greenhouse from plastic pipes you can easily do it yourself, since this material allows you to build structures of any shape and size. It will be light but durable, collapsible or stationary design with sheathing made of ordinary polyethylene or polycarbonate. In this article we will provide you with information on how to build such a greenhouse with your own hands at the lowest cost in one or more days.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material, types of structures

Plastic hot water pipes can be used not only for their intended purpose - installation of water supply or heating, but also for the manufacture of various lightweight and durable greenhouse structures.

The disadvantages include the fact that during thermal welding, the structure cannot be completely disassembled without damaging the integrity of the greenhouse frame. Under great physical stress, the pipe can bend and even break.

Types of greenhouses

There are several modifications of greenhouses made of plastic pipes:

• Arched type with polyethylene coating;
• With a gable roof with polyethylene coating;
• Arched type with polycarbonate casing;
• With a gable roof with polycarbonate sheathing.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

Before starting to build a greenhouse, it is necessary to resolve the issue of installing the foundation. If the greenhouse is needed only in certain months, then a capital foundation will not be required. We will make a wooden base.

You will need to choose a convenient and level place in the garden, making sure that the soil does not sag under the weight of the greenhouse. To cover the frame made of plastic pipes we will use polyethylene film.

Dimensions of the arched greenhouse:

• By bending the pipe 6 meters, we get the correct arc;
• The width of the greenhouse is 3.7 meters, height - 2.1 meters, length - 9.8 meters;

• When purchasing plastic pipes, pay attention to the manufacturer. Czech and Turkish companies offer high-quality pipes. If you want to save money, you can buy Chinese or domestic products.
• For strength, you need to take pipes intended for supplying hot water, with a wall thickness of 4.2 mm (inside diameter 16.6 mm and outside diameter 25 mm).
• Connecting fasteners made of thermoset - wall thickness 3 mm.
• We take fittings in accordance with the diameter of the pipes to ensure the strength and rigidity of the structure.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools for work

• Four boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 5 meters;
• Two boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 3.7 meters;
• Fourteen boards with a section of 2x4 cm - 3.7 meters.
• Six-meter plastic pipe with a diameter of 13 mm - 19 pieces.
• Three-meter fittings with a diameter of 10 mm - 9 pieces.
• Six-millimeter polyethylene film - size 6x15.24 meters.
• Wooden pieces of slats 1.22 m long - 50 pieces.
• Screws or nails.
• Fastenings (can be used for drywall).
• Butterfly hinges for doors - four pieces and two handles.

For the sides of the greenhouse:

From five beams 2x4 cm (length 3.7 m) it is necessary to make a frame for the sides of the structure:

• 11’8 3/4” = (2 beams) 3.6 m;
• 1’6” = (4 bars) 0.45m;
• 4’7” = (4 bars) 1.4m;
• 5’7” = (4 bars) 1.7m;
• 1’11 1/4” = (8 bars) 0.6m;
• 4’1/4” = (2 bars) 1.23m;
• 4 bars 1.5 meters long;
• 4 bars 1.2 meters long.

Tools for work:

• Hammer;
• Grinder and hacksaw for metal;
• Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
• Hand, electric or gasoline saw;
• Construction level and tape measure.

DIY greenhouse made of plastic pipes: assembly steps

1. To construct the base, we cut each reinforcement rod into 4 pieces. You should get 36 pieces of 75 cm each. To fix the pipes we need 34 pieces. We divide two segments into two equal parts and get 4 rods of 37.5 cm each.
2. We lay out the base of the greenhouse from 2x6 cm boards rectangular shape 3.7x9.8 meters. We connect the frame with screws or knock it down with nails. After making sure that all the angles are 90°, we fix pieces of reinforcement 37.5 cm long into them.
3. To construct a frame from pipes, you need to take 34 pieces of rod (75 cm) and hammer them at the same distance (about 1 meter) along two long sides the bases of the structure are parallel to each other, 17 pieces each. At the top there should be rods 35 cm long.
4. Next, we put 17 plastic pipes onto the reinforcement stakes driven in on both sides, bending them into an arc. We get a preliminary greenhouse frame.
5. We fasten the plastic pipes to the wooden base with metal plates using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
6. To install the end, it is necessary to assemble a structure from beams, as shown in the photo below. Install them into the greenhouse frame and connect them to the base with screws.
7. From a 2x4 cm beam we cut out 4 pieces 70 cm long. At one end of each beam we make an angle of 45°. These bars are designed to strengthen the ends. To do this, we fasten the end frame to the base, as in the photo below.
8. After we have made the frame, we need to make a stiffening rib at the top of the structure. To do this you need to connect plastic connector two pipes of 6 meters each, and cut off the excess to get a length of 9.8 meters. We secure the pipe using special ties to the central part of each of the 17 arcs.
9. Cover the greenhouse with plastic film. The entire greenhouse should be completely covered with film with a large overlap on the sides and length. On the larger side of the greenhouse, the film must be secured with prepared slats, nailing them to the base.
10. Then pull it well and secure it on the other side as well. We recommend starting to attach the film from the middle, gradually moving to the sides.
11. Advice: if you fix the film at a positive temperature, then in the future it will stretch and sag less.
12. On the sides, you need to pull the film down, carefully fold the excess into convenient folds, moving from the center to the edges, and nail it to the base with slats. Where the door is located, you need to cut a square for the opening, leaving allowances for fastening of about 5–10 cm. We wrap the film behind the opening and fasten it inside the greenhouse with nails or self-tapping screws.
13. Before final installation of the doors, it is necessary to check the actual dimensions of the opening, as they may turn out slightly different, and the door itself may not fit in size. To assemble the doors, you need to cut bars with a cross-section of 2x4 cm (4 bars 1.5 meters long and 4 bars 1.2 meters long). Make two frames out of them. You need to nail a beam diagonally for rigidity. We fasten the hinges to the opening with self-tapping screws. Doors should be on both sides of the greenhouse.
14. The remaining film will go on the doors. It must be pulled over the frames of two doors and secured wooden slats. There should be a film reserve of 10 cm on all sides.
15. We screw the handles and put the doors on the hinges.

Second version of ends

1. You can make the ends of the greenhouse from a sheet of fiberboard, chipboard or OSB. Wooden frame ends remains the same. Before covering the greenhouse with polyethylene, it is necessary to cut out elements from the selected sheets, as shown in the photo. We take measurements on site.
2. At the bottom we attach the sheets to the wooden base and on the sides to the frame using self-tapping nails. At the top you need to take long 6-meter pieces of foam rubber or other soft material and fasten together with them the first pipe of the structure and wooden ends. We do this using self-tapping screws so that the ends do not fall off in the future.
3. Then we stretch the film onto the greenhouse in the same way as in the first case, but now we do not give a large allowance at the ends. We secure it with slats. We install doors.

Greenhouse made of plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is one of the best coating options that will last for many years. This material is resistant to temperature fluctuations, has good thermal insulation properties, does not burn, and protects plants from UV rays.

The location for the greenhouse should be level and fully illuminated by the sun. If you will use the greenhouse in winter, then you need to install a heating system. Build large greenhouse not rational, since it will be difficult to maintain the required microclimate. The height of the structure should be no more than 2 meters. The width of the frame is selected depending on the number of seedlings.

