1. Why do you need a sharpener?
2. How to sharpen a knife?
3. Sharpening profiles
4. Touchstone
5. Knife sharpening devices
6. Knife sharpening machine
7. Not just knives...

Interest in how to make a knife sharpener with your own hands arises for a reason. Consumer qualities hand cutting tools are improved through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening. At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience. To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

Why do you need a sharpener?

A living relic of our days is the Finnish hunting knife. Not a gangster Finnish knife, sometimes of a bizarre shape, but a Finnish-type hunting knife, on the left in the figure. Traditional hunting knives (center and left) are similar in shape, but the difference between them is very large.

The blade of a Finnish knife is forged from cast iron, which can be smelted right in your yard from swamp ore in a furnace-furnace, without resorting to the blast furnace process, puddling, and other methods of converting cast iron into iron and steel. The viscosity of crinkly iron is excellent; it is very difficult to break a blade made from it. But the hardness is also low, somewhere around HRS55, the knife becomes dull quite quickly. The Finnish hunters did not care about this: a blade of such hardness can be pointed (sharpened) by beating at many natural stones, and there were always enough smoothed moraine boulders in Fennoscandia.

They sharpen a knife by beating it in much the same way as beating a scythe, only the whetstone is motionless and the blade is moved. First, they pull it along the whetstone with the butt away from you, then they turn it over and pull it with the butt towards you. Position cutting edge(RK) always dragging on a whetstone; quick movements: shirk-shirk! During each movement, you need to keep the contact patch of the blade with the touchstone (see below), but the requirements for maintaining the angle of inclination are not so strict. Learning to sharpen a knife by beating is not very difficult, and with some skill you can create a smoothly running profile on the blade, see below. However, the Finnish knife is, in general, a dead end in the evolution of a cutting tool, surviving in special natural conditions.

A good knife has never been cheap, but extreme situation the durability of the blade, combined with the viscosity of the blade, became vital factors. Therefore, even in ancient times, they learned to harden knife blades from the surface and cement them: the core remained viscous, not brittle, and a hard, red-hot crust formed on the outside, see next. rice.:

It is still possible to sharpen a knife with a cemented blade, but you need a skill that is not given to everyone. And the abrasive is already needed from a special type of stone - lithographic grunstein slate. There is little of it in nature; Grünstein is still considered a strategic raw material. There is no artificial grenstein and it is not expected. It’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a cemented knife with inept beating - a little somewhere the cementation bark will be stripped down to raw metal (this is not visible to the eye), the knife will only have to be thrown away, the blade will immediately become dull and begin to crumble.

Note: If you have an old scythe whetstone of a slightly greenish color lying around somewhere, don’t throw it away, it’s a valuable rarity.

Service knives do not require the same durability and toughness as hunting and hiking knives, and they should cost much less. As a result, special steels and powder metallurgy are widely used in the production of utility knives. The blade of an “eternal” kitchen knife is structured like a rodent’s incisor: in longitudinal layers, the hardness of which decreases from the core outward. In any case, you have to sharpen the knife less often, but chipping is definitely ruled out - the blade immediately becomes discolored.

How to sharpen a knife?

For these reasons, push-pull sharpening technology (push-pull sharpening or push-pull sharpening technique) was invented long ago:

1. The blade is pushed along the touchstone away from you with a twist, holding the butt towards you, the position of the RK is advancing (scraping);
2. Then, without lifting the blade from the whetstone, they pull it with the butt towards you, turning it reverse side, the position of the Republic of Kazakhstan is dragging;
3. The blade is turned over and repeat steps. 1 and 2;
4. pp. 1-3 are repeated, reducing the pressure in each cycle, until the burr formed on the RA disappears (does not stick together).

Note: when they say or write “the hangnail will go away,” etc., this is incorrect. Metalheads have a slang word for it: "zausavka"; for electricians - “switch off”. But in Russian, a burr and a switch are masculine.

