Paving slabs in the country house or in the yard country house is capable of performing not only a decorative function, but also a utilitarian one. In order for it to look beautiful and easily withstand the load placed on it, it must be laid correctly.

Many homeowners prefer to have hired specialists handle the process, believing that they will perform all the necessary operations in the best possible way. But some people don't trust employees, and prefers to carry out all important manipulations independently.

To the extent possible, install paving slabs with your own hands? It is quite possible to do this, the main thing is to have step-by-step instructions at hand. It describes in detail the sequence of all upcoming operations and the order in which they are performed.

Laying the yard with paving slabs: preparation

Before starting work, you need to think it through carefully and draw up a plan. This will guarantee a long and reliable service life of the manufactured coating. Tiling the entire yard is not very rational or cost-effective.

But paths are necessary on any site - it can be quite difficult to do without them. Therefore you need to calculate required amount paths, their size and configuration, so that they connect residential building with various outbuildings and other buildings.

Then, in any weather, the homeowner and his household will move along neat, clean paths. And green spaces will suffer much less.

Why paving slabs? This material is increasingly used in both industrial and private construction.

The advantages of this road surface obvious. The installation work is not particularly difficult. The tiles do not “float” during hot weather and do not burst from severe frost.

It looks beautiful and is easy to care for. The tiled area allows moisture to pass through well, which is beneficial for both the soil and plants.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles

Important notes to help you lay tiles correctly

You should not start work immediately after rain, especially during it. The soil and pad must be well dry. To prevent the tiles from starting to creep after some time, humidity levels should be minimal.

Laying paving slabs: progress of work

To carry out the work you will need cement, curbing, sand and the tile itself. The required tools are pegs, a rule, a tamper, a broom, nylon thread, rubber hammer, trowel and level.

We start by marking the site, or rather, by determining the contour of the future path.

The site is marked with wooden pegs, which are connected with a nylon cord. It must be properly tensioned and level, as it will become a guide when laying the tiles.

To properly arrange the base, you will have to cut and remove the layer of turf, then level the resulting surface, moisten it and compact it with a special tamper.

• If the soil is dense enough, then often it does not need such manipulations. Plant roots and stones found in the soil must be removed.
• If the soil is not removed, the path will seem to be slightly raised above the surface of the site. The consequence of this may be its erosion by rain or melt water.
• The resulting compacted bed is covered with gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm high.
• If the path is intended for the movement of cars, then this figure should be increased to 40 cm. (Geotextiles can be laid under and on the gravel).
• To level, sand is poured on top - its thickness should be approximately 2 cm.

Border for paving slabs

What is the border for? Its purpose is to prevent the tiles from spreading and highlight the path. Is its use mandatory?

No, often when laying a path with tiles they do without additional finishing. The base under the curb must be carefully leveled. It is best to place it on a special concrete castle. For paving slabs in a private area, it is quite possible to use a plastic border.

Preparing the base: options for laying paving slabs

The bases for paving slabs can be different - there are three types in total. Depending on the type of base chosen, the method of laying the tiles also changes.

On the sand. The space between the stretched cords or borders is filled with sand. The thickness of such a pillow should be 5-6 cm. The sand is well soaked and left to dry, after which it is leveled and compacted. The tile is placed lightly wet sand(never wet).

On concrete. There can be two options: when a concrete base is already available, and when it is installed specifically as a substrate for tiles. This method considered not very rational.

The point is that the cement monolith retains water (does not allow it to pass through). It accumulates between the tiles and the base - when severe frost freezes, causing the track to deform.

On a cement-sand cushion. Another sand layer of 3-4 cm is poured onto the prepared base (with the soil removed, leveled and compacted), and a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. Next, a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of four to one is placed on it.

Technology for laying paving slabs

The tiles should begin to be placed from the lowest point in the upward direction. Competent masonry should be carried out “on your own”.

In other words, when doing work, the specialist moves along an already laid path so as not to endanger the prepared foundation. If a circular method of installing tiles is used, then the activities begin in the center of the picture.

