Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on heating system, a heated stove will create in the rooms cozy atmosphere and relieve them of excess moisture. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.
Therefore, a search query about how to fold a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.
In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.
Types of brick kilns
There are several main types of ovens - some of them only do one main task- this is home heating, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions in their “set of capabilities” at once. Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.
- the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.
A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.
If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.
- The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.
A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.
On summer cottage V small house It’s better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.
- The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.
The main function of this stove is cooking The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.
Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.
A lot has been developed various models all listed types of ovens. They can be quite miniature and take up large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.
How to choose the right place to install the stove?
In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.
It is especially important to consider this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the beams ceiling, and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.
A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.
- To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near external wall buildings, since it will quickly cool down and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
- Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides furnace structure may have different decorative finishing, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of the room.
- Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage point
- When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
- To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.
Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.
Tools required for masonry work
To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:
- Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
- A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
- Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
- A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
- A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
- A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
- A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
- A scriber is a rod used for markings.
- A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
- A construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
- Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
- Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
- The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
- A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
- (trowels) different sizes used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
- Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is done “for jointing”, without further cladding.
- Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
- Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
- Sieve with metal mesh for sifting sand.
- A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.
Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove
The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.
If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.
If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.
The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
- If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
- Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
- The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic film or roofing felt.
- Then, a sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and compacted well using a hand tamper.
- The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
- Next, along the perimeter of the pit is installed wooden formwork in the form of a box. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
- The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
- Some craftsmen, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm in order to save bricks. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
- The next step is to install a reinforcing grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
- Next, into the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
- If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
- The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.
- The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
- Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
- Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.
- To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do waterproofing material markings, indicating the location of the oven base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.
After these preparatory work, you can move on to masonry.
Dry masonry
Even experienced craftsmen When starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, they first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.
When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.
As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.
It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.
When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, as it may form reverse thrust, and smoke will come out of the room when kindling.
Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but this time on the solution.
When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.
After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.
Processing seams for jointing If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then inside the walls will also have indentations between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.
It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.
Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.
These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.
Schemes for the construction of brick kilns
Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber
The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.
Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of 17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.
Dimensions of this heating structure, excluding height chimney, are 750×630×2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.
To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:
| Name of materials and elements | Quantity (pcs.) | Element dimensions (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying) | 281÷285 | 250×120×65 |
| Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Ш-8 | 82÷85 | 250×120×65 |
| Fire door | 1 | 210×250 |
| Doors for cleaning channels | 2 | 140×140 |
| Blower door | 1 | 140×250 |
| Summer damper for chimney | 1 | 130×130 |
| Fire valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| Stove valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| grate | 1 | 200×300 |
| Single burner hob | 1 | 410×340 |
| Steel strip | 1 | 40×260×5 |
| 1 | 40×350×5 | |
| 1 | 40×360×5 | |
| Steel corner | 1 | 40×40×635 |
| 3 | 40×40×510 | |
| 4 | 40×40×350 | |
| Roofing iron | 1 | 380×310 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 1 | 500×700 |
To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.
In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.
This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.
| Illustration (order) | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since it will correct masonry the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend. A row consists of 15 bricks. |
 | Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks. |
 | To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks. |
 | The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks. |
 | Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks. |
 | The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut-out is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks. |
 | After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand. |
 | Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks. |
 | Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the firebox door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot. |
 | The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined. |
 | When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row. |
 | On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is intended for laying the hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner. |
 | From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks. |
 | 14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber. |
 | On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid. |
 | 19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but above it a steam exhaust hole is formed into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar. |
 | The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks. |
 | On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner interior brick cut to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks. |
 | Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows. |
 | The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob. |
 | On the 22nd row, the brickwork is covered with a metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then with outside oven, a metal corner is installed that will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks. |
 | 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used. |
 | On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed. |
 | 25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. Second brick back wall The drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first one, on the side. |
 | 26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks. |
 | On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks. |
 | On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber. |
 | On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks. |
 | The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick. |
 | On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form. |
If you decide to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering diagram, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.
And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.
Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Main types of furnaces
Before you start self-masonry ovens, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:
- heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have an extremely simple design and can be installed in the shortest possible time and with with the least effort compared to designs of other types;
- heating and cooking. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;
There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is an excellent option for a modern private home. Such designs do an excellent job of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of a small country house, and an expensive private villa.
Scheme modern stoves They are distinguished not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.
Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove
Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), the floor will constantly “walk” cold air. Therefore, you need to make your own decision in this regard.
Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.
The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.
Furnace design features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking ovens additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the stove unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. When determining suitable dimensions, several important factors need to be taken into account, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.
At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
An important element in the design of a brick kiln is the ash chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.
What mortar should I use for masonry?
Reliability and durability directly depend on the quality of the masonry mortar finished oven. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.
There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.
Main stages and important features of furnace laying
From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for work in advance and highlight sufficient quantity time to complete it.
The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.
Third stage. Install a grate over the ash pan chamber.
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.
Fifth stage. Carry on standard masonry until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.
Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.
Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in inner corner cooking compartments.
Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleanout doors for convenient removal soot For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.
Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
At the end, all you have to do is lay out the entire chimney and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And stove designs that have been tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will efficiently heat your home for many years without any problems or complaints.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams
This article is clear, very detailed photo instructions laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.
Options for installing a stove in the house
The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in the house small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.
Brick kiln placement options
The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.
The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.
Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.
Selection of bricks, sand, mortar
In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:
- Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
- Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
- Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.
Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.
The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, a special one is required fireclay clay. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.
From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.
Preparation, list of tools
Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.
The chimney pipe must be located from rafters roofs no closer than 15 cm.
If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks at real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.
The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of the stove.
When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.
To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:
- plumb line;
- trowel;
- roulette;
- putty knife;
- Bulgarian;
- knitting wire;
- building level;
- metal strips, corners;
- containers for cement and clay mortar.
Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove
Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.
Foundation laying
The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.
When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.
The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.
Construction of the furnace body
The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.
A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.
An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.
Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.
The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.
The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.
The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.
The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.
The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.
The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.
The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.
The next brick row is laid.
A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.
The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.
Firebox new stove ready with fireplace.
Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.
The stove body is built.
Creating a chimney
The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.
Brick chimney wells are laid.
Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.
The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.
After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.
The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.
The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.
There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.
Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.
A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.
Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.
If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.
Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.
Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to provide heating at home, in a country house or in a cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency value reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include “heat consumers”, which take up a lot of thermal energy.
- Brick stoves for home
Brick heating stoves are quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is the narrow scope of application - for heating rooms (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).
Brick stoves for the home are also sometimes called “Dutch stoves”.
Brick stoves for home
In houses and dachas, the most often used are “Dutch” ones, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves one to two times a day, you can easily ensure comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.
Taking into account the dimensions of heating stoves, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:
- in small Dutch ovens, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the bell-type smoke channels are located at the top;
- for furnaces big size A combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the smoke channels are located on the sides of the firebox and on top of it.
Dutch oven for corner type home
Another type of heating stoves is “Dutch” corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these ovens are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which allows you to significantly increase usable area premises by installing the stove in a corner.
Corner brick kilns are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To warm 2 storey house or cottage, use two-tier brick heating stoves. An autonomous stove with its own firebox is installed on each floor.
Modern heating stoves include a grate. With this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place where wood is burned, in the volumes necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that fuel combustion occurs at an intensive rate and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems make it possible to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove flue circuit before being cooled by excess air.
The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on combustion, and also improve efficiency.
A diagram for laying a stove for a home is the first thing that a person who decides to install heating in his home using a stove will need. In this material we will look at what masonry schemes for home brick kilns exist, what are their features and differences.
Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:
- 1. undercut;
- 2. with empty seams;
When arranging a stove using the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all seams are filled with mortar. The thickness of the kiln walls determines the way in which the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick and half a brick. Sometimes you can find a masonry of 3.4 bricks.
For work on the installation of a stove, it is imperative to use stove bricks. It is also called “red brick”, solid. Under no circumstances should you use bricks that have been taken from a dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.
The first row is laid simply with bricks, without using mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall and the places where all the doors will be located are determined. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are completed, the bricks are laid with mortar.
After this, they begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, string is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate while working.
