How to make a simple door with your own hands. How to make a door with your own hands: making and installing interior fabric and wooden frames. For insulation you will need

Natural beauty wood and unusual texture provide it wide application in the manufacture of doors. Finished wood structures are sold by many manufacturers. It is useful to know how to make a wooden door with your own hands from boards. Such a design must be strong, able to last a long time, but at the same time original and beautiful.

The choice of wood species determines the quality of the future structure. Depending on the purpose of the door, deciduous and coniferous wood is used. Wood is distinguished by its beauty, resistance to mechanical damage, good sound insulation and noise absorption. Wood can be soft or hard.

Soft wood is easier to process, but has low strength and a short service life. It is rational to make interior doors and structures for outbuildings from such wood.

Working with hardwood lumber is more difficult. The structures made from them are strong and will last a long time. They are used for indoor options and as entrance doors.

Hardwood

Hardwoods are used for making door systems Often.

Birch. Cheap material, has low strength and density. Birch is easy to polish and paint.
Oak. It has a beautiful texture that becomes darker over time. The material is dense, durable and hard, so it is difficult to process. Oak structures have heavy weight, you need to select reliable hinges for them.
Beech. In many ways it resembles oak, but it is easier to process. Impregnations and paints and varnishes work well on beech wood. The disadvantage is the possibility of deformation after the boards have completely dried.
Ash. It has a beautiful texture, is resistant to rotting, and durable.

They also use alder, walnut, and maple. Entrance structures are often made of oak or beech.

Conifers

Coniferous wood contains many resinous substances, which makes it resistant to moisture. Pine wood is soft and can be processed well. A large number of resins interfere with high-quality treatment with impregnations. Larch is a very moisture-resistant material, but over time it gains greater strength.

Wood selection rules

For interior doors, lumber from soft types of wood can be used.
For structures that are used outside, it is worth choosing hardwood.
House doors are made from new, high-quality boards. Old materials are only suitable for commercial buildings. Low-grade wood can also be used here.

Choose smooth beams and boards with a minimum of knots.

Types of wood doors by design

Wooden structures are made in several versions:

Swing. Consist of one or two canvases. Sometimes one-and-a-half versions are made, in which part of the canvas opens only when moving large objects.
Sliding. They are convenient because they save space in rooms. Such wooden structures used as interior or for wardrobes. They are well suited for large opening widths.
Folding wooden options are also used for interior spaces. For manufacturing it is worth choosing lightweight materials.

Wooden doors are made in a solid version or with glazing. The structures are made of solid wood or on a frame. The standard shape of the opening is rectangular, but designer models can be made as arched ones.

Required tools and materials

To begin work, purchase the necessary consumables and equipment. The specific list is determined by what kind of design you will make.

Materials

You can make a structure yourself only if you have the right material:

Dry lumber - boards and beams. The thickness of the boards for interior doors is at least 2.5 cm, for entrance doors - 5.0 cm.
Accessories - awnings, handles. An additional lock is purchased for entrance structures.
Wood glue.
Nails or screws.

It is better to choose lumber that has been technically dried, smooth, without knots or defects.

To finish the door, depending on its type, you may need the following materials and devices:

primer;
paint, stain or varnish;
sanding paper of various grain sizes.

In addition to materials, you need to stock up on the appropriate tools.

Tools

Many tools are available in any home, but there are some things you will need to purchase in advance:

hand or electric saw;
hand router - for figure processing boards, making grooves and locking connections;
drill;
screwdriver;
roulette;
plane;
square;
grinding machine;
level;
chisel;
hammer;
brush or spray gun.

When all materials and tools have been purchased, you can begin direct work on the structure.

How to make a wooden door: step-by-step instructions

The following types of doors are suitable for a home or outbuildings:

keyed;
paneled;
panel

Each of these structures can be made independently, but the process has its own nuances. How to make wooden doors with your own hands from boards step by step - let's take a closer look.

Keyed

Keyed structures belong to the category of the simplest ones for self-made. They are installed, as a rule, in technical or utility rooms, for example, a bathhouse, a barn, a toilet. To understand how to make a keyed door from boards with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of.

Essential elements:

boards;
dowels for fastening boards;
brace

The boards are connected to each other tightly or with a gap. The second option allows you to ventilate the room where they are installed. The dowels in the form of a bar are simply stuffed onto the canvas.

Inserting parts into boards will become more reliable. Instructions for performing the work:

The prepared boards are laid on a flat surface.
The canvas is leveled and fastened.
The location of the keys is marked on the boards.
At an angle of 45 degrees in the elements, wood is sampled to ¼ or ½ thickness.
The made recess is leveled with a chisel to the size of the key.
The key is inserted into the groove and driven across the entire width of the blade.
The edges of the strut are sawed off at an angle of about 60 degrees.
The block is secured to the canvas between the dowels.

Tip: The edges of the fasteners are filed down to a cone. This will allow the structure to be fully opened.

Keyed doors made of boards, finished in an antique style, are used as interior doors in many ethnic styles.

Panel

If you want to avoid costs, you should know how to make an entrance panel door from boards with your own hands. This variety is one of the most accessible. A design made from a frame and various cladding will hide defects in lumber - it is quite easy to do.

The main points here will be: strict adherence to dimensions, correct connection of the frame components. For their manufacture, timber or boards are used. The type of wood does not play a special role - the frame practically does not interact with environment, since after assembly it is sheathed with other materials. In addition, glued parts can be used instead of solid elements.

Instructions:

Two beams are cut to the height of the door frame with a gap of 5 mm.
Two more parts are made along the width of the frame with the same gap.
All elements are fixed at an angle of 90 degrees.

The parts can be connected using the tongue-and-groove method or in an overlay. For more reliable fastening, the fixation points should be coated with wood glue. The bars are attached to nails or screws.

The cladding is made from:

boards;
plywood;
linings;
laminate;
plastic.

Help: The cladding can be simple or with a certain decor. The board is finished with veneer or various types of film.

To improve the parameters, heat-insulating and noise-absorbing material is laid between the casing:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene.

If the structure is an entrance, it is worth installing an additional cross beam at the location where the lock is installed.

Paneled

A panel is an insert into the fabric binding, which is made from:

boards;
plywood.

The insert can also be made of glass, finished with veneer or plastic. The texture is made smooth or profiled.

Types of panels:

flat - installed in the middle of the frame beams, used when installing interior doors;
overhead - fixed on the sides of the timber; for entrance doors, insulation is laid between the panels;
with applied moldings (curly profiles);
with figured planed edges (figares).

Making paneled doors yourself is a complex process. It requires professional skills, as well as tools and equipment. But a paneled structure is lighter than a massive one, so this option is often chosen for interior doors. In addition, you can save on materials, since fewer are required for panels.

Simple design made from two vertical bars or thick boards and several transverse crossbars, which are connected using a tongue-and-groove method. The frame is strengthened with dowels or furniture confirmats. Horizontal bars give the structure rigidity.

The openings that are formed by the frame parts are filled with inserts. They are fixed in the internal grooves of the timber or fixed with a glazing bead. For glass elements, an internal sheathing is made, which is attached to the main frame.

To install the fittings, you need to make a hole in the timber or board. Secure locks and handles using self-tapping screws.

