,
  • roller,
  • plumb line,
  • brushes,
  • construction knife.

Advice! To avoid running to the store for an extra roll, calculate the amount of wallpaper per room in advance. A standard roll contains 10 m. If the ceiling height is no more than 2.5 m, then the roll is enough for 4 cuts.


How to determine the number of wallpapers:

  1. Measure the perimeter of the room.
  2. Measure the width of the roll.
  3. Divide the perimeter by the width. Happened required amount cuts.
  4. Divide the number by the number of cuts on the roll. You determine it in advance, depending on the height of the ceiling. Happened required quantity rolls This method is suitable for wallpaper without a pattern.
  5. To calculate the amount of patterned wallpaper, add 30 cm to the ceiling height. This margin is needed for adjustment.

To make the calculation more accurate, it is more convenient to use not the perimeter, but the area (the length of all walls multiplied by their height). From the total area of ​​S1 you will need to subtract the area of ​​all door frames And window openings, built-in wardrobes and other non-pasted areas: S 1 - S neocl. = S result. The resulting area will again need to be converted into a perimeter, and for this, divided by the height of the walls. This last digit ( P total.) and will allow you to more accurately calculate the required number of rolls, and you will not have to throw away huge scraps, or even a whole roll.


Preparing for gluing: clean the wall

How to glue wallpaper so that it looks neat? Everyone understands that it is not enough to simply smear the walls with glue and stick paper on top. What needs to be done to prepare the walls for gluing? If you are renovating new apartment, then half of the work can be skipped - they are not necessary.

The first step is to remove the previous layer of wallpaper.

Advice! You should not glue new wallpaper over old ones. The old layer may peel off and blister when exposed to moisture. Visually, the walls will not be perfectly smooth.

To delete old layer, prepare a spatula, rags and soap solution. Wipe the walls with rags soaked in the solution. The wallpaper will come off well when exposed to moisture. Go over them with a spatula or knife. Now you can assess the readiness of the wall: all the dimples and irregularities have become visible.


What about painted walls? It is also advisable to remove paint. There are two ways to do this: mechanical and chemical. The first one is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming, so it is better to give preference to special washes. The gel is applied to the surface, after a while the paint begins to bubble and come off, and can be easily removed with a spatula. Work with such compounds is carried out in ventilated areas; use protective gloves and a mask.

Putty, primer

The next stage is sealing the unevenness. If they are minor, then you can solve the problem yourself. You will need a leveling mixture - putty. If the walls are hopelessly crooked, then it is better to turn to professionals who will level them with drywall or plaster.


First, remove all nails, screws, remove any remaining wallpaper and dust. If the walls are more or less even, then only dents and chips are repaired. Sometimes it is necessary to cover the entire wall with putty. Gypsum putty is taken and applied to the wall in a thick layer of up to 5 mm. When it dries, irregularities are removed using a special mesh. Then the second layer is applied, it is thin - about 1 mm.

A layer of primer is needed to create a film on the surface of the wall to reduce the absorption of the adhesive. You can use wallpaper glue as a primer, just in a different proportion. Typically, glue packages indicate how much of the substance should be used for gluing, and how much for primer. The walls are covered with the composition using a roller, the corners - with a brush.


How to glue: end-to-end or overlapping?

The appearance of the entire room depends on the correct connection of the pieces of paper. How to glue wallpaper correctly: butt or overlap? It depends on the material. Thick wallpapers, such as vinyl, are placed end to end. Thin paper samples can be overlapped, but the seam will not stand out on them.

A few secrets of wallpapering butt joints:

  1. To prevent the joints from opening, carefully coat the edges with glue.
  2. After joining, additionally go over the edges with a roller.
  3. Use special tape for joints. It helps avoid peeling edges. Stick it on the joint and wait until it dries.
  4. Under the influence of glue, the paper may stretch. As a result, after drying, precisely fitted seams fall apart. To avoid this trouble, do not pull the wallpaper, let it lie on the wall naturally.


Using the overlapping method will help if cut edges are joined. Naturally, they cannot be equal. While the glue is still wet, run a sharp utility knife around the joint. Now you have perfectly tailored wallpaper. Interestingly, in this way the joint can be formed not only vertically.

Pasting wallpaper: algorithm of actions. Adjusting the pattern

When the primer has dried, you can start gluing. Be careful at every stage so as not to redo an already difficult job.