Materials

• Plastic pipes (for hot water supply).
• Boards 10x10 cm.
• Beam - 2x4 cm.
• Polycarbonate sheets.
• Reinforcement - length 80 cm.
• Plastic tees.
• Metal staples, plastic clamps.
• Construction cord.
• Self-tapping screws, screws, nails.
• Sand, waterproofing material (roofing felt).

Parts for doors and windows

Tools for work

• High level of construction.
• Long tape measure 10 meters.
• Jigsaw.
• Knife for cutting plastic pipes.
• Electric or cordless screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Set of drills.
• Hammer.

Stages of assembling a greenhouse from plastic pipes and polycarbonate

• For the base, we take a 10x10 cm beam and treat it with antiseptic agents. We make blanks: two beams 3 and 6 meters long. We connect them into a rectangle using metal staples or self-tapping screws.
• We dig a trench under the base. We mark the perimeter with pegs and stretch the cord around the entire perimeter. To control the correctness of the angles, we also stretch the cord diagonally. Their length should be the same.
• The depth of the trench should be about 5 cm so that the timber is not completely buried in the ground. Sprinkle a small layer of sand at the bottom of the trench. We cover the beams with roofing felt and lower them into the trench to avoid contact of the tree with wet soil. We overlap the waterproofing. We fill the remaining space with earth and compact it well.
• We cut the reinforcement into 14 rods about 80 cm long. We drive them along both long sides of the frame to a depth of 40 cm in increments of 1 meter. The rods must be located strictly opposite each other.
• We put pipes on the fittings, creating an arch. We fix them to the base using staples or clamps with self-tapping screws. We attach a stiffening rib from a plastic pipe at the top plastic tees, which must first be sharpened so that the pipe passes through them. Then the tees can be secured with self-tapping screws and the greenhouse will be collapsible.
• At the ends we make a structure for installing doors and windows. We make blanks of the required size from plastic pipes. We connect them using corners and tees into the structure shown in the drawings.
• To make hinges, we take a piece of pipe 10 centimeters long with a diameter of 1-1/4. Glue them together with glue PVC pipes together and fasten them to the frame with screws.
• We make the latches from the same piece of pipe, cutting off a fourth of it and cleaning the edges. We install the doors and windows on the sides of the greenhouse and secure them with latches or screw them with self-tapping screws.
• To cover a greenhouse with polycarbonate, you need to know several nuances: the fasteners are placed in increments of 45 mm, the sheets are mounted end-to-end and connected with a special fastening - a strip (or overlapped by several millimeters), holes are drilled 1 millimeter larger than the diameter of the screws. Sealed thermal washers are placed under the screws, the sheets are placed so that the cells are positioned vertically, the protective film is removed after final installation, and the corner lines are fastened with a special profile.
• Polycarbonate should only be stored in a dry place with low level humidity.
• Before laying polycarbonate on the structure, it is necessary to close the ends perforated tape and a side profile, which provides drainage and air circulation in the sheets so that condensate flows freely from the channels. We lay polycarbonate sheets protective film up. Otherwise, the material will quickly collapse.

Note to summer residents

• If the weather outside is too hot, then the doors of the greenhouse on both sides of the ends must be opened for ventilation.
• In the northern regions of the country, where there is heavy snowfall, it is necessary to remove the polyethylene for the winter, as it can stretch or tear greatly. Snow also perfectly protects the soil from freezing, helps retain nutrients in it and nourishes the soil with moisture.
• If you do not remove the film, then you need to put strong supports in several places of the frame.
• Instead of polyethylene, you can use durable film such as lutrasil, agrotex, agrospan, reinforced or bubble. The 11 mm thick reinforced film can withstand the weight of wet snow, hail and strong gusty winds.
• Light-stabilized polypropylene with aluminum reinforcement is resistant to thermal deformation and UV radiation.
• If possible, the area under the greenhouse should be concreted so that wooden base did not stand on open ground, if you will keep seedlings, and then large plants, in special boxes.
• The service life of plastic pipes indoors is about 50 years. They will last about 20 years outdoors.
• All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic agents.

Video: making a greenhouse from plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

Video: how to make a greenhouse from plastic pipes and polyethylene covering

Video: how to build a greenhouse from plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

https://youtube.com/watch?v=FezdC-E2iu8

A greenhouse in your country house will allow you to always have fresh vegetables and herbs. On your desk all year round There will be salads made from fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. You can build a strong and reliable greenhouse with your own hands using minimal costs, since you don’t have to pay craftsmen for work or buy finished design for a lot of money, but only for plastic pipes, several wooden blocks and plastic film.

PVC pipes have long been used for the manufacture of greenhouses and greenhouses, as this material is quite durable, flexible and reliable. You can make these products with your own hands, without the help of professionals. Both the collapsible and stationary design allows you to grow your favorite vegetables when the temperature outside is below freezing.

PVC pipes for building a greenhouse: pros and cons

PVC pipes are excellent and inexpensive material, which is used to create greenhouses and greenhouses various forms and sizes. In order to build them, a large number of tools and special skills are not required, so this type of construction is accessible even to summer residents or owners of private houses with little income.

Material advantages

This material has many advantages:

• assembly and disassembly of the structure occurs quite quickly;
• the disassembled structure does not take up much space;
• the construction of a greenhouse does not require professional skills in working with the material;
• light weight;
• availability of materials, their low cost;
• high degree of strength and stability of the finished structure;
• long service life (more than 10 years);
• the ability to create a greenhouse of any shape and size, monolithic structures;
• resistance to temperature changes and moisture, corrosion, growth of fungus and mold;
• environmental friendliness.

Disadvantages of PVC pipes and greenhouses made from them

There are few disadvantages of greenhouses made from PVC pipes, but they still exist. For example, when installing a structure in regions where strong winds prevail, it may become deformed. Polyethylene coating is short-lived and also has poor thermal insulation properties, so it will have to be changed every few years or purchased more expensive material such as polycarbonate. In winter, it will be impossible to use such a design in the northern regions of the country.

There are several types of greenhouses made of PVC pipes that you can make with your own hands.

1. Arched structures with polyethylene or polycarbonate coating.
2. Structures with a pitched roof attached to the main building.
3. Greenhouses with a gable roof with any type of covering.

Arched-type greenhouses are very popular, as they are easy and quick to erect and can be quickly dismantled if necessary.

Preparation for construction: drawings, dimensions, assembly diagrams

A greenhouse made from PVC pipes does not need a strong and expensive foundation, as it will lightweight design, which can be quickly disassembled. Therefore, the base can be made of wooden boards.

It is necessary to choose a suitable place on the site to place the greenhouse, check the soil so that it does not sag under the weight of the future structure. Do not forget to remove excess debris and vegetation from the site, and, if necessary, remove part of the top layer of soil.

Dense polyethylene film (preferably reinforced) is most often used as a coating.

Dimensions of an arched greenhouse

This parameter is determined not only depending on the preferences of the owner, but also on the size of the material itself.

