Communication cables are like arteries through which information flows - the lifeblood of our society. A modern city dweller, left without communication, feels blind and deaf at the same time, and therefore, when choosing a provider, a person pays considerable attention to its reputation in terms of the reliability of its networks. Accordingly, the quality of network installation affects their reliability, that is, the reputation of the provider, and therefore the number of its subscribers and the income that these subscribers bring to it. This article was written to reveal some of the nuances of cable laying - some tricks of installers, as well as some mistakes. As experts, we invited installers from one of the oldest providers in Yekaterinburg - the Kabinet company. These people have been working on Yekaterinburg roofs for many years, so it is difficult to find better consultants in the field of cable pulling.

So, the roofs of Yekaterinburg. Some time ago, during the time of a huge number of pioneer nets, a mass of people appeared on the roofs of our city pulling copper, and later optical cables. As a result, some roofs now have a veritable web of cables from a variety of providers. Since the cable was not marked before, it is now no longer possible to establish the identity of some links - some of them have long been dead, but no one is in a hurry to remove their used cables. Now all serious providers mark their cable. Some use tags for these purposes, others mark the cable itself.

In addition, providers are currently trying to maintain all their links in one large bundle, and not distribute them haphazardly across the entire roof. In new houses, where a smart HOA rules the roost, all operators are allocated certain points for cable entry and exit, and sometimes the entire route along their roof is marked. And they don’t give permission for laying; if the provider does not agree to their conditions, the provider is prohibited from laying. As a result, in such houses, trunk and house cables from several operators can run in touching unity in a single large bundle. Although, in order to avoid unnecessary dominance, many HOAs try not to allow a large number of cables into their homes, not only out of a desire to get a kickback, but also not wanting to clog their risers and roofs with numerous cables.

So, on the one hand, the cable is protected from friction by the corrugation, on the other hand, it will soon fray from friction and temperature changes. And it will be difficult to replace her. The slack that the installers left during the installation to reduce friction seems unnecessary - in winter, icicles are guaranteed to form on it. Wouldn't it be better to make the transition along a metal cable, leaving slack only at the bend line at the edge of the roof? We'll talk more about ways to protect cables from friction below.

Now the input - two cables wrapped in corrugation enter one hole in the wall. The edges of the corrugated tubes are sealed with sealant. But that section of the cable that directly passes through the wall is not protected by anything other than its own insulation. We make an allowance for the aforementioned slack, which gives windage in the wind, and we get the friction that will certainly arise in the hole. Could it be possible to pass the same corrugation through the same hole in order for the cable to sit more tightly in the hole and receive additional protection from friction?

Another input method is via dormer windows and attics. It is immediately worth noting that no one intended the dormer windows for laying cables. When old houses were built, these windows were usually made of wood, but over time the wood rotted and was replaced by iron.

In one case, the fastening runs parallel to the cable, preventing it from bending. In another, the same fastening leads to a break in the cable. Here the installer himself didn’t think enough.

Wire is another matter - the climate is not terrible for it. And not to say that working with wire is much more inconvenient than working with ties. To illustrate his theory, he showed a "trick" of the Kabinet installers - a proprietary wire tie, so to speak. The end of the wire is wrapped into a loop with side cutters, the other end of the wire is threaded into this loop and voila:

Pulling the cable along the roof itself also requires considerable effort from the installer, and he also has to work with his head. On the one hand, there is a technology according to which cables must be pulled over roofs using special masts that have special places for attaching couplings, and space for technological reserves, and special guy wires, of which there must be at least four, and they must diverge in different sides for greater mast stability.

But technology is technology, and shortcomings occur even among those who install these masts (and there are few such providers in our city). Pay attention to the lower part of the mast. If everything is done correctly, then the mast should have not four, but eight guy wire holders - equally distributed in the upper and lower parts. But the installers of this mast did not go for such luxuries - limiting themselves to only four guys in the upper part. As a result, the top of the mast is quite securely fixed, and the lower one will sooner or later begin to move.

