There is nothing complicated in such a process as the technology of laying tiles on a wall; there are simply a couple of subtleties that every novice master should know. That's exactly what we'll talk about.

Tiling the bathroom

Surface preparation

Tools for preparatory work:

• Chisel;
• Hammer (for removing tiles);
• Sponge (for removing wallpaper);
• Primer;
• Brush;
• Beam;
• Nozzle – whisk;
• Glue container;
• Glue mixture;
• Level.

In order to begin the main stage of work, you should take care of intermediate, preparatory matters, which are also included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

To do this, you must first remove all old finishing, be it wallpaper, panels, .

Regarding the tiles: be sure to remove all trim from the wall! There are tips on the Internet that say that you can beat off the top coating, and then the technology of the wall will not be damaged, however this recommendation relevant ONLY for floors.

When installing, be sure to use crosses

What needs to be determined is the magnitude of these particular shortcomings. If they are more than 1 cm, then you should start leveling the walls, since otherwise the adjustment will be due to a greater application of the mixture.

So, if the wall is more or less even, . These actions, in principle, are not mandatory, but are still recommended, since as a result you will improve the adhesion between the mortar and the wall, which will automatically increase the quality of the masonry.

While the primed wall dries, you can attach the beam to the wall, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall is based mainly not on the floor line, which may be uneven, but on the beam, which, of course, is installed at the level of the second tile from the bottom.

Now that preparatory work, included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, are completed, we can knead the adhesive mixture.

It is best, of course, to use a special attachment - a mixer, because you still won’t be able to mix the mixture uniformly by hand.

Laying tiles

Installation of tiles on the wall

To lay tiles on walls you need to prepare the following tools:

• Master OK;
• Notched trowel;
• Level;
• Rubber hammer;
• The tile itself;
• Plastic limiters - crosses.

Proper technology for laying ceramic tiles on a wall involves applying the mixture to the wall, and not to the tile.

It is allowed to apply glue to the tiles only if the wall has unevenness, which you can correct with more mixture.

So, apply the mixture to the wall (on a part, about two rows of tiles; of course, you shouldn’t cover the entire surface), level it with a notched trowel and take hold of the tile.

They put it against the wall and pressed. However, try to do this without excessive enthusiasm; don’t put too much pressure.

The correct technology for laying tiles on a wall involves constantly using a level to correct the installation of the tiles themselves. To do this, as soon as you lay the tiles on the wall, take the above tool in your hands and check the resulting surface for horizontalness. If the edge protrudes, you need to gently tap it with a rubber mallet, but if the tile is “recessed,” you need to dismantle it and reinstall it.

So, moving behind the tiles, you lay out 2-3 rows. Now stop and take a breather. It is needed to give the solution time to set, because otherwise the laying of tiles on the wall may simply not withstand the pressure of the upper rows and collapse.

To regulate the thickness of the seams, be sure to use special regulators when laying ceramic tiles, only then will the seams be even and even.

While you are waiting for the setting time of the solution indicated on the packaging according to the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it makes sense to start trimming the tiles.

Cutting tiles at home

Ceramic tiles can be cut using several tools:

• Manual tile cutter;
• Electric tile cutter;
• Glass cutter;
• Bulgarian;
• Wire cutters.

Most best option for you - manual tile cutter. The electric analogue is in no way worse, even better, but its cost is one level higher.

A glass cutter and nippers are also a good choice, however, unfortunately, not every tile can now be cut with a glass cutter, since the quality of the material is sometimes much better than you expect.

But the Bulgarian is enough complex instrument, and also dangerous, which is why it is not advisable for you to contact it if you do not know how to use it.

It is recommended to cut tiles for walls and floors during the process of laying ceramic tiles, since often craftsmen do not take into account that there will definitely be seams during laying, and as a result, the tiles have to be cut, and it will be much more difficult to carefully cut the tiles into a small piece, believe me .

The final stage included in the technology of laying tiles on the wall is grouting the joints.

Grouting tile joints

You will need the following materials:

• Fugue;
• Dilution container;
• Rubber spatula;
• A piece of cable for jointing;
• Water;
• Sponge.