Usually PVC pipes are sold standard sizes(3 and 6 m). Longer ones form an arc when bent correct form. Thus, the width of the standard structure is 3.7 m, length - 9.8 m, height 2.1 m.

The optimal pitch between pipes is 900–1000 mm.

Selection of materials

The quality of the product also depends on the material used:

What materials and tools are needed

To make a standard greenhouse, you need to prepare the following materials:

• five-meter boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 4 pieces;
• boards with a section of 2x6 cm, length 3.7 m - 2 pieces;
• PVC pipes 6 m long - 19 pieces;
• fittings 3 meters long (Ø10 mm) – 9 pieces;
• PVC film (thickness 6 mm) – 6x15.24 meters;
• wooden slats (length 1.22 m) - 50 pieces;
• nails or screws;
• metal fastenings;
• door hinges - 4 pieces;
• door handles - 2 pieces.

Materials for the ends of the greenhouse:

• timber 2x4 cm 3.7 m long for the frame;
• 11’8 3/4” - 2 beams 3.6 m long;
• 1’6” - 4 bars of 0.45 m each;
• 4’7” - 4 bars of 1.4 m each;
• 5’7” - 4 bars of 1.7 m each;
• 1’11 1/4” - 8 bars of 0.6 m each;
• 4’1/4” - 2 bars of 1.23 m each;
• 4 bars 1.5 m long;
• 4 bars 1.2 m long.

Required tools:

• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• electric screwdriver;
• hacksaw for metal;
• electric saw;
• building level;
• roulette.

DIY construction stages

Making a greenhouse with your own hands is very simple, you just need to follow the sequential instructions:

1. To construct the base of the greenhouse, you need to cut the reinforcement into 4 parts. You should get 36 identical sections 75 cm long. To attach the pipes you will need 34 pieces of reinforcement. Cut two of them in half, resulting in 4 rods 37.5 cm long.
2. Next, from boards measuring 2x6 cm you need to make the base of a rectangular greenhouse measuring 3.7x9.8 m. Knock down the boards with nails or twist them with self-tapping screws. Place the base on the site. Check the evenness of the corners (90°), hammer a piece of reinforcement (37.5 cm) inside each of them to secure the structure.
3. Drive 34 pieces of reinforcement at equal distances from each other (about 1 meter) along the long sides of the base. This should be done in such a way that the length of the rods on the surface is about 35–40 cm.
4. Place PVC pipes on the reinforcement rods driven in on both sides one by one, bending them into the correct arc. The result should be an almost finished greenhouse frame.
5. Use metal plates to secure the pipes to the wooden base. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are used for this.
6. In order to make the end part of the greenhouse, it is necessary to make a frame from beams. Install them into the structure frame and secure with screws.
7. Use a hacksaw to cut 4 pieces of 70 cm from the timber. Cut one end of each of them at an angle of 45°. They are necessary to strengthen the ends of the greenhouse. Fasten the frame of the side part to the base.
8. After the frame is assembled, it is necessary to make a stiffening rib at the top of the structure. To do this, use a special plastic connector to fasten 2 pipes, cut off the excess so that the total length is 9.8 m. Attach the pipe on top of the frame in the center with plastic ties to each of the 17 arcs.
9. Cover the pipe frame with thick plastic film with an overlap at the bottom. Then secure it firmly along one of the long sides using pieces of wooden slats.
10. Pull it with a little force on the frame, secure it on the other side. It is better to start doing this from the center, and then move to the ends.
11. The film must be pulled well down along the end parts of the frame. Nail it to the base with wooden slats. In the place where the door will be located, you need to cut a square, leaving allowances of 5–10 cm for attaching the frame. Carefully wrap the film behind the opening and secure it with nails or screws inside the greenhouse.
12. Before installing the door, you must carefully check the actual dimensions of the opening so that it fits exactly. To install it, you need to cut bars with a cross-section of 2x4 cm of different sizes (4 pieces each, 1.5 m and 1.2 m long). Knock down two frames from them, fix the beam diagonally for greater rigidity of the structure. Screw the door hinges to the opening with self-tapping screws.
13. The remaining film can be used for doors. To do this, stretch it over two frames, then also attach it with wooden slats. Screw on the handles and hinges. Place the doors on the prepared fasteners, check the evenness of the installation so that there are no distortions or large gaps.

The second option for constructing the ends of the greenhouse

There is another way to make the ends of the structure:

If you are making a greenhouse for the first time, it is recommended to listen to the advice of experts:

1. In order for the greenhouse to be effective, it is necessary to choose a location on the site with the maximum amount of sunlight. It is also important to consider what crops will be grown and inquire about the conditions necessary for rapid growth.
2. For the construction of an arched structure, it is best to choose flexible PVC pipes.
3. It is best to stretch plastic film over the greenhouse frame in the warm season.
4. If it is too hot outside, the greenhouse doors should be kept open to ventilate the room. Otherwise, condensation will collect under the film and turn into steam.
5. In the northern regions of the country, it is best to remove polyethylene for the winter, since during heavy snowfalls it can stretch or tear. In addition, the snow will reliably protect the soil from deep freezing, as a result of which all useful substances and moisture will be retained in the ground.
6. If the film is left for the winter, then it is necessary to install strong supports that will prevent the structure from falling.
7. Instead of polyethylene film to cover the frame, you can buy more modern and reliable materials, for example, lutrasil, agrospan, reinforced or bubble film.
8. Light-stabilized or reinforced polypropylene is one of the best coatings, as it is not subject to deformation when exposed to ultraviolet rays.
9. It is recommended to close the area under the greenhouse waterproofing film, onto which special soil and fertilizer are then poured. Thus, the plants can be protected from external influences and protected from pests.
10. If you make a concrete base, you can grow seedlings in boxes.
11. It must be remembered that the service life of PVC pipes is outdoors decreases significantly (up to 15–20 years).
12. All wooden elements of the greenhouse must be well treated with antiseptic agents so that they are not exposed to fungi and mold.

Video: how to quickly build a greenhouse from PVC pipes

A greenhouse made of lightweight PVC pipes will allow you to always have a maximum of fresh vegetables and herbs on your table. The costs of constructing such a structure will be minimal, and its efficiency will be maximum. By purchasing several plastic pipes, wooden boards and plastic film, you can independently build a convenient and reliable greenhouse on your summer cottage in one or two days.

Polymers are persistently displacing wood, glass and metal from industry and everyday life. They did not pass by summer cottages and country farms. Lightweight, durable plastics are not corroded by mold, evaporation, caustic chemicals, or moisture do not spoil them. Polymer greenhouse structures last longer than all types of outdated predecessors and withstand atmospheric adversity. The only disappointments are the price of greenhouse structures from manufacturers and the sizes, which do not always coincide with the needs of gardeners. There is no need to be discouraged: you can build a greenhouse yourself from plastic pipes without any problems or financial costs. However, it doesn’t hurt for an independent master to stock up on patience and knowledge of the nuances.

