Mixing taps are made up of many elements, each of which performs specific functions. It is precisely on this basis that there cannot be small things in the system, and a unit such as a nut is very important for ensuring the functionality of the entire structure as a whole.

In fact, in any modification of the faucet there is a pair of nuts; we will look at what exactly they are and what functions they are intended for, since usually during repairs troubles arise with the fixing elements.

If you need to find a nut separately due to loss or damage to the complete one, then you should not forget a couple of simple rules:

The best selection option is by example	It goes without saying that if you have an old element, then buying a new one instead is much easier. It is enough to compare two products and make sure that they have similar parameters and are interchangeable. But not always an example is at hand, so it is possible to take with you a faucet part that requires a fastening element
Study the quality level	If there is no example, then you need to take measurements very carefully and meticulously, and when choosing, select the option that is made better: there are no burrs on the thread, it is rolled evenly and carefully, there are no stains or cavities on the surface. Every little thing matters, because it is possible to draw conclusions from it about how well the element is made
Consider the type of tap cover	Putting a copper nut on a chrome-plated structure, as well as on the contrary, is not best solution, because it doesn’t look very attractive. It goes without saying this item does not apply to cases where the fastening is hidden and simply will not be visible, in such a situation any color will do

Advice! Another reason that speaks about the quality of the product is its mass. High-quality options weigh much more than fragile elements made of powder alloys, so it is better to choose those that are heavier.

As noted above, the design may contain different nuts; we will consider the most popular of them, since the number of models is huge and the design may contain atypical elements.

Types of nuts

Much more often during installation and repair work you have to deal with the following components:

• Elements for fastening to the water supply; they are located on the inlet lines and in most cases are visible. Much more often they are rigidly fixed to the structure and replacing them is unrealistic; you need to buy new mixer. Based on this, when working, be careful and do not apply too much force, so as not to break the element; in addition, watch the position of the rubber gasket, it must be level.

• The nut to the faucet body under the spout helps to fix the faucet gooseneck. Its main highlight is that the spout must not only be well fixed, but also move left and right; for this, there must be a plastic expansion washer under the nut. Tips for securing such units are simple: you do not need to apply too much force, but you need to tighten the system carefully so as not to scratch the outer decorative coating.

• A clamping nut is also needed for systems installed on a sink or sink; it is located at the bottom and is not visible from the outside. The price of these elements is low, but it is better to buy a version made of brass or brass, so as not to worry about the unit being damaged by corrosion. It is possible to tighten the system with your own hands, without using a key, since too much force is not needed.

• Another type is nuts that secure the cartridge in lever valves. They are hidden under a decorative ring and can only be reached by removing the handle. The design is enormous in size; in the upper part there are turnkey edges, and in the lower part there are threads of a certain size.

Features of the work

The installation instructions tell you the assembly procedure, but you will need to learn how to disassemble the system yourself.

Let's look at how to change the nut on a faucet if it cannot be unscrewed:

• The first thing to do is to carefully tap the joint with a hammer on all sides; you do not need to apply too much force so as not to damage the edges and the threaded connection.
• Another option is to treat the structure with liquid key; this composition dissolves plaque and makes unscrewing much easier. In very difficult cases, this operation can be repeated 2-3 times.
• How to unscrew a stuck nut on a faucet if the above methods did not have the desired result? You can use a hairdryer and heat the connection; this method also allows you to cope with difficult problems.

Advice! You should unscrew the fasteners carefully, since if the edges are torn off, it will be much more difficult to carry out the work and you will need to make cuts on the structure.

Conclusion

Nuts are not the main element of the system, but their importance in the correct operation of the structure is difficult to overestimate. The video in this article will help you better understand this issue.

The kitchen faucet is used more intensively than other plumbing equipment. Even a high-quality product needs maintenance (replacing cartridges, taps) or becomes unusable over time. Constant contact with water causes erosion of the surface of the faucet body and becomes thinner. protective covering made of chrome, the thread is “eaten up”. In low-quality silumin faucets, the body often cracks and is completely destroyed, and fragments break off.

However, replacing the mixer can also occur for other reasons. For example, the interior of the kitchen has been changed, the installed model is outdated. Not only a plumber can change a kitchen faucet, but also a common person without experience or special knowledge. The process is responsible, but accessible to the average apartment resident.

When is replacement required?

The obvious reasons for replacing the faucet are physical damage: the body has cracks, chips, replacing gaskets does not eliminate the leak. It is unrealistic to restore the tightness and integrity of the case while maintaining aesthetic qualities and reliability. The valve seat or axlebox often wears out due to hot or cold water. Damage can be repaired by grinding with a roller cutter. However, the process is lengthy and the result is not guaranteed. Some defects are accurately determined only after dismantling. The replacement also occurs after renovating the kitchen and changing the interior.

If necessary, you can call a specialist or work with the tools yourself. The process is not difficult if you take your time and do everything carefully.

Faucet selection

Choosing the right mixer is not as easy as many people think. The market offers products from several dozen manufacturers and more than a hundred models. Don't get lost in front of this varied choice. The main thing is to understand the differences between them.

Internal organization

Mixers are divided into several types depending on the internal structure:

• With two-valve system. Classic scheme, familiar to many from childhood: a spout between two axle boxes. The water flow is regulated by valves. Although models of this type do not cost much, their popularity is falling. Internal components, especially gaskets, wear out quickly.
• With single lever system. Many buyers prefer this type of faucets. It allows you to adjust the intensity and temperature of the water with one movement.
• With contactless system. Modern design And convenient design. When you bring your hand to the sensor, water begins to flow. The device significantly increases the cost of the mixer.