There is nothing complicated in grouting tiles, you just need to remember that you should start this process only at least a day after laying it on the floor, walls or any other surface.

Important! Dilute the mixture in small portions; you should not dilute the entire package at once, the solution sets quickly enough, and it will not be possible to use it half-hardened and with lumps.

The fugue is applied to the seams with a rubber spatula and carefully embroidered with a suitable piece of cable. We have a number of materials that will definitely help you understand this in more detail.

So, in principle, that’s all you need to clearly understand the technology of laying tiles on the wall, and we’re sure you’ve figured out this issue!

Ceramic floor tiles are attractive to apartment and house owners for a number of characteristics. It is easy to care for, you can choose an interesting pattern, and manipulate the visual sense of space. Laying ceramic tiles on the floor is a job that is easy to do with your own hands. At the same time, the return heated floors under such a coating will be very effective, which further increases the attractiveness of the ceramics.

An indispensable requirement for quality results

To lay ceramics on the floor with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the base. It could be concrete screed or hard flooring made of boards or plywood on joists.

Laying porcelain tiles on the floor, as well as regular ones, on your own on a prepared surface will make it easy to install electric heated floors from film heaters. In this case, long-term trouble-free operation systems.

Repair of existing coating

If the concrete screed in a house or apartment good quality, with an acceptable difference in surface levels, durable - can be carried out redecorating, if required. For this:

• damaged areas or areas that have begun to crumble are removed, the resulting depressions are filled with tile adhesive and rubbed down;
• in order to lay ceramic tiles without unnecessary difficulties, it is worth using a grinder to cut off concrete sagging or protruding, sharp protrusions of mortar on the screed if possible;
• large cracks are cleaned, cuts are made across their direction with a grinder at a distance of 10-15 cm, after which the seam is filled with adhesive and the surface is rubbed.

After such repairs, the screed is ready for final processing. You can easily lay tiles on it with your own hands, working with an even layer of glue, carefully controlling the level of the upper plane of the ceramics.

When repairing an existing screed, work is carried out only if the difference in coating levels reaches 5-10 mm. This is exactly what the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the floor requires in order to achieve optimal coating quality. If the height difference is greater and rough repairs will not help level it out, it is necessary to do preliminary leveling.

Pre-leveling work

Since the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the floor requires a certain difference in the heights of the base per linear meter of the surface, in order to obtain good performance it makes sense to make a layer bulk mixture over the existing screed.

This method is rational in terms of price and quality of the resulting coating if you use compositions based on cement or gypsum. They are inexpensive, dry quickly, and require minimal qualifications of the performer.

The installation of floors made of ceramic tiles, for which preliminary leveling is being done, must be carefully assessed in section permissible load on the interfloor ceiling. If we're talking about about a leveling layer of 5-10 mm and you plan to lay ceramic tiles on a screed - problems are unlikely to arise. But if you want to lay porcelain stoneware on a floor that has a large mass, it is better to remove the existing screed.

It is necessary to make a leveling pre-leveling screed after the procedure preliminary preparation surface, which will be discussed later. This way you can reduce both material consumption and improve the service life and strength characteristics of the self-leveling layer.

Creating a new screed

If the existing screed is not in good condition, there are traces of exposure to moisture due to its capillary vertical upward movement, there are signs of destruction and a significant difference in levels - such a base for ceramic tiles is not even considered.

Laying tiles should be carried out only after dismantling the old one and creating a new screed. The latter can be done using several methods at once, for example:

• Cleaning is carried out up to the interfloor ceiling, debris is removed, waterproofing and insulation are installed. After this, the beacons are installed, a damper tape is placed and a screed of cement-sand mixture is laid;
• if the difference in heights between floors does not exceed 100 mm, the installation of ceramic tile floors can be done using one self-leveling layer of a mixture of the “thick floor” class.

For best results In terms of cost, you can make two layers of screed, preliminary and finishing. At the same time, it is possible to reduce total weight and the cost of the finished coating. There are other methods for creating a level base for installing ceramic tiles on the floor. However, listing them all is not within the scope of this article.