  1. First, let's make the markings. Step back 15 cm from the corner of the room and use a plumb line to draw a straight vertical strip.
  2. Plain wallpaper can be cut immediately. Both a large table and the floor are suitable for work. Just make sure it is clean in advance, or even better, lay down plastic wrap.
  3. Roll out the roll, measure desired length, add a few cm for allowance. Now bend the strip and carefully cut it using a knife.
  4. Dilute wallpaper glue in a bucket strictly according to the instructions.
  5. Glue is not applied to all types of wallpaper. For example, .
  6. Also coat the wall with glue if the instructions require it.
  7. Using a brush, apply glue to the strip. Now fold the edges towards the center and leave for a few minutes until the paper is saturated.
  8. Unstick the cut and glue it under the ceiling. Make sure that the edge aligns exactly with the markings. Using a roller, go over the wallpaper from the center to the edges to remove excess air. It is advisable to immediately remove any glue that protrudes from under the cut using a damp cloth.
  9. Now straighten the bottom of the strip. Go over it with a roller in the same way. Trim the bottom edge with a sharp knife.
  10. Place the next strip on the wall in the same way. Make sure the edges of the strips touch tightly.
  11. Apply all seams with a roller so that they stick well. If the manufacturer has indicated that you cannot use a roller, then gently press the edges with your fingers.


How to properly glue wallpaper with a pattern? Everything is the same, only before cutting the roll into strips, you need to mark it taking into account the pattern. Or make the cuts longer than the height of the walls, and start selecting them during the gluing process.

How to beautifully cover corners, doors and windows

The corner is considered the most difficult section. How to make it even? If the wallpaper is thin, then this method will do:

  1. Glue the first strip so that it overlaps the adjacent wall by 2 cm.
  2. Place the next strip clearly at the corner.

If the strip is too noticeable, then you can do this:

  1. Both cuts are placed in the corner so that there is a protrusion of 2-3 cm.
  2. Then you need to carefully press the layering area.
  3. Take a spatula or a special cutter. We press the tool in the corner and use a sharp knife to run it along the wallpaper.
  4. To get a clean cut, the knife must move continuously. Don't lift the knife, just pause while moving the spatula.
  5. Now all that remains is to remove the excess and join the cuts in the corner.


Doors and windows that are flush with the wall are quite easy to cover. We take the strip and glue it to the ceiling, then make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the corner of the platband. Bend the cut parts along the opening and cut off with a sharp knife. But with gluing the slope the situation is more complicated. Method for paper wallpaper:

  • glue one strip onto the slope with a protrusion of 1 cm;
  • We glue the second strip on top exactly along the line of the opening.

At what temperature should you glue wallpaper and why should you not open windows?

It’s always easier to call specialists who will do all the work, but for your laziness you will have to pay, at best, twice as much. But you can just study the issue and save a lot on it! To avoid disappointment when we glue everything ourselves, consider not only the readiness of the walls, the quality of the glue and the type of wallpaper, but also the surrounding conditions. From temperature regime, largely depends on the result of the work.

Important! Never glue wallpaper in a cold room.

If the temperature of the walls is below +5 degrees, they will quickly fall off. Optimal temperature considered +15 degrees.


Advice! To obtain a lasting result, the room must be warmed up 2 days before gluing and for 10 days after. Is it possible to do wallpapering in winter? Yes, if the heating system is already running. If not, then you can use heating devices.

Start work at a humidity of no more than 60%. If the air humidity is high, the wallpaper may bubble and peel off.

How to fix problems

Often, after drying, a defect is discovered: bubbles have formed under the wallpaper. Fortunately, this is easy to fix. We will need a syringe and glue. Take a little glue with a syringe, then pierce the bubble and squeeze out a certain amount of glue, depending on the size of the bubble. If the wallpaper is paper, wait 5 minutes; if it is non-woven, act immediately. You need to use a rag or roller to distribute the glue inside, then move from the edge of the bubble to the puncture site to remove excess glue.


The second popular problem is that wallpaper comes off at the seams, under the ceiling and above the baseboards. You can use a small brush and leftover wallpaper glue, or buy a special tube to precisely apply the adhesive mass onto the problem areas. Proceed in exactly the same way as in the case of a bubble. Using a roller or clean rag, spread the glue under the wallpaper and leave it to dry.

Wallpaper can be glued both to the walls and to the ceiling. Surface preparation is carried out in the same way as for a wall. It's better not to take on this matter alone. To avoid uneven joints, have someone watch from the side. Start gluing the wallpaper from the window, it’s easier to see.

There is wallpaper that can be painted. They are made on a vinyl or non-woven base. The paint chosen is acrylic water based- it fits well and does not spoil the texture. The rule for applying paint to wallpaper is: after gluing, let it dry for at least a day.