Spout

The height of the spout determines the comfort of using the mixer. With a high spout, splashes can scatter to the sides, and with a low spout, it is inconvenient to wash dishes. Preference should be given to the average value.

The spout must match the sink. It is better to choose a ready-made set of faucet and sink from one manufacturer. It will be equipped with additional accessories to solve possible problems.

Modern models may have a pull-out spout. It leaves the nest at 0.6-1.2 m. High quality materials will ensure durability and hygiene.

Nozzle design

There are two types of nozzle:

• aerator;
• shower head

The “shower” mode is convenient for washing greens and berries without damaging their integrity. Caring for the sink is much easier.

Material

The material will determine the duration of the work. Today there are faucets made of metal, plastic and ceramics. Let's take a closer look:

• Metal. The most common is silumin - an alloy of silicon and aluminum. Mixers belong to the budget price category; there is no high aesthetics and durability.

Another material would be bronze and brass. Their reputation is much better: they do not interact with water, are strong, durable. This is the best category of kitchen faucets.

• Plastic. Modern plastic is chemically resistant, durable and lightweight. The cost of a product made from it is low. A significant drawback is low thermal conductivity, which causes strong heating of the parts. Longer service life than metal.
• Fake diamond. The production technology is based on low tide. It has high decorative characteristics.

Necessary equipment and materials

Before replacing the mixer, make sure that all components and tools are available. It will be sad if you have to run around and buy the missing materials, and the household will languish while waiting for the water supply to be restored.

• Mixer. Before installation, check the flexibility of the hoses and their length. As a rule, the product is equipped with 30 cm hoses, which are not always enough. In “market” faucets, the quality of the hoses is very low. It is recommended to replace them immediately.

When purchasing hoses, you should pay attention to the length of the fittings. It is better when it is different, as this will make assembly easier - the hexagons for clamping will not interfere with each other.

Before going to the store to buy a mixer, you need to look at the threaded connection in the water pipe (diameter, male/female). The most common female hoses are ½ inch. However, other options are also possible when there is a “female” ball valve or a manifold comb is present.

The length of the hoses should not be minimal. During switching on/off, a pressure drop occurs, the hoses jerk, and the rubber tube inside quickly wears out.

Corrugated stainless steel hoses have the highest reliability. Their cost is higher, and installation is more difficult, but high rigidity ensures the preservation of the original shape.

Sometimes plumbers use metal-plastic pipes, excluding the use of flexible hoses. Then you will additionally need to buy special fittings. Their installation is the most difficult, but in the future there will be no questions regarding the installation of pipes.

• To work you will need tools:

1. Wrench 10, 22x24. If it is attached to the sink using a large nut, then an adjustable wrench is required. Often studs require an 11mm wrench.
2. Pliers.
3. Screwdriver with different tips.
4. Gas key.
5. An electric drill and a 35 mm hole saw if the installation is on a new sink or countertop.
6. A flashlight for illumination, since under the sink it is quite dark and the joints are difficult to see.

• Materials:

1. Seals for threads. Often it is necessary to install a coupling or adapter on a water pipe.
2. If you intend to dismantle the sink, you will need silicone sealant and a syringe for extrusion.
3. Universal lubricant WD-40 in a spray bottle to dismantle “stuck” threaded connections.

You should not choose fum tape, as there is a low guarantee against leakage. It is better to give preference to a proven sealant - sealing paste and flax tow.

After preparing all the materials, you can begin work on dismantling the old mixer.

Dismantling

Dismantling is carried out in the following order:

• Before starting work, turn off the supply of hot and cold water. As a rule, the valves are located at the entrance to the apartment. Modern ladies have internal wiring, which allows you to turn off the water only in the kitchen, leaving the supply to the bathroom and toilet. Often the taps are installed under the sink; just turn them all the way.

To prevent flooding, it is better to turn off the water to the entire kitchen. The work will be in a tight space, where you can unnoticedly turn on the water supply with your elbow or hand.

• After turning off the water, open the tap on the old mixer. This will help make sure that the water is really turned off, and also normalize the pressure. A container for collecting water (basin, bucket) is placed under the hose connection points. The hoses are unscrewed, draining the remaining water in the system.

• Remove the old mixer. The work is complicated by a number of factors:

1. If the sink is installed in Kitchen Cabinet, you will have to work in cramped conditions while lying on your back.
2. The mixer is located between the bowl and the wall - a narrow niche in which to work wrench problematic.
3. Operation of equipment in conditions high humidity leads to “hardening” and rusting of threaded connections.

Most recommendations for dismantling an old faucet say “use a screwdriver to unscrew the pin and remove the faucet.” An experienced plumber will tell you what the cost of such an approval is. There is a high probability that the pin will not yield to the screwdriver, and the slot will be cut off. Most likely, you will need to use a key, which is quite difficult to work with.

If you can dismantle the sink, then do not neglect it. In this case, removing and then installing the mixer will be much faster, easier and of better quality. You will need to purchase additional sealant, but its cost is low.

• To dismantle the sink, it must be disconnected from the sewer. Can be done in two ways:

1. unscrew the retaining ring on the siphon and remove the “glass” from the pipe;
2. remove the corrugated hose from the pipe.

• Now you can remove the mixer in a convenient position: unscrew it from the locking pin or nut. If disconnecting is problematic, you can use WD-40. A radical solution would be to use a grinder or hacksaw. The main thing during dismantling is to keep the sink intact.