Individual tile elements should be placed diagonally, and not in even stripes. This will make it easier to align them during the process. First, a rope is pulled along the width of the future path, along which the initial row of material will be aligned. Every two or three times the correctness of the horizontal is verified by a level.

The tiled element is placed in the place prepared for it, and brought to the correct position by soft tapping with a hammer.

If necessary, you can add sand under it. A gap of 2-3 mm left between the tiles is usually enough for moisture to escape. To ensure that the gap has the same size over the entire distance, you can use special crosses. But in practice they usually do without them.

Turnkey tile laying: grouting

In order for a hand-made path to be beautiful and wear-resistant, you will have to take care correct processing seams. They are usually filled in two steps.

First, dry sifted sand is applied to the freshly prepared path. Using a brush or broom, it is leveled over the surface and swept into the seams.

The next layer that should be poured onto the path is a sand-cement mixture or sand. They treat him the same way as the first.

Then, using a sprayer or using other available means, the path is moistened quite intensively - until puddles appear. If there is a border, then the distance between it and the tiles is also filled with the mixture. You can purchase a factory-made mixture for joints.

In order for a paving slab path to serve for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for it. This coating does not require any special procedures: it should be swept regularly and washed occasionally.

Then she will retain her original appearance and remain elegant for as long as possible. In winter, you should protect it from damage by not using rough metal products - shovels, ice picks and crowbars.

If you want to improve your yard or organize paths in your garden, pay attention to paving slabs. This material has proven itself to be excellent, it is strong, durable, and beautiful. Nowadays there are many types of paving slabs and everyone can choose one that suits the facade of the house or just one that suits their taste. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be paved with paving slabs in a weekend, but to cover a large yard it will take about two weeks and a helper.

Before you start laying, you need to understand the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrocast. It is better to opt for vibro-cast paving slabs, which more than pay for the slightly higher cost with their beautiful appearance and durability.

The thickness of paving slabs may vary. Typically, the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, paving slabs with a thickness of 40-45 mm are most often laid. 60mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will travel.

The tile pattern can be any, but beginners are not recommended to lay tiles such as “rhombus”, “brick” and “paving stones”. It is more difficult to lay such tiles; craftsmen charge more for working with them.

The color of the tile can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles more expensive than gray.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Materials and tools for laying paving slabs

• Sand. You will need quite a lot of sand (several tons), its quantity depends on the area of ​​the yard, as well as the features of the landscape.
• Paving slabs (quantity is calculated by the manufacturer based on quadrature).

• Border
• Cement

• Strong elastic thread
• Metal pegs
• Hammer
• Rubber hammer

• Shovel
• Long Rule
• Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
• Tamping
• Wheelbarrow
• Level
• Master OK
• Buckets
• Broom
• Grinder with diamond blade for cutting concrete

• Knee pads

Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise after rain there will be water in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you decide to follow this advice, then the street level is taken as the zero point.

Along zero line(the line to which the platform will be inclined), drive two metal pegs into the ground and stretch a thread between them. Check horizontality using a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.

Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so much that the second end is slightly above the zero line. This can be checked using a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level as the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontalness using a level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.

Connect the first and last pegs with a thread. As a result, you will get a rectangle, marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.

Now we need to divide our surface into strips. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the stripe should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same on the opposite side. Connect the pegs with a thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. In the same way, divide the entire area into strips.

Now you need to level the site relative to the markings. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where the holes are too large, add more. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two thicknesses of the tile. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.

The soil, especially where it was added, must be thoroughly compacted. A tamper is used for this. In our case, the tamper was made independently from a crane arm with a welded handle.

When the area is leveled, you can begin laying paving slabs.

Prepare a sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a pile of sand directly on the ground, gradually mixing cement into it in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is wet, so it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and quite damp.

Distribute the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.

Tamp down thoroughly.

Lay steel pipes under the threads marking the boundaries of the strip. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.

Wear shoes and pants that you don't mind getting ruined, and don't forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, pass the rule under them and run along the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.

Fill required quantity cement-sand mixture. Start compacting it with your hands while simultaneously stretching the rule. You will have a smooth strip, ready for installation. You can take a little cement-sand mixture and sprinkle it over the leveled area.