Selecting a material for durability

So that the tiles laid on the floor with your own hands serve for a long time and do not lose their appearance, it is necessary to purchase a product of the required wear resistance class. The corresponding marking is placed on the ceramic packaging. Materials are divided according to PEI characteristics:

• Class I is the softest. It is suitable if you plan to lay tiles on the wall;
• II – if you lay such a tile on the floor with your own hands, it will last a long time only if you walk on it in felt slippers;
• III - suitable for laying tiles on the wall in rooms that require frequent and thorough cleaning, as well as for average apartments, as well as offices with low traffic.

Class IV is optimal in terms of price and quality. It is durable, wear-resistant, such ceramic tiles in the apartment will last a long time without the need to change the established habits of the owners. The most expensive class V, which is the leader in terms of wear resistance, is aimed at premises with a huge traffic of people, for example, shopping centers and large stores.

Product quality assessment

When buying tiles, you should evaluate its quality by visual cues and product labeling. It is easy to separate individual products based on the nature of their reaction to chemistry and ultraviolet radiation.

Packages are marked as AA - the most resistant products, A - minor changes are observed with prolonged exposure, B - small and medium reaction, C - loss of aesthetics in a relatively short period of time. If you plan to make ceramic tile flooring yourself, you should give preference to a product labeled AA.

The types of ceramics are distinguished in the same way. It is determined by the color of the markings on the packaging. From red (1st grade) to green (3rd grade). But you can also evaluate the product visually. This is just as important as knowing how to lay ceramic tiles on a floor.

1. The surface is inspected. It should be smooth. If we are talking about ceramics with glaze, sagging and bubbles of the coating are not allowed.
2. There should be no chips along the edge or area, small mesh or large cracks.
3. Good geometry is the key to ensuring that knowledge of how to properly lay a coating will coincide with reality. To evaluate the correctness of angular and linear dimensions, as well as the edges of the tiles - you need to lay several elements side by side and look at the alignment and the presence of gaps.
4. It is useful to check the moisture resistance. To do this, the back side of the tile is wetted. It should not absorb moisture intensively.

For flooring, you should choose durable, heavy ceramics with a thickness of at least 8 mm. It will be able to withstand the load and shock from falling heavy objects if you know how to lay it correctly.

It is recommended to choose non-slip tiles for kitchens, bathrooms, and restrooms. This may be a product with a matte or ribbed surface. Ceramics with a special abrasive or corundum surface coating have more interesting visual characteristics.

Preparing the base for installation

Before laying tiles or porcelain stoneware on the floor, the surface must be prepared. To do this they do:

• removal of debris and dust;
• wet cleaning;
• after drying - deep penetration.

Separately, it is worth considering concrete and the case when a new coating is placed on existing ceramics. In the first case (concrete), the second priming is recommended to be done with compounds based on epoxy based. In the second (laying on tiles or other non-absorbent base), treat with concrete contact class mixtures to form a durable and rough surface to which the glue will adhere well.

How to work with tiles

There are many algorithms for laying tiles, considering ease of use and manipulation visual space. Eg:

• separate functional areas rooms can be divided using separate laying structures or divided patterns;
• in small rooms, as well as for novice craftsmen, it is more convenient to work with tiles, starting from the free wall farthest from the door;
• V large rooms styling should be done from the center. To do this, markings are done with cords that extend from the middles of opposite walls.

Laying can be carried out in classic rows with the formation of a grid of seams. The diagonal method is popular, but this type of work will require more material and accuracy.

There is also a technique brickwork, when the tiles in each subsequent row are shifted relative to the previous one by half the size. Artistic algorithms for creating a drawing, which require a lot of planning, are discussed separately.

How to work with porcelain stoneware

Porcelain tiles on the floor should only be laid from the center of the room. In this case, the trimmed parts will be located around the perimeter of the room. The complexity of working with porcelain stoneware is determined by the special nature of the size proposals finished product. It is divided not by geometry, but by delta tolerances.

Each standard size is called a caliber. For example, for 300x300 tiles, calibers of 298x298 or 302x302 mm are allowed. It is often very difficult to select porcelain stoneware elements if for some reason the purchased material is not enough. Therefore, it is always necessary to purchase tiles with a reserve.

