We are used to seeing begonia on the windowsills of apartments and houses. But this plant grows well in open ground. Compositions from blooming begonia You can decorate verandas, stairs and areas of your summer cottage. They do well in plant pots and floor vases.

About balconies apartment buildings there is nothing to say, anyone, even a beginner florist, can admire the diversity of its species. Provided that she knows what begonias need for gorgeous flowering.

Photo of begonia

Begonia A low flower that belongs to herbaceous plants. The rhizome is modified and is a tuber. The stem is very thin, translucent, at the ends of which full double buds ripen.

There can be many shades of begonia: from white to bright burgundy. Sometimes there are orange, purple and even blue specimens.

Begonia is divided into female and male individuals. When pollinated successfully, the flowers produce many seeds that can be collected and grown into new plants. This flower has a pronounced seasonality.

For your information

At the end of autumn, it completely sheds its leaves and remains dormant until spring.

How to grow tuberous begonia

In order to get abundant flowering, you need to know the features and rules of care that have been developed over years of cultivation. Begonia is a whimsical crop; one can say about it that it is a capricious beauty.

Not every amateur gardener can boast that his efforts in growing begonias produce many flowers on each plant. But anyone can achieve this.

As for light, the smaller the flower, the more natural daylight it requires. Plants with large tubers can thrive in partial shade, without direct sun. But in this case, hanging varieties may not bloom at all.

Canopy plants Crops grown in hanging planters. The name comes from the word Ampel - a hanging vase for flowering plants.

What does begonia like?

• Ampelous begonias are very fragile and must be protected from the wind. If you know that the place where they are located is prone to drafts, be sure to strengthen the bush with support.
• Temperature for different varieties several different ones are required. But you need to keep in mind that begonias are heat-loving.
• The most persistent are large-flowered hybrids; they are able to form buds even at a temperature of 10 degrees.

For the winter, begonia needs to be well insulated, and it is better to dig it out of the ground altogether. At low temperatures, tubers are likely to die.

• If a cold wind blows, the leaves turn black.
• But in the same way, begonias do not like excessive dryness and heat. When the soil overheats, the leaves will turn yellow and the buds will drop. The same symptoms of trouble occur when there is insufficient air humidity.

Particular attention should be paid to soil quality. It should be rich in vitamins and loose. When planting, it must be fertilized with compost or rotted manure. The mixture looks something like this:

• 3 parts deciduous soil
• to 1 part sand and peat.

Begonia tubers are planted in the ground in early June, when the ground is already sufficiently warmed up.

A houseplant can be planted earlier, for example, in May or April, when daylight hours are long.

Attention!

Seedlings purchased in a store must first stand indoors for several days to get used to the temperature and humidity. After this, it can be planted in a permanent pot, and when the bush grows and becomes stronger, it can be transferred to open ground.

When replanting the plant, you need to be extremely careful, since the stem is very delicate and fragile. It can be easily damaged or broken, which often happens, to the great chagrin of novice gardeners.

Tuberous begonia grows well at home if it is provided with proper care, which includes careful replanting, selection of soil and placement of the plant where it will not be threatened by wind, dryness, or heat. In good weather, pots can be displayed on open balcony or keep it on the loggia all summer.

Warning

You cannot shade or flood the plant too much. The roots must dry well before the next watering, otherwise there is a risk of rot.

Valuable tips for growing begonias and how they behave when harvested winter storage. What she loves, and what careless actions can lead to the death of the plant.

If you want to next year you had a lot of blooming begonia to decorate the area - watch the video.

conclusions

• Begonia should be trimmed close to the ground.
• Water very sparingly and as shown: along the edges of the container in which the begonia overwinters.
• Cut plants should be covered loosely, but they must be covered.

We just learned how to grow begonia at home so that it decorates the area, so that there are many flowers on it and they bloom for a long time and abundantly.

In addition to begonias, other indoor plants also feel great at home. Including those that bloom in central Russia in winter time, decorating the house and delighting household members and guests.

As you know, the vast majority of bright, showy flowers categorically refuse to develop normally, much less bloom in the shade. At the same time, not all flower beds can be placed in brightly lit areas of the garden. For example, on our site there are most shady places, and there’s nothing we can do about it, since next to us behind the fence we have a forest with all the ensuing consequences in the form of inevitable shadow.

Of course, all the well-lit areas in my garden are reserved for greenhouses, fruit and vegetable crops, because in partial shade the chances of getting their harvest are zero. Flower beds and decorative areas must be content with what is left - that is, partial shade and even shade. Therefore, I give preference not to flowers, but to a variety of shade-tolerant ornamental plants - mostly conifers. However, you can’t do it with conifers alone, because you also need bright colors. Not many plants can provide them. And one of them is tuberous begonia, which has long taken root in our garden, feels good and fits perfectly into the landscape.

This plant amazes with its variety of varieties with truly royal flowers of the most striking colors and can rightfully compete with many other exotic flowering plants from the tropics and subtropics. However, in our area, the main advantage of begonia is its ability to tolerate a lack of light and survive in our difficult climatic conditions. True, for this you need to adhere to some agrotechnical tricks, otherwise the whole idea of ​​planting tuberous begonia will be doomed to failure.

Choosing tubers when purchasing

Let's start with the fact that it is unlikely that you will be able to get hold of this flower by borrowing a couple of tubers from your neighbors. More likely, tubers will have to be bought. In principle, this is not a problem, since they are now offered on the shelves of probably any specialized stores. But there is one nuance - you can buy tubers in packages or individually. When purchasing packaged tubers, you take a big risk, since it is difficult to examine them carefully, and the likelihood of purchasing planting material that turns out to be very weak or completely unviable is very high. It is better to buy tubers individually , meticulously examining each of them, and choosing only specimens that are dense to the touch and not too large (about 5 cm in diameter) with the most rounded shape. You should not take flat tubers, because these are usually the tubers of old plants, which will bloom worse and will not please you for long. Let me remind you: a begonia tuber remains viable for an average of 5-6 years.