Any wood products require finishing. This will improve their appearance and protect them from negative influences. Interior options can be finished using stain, tinting impregnation or varnish.

Entrance structures require a more careful approach. The wood should be well soaked with antiseptic agents. This will extend the service life and prevent rotting. If possible, wood is treated with fire retardants. Paint and varnish materials for entrance options are selected taking into account outdoor use.

Low quality wood can be finished with veneer. You can do this yourself using glue. This method of finishing will allow you to significantly save money, but the appearance of the structure will be very attractive.

Making plank doors yourself is not too difficult. The main thing is to choose the type of construction and materials, and strictly follow the instructions.

Strength of character lies not in the ability to break through walls, but in the ability to find doors. And even better, not only be able to find them, but also be able to create these doors. This article will talk about how to realize your power in everyday life and how to make a door with your own hands.

How to prepare

It would seem that the modern market is so wide that you can find a door of any shape, size and quality. But this is not always the case. Especially when it comes to something exclusive, a special type of wood, spectacular stained glass, or an extraordinary form. Buying a standard factory design is boring and mediocre. And making a door with your own hands is not a difficult task at all, especially if you have a suitable canvas, a pair of skillful hands and a little time.

However, in order to make a beautiful and high-quality door yourself, you need to first study the subtleties and nuances of the material, evaluate the complexity of the technology and calculations, and identify the pitfalls when installing it.

First you need to prepare all the materials and tools that you will need for the job. After all, the final result is influenced not only by the quality of the raw materials themselves, but also by the quality and reliability auxiliary tools and materials that were used in assembling and installing the door. And for this you will need:

milling machine with manual mechanism. It is used to process a wooden product, give it a shape, and grind the groove elements;
circular saw with manual mechanism;
Bulgarian. In this case it will be used to sand wood;
screwdriver for door installation;
building level and tape measure;
hammer;
pencil or marker.

Regardless of what type of product needs to be made, be it interior doors, entrance doors, or doors for a country shed, the same technology is used for all. Therefore, after studying this article, you can easily make homemade doors for any needs. In addition to the tools, you will also need the material itself. Typically, an array is selected from different breeds wood: oak, ash, birch, larch, pine.

Some prefer exotic species: mahogany, wenge, beech. The choice depends on personal preferences, the type of room and the overall concept of the interior.

When making a structure with your own hands, you need to take into account that the wooden canvas will require pre-treatment, especially for hard wood. When choosing a wooden panel, you need to focus on ensuring that the wood is even and smooth. There should be no cracks or holes from knots. The selected board is first dried in a well-ventilated area at a temperature of about 25 ° C.

You can dry it outside, but only in dry weather, preferably in the summer. middle zone Russia. Depending on the type of wood and its initial condition, drying the canvas can take up to ten days.

Popular models

Before you start making doors, you need to think about what type they will be (hinged or sliding), decide on the shape and design. The most important characteristics of all doors are functionality and appearance, because they will become an integral element of the interior.

Let us characterize the main models:

Very popular today sliding doors. A door of the “compartment” type can be either single-leaf or with two leaves. Sliding doors on rollers - an alternative usual options with swing doors, especially if the issue of saving space is acute. There are two types of sliding doors: with bottom tracks and with top tracks. So, using mechanical system with lower guides, the door “walks” on built-in rollers, reducing the load on the walls.

This sliding door fastening system is beneficial for thin partitions in apartments.

Among compartment doors designs with a hinged mechanism are especially popular. Hinged sliding doors are usually made of glass, due to its lighter weight compared to solid wooden counterparts. In addition to the fact that this type of door also takes up little space in the apartment, another advantage is that its glass surface perfectly transmits light into the room. This option is very appropriate if you plan major renovation“Khrushchev” in order to free the already small area of the apartment from unnecessary structures.

Book door, like a sliding door, helps to preserve useful space in the apartment. Its folding design consists of two separate panels, interconnected so that when opened, one part fits onto another of the same kind, without cluttering the interior. They are often placed in dressing rooms and in bedroom bathrooms.

Accordion door- another option for small apartments. Compared to swing doors, such doors can save up to two meters of space. This type of product can be used in any interior. The design of accordion doors is varied. There are even interesting options with intricate stained glass windows.

Everyone knows paneled doors remain popular to this day due to their aesthetic characteristics. The design of a paneled door differs from a regular one in that additional thinner panels are inserted inside the door frame. Thus, even the most boring door can be made very original using inserts with textured patterns or carvings. The area of use of these doors is not only office rooms, but also residential buildings and apartments.

Manufacturing

Standard hinged door consists of several parts:

door frame;
door leaves;
fasteners;
castle;
frames in the form of platbands.

If the fabric of the product is not a monolithic solid board, but has several components, it is necessary to clarify what they will be made of and what their functional purpose is. The frame of the structure is the frame. It determines the main dimensions of the product, gives it rigidity and shape. The outer visible part of the canvas is represented by the covering. In this capacity they can serve not only wooden panels, but also plastic profiles or stained glass windows.

If the task is to make an entrance door, then you need to take care of the insulation, which is placed inside, under the casing.

This article will provide information on how to independently make a door of the simplest design with a hinged fastening mechanism, without insulation and complex cladding options such as glass decorative elements and carved panels.

Measurements

Seven times measure cut once. This proverb will be more relevant than ever when making a door yourself. Indeed, the final result will depend on how correctly the measurements are taken. And there is no need to figure out which parts need to be measured. All the main parameters have long been known; you just need to write them down on a piece of paper and measure them using a regular construction tape.

It is imperative to measure:

door width (distance from the left to the right edge of the door);
door height (distance from floor to top point);
width of the doorway;
thickness of the doorway;
opening slope (if there are distortions);
evenness (identify elements whose size differs from the main one).

When determining the width of the product, it is recommended to measure the distance between the side parts of the opening near the floor, in the center of the opening and at the upper border of the opening and find the average value. If necessary, if these values differ, the opening can be trimmed.

For an interior door, the width is usually 80-90 cm, for an entrance door - 90-120 cm. The height of the door is determined by the height of the opening and is approximately 200-210 cm. Measurements are taken with the same tape measure from the floor to the top point of the doorway.

You should take into account the fact if the apartment does not yet have flooring, then the measured height will not be entirely accurate, so First, it is recommended to finish the floor work so that all parameters of the future door are taken into account correctly. When determining the height of the door, measurements are also taken at three points (far left, center and far right).

The thickness of the doorway is measured similar to the width of the door. You just need to take into account that the width of the frame will be slightly larger, since it is necessary to leave a distance between the door and the frame for the door to move freely. And yet, when forming the box, you should remember that its width should be several centimeters less than the measured width of the opening, since during installation it is necessary to leave technological voids.

The thickness of the doorway is measured at six points (thickness at the bottom, middle, top for the left edge and the same positions for the right edge). This parameter will depend on the thickness of the wall into which the door will be mounted. For the entrance it is usually larger than for the interior, but there are exceptions. Here you should also pay attention to the presence of non-standard dimensions of the opening thickness. In this case, it is necessary to provide extras that will compensate for this moment.