Photo wallpapers can decorate any interior. Just select an image: sea coast, blooming garden, a bustling city square or a brooding forest. Photo wallpapers also have the property of making the space visually wider. Gluing them on yourself is quite a difficult task. This will require special glue, a perfectly flat surface and extreme precision. After the glue is applied to the photo wallpaper, it must be immediately glued to the wall.

A few tips to make your work easier:

  1. To have as few joints as possible, use wide wallpaper. Rolls with a width of 1 m or more are available for sale.
  2. Be sure to turn off the electricity while gluing. Reason - " high humidity» works
  3. Wear clothes with wide pockets that can easily accommodate rollers and brushes.
  4. For best results, always follow the instructions on the wallpaper and adhesive.

Now you know the basic rules of working with wallpaper and you can cope with gluing it without making money breakdown. Happy renovation!

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Rarely does an apartment renovation complete without wallpapering. This universal look decorative coating is suitable for any interior; it is loved for its ease of installation and ideal appearance.. In this article we will tell you how to correctly build an algorithm for working with wallpaper: from preparing walls and choosing tools to final finishing of the seams.

Wallpaper is a covering that is found in every second modern apartment

Doing it yourself is not a difficult task, especially if you have everyone necessary tools. People with experience make do with a brush and roller, but for a beginner, other devices may be useful:

  • paint tray and roller for applying glue. It is better to select a roller with medium-length pile, and the dimensions of the bath should correspond to the roller. You can replace it with a wide brush with a comfortable handle. In addition, keep a small brush on hand for taping seams;
  • rubber roller for smoothing streaks on the wall and removing air bubbles on thin wallpaper. For thick people, instead of a roller, you can use ;
  • roller with a roller for pressing the canvas in the inner corners;
  • container for diluting glue: it is better to use a large saucepan or bucket with a lid. Sealed containers will keep the glue ready for use for several days;
  • drill or construction mixer for mixing glue. If we are talking about a small amount of work, you can do it manually;
  • pencil, long ruler, tape measure and scissors for marking and cutting fabrics. You can use a construction knife for cutting - the edges will be smoother;
  • plumb line or building level to mark the vertical line from which you will glue the wallpaper;
  • a sponge to remove excess glue and a dry rag to remove debris.

In addition to the wallpaper itself, you need to prepare glue. The composition is selected according to the type of coating. You can buy glue at the store and dilute it according to the instructions.

Note! Instructions for preparing the glue are located on the packaging. It indicates the proportions of water and powder, glue consumption per square meter of surface and the specifics of application.

The preparatory stage before sticking wallpaper on the wall with your own hands

Don’t rush to start wallpapering right away. It’s not enough just to purchase tools and materials, you also need to carry out preparatory work. Examine the condition of the walls, remove the old coating and carefully prime the surface.

How to remove old coating from walls

If the walls were previously decorated with wallpaper, they need to be removed. In most cases, the material comes off easily, but if you have pieces or entire strips left that cannot be torn off, you will have to use special tools. Compositions for removing old wallpaper can be bought in the store, but it is cheaper and easier to make such a mixture yourself. The recipe is simple: add dishwashing detergent and a little wallpaper paste to warm water. Using a sponge, apply the product to the wallpaper and leave for half an hour until the coating softens.


If the old wallpaper is very thick or has a corrugated surface, you need to cut it with a knife before soaking it so that the moisture penetrates deeper. It’s more difficult if the wall covering is paint, which you definitely need to remove. A simple water-based emulsion can be easily removed with the same soap mixture and a spatula. But oil or alkyd enamel will have to be cleaned with a drill with an attachment - a brush or sandpaper manually.

How to level walls and sand the surface

Preparation for pasting continues with the process of leveling the walls. The old wallpaper could have fallen off along with pieces of plaster, this often happens. These areas will have to be re-plastered. Sometimes the surface after paint removal becomes uneven, with potholes and other defects.

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Ask a Question

“Any leveling of walls is accompanied by the formation large quantity garbage and dust. Remember to use a respirator to protect your respiratory tract and close doors to other rooms."

Primer of walls

Don't neglect priming the walls. If you skip this preparation stage, you risk getting an extremely unpleasant result - the wallpaper will simply peel off. In addition, the primer will even out the color of the wall, and the gray concrete will not show through under the thin coating. The primer mixture will fill the voids in the porous surface, you will use less glue.

For walls made of concrete and wood, use a universal acrylic primer. It is easy to apply, diluted with plain water and dries quite quickly.