Prepare and carefully inspect the tiles, lay them in stacks near the prepared area. The tiles are mostly smooth, but there are some defects. Some tiles can be convex (turtle), concave (plate), or curved (propeller). It is better not to use such tiles and put them aside as a last resort.

Lay one tile, carefully aligning it along the marking axes.

Tap the tile with a rubber hammer, pushing it into the ground to the marking level.

Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of laying the tiles is selected depending on the tile pattern.

Start laying paving slabs from yourself. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on the newly laid tiles.

Prepare the base in the same way and lay the next strip of paving slabs.

If there are any obstacles on the way (in our case gas pipe And sewer hatch), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and fitting is best done at the end.

After each working day, the tiles need to be swept. When laying, gaps form between the tiles that need to be filled. It is the process of filling the cracks that is called sweeping. For sweeping we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tiles, and then sweep with a broom several times, filling the cracks.

Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, colored tiles may remain white coating from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases advise sweeping with clean sand. If in doubt, you can avoid using a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.

Paving slabs are often used to arrange the area near the house. This coating has a number of advantages, because it is not only functional, but also has an aesthetic appearance. The cost of the tiles is not too high, and the installation technology is quite simple. You can use it to decorate a path, a porch of a house, or an entire yard with your own hands without the use of special tools, the main thing is to know how to lay it correctly.

Methods for laying paving slabs in the country

Anyone who is ready to approach the matter as responsibly and carefully as possible can lay paving slabs evenly. But so that the resulting coating does not begin to sag and individual pieces begin to fall out, then it is very important to carry out on which construction will take place. The tiles can be laid on:

• concrete;
• sand or screenings;
• earthen soil.

Tools and technology for laying paving slabs

Laying on concrete

This method provides that poured concrete will serve as a cushion. This method is chosen when strong pressure will be applied to the paved path. For example, if there is a parking lot for trucks there. Any other surface as a base simply will not be able to withstand the pressure and will begin to sag, which will lead to the formation of pits.

Often laying in this way occurs not only because of the need to obtain a heavy-duty coating, but also when concrete has already been poured on the construction site and there is no desire to remove it.

If a decision has been made that has not yet been filled, then care must be taken to ensure drainage of sediment. When rain or melted snow collects on a tiled surface, it begins to seep between the joints. When there is ordinary sand or soil underneath, the water easily goes down. In the case of concrete, this will not work and precipitation will remain in all the cracks of the coating, and when frost hits, the ice will simply squeeze out the tiles or even destroy them. To prevent this from happening, you need to provide drainage holes on the surface of the concrete. They are made in quantities of one per sq.m. Before pouring the solution, you need to install vertical tubes, which will be higher in height than the concrete level. When cement mortar Once completely hardened, they can be pulled out.

In the case when concrete surface is already ready, then you can punch these drains with a puncher or manually. After preparing the hard base, A layer of sifted sand and cement should be laid, about 10 cm high. The paving slabs will be laid directly on it.

The dry sand-cement mixture is mixed in a ratio of 6:1. When placed on a hard concrete base, there is no need to use a vibrating plate. Of course, it is necessary to compact the mixture, and for this purpose the usual wooden log with handles.

Installation on a bed of sand or screenings

Landscaping paths by laying paving stones on a sand bed or screening is the most popular method. Its advantage is that It easily allows water to pass through, and therefore is not subject to destruction when it freezes. Sand and screenings are very bulk materials, and in order for the paving stones to remain in place after installation, they must first be compacted well.

To do this, it is very convenient to use a vibrating plate, which will be the key to high-quality work. The manual compaction method is suitable for those that will be used as pedestrians. If a car is to be parked on the surface being installed, then you need to try very hard to prepare a reliable substrate for it without the use of special equipment.

Initially removed upper layer soil by 20 cm, and the resulting depression is compacted. If the tile is high, then you need to remove it more land, since the resulting alley will rise greatly. Next, a 5 cm layer of sand is poured and also rolled tightly. Trenches are dug along the perimeter into which the curb is inserted and fixed concrete mortar. The laying area is covered with geotextiles.