The techniques for forming patterns on the floor are similar to the rules for working with ceramics, except that the installation must be done from the center. Additionally, porcelain stoneware offers greater creative freedom in terms of creating interesting drawings styling

Method of laying ceramics

Let's look at how to lay ceramic tiles. For this purpose, a wide range of ready-made adhesive compositions is used. The work algorithm looks like this:

• apply a layer of glue with a spatula;
• it is leveled with a notched trowel;
• the lower surface of the tile is wetted with water from a spray bottle;
• Using plastic crosses, the laying element is placed in its place, forming even seams.

The installation is constantly checked for surface level. The protruding tiles are tapped with a rubber mallet. If the element is below the horizon, it must be removed and a little glue added.

Method of laying porcelain tiles

Working with porcelain stoneware is somewhat difficult. Firstly, special adhesive compositions are used that are designed to work with non-absorbent materials. Secondly, there are two methods for laying the coating. They look like this:

• The tiles are laid without a seam. This requires solid qualifications of the performer and high quality preparation of the base. The result is a continuous, visually attractive coating;
• The tiles are laid with a seam. In this case, the working method is as follows: each tile is placed close to the adhesive base to the already assembled covering, without a seam, then moved away using special wedges. The purpose of this action is to obtain a clean gap free of glue.

Working with porcelain stoneware is somewhat different from ceramics. Before use, the material should be cleaned of the protective layer. Waxy – removed warm water With detergent. Paraffin - cleaned off with a spatula.

When laying porcelain tiles on a layer of glue, the master has 10-15 minutes. During this time, you need to form seams, adjust the position of the element, and level the level.

Adhesive compositions for porcelain tiles have one feature: they shrink. Therefore, it is recommended to do the installation without stopping, so as not to make allowances for the fact that the coating assembled before the break has become lower in level and this factor must be taken into account when leveling.

Before rubbing the seams, you must wait a certain time for setting and complete hardening. adhesive composition. It averages 48 hours for tiles and a minimum of 72 for porcelain stoneware. During the drying process, there should be no drafts in the room; you should not walk on the coating. For grouting, any compositions offered on the mass market are used.

The work ends by removing the remaining grout mixture and thoroughly cleaning the surface of the tile or porcelain stoneware. If everything was done carefully and slowly, the laid coating will last a long time, fully revealing positive traits selected finishing materials.

Ceramic tile flooring is quite popular. This material is often used to decorate floors in the bathroom, toilet or other utility rooms(for example, a boiler room). Laying floor tiles with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive process. It requires care and accuracy. And we will tell you how this is done in this article.

Preparatory work

Ceramic tile laying work requires preparation. The first thing you need to do is stock up necessary tool. You will need:

• trowel, notched and wide spatula;
• building level and ruler;
• marker or pencil;
• tile cutter;
• hammer (simple and rubber), pliers, drill or hammer drill;
• plastic crosses for aligning seams;
• primer, grout, adhesive;
• ceramic tile.

To calculate the required number of tiles, you should resort to simple mathematics. Knowing the area of ​​the room, divide it by the area of ​​one tile. In this case, it is worth taking into account the width of the seams, 2–5 mm. As a result, you will receive the required amount of material. Add 10-15% to this value. This reserve is necessary; the tile may crack during operation, or you may cut a piece incorrectly.

It is imperative to make a reserve. The fact is that the shades of tiles can vary even in the same batch. Therefore, if you are missing just one square, it will be very difficult to find the right color.

Now you need to prepare the surface. Remove all items from the room (furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc.). If it was on the floor old tiles, you need to get rid of it. You also need to do the same with the old adhesive mass. A hammer drill with a special attachment in the form of a spatula or a chisel with a hammer will help you with this.

When performing dismantling work, do not forget about own safety. Put on your glasses, mask, and gloves on your hands.

The next step is to clean the entire surface. Remove large and small debris, sweep away dust and sand (or vacuum). Then start leveling the base. If dismantling results in large depressions or bulges, then leveling should begin with them. The bulges are knocked down with a chisel, and the depressions are sealed with cement-sand mortar. Then it is laid on the concrete floor sand-cement screed and it is leveled. At each stage, check the levelness using a level. Unevenness is allowed in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm.