For your information! Unscrupulous sellers may offer you a PVA glue solution instead of acrylic primer. Be careful, the compositions are very similar in appearance, but the glue has a specific smell.

For walls made of wood, plywood, or you can use alkyd primer. It takes a long time to dry - almost a day, but provides excellent adhesion even for heavy wallpaper. Metal walls are treated with glyphthalic primer, similar to enamel. Only she guarantees you high-quality coating. The same primer can also be used for plastic. This coating will dry overnight. Another option for a mixture for metal is perchlorovinyl primer, but it is not recommended for use in residential premises due to its high toxicity.

How to glue wallpaper correctly - basic techniques

After you have prepared the walls well before the main stage of work, you need to decide a few important issues: where to start gluing, how to properly cut wallpaper and paste it in difficult and hard-to-reach places.

Related article:

interesting solutions for the living room, bedroom, children's room, kitchen and corridor. Read our review for the basic rules for selecting canvases and designers’ recommendations.

Where to start gluing wallpaper and how to adjust the pattern

Elder relatives, wise from their own experience, will tell you that you need to glue wallpaper from the window. Indeed, old paper panels were glued this way for one simple reason: the joints were made overlapping, and so that when natural light the seams were not conspicuous; they should have been directed away from the window. Modern manufacturers They offer panels that are glued end-to-end. Such seams are less noticeable, but they require a perfectly flat base. So the question of where to start work becomes less relevant: start from any side on which it is convenient for you to draw a vertical line, and glue in a circle.

Please pay attention to several important nuances:

  • what the wallpaper will look like in the opening between the windows. It is not always good if a seam is placed in a narrow opening;
  • where the furniture will be located. If you plan to install wallpaper and not place it behind it in order to save money, you need to decide on a starting point;
  • if you plan to place it on one of the walls, you need to accurately measure the location of the picture and continue pasting from this place.

The first canvas is the most difficult task. It is important to place it strictly vertically so that the slightest distortion does not later ruin the entire work.

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

“If you use a plumb line, rub the rope with chalk or paint. Secure the upper end of the plumb line and slightly pull the lower end - the paint will remain on the wall and indicate the desired line.”

Most often, rooms in apartments have imperfect angles. Therefore, it is better to mark the vertical on each wall. Wallpaper gluing technology requires adjusting the pattern. The fashionable decoration features complex patterns and bright images. You should know that on the wallpaper packaging, manufacturers indicate the offset distance to adjust the pattern. But in practice, it is easier to do the adjustment manually, visually matching the pattern. And this should be done not only at the stage of cutting the canvases, but also during the process of gluing them.

Video: wallpapering with a large pattern

Glue on wallpaper or on a wall - how to apply it correctly

The answer to this question depends on what type of wallpaper you chose for your renovation. If at your disposal paper wallpaper, the glue is applied directly to the canvas. For reliable gluing of thick vinyl or non-woven coverings, the adhesive composition is applied to both the wallpaper and the wall. Non-woven wallpaper can be glued without applying the composition to the canvas, limiting itself only to wall treatment.

How to properly glue wallpaper in the corners of a room

Most often in the process of work you have to deal with internal corners. Here you should make sure that the strip covers the corner and a few centimeters beyond it. Even if the canvases are glued end-to-end, you need to overlap in the corners. This is the only way you will get an even angle. Use a level or plumb line as a guide. To prevent the overlap from being noticeable on thick wallpaper, after gluing, cut both layers along a ruler with a sharp knife, and while the wallpaper is still wet, remove excess stripes from one side and the other. If necessary, add glue using a small brush.

You will also have to tinker with the outer corners. They are rarely perfectly even, so here you also need to use an overlap of 3 centimeters. After the first canvas has been glued, you need to trim it, leaving a thin edge at the corner. The second strip is aligned vertically on the other wall and secured so that there is minimal overlap on the first strip. How to properly glue wallpaper in corners in a short video course.

How to glue wallpaper near windows, doors and behind the radiator

So, you are gluing wallpaper with your own hands, and you have reached. Feel free to fasten the new canvas so that it forms an overhang on the window. If you need to seal the slopes, make two horizontal cuts and fold the panel over. If it does not reach the frame, you will have to make another cut, preferably joining it at the corner (see gluing technology external corners, described above).

- a serious obstacle. You won't be able to place wallpaper behind them, so you'll have to cut them off. This must be done so that it is not noticeable what is behind the battery bare wall. To do this, leave a part of the canvas so that it extends 10 centimeters onto the radiator, and then tuck it behind the device, pressing and smoothing it with a spatula. How to properly hang wallpaper behind the battery yourself in the video.