As for sprouts, it is, of course, safer to purchase tubers with sprouts that have barely hatched, but, as a rule, this is only possible if you buy them in the second half of March. In February and early March on tubers at proper storage There shouldn't be any sprouts yet. However, it is better not to delay the purchase of planting material, since at the beginning of the sales season the choice is much richer, and by April most stores still have tubers that have not yet found a buyer: it is clear that at this time you will stumble upon high-quality and healthy stuff it's already much more complicated.

Germination tricks

Store-bought begonia tubers (as well as tubers stored in your bins) first germinated at home. You need to identify tubers for germination in March - this will allow you to get flowering plants in June, because From planting tubers to the appearance of the first flowers it usually takes about three months . Before planting, it is advisable to treat the tubers with stimulants so that the flower buds wake up quickly and there are more sprouts. Previously, I limited myself to soaking tubers in Epine, and last year I soaked them in a more effective stimulant for the first time Mival Agro(ensures the germination of a larger number of eyes, active growth in the initial period of development and accelerates the formation of a powerful root system) - the result was encouraging. Before this, always on tubers (and I have been growing tuberous begonias for more than 10 years), most often two growth buds (sometimes one or three) arose, but this time after treatment, 3-4 buds arose on each of our tubers (on tubers purchased in the store, less, but these tubers were weak). There were even six flower buds on one tuber (though it was the oldest tuber), and it had to be divided into two parts. In this case, dividing the tubers is not difficult - you need to disinfect a sharp knife in potassium permanganate, carefully cut the tuber, lubricate the sections with ordinary brilliant green and leave to dry.

Later, after about a couple of hours in the dry air of the apartment, plant it in the same way as other tubers. There is nothing dangerous in the operation of dividing tubers, but such plants usually bloom a little later than those whose tubers were not divided.

Tubers are usually sprouted in small shallow containers (plastic mayonnaise jars are suitable) or in peat pots.

You can also germinate directly in pots or baskets in which they will grow, if we are talking about hanging varieties that cannot be planted in the ground. The tubers are lightly pressed into slightly moist soil with the convex side down, without burying them in any way. top part tuber It should rise 1-2 mm above the soil surface or be slightly sprinkled. To be honest, when germinating the tubers, it is better not to sprinkle them with soil, but to do this later, when planting the plants in the ground. This makes it easier to prevent moisture from getting into their recesses. At the same time, it is also undesirable to allow the surface of the tubers to dry out excessively, and in the dry air of apartments this is a common occurrence. To avoid drying out, it is better to place containers with germinated tubers in plastic bags, and line the bottom of the pallets with sphagnum.

The only dangerous thing about germination is watering tubers: This should be done very carefully - so that moisture under no circumstances gets into the recess on the tuber, otherwise it can easily rot. If this suddenly happens, then you need to remove the moisture with a regular paper napkin and dry the tuber itself. To prevent such situations, it is better to water begonia tubers from below - through a tray. Of course, you only need to water with warm water, since tuberous begonia is a child of the tropics, and at first very sparingly.

Planting tubers in a permanent place

Begonia is planted in flower beds when the threat of frost has passed - it is possible earlier, but only if the plants are protected with covering material. The latter option, frankly, is preferable, since this will allow you to admire the luxurious flowers by mid-June, but provided that you started germination in March. Begonia can be planted in containers earlier, but if there is the slightest threat of frost, the containers will have to be brought onto the veranda, since these plants cannot withstand even light frosts.

When planting, the tuber is buried 1-2 cm. After the onset of hot summer weather, which often coincides with the beginning of flowering, the plants are watered abundantly (begonia is moisture-loving), but not so much that the soil is constantly very wet, since then the roots will rot . In other words, the soil should dry out a little on top between waterings.

Further care

Begonias are quite tolerant of a lack of light and grow well in partial shade (even under the canopy of trees), but direct sunlight is completely contraindicated for them - the leaves are burned (black or brown dry spots appear on them - traces of sunburn), and the plants noticeably suffer. This nuance should be taken into account when choosing a landing site. As my practice shows, they feel very good in the garden in shady flower beds.

But attempts to grow begonias in containers and on balconies are not always successful. In containers, if they are not located on the walls of buildings that are too overheated in the heat, there is only one problem - rapid drying out of the soil. Therefore, to eliminate such cases, I used to put moss in containers, but now I have found another way - I plant the tubers only in soil with hydrogel.

On the balconies everything is a little different. On our northern loggia, begonias grow in huge boxes without any problems, but on the southern loggia, all attempts to tame them ended in failure due to the too high temperature, because in the heat there it turns out to be much higher than the permissible +25°C. And these plants cannot tolerate such heat very well. Theoretically, in such cases, it is recommended to cool pots with plants in all possible ways: place them in damp peat, sawdust or in a tray with wet pebbles and constantly moisten this substrate. But in practice, for most flower growers, all this is not very realistic, because in addition to monitoring the condition of begonias, everyone has other problems.

The soil for begonias should be fertile and breathable.: The best soil mixture is considered to be a mixture of 3 parts humus soil, 2 parts peat soil and 1 part sand. If the soil is not fertile enough, then throughout the entire season the plants will have to be fed with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer.

Unfortunately, sometimes plants, even under seemingly favorable conditions, begin to feel not very good. This is usually due to under or over watering. In this case, the leaves on the begonias begin to turn yellow, and the tubers may even rot. Here in the Urals, as a rule, the second problem occurs more often: excessive moisture, which is a consequence of prolonged heavy rains. Taught by bitter experience, we build mini-shelters from the rain over the plants. By the way, it is worth noting: if rot on a tuber was noticed immediately, then it can be saved by removing soil from the top of the tuber, removing rotten fragments, sprinkling the rotting area with coal powder and temporarily stopping all watering.

And one more nuance: the stems of begonias are very fragile, and when strong winds they break easily, and at the point of exit from the tuber. Therefore, it is necessary to provide some kind of inconspicuous support or garter, otherwise after a heavy downpour with gusty winds you will miss some of the shoots on the plants.