The mast looks new - it hasn't been standing longer than a couple of months. And due to the lack of fixation at the base, it is already tilting. Moreover, on top part This mast is pressed by the weight of the coupling and technical reserve. As a result, this mast can be brought down with a light kick to the base. But even without a kick, such a design will not last very long. Moreover, the stretch marks in the upper part also do not inspire confidence, because they are secured like this:

That is, the cable mount is simply driven into the ventilation shaft pipe. Firstly, this destroys the pipe itself, and the local housing office workers, if they climbed onto the roof, are unlikely to be happy with this picture. Secondly, this method of fastening in itself is short-lived - a strong gust of wind will sooner or later pull out the cable along with the fastening, and then what? Re-hammer it into the pipe? Until the next gust of wind? So soon the pipe will only be holes...

More The right way the mount looks like this:

Around ventilation pipe or other stable structure firmly standing on the roof, a metal cable or wire of considerable cross-section is wrapped around it. You can safely attach the mast guy wires to the resulting loop, although most Ekaterinburg providers attach the cable directly. This solution is much more durable and does not harm the structure to which it is attached.

It is known that a significant part of the masts belongs to Rostelecom (formerly Uralsvyazinform), which inherited these masts along with wired radio networks. Other operators also install their own masts to a greater or lesser extent. Rostelecom masts are actively used by other providers to extend their lines.

Unfortunately, not all installers do this in compliance technological standards- here is an example of how not to use RT-Ural telephone masts.

If RT-Ural installers find themselves on the same roof, they will probably simply cut off someone else’s cable that was thrown through their mast with such impudence. If I were them, I would cut them off.

However, Rostelecom masts are not found everywhere. In their absence, many Ekaterinburg providers are stretching using dormer windows, ventilation shafts and, in general, any large roof structures suitable for cable fastening

It is still worth remembering that using ventilation pipes when pulling cables is not always correct. Here are cases of obvious violation of any laying technology:

In the first case, the cable is attached to an old rusty ventilation pipe, which is already tilting even without additional load. It is unlikely that much time will pass before the cable, swaying under the influence of the wind, tears out this pipe. And the cable will remain without support and the housing office will be saddened.

In the second case, the cable is routed directly through the ventilation pipe. Through this hole, warm air flows from the apartments come out - including hot air generated above kitchen stoves residents of this house. Under the influence of the jet warm air Any insulation will sooner or later begin to melt.

It would be more correct to choose strong and massive superstructures on the roof as a support for the cable and lay the cable not through them, but along the outer perimeter of such superstructures. To attach the cable to their walls, methods that do not lead to damage to the superstructure are acceptable - the same wire loop around the superstructure. The cable can be secured to massive, durable superstructures using spacers:

What you definitely shouldn’t do is simply throw the cable through such add-ons. Equals Rubbing the cable against a corner will damage it.

The technology used by Kabinet's installers provides for transitions in such cases - the guys make one of them right in front of me. In a good way, every time the cable can come into contact with the corner of such a booth, the edge of the roof or the corner of a ventilation pipe, you should put here is the transition:

That is, if during pulling there is some obstacle that the cable will rub against, then an insert is made in the area in contact with the obstacle. metal cable, and the cable makes a small wave. This allows you to go around the dangerous area. In this way, you can bypass almost any potentially dangerous areas, be it the corners of buildings or roof railings. Such a transition will not take much time - the experienced Kabinet "sheep in my presence did it in about five minutes. Those who neglect this simple solution, risk one day seeing your cable frayed:

Rubber gaskets and corrugations do not cope here, since very often they either fray themselves or slide off due to friction:

Corrugations and rubber gasket tubes are good for protecting a cable from another cable. In conditions where the entire roof is entangled with cables, situations inevitably arise when the cables cross and rub against each other. This is where the corrugated tube is just right.

For various reasons, it is not always possible to conduct underground electrical cable to an object that needs to be supplied with electricity. In such cases, the technology of laying cables or individual wires through the air on a cable is successfully used. In the article we will look at how to install and lay a cable on a cable to a house or garage, and what types of fastening are used.