If the room has wooden floors, then the leveling technology is different. First of all, the boards must be impregnated with a special oil-based paint. When the surface is dry, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Then a reinforcing mesh is mounted to a height of 4-5 cm (for this you can use nails that are not completely driven into the floors). And only after that the entire area is filled with a leveling mixture (sand-cement mortar).

In rooms with wooden floors It is allowed to use thick plywood as a substrate (thickness of at least 12 mm). But the sheets must be laid on a surface without significant unevenness. Otherwise, under the weight of the tiles and the adhesive mass, the plywood may bend and break.

We carry out the markings

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with markings. The first step (especially if you are installing for the first time) is to do a dry layout. The tiles are placed in place without adhesive. This way you can calculate everything (where you need to cut, where difficult angles are formed, etc.). When laying out, do not forget about future seams between the tiles.

There are two main ways to lay out slabs.

The easiest one is to start from one far corner of the room. This method is considered the fastest. This is how all novice tilers lay, or if they have to work in small narrow rooms, or rooms with complex geometry.

The second method is more complex - laying from the middle of the room to the sides. This is how tiles are laid in large and free rooms. In this case, the room is divided into four equal parts. The first line is drawn from the middle of one wall to the opposite, the second is also in the middle, perpendicular to the first. Laying begins from any corner formed in the center of the room. In this case, you will have to cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room. When using this method of installation, a more attractive pattern is formed.

You can also choose the direction of laying the tiles. Can be laid diagonally or in the usual straight way. The first one looks much more beautiful, but to create it you need to have experience in such work. That is why the second installation method is much more common.

Whatever method you use, you will still have to cut the tiles. It is important to remember one recommendation here. Try not to cut strips that are too narrow, they will look bad. Of the full tile, at least 20 percent of the area should remain. Also make sure that the most visible area is made of whole tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles

Now let's figure out in detail how to lay floor tiles. First of all, prepare the glue. If you purchased a ready-made mass, then carefully read the instructions. If you like dry glue, then you need to dilute it with water (also according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Since the process of laying tiles is quite long, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive mass in small portions. Otherwise, it will simply dry out and increase your financial costs.

Work is carried out squarely. That is, areas with an area of square meter and an adhesive mass is prepared for this area. After finishing one area, we move on to the next.

First you need to cover the entire area with primer. This will prevent the formation of mold and make the surface more suitable for high-quality bonding. Depending on the level of humidity in the room, the primer is made from one to three passes. Only after her completely dry You can start laying floor tiles.

The surface is slightly moistened, and a layer of adhesive mass is applied to it. Using a notched trowel, the glue is leveled. In this case, you need to ensure that voids and air bags do not form.

A layer of glue is also applied to the back of the tile. This is done using the same notched spatula. You need to cover the entire surface with a thin layer. The tile is then turned over and neatly placed in its place. In this case, you need to apply even pressure over the entire surface.

The tiles are leveled by gently moving from side to side. Horizontal evenness is checked using building level or using a simple stretched thread. If the tile lies below the desired level, then a little adhesive is added; if it is higher, the excess glue is removed.

To level the tiles on a plane, use rubber hammer. With its help, accurate blows are delivered. This way you can move the tile to the desired place.

An even gap must be left between the tiles. Its accuracy is achieved by using special plastic crosses. They fit into the resulting seam. If the tiles are aligned along the crosses, the gap will be smooth and neat. Such a seam (2-5 mm wide) is needed to prevent the coating from swelling.

Near the walls you will have to cut the tiles. This is done using a tile cutter. A line is carefully drawn along the ruler, and then the tile is simply broken. But this must be done carefully.

Final stage

While working, you need to periodically wipe the already completed area of ​​masonry with a rag. This is necessary to wipe off any remaining adhesive before it hardens. And after laying the entire flooring, you cannot walk on it for at least two days.

After the glue has hardened, you can begin grouting the joints. For this, a special moisture-resistant putty is used. This work can be done using a rubber spatula. But first you need to clean the seams from construction waste and dust.

After all the seams have been rubbed, you need to clean the entire floor of debris with a rag. Then the grout is given a day to dry and you can begin wet cleaning.