Tuber storage

Since it is still expensive to buy begonia tubers every year, you should learn how to store them correctly in winter period. In principle it is not that difficult. The storage conditions for these tubers are approximately the same as for gladioli. True, if you have a room suitable in terms of temperature.

However, first tubers should be properly prepared for storage. To do this, after the first light autumn frosts, the stems are cut at a height of several centimeters. In the conditions of the Urals, such a period begins too early, so we keep the plants in the ground for some time, but under shelters so that the tubers are better formed. After pruning, the tubers are dug up without shaking them off the ground and without touching the old roots, and transferred to cardboard boxes to the apartment to dry.

Drying at room temperature lasts for about two weeks. Then the remnants of the stems are removed; often by this time they may fall off on their own. And after this, the tubers are placed in a mixture of dry peat and sand (the tops of the tubers are also covered), where they should be stored in winter at a temperature of about +2...+5°C. Those who constantly live outside the city should have a similar temperature in their basements. Everyone else has to get smarter. For example, we store tubers in a closed box in a mixture of dry sand and peat in the entrance - our entrance area adjacent to the apartments is fenced off, and the temperature there is maintained at the required level. There are also recommendations to store tubers in paper bags in the lower compartment of the refrigerator, but I have never managed to preserve any tubers in this way, with the exception of the super-elite potatoes, and even then with significant losses. However, someone manages...

In February - March, the tubers need to be removed from the improvised storage and germination begins.

Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Ekaterinburg

Begonia tuberous Young plants are planted at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. They prefer soil mixtures with leaf humus and peat chips.

Hybrids of tuberous begonia develop well both in sunny places and in partial shade, which is important because the range of plants for shady places is usually limited. Therefore, it is recommended for windows and balconies with any orientation. For planting, it is advisable to choose a place protected from the wind and heavy rain, because Begonia has very fragile shoots that easily break in bad weather.

This type of begonia is propagated by both seeds and tubers.

In autumn, after flowering, the plants go into a dormant state, the above-ground part gradually dies off. 2 weeks after the stems have completely died, the tubers are removed from the ground, dried and placed in a box with sand or dry peat. Store them at a temperature of 8-14°C in a dry and dark room. The sand or peat is periodically moistened so that it does not dry out completely, but is slightly damp. The dormant period for tuberous begonias lasts 2-3 months, after which the tubers are again ready for planting.

Popular varieties

Due to the great popularity of tuberous begonia, seed companies do not stand aside - more and more new varieties appear every year. As a rule, companies offer entire series of plants, which include hybrids of various colors. It is very difficult to list all the popular collections. For now, let’s focus on begonias from the German company Benary, which have become widespread in recent years, which has more than a dozen series of these plants.

Series Illumination- garland begonia, which is characterized by high germination seeds , as well as short internodes, in each of which large double flowers are formed. The line is designed for hanging baskets. Plants grow well both in the sun and in shady places. The growing season is 18-20 weeks.

The series includes 8 hybrids: Apricot Shades Improved (apricot), White (white), Peaches "n Cream (yellow), Golden Picotee (yellow-red), Salmon Pink (salmon), Orange (red-orange), Rose ( red-pink) and Scarlet (fiery red).

I would like to note that Illumination White begonia has a high growth rate, and Illumination Apricot Shades Improved has flowers of various shades on one plant (from yellow to orange).

Tuberous begonia Illumination Peaches "n Cream	Begonia tuberous Illumination Golden Picotee

Series Nonstop- the leader among erect begonias. The height of the plant is 20 cm. The diameter of the flowers reaches 7-10 cm. Begonia is intended for growing in bright sun or partial shade. The growing season is 17-20 weeks. It will be a wonderful decoration for both apartments and balconies, as well as flower beds in the open ground.

The series consists of 9 hybrids: Red (red), Appleblossom (white-pink, flowers resemble the color of an apple tree), Rose Petticoat Improved (pink with red edges), Deep Rose (dark pink), Pink (pink), Yellow with Red Back (bright yellow), Yellow (yellow), Deep Salmon (salmon) and Orange (orange-red).

Begonia tuberous Nonstop Rose Petticoat Improved	Begonia tuberous Nonstop Pink

Begonia drooping

Begonia pendula or pendula is an ampelous variety of tuberous begonia, about 50 cm high, with simple or semi-double flowers up to 5 cm in diameter, from white to yellow and red. The recommended distance between seedlings is 25 cm. The cultivation technology is the same as for tuberous begonia. Popular varieties are Chanson Picotee and Cascade.

Begonia Chanson Bicolour Orange and Yellow	Begonia Chanson Pink

4. Bolivian Begonia

One of the types of begonia that tolerates bright sun well. The first shoots of this plant grow upward, and all subsequent shoots hang down, forming picturesque hanging “thickets”. The growing season lasts 14-17 weeks. If you want your Bolivian begonia to bloom in May, sowing must be done in January.

One of the common varieties of Bolivian begonia from Benary isSanta Cruz, which has excellent seed germination and good resistance to drought and rain. Over a long period, the plant is decorated with a large number of bright red bell-shaped flowers. Plant height is about 30 cm. Designed for growing in hanging baskets.

Care is the same as for tuberous begonia.

5. Begonia everblooming

A very common type of bushy, erect begonias with rounded, ovoid, shiny leaves up to 5 cm wide and up to 30 cm high. They differ from begonias in their tuberous shape and smaller flowers. The plants are unpretentious and easy to grow.

There are many interesting hybrids with leaves of various shades - from yellow-green to dark red. The flowers are simple or double from pure white to dark red in various shades and shapes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm.

This is a type of begonia that can bloom throughout the year - in the fall the plant can be dug up from a flowerbed or removed from a balcony or terrace and used as an indoor plant. And in the spring you can plant it again in open ground or take it out to balcony .