In order to simplify the installation of the structure, it is necessary to first determine the evenness of the opening. By using building level check the vertical of the opening (at three points) and the diagonal. Using a tape measure, measure the distance inside the opening diagonally, from the top corner to the bottom, for each side. Both values should be approximately equal. In case of strong deviations, not only the appearance of the structure will deteriorate, but the reliability of the fastening system will also be called into question.

After the basic parameters have been measured, they move on to correcting unevenness and distortions. To do this, these places are plastered or the excess is cut off using a grinder. An ideal option would be to level the opening using plasterboard sheets.

Eliminating deficiencies identified during the measurement of product dimensions will certainly have a positive impact on further work and eliminate many unpleasant moments during installation.

Materials

The modern market is oversaturated with various door options made from a variety of materials. However, wood remains traditional. Due to its high quality indicators, as well as the property of being perfectly combined with wooden furniture And parquet board, wooden doors have become more in demand, especially in the interiors of apartments and country houses.

In addition to their aesthetic characteristics, wooden products have a number of other advantages: strength of the material, ease of processing of the material, ability to retain heat, good sound insulation, as well as environmental friendliness.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that if the choice fell on a wooden door, then all other parts should also be made of wood (frame, trim, extensions).

The disadvantages of wood include easy flammability, the ability to absorb moisture and expand, and, of course, high cost.

The most popular, but not the easiest to manufacture, are paneled doors. It is better to use ready-made cutters as internal inserts, since cutting them yourself is labor-intensive work. On construction market You can purchase a set of routers for a future door. To save on material, The door leaf can be made from boards, instead of a wide monolithic leaf.

If you need to make a door to a country shed or a bathhouse, you can use even cheaper materials. Not a bad alternative solid wood the door will be made of plywood. This is a fairly durable material; during its manufacture, sheets of peeled veneer are glued together so that the fibers of one sheet are perpendicular to the fibers of the other. The outer layers of plywood are covered with veneer made from aspen, pine or larch (these types of veneer have good strength and aesthetic appearance).

Products made from lining - also inexpensive option. The advantage of this material is that in order to make a door, it is not necessary to use factory lining; you can make separate profiles from scrap materials.

In addition to natural materials, synthetic polycarbonates are widely used. It is advantageous to choose this material for making a door when it is expected that the structure will be affected by adverse weather conditions (humidity, temperature). But if earlier polycarbonate was used for the manufacture of greenhouses, now it is easily used for entrance doors, the main thing is to provide solid foundation and insulation.

If desired, you can build a structure from other polymers. Often they make an aluminum frame with plexiglass inserts. It looks quite stylish, but these materials are quite expensive.

How to make a door frame?

Before you start assembling the door frame, you need to study its structure. So, the door frame consists of four main parts: two pillars (its longest parts), a threshold and a top crossbar (short parts). First, measure the length of the racks. In the case of using a threshold, it is equal to the length of the door plus 2-3 centimeters for the gap on each side. If there is no threshold, then instead of a gap at the bottom, add 15-20 centimeters. This will ensure the door moves freely from the floor.

The measured values are drawn on the canvas and each stand is cut out with a special knife.

The crossbar and threshold are identical components. Their length consists of the width of the door, the same two gaps and the thickness of the frame. The measured dimensions are transferred to a wooden canvas and one or two elements are cut out, depending on the need for the threshold. Grooves are cut out in the top crossbar of the box, marking the lines where the posts intersect with the top crossbar, and these areas are carefully cut out with a jigsaw on each side.

Once all the grooves have been cut, the posts and crossbar are aligned on the floor to ensure they fit together. After this, the cut parts are thoroughly sanded with sandpaper, eliminating all irregularities and rough roughness. When all the elements of the box are ready, you can start assembling.

In order to assemble the structure, you will need a drill or screwdriver. A 2-3 millimeter drill is inserted into the screwdriver and holes are drilled in the aligned corners of the future box. These holes will keep the material intact when screwing screws into them. Use a Phillips drill to drive screws into each hole. The door frame is almost ready.

To make sure that the frame is made correctly, you need to place it on the floor and put the selected door leaf inside, assessing the presence of gaps between them. It is worth noting that if the task is to make a sliding structure yourself, then you need to take into account its distinctive mechanism. When opened, such a door will move to the side, like a pencil case (to drive into the wall or lie on it), therefore, when forming the box, you should provide a groove for the door in one of the racks.

How to make the door itself: step-by-step instructions

Now let's look at how to make the door itself. For outbuildings, the door will be a simple shield made of separate boards fastened together with wooden straps. Interior wooden doors should have more aesthetic appearance, simple harnesses not applicable here.

The work should be carried out on a carpentry stand or on a table that will allow the product to be completely placed on it.

To form the door leaf, tongue and groove boards with grooves are used (you can also cut the grooves yourself). The thickness of the boards should be from 2.5 to 4 centimeters, depending on whether it will be an interior door or an entrance door. The prepared boards are placed in a shield. If tongue and groove boards are taken, then the grooves on the outer boards are removed using a circular saw.

The boards are glued together with wood glue, and the pattern of the annual rings must be observed (they must lie in the same direction so that the finished product does not show an imbalance). The door blank is placed in a vice to align the elements more tightly, and the glue is allowed to dry. After which the entire surface of the blade is passed through a milling machine, Special attention pay attention to joints and uneven fragments.

If the thickness of the boards is not sufficient to use the door as an entrance, then you can glue the boards in two layers. Such a door will be quite massive and heavy.

Next we move on to designing the finished shield. Using a stencil, transfer the design onto a wooden canvas, first with a pencil. Using a router with a manual mechanism, the design is carefully cut out, changing cutters. The finished drawing and the canvas itself should be treated with sandpaper, then blotted with a special antiseptic solution. If the door is an entrance door, then it must be treated with moisture-resistant agents and flame retardants. This way it will last much longer.

How to insert?

The places where the hinges will be located are marked on the door frame. Marks are also made on the door leaf in appropriate places. To do this, place it in a vertical position, with the top facing the side where the hinges are attached. WITH reverse side mark the location of the castle. First, the door is placed in the frame, the markings are checked, the location of the lock tongue on the frame is marked, then the hinges are inserted, then they are applied to the door and to the frame, and drilled with a drill. The tongue is carefully cut out with a jigsaw.

To install correctly door lock, it is first applied to the installation site on the product, circled, and all necessary technological holes are marked with dots. After the installation depth of the lock has been determined, it is placed in the marked place and screwed. Now that all the parts are ready, you need to install them correctly.

First we insert the door frame into the opening. We level it and secure it with wedges. You can adjust a box already mounted in the wall by hitting the wedges with a hammer. Then dowels and screws are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall and frame. And lastly, the most important thing is the assembly of the door and frame.

It is better to perform this operation together in order to avoid injuries, since the door leaf is a heavy structure. Holding the door suspended, we secure the hinges with self-tapping screws.

After the assembly of the main parts is completed, you can move on to the platbands. It’s easier to buy ready-made ones in a store or make them yourself using wooden blanks 1-1.5 cm thick and a simple jigsaw. Each edge of the casing is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and adjusted to length. Finished products are secured at the level of the box using wood glue or small nails.