Push-pull sharpening protects the blade, but requires high skill from the operator, because During the sharpening process, a number of conditions must be continuously and precisely observed, see also fig. below:

• Maintain the angle of inclination of the blade to the whetstone, smoothly changing it in accordance with the curvature of the wheel.
• Make sure that the tangent to the generatrix of the blade and the transverse axis of the contact spot of the wheel with the touchstone coincide.
• Also ensure that the axis of the contact patch is always perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the touchstone.
• Smoothly change the pressure on the blade as the area of ​​the contact patch changes.

Meet all these conditions simultaneously, completely symmetrically on a straight line and reverse It is very difficult to sharpen a blade against a whetstone, and a modern knife, as mentioned above, can be damaged by improper sharpening. Any household device for sharpening knives is designed to relieve the sharpener from continuous monitoring of at least part of these conditions.

Note: For successful push-pull sharpening, the length of the whetstone (see below) must be at least 2 times the length of the knife blade from the handle to the tip.

Sharpening profiles

The profile of a knife blade is linked to the properties of the material and the structure of the blade, as well as to the properties of the materials for which the tool is intended to process. Sharpening with a simple blunt wedge (item 1 in the figure) gives a stable but rough blade: the cutting resistance is high, and the knife tears quite viscous materials. A sharp wedge (item 2) quickly dulls or chips; on viscous and/or fibrous materials, the cutting resistance may be greater than with a blunt wedge due to the friction of what is being cut against the blade.

Ideal in all respects is the ogival (smoothly sloping) profile, pos. 3. Experts are still arguing which generator is better - an involute, a hyperbola or an exponential. But one thing is certain - making an ogival blade in production conditions is difficult and expensive, and it is impossible to direct it yourself. Therefore, ogival sharpened knives are used only in special equipment, e.g. microtomes - biological devices for obtaining the thinnest tissue sections.

For disposable blades, e.g. safety razor blades, faceted sharpening is used, pos. 4, i.e. The ogive generatrix, as mathematicians say, is approximated by straight segments. The number of sharpening edges is indicated in the certificate or on the manufacturer’s website. For thick, rough stubble would be better suited 3-4-sided; for delicate hair not on the face - 8-sided. The 6-sided one is considered universal.

Corner?

The sharpening angle is always given in half value?, because... Many tools and, for example, bayonet knives are sharpened on one side. Angle for knives for various purposes? maintained in the following. within:

L.M.

The use of a manual knife sharpener such as Lansky-Metabo, pos. 1 in Fig. The diagram of its device is given in pos. 2, and the procedure for use is in pos. 3. The disadvantage of the Lansky-Metabo sharpener is the instability of the sharpening angle along the length of the blade: a rod with a touchstone is driven along it. The offset of the touch point is constantly changing, because it describes an arc of a circle, and the blade has a different configuration. Resp. The angle also “floats”. Therefore, the Lansky-Metabo sharpener is used primarily for sharpening camp and hunting knives with a relatively short blade.

However, this disadvantage can be turned into an advantage if the blade is clamped in the terminals with the root part A (at the handle) and the tip slightly turned away from you, pos. 4. Then the sharpening angle at the root of the blade will be greatest, which is optimal for processing hard materials or using a knife as a cleaver. This is how they work in such cases, so that the outer arm of the arm-blade lever is shorter.

Towards the middle of blade B, the sharpening angle will gradually decrease and reach a minimum at the bend of its generatrix B1, which is convenient for fine work. Then towards the tip the B angle will increase again, making the tip more resistant to drilling, chiselling/impacting and punching (piercing).

Note: Another disadvantage of the Lansky-Metabo sharpener is the difficulty of performing desktop version. But this drawback, as they say, is fake, see pos. 5.

Drawings of parts of the original Lansky-Metabo sharpener are given in Fig. The numbers at the windows under the rod (guide) correspond to FULL sharpening angles.

On the trail. rice. Dan Assembly drawing clamp, and then - drawings and dimensions of Lansky-Metabo terminals, made from angle 90x90x6 mm. The author of the development hides under the pseudonym Serjant. This is certainly a matter of his modesty. But, by the way, in production technological innovations, allowing the use of standard profiles, are sometimes valued more than serious inventions.

