Wood has wide application in residential construction as the main material for walls, ceilings and floors. In our country, log huts were widespread everywhere.

The log was replaced by new material– profiled timber. It is more convenient and technologically advanced to use. Finishing the interior space of a house made of timber is done at the request of its owner and is not mandatory.

The wood itself has excellent texture and unique properties in the field of decoration. The timber undergoes preliminary and finishing processing using industrial equipment.

After grinding and applying special primers and varnishes, the surface of the material does not need any decorative coatings. However, this does not mean that such houses cannot be decorated to your liking.

A completely logical question arises: how to decorate the inside of a timber house, and what material is better to use? The answer to this question is both simple and difficult. The reason for this is that in such houses you can use almost any finishing technology.

The difficulty lies in the fact that it is necessary to ensure reliable insulation of the wood from moisture. Based on this, the use of methods involving the application of plaster or putty is not recommended.

Selection of finishing material

The cross-section of a profiled beam is an almost perfect square, the opposite sides of which are flat, and on the mating surfaces there is a groove on one edge and a ridge on the other.

These elements are necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints. The right corners of the squares are beveled along the entire length of the beam. The connection of parts of the same row in the corners of the building is made using special inserts.

The smooth sides of the timber, after their qualified laying, form an almost ideal plane. She doesn't need any preliminary preparation and alignment. So, for example, lining, plastic sheets, MDF panels and drywall can be screwed directly to the beam without a special frame.

Practice shows that even unskilled workers, which, in fact, are the vast majority of homeowners, can do all the work themselves. The interior space of the house is formed by three planes: floor, walls and ceiling.

The finishing of each of these surfaces has its own characteristics. A simple observation shows that it is the lower plane that deserves special attention.

Floor finishing

The location of this surface is such that it requires additional hydro- and thermal insulation. The construction of a house made of timber provides for the presence of a strength set, on which a subfloor made of boards or OSB plywood is laid. Another load-bearing structure is made on this surface and a decorative layer is laid. flooring.

In its expanded form, the work program looks like this:

1. We lay it on the surface of the subfloor waterproofing material. This can be: both roofing material and a film polymer membrane;
2. We install a power set from timber rectangular section 50×100 mm, mounted on edge. This design has different device depending on what is intended as the finishing coating. Under a regular board, the timber is installed in parallel in increments of 500 mm, and under plywood - in squares with a side of no more than 500-600 mm;
3. Particular attention should be paid to attaching the power set to the floor; it must be sufficiently reliable and completely eliminate the possibility of even minimal movement of the elements. The best means to achieve this goal are self-tapping screws of the appropriate size;
4. IN free space we lay insulation: polystyrene foam, mineral fiber mats or rolled glass wool;

1. Cover with another layer of steam-hydrobarrier made of a film membrane;
2. We produce the finishing flooring from a pre-selected material.

Helpful advice: in a house made of natural wood, the best look is a floor made of planks, laid with your own hands and covered with varnish. When laying such a covering, it becomes necessary to create tight contact between the individual floorboards. This can be achieved by using wedge technology.

Ceiling finishing

This surface in timber houses is formed by supporting floor beams and a boardwalk between them. Finishing timber house interior work on ceilings mainly comes down to sanding them and opening them with special primers and varnishes.

In the bathroom or kitchen, air humidity is high, and the wood of the floors needs additional protection. The best way film will cope with this task dropped ceilings from PVC.

The selection of texture and color is determined by the overall design style of this room. The choice of films for ceilings is huge and allows you to harmoniously fit them into almost any interior.

Advice! Before installing such a ceiling, you should perform waterproofing installation work. The best membrane is made from polymer material. It is fixed to the ceiling using slats and screws.

This will prevent condensation from forming on the wooden surface. The price of this operation is relatively low, but the protection is reliable.

Wall decoration in a house made of profiled timber

Considering decorative properties this material, you can generally leave everything as is, after careful sanding and opening with a protective varnish. However, in some rooms with high humidity, ceramic tiles on the walls will not look out of place.

It cannot be laid on wood, so you must first create a base for it. For these purposes, moisture-resistant plasterboard is suitable, which can be attached directly to a beam or to a supporting structure made of a steel profile.

Exists detailed instructions on working with this material, repetition of which is inappropriate within the framework of this article. The second finishing option with a frame looks more preferable because it will allow you to conceal utility lines.

conclusions

How best to do this is described in sufficient detail above. The video in this article will help to clearly demonstrate the processes described, which will allow you to get a complete understanding of them.