In general, the work of installing a door, with a competent approach and quality materials, will take no more than two days. And the recommendations described above can be used to make doors from other materials, changing only some tools.

Finishing

Finishing will help give the finished product a finished look. You can also do it yourself; this is a more pleasant and less complicated job than installing and assembling the door itself. Door finishing can be done as follows:

painting the door;
varnish coating;
wallpapering or decorative film;
decoupage;
insertion of mirrors and colored glass;
fabric lining;
application of techniques for aging wood.

Making paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But simpler doors can easily be made with your own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and saw in his hands. It’s unlikely that a work of art will work out, but a good product will.

Even the simplest wooden doors look very good

General principles

When making doors yourself, the first thing you do is measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it has the shape of the letter “P”: two vertical posts are installed and one horizontal one is installed at the top - the lintel or crossbar.

The plank, which is attached below, is rarely used today, but there are rooms special purpose, in which the threshold is required. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here to prevent steam from escaping.

Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the frame you made. After you make the door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors made of wood are heavy, and it is very difficult to carry them and try on the hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the fastenings for the hinges, make a recess to the required depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.

Schematically, the door installation technology looks exactly like this

Then you install the box in the opening, secure it, and only then hang the doors. Here's a general outline of how the process works. Now let’s learn more about how to make doors with your own hands.

Making a door frame

According to the rules, the door frame pillars must be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today, wooden floors are not made everywhere in our country, and therefore more often they are simply rested on the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the baseboards have not been nailed down.

We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: “U”-shaped or with a lower jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurement results on the image.

When installing the door frame and hanging the door leaf, it is important to align everything evenly: both the posts and the leaf

For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, they generally make a frame or casing - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams that have become loose after cutting out the opening. This, of course, requires additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.

As a result of measurements, the height of the two side bars - racks - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and the horizontal top bar - the lintel - is strictly horizontal.

The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one - from several boards glued together. The width of the groove should match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.

To make the box, use planks with a solid or prefabricated protrusion against which the doors will rest.

If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, you do everything yourself. No - buy from carpentry shop, V hardware store etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for the horizontal jumpers.

The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. You can install a rubber or silicone seal at the end of the protrusion against which the door leaf rests. To do this, make a shallow cut into it using a special roller (or a regular screwdriver) and install an elastic band. These seals are much more effective and durable than foam rubber ones, they come in different colors and shapes, and are sold in hardware stores.

The planks are polished on three sides to perfection. The fourth will be leaning against the wall; it does not need to be processed.

The shape of the door frame slats may vary

Assembly order

At the first stage of assembling the door frame, you need to work with a saw and chisels

Saw off the top jumper to the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it into which the racks will fit. To do this, you need to remove the protrusion to the width of the block. It sounds confusing, but if you look at the photo, everything will become clearer.

Measure the width of the counter, mark this distance on the ceiling, and draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the tenon (with a hand saw). Now use chisels to remove excess. Having smoothed it with sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the posts.

Do the same on the other side. Just don’t start sawing without measuring the second post: the joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this can lead to the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then you mark, and only then you cut and work with a chisel.

If the structure has a threshold, it is processed in exactly the same way.

Now all that remains is to adjust the height of the side strips. From the total height of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper and, if any, lower) and the distance for the mounting foam (1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. You saw them off and assemble the whole structure together. The door frame was assembled with your own hands. Let's start making the door leaf.

The procedure for making the lintel of a door frame

Wooden doors to a bathhouse or country house

Doors made of wood can have a complex design. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Doors to a bathhouse, a summer house, etc. are ideal in this regard. They rarely come in complex designs. The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is also important, but even simple DIY steam room doors are a result you can be proud of. If they are well processed, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decorations. It is important to properly process and varnish.

Good commercial wood is used for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum number of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally, take chamber-drying boards - they will definitely not be damaged. Also look at their geometry: “propellers” and “waves” do not suit us. The boards must be level.

You can buy sanded boards with a molded tongue and groove - there will be less work

Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly smooth state - with grinding machines or manually using sandpaper, attached for convenience to a small block.

A simple option made from planed boards

The simplest wooden interior door can be made from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together with transverse strips. Planed and sanded boards are stacked close to one another. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.

The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm smaller in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case will it be possible to close them without problems.

To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a tenon half the thickness or saw the edges at 45 o. This option is more labor-intensive, but the room will be warm.

The edges of the door boards can be made curly

According to the rules, grooves are cut out in the boards for transverse strips - dowels. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special wood saw - a reward - is easy to do:

Make two cuts at 45 o. To prevent the saw from slipping, the angle was kept even; a block with the same angle was nailed to the edge. By sliding the saw along it, you will make an even cut at the desired angle.
On the other side, at a distance of 30 mm, make a similar cut in the other direction.
Use a chisel to select wood between them. The result is a trapezoidal groove into which a key of the same format is driven. For greater reliability, you can use wood glue. It is better not to use PVA glue. Moreover, for the doors to the steam room: it will not withstand such temperatures. For steam rooms and wet rooms, glue is chosen with a high moisture resistance class (from D3 and above).

As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled with your own hands, without nails.

You can make wooden doors without nails

You can assemble a similar door easier: by screwing the transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you are installing it in a steam room, it is advisable to recess the caps into the wood, or screw them in from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, when you touch the door, you will not get burned by the heated metal.

Entrance door made of two rows of boards

If the doors are made from two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you will get a good entrance door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then the steam room will need good ventilation - with such a device, air does not pass through the doors.

The first row is assembled in exactly the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another and fastened with transverse strips.

Doors made of two rows of boards are already entrance doors

Another row will be laid on top, and the gap can be filled with heat insulation. It is selected depending on the installation location: for the front door it is important that if moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties and is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam; polystyrene foam is cheaper. Mineral wool is not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.

Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse planks with self-tapping screws. If you have a door without nails on one side, you can turn this side towards the street: this way you won’t have to worry about unsightly dark streaks coming from the caps during use.

The final stage of manufacturing a wooden entrance door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (screw with self-tapping screws) slats onto the first layer. This is a more correct option. But you can, having assembled both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, covering the insides.

The very last thing: cut in the hinges and install the handles. Then you can install the doors in the doorway. How to do this, read the article “Installing door frames with your own hands”

The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is, firstly, the installation of door trims - if the width of the door frame is not enough, and platbands, which give a finished look.

Plywood doors

You can make good interior doors with your own hands from blocks and plywood. There may be several options.

Single layer

This design is suitable for installation in some utility room where sound and heat insulation is not important. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several transverse strips, onto which a plywood sheet of suitable size is stuffed.

Plywood can be any kind, but 1-2 grades are required for good appearance. It does not contain (class 1) or almost no (class 2) knots on the front surface. This material comes in different thicknesses: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in damp rooms, there is laminated - in this case there is no need for finishing: it is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.

There are many types of plywood and as a construction or finishing material it is very convenient

When choosing plywood for residential premises or baths, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue is used that contains formaldehyde. The content of formaldehyde is controlled, depending on its quantity and intensity of its release into the atmosphere, and an emission class is assigned: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission class 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for doors to the bathhouse.