Plastic pipes are easy to cut, bend, glue, and weld. In greenhouse construction, polymer parts can even be connected with self-tapping screws, because water does not have to flow through their strong “veins”. The manufacturability of the material makes it possible to implement literally any complex project: from a greenhouse or arched mini-greenhouse to an impressive building for all-season use with gable roof or a fantasy polyhedron. You just need to decide in advance on the design that is priority in your own opinion and purchase suitable material. Because the family of polymer pipes suitable for DIY construction includes:

• rigid polyvinyl chloride representatives (PVC), not characterized by elasticity. They are used for the construction of gable and single-slope, “green houses”, i.e. designs with straight lines and edges, which were different from the wooden “ancestors”;
• flexible polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride counterparts (PP, PVC), from which they prefer to build arched structures or erect rounded roofs over a rigid frame made of hard plastic elements, metal profiles or wooden slats.

All types of polymer pipes are produced with fittings: cross and tee splitters, rotary connectors, adapters for joining pipes of different diameters. The use of fittings will significantly “revive” the pace of construction, but will increase the budget. We will attribute this fact to the personal preferences of the future owner and allow him to choose whether to use connectors or not.

There is one more criterion that needs to be determined “on the shore”. A self-created greenhouse made of plastic pipes can be stationary or collapsible. In the first case, the structural parts of the green house are welded or glued together forever, in the second they are screwed on with screws.

Regardless of the chosen project, the construction process includes a number of characteristic stages:

• construction of a base that replaces the foundation, because there is no reason to pour a concrete strip or support pillars under a light plastic building;
• assembly of a frame from flexible or rigid polymer pipes;
• fastening a light-conducting coating, which is best suited for plastic greenhouses using reinforced polyethylene film. Polycarbonate is used less frequently. But glass is strictly prohibited;
• production of end parts with vents and doors;
• hanging transoms, sashes, doors, locks.

Let's consider general rules and two common, quite accessible methods for a novice performer to build a house for tomatoes and cucumbers.

Base for polymer frame

Before delving into the research of the issue, how can you do it yourself? reliable design made of plastic pipes, you need to deal with the base. Those. with a frame that will hold the super-light frame and maintain its geometric parameters. The choice of the best base option is not related to the project and type of structure. Rather, it depends on the degree of capital of the building and on the funds available to the owner.

To make the base frame you can use:

• board, thickness 6, even better 8mm;
• timber with sides 6×12, 8×12 or more;
• a rigid plastic pipe that can only perform the function of the bottom trim.

Most often the basis for light plastic frame made from thick boards, because its load-bearing capacity is quite sufficient. For those who do not experience financial constraints or are planning to install a complete greenhouse, timber is suitable. It is connected by cutting half a tree without using hardware. This means that there will be no rusting metal parts in the wooden frame.

The timber base can be buried in the ground, for which you first need to dig a trench. First, roofing felt is laid around the perimeter of the trench, covering the bottom and walls of the dug trench, and then a wooden frame is installed.

A frame made of a polymer pipe cannot be considered an independent basis. It is constructed if there is a wooden, brick or concrete foundation. They are fastened either with staples to the beam or to anchor bolts fixed in the concrete during its hardening or in brickwork during the period of its establishment.

All listed options Compatible with any plastic greenhouse project. However, you need to take into account that if you have a foundation, you will have to forget about periodically changing the location of the green house. Therefore, we will consider the procedure for manufacturing the most popular and simplest type of base - a plank frame:

• We are preparing the site for construction. We remove a layer of turf from the area so that the area freed from it is longer and wider than the future structure by about a meter, so that it is retreated by half a meter around each side.
• We measure the surface with a construction spirit level. If necessary, level the site. The permissible height difference is 5 cm, distributed over 2 m.
• We assemble a wooden frame from four thick boards with pre-calculated individual dimensions. We fasten with two, preferably three, galvanized screws or nails. The length of the hardware is determined based on the thickness of the attached element: it should be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board.
• Using a tape measure, measure the frame diagonally in two directions. If the diagonal indicators match exactly, the base came out perfectly. If not, we look for and eliminate flaws.
• We install the assembled frame in the intended place and strengthen it by driving four pieces of reinforcement with inside corner. The length of the rod driven into the corner is 70-80 cm. The reinforcement sections need to be driven almost flush with the frame.

The process of making a board base will be demonstrated in the photo:

The wooden frame will be in contact with wet soil and will have to withstand the onslaught of precipitation. Therefore, the board or timber for the base should be well dried and treated with hot bitumen before assembly. It is also advisable to soak it in kerosene-butum antiseptic.

Do-it-yourself elementary greenhouse made of flexible pipes

To build a simple arched structure we will need:

• pieces of reinforcing bar 75 cm each. It is advisable to stock up on reinforcement Ø 10-12mm. It is better to choose A3, because smooth rods without embossed ribs are simpler and easier to drive into the ground. We calculate the number of pieces in advance. They are driven into the ground along the long sides at approximately 60 cm ± 5 – 7 cm. In order not to bother with dividing the reinforcing bars into parts, we order cutting to size from the seller;
• white flexible PVC pipe with walls no thinner than 3 mm. We purchase it based on the number of pieces of reinforcement intended for installation on one side. How many pieces there should be so many pieces 6 m long. Plus one more piece for the screed if the length of the greenhouse is up to 6 m. The classic school formula will help the buyer of material in coils to calculate more accurately, according to which they calculate the circumference (two-pi-er) . The result obtained should be divided by two and slightly adjusted if the arch is planned to be slightly elongated shape half oval type;
• plastic clamps for fastening the arches into a single structure with a tie. The number of clamps is equal to the number of sections of polymer pipe;
• metal mounting brackets; it is more convenient to take aluminum fasteners for drywall. They are needed to fix the arches to the wooden base. We purchase 2 per piece of pipe;
• polyethylene film 6 m wide. Excellent if you have enough money for reinforced material. We calculate the footage by summing the length and two heights. We add ≈ 1.0 m for reserve for unforeseen changes in dimensions in fact.

You will also need thin wooden planks for attaching the film about 50 cm long, timber for constructing the door frame and frame for the windows, nails, locks, screws, hinges for hanging the door and opening sashes. The craftsman will determine these costs directly on site.

We prepared the material, got inspired and started building an economical greenhouse from plastic pipes as follows:

• Along the long walls on both sides of the frame, we hammer in pieces of reinforcement with a sledgehammer so that no more than 40 cm remains above the surface.
• We put a piece of PVC pipe on the reinforcement bars located on opposite sides.
• We fasten the resulting arches to the wooden frame using metal staples.
• We arrange the ends of the structure by knocking together a doorway from a block, which will also act as a box. We reinforce the ends with additional wooden parts to ensure rigidity.
• We install the top tie of the arched structure. It should pass through all the highest points of the arches. We attach the screed to the arches with polymer clamps.
• Cover the structure with film, evenly distributing the stock. At both ends there should be pieces of polyethylene equal in size. We nail the covering through the planks to the frame. First, we nail the film along one long wall. We start from the middle of the wall, heading towards the corners. Then, having moderately stretched the covering, we nail it to the second wall of the frame using the same pattern.
• At the ends we decorate the film with peculiar folds and nail it.
• We will make the door and windows in advance. They must be covered with film and freely inserted/exposed into the frames intended for them.
• We cut holes for the door and window in the base of the covering, so that there is an overlap along the edges of the cut hole to fix the polyethylene to the beam.
• We screw on the hinges for the windows and doors, hang what should hang on the hinges, and install locks.