You can’t do without a grinder if you are replacing an old mixer with a rigid liner made of metal pipes. Disassembling connections with obvious signs of corrosion or several layers of paint is very difficult. Sometimes it is more profitable to cut off above the threaded connection, and then act according to the circumstances. If you can free the threaded pipe and its quality is satisfactory, then you can proceed to connecting the flexible hose. If such “happiness” does not happen, then the thread is cut with a tool.

• Visually inspect and evaluate the condition of the water pipes, especially the areas where flexible hoses will be installed. To ensure a tight fit of the gasket to the edge, cylindricity must be maintained. The parts adjacent to each other must be perfectly round to ensure a tight fit. Any irregularities in the form of sharp edges or protrusions will disrupt the seal of the connection. If not correct form, then you can use a thread seal. It guarantees reliability.

A special extension will help to update the thread. For installation, tow is used - a fiber that is used to wrap external thread in a clockwise direction. A sealing paste is applied on top. Using a gas or open-end wrench, tighten the extension until it stops.

• If there is an opportunity and desire, then install shut-off valves that were previously missing. It will be possible in the future to repair the plumbing in the kitchen without turning off the water supply to the entire apartment.
• When using metal-plastic pipes, you can proceed to “packing” the transition fittings onto steel pipes.
• When installing the mixer on old sink, the surface of the hole should be thoroughly cleaned of scale, rust and dirt. Processing is carried out from the bottom and front sides.
• If installation is taking place on a new sink, then it is better to choose models with an existing hole. If there is no hole, you will have to drill it. Diameter cutting tool selected taking into account the mixer: mounting on a stud - 28 and 32 mm; nut mounting - 35 mm. It's not difficult for them to work. First, an 8 mm hole is made to determine the drilling location. The cutting part is lowered down and twisted with a bolt to ensure a tight fit of the edges. They begin to turn the bolt with a wrench, controlling the movement of the knives around the circle.

Difficulties may arise when using a ceramic sink. To process it, a diamond tool is required - a crown. However, this is not enough. Drilling at home without experience in such work can lead to surface damage.

Drilling a hole for a faucet in a sink is best left to professionals. Good salons often offer similar services or can tell you where to go.

If the mixer is installed on a countertop, you will need an electric drill with hole saw with a diameter of 28 or 32 mm. Make holes in wooden surface not difficult.

Mixer installation

There are several options for attaching the faucet to the countertop and sink:

• Fastening with threaded rods. The kit includes a stud, a brass nut, a clamp, and a rubber or polymer gasket.

Mixers with one pin do not have good stability and will rotate around its axis. Plumbers recommend discarding such a product.

This fastening method has high reliability of installation on surfaces whose thickness is 30-35 mm.

• Fastening with nut and thread (M34) to faucets.

• This type of faucet is most often used on metal sinks. It is worth paying attention that the hole does not have complex configuration. For high-quality pressing, a completely flat area is required.

Nut mount

The length of the lower part is not an obstacle to screwing in flexible hoses. Installation begins by fixing the mixer to the sink:

• The kit must contain a rubber O-ring. There should be a special groove for it at the bottom end of the housing. First of all, we place the gasket in the groove.
• The cylindrical part with thread is inserted into the hole made in the sink. Important: the ring must not move from the groove!
• Install the wide rubber gasket included in the kit below.
• Tighten the brass fixing nut. It has a washer-like extension to provide maximum pressure through the rubber gasket.
• Tighten the nut with an adjustable wrench, ensuring that the mixer is completely stationary. The spout must be in the correct position: the left and right sectors of rotation must be the same, and the valves must be level with respect to the sink. For a corner mixer, control the location diagonally. To correct the position, loosen the nut a little, level the mixer, and then fix the position again.
• Install hoses. Start with the one with the shorter fitting. To tighten, use a 10mm wrench. There is no point in using fum tape or tow on the threaded part, since the fitting already has a pair of o-rings that will ensure a good seal. The fitting is screwed in without much effort. If you overtighten, the rubber ring in the connecting part will be damaged. As a rule, they begin to twist it with their hands, and then turn it with a key.

• Installation of the second fitting. Consolidation occurs in a similar way.
• If metal-plastic pipes are used for liner, then screwing occurs in the following sequence: start with a bend, and then move on to a straight one.
• After installing the fittings, the sink can be returned to its place.

Stud mount

A distinctive feature of this type of installation: the hoses must be screwed in before installing the mixer on the sink or countertop. Failure to follow the sequence leads to poor tightening.

Operating procedure:

• Remove the brass nuts from the studs and screw them into the holes at the end of the faucet. As a rule, the studs should have slots for a screwdriver. They are easy to tighten without using special effort. There is no need to tighten too much: the thrust depth is 8-10 mm. They must be stable, without play.

You can try on a shaped gasket and a pressure plate on the stud, but then remove them, since installation will take place later.

• Pass the hoses through the holes in the sink with the fittings facing up.
• The installation of the O-ring should be monitored as described above.
• Screw in the flexible hose fittings. The sequence is maintained: first short, and then extended.
• Insert the faucet with fittings into the hole in the countertop or sink.
• Place a shaped gasket on the studs, and then a pressure plate. Tighten by hand without using special tools.
• After checking the location of the O-ring, as well as the direction of the spout, tighten the nut with a 10 or 11 wrench, securely fixing the mixer to the surface; there should be no play.