Scope of technology

Such technologies are used only in electrical networks with a voltage not exceeding 1000 volts, the requirement of the PUE is Chapter 2.1. In most cases, the laying of cables on cables is used from buildings or power lines to individual structures over short distances. Where installation of power line supports or digging trenches for cables is impossible according to technical specifications production during the operation of facilities, or unreasonably in terms of the volume of work performed, is expensive from a financial point of view.

In production workshops, warehouses, buildings with large areas, high ceilings, for lighting the best option is to use these technologies. Cable ropes are used for electrical networks street lighting separate territories.

For private home owners, this wiring method eliminates the time-consuming work of digging a trench. Easier from switchboard in the house, stretch the cable over the air to outbuildings:

• workshop;
• summer kitchen;
• gazebo with barbecue;
• chicken coop;
• bathhouse and other possible structures in the courtyard of a private household.

Cable wiring allows you to conduct light three-wire wires for electrical consumers of low power and cables with large cross-section wires for power supply of powerful household appliances. Before proceeding with the installation of cable wiring, preliminary calculations are required.

Preliminary measures before installation

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine how much power will be consumed by electrical appliances in the structures that are planned to be provided with electricity. Based on the power consumption, the cross-section of the cable wires is calculated, its length and weight are taken into account. These parameters determine which fasteners to use, the diameter and material of the cable. To calculate power consumption and cable cross-section, a more detailed study of a separate topic is required. In simplified form it looks like this:

• The power of all electrical appliances is summed up, which are supposed to be used in the calculated network. The power of each device is indicated in product passports or nameplates on the housing. The simplest example of a lighting lamp is always written 40 on them; 60; 75 or 100 or more watts.

∑Р = P1 + P2 +…Pn = 3.7 kW. (3700 W) – Total power.

• Determine the maximum possible current in the circuit

I = ∑Р/ U=3700 W/220 V = 16.8 A. – Maximum current.

U – network voltage.

• To determine the cross-section of wires in a cable, use the table

In our case, we choose a maximum current value slightly greater than 19A, taking into account that additional household appliances may be used in the future. According to the table, we obtain a power of 4.1 kW, which corresponds to a copper wire cross-section of 1.5 mm. You need to understand that the cross section is not the diameter, it is calculated using the formula:

Experienced electricians are well aware of the standards of cables and wires and determine the cross-section by eye. For ordinary consumers, there are tables for determining the cross-section by diameter, it is enough to measure the diameter of the wire with a micrometer or caliper and determine its cross-section using the table.

• Next stage preliminary work, cable length measurement from the distribution board in the house to the switchgear ( switchgear) on the building to which the cable structure is stretched. This can be done with a regular tape measure,

Tip #1. Be sure to take into account the cable reserve for cutting and connecting to the control panel; add approximately 30 cm at both ends.

Selecting the diameter and material of the cable

Determine the weight of the cable and other elements that will be attached to it. If the distance between the supporting fasteners is 5-6 m and the weight of the wire is not significant, you can stretch galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. When the distance is more than 10 m, the cable is heavy, especially if the cable structure is used with lighting elements, galvanized steel cable with Ø 4-6.5 mm is used. Such a cable will withstand any cable with a wire cross-section of up to 10 mm/sq.m; larger cables are not used in private households due to limited power consumption. You can also hang up to 5 pieces on such a cable. lighting lanterns in a lightweight housing.

The cable can be wound and weighed on ordinary scales, or calculated by knowing its brand according to the characteristics table, which is included with the sale. The weight of the cable per 1 m is indicated, you need to multiply the specified weight by the number of meters you get total weight piece, which is used for fastening to a steel cable.

For domestic conditions, in order not to waste money, you can hang the cable that was used for hidden wiring. In order for the insulation to last longer, lay it in a corrugated pipe; its weight is not significant. There are reference tables indicating the brand and weight of the cable. You can look it up on the Internet; some sites have calculators for calculating the length and weight of wires and cables.