Note: on the trail. rice. An assembly drawing of the Serjant sharpener is given. Regarding the inconvenience of fastening in a vice, see above.

Knife sharpening machine

The most advanced household manual sharpener today is the Apex type knife sharpening machine. His appearance, device diagrams and instructions for use, see Fig. Apex can be made with a continuously variable sharpening angle (item 2) or with fixed angles like Lansky-Metabo (item 3). Normally on Apex they work like on Lansky-Metabo (item 4), but for more precise sharpening other options are possible, see below.

In 2016, the desktop modification of Apex by Ivan Skomorokhov made a splash in the RuNet, perhaps no less than the bubafon stove once did, see fig. on right.

Skomorokh sharpeners are much simpler than the prototype and are in no way inferior to it in functionality.

How to make a knife sharpener Skomorokh, see video:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3HbX03YYTs – Part 1
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DKSCZIZIK4 – Part 2

Not just knives...

The original Apex sharpener is not very suitable for sharpening carpentry tools- chisel, plane iron. The sharpening angle of the Apex floats for the same reasons as that of the Lansky-Metabo. Meanwhile, if the sharpening angle of the chisel along the width of the blade “walks” by more than 1-1.5 degrees, then the tool strives to move to the side, crawl out, or go deep into the solid wood along its fibers. It is very difficult to evenly and accurately select a groove for a tenon/ridge using such a chisel.

There are special devices for sharpening carpentry tools, which require a special discussion. Homemade products like a roller sharpener-trolley, see fig. on the right, they are more of a curiosity: not to mention the complexity, they require a stone or steel table, and, most importantly, they do not guarantee against distortion of the blade on the whetstone, which leads to the same undesirable result.

Meanwhile, 2-3 years ago, in one of the Chinese magazines on technical creativity, a modification of the Apex for sharpening was flashed, not inferior to that of a factory electric semi-automatic sharpening machine. The alteration is not difficult, see figure: the rod is set horizontally according to the level and the rod level is held along the same level while sharpening. Within the angle of rotation of the rod in the horizontal plane of 10-12 degrees to the right and left, the sharpening angle error is less than 1 degree. If the offset of the contact point is from 250 mm, it is possible to sharpen chisels and planer pieces up to 120 mm wide.

In this mode of operation, a zero (theoretically) sharpening angle error can be achieved if you keep the bar stationary and move the knife held magnetic holder, see above. In this way, it is also possible to sharpen the pieces of shaped planes if a round, semicircular, elliptical or segmented whetstone is placed in the clamps. The main thing is that the touch spot is always point-like.

...but also scissors

Another improvement Apex sharpeners for sharpening scissors (also a necessary task in the household) is shown in Fig. on right. The total work required is a couple of pieces of angle or galvanized scraps and 4 additional holes in the sharpener table. How to make your own attachment for sharpening scissors for the Skomorokh sharpener, see next. video.

Video: sharpening scissors, attachment to the sharpener Skomorokh

Finally, about scissors

Before you grab bad cutting scissors and put them into the sharpener, check to see if the hinge is loose. Open the scissors and look at them from the side. Do you see how the tip is turned with a screw towards each other? That’s why scissors cut: the point of contact of the blades when cutting moves from the roots to the ends. And therefore it is difficult to cut with scissors with your left hand: turning the ends is designed for the kinematics of your right hand. And if the hinge of the scissors is loose, the blades will move away from each other and will not even be able to cope with paper. In this case, you just need to tighten the riveted joint with a hammer and the screw joint with a screwdriver.

The problem of dull knives is familiar firsthand to many owners who are forced to constantly hand over kitchen utensils to craftsmen for sharpening. Meanwhile, solving it is much easier than it seems, because you can make a knife sharpener with your own hands, using the available tools. This will save money on the purchase of a ready-made device or the services of professional workshops.

All about knife sharpeners

The easiest way to help owners get rid of the hassle associated with handing over knives to workshops is to purchase a sharpening stone. However, this option can only become optimal if it is possible to select a timber with the “correct” abrasiveness. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of the selected materials.