This simplest method will help you quickly build inexpensive greenhouse from PVC pipes. The principle of its construction is taken as the basis for numerous variations. The ends can be made of plywood, the dimensions of the door, the location and dimensions of the vents can be changed, stiffeners can be installed diagonally at the ends, etc. It is not necessary to nail the polyethylene with planks; instead, it is wiser to use a furniture stapler.

There are countless options. We invite you to familiarize yourself with useful video on the topic “how to competently build a greenhouse from plastic pipes”:

Technological path “from the reverse”

Surely, after familiarizing yourself with the simplest principle of constructing a greenhouse, doubts remained about the logical sequence of actions. Everything was good and simple until we got to arranging the ends. Then it is necessary to try on the already installed frame more than once to determine the appropriate position of the windows and doors. It is not easier to start by making the ends, as in the method described below:

• To the board, the length of which is 10-12 cm greater than the width of the planned greenhouse, we temporarily screw a 6-meter section of pipe with self-tapping screws to form the outline of the structure. We screw it in lightly at first so that the pipe can be slightly rotated to adjust the configuration. As soon as we achieve the ideal shape of the end, we screw it in with some effort, without being too zealous, so as not to damage the polymer part;
• We will make a frame for the door frame from a 2 cm thick board, selecting the optimal position of its parts at our discretion. To strengthen the frame, we will install oblique struts;
• glue the intersections of the door lintel and jambs, then screw two screws into the crosshairs;
• draw the outline of the arch on wooden parts frames to saw off excess;
• drill a small diameter hole in the center of the crosshair. We pass a plastic clamp through it to connect the frame and the plastic arch.
• We will strengthen the connections with plywood elements.

We do the same with the second end; we check its congruence with the first during the manufacturing process. It is very convenient to adjust parts of the structure until they are installed in the planned place. The second end can be equipped, by analogy with the first, with the same opening door. However, it is better to install a window into it, for the installation of which another smaller frame will need to be placed inside the existing frame.

An interesting point is the sheathing of the end with polyethylene, performed according to the following algorithm:

• We spread polyethylene on the ground, on which outer side We put the previously made end down;
• We fasten the covering with a stapler to the trim board from above so that the metal fastening brackets are on the inside of the future structure;
• wrap the free edge of the polyethylene over the end;
• We attach it to the slanting slats that strengthen the frame and cut off the excess;
• cut a hole in the middle of the polyethylene-lined end, departing 10-15 cm from the existing outline of the opening;
• We cut a hole in the corners, not reaching the frame 0.8-1.0 cm.

The final step is to fold in our plastic allowance and staple what we have folded.

The frame assembly scheme will be slightly different from the previous method. And although it is produced by analogy, bottom harness– that is, the basis in its normal understanding is absent. The first step is to hammer in the reinforcing pins, then install the ends. Then connect installed elements into a single structure with one or more ties. But there is less fuss with arranging the openings and it is easier to attach the light-conducting coating.

The polyethylene sheet is simply fixed on both sides at the base of the frame. A strip is simply placed on top of it, which is screwed to the plastic arches with self-tapping screws. Around the ends, the polyethylene must either be assembled as a frill, or attached to the end arch using clamps cut from a slightly larger pipe.

Construction of a frame with plastic walls

It often happens that standard height arcs homemade greenhouse inconvenient for tall family members. An ingenious invention of folk craftsmen will help to cope with the problem, according to which flexible PP and rigid PVC pipes of the variety are used in the construction. In order to increase the height, sections of rigid polymer pipe are first placed on the reinforcement pins driven into the base, to which arches are attached using plastic crosses and tees. There are no other fundamental differences, so instead of a description we will attach a photo selection:

Rules for building a greenhouse from rigid pipes

For adherents of traditional forms polymer pipes also present a lot of technological opportunities. The photo shows an example of the construction of a single-slope structure; gable options are constructed by analogy.

Any frame made of practical plastic pipes can be covered with polycarbonate. To fix it, you must use roofing screws with thermal washers. On the list of priorities polymer material There is only no possibility for glazing. But based on the above examples, without a doubt, a lot of your own ideas for building a green house will appear.

A greenhouse on a country plot not only decorates it, but also allows you to obtain a harvest of environmentally friendly vegetables for the whole family.

To achieve this goal, a PVC greenhouse built with your own hands is ideal. The standard designs offered on the market are not always suitable for the site in size and shape.

One of the popular ways to arrange this simple structure is to make it yourself. For this purpose they are used various materials, designs, installation methods.

Don't need a greenhouse? We invite you to read the article -.

Types of greenhouses

Devices for organizing closed ground can differ significantly from each other. This depends on many factors, including the shape of the structure, materials for its manufacture, seasonality of use, the presence of heating and its type.

When using PVC pipes, the following designs are usually suitable:

• wall-mounted - the structure is adjacent to one or two walls of a building, residential or technical;
• a greenhouse with two slopes in the shape of a house;
• polygonal, with a sloping roof;
• arched - with a round dome.

Wall buildings

They are usually installed against a wall on the southwest or south side of the building. In this case, it acts as a kind of accumulator of thermal energy, heating up during the day and releasing it during the cool night time.

This allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations, which has a beneficial effect on plants.

The disadvantage of such greenhouses is the constant action of air on the wall high humidity internal atmosphere, which may contribute to its premature destruction.

This can be avoided by plastering the surface and painting it with waterproof paint. To attach the greenhouse frame to the wall, you can use tubular brackets in the form of a glass.

The internal size of the pipe must correspond to the outer diameter of the plastic pipe of the frame so that it fits freely into it. The connection must be secured with a screw perpendicular to its axis. The metal bracket must be painted to protect it from corrosion.

As a covering for such a greenhouse it is advisable use monolithic polycarbonate. It is transparent, which makes the building an additional decoration of the exterior of the site.

Gable types

This is the most common form for closed ground devices. The popularity is explained by the simple shape of the frame, which can be made by hand using standard PVC pipes and fittings.

This frame is strong, durable and quite resistant to wind and snow. Such frames provide a low reflection coefficient, and this contributes to optimal heating of the PVC greenhouse under the influence of sunlight.

If you install the slope at a sharper angle, you can achieve random removal of snow masses from the roof, which eliminates the need for periodic cleaning in winter.

But this is only possible on a hard surface that does not sag under load. Window glass or cellular polycarbonate has this property.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with doors and vents for ventilation. They release warm, moist air that accumulates under the roof.

If the side walls of such a greenhouse are installed with a slope, the illumination in the morning and evening hours will be higher. This complicates the design somewhat, but in mid-latitudes such a solution will be justified.

Arched structures

Without a doubt, they are the most popular forms of structures for constructing closed ground. The design is durable, good stability and incredibly simple to install. In addition, preparing the site for its installation does not require complex decisions.

Thanks to the use of lightweight PVC pipes, the greenhouse frame is light enough to be moved to another location without disassembly, which improves the ability to optimize crop rotation.

The versatility of the material allows you to choose any size and configuration of the structure.