How to make joints invisible

Why can seams between panels remain noticeable? There are several reasons for this effect:

  • defective coloring of the edge of the wallpaper. A minimum strip of tenths of a millimeter without paint can cause the seams to be visible;
  • an error in gluing the canvas - skewed to one side leads to minimal overlap or the appearance of a gap;
  • poor adhesion of the material to the base; part of the strip may fall behind due to an air bubble.

It happens that you noticed a marriage too late, what to do? There are several ways to disguise a seam so that it becomes invisible. If there is an unplanned overlap, you just need to cut through both sheets as when working with internal corners and remove the excess strips.

Important! To ensure that the edges of the wallpaper stick tightly to the base, additionally coat them with glue and roll them with a rubber roller.

Noticed uneven edge paint? It is best to return such wallpaper to the store, it is a defective product. If for some reason this is not possible, for example, you bought the material in another city, then try cutting off the unpainted edge. It's complicated, and new joint problems will inevitably arise. It is best to do this during the gluing process, deliberately making an overlap and cutting off the edge already on the wall. An alternative to this method is to use paint that matches the color. It is better to take a color half a tone darker.

How to properly apply different types of wallpaper

The wide range of wallpaper in modern stores includes products not only for every taste, but also for every budget. You can limit yourself to buying cheap wallpaper on paper based or purchase more expensive non-woven or vinyl options. Is there a difference in the sticker? different types wallpaper?

How to properly glue paper wallpaper

Paper is an inexpensive and environmentally friendly coating. Experts advise applying glue to the panels when gluing paper trim. Keep in mind: the paper quickly absorbs the glue, so you will have to work very quickly, otherwise the strip will get wet and tear when gluing.

Do not be alarmed if, even after careful leveling, unevenness appears on the surface after a few minutes - after drying, the canvas will “tighten up” and will be smooth again.

How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper

For vinyl wallpaper, you definitely need to purchase a special glue. This material is thick and should only be placed end-to-end. On the packaging of vinyl wallpaper it is usually written where the glue should be applied: on the panel or on the wall. Unlike paper strips, vinyl strips must be saturated with glue within 10-15 minutes. The video below gives recommendations on how to glue vinyl wallpaper with your own hands:

Article

Preparing the walls.
From this article you will learn how to properly glue wallpaper on walls. First, you need to prepare the walls. Remove all electrical fittings. Hammer in protruding dowels and plugs, otherwise they will be visible under the wallpaper. Mark the locations for the screws so that you can screw them back into place later.

Remove old wallpaper, renew or restore plaster, fill cracks with putty. Sand these areas.

Gluing walls
Apply a layer of wallpaper paste diluted with water to the plastered surface to level the walls. The resulting film when gluing will make it easier for the wallpaper to slide along the walls.
Let the glue dry for about an hour.

Correctly gluing wallpaper on a wall starts from the window, so the edges will be almost invisible. If there is a fireplace, place the whole panel exactly in the center of the mantelpiece, and stick the next panels on both sides.

Materials

  • Wallpaper
  • Plumb
  • Pencil, metal
  • ruler, tape measure
  • Table for applying glue to wallpaper
  • Scissors
  • Wallpaper glue
  • Glue brush
  • Ladder
  • Brush or sponge for leveling wallpaper
  • Roller for pressing seams Cloth for wiping off glue

1 Marking a vertical line.
To glue wallpaper evenly on the wall, use a plumb line to mark a vertical line along which the first piece of wallpaper will be glued.

how to glue wallpaper correctly


2.Cutting wallpaper. Place the wallpaper face down on the table, measure the length of the wall, taking into account an allowance of 15 cm. Make sure that the most noticeable fragments of the pattern are intact at the top, as this is where it immediately catches the eye. Draw a straight line and cut the panel with long-bladed scissors.
3.Pattern combination.
Measure out a new piece of wallpaper, exactly matching the pattern on it with the pattern on the already cut piece. Mark the cut line with a pencil and cut the panel. Mark the top of each panel with a pencil so as not to glue wallpaper with a pattern in different directions.
4.Applying glue. Check the instructions for the time of soaking the wallpaper with glue. Place the banner face down, aligning its edge with the edge of the table. From the center to the edge, quickly and evenly spread the wallpaper with glue up to half its length.
5. Folding panels. Fold the glued part in half. Turn it over so it hangs off the table. Now apply glue to the second part. Fold in half, leaving a small gap in the middle. While carrying the wallpaper to the wall, hang it on your hand.