Having finished building a house from timber, it is too early to relax. The final stage is finishing work inside the premises to give the house cozy atmosphere. You can see the options for interior decoration of a house made of timber in the photos provided.

Interior finishing works

Work on finishing the inside of a timber house includes several stages, which include:

• carrying out communications (electricity, pipelines for water, heating and sewerage);
• treating wood with impregnating antiseptics and fire resistance compounds;
• heat and waterproofing of the house;
• preparatory work for finishing walls, ceilings and floors;
• installation of interior doors;
• final work on walls, ceilings and floors.

Without work experience and sufficient knowledge of repairs, it is advisable to hire workers to get the job done well, but you will have to spend more money on it than planned. This is especially true for communications.

An example of interior decoration of a wooden house

Before you begin decorating the interior of the room, you need to create a thoughtful design down to the smallest detail. This will help you clearly see what you need to strive for and calculate the required amount of materials and their cost.

Features of interior finishing work in timber houses

Interior decoration home is to use the same materials that are used in other homes. But wooden houses have two important features, which must be taken into account before starting finishing work:

• The primary shrinkage of houses made of timber is significantly higher than that of others. It may take two to six years after construction is completed before it ends;
• secondary shrinkage. It is not particularly noticeable (less than 1% of the floor height).

Primary shrinkage is affected by the drying of the timber and a slight decrease in its volume. There is a decrease in the gaps between the bars, which is constantly affected by effective load. As a result, after shrinkage is completed, the floor height decreases by 2-3 cm. Significant deformation can have a negative impact on finishing works ah (appearance of cracks different sizes in plaster, tiles falling off in places).

Sectional laminated veneer lumber

Glued laminated timber will help resolve the issue over time. In this case, the shrinkage of the house will stop a year after completion of construction.

Secondary shrinkage is affected by fluctuations in temperature and humidity of wood. It should not have a negative impact on facing coatings.

Materials for finishing the interior of a timber house

There are several options for interior finishing of a house made of glued or profiled timber for the first time after construction.

Floor installation

Before laying the floor covering, it is necessary to raise the subfloor with the insulation embedded in it and waterproofing layer and covered with boards. This floor design is quite simple, retains heat well and protects against noise.

Materials for clean flooring are:

• Planed tongue and groove board. She is pure ecological material, which breathes and has excellent resistance to moisture. The board is strong, durable and easy to maintain. Has many processing and tinting options. Renews well by scraping or regular sanding. This type of flooring is not suitable for underfloor heating, because Most of the heat will be spent on heating the sheet pile itself.

• Parquet board or laminate. The material is suitable for underfloor heating systems. When choosing a coating that has good thermal conductivity, you need to pay attention to the one that is marked with the appropriate marking.

IN wooden house better to make a wooden floor

Wall decoration

Before finishing the walls in a house made of timber, you need to treat them with an antiseptic.

Treated wood. Wood itself can be a wonderful finishing material. In the case when the surface interior walls does not have any shortcomings, then they can be left as is, without finishing anything. It is only necessary to saturate the wood with a special composition to obtain the desired shade.

Painting the walls will not only preserve the natural wood structure, but will also additional protection for wood. It is necessary to choose the following for interior walls: paint coatings, which contain the lowest amount of harmful substances.

Plaster. It is necessary to decorate the walls with it only after a year has passed after the construction of the house. It is important here to pay special attention to the waterproofing of wood surfaces.

Block house or clapboard. When the external appearance of the walls does not look particularly attractive, but you want to preserve the special design that it has wooden surface, such materials are used. This finishing is applicable only after the house has settled. For installation, a frame is created that will slightly reduce the area of ​​the room.

Wall panels. They are made from wood without adding glue. The material is environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. They have good thermal insulation characteristics, easy installation and absorb sound very well. Panels on top cover vinyl wallpaper or linen fabric.

Drywall. For this type of finishing, after applying putty, wallpaper is glued, painted and tiles are laid. For rooms where there is high humidity, it is necessary to choose moisture-resistant plasterboard. Its leaves have a greenish tint.

The material is environmentally friendly and lightweight. Its installation is carried out by fastening it to a metal or wooden frame. This design prevents contact between timber and drywall, which preserves load-bearing walls and casing from the formation of cracks. Behind it you can conduct electrical wiring, plumbing and other communications, which will be conveniently hidden. If necessary, it is convenient to lay down an insulating layer.