Begonia everblooming does not tolerate hot and dry air, temperatures below 15°C, excessive watering and very bright sun, preferring partial shade. Well suited for western and eastern windows and balconies. Optimal temperature growing temperature is 13-22°C, and during budding - 18-20°C. The soil should be predominantly sand. In winter, if pots with plants are brought indoors, water them moderately after the surface of the earthen ball has dried.

In flower beds, young plants are planted at a distance of 12-18 cm from each other. Easily roots from stem cuttings. As a rule, they are propagated by seeds.

Popular varieties

Series Cocktail- bestseller of flower markets around the world. Designed for sunny and shaded areas. Plants reach a height of 23 cm. The growing season is 13-15 weeks.

The series includes 6 hybrids, which have the names of different alcoholic drinks: Brandy (pale pink), Vodka (bright red), Gin (pink), Tequila (hot pink), Rum (white with red edges) and Whiskey (white ).

Begonia everblooming Cocktail Tequila	Begonia everblooming Cocktail Vodka

6. Propagation of begonias

Let me remind you that tuberous and Bolivian begonias reproduce both by seeds and tubers, and evergreen begonias by seeds. And you can propagate any begonias using cuttings, leaf and stem.

Tubers are planted from February to April. They are planted with the recess upwards in a moist universal peat-based soil mixture and maintain a temperature of 18-22°C. When the seedlings reach 4-5 cm, the seedlings are transplanted into 12 cm pots in an earth mixture consisting of equal parts of leaf soil, peat and sand. At the beginning of summer it can be planted in open ground. Begonias bloom 5 months after planting.

Further care consists of feeding, maintaining air humidity near the plants and tying them to supports. For better flowering of large male flowers, it is advisable to pluck out small female ones. In mid-October, the tubers are dug up, dried leaves and roots are torn off and stored in dry sand or peat at temperatures above 0°C.

Propagation by dividing old tubers

For propagation, you can also use old large tubers, which are first germinated and cut into pieces so that each of them has a sprouting bud. The cut surfaces are sprinkled with powder from charcoal and leave in air for 24 hours to dry the sections. Then in the spring they are planted, as in the previous case (see Planting new tubers).

Tubers take root after 3 weeks. And in the fall after digging, when the plants enter the dormant stage, they are dried at a temperature of 11-12°C. In general, begonia tubers “rest” for about 3 months.

Propagation by stem and leaf cuttings

Typically propagated from stem and leaf cuttings in spring and early summer. They are rooted in an earth mixture, which consists of sand or a mixture of sand (4 parts) and sphagnum (1 part) at a temperature of 20-22°C. Stem live baits are cut with 2-3 internodes. The bottom leaf is completely removed, and the top one is left at 2/3.

When propagating by leaf cuttings, cut leaves are deepened into the sand by 1.5-2 cm. After 10-20 days, live bait takes root. After another 1-2 weeks, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm in a universal substrate or soil mixture, which consists of leaf soil (1 part), turf soil (1 part), humus (2 parts) and sand (1 part).

Propagation by seeds

Begonia seeds are very small in size. They are collected in a wing-shaped capsule, which cracks when the seeds ripen. In open ground, the plant is pollinated by insects.

IN indoors pollination, if necessary, is carried out manually artificially. But it is worth remembering that hybrids (F1) were obtained by crossing begonias of certain parental forms, and by artificial pollination of flowers of one hybrid at home hereditary traits will not always be inherited. But to obtain seeds from non-hybrids or just for the sake of experiment, you can start seed production of these plants.

For this, uterine, well-developed and typical plants for this species are selected. Then, with a brush, pollen from the largest and most beautiful flowers is transferred to the pistils of female flowers. This procedure is repeated for 3-4 days. Seed ripening occurs within 2 months. After this, the boxes are cut off, in which the seeds ripen for another 3-4 weeks. At good storage Seed germination lasts up to 3 years.

Female begonia flower with future seeds	Ripe begonia boxes with seeds

Sowing of seeds is carried out in November (so that flowering begins in April) or in December-January (so that the plants begin to bloom in May-June). Due to their size, the seeds are usually sown in a mixture with sand or chalk.

For convenience, seed companies produce granulated seeds. They are sown in a universal soil mixture or made yourself using leaf soil. The seeds do not need to be sprinkled with soil, just moistened with water from a spray bottle.

In our city apartments, it is the balcony that often becomes the oasis where constant summer reigns - plants turn green and flowers bloom.

Let's figure it out how to choose the right flowers for the balcony or loggias.

What kind of care do they require? How to protect them from diseases and pests?

In the southern regions of Russia, you can maintain a constant assortment of perennials on balconies, but in the middle and northern regions it is better to prefer annuals. However, a glazed and heated balcony will significantly increase your possibilities in choosing plants.

Flowers on a sunny balcony

If the balcony faces south, sunny side, overwhelming most balcony plants will bloom well and for a long time, with the exception of fuchsia and begonia: excessive sun suppresses them, they wither and sometimes do not bloom at all.

special “greed” for sun and warmth purslane, kobea, morning glory, dorotheanthus and dimorphotheca are exhibited. On cloudy days, the grandiflora purslane will not open its flowers, and in cool summers it blooms sparingly even on a southern balcony.

Daisies, asters, mignonette, dahlias, godetia, gatsania, heliotrope, balsam, lobelia, verbena, violas, sweet peas, morning glory, ampelous pelargonium, nasturtium - an excellent set for a sunny balcony.

African agapanthus and Indian canna feel great in tubs or large pots.

Place Tobacco Grandiflora, Elegant Zinnia and Drummond Phlox in one container and you have a lovely mini flower garden.

To have a balcony pleased with the flowering as early as possible, already in early May you should plant daisies, violas and ever-flowering begonia.

And so that flowering continued until the end of October, use asters, kobea, petunia, gatsania, lantana, tuberous begonia and sedum.

Flowers on a shaded balcony

Begonias, lobelias, fuchsias, mignonettes, and violas will bloom well in partial shade.