Incorrect positioning of the faucet, misalignment or a large hole in the sink will lead to the formation of a hole near the body. You should check that there is no gap.

• Place the sink on the countertop.

The listed operations can be performed without dismantling, but this requires certain conditions and dexterity, and will also create unnecessary difficulties.

Sink installation

The sink with mixer is installed in a pre-prepared place. First, silicone is applied to the back side along the entire perimeter. Should not be used acrylic sealant, as it begins to quickly turn yellow. The sink is put in place and the fasteners are tightened.

The tightening bolts have a petal shape, which allows you to tighten the sink while tightening. It should stand firmly in place without moving to the side.

Connection to water supply

All that remains is to connect the hoses to the water supply. The nuts should have rubber gaskets, which eliminates the use of winding and the application of great force. Tightening too tightly will cause a leak. Tighten it by hand until it stops, then tighten it half a turn with wrench 22 (24).

Metal-plastic eyeliner requires more work. It is necessary to measure the segment, give the correct bend, and tighten the compression fittings.

When connecting supply pipes and hoses, follow the diagram: on the right - cold, on the left - hot.

If the sink has been dismantled, then before turning on the water you should make sure that it is connected to the sewerage system: a siphon is inserted and a corrugated hose is inserted into the outlet sewer pipe.

After all the checks, you can turn on the water supply and test the mixer in practice.

When you turn it on for the first time, it is better to remove the aerator (tip) and let some water through without it. Small contaminants sometimes accumulate in faucets or pipes, which quickly clog the nozzle holes. After a couple of liters, you can safely install the aerator back.

After start-up, it is worth checking the connections for leaks. If it is detected, the water is turned off and the leakage is eliminated using a tightener.

The installation methods listed are the most common, but there are more complex designs siphons:

• Shower head with flexible hose. Additional communication and adjustment required. At the bottom there will be a 1.5 m hose with or without corrugation, but with a fitting. It is installed on regular place in the mixer, screwing it into the socket in the housing. The hose must have a sinker that limits the length of pull and returns it to its original position. Using a locking screw, the position of the sinker can be easily changed.
• The mixer has a channel for drinking water. The kit should include an additional fitting for a hose going to the water treatment system. The mixer is turned on using a separate lever or tap.
• With remote autonomous boiler, thermostats, units electronic control etc. Installation must be described in detail in the equipment instructions. If difficulties arise, it is better to resort to the services of a plumber.

Replacing the faucet yourself is not that difficult. The main thing is to choose the right mixer, carry out the work carefully and follow the installation sequence.

In any apartment a situation arises when it is necessary to replace the old faucet. Calling a specialist costs money. And you can do this simple job yourself. Connection options are studied in advance before the faucet is installed on the sink. Choose between rigid wiring or flexible wiring. the sink in one way or another depends on the model of the water distribution mechanism.

For example, it is recommended to choose a single-lever kitchen faucet with a high spout. We must not forget about the size of the washbasin. If the washbasin does not match, drops of water will scatter into different sides. The small size of the spout reduces the power of water pressure. For exclusive models, the installation method may differ from standard ones. Each device is supplied with instructions from the manufacturer for its installation.

Not all faucet breakdowns require its replacement. new model. Sometimes it is possible and the device functions well. But there are breakdowns that cannot be repaired.

• A broken faucet does not stop the flow of water. The water in the tap does not shut off in the “closed” position.
• A clogged faucet aerator significantly reduces the water pressure when supplied.
• The service life of a water hose is from 3 to 7 years. It is called an unreliable place, and it breaks and leaks.

• The faucet's attachment to the sink has broken and it's wobbling.

The listed breakdowns can be repaired, but it will be so problematic that it is better to install a new device.

• The housing of the device burst.
• The model simply fell out of favor and seems outdated to the owners.

In this case, repairs will not help at all. A new mechanism is being installed.

Required tools for installation

Prepare the tools for the sink in the bathroom or kitchen:

• Screwdriver Set;
• adjustable wrench (large and small);
• FUM tape;
• set of tubular socket wrenches;
• passages.

Different faucet models are screwed to the sink with different nuts. Therefore, you will need a set of tubular wrenches and adjustable wrenches. This will make it easier to select a tool for the nut of your model. There is no standard for manufacturers regarding the size of nuts. If there is no suitable tubular wrench, you can replace it with an open-end wrench. But then the shell is removed.

• The water distribution mechanism is easier to install and replace later without removing the sink if it is selected with two pins instead of one large nut. Models whose price is average and above average are usually attached with pins. They can be installed and dismantled without disturbing the position of the washbasin.
• A cheap faucet comes with unreliable hoses. It is recommended that you purchase new hoses before installing the faucet on the sink. This will help avoid having to replace them quickly.
• An easy way to choose a reliable faucet is to choose by weight. Several models are selected and their weights are compared. The heaviest mixer will be made of brass. The rest are made of aluminum and its alloys.
• Non-standard models are more difficult to repair, as there may be problems with spare parts. Then only installing a new mechanism will help correct the situation.

Selection of eyeliners

The tap is connected to the water supply system using flexible and rigid connections. They are rigid and easy to install.

The standard length is 86 cm. This is enough so that the hoses do not break. They are laid in a semicircle.

If the kit comes with short eyeliners, 30 cm long, then they will have to be sharpened. Extra connections appear and problem areas for a leak. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately purchase hoses of the required length. The eyeliner should not be stretched.

The compatibility of the mixer materials and connecting hoses is taken into account to prevent corrosion on the elements.