You can leave the wooden walls just wooden

Ceiling finishing

Often, when decorating a log house, the beams on the ceiling are not closed inside, but serve as an element of the interior. An unlined ceiling will fit harmoniously into different styles(Provence, country). Until 5-6 years have passed for the house to finish shrinking, a wonderful material is plasterboard or suspended ceiling. It will perfectly cover the ceiling hole without interfering with the shrinkage of the house.

During the shrinkage of the house, a redistribution of forces occurs in the beams on the ceiling. Only after its completion will it be possible to finish the ceiling in the usual ways, such as plaster.

It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the interior decoration of the premises, which consists of a number of activities. Do not forget about the significant shrinkage of the house and the sensitivity of wood to moisture.

Video with an example of finishing the interior of a timber house

It is important to start finishing work correctly, otherwise all violations and deviations from technology will be revealed later. Correcting such errors is often more expensive than doing the whole job over again. We recommend that you watch the video; perhaps you need a similar finishing option.

Wondering how to decorate the walls of a log house, the owners, despite limited budgets, dream of seeing their own building presentable and expensive. This can be implemented and available methods, using inexpensive finishing raw materials for these purposes. Which one is described below.

Review of inexpensive material for interior decoration of a log house

Raw materials will be examined in detail from the point of view not of cost, but of the complexity of the installation process. After all, it will not be easy for home-grown builders who have not made a career in the field of repairs to navigate multifaceted actions. So:

• Drywall. A popular coating for any kind of decor - the raw materials alone are not at all presentable. It not only levels the walls, but also insulation and communications can be laid under it.

After installing it and grouting the joints, the interior decoration of the walls of a house made of timber will fit perfectly flat surface so that the process will not be difficult even for non-professionals - there will be no need to adjust the decor due to the curvature.

Drywall is available in several options - from simple to fire-resistant. For a wooden structure, a predominantly moisture-resistant option is purchased. The price is completely reasonable and large areas sheets will allow you to complete the finishing in a matter of days.

Wallpaper is glued onto the drywall, plaster is applied, and it is painted. It can be a base for laying stone, ceramic tiles and other things.

• Wall plastic panels. An indispensable coating in aggressive rooms such as a bath or kitchen - moisture does not come into contact with them and does not affect the structure. As for the decorative part, such panels successfully imitate stone, wood, and brick.

A variety of fantasy patterns will help you create pictures that are not related to natural patterns. Installation is not difficult - all panels are equipped locking connections tongue and groove, length allows to close standard walls 2.5 m from floor to ceiling. Wires or thin water pipes can also be laid under the covering.

It is unpretentious to wet cleaning. The cost makes it possible to decorate large areas with such material. The disadvantage will be the lack of environmental friendliness. In addition, in the event of a fire, they are capable of releasing caustic gases that are harmful to humans.

• Plaster. Some styles of wooden houses require simple plastered walls - wooden hut, chalet, modern. Therefore, such wall decoration in a timber house does not lose popularity, although it is labor-intensive to execute.

This is associated, first of all, with the difficulty of accepting wet wood cement composition. Therefore, before base layer will be exposed, several stages are completed - leveling the walls using moisture-resistant plasterboard and laying reinforcing mesh. The plaster itself is applied in several stages - base, leveling, decorative layer, which is made smooth or textured with the help of tools.

During the process, you need to use a level and beacons - this will make the coating perfect. The disadvantage of plastering in a wooden house is the fact that when it shrinks, it cracks, and the walls will have to be constantly renewed.

• Plywood and veneer. Despite the natural origin of the components of these materials, they do not have ecology. This fact is associated with the large amount of glue used for mating sheets or pasting the walls themselves.

However, the decor made from such raw materials is of a high standard - it does not have to be constantly painted or varnished - it is enough to carry out the procedure once every few years. Decorating the walls of a house made of timber using such raw materials will visually create the effect of an expensive mansion where valuable types of wood were used.

• Paint and varnish products. Decorate own house inside it is possible without the use of any coatings. These are well-known varnishes and coating products based on water emulsion.

Some of them may even contain protective components - they will have a beneficial effect on the wood. Such raw materials are suitable for interior finishing when owners do not want to lose the natural beauty of wood. So:

1. Glazing compounds. They do not hide the natural pattern and penetrate deeply into the structure. Give rooms a matte or glossy effect.
2. Lucky. When dry, they form a polymer film, making the wood shine in the light. However, the disadvantage of this treatment is that it does not allow natural raw materials to breathe and cracks when shrinking.
3. Coating compositions. They reliably protect the timber; they can contain pigments or be without them, giving it gloss. Colored paints are popular with owners whose home is made of simple sanded or planed raw materials.