This completes the tile laying work. You can learn some tricks and installation techniques by watching videos and photos.

Video

Video material about the features of laying tiles on the floor:

Photo

Bathroom renovations are rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if they have already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: to hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried-and-true tiler in mind and a certain amount of money (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire him. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively smooth, everything should work out without any particular difficulties. But just before laying tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with choosing a tile. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So, let's check:

From experience, it is worth saying that ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you shouldn’t do is buy tiles “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it? Take only what you hold in your hands.

What are the tiles placed on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do it this way, but it will be more difficult. For more comfortable work use ready-made compositions They are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, which is why they sometimes say that tiles are “glued” to walls. Compositions come in two types:

• in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
• in bags - dry mixtures that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixtures. If necessary, they can be used to correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows adjustments to be made some time later. They work with mastic according to perfect wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it according to specific tasks. So there are formulations that contain additives that increase water repellent properties walls or floors. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant ones, this will come in handy if you put it in unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will prevent fungi and mold from developing, which is in demand in damp rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying tiles on the wall, carry out whole line preparatory activities. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is extremely undesirable to skip it: not every master, let alone beginners, can lay tiles properly on uneven, unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating and anything that may fall off is removed from the walls. If there greasy spots, they are taken out, or part of the plaster is simply cut down along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapping wooden hammer, determining by sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet been blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. That’s why you do all these places yourself.

A flat plank is applied to the cleaned base and an assessment is made of how smooth or crooked the walls are. If the wall surface is very convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to a level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively flat, only indentations that are too large are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or holes) that are more than 5 mm. Protrusions need to be cut off, holes need to be filled plaster mixture, widen the cracks, moisten them and also cover them with plaster.

We prime

It is advisable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. “Betonokontakt” or another composition with similar characteristics is best suited for these purposes. It penetrates to a fairly large thickness deep into the wall, connecting all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, and tile adhesive “sticks” to it very well.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. To put it quite simply, you can lay out the first row right from the corner, following the floor line. But the first row will become level and without problems only if the floor is perfectly level, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will be trimming the tiles to somehow get vertical joints. As a result of these prunings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the “start” points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that have to be placed in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want all the tiles to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turns out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try laying it out from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.

When placing tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In the bathroom this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, arrange (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. This way you will find how to trim the tiles of the top and bottom rows.

There is another way to arrange it vertically: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be trimmed. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. He usually serves Starting point. This is where the laying of tiles begins.

Start line

Based on the layout results, you have a line where the first row ends. It is at this height that a flat bar is nailed. Resting the tile on it, place the starting row, and all subsequent rows on it. The last row to be installed is the first row, into which the tiles will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support strip, but a flat dry block can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten them often enough so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check that it is installed horizontally. There shouldn't be even the slightest deviation.

How to lay tiles on a wall

The technology for laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few nuances about the complete process. First, in the marked places on set bar glue the outermost whole tiles (those that do not need to be trimmed). When laying out, you noted their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each one is checked with a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the geometry of the tile is ideal, you can also check the verticality/horizontalness along the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, using this bar, they check whether each subsequent tile is positioned correctly.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology; after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

Wall adhesive thickness

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, they may have questions about how thick the adhesive layer is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are perfect, you can apply minimum layer, permissible in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively flat, the “starting” layer can be 3-4 mm. Then, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. It is not always the case that glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some craftsmen apply the composition only to the wall, others - only to the tiles, some recommend dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not do this. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on both the wall and the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly flat base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With other techniques, consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But you should definitely listen to the prescribed sizes of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are placed. Fusing pads are attached to the platform along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the help of a handle, ripping through the durable coating. A stop is usually installed on the same handle, with which the tiles are broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. Besides, you won’t be able to make a perfectly even cut, but it will work in case of an emergency.

If necessary, round holes cut out using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, to ensure that there is as little dust as possible, the work area is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole and everything looks decent.

If you need to cut too much thin strip, you won’t be able to do this with a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disk or rod (for some companies, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be smoothed out a little with a file or sandpaper attached to a block.