The arched shape of the greenhouse is demanding regarding its location in space. The building must be oriented its axis from south to north. In this case, in the morning and evening hours there will be maximum amount sunlight.

IN daytime The dome part of the greenhouse is illuminated most strongly, where the refraction of rays is not so significant.

Dome buildings made of PVC pipes

This design can be considered a variant of the arched design. This shape ensures unhindered removal of snow from the blood, which facilitates maintenance in winter.

In addition, this form is better suited for growing tall plants. Ventilation in a dome greenhouse is much more efficient, given the reduced volume of space at the top of the building.

Making a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands is not difficult, since the installation uses proven assembly technologies similar to those for plumbing systems. The same fittings are used.

Site selection and site preparation

The efficiency of its use largely depends on the choice of location of the greenhouse. We have already pointed out the importance of orientation in relation to the cardinal directions. But it is also important that it is in a well-lit place, without being obscured by bushes or trees growing nearby.

In addition, the site on which the structure made of PVC pipes is installed must be on a strictly horizontal platform. The durability of the structure depends on this. If it becomes distorted, conditions are created for the polycarbonate or glass coating to shift, which may be followed by its destruction.

With a greenhouse made of PVC pipes up to 6 meters in length, it can be installed on a base made of wooden beam. It needs to be placed on a level surface in the fall, and in the spring it must be additionally checked for horizontalness and compliance with its shape.

As a rule, this is a rectangle and it is enough to ensure that the diagonals are equal. After performing this operation, the base must be additionally fixed to the ground with anchors.

When installing a wooden base, you need to add a drainage layer under it from sand and gravel mixture 10-15 centimeters thick. This will allow for more active removal excess water from under the greenhouse.

To install a greenhouse made of PVC pipe longer than 6 meters, it is preferable to use capital strip foundation . This is especially important for soils subject to seasonal swelling.

Calculation of the need for materials for a greenhouse made of PVC pipes + drawings

To determine the amount of materials, you need to develop a drawing of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes for making it yourself.

In order not to perform tedious calculations for each part separately, it is better to use graph paper to complete the drawing. This will allow, with a certain scrupulous execution, to obtain the true dimensions through measurements. The accuracy with this method of execution is sufficient to perform the calculation.

It should be taken into account that all molded materials are produced in standard lengths. Therefore, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of their rational cutting in order to avoid unnecessary waste.

Standard sizes of some materials:

1. PVC pipes measuring 20-25 millimeters are produced in lengths of 1, 2, 3 and 6 meters.
2. Coniferous timber - 4 or 6 meters;
3. Cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 4, 6, 8 millimeters is produced in sheets with a width of 2.05 and a length of 4, 6 or 12 meters.
4. Polyethylene film with a thickness of 90-200 microns is sold in rolls, the width ranges from 1 to 3 meters. When installing, welding along the width is allowed. All you need is a household iron and aluminum foil.

The distance between the arcs of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes is selected depending on the coating material. For film it should be 0.7-0.75 meters.

If the coating is made of polycarbonate with the sheets overlapped by 10-12 centimeters, then it is necessary to provide for each sheet a support of at least 3 arches, that is, the distance between them should be: (2.05 - 0.1) : 2 = 0 .97 meters. The number of sheets is determined by the given length of the greenhouse.

The amount of materials for the end walls is calculated separately. The supporting structure is made of a wooden block measuring 50 x 50 millimeters and covered with the main covering material using planks 15-20 millimeters thick.

The design of the end walls should provide doorway about 90 centimeters wide and 1.8-2.0 meters high, so that it is convenient to use a garden wheelbarrow. A window should be provided in the upper part of the end wall.

If polycarbonate is used for the coating, it is fastened in two ways:

1. By applying a screed across the greenhouse body. This part is made of galvanized steel strip with a width of at least 40 millimeters and a thickness of 0.7-1.0. The length of the strips should exceed the outline of the frame by approximately 0.5-0.7 meters, which are needed to form the clamp. Tensioning is done with an M10 pin, the length of which is 20-25 centimeters, using two nuts and washers.
2. Fastening to the arches with cutting screws with special compensating washers with an installation pitch of 250-300 millimeters.

To install doors and windows, you will need 2 canopies for each part. Below are the drawings various options frames with dimensions.

Connecting pipes and fittings when assembling a greenhouse

To assemble the greenhouse they use pressure pipes made of PVC and corresponding fittings - couplings, angles, tees and crosses.

When a set of parts is selected, they need to be checked for compatibility. A normal fitting should be put on the pipe, immersing no less than 2/3 of its length.

Adhesive connection

Adhesive compositions for PVC contain this material as the main component, diluted with a special solvent, which keeps it in a fluid state. Additives are also used as additives various kinds to improve adhesion and give the composition the desired consistency.

After applying the glue to the parts, long chains of PVC molecules are mixed, and as a result of the evaporation of solvents, the mass thickens. The material of both parts is mixed to form a monolithic, durable unit.

When purchasing glue for PVC, you need to carefully read the instructions for use, which contain instructions on how to prepare for gluing and proper implementation process.

At room temperature, the glue sets time is about 4 minutes. At a temperature of 40 degrees it is reduced to one minute.

Detail in life size cut from the pipe with special scissors. They are designed in such a way that they do not leave burrs at the end.

Watch the video

Cutting can be done with any saw with fine teeth (hacksaw), but after this you need to carefully remove burrs, which may adversely affect the alignment of the parts when gluing.

Before gluing the surface, the parts to be joined must be prepared in a special way. the main objective– degreasing. Gluing can be done outdoors, weather permitting. The air temperature should be within 5-35 degrees.

It is important to remember that the brush for applying the adhesive mass must be made of natural bristles, otherwise synthetic material will also be dissolved and this may damage the strength of the connection. Often, adhesive manufacturers include a brush in the package.

The parts are glued in the following order:

1. Test the pipe and fitting for compliance. Mark the boundaries of glue application with a marker.
2. Clean parts from burrs and gross damage.
3. Degrease the surfaces to be bonded.
4. Apply glue with a special brush.
5. Align the parts by sliding the fitting onto the pipe. Rotate the parts at an angle of about 90 degrees and install them in the desired position. This operation should ensure uniform distribution of the glue over the surfaces.
6. The parts must be held firmly for 15-20 seconds.
7. Depending on the ambient temperature, the drying time and final setting of the glue will be up to 4 minutes.
8. Excess adhesive mass from the surface of the parts must be removed with a rag.
9. Glued parts cannot be moved for 15-20 minutes.

Watch the video

When gluing PVC parts, the following defects may occur:

1. Partial non-gluing occurs when the glue is applied unevenly and when there is gross damage on the surface of the parts. This can also be caused by an overdried layer of glue - the time after application until the parts are aligned is no more than 12-15 seconds.
2. When performing work in minimal conditions permissible temperatures can lead to soft non-gluing, which indicates insufficient polymerization of the glue.
3. A porous adhesive layer is formed when the glue is applied unevenly. The reasons for this may include contamination in the gluing area, poor mixing of the adhesive mass before application, and involuntary displacement during drying.