When using paint and varnish products for a house made of timber, finishing the walls from the inside will generally not be difficult for the owners - you just need to purchase the appropriate tool, a material labeled as eco-friendly and study the algorithm for applying layers.

You can make your home bright and presentable without expensive coatings. To existing products construction industry All you have to do is apply your own imagination, and the premises will become individual without investing significant capital.

The next stage of work after building a house made of timber will be finishing its walls from the inside. This is relatively easy to do if you have done everything yourself before. If difficulties arise at any stage, you can find necessary information or transfer some of the wall processing functions to professional repairmen.

If you still plan to work on your own, you need to remember about the shrinkage of the walls. Internal repairs in houses made of timber can most often be carried out only after 5-6 years from the moment the structure is completely ready. After all, shrinkage wooden structures occurs constantly, which means that the height of the structure gradually decreases over the years.

The procedure for carrying out work on the interior finishing of houses made of timber

Of course, depending on the selected materials and the repair plan, the work scheme may change, but there are several general rules:

• in many cases it is most convenient to start with laying the floor, where internal communications can easily be hidden; the floor covering can be either temporary or permanent, but must be well insulated;
• Next, the profiled or laminated timber is processed: sealing the walls from cracks, treating with antiseptics, if necessary – puttying, sanding and polishing the wooden parts of the house from the inside;
• on final stage are taken as the ceiling, which must also be well insulated.

Experience shows that, having minimal knowledge in construction, but working carefully and carefully, you can carry out high-quality repairs walls of a wooden house made of solid or laminated timber.

Types of interior decoration

The interior decoration of a log house should fit into the overall style of the building. Ideally, if you use wooden carriage boards inside or process directly profiled or laminated timber decorative materials. In the latter case, with professional laying of logs, you will get an excellent result that will delight you and make a pleasant impression on your guests.

If you want to cover the walls and carry out repairs cheaper, take a closer look at modern and inexpensive building materials: plasterboard, plastic panels or plaster. They look no less advantageous, creating their own unique cozy style, which will appeal to many. It often happens that the walls wooden houses the inside is finished as an apartment, and the latter, on the contrary, are decorated with imitation timber.

Decorative processing of timber

The only requirement before performing such repair work– high-quality thermal and waterproofing of a house made of timber. After all, later you won’t be able to change anything and will have to completely change the design style or redo everything in a new way. In any case, don't forget that wooden logs need to be sanded to make them as attractive as possible appearance.

If you decide to sheathe timber house In this way, you can begin repairs almost immediately after the construction of the building. There is no need to wait for shrinkage, because it has virtually no effect on the final result.

Depending on the method of laying wooden logs (in a paw or in a bowl), you should choose the appropriate option for interior finishing: varnishing or painting. Each of them will preserve the natural structure of the timber and allow it to “breathe”.

Where to hide communications and how to decorate the ceiling

Please note that when decorating walls using the described method, you will have to hide communications under the floor or in the corners of the rooms. To give open elements aesthetically pleasing use board cladding, then paint or varnish them, depending on the main method of arranging the walls of the house.

Also remember that in this case the ceiling will look better if you decorate it natural wood, for example, a carriage plank.

The main advantage of the described method when processing natural logs is the preservation of the natural, natural internal structure of the room after painting or varnishing. In addition, this is a significant saving of time, effort and money.

The only thing you will have to come to terms with is the need to periodically (every 3-5 years) repeat the repair again, because due to shrinkage and drying out, the wooden walls become slightly curved. But, you must admit that varnishing or painting is a fairly quick process that can be easily completed in a few days.

Using a carriage plank

This material is not only relatively affordable and reliable, but also universal: it is used to decorate both walls and ceilings with floors. Please note that you will need to make a lathing to ensure that the carriage board lays flat. In addition, most of the internal communications can easily be hidden in the resulting space, and insulation can also be placed here.

There are three types of lining on sale:

• “regular” – the most affordable, but also the least quality;
• universal - more expensive, but reliability and durability are an order of magnitude higher than in the first case;
• Block house - maximum quality and the best technical specifications; one side of it imitates a wooden frame.
• imitation timber – finishing material, which is used for cladding, including timber houses, to preserve the natural appearance of the structure after insulating the walls. In addition, if over time the wooden walls have been lost original appearance and require restoration work, then finishing them with imitation timber will allow the room to return to its original appearance in a less expensive and labor-intensive way.