Marigolds, pelargoniums, nasturtiums and petunias will tolerate the lack of light. Calceolaria and ageratum are quite comfortable in the penumbra.

If the balcony is heavily shaded, limit yourself to tuberous begonia, daisies, violas, and nasturtium can decorate the balcony until frost, if not abundant flowering, then beautiful rounded leaves.

On high floors, where it is windy and there are constant drafts, it is better to use daisies, low-growing marigolds, ageratum, gatsania, sedum and ever-flowering begonia.

For vertical gardening inside balconies and loggias, ampelous varieties of lobelia, petunia, winged thunbergia, fuchsia, pelargonium and tuberous begonia are suitable.

Interesting balcony flowers and caring for them

And in conclusion, a few words about plants, sometimes undeservedly unclaimed in balcony floriculture.

Begonia

Queen of balconies.

The color range ranges from pure white to pink, yellow, salmon, bright red and crimson. Flowers are simple, semi-double and double on one plant.

Varieties with a height of 15 to 30 cm are suitable. Flowering from late May until October frosts. For the winter, the tubers are put into a cool room and stored until March in sand or peat chips at plus 8-12°C.

It is distinguished by large bell-shaped flowers of an exotic shape on long stalks, first colored green and later bluish-violet. There is a variety with white flowers.

This fast-growing summer plant, thanks to its tenacious and strong tendrils on its pinnate leaves, rises up several meters even on plastered walls, although it is more reliable to strengthen it on a thin wire mesh or a support on a balcony box.

Blooms from June to October. It is afraid of cold weather, so it is planted after finishing spring frosts. Kobeya quickly plants large areas, although from a distance it looks much more modest than calceolaria or salvia.

Propagated by seeds, which are sown in March. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.

Attracts with its luxurious “mosaic” leaves and is easily propagated by cuttings.

Small-leaved balcony forms form a dense bush 20-40 cm high. The brightness of coleus leaves and its showiness in the near or distant plans outshine the brightly colored balcony flowers. Plants are planted in May at a distance of 20-30 cm. In August, coleus are cut and left to overwinter in bright room. Reproduction by seeds is possible in February.

It blooms profusely and tirelessly with yellow flowers resembling bright balls. Plant height 30 cm.

It is enough to buy one plant to further provide a spectacular contrasting bright yellow tone for red pelargonium, salvia, petunia, blue and purple violas, blue ageratum and blue-violet heliotrope.

Propagates well in mid-summer by cuttings in a cool, bright room. They overwinter, like pelargoniums, in a room or frost-free room, and in mid-May they are planted on the balcony.

(Erika carnea), sometimes incorrectly called "heather", reaches 15-30 cm in height, has needle-shaped leaves and is recommended for southern regions and insulated balconies and loggias.

Various varieties bloom from January to March with white, pink and red flowers abundantly covering the tops of the shoots. For autumn flowering, the species Erika gracilis is recommended, blooming from September to November.

Early-flowering Erica is grown on calcareous soil, and late-flowering Erica is grown on a slightly acidic substrate, preferably on a mixture of marsh soil and peat.

Eriks overwinter in the middle zone in the basement, in frost-free loggias, and even in open ground under spruce branches and snow; in the southern regions - in open ground.

Notable for its radiant, shiny, orange-red (to bronze) flowers 7-8 cm in diameter with a dark spot at the base of the petals and a white eye.

Flowering from June to October. Unpretentious, resistant to winds. Height 20-40 cm. Seeds are sown in the room in March, seedlings are planted on the balcony in May. Close-up decoration.

Mini-garden for the balcony

Despite the very limited area, it is advisable to find a place on the balcony for a fragrant mini-garden, for which it is enough to plant two or three plants of mignonette, verbena, tobacco or heliotrope with a distinct aroma of vanilla.

It is useful to have a corner of herbs on the balcony: watercress, salad mustard, catnip, lemon balm, chervil, parsley, dill, savory, chives.

On the balcony in early spring, it is quite easy to force perennial onions (onions, chives, onions), parsley, celery, parsnips, beets, rhubarb.

Plant compositions for balconies

When placing flowers in balcony boxes The main thing is not to get carried away with the variety of colors: no more than two colors that harmonize well. Monochromatic red pelargoniums, fuchsias or salvias, pink petunias, white daisies, yellow or lilac violas are beautiful and laconic.

Two-color combinations of red salvias (petunias, zonal pelargoniums) on the side of the apartment and blue, white, purple petunias paired with yellow marigolds, mignonette, and blue ampelous lobelias on the street side are successful.

Instead of hanging plants in the outer row, you can place low-growing red and white fuchsias, pink ever-flowering begonias, blue petunias or ageratums, and with inside- red tuberous begonias and yellow calceolarias, respectively. These options are suitable for semi-shaded and shady balconies.

To create a bright flower spot that attracts attention from the street, red and white pelargoniums, red salvias, yellow marigolds, calceolarias, and nasturtiums are good.

Up close, ageratum, mignonette, kobea, beans, lobelia, daisies, sedums, etc. are expressive.

Some plants are good only in the same type of planting: purslane, gatsania, godetia, celosia, eric, dimorphotheca, doronicum, nemesia, aster, dahlias, coleus, chrysanthemums and lantana.

Microclimate and seasons on the balcony

On insulated, frost-free balconies or loggias you can carry out a successful early spring forcing bulbs - crocuses, tulips and daffodils.

in autumn a number of ornamental plants from the garden will migrate to the balconies and will delight you with flowering all autumn (asters and chrysanthemums).

In summer the balcony will also be decorated with indoor plants, which benefit from staying on fresh air: azalea, cyclamen, bromeliad, hydrangea, ficus, clivia, oleander, hippeastrum, agave, aloe, crassula, pomegranate, monstera, aspidistra, aucuba and cacti.

But indoor plants native to the humid tropics and subtropics do not tolerate open ground conditions (Saintpaulias, or Uzambara violets, peperomia, anthurium, royal begonia, philodendron, sansevieria and dieffenbachia), they only benefit from a glassed “dacha” and high humidity air.