Multilayer

The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat/sound insulation can be laid between them. As a result, similar doors can be installed in a steam room. You will only need to take moisture-resistant plywood. It can then be tinted with stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil or wax.

Multi-layer plywood doors are easy to make with your own hands

You can fasten plywood using small nails or self-tapping screws. You will have to drill holes for the screws: then there will be a guarantee that upper layer will not be damaged.

You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It's important to choose suitable design, have some patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.

Do-it-yourself doors: entrance, interior, wooden, plywood, manufacturing, assembly, photo, video materials

A bathhouse or cottage built with your own hands is a reason for pride. You can also make doors yourself: entrance and interior. They can be assembled from boards or

The tree is traditional material, used for the manufacture of furniture, interior parts, finishing materials. The tree is distinguished by its magnificent appearance, environmental friendliness, and ease of processing. Many interior details, such as entrance or interior doors, are often made of natural wood. Finished products are quite expensive and not everyone can pay a tidy sum for natural doors. If you really want to, you can decorate the room with your own hands by making interior doors from wood.

As practice shows, it is quite difficult to make doors from natural wood yourself. You need to take into account a lot of nuances, have high-quality and well-dried material, and professional tools. You can’t get by with a jigsaw and a hand saw when making solid wood doors; you need a whole range of tools.

Electric milling machine and set of shaped cutters. This tool is needed for a whole range of work: turning profiles on door parts, making groove joints on some elements.
A circular saw that will be used to cut wood.
Angle grinder with wheels for grinding and polishing wood.
A screwdriver, which will be useful when assembling all the door elements.
Measuring tools: tape measure, angle, caliper, level.
Hammer and mallet.

Nuances that may arise when working with solid wood

Even well-dried wood can absorb moisture in a few days in a damp and cold room. This most often leads to the formation of fibers on the treated surface, misalignment and deformation of parts.
Drying wet wood must be done gradually, at a certain temperature, otherwise the material will tear along the fibers and large cracks will appear.
In open sunlight, uncovered finishing materials the wood quickly darkens and visually ages.
Wood is a fairly soft material. When struck, chips and depressions form on it, spoiling the appearance.

Step-by-step instructions for making an interior door

Each work on creating a door must be carried out in stages.

If the board was purchased with bark, then using a circular saw you need to clean the side ends. The door structure requires 4 boards with a width of 15 cm. Two must have a length of at least 200 cm, the remaining two form the width of the door leaf. The standard door has a width of 80 cm, the smaller version is 70 cm. Having decided on the dimensions of the door leaf, you can begin processing the wood.

This is followed by processing of the surfaces of the boards. For this work, an angle grinder with a sanding disc is used. When polishing wood, you need to carefully clean every centimeter of the surface, otherwise the fibers will ruin the entire appearance when painting. You don't have to touch the ends.

Assembling a solid structure

The second stage is processing the ends using a milling cutter. The corners of wooden blanks are processed using chamfers; it is important to slightly round them and not give them a round shape. Next, using a narrow chamfer, grooves are cut in 2 ends, identical in length and width of the boards. This groove must match the width of the pre-laminated particle board purchased. It is optimal to purchase material with a thickness of 15-16 mm. The groove on the long end of the board should be driven exactly in the middle. Cutting depth 2 cm.

The next stage is processing all the narrow ends of the boards. For this job you need a circular saw. With its help, the ends of the boards are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. You can measure the angle using a protractor. It is important to cut the corners so that when assembled, the long and short top boards form the letter P. The bottom board should also fit together with the side boards.

Cutting laminated board

The middle of the door, the so-called panel, is cut out of the laminated board, which not only reduces material costs, but also becomes a decoration of the structure.

Cutting laminated board

The dimensions of the laminated workpiece are calculated quite simply. If the width of the processed boards is 15 cm, and the width of the door is 80 cm, then the insert made of laminated material should be 54 cm. 50 cm for the visible surface, and 2 cm for shrinkage in the grooves at the ends of the boards. The height is calculated exactly like this. Height standard door is 200 cm, the boards along the edges of the canvas are 15 cm, which means that the height of the laminated board should be 174, where 4 cm goes to the grooves. Total: the size of the laminated material blank should be 174 by 54 cm.

Test assembly of the structure

Step-by-step instructions for making an interior door

In order to make sure that the entire door structure is made correctly, all parts match completely, fit into the grooves, there are no gaps or distortions, you need to carry out preliminary assembly without using glue and eurobolts. To do this, all elements are connected, the laminated board is carefully seated in the grooves using wooden mallet.

If everything is done correctly, you can start drilling holes for mounting hardware. To do this, fasteners are drilled into the assembled structure, into the upper and lower grooves on both sides. The length of confirmations must be at least 7 cm.

Installation of door hardware

After the holes for the fasteners are drilled, the door structure needs to be disassembled. Ahead is the installation of fittings and application of the finishing coating. Experts do not recommend drilling holes for handles and locks in the assembled door, as this can cause damage. laminated coating inserts, thereby spoiling the appearance of the door leaf.

Locks with handles do not need to be inserted right away; you just need to drill holes for them in the wood. After this you can start final assembly designs. A little glue is poured into the grooves intended for shrinking the laminated board insert. Then the laminated panel is inserted into the grooves and seated using a wooden mallet. A few drops of PVA glue are poured into the holes for the fasteners and the confirmations are screwed in. The canvas is ready.

Final painting of wooden door elements

For this work, you can use a variety of paints and covering materials. It all depends on individual preferences. But before you coat the wood, it needs to be prepared.

For this you need wood putty. The material is selected by color. If, for example, the door is planned to be painted in Wenge color, then the putty for sealing seams, chips and other defects should be dark.

Final painting of wooden door elements

After the drying oil has dried, you can begin painting the door leaf, after first gluing masking tape to those places that will not be painted. In our case, we need to cover the laminated panel from paint.

There are several rules to follow when painting doors.

Paint is applied to large areas of the canvas using a roller, hard to reach places a brush comes into play.
To prevent the brush from fading and leaving hairs on the painted surface, it must first be soaked in cold water.
The ends of the doors are painted first.
It is customary to start painting the canvas from the top, moving the brush or roller from left to right.
For perfect result it is required to apply 2-3 layers of covering material.
You should not put too much paint on a brush or roller; in this case, drips will form and there will be excessive consumption of material.
You need to remove the masking tape when the paint has not yet hardened. If it dries, the tape may come off with some of the paint on it.

After painting, you need to let the canvas dry for several days. After this, you can begin installing the fittings and installing the door in the doorway.

How to install a homemade door

Installing a door is a process no less labor-intensive and complex than its manufacture. To form a door frame you need profile bars, which are assembled into a structure similar to the letter P. The bars, like the platbands, must be painted in the same color as the door leaf.

In the corners, the connection of the side beams and the top lintel must be made accurately and carefully, otherwise the box will warp. The entire assembled structure is inserted into the doorway and attached to anchors. The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. In the future, these visual defects will be hidden by the platband.

The next stage of work is attaching the hinges to the door leaf. You also need to attach counter hinges to the door frame. It is important that the location of the fittings completely coincides, otherwise you will have to cut the hinges in a new way, ruining the appearance of the canvas or box.