Tip No. 2 Use the calculator on this site http://kabelves.ru/

Table indicating the cable brand and weight in kg. by 1 meter

For high current loads, it is better to use special cables for overhead cable structures:

• AVT, AVTS, APT already have a built-in supporting steel cable;
• AVRG, ANRG, APVG, AVVG are suspended from a supporting steel cable.

Supporting and tensioning elements of cable wiring

These products are installed on the walls of buildings, structures between which tension is stretched. Depending on the material and diameter of the cable, the fastening design is selected:

• Tension bolt, hook and tension anchor are used for flexible stranded cables industrial production bearing heavy loads, rolled wire with a diameter of up to 6 mm can be used.
• Anchors for tensioning strings with a small diameter are designed for light wires with a cross-section of up to 6 mm at a distance of up to 10 meters, without elements lighting fixtures.
• Anchors for industrial cables and wire rods are capable of supporting heavy cables and lighting elements at a distance of up to 12 m without additional supports.
• Fasteners for stringing parallel lines are often used for dual purposes, for power supply to structures and placement of lighting lanterns. A power cable with a wire cross-section of 10 -35 mm/sq. is laid along one cable, lighting partitions are installed on the second, distribution boxes with copper wire 2.5 - 4 mm.

All these designs have individual characteristics when installed on the walls of buildings.

Requirements for installation of end fastenings and installation features

Never attach end pieces to decorative building siding or roofing components. Devices designed for heavy loads are fixed on both sides load-bearing wall steel plates fastened with through bolts. As shown in the picture for the tension bolt with hook. They must be located above pedestrian passages at a height of at least 2.7 m, and above vehicle passages at least 6 m. Anchors for strings with lighter loads can be secured with simple anchor screws for concrete.

Ideally, tension anchor devices are installed in the wall during the construction of buildings according to the project. In practice, this is not always provided for; then you have to drill into the walls with a hammer drill. Under the end fastening, a metal plate with a bolted contact is attached at 20-30 cm for grounding the cable. It is connected by a welding joint with rolled wire with a cross-section of at least 16 sq/mm, which goes to general outline grounding. In some cases, grounding is performed with a separate copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 sq/mm bolted connections.

Laying the cable on a cable when connecting to the wall

Installation and tension of the cable

After installing the terminal fastenings, the cable is attached to the guy wire on the ground, lighting fixtures with junction boxes are fixed and connected. The assembled structure is delivered to the installation site and unwound along its entire length from one mounting anchor to another.

The length of the cable must be at least 2 m greater than the distance between the end anchors. The reserve will be needed to seal the fastening on terminal devices and bringing the ends to the grounding terminals, which are located below the anchors. The end loops of the cable are attached to the tension anchors, after which they regulate the tension. The tensile force should be up to 100 kg/cm for light structures with cables with a cross-section of 4-10 sq./mm. For heavy cables with a cross-section of 16 – 25 sq./mm – up to 500 kg./cm. This parameter is measured by a dynamometer, which is installed between the anchor and the tension loop.

After tensioning the cable, the ends of the cable are grounded, the cable is inserted into distribution devices and connected to protective circuit breakers.

Elements for fastening the cable to the cable

To securely fix the cable with the cable, there are several devices:

The simplest method cable twisting with stretching using ordinary aluminum wireØ 2.5 – 5 mm with insulation. At connections every 50 -80 cm, 7-8 turns of wire are made, tightly turn to turn. To prevent the cable insulation from being pressed through by the fastening wires, the fastening point is wrapped with a rubber plate, and the wire is wound on top. It is recommended to use rubber for gaskets from old car inner tubes;

The device is attached to a guy wire, the cable is laid in a groove, covered with a strap, which is threaded into the lock, tightened and securely fixed. The lock is designed in such a way that the strap cannot be pulled out in the opposite direction; to remove it, you can only cut it.

Plates with are produced with loops different sizes. One plate is put on the cable and the other on the cable. In the center of the plates there is a hole with a thread for a bolt; they are aligned and tightened with a bolt.

All connections, regardless of the design, are installed after 50 - 80 cm.

Distribution boxes and lighting devices for cable mounting

To fasten distribution boxes, special galvanized iron plates with cut-out shapes are used. A part of the plate is bent from the cut-out shape, a cable and a box are inserted, after which everything is fixed with bent elements.