Choosing a quality stone

Sharpening stones, more often referred to as stones, have their own classification, familiarization with which will help you choose the most suitable material. And if the owner manages to avoid the most common mistakes, then it can be used in the future as in independent form, and as the main component of a homemade sharpening machine. So, The following gradations of grain size are distinguished:

One more distinctive feature sharpening stones is their color, because the darker the shade of the selected stone, the greater the level of abrasiveness it will have and vice versa, bright hues indicate the fine grain of the coating and its domestic purpose. It is worth noting that the performance of sharpening done with your own hands directly depends on the choice of this element.

It is recommended to pay attention to the quality of the selected material, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Thus, a distinction is made between timber of natural origin from slate and corundum rocks, as well as stone for turning diamond and ceramic types. Among the disadvantages of the first option, it is worth highlighting the high grain size and rapid wear due to the need to constantly wet the surface of the stone to form a special composition that automatically increases the abrasive qualities of the device.

That is why it is better to leave your choice to artificial stone for sharpening, the length of which will exceed the length of the cutter blade, which greatly facilitates the processing procedure. In addition, you can choose a beam whose ribs will have varying degrees of abrasiveness, which will allow you to carry out the procedure for basic and final sharpening at home.

There are several types of manual knife sharpeners with your own hands with different designs and degrees of difficulty in manufacturing. Naturally, the simpler the arrangement of such a home device, the less comfortable its use in everyday life will be and vice versa, a large number of components allows you to create very convenient sharpener models that greatly facilitate the process of sharpening the blade.

This point should also be taken into account when determining optimal design devices. It is strongly recommended to take into account such an important indicator as the volume of work, because if the owner needs to process only a few kitchen cutters, then it hardly makes sense to choose to make it yourself professional sharpener for knives with drawings and three-dimensional modeling.

To make a knife sharpener with your own hands, You can take the following popular models as a basis:

Particularly popular is a knife sharpener that is quite easy to make with your own hands, the drawings with dimensions of which were developed by the famous Lansky company. And this option is optimal for independent design and further use at home.

Making a simple model yourself

The principle of operation of the device according to Lansky’s design boils down to the fact that the processing of a securely fixed blade is carried out at a strictly defined angle using replaceable sharpening stone attachments with different grain sizes, as a result of which it is possible to obtain a very sharp edge of the cutting element. The finished device costs about 1,500 thousand Russian rubles, but the ease of its manufacture and the minimum set necessary details inspires craftsmen to create more budget-friendly homemade analogues from available means.

Step-by-step master class

You should start choosing the necessary materials after preparing the dimensions and drawings necessary for making a homemade knife sharpener. To make the task as easy as possible, it is recommended to use finished projects, which can be found on almost any network resource. As an example, we can give an assembly drawing, according to which you can independently make grinder like Lansky.

In order to assemble such a structure, The master will have to prepare the following materials:

• A metal rod that can be used to make studs marked M-6 of non-standard length.
• An electrode of any brand intended for use in electric welding work. It is from this element that the corner guides are made after complete cleaning of flux and burrs, which is carried out using grained emery.
• Carbon stainless steel with an average thickness of 3-5 millimeters, from which clamps with through holes are most easily made. It is worth noting that to make such holes you will need machine oil, treatment with a concentrated soap solution will help get rid of it in the future.
• Metal corners of medium size (9 by 9 by 0.6 centimeters).

In addition, you will need nuts and other fasteners, the recommended markings of which can be found in the presented drawing. As for the processing of elements and their assembly into a single structure, this procedure involves performing the following algorithm of actions:

There are often cases when, during operation, certain imperfections of a homemade sharpener are revealed, although this is not a reason for frustration, because you can always make a correction, maximally optimizing the operation of the device and adjusting it to individual needs.

There are several important rules sharpening of knives, which must be observed regardless of how exactly this procedure will be carried out. This means the following subtleties and nuances:

• Perpendicular placement of the blade in the direction of the whetstone while maintaining an angle equal to 1/2 of the sharpening value (the last condition is not mandatory).
• The sharpening angle should vary from 20 to 25 degrees.
• Start processing from the beginning of the blade, from its most blunt part. In this case, the edge can be painted black so as not to protrude beyond its limits when sharpening the blade.