Router for installing hinges

The painted door already has a lock cut into it; after it is placed on the hinges, you need to cut a hole in the door frame for the lock. The trim is attached, hiding all the imperfections, and the door is ready with your own hands.

Let yours new door makes you and your family happy!

Making wooden doors with your own hands

Learn about making wooden doors with your own hands, selecting materials, decorating, photos + videos. Do-it-yourself wooden doors.

Making wooden doors with your own hands

Without doors, even the most elegant building can hardly be called a home. Entrance, interior, and balcony doors not only protect your home from thieves and noise, but also make it more comfortable and attractive. Very often in design solution It is the doors that play the role of the final chord, without which the entire decoration loses its chic.

Probably every zealous owner has thought at least once in his life that a wooden door made with his own hands will be much better than a purchased one. There are many reasons for this, it could be:

Non-standard opening dimensions;
Lack of funds to purchase a finished door;
Lack of a suitable model;
The desire to have an environmentally friendly atmosphere in the home.

Today, nothing is impossible either for an experienced craftsman, or even for a beginner who picked up a plane and a hammer for the first time. Do-it-yourself wooden door is a topic on which you can find a wide variety of instructions and descriptions.

Standard for independent work wood or metal is taken. Moreover, in the vast majority of cases, preference is given to wood. This is understandable; wooden doors have been made with their own hands since man built his first house. Wood is a soft and pliable material, which, if properly processed, can become durable and last for many years.

The first prototypes of wooden doors, as historical excavations have shown, date back to the times of Alexandria. From then to the present day, the principle of their manufacture has remained almost unchanged, despite many of the latest technologies and tools.

Advantages and disadvantages

Despite the fact that today many newfangled materials have been developed for the manufacture of furniture, window blocks and, of course, doors, natural wood remains a constant priority. This is understandable; wood is the most environmentally friendly material. Wherever the plant grows, it will destroy harmful carcinogens rather than become saturated with them.

Advantages

In addition to environmental friendliness, we can also call whole line benefits, for example:

Ease of processing;
Low density combined with high strength;
Durability;
Low thermal conductivity;
Soundproof;
Resistant to negative impact acid and alkaline solutions;
Elasticity, almost all breeds are easy to bend, which allows you to perform original designs made of solid wood;
Natural beauty.

Of course, many artificial composite materials are not inferior to wood in these parameters, and in some ways they may even be superior. But the natural qualities of natural wood, which provide coolness in the heat and warmth in the cold, cannot be replaced by either laminate or plastic. And doors made of quality wood according to your drawings and with your own hands, they will undoubtedly be the best element in the house.

But, unfortunately, like any natural material, wood has its drawbacks that must be taken into account when manufacturing wooden door with your own hands.

Flaws

Absorption. This is the property of wood to absorb water molecules from the air, which leads over time to deformation or a change in the original dimensions of the product.

Instability to biological damage;
Fire hazard;
Decay.

But, all these negative qualities are solved by correct processing, pre-drying and coating with protective compounds.

Features of different types of wood

The correct choice of source material is of great importance for creating a high-quality wooden door with your own hands. It is no secret that different tree species differ significantly in physical and mechanical properties.

The source material, which is widely represented in construction markets today, is divided into two main groups: coniferous and hardwoods trees.

Hardwood

In this group there is the most valuable wood, superior to others in hardness, with a fairly high density, original texture and pleasant natural color.

These are mainly hard, expensive varieties, such as:

More affordable species that have equally high qualities include oak, ash, and cherry.

Oak is a highly durable and very hard wood that is resistant to biological decay. And thanks to the high content of tannins, oak blanks are perfectly pickled. The material is easy to process even with hand tools and is excellent for making curved parts.

Ash can compete with oak in hardness and strength, is significantly superior in the beauty of texture, but is many times inferior in biosafety. If ash is not treated with an antiseptic, then after the first wet season it will begin to rot.

Conifers

Boards from coniferous species have always been a priority in the construction market and are still in high demand. This is due to its affordability and a large number of positive characteristics. In the overwhelming majority, blanks are made from pine, less often from spruce.

Spruce has a more capricious wood. It is highly susceptible to breakdown and biodegradation. But, on the other hand, it almost does not accumulate moisture and does not change its shape. In addition, spruce has significantly higher thermal conductivity indicators.

Analyzing all the parameters, we can say that pine is the best option for making wooden entrance doors with your own hands. If you plan to make interior doors, then it is better to give preference to hardwood.

You cannot say “good” or “bad” about a tree. At correct selection material, taking into account the purposes and operation, any array will be ideal. It is important to clearly know what kind of wooden door you are going to make with your own hands, and well-chosen wood will be an excellent helper for you.

Types of doors

The classification of doors has a rather complex structure. According to the main purpose, external and internal forms are distinguished, that is, entrance or interior doors.

Single-sex;
One-and-a-half, made of two canvases of different widths;
Double-field;

According to manufacturing technology, doors can be:

Doors with keys

The simplest and most affordable option for how to quickly and easily make a wooden door with your own hands. The technology consists of connecting selected bars with dowels, which can be positioned depending on the imagination of the master: across, in the letter “Z”, in a herringbone pattern or in another pattern. The dowels can be made of the same wood, metal or special plastic.

Doors with simple straight bars are installed in utility rooms or as external in country houses. Using curly dowels, you can use this method to make wooden doors with your own hands in the “country” style, which can advantageously emphasize the overall theme of the kitchen or living room.

Paneled doors

This is a more complex scheme for making a wooden door with your own hands, requiring separate construction of the frame and inserts - panels. Insert strips can be of a wide variety of shapes and materials. They are installed according to the “tenon and groove” principle.

Most often, such doors are made for interior spaces, but with desire and little effort you can make a durable entrance door. The variety of materials that can be selected for inserts allows you to make wooden doors with your own hands of the most whimsical design, completely in harmony with the design of living rooms.

Panel models

The most budget-friendly option for making wooden doors with your own hands is the panel model. The principle of the device is based on casing chipboard sheet wooden planks, which strengthen the structure. Veneer is usually used for finishing. Such products are suitable for indoor use only.

Step-by-step instructions for making a paneled entrance door

The scheme for making wooden doors with your own hands, regardless of the type, is always the same. Small differences relate to the selection and installation of fittings, reinforcing elements and finishing touches.

Before you begin making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to make sure that the boards you purchased meet the accepted standard, do not require additional drying and do not have visible defects. Next, prepare necessary tools. If in your home set something is missing, you need to buy it or rent it in advance.

Tools and materials

Manual milling cutter;
Circular saw, grinding wheels mounted on a drill or grinder;
Electric drill;
Screwdriver;
Set of chisels;
Screwdriver Set;
Hammer;
Measurement tools;
Construction adhesive;
Confirmants (shkans);
Paint and varnish mixtures for the protection and treatment of surfaces;
Planed dried board 4x10 or 4x15, 6 pieces, but it’s better to take it with a reserve in case of errors in work;
LDSP (laminated chipboard) of the appropriate color.

Preparing frame parts. The measured and cut boards for the frame must be carefully sanded on the wide sides. The ends can be left untouched; they will be processed during the milling process.