To fasten lighting fixtures, galvanized plates of a special shape are used, but the principle of fastening remains the same, shown in the figure.

• Cable;
• Plate;
• Cable;
• Junction box;
• Lampshade with lamp socket.

Frequently asked questions for electricians

Question No. 1. You can tighten the cable, then attach the cable and other elements?

It is possible if the installation conditions on site allow this to be done without compromising safety when working at height. But after this you will definitely have to increase the tension, since the load on it will increase.

Question No. 2. What wire should be used to connect the fasteners under the anchor to the ground loop?

Depending on your capabilities, rolled wire with a welded connection or copper, preferably with yellow-green insulation, as determined by the PUE. The cross-section of the wires must be at least 2.5 sq/mm.

Question No. 3. Can I use a cable as a neutral wire?

Yes, provided that it is properly grounded.

Question No. 4. Which circuit breaker install for a cable routed along a cable?

The design of the cable outlet in this case does not matter; the circuit breaker is installed based on the maximum load current in this circuit.

Question No. 5. Can distribution boxes be hung for outdoor wiring?

For now plastic pipes are the most popular. These include pipes made of low-density polyethylene (HDPE). This material for the production of pipes has been used in our country since 1954. During this time he managed to establish himself with best side. Cable installation in HDPE pipes is carried out to protect against mechanical damage and impacts environment. Let's look at how to stretch a cable in a HDPE pipe using examples.

Varieties of low-density polyethylene products for laying communications

• corrugated- wide range of uses;
• smooth hard- mainly used outside building structures.

They occupied a special niche in wiring. Depending on their strength, they are divided into:

• Lungs- high degree of flexibility, thin walls. They can withstand light loads, so it is recommended to use them under cladding in walls and on ceilings.
• Average- the thickness is slightly greater than that of light pipes. Can be installed in walls and screeds.
• Heavy- low flexibility, thick walls. They are used in screeds and also buried in the ground. For bends it is worth using special couplings and corners.
• Reinforced- high strength indicators thanks to a special steel wire placed inside a plastic sheath.

Using the probe

Depending on the design, HDPE pipes are produced with or without a probe (broach).

A broach is a thin cable or wire that is used to pull the cable into the pipe. To make work easier, it is better to use double corrugation, the inner wall of which is smooth and made of LDPE, which facilitates the passage of wiring.

1. Start by measuring the desired length. The excess pipe is cut off with a knife or a special pipe cutter, and the probe is cut with side cutters.

   When cutting the probe, be sure to hold the inner end, otherwise it may get stuck and it will be almost impossible to get out.

2. After cutting, bend the broach and hook it to the outer wall of the pipe. We wrap the cable around the wire or pierce the internal insulation.
3. Having tied the opposite end of the cable to a fixed object, you need to gradually pull the cable through the HDPE pipe. You can carry out this operation independently, or with a partner: one holds, the other holds out.
4. For better glide, it is worth wrapping the clutch of the broach and the cable with PVC electrical tape.

How to stretch a cable using various devices?

In the absence of a probe, cable pulling is possible using various devices. The complexity of the process increases slightly, but the required result is achieved in one of the following ways.

We use ultrasonic testing

A device for laying cable channels (UZK, cable conductor, bush) is an installation device designed for pulling cables. It consists of a rod (steel, nylon, fiberglass) and a nozzle (flexible or rigid). For long bushes, a reel or winding winch is supplied.

Stages of work:

• a device for laying cable channels is inserted inside the HDPE pipe;
• a cable is attached to the bush (you can use a cable stocking),
• The ultrasonic cable, replacing the cable, is pulled out of the pipe.

For ease of use, mechanical, electric or hydraulic winches are used that provide power traction. To improve the sliding of wires along HDPE pipes, special ointments can be used that will reduce the friction force and promote rapid passage.

Ultrasonic testing is not a cheap device; its price can reach several tens and even hundreds of thousands of rubles. It is used mainly by professional installers. It is not profitable for a home handyman to use it. Unless, of course, you can borrow it from friends or rent it.