Soil for balcony plants

Suitable for most flyers humus-rich compost soil with the addition of peat chips (10-20%) and liming material (ground egg shells). Summer plants such as sweet peas, asters, and chrysanthemums are especially sensitive to a neutral or slightly alkaline soil reaction.

Melissa, catnip, and bluebells prefer slightly alkaline soils (pH up to 7.0-7.5); azaleas, heathers, hydrangeas - acidic soils(pH 4.5-5), they are fertilized with superphosphate or potassium sulfate.

In general, the soil must have moisture permeability, for which they add river sand; be sufficiently moisture-absorbing, which is achieved by adding peat chips, and must be fresh and free from pathogens; in addition, the soil for balcony flowers must be changed annually.

It's important to remember that Earthen mixtures for indoor flowers are not suitable for balcony flowers containing too few nutrients. A three-meter balcony requires about 30 kg of soil mixture.

For summer camps, you can use peat chips from briquettes, enriched nutrients: it provides easier care, retains moisture for a long time, weighs less and is free from pathogens. For perennials grown in tubs and pots, humus lumpy soil with turf and clay additives is preferable.

Unlike annuals, which require replacing old soil with fresh soil every year, perennials are transplanted into new soil after 2-4 years, with the exception of agapanthus: they prefer to remain in lived-in old pots for as long as possible, content with adding fresh soil.

Feeding balcony plants

Taking into account the limited feeding area and the rapid depletion of the soil substrate balcony flowers need more frequent feeding compared to garden ones. Complex mineral fertilizers with microelements (manganese, boron, molybdenum) are excellent for these purposes.

Fertilizing is carried out every 7-10 days, alternating with watering, using weak solutions (2-3 g per 1 liter of water). The first feeding is carried out 4-6 weeks after planting and rooting of seedlings. Feeding continues until the end of August.

Minimal fertilizing (once every 2-3 weeks) is given to nasturtiums, gatsania, purslane, sedums, godetia and dorotheanthus: on heavily fertilized soil they form many leaves to the detriment of flowering, or even do not bloom at all; purchased soil for them is diluted by 30% river sand.

How to plant balcony flowers

It is important not to thicken the flowers when placing them in boxes: the optimal distance between seedlings of dahlias, chrysanthemums, salvia, gazania, petunia, pelargonium, asters, lantana, tuberous begonia, fuchsia and celosia is 20-30 cm; for verbena, heliotrope, balsam, godetia, Drummond phlox, violas, zinnias, daisies, mignonette, marigolds and ever-flowering begonia - 12-15 cm; for fire beans and sweet peas - 10 cm.

It is important to remove flowers immediately after flowering, preventing the formation of ovaries, unless you need to collect seeds. When the flowering of ageratum, lobelia and nemesia weakens, it is important to trim the upper part of the plant, leaving only stems 3-5 cm high: they will soon form young shoots and flower buds.

Diseases and pests of balcony plants and how to deal with them

Provided the right location is chosen and proper care is taken, balcony plants are rarely affected by disease.

Reddish or yellow leaves on the edges occurs when the soil is very waterlogged (lack of drainage) or overdrying.

Scanty flowering may indicate an excess of nitrogen in the soil, and in combination with suppressed growth and yellowing of leaves - a lack of nutrients.

Plants can be damaged by pests.

Ugly, bent shoot tips and leaves covered with sticky sap, indicate an aphid invasion that occurs in dry, warm summers. Don’t rush to the store for pesticides, but don’t put off fighting pests: they multiply at an unprecedented rate and can quickly eat your entire flower garden. Sprinkle the affected plants with infusion of garlic, nettle, or, at worst, soap or washing powder.

Sometimes the leaves are eaten by caterpillars - remove them and destroy them. A mini-garden of spice herbs and planting marigolds will help repel pests. Finally, tiny ladybug will complete the job.

In dry, warm summers, sometimes the leaves and stems become covered white powdery coating- real powdery mildew. Sprinkle the plants with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (15 g per bucket of water) or fermented infusion of fresh chopped garlic (40 g per bucket).

The most effective means of protection are, contrary to popular belief, not strong poisons that destroy pests and pathogens, but simple and generally available preventive measures that stimulate the plant to effectively defend itself.

Do not over-moisten the soil and do not thicken the plantings - your asters, marigolds, and lobelias will not get sick with blackleg and fusarium. Do not use acidified soils - get rid of rot. Every year, change the soil in the boxes with fresh soil - there will be no soil fatigue and pathogens.

Such interesting flower, like ampelous begonia, is a whole group of different varieties. They have creeping stems, as well as graceful leaves and beautiful flowers of bright colors.

The plant develops quite quickly, and the rules for caring for it at home are not very complicated. If you take into account a few simple tips, even a novice gardener can grow such a tropical beauty.

Ampelous begonia is perennial shrubby form. The stems reach several centimeters in height, after which they grow to the sides, forming a hanging bush. The leaves have different colors, mostly small. The flowers range in color from white to bright red, grow profusely and bloom for quite a long time.

It's interesting that on hanging begonia Two types of flowers grow:

• men's;
• women's

Moreover largest sizes and only the first ones have decorative value, while the female ones are small and rather modest. If the plant is experiencing an unfavorable period (for example, excess moisture, poor soil, too heat), then it drops male flowers. Therefore, the rapid death of buds and falling petals is a reason to pay attention to your pet and quickly take action.

Ampelous begonias can grow from tubers, propagate by cuttings, dividing a bush, or using seeds. Moreover, from a decorative point of view, the non-tuberous representatives of the plant are very interesting. They retain the ability to flower for all year round. But their tuberous counterparts develop according to the classic scenario: in the spring they grow rapidly, produce flowers in the summer, and then go into winter dormancy.

NOTE

When growing tuberous hanging begonia at home, it is important to take into account one important rule of care. Often, fresh shoots can appear on a tuber even in winter.