Select the necessary cutters and perform the following operations:

Rounding corners;
A groove at the end of one of the boards, 2 cm deep and 1.6 cm wide, along the entire length;
Pay special attention to ensure that the groove is strictly in the middle.

Angular trimming of the ends of parts. The ends of all prepared boards must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The easiest way to do this is with a circular saw. Make sure the lengths of the vertical and horizontal parts match.

Cut the chipboard to size. This should be done according to the following scheme: door width minus board width x2 + groove depth x2. If you are not confident in your abilities, you can buy ready-made cut material.

Before installing confirmants, it is necessary to perform a test assembly. To do this, you need to stuff the finished parts onto the chipboard and check whether the structure lies evenly and whether there are any defects or gaps. Then make holes in the top and bottom of the door, and install confirmants.

The finishing touch is decoration

The desire of every craftsman is to make wooden doors with his own hands better than factory products. Therefore, the closest attention must be paid to the decoration stage.

You can complete the finishing with veneering or lamination, highlight the beauty of the natural pattern with colorless or tinted stain, or simply paint it in a suitable color.

Do-it-yourself wooden door: how to make it yourself, videos, diagrams and drawings

Do-it-yourself wooden door: how to assemble and install it easily and without errors. List of necessary materials and tools. Work order.

Wood is a traditional material used for making furniture, interior parts, and finishing materials. The tree is distinguished by its magnificent appearance, environmental friendliness, and ease of processing. Many interior details, such as entrance or interior doors, are often made of natural wood. Finished products are quite expensive and not everyone can pay a tidy sum for natural doors. If you really want to, you can decorate the room with your own hands by making interior doors from wood.

Electric milling machine and set of shaped cutters. This tool is needed for a whole range of work: turning profiles on door parts, making groove joints on some elements.
A circular saw that will be used to cut wood.
Angle grinder with wheels for grinding and polishing wood.
A screwdriver, which will be useful when assembling all the door elements.
Measuring tools: tape measure, angle, caliper, level.
Hammer and mallet.

Nuances that may arise when working with solid wood

Even well-dried wood can absorb moisture in a few days in a damp and cold room. This most often leads to the formation of fibers on the treated surface, misalignment and deformation of parts.
Drying wet wood must be done gradually, at a certain temperature, otherwise the material will tear along the fibers and large cracks will appear.
In open sunlight, wood not covered with finishing materials quickly darkens and visually ages.
Wood is a fairly soft material. When struck, chips and depressions form on it, spoiling the appearance.

Video - Making doors with your own hands

Each work on creating a door must be carried out in stages.

The middle of the door, the so-called panel, is cut out of the laminated board, which not only reduces material costs, but also becomes a decoration of the structure.

The dimensions of the laminated workpiece are calculated quite simply. If the width of the processed boards is 15 cm, and the width of the door is 80 cm, then the insert made of laminated material should be 54 cm. 50 cm for the visible surface, and 2 cm for shrinkage in the grooves at the ends of the boards. The height is calculated exactly like this. The height of a standard door is 200 cm, the boards along the edges of the leaf are 15 cm, which means that the height of the laminated board should be 174, where 4 cm goes to the grooves. Total: the size of the laminated material blank should be 174 by 54 cm.

Test assembly of the structure

In order to make sure that the entire door structure is made correctly, all parts match completely, fit into the grooves, there are no gaps or distortions, you need to carry out preliminary assembly without using glue and eurobolts. To do this, all the elements are connected, the laminated board is carefully seated in the grooves using a wooden mallet.

After the holes for the fasteners are drilled, the door structure needs to be disassembled. Ahead is the installation of fittings and application of the finishing coating. Experts do not recommend drilling holes for handles and locks in the assembled door, as this can damage the laminated coating of the insert, thereby ruining the appearance of the door leaf.

Locks with handles do not need to be inserted right away; you just need to drill holes for them in the wood. After this, you can begin the final assembly of the structure. A little glue is poured into the grooves intended for shrinking the laminated board insert. Then the laminated panel is inserted into the grooves and seated using a wooden mallet. A few drops of PVA glue are poured into the holes for the fasteners and the confirmations are screwed in. The canvas is ready.

Video - Making doors from solid wood

For this work, you can use a variety of paints and covering materials. It all depends on individual preferences. But before you coat the wood, it needs to be prepared.

There are several rules to follow when painting doors.

Paint is applied to large areas of the canvas using a roller; in hard-to-reach places, a brush is used.
To prevent the brush from fading and leaving hairs on the painted surface, it must first be soaked in cold water.
The ends of the doors are painted first.
It is customary to start painting the canvas from the top, moving the brush or roller from left to right.
For an ideal result, you need to apply 2-3 layers of covering material.
You should not put too much paint on a brush or roller; in this case, drips will form and there will be excessive consumption of material.
You need to remove the masking tape when the paint has not yet hardened. If it dries, the tape may come off with some of the paint on it.

After painting, you need to let the canvas dry for several days. After this, you can begin installing the fittings and installing the door in the doorway.

Installing a door is a process no less labor-intensive and complex than its manufacture. To form a door frame, you need profile bars, which are assembled into a structure similar to the letter P. The bars, like the platbands, must be painted in the same color as the door leaf.

A door is a device that allows people to pass through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an “insurmountable” wall, the second is a mechanism with which the doorway opens. By connecting the canvas with the hanging mechanism and adjusting their coordinated work, everyone can confidently say that they have made a door.

Wooden door manufacturing technology

Making a wooden door is very simple. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of equal thickness, in a matter of minutes you can tie them into an even, flat sheet, and use the same twine instead of hinges. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a plane, a sander.

You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and carpentry skills

More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fastener was very expensive. Therefore, craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The connections were made of wood, consisting of tenons, grooves and dowels ( wooden nails). It took skill and fine craftsmanship to precisely fit the parts by hand. Good master I made the door over several days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the production of doors was put on an assembly line, and the “human factor” was reduced to the adjustment and adjustment of machines with numerical control.

Video: door production at the factory

In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and devices that allow you to make a simple door for your own use. The materials are available and often the only task is proper assembly and fitting.

The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:

Frame (panel) construction. The frame of the future door is made from solid wood, consisting of two posts and crossbars. The interior space is covered with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with “honeycombs” or soundproofing material. As a rule, this is a canvas rectangular shape. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape doorway is 2 meters high and 0.5–0.8 m wide. In rare cases, doors are made bigger size. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But in this case it is necessary to use more powerful hinges, since the mass of the sash increases.
Panel door assembled from wooden slats, fits well with country style
Paneled construction. In this case, the door consists entirely of natural wood. At the same time, its mass and strength increase. It is clear that a solid piece of wood measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from components, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, paneling is a thin board or plywood inserted inside a wooden frame. Moreover, it can be replaceable.
A paneled door made of solid wood can be decorated with artistic carvings

With current door production technologies, the clear division of the door leaf structure into frame and panel has been somewhat erased. The doors can be combined, combining elements of both panels and panels.

Video: Are doors today divided into panel and panel doors (expert opinion)

Industrial production of wooden doors includes the following stages:

Preparation of wood material.
Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
Manufacturing of canvas and frame parts.
Assembly of the structure.
Finishing work (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).

When making doors yourself, all stages are reproduced at home.