Working with a vacuum cleaner or compressor

If the product is of small diameter, then inserting the cable into the HDPE pipe will not be difficult. The process is quite simple.

1. We attach a vacuum cleaner to one end of the pipe. On the other side, we insert a light thread/string with a weight (for example: a foam/foam rubber ball or cork) and, as the thread is inserted into the pipe, we unwind the spool.
2. After the thread has come out from the other side, we either fasten the wire, or, if the wire is too heavy, we attach the wire and pull it out reverse side string with cable or wire.
3. In the event that a wire was pulled, it is necessary to attach the wiring to it and pull it back, as in the case of a thread, with the probe inside.

We work with the compressor in the same way, but it must be placed on the side where the thread is inserted.

Magnetic device

The operating principle of this broach is extremely simple. It is necessary to attach a special magnet to the wire or cord being pulled; it reacts to an external magnet that the installer will use. All that is necessary is to insert a lightweight nylon cable with a magnetic tip into the pipe and move the magnet along outside pipes, pull the cable through the pipe. From the opposite end, attach the thread to the cable and pull it back.

The method is used for pulling wires in cavities of walls, floors, ceilings and in HDPE pipes significant footage. Exist magnetic devices for pulling in cable ducts of short length. A magnetic tip is attached to the end of the cable, reacting to a magnet attached to a plastic rod to pull the wire through the pipe.

Step-by-step installation of heating wire

In harsh winter conditions, to protect against freezing, heating of the pipes is required. It is difficult to get by with simple thermal insulation, so you can resort to additional option- . It maintains the required temperature and prevents condensation.

Before inserting the heating cable into the HDPE pipe, it is worth focusing on some nuances:

• This heater can only be installed if the HDPE pipe diameter is greater than 20 mm.
• The length of the cable must be equal to the length of the heated area.
• The heated area must have a minimum of fittings, turns must be natural.
• Do not pull the wire into the pipe through shut-off valves.
• The installation location must be marked with a warning notice.
• It is forbidden to fix the power cable and coupling with the gland and bushing included in the kit.

Sequencing:

1. The first step is to process the ends. We clean off the insulating shell by about 4.5 cm. The metal cores are not needed, so we cut them off flush with the coating. We remove the protective shell of the matrix.
2. Then, step by step, we cut off part of it. We put adhesive heat shrink on this area and thoroughly heat it with a hairdryer. Then we crimp.
3. After it cools, cut off the excess. Then we put the heat-shrinkable sleeve of the largest diameter on top of the previous one, and pull it onto the protective sheath of the cable. Warm up, crimp, remove excess. You can use a heat shrink cap.
4. We connect the power cable to the heating cable. It is required to prepare a power cable in advance, at the end of which there is a Euro plug. You must first remove the insulating shell:
   • cutting off 4.5 cm transversely, remove the outer protective coating;
   • twist all the wires into one;
   • remove the insulation, retreating about 2.5 cm, approach the self-regulating matrix with 2 conductors;
   • it is necessary to remove 2 conductive wires, stripping them on both sides.

     To make the job easier, you can heat the coating with a lighter or hair dryer. Having taken out the cores, it is necessary to remove the unnecessary part of the matrix.

5. We thread the power cable into the longest adhesive coupling of a smaller diameter, and into the larger coupling we insert the heating cable into the HDPE pipe. We crimp the edges of the 2 heater cores onto a tinned copper sleeve.
6. On the other hand, we insert the ends of the protected current-carrying wires of the power supply and carefully crimp them.
7. We thread them into couplings of smaller diameter and heat them up, starting from the center.
8. It is necessary to connect the twisted braid to the ground of the power wire. Having cut off the excess, put on the sleeve and carefully crimp it.
9. Then you need to move the heat shrink and insulate the assembly.
10. IN last resort We isolate the grounding unit by moving an external heat-shrinkable pipe of a larger diameter onto this connection and warm it up. We install the heater.
11. To ensure tightness at the entry point, a penetration is used. All fasteners must be carefully tightened. We twist the clamping sleeve with our hands and tighten the connection with a wrench.
12. Before connecting the system, make sure that the cable will not pass through shut-off valves. We connect to the power supply system.