Decoration of corners

If the tiles are laid evenly, the internal corners do not raise any questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they are not in the way or break off the protruding parts. In general, they join neatly in the corners, and the final seam is formed using grout.

Available for internal corners more profiles. They are matched to the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, the tiles rest on them. This results in a finished fillet seam.

External corners are more difficult. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To arrange it properly outside corner you have to cut the edge at 45°.

This can be done using a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work with a grinder. The first cut, approximately under the right angle, made with a smooth diamond disc. There should be no slits or holes in it, and the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smooth, and the outer edge is quite thick. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters using a grinding attachment with the same disc. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to bother with such trimming, there is another option - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video about how you can design junctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing kitchen apron ceramic tiles the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The “start” location is determined by the height of the tabletop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Attach the bar at the required level, align it exactly with the horizon, and you are ready to begin.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on the work wall. If it is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from small-sized tiles, the undercuts may not be very noticeable. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

Ceramic tiles have long been used for flooring. It is durable, wear-resistant, practical and beautiful material. Of course, only professionals can achieve exclusive finishing. But it’s quite possible to make the floor in the toilet, bathroom or kitchen with your own hands. Be persistent and everything will work out. Even if you break several tiles, the savings will still be many times greater.

What are the characteristics of ceramic products?

• composition of raw materials: from red, white, colored clay;
• manufacturing method: pressed, extruded;
• firing: single, double;
• material structure: porous, dense;
• type of coating: glazed, unglazed.

For deviations up to 10 cm, first apply a leveling cement-sand mixture, and after drying, apply a self-leveling one.

The wrong choice of mixture will cause the surface to crack or be poorly leveled, which will lead to additional costs and wasted time to correct the work.

If you plan to lay tiles over an old tile base, no leveling mixtures will be needed.

Finally, ceramics can be laid on a wooden floor, having previously strengthened it. For preliminary cladding, cement-fiber boards will be required.

Step 3. Purchasing everything you need

So, the layout design has been chosen, the method of preparing the base has been outlined. What materials you will need:

Basic:

• ceramics;
• glue;
• grouting joints (in the vocabulary of builders - fugue);
• impregnation;
• plastic dividing crosses.

Auxiliary (base preparation):

• self-leveling mixture (or cement-fiber boards);
• primer primer;
• roll or coating waterproofing;
• quartz sand;
• degreasers.

What tools will you need:

• glue container;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;
• Master OK;
• spatulas: toothed metal for applying glue and narrow rubber for grouting;
• manual roller or electric tile cutter, as an option - tile cutter, glass cutter;
• tungsten string with diamond coating;
• a hacksaw blade for metal or a jigsaw for cutting out (for attaching the string);
• a ring bit for drilling holes, or a ballerina drill;
• roulette;
• marking cord;
• pencil;
• square;
• short (up to 300 mm) building level;
• metal rule or level 1.5 m long;
• rubber mallet.
• protective glasses.

Step 4: Preparing the floor

In order for the coating to adhere securely to the base and not fall off or crunch underfoot, the base should not be loose or flexible (unsteady). After the revision, determine whether something needs to be done with the base, and if so, then what exactly. Based on the results of the audit (step 2), a decision is made on how to strengthen the foundation.

Concrete base:

Loose, flaking areas are scraped off manually (with a chisel) or with a hammer drill with a flat attachment. Clean the surface from dust, dirt and grease deposits using chemicals. Level the base using a solution based on one or another leveling mixture.

Apply a layer of liquid primer. Glue the roll or coating waterproofing. Sprinkle on top thin layer quartz sand (for better adhesion of the adhesive to the base).

In order to lay the new coating on old tile, sand the base using a rotary or surface grinder(round metal brush, abrasive wheel, abrasive tape).

On a wooden floor:

Cover the base with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) 20 mm thick (for dry rooms) or cement particle boards (CSP) 10 - 15 mm thick (in rooms with high humidity). The joints should not be located between the boards; for GVL they are filled special glue, for CBPB - elastic polyurethane mastic.