Equipment and tools

For the manufacture of various types doors require different tools. Simple panel board it is constructed using a hacksaw (with a small furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver if the fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more “advanced” door is assembled using electrical devices:

Manual electric router. It is used to mill panel parts and give them profile view. Groove joints require the removal of wood, which is also done using a milling machine.
The router kit includes a set of cutters with different lengths and cutting edge configurations
Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. Please note that when using a drill, you need a tool with adjustable speed. Too fast a starting rotation will not allow you to control the process of immersion of the fastener.
A screwdriver with adjustable speed and rotation power will allow you to correct installation fasteners
A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With its help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Accuracy in cuts is important, so the saw must be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly and cause chips.
The built-in ruler on the circular saw allows you to cut boards to a given size
Grinder with a set of grinding attachments. Power and high revs corner grinding machine in this situation they are only welcome.
Polishing of a wooden surface is carried out with special attachments
Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight ruler, rectangle.
Set of carpentry hand tools: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.
A variety of hand tools significantly speeds up the door assembly process

It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or desktop - it is much more convenient and faster.

As for the material for doors, the design and shape of the door leaf is of great importance. Inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. Materials with high strength are used for entrances, and lighter, decorative types of wood are used for interiors.

The door frame is made from solid wooden blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for the racks and two meter timber the same section for the cross members. On one side, a quarter is selected equal to the thickness of the door leaf. However, a prefabricated frame design is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin slats.

The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf

The most affordable material is pine and spruce boards. Spruce lumber is stronger, but pine has a more beautiful texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for making doors. Solid oak wood is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, oak harvesting is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.

For simple doors with a laminated chipboard insert you will need:

edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;
High quality boards are calibrated in all four planes
a sheet of laminated chipboard with a total area of no more than 2 m2;
Chipboard cutting to specified dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase.
PVA glue;
Glue is used to strengthen the fastenings of wooden door elements
varnish or paint;
confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.
Color-matched plastic plugs make connections virtually invisible

Confirmats are special screws with a smoothed end and an “invisible” head. They are used in assembling furniture and other joinery products. A distinctive feature is the wide thread pitch, which allows you to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed sheets of particle boards. Confirmation splines come in different configurations - from conventional Phillips to hexagonal and star. Accordingly, a suitable attachment is selected for the screwdriver.

To install the confirmat, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used

Calculations and drawings

A well-drawn drawing will help you avoid mistakes and waste of materials when making doors. A sketch and detailing are made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.

The drawing shows all design features doors

In accordance with construction GOSTs, the following parameters are adopted when installing doors:

The distance from the corner to the hinges at the bottom and top is the same and is 15–25 cm.
During installation, it is necessary to observe technological clearances
The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The strike plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood so that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.
The handle and lock are installed on the door in last resort
The viewing window is placed at eye level - 150–160 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.
If a ventilation grill is provided in the door leaf, it is attached in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.
The ventilation grille can be equipped with a built-in electric fan

You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. The shapes of rubber seals are different and depending on this, the geometry of the door frame profile is formed. Some types of seals require additional recessing for installation.

Before installing the self-adhesive door seal, you must remove the protective film

And finally, the door threshold. Most often, interior doors do not have a threshold. This saves materials and reduces assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through. Therefore, it is advisable to strengthen this part of the door frame with a metal trim.

Metal trim increases the strength of the door threshold

Video: making a simple panel door

Step by step instructions

Let's consider the technology for making a wooden door yourself:

Preparatory stage. The prepared boards are carefully processed using a grinding attachment on a grinder to a polished surface. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then start immediately with a medium-grain sheet. The final goal of polishing is an absolutely smooth surface with well-developed wood grain lines. It should be taken into account that different rocks have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. You will have to work hard on oak or ash.
Vibratory sanders are used for polishing wood.
Next, you need to mill the parts in accordance with the intended door design. Using a router and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert is adjusted to its groove individually. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for lapping. Standard thickness particle board used for doors - 16 mm. This means that the width of the groove will be 17 mm. The depth is selected from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely secure the insert into the frame of the canvas. It must be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the tenon. Another option is possible, when laminated chipboard is attached to the canvas frame with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side posts, it is enough to choose a quarter.
It is advisable to carry out the sampling of the quarter on a firmly fixed canvas
Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45°. If it is possible to use an end circular saw, the process is significantly speeded up. But if it is not there, the marking is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be made by an ordinary circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size, which must be measured along the long side of the door frame.
The miter saw allows you to make high-quality cuts at any angle
Cut the panels, in our case a sheet of chipboard. The size of the height and width is calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (top and bottom) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the top and bottom crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000-(150x2)+(20x2) = 174 cm. The same calculations are carried out for the width.
Primary installation. It is carried out for the final fitting of all parts into a single structure. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), cracks and gaps are checked, and the general geometry of the canvas is checked. If “inconsistencies” are detected, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be secured with confirmations. To do this, first drill holes to match the diameter of the head, then screw in a screw with the head immersed “flush”.
Decorating the door leaf. Of the types available at home, the most acceptable are painting and varnishing. Gluing decorative film or veneer onto rounded surfaces will not work well. A spray bottle can be a good help when applying a layer of paint. With its help, you can achieve uniform coating on the surface of the door. However, this also requires certain experience and skills. Many experts believe that decoration is the most important and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.
Doors are varnished in a well-ventilated and lit room.
Installation of accessories. It is done last, when the product is already mounted in the doorway. Technological holes for inserting the lock and handle are prepared in advance. The recesses for the canopies are cut out with a chisel based on the size of the hinges. The only exception is the rubber seal. If its configuration involves deepening into the array, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware

Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands

DIY barn door

For simple household needs, it is not necessary to assemble a paneled door with complex structural elements. A panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated panel and a wooden door frame, is quite suitable for a utility room or barn. Doors made from lining or tongue-and-groove boards are very convenient in this regard. These lumber are sold with already planed grooves and a smooth surface.

The manufacturing process is very simple:

Hardwood

Conifers

Wood selection rules

Types of wood doors by design

Required tools and materials

Materials

Tools

How to make a wooden door: step-by-step instructions

Keyed

Panel

Paneled

How to prepare

Popular models

Manufacturing

Measurements

Materials

How to make a door frame?

How to make the door itself: step-by-step instructions

How to insert?

Finishing

General principles

Making a door frame

Wooden doors to a bathhouse or country house

Plywood doors

Nuances that may arise when working with solid wood

Step-by-step instructions for making an interior door

Cutting laminated board

Test assembly of the structure

Installation of door hardware

Final painting of wooden door elements

How to install a homemade door

Making wooden doors with your own hands

Advantages and disadvantages

Features of different types of wood

Types of doors

Step-by-step instructions for making a paneled entrance door

The finishing touch is decoration

Nuances that may arise when working with solid wood

Video - Making doors with your own hands

Test assembly of the structure

Video - Making doors from solid wood

Wooden door manufacturing technology

Video: door production at the factory

Video: Are doors today divided into panel and panel doors (expert opinion)

Equipment and tools

Calculations and drawings

Video: making a simple panel door

Step by step instructions

Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands

DIY barn door

Video: barn doors

Read also