6. How to glue wallpaper on a wall?

On a folding ladder, unfold the top half of the wallpaper, leaving the bottom half folded. Place the top edge of the wallpaper against the wall with an allowance of approximately 8 cm. Using the allowance, adjust the pattern on the wallpaper so that the most noticeable elements of the pattern do not have to be cut. Align the canvas along a vertical line.


7 Smoothing wallpaper.
Using a wallpaper brush or sponge, press the wallpaper against the wall, working down the center and out to the edges. If wrinkles or bubbles appear, carefully peel off the wallpaper, then reapply and smooth it out. Small bubbles usually disappear as the wallpaper dries. Unfold the bottom of the wallpaper and glue it down.


8.Cutting off edges. Using the blunt side of the scissors blade, run along the wallpaper along the line where the wall and ceiling meet. Peel off the wallpaper, cut off the excess along the fold, pressing with a brush, and glue the wallpaper in place. Cut off the bottom edge in the same way. Use a damp cloth or sponge to wipe off the glue from the floor and table.



9 Pattern combination. Apply glue and glue the next piece of wallpaper, precisely matching the pattern, pressing the wallpaper with your palms against the wall and moving it slightly. Then smooth out the wallpaper and cut off the edges. After 20 minutes, lightly roll the roller along the joint. Do not roll embossed wallpaper with a roller, but press it sharply with a brush at the joint.

Pasting corners

In the corner you need to glue two panels of wallpaper. Measure the distance from the last pasted panels to the corner, add 1.5 cm for the inner corner and 3.5 cm for the outer. Cut a piece of wallpaper of this width and glue it, pressing the cut edge to the corner. Measure the width of the remainder and mark it on the wall, starting from the corner. Applying a plumb line to this point, draw a vertical line. Along this line, glue the remaining part of the panel with the cut edge to the corner, slightly overlapping the wallpaper glued to the corner.

Taping walls around doors and windows


Glue the panel as usual, leaving some of it hanging over closed door. Make a diagonal cut in the corner. Trim the wallpaper to the shape of the door with an allowance of approximately 2.5 cm. Smooth the wallpaper with a brush along the line connecting the wall and the door trim. Use the blunt side of the scissors blade to follow this line along the wallpaper. Trim off excess wallpaper.
Using glued paper.
If paper wallpaper is intended to be painted, stick it vertically, just like regular wallpaper. If glued paper is used, it is better to paste the bottom layer in a horizontal direction so that the edges of the top and bottom wallpaper do not coincidentally coincide. Start gluing from the top, butting the edges together. After a day, lightly smooth the joints with a roller.

Wallpapering around switches and sockets


Cover the walls, over the socket or switch. Using a knife, make diagonal cuts or cuts from the center of the round electrical installation devices. Bend the paper back and cut it.

Wallpapering around radiators

For the wallpaper hanging in front of the radiator, cut a vertical strip from the bottom so that the panel can fit on one side of the radiator bracket. Tuck the wallpaper behind the radiator, smooth and trim if possible. If necessary, glue wallpaper under the radiator.

Pasting a window niche



First, cover the inside of the niche so that the wallpaper overlaps the wall surrounding the window by 5 cm. Then cover the wall around the window, cutting the wallpaper to fit the shape of the niche. Apply glue to both layers of wallpaper.

It is very common to see two people wasting precious time wallpapering the same room. One of them, as a rule, coats the strip with glue and hands it to his partner, who stands idle on the scaffold all this time. Then they change places. While the second one adjusts the strip in place, the first one observes the process and gives “valuable” advice. Then they argue and the pasting is postponed to another day.

However, all wallpaper work can be done by one person, without a partner. Moreover, labor productivity increases significantly. You just need to master a few techniques and abandon cliches, many of which date back hundreds of years.

List of required tools

To work productively with wallpaper, you need to replenish your arsenal of tools. Here full list what is needed for this:

  1. Light stepladder.
  2. Clean plastic bucket for glue.
  3. Ditch for glue.
  4. Paint roller with an average fur density of 250 mm wide.
  5. A flat brush with a width of at least 50 mm.
  6. Wallpaper line.
  7. Wallpaper knife and a set of spare blades for it at the rate of 1 package per room.
  8. Scissors.
  9. Tape measure and pencil.
  10. Water or laser two-plane self-aligning level.
  11. Wallpaper brush (if the selected wallpaper requires careful handling when smoothing).
  12. Rubber wallpaper roller (wide, for smoothing panels).
  13. Rubber roller for joints (suitable for most types of wallpaper).
  14. Plastic cone-shaped ribbed roller for joints (suitable for heavy wallpaper that has special instructions from the manufacturer).
  15. Plastic wallpaper spatula (for smooth wallpaper it can be used instead of a rubber roller, and when working with other wallpaper it is convenient to press the wallpaper in the corners).
  16. Cardboard or thick construction film wider than the width of the wallpaper.
  17. A sponge and a piece of gauze to remove excess glue.
  18. Pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