Gluing is the main method of assembly. However, when constructing greenhouse frames, there is no need for tight connections. Therefore, when performing such work, an assembly method using metal fasteners is often used.

Assembling a frame from PVC pipes with screws

The nature of the loading of greenhouse frame elements made of PVC pipes allows its assembly using fasteners. This method even simplifies the assembly process. A sloped surface is not an obstacle to drilling if you use a simple jig.

During installation, drilling may be required at the installation site. With PVC pipes this is not a problem. In the right place, it is enough to leave a deep mark, which is easily made with a sharpened triangular pin made of any metal. In this case, the drill will not slide to the side along the sloping surface.

To assemble the greenhouse, it is enough to use standard M6 bolts with a convenient head shape. To install them you will need holes with a diameter of 6.5 millimeters. Along with the bolt, you will need a corresponding nut, a standard washer and a spring washer - a lock washer. Care must be taken when tightening - PVC pipe does not have high compressive strength.

Watch the video

Do-it-yourself foundation pouring

A supporting base for a greenhouse is also necessary, as for any other structure. Only in this case it works a little differently.

The greenhouse itself, especially one made from lightweight PVC pipes, has low weight and high windage. If it is not properly strengthened, it may well go “for a walk” in neighboring areas.

Watch the video - the advantages of a concrete foundation

How to build a foundation for a greenhouse:

1. A support base made of wooden beams is installed if it is planned to keep the greenhouse in this place for 2-3 years. However, it is possible, without displacing this structure, to simply replace the wooden base.

It uses timber 150x50 or 120x100 millimeters. Before laying it, you need to level the area and remove the turf from the locations of the supporting base.

It is necessary to arrange a drainage layer of a mixture of sand and gravel 120-15 centimeters thick. Lay waterproofing made of roofing felt in one or two layers on top of the drainage.

Lay the timber along the contour of the frame. Check the resulting rectangle for equality of diagonals, secure the sides together. Before laying, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, this will increase its service life.

It should be noted that treatment with antiseptics does not guarantee a long service life of the greenhouse; it will either have to be moved after a few years or the support must be changed.

The base can be secured to the ground different ways. Most often, pieces of reinforcement 80-90 centimeters long, driven into the ground, are used. But screw anchors are more reliable. It's more expensive, but more reliable.

A layer is poured over it concrete mortar, into which the first corner block is installed. It must be carefully aligned to the horizon using a building level. Then pull the cords and lay out the rest of the blocks along the perimeter. The setting time of the masonry mortar is about 7 days, after which you can continue to install the greenhouse frame from PVC pipes with your own hands.

1. A brick foundation on a concrete base is installed if there is loose soil on the site. To install a support for the greenhouse, you need to dig a trench in the ground 40 centimeters deep and 20 wide. Along its bottom you need to make a drainage layer 15-20 centimeters thick. It needs to be compacted and watered for better compaction. Install reinforcement in the amount of two cores 5 centimeters from the bedding, using supports made of broken bricks. It is advisable to install the formwork, leveling its upper edge horizontally.

Concrete pouring should be done in one go, continuously. In this case, you need to install M12 anchor bolts at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from one another.

After the concrete has completely hardened, place brick belt two bricks around the perimeter.

Watch the video

After a week, you can begin installing the greenhouse frame.

Other methods of making a foundation for a greenhouse using other materials are also used. Their choice most often depends on the presence and type of remains from the main construction on the site.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame

Greenhouse kits of various sizes are sold on construction markets. The included instructions provide complete instructions on how to assemble and install them.

But their designs and sizes do not always satisfy the buyer in terms of compliance with the installation location. Then greenhouses from PVC pipes of the required sizes are made by hand.

But the basic assembly and installation techniques do not depend on this, since the components are the same.

Watch the video

The following connecting elements are used during assembly:

1. A glass is a plastic product with an internal diameter corresponding to the outer size of the pipe. Attached to the base with a self-tapping screw through the bottom. The tip of the arch is inserted into the hole and secured with a screw.
2. A tee is a connecting element with three holes. When assembling the arch, perpendicular coaxial holes are used, intended for installing longitudinal ribs during the installation of the frame. Used only for making outer arches.
3. The crosspiece is used for the same purpose when installing intermediate arches, to which longitudinal ribs are connected on both sides.

The mating parts can be fastened with glue or screws. The second method is more often used, since greenhouses are usually installed in early spring, when the outside temperature may not be sufficient for a reliable adhesive connection.

When installing the greenhouse directly on the ground, the arches can be installed on pins.

For the manufacture of pins, reinforcing steel is used, the diameter of which is selected depending on the internal size of the pipes used for the frame. Their length is 0.6-0.8 meters, they are driven into the ground to a depth of about half a meter.

After installing all the arches, wooden box boards are installed around the perimeter of the frame. Their size is 40-50x120-150 millimeters. Fastening is done directly to the arches using a metal strip with self-tapping screws.

Watch the video

Installing the frame on a prepared base is practically no different from the described procedure for greenhouses made of PVC pipes when installed on the ground.

Installation of a door for a greenhouse

A normal greenhouse requires two doors, which are installed on both end walls. Their main purpose is to provide convenient maintenance of the internal space of the structure.

Therefore, the width of the opening must be at least 90 centimeters, which allows the free passage of a garden wheelbarrow. The height should be about 1.8-2.0 meters.

In addition, the passage structure must be sufficiently sealed to ensure the preservation of the microclimate at night.

In addition to the door, the greenhouse is equipped with several windows for ventilation of the room. They are needed to remove warm, moist air that collects in the upper part of the building and is harmful to seedlings and greenhouse plants.

To make the door, a wooden block measuring 50x50 millimeters is used. The rectangular door frame is divided by a cross member. Required element is a jib that gives rigidity to the structure. The joints of the parts are additionally reinforced with corners made of galvanized steel.

The door leaf is made of the same material as the main covering of the greenhouse - film, polycarbonate or window glass.

Watch video - door installation

Installation of the door at the application site is carried out using standard door awnings in the amount of two pieces.

The doorway on the end walls is formed during the manufacturing process of their cladding. For this, wooden blocks are most often used, even if the main frame material is PVC pipe.

Installation of coating - polyethylene film or monolithic polycarbonate

To separate the room from the outside space, it is done in several ways:

• installing a cell phone or monolithic polycarbonate thickness 4 – 8 millimeters;
• covered with polyethylene film 90-200 microns thick.

It should be noted that using film is several times cheaper, but it usually has to be changed annually.

Watch the video

But polycarbonate, if it is of high quality (you need to be wary of Chinese counterfeits), can last up to seven years, after which the material begins to become cloudy due to wear on the outer surface.

Before installing polycarbonate sheets on the upper ends of the arches, you need to install a self-adhesive sealing tape.

The sheet is installed in such a way that the internal cavities are located vertically. In this case, moisture does not accumulate in the voids.

For installation, special fasteners are used, taking into account the properties of the material, for working with which you only need a standard tool.

Watch video - installation and fastening of polycarbonate

A thermal washer and an elastic sealing ring are installed under the screw, and its head is protected by a cap. It should be remembered that this material has an increased coefficient of thermal linear expansion. Therefore, the hole for the screw should be 1.0-1.5 millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw.