Considering the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which the following will be located: the ash pan, the combustion chamber, and the ash pan. The door under the ash pit is installed when the third row of bricks is laid, and after one row the ash pit is laid out.
After this, the firebox is arranged. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure good joining of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.
To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Because the facing brick and masonry bricks have different temperature characteristics, then the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be done rigidly. When installing a chimney pipe, care should be taken to install a special valve, the adjustment of which should be smooth and easy.
Brick stoves for the home - video instructions
No one a private house cannot do without a traditional heating and cooking stove made of brick. And although many homes today are equipped gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up a brick stove, since it provides special warmth - the warmth of a home, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests you can significantly save on costs. natural gas, having acquired firewood.
The desire to remodel a house, including moving a heating and cooking stove, can often come down to the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to build a stove with your own hands in this material.
There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.
Types of stoves for private homes:
- Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
- Cooking(oven exclusively for cooking);
- Universal(heating and cooking).
The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.
Furnace structure and its properties
After looking at sketches and designs of brick stoves and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to the internal structure. The design of a heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.
The internal design of a heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in a corner or against a wall.
Basic structural elements heating and cooking furnace:
- Shantsy (heat-air channels);
- Ash pan (or ashpit);
- Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
- Under (slope to the grate);
- Combustion chamber;
- Burnout (smoke exhaust);
- The furnace vault (separates the combustion zone from the post-burning zone in the combustion chamber);
- Vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
- Exterior wall;
- Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber to the chimney);
- Overlap;
- Chimney;
- Indentation (the space between the chimney and the stove);
- Smoke valves;
- Heat-dissipating walls.
The heat output of a stove is determined by the amount of thermal energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of the walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.
The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.
Russian stove and its structure
A Russian brick stove is installed on a foundation, since its structure is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a podpechok, used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is lit. The bakehouse is closed with a vault-trough, onto which a bedding in a clay solution is poured. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.
The Russian stove has a special design that differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short period, a Russian stove accumulates heat and is capable of releasing it for 24 hours.
To ensure that the Russian stove does not consume excessive amounts of fuel, does not smoke and does not cool down in a matter of hours, when constructing it, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions included in the diagram. The bricks that form the interior of the furnace are hewn and polished so that the walls inside the heil are even and smooth.
Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (furnace). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.
The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes need to simmer in the cooking chamber for a long time after cooking. Achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing Russian cuisine using the usual hob or an electric oven is not possible.
The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which is superior in its efficiency to the smoke channel devices of other stoves.
Making a Russian stove with your own hands (video)
Design selection
The choice of furnace type depends on its operating conditions:
- Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the construction of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first heated, then heat transfer begins.
- Heating stove. For a house in the mountains or a summer house, where permanent residence not planned, a fireplace will suffice. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up during the cold season.
A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. Most lightweight design assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on its edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners. A massive furnace requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also requires its own foundation.
Deciding on size and power
The heat transfer level of the heating and cooking furnace must exactly meet the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.
The size and design of the future furnace is determined by its power.
Furnace structure. Where to begin?
The laying of any stove cannot be started without a design or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the exit of the chimney without disturbing load-bearing elements buildings. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The diagram or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.
It is quite difficult to independently create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.
Tools and materials
When the furnace design is approved, you can prepare for its laying.
To fold the stove with your own hands, you need to have on hand:
- Stovemaker's hammer (trowel);
- Master OK;
- Construction level and plumb lines;
- Measuring tape;
- Cement-sand mortar;
- Hand-held power tools (hammer, grinder, etc.);
- Red brick;
- Fireproof brick (burnt);
- Facing brick;
- Mortar for masonry made of clay and sand;
- Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
- Stove fittings and appliances.
Laying a stove with your own hands. All stages
Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.
Scheme this process includes the following items:
- Construction of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a broken brick. A foundation is not used for all stove structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive stove, you cannot do without its construction.
In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and if they are misaligned, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.
The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed dimensions oven at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with baked brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the design of the entire furnace will depend on it. Next comes a layer of waterproofing, for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing felt; the material is laid in two layers.
- Furnace laying. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork From each row you should start without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next to the place corner brick the mortar is laid and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