Then it is better to plant the tuber and illuminate it during the day with special plant lamps so that the total daylight hours are at least 12 hours. Such a tuber proper care It will begin to grow quickly, and in the spring it will give its lush flowers.

Varieties of ampelous begonia

There are many dozens of plant varieties, and almost all of them are of hybrid origin. That is, all these plants were specially bred by breeders and adapted to the peculiarities of our climate. In everyday life, varieties of this flower are often named by color: for example, white ampelous begonia.

Although, of course, there is a scientific classification. As a rule, breeders distinguish series, within which specific varieties are distinguished. For example, the “Chanson” series includes the following varieties:

• white;
• salmon;
• pink;
• vanilla yellow;
• copper and many others.

When breeding a specific variety, it is important to consider that propagation methods such as cuttings, growing from a tuber, or dividing a bush will give exact copy mother plant. But propagation by seeds does not guarantee 100% similarity with the parent.

Ampelous begonia in apartment design

In spring summer period housewives love to decorate their balconies, terraces with such plants, country houses. To do this, you just need to hang the pot on a reliable thread or chain (for example, as in the photo). Of course, even one pot of begonia looks very nice - it enlivens the space and evokes pleasant associations.

Although, if desired, nothing prevents you from turning the balcony of an ordinary city apartment into a real flower garden. For this, of course, you can use other plants.

It is always worth keeping in mind that the plant really loves sufficiently lit, warm places. Therefore, it is better to place the hanging begonia in plain sight. And besides, it's very beautiful.

And the plant also looks very beautiful if you hang pots in whole series at equal distances. Then you get a kind of flower garland, which is guaranteed to turn the balcony into your favorite vacation spot.

By the way, for the peculiar appearance Ampelous begonia is also called cascade. From a botanical point of view, these are the same thing (i.e., the rules for planting and care at home are the same).

You can discover some ideas for decorating your home with hanging begonias.

Caring for begonia is not very difficult, but it is always worth remembering one thing important nuance. This plant originally came to us from tropical latitudes. This means that it especially needs a sufficient level of moisture, lighting and loves warmth.

Among the basic rules for growing hanging begonia are the following:

1. First of all, you need to try to place the pots in a place where there is no constant direct sunlight. For example, it is good if the sun hits the plant before lunch and after 15-16 hours (southeast, southwest). And if this is not possible, you can simply place the begonia in the light shade of other plants or behind tulle. During the summer heat during the day, it is better to remove the pot away from direct sunlight.
2. Watering is done only with settled water. Moreover, in the case of tuberous plants, it is better not to get water on the tuber itself. And of course, water should not get on flowers and foliage. You can water either along the edge of the pot or pour water into the pan. The frequency of watering is determined by the condition of the soil: its surface should be barely moist. And when drying, you need to pour a fresh portion of water (in the summer 3 times a week, in the winter - less often).
3. The plant normally withstands temperatures from +15 o C to +27 o C. However, the optimum is in the range of +18 o C... +20 o C. Frosts below +13 o C are undesirable. However, overheating can also negatively affect the condition of the flowers.
4. Another rule for caring for hanging begonias at home is to constantly maintain humidity in the air (especially in the summer). You can simply spray the air, trying not to get it on the foliage and flowers. During hot periods, it is advisable to add water to the pan so that it evaporates and provides additional moisture. If possible, you can also place a saucer of water next to the pot.
5. Soil is purchased specifically for begonias (or soil for violets is quite suitable). Or you can compose it yourself: take equal amounts of leaf soil, humus and coarse sand. You can also take equal amounts of compost, peat and coarse sand, adding to them twice as much (in relation to one component) of ordinary garden soil. Just before planting hanging begonias, you need to take into account the golden rule of caring for almost all plants at home: the soil should be thoroughly loosened. It’s a good idea to add perlite to it - then the earth will retain porosity, and the roots will always receive sufficient quantity oxygen.
6. Also, when caring for ampelous begonia, you should pay attention to feeding. There is no need to give fertilizers too often, and their concentration should be 1.5-2 times less than indicated in the instructions. The fact is that the plant does not like salty soil. In the spring, as well as during flowering, they provide potassium and phosphorus. It is permissible to use a complex mixture monthly mineral fertilizer. In winter, the plant is usually not fed (except during flowering). As for organic fertilizers, they can be given once or twice a year.
7. You should periodically examine your pet begonia, because its appearance speaks volumes about its state of health. Dry leaves and flower stalks must be removed after flowering. There is one more important rule for caring for ampelous begonia at home. Both during planting and during the rest of the period, make sure that there are no traces of pests on the foliage (mites, aphids, fungi). This is discussed in more detail below.
8. Pruning the ampelous begonia is done with a sharp knife (if you use scissors, they can damage the fibers of the stem). Moreover, you should not cut the plant too short: on each branch it is better to leave at least 3 internodes, from which new leaves will grow. Fresh cuts are sprinkled with wood ash.
9. Another important rule: you should periodically new landing ampelous begonia into a larger pot (5 cm larger than the diameter of the previous one). The flower is growing well. And if the stems become deformed and elongated, and the flowers fade and quickly fall off, the reason is most likely due to cramped conditions. Otherwise, it may be due to poor soil or poor watering.
10. In winter, caring for the plant is approximately the same, but watering is reduced, and fertilizers may not be given. In addition, it is important to take care of a sufficiently warm (room temperature) and well-lit place. In most cases for indoor plant In winter you will need additional lighting. The total duration of daylight is at least 12 hours). If the balcony is well insulated and has actually turned into an ordinary room, then the flower can be left there too. However, when opening the window, you need to take it home: begonia really does not like cold winds and drafts in general.

WHY DO BEGONIA HAVE NON-DOUBLE FLOWERS?

Large male flowers with double edges give special beauty to ampelous begonia. If they appear quite rarely, this indicates that caring for the plant is not entirely correct. The most likely version is frost and lack of moisture. As soon as conditions return to normal, the plant will certainly delight you with new flowers.