The distance between the fastening screws should be no more than 400 millimeters.

Joints and abutments of polycarbonate coverings are made using additional elements.

The procedure for installing polycarbonate is as follows:

1. The end walls of the greenhouse are covered with sheets.
2. The excess parts are cut out along the frame generatrix. To do this, you can use an ordinary construction knife.
3. Openings for doors and windows are cut.
4. The first sheet of polycarbonate is applied and secured. In this case, you need to make an overhang of 8-10 centimeters.
5. Next, the remaining sheets are sequentially applied and fastened.

Installation of the film coating is carried out in the following order:

1. The end walls of the greenhouse are covered with film. In this case, at the edges of the door and window openings, it is fastened with strips of 15-20x40 millimeters and nails 60-70 long.
2. The film is fastened along the frame generatrix with a construction stapler as a temporary measure.
3. The film is installed over the frame after sealing the ends. It is positioned in such a way that there is an overlap on the lower wooden base, to which they are attached with planks. If the greenhouse is installed directly on the ground, the edges must be tucked under the base of the frame and covered with earth.
4. The edges of the film on the end sides are wrapped and secured with strips along with the previously installed film on the end wall.

Pros and cons of PVC

The material has a number of positive qualities, including the following:

1. Quick and easy installation and dismantling of structures.
2. The disassembled structure takes up little space and is light in weight.
3. The construction of a greenhouse from this material does not require any special skills or abilities and can be built with your own hands.
4. Availability and low cost of materials for greenhouse construction.
5. High strength and resistance to external factors.
6. The service life of a PVC frame is estimated at at least 10 years.

Even with great desire Finding obvious flaws in the design of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes is not easy. It is considered dangerous to place them in regions with strong winds.

But this applies equally to any materials. And there is only one solution - installing additional braces and stiffeners. For durability, it is also not recommended to use in such conditions. soft material for covering.

Since the frame of this type of greenhouse is based on plastic pipes, the properties of the entire structure will largely depend on the characteristics of these pipes. The positive aspects include the following:

• expenses for the arrangement of a greenhouse minimal, because the cheapest pipes are suitable for these purposes;
• simplicity of design and low weight allows you to quickly and without special effort install the greenhouse and dismantle it for storage;
• controlling the microclimate in a homemade greenhouse is as easy as in the factory version;
• there is a possibility create greenhouses of any size and optimal configuration;
• The service life of such structures is very long, since the plastic does not corrode, rot, or be destroyed by insects.

At the same time, the light weight of the structure creates some difficulties during operation:

• there is a risk of destruction by wind;
• You cannot use ordinary glass.

ATTENTION! Therefore, even at the design stage, you should choose the most wind-protected locations and abandon heavy covering mats.

rials

For what?

The functionality largely depends on the presence of a heating system. If it is available, then the greenhouse is classified as warm, used for the following purposes:

• storage and protection of heat-loving plants. Before the onset of frost, they are dug out from open ground, transplanted into boxes and placed in a greenhouse;
• spring preparing seedlings almost any type of plant grown in open soil. Restrictions can arise only due to mutual intolerance of individual species;
• germination of cuttings;
• growing early plants from seeds.

IMPORTANT! When selecting a set of plants for planting, you should take into account not only the possibility of growing them together, but also the transmission of characteristic diseases from plants from the previous season through the soil.

A cold greenhouse allows gardeners to perform the following procedures:

• winter storage of plants sensitive to severe frosts;
• forcing bulbs;
• hardening before planting in open ground.

In winter, an unheated greenhouse should still check for soil moisture and temperature level. Moreover, with insufficient effective ventilation putrefactive processes can develop on soil and plants.

Manufacturing technology

Answer to the question: How to make a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands? - not that complicated.
Before you begin directly assembling a homemade greenhouse based on polypropylene pipes, it is worth deciding on the type of covering material. The choice of the optimal pipe diameter will depend on this point.

In gardening, the most commonly used types for indoor beds are:

• agrofibre, which protects well from UV radiation and creates an optimal balance of temperature and humidity;
• cellular polycarbonate, a very warm and durable material, the only drawback of which is the high price;
• PVC film, elastic and durable, but destroyed in severe frost;
• polyethylene film, easy to install, cheap and common material. It is P/E film that is most often used as a covering material for greenhouses. Its only drawback is its low physical strength;
• reinforced film-it can last for several years, but it costs accordingly.

The actual technology for constructing a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands includes several stages, and this can be seen in the photo accompanying the text.

1. Preparation of material

The amount of materials must correspond to the expected size of the building. At the same time, it is not necessary to purchase everything new; the pieces of pipes and boards left after the repair will also work quite well for the frame. In most cases, the following set will be needed:

• boards with a cross section of approximately 20x120 mm, as well as their trimmings to strengthen the corners;
• pieces of metal reinforcement 500-800 mm long;
• self-tapping screws;
• fasteners for plastic pipes (clamps);
• scotch;
• film;
• plastic pipes.

The pipe diameter can be any. However, for structures more than one and a half meters high, it is advisable to take more durable pipes diameter from 20 mm.
2. Arranging the base of the greenhouse

The base will be the general fencing of the beds. It is made from boards fastened with screws into a rectangle.

Since the screws will be screwed in at angles, then get rid of their protruding hats It will be possible if you drill holes for them in advance from the outside of the boards.

IMPORTANT! There are moles and other pests in the soil on the site, so it makes sense to place a fine metal mesh under the greenhouse frame.

3. Along the long sides outside the base of the greenhouse, pieces of reinforcement are stuck into the ground close to the boards at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other. 300-350 mm of rod should remain above the ground. If there are fasteners for pipes (clamps), then at this moment they should be secured on the outer sides of the frame boards at the level of the pins stuck into the ground.

4. The plastic pipe is put on the pin with one hook, bent and put with the other end on the pin from the opposite side.

5. The pipes are fixed into pre-installed clamps. There is also a cheaper option for attaching pipes to the greenhouse base boards. To do this, after installing the pipe frame, it is pulled to the boards by pieces of metal mounting profile.

6. The resulting frame is covered with covering material. The simplest fixative for film can be pieces of boards laid on top of film overlaps on the ground around the perimeter of the structure. Despite the simplicity of this solution, it is quite practical, because allows you to easily open the desired side of the greenhouse for ventilation.

If desired, you can also create a doorway at the end of the greenhouse. The basis for it can be small-section wooden beams installed vertically.

You can see another, but no more complex, option for making a greenhouse with your own hands from plastic pipes in this video:

How to strengthen a greenhouse?

The need to strengthen the greenhouse structure arises before the onset of winter. The snow that settles on the surface of the film will melt and freeze into a very heavy crust. In addition to timely removal of this snow, the following activities can be carried out:

• — installation of supports made of wooden beams inside the greenhouse. Supports can be placed both longitudinally and transversely;
• - replace the covering material with a denser and more durable one;
• — add additional arcs made of plastic pipes to the frame.

In general, a greenhouse made of plastic pipes is a very easy way to expand your agricultural capabilities. At the same time, the simplicity of the design allows you to install and remove such a structure at the first need, without serious physical and material costs.

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