Algorithm for removing an old crane model

• Installing a faucet on a sink begins with shutting off the water supply in the riser. To make sure that it is absent, just open the tap.
• The old device is unscrewed from the pipes with hot and cold water. After this, the threaded connection on the pipes is cleaned. If the threaded connections are stuck and they are difficult to unscrew, then the places are pre-treated with kerosene. After 20 minutes the thread unwinds.
• It is recommended to mark the location of the cold and hot flow pipes. Only after this is the eyeliner disconnected.
• The device is secured in place with a nut. It is unscrewed with a small adjustable wrench. Sometimes the mixer is secured with a pin or a pair of pins, onto which nuts are screwed for fixation.

• When the locking nut is unscrewed, the half-washer is removed. The old device is removed through the hole in the sink upwards. The hot and cold water supply hoses are also pulled out alternately.

Installation of a new model

• Before installing the mixer in, the device is assembled. On initial stage a flexible hose is screwed into the mixer. Particular care is taken when working with rubber cuffs. They are located on the eyeliner fittings.
• Before screwing them in, it is recommended to immerse them in water. The mixer is secured at the bottom with stud fasteners. A ring-shaped rubber seal is installed.

• In the sink, hoses with hot and cold water supply are threaded into the hole. After this, the crane is installed in its place.
• A clamping nut under the sink or under the washbasin secures the position of the tap. A rubber gasket is placed between the washer and the sink to prevent leakage. After this, the clamping nut is screwed onto the stud. The mixer takes a more stable position.
• The tap nuts are tightened carefully. After they are fully tightened, the faucet is fixed to the sink.

1 – fastening pin; 2 – hot water supply hose with red streak; 3 – cold water supply hose with blue streaks.

Installation of the new device ends with connecting flexible hoses to the cold and hot water supply pipes. The nuts for supplying the hose are screwed onto the threaded pipe connection plumbing system. The nuts have rubber seals. Therefore, they are twisted without using force so that they are not damaged.

The threaded connection is covered with FUM tape. This seals all connections. After connecting the flexible line, a check is carried out to ensure that the work was done correctly and that there are no leaks in all places where the connection was made. The water supply in the riser opens and the mixer lever is moved to the “open” position. The absence of leakage confirms the correctness of the sink.

The kitchen faucet is one of the most intensively used plumbing equipment. Any, even the highest quality, device of this kind requires some maintenance over time - replacing a leaking cartridge or loose valve axle boxes. However, it also happens that the body itself becomes unusable from the kneader - from constant exposure to water, irreversible processes of surface erosion begin, the threads in the sockets for valves or cartridges are “eaten”, and the chrome coating is erased. And if the product is made of low-quality silumin, then it is quite possible complete destruction housing with cracks and fragments breaking off.

It may not be such a fatal situation - the owners simply decided to update the interior of the kitchen, and this issue cannot be solved without installing new modern plumbing fixtures. was described in a special article on our portal. Now we will talk about how to change the faucet in the kitchen yourself, without calling a specialist.

This process , Although and very responsible, but still quite accessible to the average apartment owner.

What you need for work

To carry out work on replacing the mixer, you must immediately prepare the necessary components, accessories, tools, and consumables.

• We assume that the mixer has already been purchased. However, you definitely need to check whether the flexible hoses included in the kit are long enough. As a rule, those that come in the kit have only 300 mm, which may clearly not be enough. In addition, if the faucet is not “branded”, then the quality of these metal braided hoses usually leaves much to be desired, and they should be replaced immediately.

When choosing and purchasing such hoses, be sure to pay attention to the fact that the length of their fitting (otherwise it is often called a needle) should be different - this will make assembly easier, since the hexagons will not interfere with each other.

In addition, you need to choose the right type of threaded connection to the water pipe. This applies to both the diameter and the type of threaded part (“male” or “female”). Most often, of course, “female” hoses with a ½-inch nut are used - for direct connection in the corresponding pipe. Nevertheless, options are possible, for example, if a manifold comb or a ball valve with a “female” outlet is installed.

The hoses should not be placed under tension or tightness, but they should not be purchased with a very large margin of length. When pressure changes (opening and closing the tap), they will twitch and vibrate, and this causes rapid wear of the rubber tube located under the steel braid. It begins to wear out and may leak in the near future.

Schematic diagram of a flexible braided hose

Corrugated stainless hoses are more durable and reliable in this regard.

They are, of course, more expensive, and they are somewhat more difficult to install. But such hoses have excellent rigidity - they will retain the bend given to them during installation.

Some craftsmen prefer to make do with flexible hoses, making the water supply to the mixer from a metal-plastic pipe. To do this, you need to purchase a set of fittings with fittings for metal plastic.

Such a line, of course, is also more difficult to implement than with flexible hoses, but once you have installed such pipes, you won’t have to worry about this section in the future.

Video: how to choose really high-quality hoses

• Tools for work you will need:

- Spanners. It is guaranteed that you will need a 10 and 22 × 24 wrench. Very often, fastening nuts on studs require an 11 wrench. If the mixer is attached to the sink with a nut large diameter, then it’s better to prepare an adjustable wrench.

— Screwdrivers with straight and figured tips.

- Pliers.

— In some cases, you cannot do without a gas key.

— If installation will be carried out on a new sink, which does not yet have a hole, or on a countertop, you will need an electric drill with appropriate bits (usually with a diameter of 35 mm).

— To work in low-light conditions, under the sink, you will most likely need a backlight - a flashlight.