Remember that each of the described types of lining needs to be treated with antiseptic agents before painting or varnishing in order to preserve its best properties for as long as possible.

The advantages of the carriage board include perfect combination with natural wooden beam, giving the room a more aesthetic appearance, ease of covering communications, reliable wall insulation and ease of installation. The “fly in the ointment” is the high susceptibility to fire, the need for additional processing and a significant amount for the purchase of materials for sheathing, antiseptics, etc.

Interior finishing of a log house with plasterboard

If you decide to take a closer look at modern building materials for repairs, drywall is one of the best options. When using it, you can decorate the floor parquet board or its imitation, and the ceiling, for example, with hanging plastic panels.

The main advantage of drywall is its versatility, the ability to assemble structures of any shape and size. In addition, it is easy to work with; almost any owner of a log house can handle it, even without construction experience. Plus, it’s relatively inexpensive and allows you to hide the communication wiring.

There is only one minus - necessity additional processing: putty, wallpaper, etc. But after this you will get an almost perfectly flat surface!

Plastic panels and plaster

Laying process plastic panels similar to working with drywall and carriage boards, but the choice color shades material (which will no longer require any processing) is very wide. Also here you will need a sheathing to help easily hide internal communications.

Plaster is probably the simplest way to decorate the walls of a log house. At the same time, they turn out smooth and can be painted in a color that you like and matches the interior.

Which of the described methods interior renovation If you haven’t chosen a house made of profiled or laminated timber, you need to remember general style and building design. Of course, natural wooden decorated logs look presentable, but they are quite expensive. If you want to save money, choose one of the many modern materials, which are easy to find at most hardware stores.

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called laminated veneer lumber. The construction material really very beautiful and comfortable. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried and impregnated protective compounds wood

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set, by the way step-by-step instruction included with such sets. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality house without large cracks or distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. And an ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, only looks good on an advertising stand in a store; as soon as you build it into the desired environmentally friendly housing, its appearance is unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And here the warm finishing of the façade of a log house comes to the rescue.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the overall shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” various kinds protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with a simple, even beam, which at the time of construction has natural moisture. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the start of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting it after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house sit for at least a year and a half, and preferably 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By by and large To decorate a log house, all the same materials are used that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How can you get rid of timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases stone finishing wooden buildings from the outside it is limited only by the plinth. Plus, natural stone has a solid mass and requires the construction of an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as interior decoration, although in the case of wooden clapboard Such processing can also be carried out externally.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for internal lining services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. And here protective treatment in this case it is mandatory, and there is no need to save on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations with comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids are folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnations have dried, wooden wall a vapor barrier membrane is attached. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses most often the lathing is made from metal UD and CD profiles, but for wooden walls it is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered the thicker and stronger finishing, the wider you can take the step, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the sheathing in increments of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is diagonal laying lining, it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although I don’t advise you to undertake diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• Mineral wool is usually used as insulation for wooden structures. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Now is the time high quality for basalt cotton slabs;
• Thickness of cotton insulation for middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally, the further north the region is, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding is attached. For lining I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for wood varnishing

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the regular one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes it is necessary to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course of high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather well. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on a monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I believe that in this particular case, ordinary PSB-S25 foam is more suitable, the effect is the same, and such foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy 50mm thick foam boards.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the bottom cut, the logs are packed cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this; they used to impregnate railway sleepers with it. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into the lower part of the groove of the board.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the FK brand with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using it to create a base on the floor. chipboard sheets, at the slightest moisture they will swell and begin to peel off.

If a wooden house is built on a concrete slab, then there is less work. You need to lay overlapping concrete on the walls. plastic film. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technologies described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in interfloor covering you definitely need to install some kind of sound insulator; the cheapest option is to take foam plastic, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it's fashionable to leave them open load-bearing beams on the ceiling. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coat second floor.

There are, of course, more multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard and suspended ceiling. But installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience and stretch ceiling This is a rather expensive thing and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only large sizes. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And do not forget that electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be inserted into a metal hose. Nowadays, corrugated materials are sold for these purposes. plastic tubes, they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and are cheaper than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular method of interior finishing of a log house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on traditional metal carcass, and on wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the spacing of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now get divorced finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often inside a log house or in the basement area, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously reinforced wooden base layered cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

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