A few words about surface preparation

Not so long ago, the attitude towards wallpaper could be characterized by the phrase: “Seal it up so that it is clean and the scary walls are not visible!” In the modern understanding, the place of wallpaper in the interior is much wider. Therefore, there must be a reliable, smooth and clean surface under the wallpaper. Satisfies these requirements high quality plaster, putty in several layers with intermediate sanding and priming of each layer. Such a surface does not require large-scale repair work in the future and can withstand repeated wallpapering during subsequent cosmetic repairs.

There are wallpapers that can be removed without leaving any residue. These, for example, include all types of non-woven wallpaper. All types of vinyl wallpaper (this is the most common class of decorative wall coverings on the market) have a detachable backing that remains on the wall and is a ready-made base for gluing other wallpaper. Therefore, the requirement for high strength of plaster and putty layers is relevant. The base should not fall off along with the wallpaper when it is subsequently removed.

You can check the quality of the surface by scratching the wall crosswise in an inconspicuous place with a hard, sharp object. If no chips form in the crosshairs, then the surface is durable.

Pattern matching, marking and storage of strips

The bulk of wallpaper is produced with a pattern. The larger it is, the greater its step (rapport), the more waste there will be during operation. First technological operation when working with wallpaper - matching the pattern, marking and storing strips.

Two rolls are rolled out on a clean floor. The one in the photo on the left has already been cut in length according to the desired height with a margin of at least 10 cm from this size. The second roll is combined with the design on the first page and pencil marks are placed along its edges. You can cut these places with scissors.

In order not to bother with a square and a ruler, it is enough to align the strip of wallpaper along the edges in the place where the cut was made, and press down the bend with your hands.

Then you need to cut off the rest of the wallpaper roll from the canvas with scissors. There is no need to worry about the uneven edge. After all, the reserve in length is intended for this purpose, so that after gluing the strip to the wall, you can cut off the excess in place with high precision to fit the ruler.

In the meantime, the previous marking strip will no longer be needed. on her back side You need to mark with an arrow the direction where the top will be, number it and roll the base outward. The roll must be placed vertically against the wall on which it will be glued in the future.

The next canvas is marked and stored in the order indicated above. With this method of preparing and storing cuts ready for gluing, you can straighten the wallpaper without taking up space in the room.

Typically, the cut strips are laid face down on top of each other, and glue is applied to top page in a stack. In this case, the edges of the lower cuts are damaged, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

Marking. Let's say plumb - no

The next stage of work is marking the walls in accordance with the plan. Almost all wallpapering guides advise using a plumb line for this. Stone Age! There is not a single professional who would use this device. For marking vertical and horizontal lines Either a water level or a laser level is used. Mark the position of the first stripes from the corners (vertical lines), the position of the border on the wall or the place of transition from one wallpaper to another (horizontal level).

When drawing a line with a pencil, you do not need to draw it with force. It is enough just to outline it with a dotted line. If the line is left solid, then under transparent non-woven wallpaper it will be visible even through two layers of paint, and other wallpaper can be stained with graphite dust. It is important to make a slight tolerance on the width. Let's say the width of the wallpaper is 53 cm. Then the vertical line needs to be drawn back at least 54 cm from the corner, placing the edge parallel to the marking line, there is less chance of deviating from it than running the wallpaper straight along it.

Applying glue, impregnation and gluing the strip

After everything preparatory stages will be completed, you can begin to directly wallpaper the room. By then all the stripes will be straightened. The glue must be diluted before starting work, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Here we can note one rule common to all: the water must be clean and cold, and the glue must be poured into the water in a thin stream with continuous stirring. You cannot dilute two packs of glue at once. It thickens quickly and lumps will begin to form. The type of glue must match the type of wallpaper.

The strip needs to be rolled out on cardboard or film. Pour some of the glue into a ditch, dip a roller in it and apply to the wallpaper. It is important to coat the edges well. Glue with an indicator is ideal for this. Nothing bad will happen if the roller goes beyond the edge of the canvas. Fresh glue can be easily removed with a damp sponge or gauze. The layer of glue applied should be uniform, but not thick.