During the turning process, characteristic transverse grooves tend to form on the edge of the blade. Their position relative to the base line of the cutting part must be perpendicular, because only then can it be said that the turning procedure was carried out correctly.

Every man in the house would benefit from a convenient sharpening machine. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.

To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The basic rule when this process— maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.

If the knife you are sharpening is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.

Homemade knife sharpening devices come in different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability of the necessary material and skills in working with tools.

The operating principle of such a device as manual machine To sharpen knives with your own hands, you need to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.

In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a pair of bots with wings. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top vertical stand, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is selected twice less than that, with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives It is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.

Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.

To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

In the end it turns out homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. In this case, it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Covers the thread. A pair of paper clips serve to secure the guide stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or jointer has probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, they apply specialized machines or If it is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife

To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.

A machine for sharpening jointing knives with your own hands consists of:

• faceplates;
• table;
• engine;
• vacuum cleaner;
• casing.

The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees complete and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Any one will do, even an old washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

Main stages of device manufacturing

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly under it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.

For reliable protection, the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the engine under the base of the faceplate is not a requirement. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out in a variety of ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what professional sharpening was. In most cases, sharpening was performed using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?

To make a device such as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending it to appropriate level body arc. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on a knife that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles cutting chamfer. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device is suitable.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To make this device, you need to find a door hinge with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes for knives are drilled in the shoulders. non-standard type. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen the knives for planer with your own hands. To make sharpening equipment at home you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

A knife holder can be made from wooden block. By making cuts at 45 degrees using a circular saw, you can sharpen the knives with a band saw. grinder or a large block. If the latter is not available, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution will be the use of metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.

With repeated use of knives, every housewife faces a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, this is unsafe, since the knife can slip while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.

You can buy a knife sharpener at your nearest hardware store or at the market, where they will offer you different kinds devices. You will have to choose yourself. But in order not to make a mistake, you need to know how to correctly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of use.

The offered options do not always satisfy consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows the options homemade sharpeners for knives.

Features of knife sharpening

When sharpening knives, the main thing to do is correct angle contact between the edges of the blades so that they serve you long and efficiently. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of the blades.

Each knife blade has its own optimal angles:

• from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
• from 15 to 20 degrees – for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
• from 20 to 25 degrees – for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
• from 25 to 30 degrees – for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long hikes;
• from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.

To sharpen the correct blade angle, you can't do without special devices, since it is difficult to do this manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for making sharpeners can be borrowed from the Internet.

Types of knife sharpeners

From a large assortment various types knife sharpeners, choosing the right option for yourself is quite simple.

The main elements of the sharpening device are a stop for fixing the knife and an abrasive stone, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or self-made. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to properly make a knife sharpener with your own hands.

Types of sharpening stones

There are several types of whetstones:

• aquatic. Sharpening stones used in water are less likely to wear out during use.
• oil The structure and configuration are similar to aquatic ones, but with a more oily surface.
• natural. For their production, only natural raw materials are used with pre-treatment during the production process.
• artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. the abrasive material is created artificially.
• rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, and they are also inconvenient during use.

What can you make a sharpener from?

To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the simplest method. Take a small glass plate rectangular shape about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided tape, attach strips of coarse and medium-grit sandpaper to it on both sides.

The block is ready for use; if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budget-friendly.

The disadvantages of this device include:

• rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fastening the timber you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
• possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.

You can find the best ideas for knife sharpeners on their respective websites.

Wooden bars

This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

Before starting work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Mark the block according to the required angle of inclination. Apply a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.

Note!

Make cuts 1.5 cm deep according to the mark and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached to the bottom will give the structure stability.

In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.

Photos of DIY knife sharpeners

Note!

Note!

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of ​​the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. Angle in similar situation equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when self-processing The “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

Second important detail The tool rest is considered to be a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the pin - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of usemanual homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. At self-production For a simple sharpening machine, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.