Step 5. Marking

The outline of a room is rarely perfectly rectangular. With a monochromatic floor finish, this is not noticeable. Perpendiculars tile joints emphasize the unevenness of the walls. How to reduce this illusion? Procedure:

If the walls are fairly straight (the difference in diagonals is no more than 1 cm), draw one of the marking lines parallel long side rooms.

Step 6. Preparing the glue

Dry mixture for tile adhesive is sold in 25 kg bags. To seal it, take an open container with a volume of 5 - 10 liters (empty plastic cans for paint, putty and other materials are suitable). The main thing is that the inside is dry, clean and free of grease.

Pour a certain amount of water into the container, then add the appropriate amount of dry mixture (the ratio is indicated on the packaging).

Make the first batch small until you feel how much of the solution you can use during its viability.

Take electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the contents until the solution acquires the consistency of sour cream and there are no unmixed lumps left in it.

To prevent the solution from separating, do not set the mixer speed too high.

Let the mixture sit for 10 - 15 minutes and stir again. The glue is ready to use.

Step 7. Styling

You can watch how to lay floor tiles in this video:

We dance from the stove. The first tile is laid according to the markings (step 5) according to the selected layout option. If work starts from the center of the room, choose a quarter of the marking opposite to the entrance, so as not to walk on the newly laid tiles.

Using a trowel, spread the amount of mortar on the floor for 2 to 3 tiles. Using a notched trowel with a cut width of 6 to 8 mm, smooth out the glue. Place the first tile in the corner of the marking, lightly press it on top with your hands or a level, checking its horizontalness with a short level. If necessary, adjust the horizon by recessing one edge of the tile using a rubber mallet or placing an additional portion of glue under it.

Install the next tile close to the first, place dividing crosses in the corners, some prefer to place them upright on the sides of the tile. Check horizontality and relative position with a long level. After the coated surface has been laid out, the next portion of the solution is placed and smoothed.

They put a few more pieces in place. After a while it will become clear: how many tiles you manage to put on one portion of the solution, after which the work will go faster. When the time comes to lay additional elements (not whole), they are cut to the required size. To pass various pipes make curly cuts. Laying is carried out starting from the far corners of the room and ending at the front door.

Step 8. Grouting the joints

The grout mixture is diluted to a thick paste, after which it is applied into the cracks between the tiles, trying to fill them to their full depth. Only then can you be sure that after some time cavities will not appear on the seams where moisture will penetrate.

The joints are filled with paste using a hard rubber spatula, making cross movements with it.
along the seam from left to right and vice versa, while holding it at an angle of 45° to the floor. Excess fugue is removed with the same rubber spatula, moving it along the seam perpendicular to the coating.

After about 20 minutes, the floor is finally wiped with a damp sponge, which is periodically rinsed to remove adhered grout particles. After complete hardening, the surface of the fugue is covered with sealant or impregnation for seams to protect it from moisture.

Subtleties of styling

We invite you to watch a video on laying tiles:

Some tips from the experience of tilers:

• For laying on the floor, it is better to choose ceramics with a matte surface;
• If possible, choose tiles without chamfers (roundings) at the ends. They visually increase the thickness of the seam, that is, if the seam is chosen to be 3 mm, then it will look like 5 - 6 mm;
• When choosing a notched trowel, it is assumed that the thicker the ceramic product, the wider the cutouts should be;
• For more durable adhesion, sometimes the back side of the tile is coated: apply a layer of glue with a notched trowel, and remove it with a flat one (coating “to peel off”);
• This method is also more reliable for gluing large-format products;
• To remove incorrectly laid tiles (especially if they are not located on the edge), special suction cups are used;
• The crosses are taken out without waiting for the glue to set completely;
• Before grouting ceramic products with a rough surface, to avoid contamination, they are first coated with a protective liquid;
• Tile seams should be slightly recessed relative to the tiles. To do this, after grouting, the seams are ironed with the end of a metal tube, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the width of the seam;
• Choose the correct time after which the coating can be wiped from the fugue. If you start too early, the grout will spread across the tile; if you wait too long, the grout will harden and you will have to scrape it off, with the risk of scratching the surface.

So, the technology of finishing a floor with ceramics does not present any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow all the tips and recommendations for tile work. More confidence in your abilities, and your new floor will delight you for many years.