Immediately after applying the glue, the wallpaper should be folded as shown in the photo and left to soak for three to five minutes. If the next strip of wallpaper after this runs along a flat wall without obstacles, then you can coat the next section and also fold it. But you should not leave more than three strips for impregnation - they will begin to stick together.

The glue-soaked strip needs to be unrolled by climbing onto the ladder. Find the top using the mark and attach it to the wall, making an overlap on the ceiling (the amount of overlap should be greater than the total slope of the floors, which in some houses can reach 10 cm).

First, the upper half of the panel is glued and adjusted to the pattern. Then you need to go down the stairs and unfold the second half of the wallpaper, fit it end to end and begin to smooth it with a wide rubber roller (a wallpaper spatula or a wallpaper brush, depending on the type of wallpaper), starting from the middle and top, ending with the edges and bottom, squeezing all the air out.

Immediately after this, roll the joint with a narrow rubber roller. The seams should not be pressed too hard or rubbed with a rag. Excess glue should be blotted with a sponge, which should be washed immediately in running water.

The less attention is paid to the seams, the less they will stand out after drying.

Sockets and switches - to remove or not to remove

The answer is clear - shoot! There are several reasons. First, electrical fixtures are sometimes replaced, and a different model of outlet or switch may have different dimensions. It’s good if they’re big, but what if they’re not? Secondly, a rosette installed on top of the wallpaper looks much better than one cut along the contour.

Many manuals advise cutting the wallpaper crosswise at the location where the box is installed, and bending the resulting sectors inward and gluing them. Not the best option in terms of fire safety. It is better to immediately cut out the middle of the box.

This must be done while the wallpaper is damp, since they tend to stretch as they dry and then it is difficult to find the place where mounting box. Naturally, when dismantling electrical fittings, you need to de-energize the room, and insulate the exposed wires and put them inside the box.

How to properly trim excess

One of the main tools in wallpaper making is a flexible ruler. It is designed simply: a strip of flexible material is sealed in a plastic case 60 cm long. of stainless steel. The ruler can be pressed tightly even against uneven surfaces, accurately repeating all their curves. The photo shows how it should be used.

It is important to remember that after each cut you need to break off the tip of the blade of the wallpaper knife so that it is always sharp. The savings here are completely unjustified. After the excess has been removed, you need to wipe the surface with a damp sponge.

Despite the fact that the wallpaper is damp, the cut remains clean, without burrs or lint. It is impossible to do this kind of work accurately without a wallpaper ruler.

Heating radiators - ways to get around the sore spot

Any master, regardless of qualifications, really dislikes heating radiators. In terms of complexity and painstakingness, this warm place in the apartment presents the greatest difficulty when wallpapering. New buildings have batteries that can be easily removed and installed back. When dismantling the radiator, only wall mounts and outlets from the floor, to which it is connected via quick-release connections (the so-called American ones).

With this method of pasting the surface behind the radiator, little time and nerves are spent. Much more will be required to first remove and then replace the battery. Before unscrewing the “American” nuts, you need to turn off the valves on the radiator supply and return and drain the water, having first reduced the pressure by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.

If it is not possible to remove the radiator, then it is enough to place strips of wallpaper around its perimeter to a depth of about 15 cm on each side. It is recommended to additionally coat the surface of the wall behind the battery with glue, especially if it is working.

To quickly and accurately complete wallpaper work without an assistant, you should use a few useful tips:

  1. Use only a stepladder. “Goats” and scaffolding are bulky and can easily damage walls.
  2. When working with non-woven wallpaper or fiberglass, there is no need to pre-cut and adjust the stripes according to the pattern. You can paste from a roll, since the glue for these types of wallpaper is applied to the wall.
  3. To make the edge of the wallpaper running along the slopes neat, you need to make a small overlap (1-2 cm), wait until the wallpaper dries, and then trim off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife.
  4. You should not join the wallpaper strictly in the corners. It is better to make a transition from one plane to another by an amount greater than the deviation of the wall from the vertical, and paste the next sheet of wallpaper level, overlapping the previous strip, cut both sheets under the ruler, and remove the excess.
  5. All types flooring, except for parquet and tiles, are laid after wallpapering.
  6. If parquet is laid on the floor, then before wallpapering it needs to be covered with two or three layers of thick cardboard. Parquet floors cannot be covered with film!
  7. Hands must be clean. After each pasted panel, wipe them with damp gauze, which you rinse periodically.