If everything is chosen correctly and the work is done carefully, you don’t have to worry about frozen pipes in winter.

Rare mounting or construction crew dispenses with ultrasonic testing device (cable laying device). This is an installation tool used in the construction of electrical, telephone, computer, intercom and other systems. A cable pull (a common and more familiar name for a device) is extremely necessary when laying wires through ducts, voids, pipes, metal hoses, and panel cabinets.

General description of the device

A broach (also known as an ultrasonic device, boom, probe, conductor, rod) was invented for tightening cables or wires into various communication channels. It looks like a durable, flexible, indestructible structure. Some types of devices are capable of self-extending.

The broach has an internal cord. It is formed by the rod round section. The compact core consists of unidirectional reinforcing fibers, radial threads that crosswise envelop the longitudinal reinforcing fibers. This is the main part of the device - the rod. It is made from various materials.

The rod is covered with a special braid (shell), which serves for ease of operation and increases the service life of the device. A long rod is wound onto a reel and placed on a cassette in a coil. The cassette is rotated, as a rule, manually. The rod is supplied with removable tips.

Ordinary temperature Range Product operation ranges from -15°C to +50°C. The average service life is 1.5 years. But the safety of the rod depends on the intensity of use and conditions of use.

Types of broaches

Cable pulling can be done using various types devices. They are classified according to the material used to make the interior. The following types of broaches are distinguished:

• fiberglass;
• steel;
• nylon.

Fiberglass broaches have the highest rigidity. Due to the structural characteristics of fiberglass, they tend to straighten. This allows the cable to be pulled through small holes, dropped ceilings. However, handling such broaches requires care. Fiberglass is a fragile material and is susceptible to bending at low degrees.

A steel broach is formed by metal wire or tape wrapped in a nylon sheath. Steel material provides better bending and tensile strength of the broach. This type of device is very effective for pulling cable through L-shaped bends in ducts.

Closed channels (metal hoses, ducts, pipes, etc.) can be passed through with nylon broaches. The device has a particularly flexible guide. It can be combined with a pressed-in brass tip. Thanks to the dielectric properties of nylon, it is safe to pull near live cables.

Device contents

Traditionally, an ultrasonic tester consists of a set of tips, a glass rod, and a trolley. Richer configurations may include additional accessories. Manufacturers offer devices for gripping broaches, a special spring for quickly clamping cables, and gel lubricants.

Depending on the length of the rod, it is folded into a circle or wound onto a reel. More massive reels are mounted on a trolley, which has wheels for convenient and quick movement.

Marking numbers indicate the diameter of the rod and its length. The diameter of the rod is measured in millimeters and can be 3.5 mm, 6 mm, 9 mm, 11 mm. For example, the numbers 11/150 mean that a rod with a diameter of 11 mm and a length of 150 m is wound on the reel.

For ease of tightening cable conductors, the rod is terminated on both sides with lugs. They serve for ease of gripping and tightening the wire. Thus, a tip with a double loop (cable stocking) is capable of quickly and efficiently gripping a cable weighing up to 5.5 tons and holding the conductor in vertical plane for installation.

The tips are threaded, which allows you to attach various devices. These can be guide heads, connecting tubes, rotation compensators, etc. Most widespread We received 2 types of tips: with a guide head and with an eye for attaching the wire being pulled.

Hydraulic cable jacks, cable guide rollers, protective cable entries, and cable bends (elbows) can be used as auxiliary ones. Various lubricants - gels for lubricating the cable - reduce traction forces and protect the conductor from mechanical damage.

Where is it used?

To create complex lines or systems in hard to reach places installers and builders actively use the device for pulling cables. The device helps overcome obstacles in the way various types voids:

• pipes;
• boxes;
• channels;
• metal hoses;
• floor panels.

Functionally, the use of ultrasonic testing is comparable to the use of a probe. The tool is used to insert cable and wire products into the desired work area.