• Materials you may need:

— Seals for threaded connections. They will be needed when there is a need to install a coupling, adapter on a water pipe, pack a fitting under metal plastic, etc. You should not trust fum tape - it is better to use ordinary flax tow and sealing paste (such as Unipak) - such a connection will be guaranteed against leakage.

— If the installation of the mixer will be carried out with temporary dismantling of the sink, then it is necessary to prepare silicone sealant and, of course, a syringe for ease of application.

— situations are possible when old “stuck” threaded connections cannot be disassembled. Can help in this case atomizing cylinder of universal lubricant “WD-40”.

Once everything is prepared, you can proceed to further actions.

Prices for popular faucet models

Faucets

Dismantling the old mixer and preparatory work

• Before starting work directly under the kitchen sink, it is necessary to: Firstly, turn off the supply of both cold and hot water. To do this, the valves at the entrance to the apartment are closed, or, if this is provided by the system internal wiring– blocking the water supply from the collector to the kitchen. Sometimes taps are installed directly under the sink. Of course, theoretically it is possible to block only them. However, practice shows that when carrying out work in tight spaces, the possibility of accidental discovery ball valve awkward movement of the hand or elbow. To prevent such a misunderstanding, it is better to completely shut off the water supply to the kitchen.
• After the valves are closed, you should open the tap on the mixer - this normalizes the pressure in the pipe. It is necessary to place a basin or other container of suitable dimensions under the area where the old hoses are connected. The hoses are twisted, allowing the remaining water in the pipes to escape.
• Now you need to remove the old one. This matter is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

— Firstly, working in an awkward position, in a very cramped space, lying on your back is very difficult, especially if the sink is embedded in a kitchen cabinet.

— Secondly, the “classic” location of the mixer is between the wall and the sink bowl. In such a narrow niche it is very difficult to use a wrench - there is simply no room for it to be placed and turned.

- Thirdly, almost certainly all the connections have rusted due to time and dampness, become “stuck” and will not easily give in.

In numerous Internet articles on replacing the faucet, this stage is sometimes described in passing, like “unscrew the pin with a screwdriver and pull out the faucet.” Experienced craftsmen they know the value of such statements - with a very high degree of probability, these same studs will not yield to a screwdriver; rather, the rusted slot will be cut off. This means you will need a key, and the “convenience” of working with it in these conditions has already been discussed.

Which exit? If it is possible to remove the sink (and this is possible in the vast majority of cases), then there is no need to hesitate - both the dismantling and subsequent installation of the mixer will be completed faster and with much better quality. It is better to spend a very small amount on purchasing sealant and carry out fairly simple steps to remove the sink and then install it in place - in the end you will still win.

• To dismantle the sink, of course, you will need to disconnect it from the sewer. You can remove the flexible corrugated hose from the sewer pipe, or, which is probably more convenient for further work, simply unscrew the retaining ring on the siphon and remove this “glass” from the drain pipe of the sink.
• Now, having sat comfortably, it will not be difficult to remove the used yours mixer. Depending on its design, either a large lock nut or studs are unscrewed. You may need to spray these assemblies with WD-40 to get them to yield. There are situations when this does not help - then you will have to take radical measures - cut them off with a hacksaw or a grinder. The main thing is not to damage the sink.

Sometimes you have to resort to cutting with a grinder when replacing an old type mixer installed on a rigid liner made of steel pipes.

It is extremely difficult to disassemble rusted or covered with several layers of paint. Therefore, it may be more profitable to simply cut off the higher threaded part. Next - by circumstances. If you manage to free a high-quality threaded pipe for further connection of a flexible hose, then the issue becomes simpler. If not, then, apparently, you will also have to cut the thread with a tool.

• In order not to delay until later, it is necessary to immediately inspect the condition of the water pipes suitable for washing, in particular, those threaded sections on which flexible hoses are planned to be screwed. In order for the hose gasket to fit tightly to the pipe cut, it must be smooth around the entire circumference, not have sharp or protruding edges, or geometry violations due to corrosive effects. If in doubt, it is better to “pack” a factory-made threaded extension in this place - this will guarantee a reliable connection to the hose.

It is advisable to “update” the threads on pipes by installing similar extensions

Installation is carried out on tow, the fibers of which are wound clockwise along the threads on the pipe, and then coated with sealing paste. The extension cord is twisted with a carob or gas wrench all the way.

• If you wish and have the funds, you can immediately install shut-off valves if they were not installed previously. This will allow you to subsequently carry out any renovation work in the kitchen, for example, in the event of an emergency, without turning off the general home water supply network.
• If you plan to supply water with metal-plastic pipes, it makes sense to immediately “pack” transition fittings onto the steel pipes.
• If you intend to install a new faucet on an old sink, then you must thoroughly clean the area around the mounting hole from scale build-up, accumulated dirt, traces of rust, etc. This cleaning is carried out on both the front and bottom sides.
• If you plan to install a new sink, you must, of course, immediately try to purchase one that already has an installation hole. However, some models are not equipped with it, and appropriate measures will have to be taken.

If the sink is made of stainless steel, then a special tool is used for this, which cuts perfectly even holes in the metal up to 1 mm thick.

The diameter is selected based on the mixer model. So, if it is mounted on studs, then 28 or 32 mm will be enough. When attaching to a nut, the hole must have a diameter of 35 mm.

The process of cutting a hole is simple

It is easy to use - just drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the intended location. The device is inserted with the cutting part from below, twisted with a bolt so that cutting edges fit tightly to the metal. Then, turning the bolt with a wrench, ensure the rotation of the knives in a circle.