Methods for propagating ampelous begonia

Tuberous plants are almost always propagated from the tubers themselves. In general, begonia can grow from cuttings or seeds. A new plant can also be obtained by simply dividing the bush.

Cuttings

The simplest and most popular method of propagating coral begonia is by cuttings. It should immediately be noted that in the summer, in the heat, it is not recommended to propagate the plant.

The step-by-step instructions are very simple:

1. Cut off a healthy-looking medium-sized leaf (the cut is made at an angle of 45°).
2. Place the leaf in a glass of water, or a small vase, or jar. The main thing is that the stem of the leaf should not touch the bottom - this could cause it to rot.
3. Place in a dark and fairly warm place (from +23 o C).
4. A couple of weeks later, after the roots appear, you can plant the plant in a pot. At the same time, you don’t need to take a pot that is too large, otherwise all the plant’s strength will go into growth, and it will produce few flowers.
5. How to plant a cutting: pour soil into a pot, make a small depression, plant a begonia cutting with roots. All that remains is to lightly press it with your fingers and pour it over.

NOTE

After replanting, sprinkle the area around the stem with a pinch of wood ash. It is better to cut off a third of the leaf - then the plant will evaporate less moisture and begin to grow faster.

Growing from seeds

This method is less popular because it requires more attention and care. It is better to purchase seed material in a specialized store. They sell seeds in 2 forms:

1. Regular (unprocessed).
2. Granulated (in the form of dragees) - they are easier to work with.

Regardless of the type of material, the planting technology is the same (planted at the very beginning of spring):

1. The seeds are pre-treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 30-45 minutes.
2. They are then washed and planted in a pre-moistened peat tablet.
3. Each tablet is placed on a tray, which is covered with polyethylene or glass.
4. Then water is constantly added to the tray so that the surface of the tablet is always moderately moist. The room temperature is at least 20-22 o C.
5. Normally, the first shoots appear after 2-3 weeks. After the formation of the third leaf, a pick is made.
6. They dive again 8 weeks after emergence. At the same time, the sprouts are planted in pots.

Reproduction of begonia by dividing the bush

The technology of propagation by dividing the bush is the same for almost all types of begonias.

Growing from tubers

There is a whole group of begonias that are called tuberous. They can be either ampelous (with a creeping stem) or with straight, rather tall shoots. The plant develops from a tuber that is about 3 cm in diameter. In this case, only healthy tubers, without external defects, should be immediately selected. And it is better not to use too large specimens (5 cm or more). If the bulb is dry, it is also discarded.

If we talk about how and when to plant tuberous begonia in a pot, optimal time should be considered mid-February or early March.

The technology for planting and caring for tubers at home is simple. However, you need to take into account several details at once, since there are no trifles in such a matter:

1. A layer of drainage must be poured onto the bottom of the dish - this general rule for all types of begonias. The layer consists of broken bricks, pebbles, small gravel stones (can be in any ratio), height - up to 3 cm.
2. Next, the previously prepared soil is filled in. It can be immediately treated with a fungicide or a weak solution of potassium permanganate (1% concentration).
3. Then the earth should dry out - preferably within 2-3 days.
4. After this, the tubers are planted with the convex side down (the concave side will “look” at the ceiling). Often, roots already appear on the tuber - you need to be careful with them.
5. Now you need to water regularly to keep the soil moist enough. At the same time, there is no need to allow excess water. In addition, the stream should not fall directly on the tuber - water along the edges of the container.

Thus, subject to these simple rules There should not be any particular difficulties with how to plant tubers of ampelous begonia in a pot.

Diseases and pests

Diseases of ampelous begonia are mainly associated with incorrect conditions contents and infectious pathogens. These include, in particular:

external sign	cause	solution
the leaves dry out at the edges and begin to curl	dry and hot air	move to a cooler place, periodically humidify the air
leaves fall off or turn yellow and droop	too cold	move to a warmer place
the foliage has drooped	polluted air or lack of moisture	take the pot to another room, water it thoroughly (if the soil is dry)
leaves grow small, flowers do not form or bloom rarely	lack of fertilizer	fertilize the soil using organic or mineral fertilizers
leaves fade, cobwebs are found	spider mite activity	use an insecticide or infusion onions(more details below)
powdery coating with greenish and brown tints	activity of gray mold fungus	spray with fungicide (benomyl) according to instructions and remove the pot to a dry, cooler place
white spots of powdery consistency	activity of powdery mildew fungus
the roots turn black and rot	black root rot fungus activity	stop watering, spray with fungicide, remove to a drier place
rot on the surface of leaves and flowers	waterlogging	reduce watering, do not allow moisture to get on the begonia itself when spraying
leaves are deformed, yellow spots appear on the surface	activity of cucumber mosaic virus	destroy the flower, disinfect the pot, replace the soil
the leaves have lost color, sagging is visible on the roots	nematode activity

As for begonia pests, the most dangerous are:

1. The spider mite is a round-shaped insect, bright red in color, less than 1 mm long. They look like numerous bright dots on the surface of leaves and stems. Leaves cobwebs throughout the plant.
2. Aphids have different colors (green, gray, brown), the body shape is round, 2-3 mm long. They look like numerous gray dots.

They need to be dealt with immediately after detection. For this purpose, special insecticides are used, which can be purchased at a specialty store:

• thiophos;
• karbofos;
• actellik;
• neoron;
• fitoverm;
• fufanon.

They act exactly according to the instructions. You can also use home remedy based on regular onions (with brown peel):

1. The onion is chopped very finely or passed through a meat grinder.
2. Take a full teaspoon (half a tablespoon) and leave for 1 week in a liter of water.
3. Strain and spray the foliage and stems until the insects are completely destroyed.

PREVENTION ADVICE

The foliage and especially the stems of the plant hidden under the bush must be carefully inspected for the presence of these pests and other lesions. The sooner you start fighting them, the higher the chances of success.

Ampelous begonia is really very beautiful plant, and the rules for planting and caring for it at home are really simple. And the result is literally bright, beautiful and fragrant.