The cable pulling device is used for:

• creating an electrical wiring line;
• telephone or computer communication equipment;
• installation of intercoms;
• formation of video and audio systems;
• equipping security and fire alarm systems;
• installation in suspended ceilings, under the flooring.

Ultrasonic testing is used when it is necessary to stretch a wire or cable inside a closed cavity. First, the channel is passed through with a rod. Then a cable (wire) is attached to a special attachment. After fixing the cable, the rod is pulled back, pulling the cable through inner space channel.

Advantages of modern devices

Development latest technologies leads to constant improvement of ultrasonic testing tools. Modern device for cable pulling, it is often made from polyesters (polyesters).

Initially, polyester fiber has a number of undeniable advantages. The material is durable, wear-resistant, and slightly wrinkled. Therefore use innovative materials and technologies provide a number of advantages for modern ultrasonic testing.

The latest cable pulling device features exceptional anti-friction properties. The spiral shape significantly reduces the contact area.

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Installation of cables in corrugated cables is most often carried out during installation, as well as in floor screeds. Self-extinguishing corrugated pipes are also used during electrical installation work in a wooden house. It will be quite problematic for a person without experience to thread the conductor, because... its end may cling to the inner walls of the corrugated pipe. In fact, the pulling technology is not complicated, so if you don’t know how to pull a corrugated cable, we recommend that you read the instructions below.

Installation technology

To make the information easier to understand, we will present it step by step:

Overview of the entire event

That's actually the whole installation technology. As you can see, pull the wire or cable through corrugated pipe not exactly difficult. The last thing left is to secure the corrugation to the clips. However, we provided the most successful situation. There are more complex cases when stretching a conductor is quite problematic, for example, if there is no broach. Below we will consider all force majeure situations.

Read about what they are in the article we linked to!

Non-standard cases

The first and most common situation is when the string is pulled away from the conductor due to strong tension. In this case, it is recommended to cut off the part of the corrugation that has already been threaded and leave it, then reconnect the wire to the end of the cable and finish pulling. The two pieces of corrugated pipe are then connected with electrical tape.

Pulling the wire through the corrugation, if there is no broach, is also not difficult. It is enough to simply bend the end of the conductor 180° and insulate it so that it does not cling inside the pipe, then push the product all the way through desired length. Clearly demonstrated this technology in the video below:

How to start a wire without a probe

If you have little space in your apartment and you need to thread a long section of corrugated pipe yourself, for example, 30 meters, it is not always possible to do this in a room without experience. In this case, it is recommended to first connect the cable to the string, then go out into the entrance and secure the free end of the wire to the railing on the top floor. After this, stretch the corrugation until the problem is solved. Or use the Health disk as shown in the following video (second minute):

Sometimes it becomes necessary to stretch a conductor in a corrugated pipe along the ceiling, or rather inside suspended structure from plasterboard. This is quite difficult to do, because... if the sheets are already sewn up, installation must be done through grooves under the lamps. In this case, a regular string will help to insert the corrugated pipe through the ceiling. In the video tutorial, the masters clearly demonstrated the essence of the work:

How to lay a corrugated hose through a plasterboard ceiling

Well, the last situation that I would like to describe is laying a cable with rubber insulation in a corrugated area. The difficulty lies in the fact that when pulling, strong friction occurs between the walls of the corrugated pipe and the insulation of the conductor. As a result, even the wire does not facilitate the process, and if there is no broaching, in this case it is generally unrealistically difficult to complete the installation. A special lubricant comes to the rescue, for example Wire Pulling Lubricant from 3M, with which you can quickly pull the cable through a corrugated pipe. The cost of such a lubricant is a little high, however, if you often perform electric installation work, we recommend purchasing it, because... One bottle lasts a long time.

That's actually all the information we wanted to provide. We draw your attention to the fact that it is better to tighten a cable with a cross-section of 3 * 1.5 mm 2 into a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. At the same time, for a section of 3 * 2.5 mm 2 a diameter of 20 mm is needed. Now you know how to pull the cable into the corrugation with your own hands and what to do if there is no pull!