The situation is more complicated if the sink is ceramic. To cut the hole in this case, you will need a diamond crown. But even its presence in the home arsenal does not guarantee success - such a sink can easily be damaged if there is no experience in such work.

Advice - in both cases, it is better to turn to professionals. Usually, good plumbing salons will definitely tell you where and how this can be done, and in some cases such a service can even be provided on the spot.

If the mixer is installed on a countertop, then a hole is drilled in it. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a hole saw Ø 28 or 32 mm. Making the required hole with such a tool in a wood composite panel will not be difficult.

Installation of a new mixer

As has already been mentioned several times in the article, faucet models may differ in the way they are attached to the surface of the sink or countertop.

• The diagram shows a mixer that is mounted on threaded rods. The kit of such a product includes the studs themselves with brass nuts, a crescent-shaped clamp with holes for the studs and a rubber or polymer gasket of the same configuration.

There are models of mixers that use only one pin, but such a design will not be particularly stable (rotation around the axis is not excluded), and it is better to purchase one with two.

This design ensures reliable installation on surfaces up to 30 ÷ 35 mm thick, which is especially important when installing the mixer on a countertop.

• Another option is that the mixer has a cylindrical threaded part and a nut at the bottom, usually M 34.

Such models are more suitable for installation on a metal sink. It is important that there is no complex relief configuration at the bottom in the hole area - an absolutely flat area is necessary, otherwise a tight fit and reliable fixation will not be achieved.

Installation different types mixers has its own characteristics.

A. Installation of a mixer with mounting on nut

The elongated lower cylindrical part will not interfere with the screwing of flexible hoses, so installation begins, in fact, with attaching the mixer itself to the sink.

• The faucet kit always includes a rubber sealing ring, and there is a special groove for it at the lower end of the body. The first step is to install the gasket into this groove.

• The threaded cylindrical part is inserted into the hole in the sink. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the rubber ring remains in place and does not move.

• Then, a wide rubber gasket is installed below, which should also be included in the delivery set.

The sealing gasket is put in place...

• The brass fixing nut is screwed on. It has a kind of “skirt” - a washer-shaped extension that will provide maximum pressure through the already installed rubber gasket.

...and then the clamping nut...

• The nut is tightened with an adjustable wrench so as to ensure that the mixer does not move on the sink. In this case, it is necessary to check the correct orientation of the spout - it should be positioned so that the sectors of rotation to the left and right from the central position are equal, and the switch lever or valves are positioned exactly relative to the sink. When the mixer is positioned at an angle, the spout position is selected diagonally.

... which is tightened with a key, fixing the position of the mixer on the sink

• Adjusting the position is easy - you can loosen the nut, align the mixer and fix it again.
• Now you can proceed to installing the hoses. To begin, screw in a hose with a short fitting and tighten it with a 10mm wrench.

No winding of the threaded part of the fitting with tow or fum tape, as a rule, not required - it has one or two sealing rings, which should ensure reliable sealing. The fitting is screwed in all the way with medium force - it is dangerous to overtighten, as the rubber ring may be damaged. Usually, hand effort is enough, and only then no more than one turn with the key.

... and then, in the same way - with an extended

• The next step is to install the second hose in the same way - with an extended fitting.
• If you plan to supply water via metal-plastic pipe, then the fittings are screwed in in the following sequence - first the one that has a bend, and then the straight one.
• After the hoses (fittings) are screwed in, the sink can be installed in place.

Find out how to choose the right one from our new article.

B. Installation of a mixer with mounting on hairpins

The peculiarity of the installation in this case is that the hoses are screwed into the hole in the countertop or sink before installing the mixer, otherwise it will not be possible to tighten it properly.

• First, the brass nuts are removed from the studs, and the studs themselves are screwed into the corresponding holes at the bottom end of the mixer. The studs usually have slots for a straight or figured screwdriver, but, as a rule, they are easily tightened by hand, without much effort. A strong tightening is not needed here - it is enough to simply screw them all the way to a depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm so that they stand steadily, without play.

You can immediately try on how the shaped gasket and pressure plate will fit onto the studs, but then these elements should be removed - they will be installed later.

• Both hoses are threaded into the hole in the sink (countertop) with the fittings facing up.
• Be sure to check the presence and correct installation of the sealing ring on the mixer body - exactly as described above.
• The next step is to screw in the flexible hose fittings. The sequence of work does not change - first short, then extended.
• Mixer with connected hoses and screwed-in pins are inserted into the installation hole of the sink or countertop.

• From below, a shaped gasket is first put on the studs, and then a metal pressure plate. The brass nuts are baited and tightened by hand as far as possible.

• After checking the correct location of the sealing ring on the body and the direction of the spout, the nuts are tightened with a 10 (sometimes 11) wrench until they stop, so that the mixer is securely fixed to the surface, without the slightest play.

Neatly installed faucet - bottom view

• It is important to ensure that there is no gap left near the housing, not covered with gasket- this sometimes happens when too big hole in the sink and incorrect alignment of the mixer in it.

That's it, the mixer is installed, you can install the sink in place.

Let us repeat that all of the above actions, of course, can be carried out under certain conditions and due dexterity without dismantling the sink, but this is unnecessary difficulty.

Find out which one to choose, as well as consider the nuances, from our new article.

Video - Installing a faucet in the kitchen

Prices for components for mixers

Accessories for faucets

Connecting the mixer to the water supply

Installation of a sink is a separate topic that requires detailed consideration in a dedicated article. We can only note that if it is mortise and mounted in the old place, then a strip of sealant must be applied to the cleaned surface of the countertop around the perimeter of the installation. After pressing, it should reliably close the gap to prevent water from penetrating through it.

If the sink is overhead and adjacent to the wall, then after installing it, the gap between them is also sealed with sealant.

Now all that remains is to connect the hoses to water pipes. The hose nuts are usually already supplied rubber gaskets, and to reliably seal the connection, no winding or excessive effort is required. On the contrary, tightening it too tightly can lead to the destruction of the gasket and the appearance of a leak. It is enough to tighten it by hand until it stops, and then tighten it only ½ turn with a 22 or 24 key.

Of course, there will be some fuss with the metal-plastic eyeliner a little more– it is necessary to carefully measure the required segment, give it the required bend, and then tighten it in the appropriate compression fittings.

Video: connecting a mixer with a rigid connection

Usually, when connecting hoses or supply pipes, the following diagram is followed: on the left - hot water, on the right – cold.

If the sink was removed, then do not forget to connect it back to the sewer by replacing the siphon and inserting a corrugated hose with a sealing collar into the designated outlet of the sewer pipe.

In fact, that’s it, you can turn on the water supply and try the mixer in operation. There is, however, one more subtlety - it is recommended to start by pouring water with the tip removed - the aerator. The fact is that small inclusions can accumulate in pipes, hoses, or even in the mixer itself, which can quickly clog the holes of this nozzle. After several liters of water have drained, it is easy to install the aerator in its normal place.

When starting up for the first time, be sure to check all connections for leaks. If there are signs of leakage, these deficiencies must be corrected immediately with a small tightening.

The article discussed the most common installation methods kitchen faucets. However, you may encounter more complex options.

• So, for example, if the faucet spout is a shower head on a retractable hose, then you will have to make another switching and adjustment.

At the bottom there will be a hose (position 1 in the diagram) with or without corrugated braiding, about 1.5 m long, with a fitting at the end. This fitting, after installing the mixer in its regular place, is screwed into the socket intended for it on the body. A sinker is installed on the most flexible hose (position 2) - it will return it to its place and hold it in this position, and at the same time will serve as a limiter on the length of the hose. The position of this sinker can be changed using a locking screw.

• Another option is when the mixer spout has two channels - for regular tap water and for purified drinking water. On such models, an additional fitting is provided (item 3) for connecting another hose coming from the system installed under the sink and for post-cleaning.

The mixer for drinking water is turned on using a separate tap or lever (item 4).

There are also more “sophisticated” schemes - with thermostats located under the sink, autonomous boilers, electronic control units, mechanical traction associated with the drain plug of the sink bowl, and others. The installation technology in this case should be described in detail in the proposed product data sheet. However, if there are any ambiguities in this matter, you should not engage in amateur activities - it is better to invite a specialist.

The faucet is integral to the kitchen sink and the work involved in installing the sink includes installing the faucet on the sink. Read about options for installing a faucet in a kitchen sink in this article.

Two options for installing the mixer

There are two fundamentally different options installation of a sink mixer. These options for the selected sink differ, or more precisely, whether there is a hole in the sink for installing a mixer.

In the next two photos we see two different types of kitchen sinks. The first sink has a standard diameter factory hole for installing a faucet. The second sink does not have such a hole. This means that you can make a hole for the faucet yourself or install the faucet on the countertop next to the sink.

The option of drilling a hole yourself is possible, but has a number of disadvantages. First of all, in the place of the factory hole for the faucet, manufacturers of metal sinks strengthen the sink. Thanks to this, the mixer stands firmly on the sink and does not “play” with the metal. If you drill a hole yourself, the mixer may vibrate after installation. In addition, drilling the sink yourself will damage its anti-corrosion coating at the drilling site.

Therefore, if there is no hole in the sink, then the mixer is placed on the countertop. In the photo we see options for installing a mixer next to the sink.

Stages of installing a faucet on a sink

The mixer is installed on the sink before it is installed on the countertop. It is more convenient and technologically better.

The mixer is connected to the water supply after installing the sink with installed mixer on a countertop or kitchen cabinet. It is better to assemble the mixer on a comfortable surface.

To assemble, prepare yourself, a mixer with an installation kit and flexible liner. The installation kit is included with the mixer and includes:

• Gaskets;
• Fastening washer;
• Studs (stud) fastenings with nuts.

This is the most common option for attaching the faucet to the sink, which can be called standard.

The flexible hose is screwed to the faucet before installing the faucet. There is no need to wind the flax under the thread.

To tighten the liner at its end there is a hexagon for an open-end wrench No. 10. The tightening must be done with a slight increase in order to avoid cracking the gaskets on the hose.

After attaching the hose, screw the fastening sleeves into the mixer body (if they are included separately and not assembled at the factory).

After assembling the mixer, it is installed in the sink hole. Don’t forget to install the gasket between the sink and the mixer, which comes with the mixer. The gasket can be pressed into the mixer body.

WITH reverse side When washing, we put a special gasket and a washer of the same profile on the mounting bushings. Next, screw the faucet to the sink with nuts, tightening the nuts until they stop.

Installation of the faucet on the sink is completed

To ensure that the fastening does not weaken over time, we fix the first nuts with second nuts, which are not included in the mixer kit and must be purchased in advance.

The result of the installation should be a strong fastening of the mixer, it should not wobble, the liner should be on the mixer.