On next stage 10-20 cm high. For ease of operation, it can be watered, which will facilitate the next tamping process. Next, a layer of wet coarse sand is poured onto which the paving stones are laid. Before this, it must be leveled using a ruler. The tiles laid out according to the pattern are not fixed to each other, and to do this, a dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto it and rubbed into the cracks with a brush.

Only use a rubber hammer to compact the tiles as they may crack.

Laying on earthen soil

This method is used only when creating decorative tracks on garden plot, which will be practically not subject to loads. It is strictly not recommended to lay tiles simply on the ground if the resulting coating will be actively used. The result of the work done may soon turn into an ordinary pile of paving stones.

Large area tiles are selected for the work; preference is usually given to those that imitate stones. It is laid out along the perimeter of the future. The distance between the tiles should be approximately one step. The outlines of each tile are drawn on the surface of the earth, after which they are removed and holes are dug along the outlined outline.

Excess soil is removed and tiles are laid in its place. To ensure that it is well compacted into the prepared place, lie on it wooden block and strikes with a heavy hammer. The result is a path in which paving stones are located at a distance of one step. You can walk on it in wet weather without the risk of getting into the mud.

Grass will grow in the open areas of the path; to make it easier to mow, you need to press the paving stones into the ground a little more. As a result, even a lawn mower will never be able to break its blades on hard surface, because he will not contact her.

Mortar laying technology

Between each other using dry cement mixtures, is not the only method. You can use liquid solutions that will completely eliminate the need for periodic compaction of each new layer. In this way, you can ensure reliable fixation of each tile, but if you make a mistake during installation, then after the solution has hardened, it will be very difficult to correct it.

When using solutions, moisture will not be able to escape through the path, so It is important to maintain the correct geometry to avoid. It is best if the surface of the sidewalk or alley has a convex shape with an elevation in the center. Then the moisture will easily run off the path.

Can be used as a basis for mounting on a solution concrete covering or crushed stone. Preparing a crushed stone substrate involves removing the top layer of soil by 15-20 cm. After which the site is compacted and geotextiles are laid on it. Curbs are installed around the perimeter and concreted. Crushed stone is poured on top in a layer of 10-25 cm.

The solution is prepared on the basis of M150 cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. The mixture is placed on the pillow with a spatula in a layer of 2-3 cm, and the tiles are placed on top. The work is carried out strictly according to the level with utmost care. It’s even easier when the paving stones are laid on asphalt or concrete, especially when the surface is flat. Then the paving stones are simply glued to them using the proposed solution, or tile adhesive.

In order for the resulting concrete to set better and dry evenly, the surface of the cushion must be moistened generously.

This method of fixing to a solution is suitable for a gazebo. This is due to the fact that excessive use of compaction equipment near the foundation of buildings is undesirable, as this can cause cracks. In addition, with this installation method, rainfall that flows from the roof of the house will not be able to penetrate underground and cause the foundation to become wet from below.

If work is carried out in gazebos or on the porch, then you can use thin tiles 2-4 cm. This is due to the fact that it will not be subject to too much pressure and this thickness is quite enough.

Laying granite paving slabs

Granite paving stones have different shapes, so it is not as easy to work with as tiles made from cement. For installation, prepare sand or, described earlier. But it is not wet sand that is poured on top of the crushed stone, but a cement-sand mixture at a ratio of 1:3. Cement of the M500 brand is used, which has stronger fastening properties than M150 and is better able to fix uneven surface paving stones.

The paving stones must be securely fixed at the edges, so it is very important to fix the curb with cement mortar.

After laying it, the seams are covered with the same sand-cement mixture. During installation, it is difficult to work with a regular water level, since paving stones do not always have an ideal geometry like artificial tiles. To facilitate the alignment process, you need to use a stretched cord.

The slope for precipitation drainage must be at least 5%, and the cord must be tensioned taking into account this requirement.

Weather conditions for maximum efficiency

When paving tiles using dry mixtures, the weather should be without precipitation and high humidity. You need to roughly calculate the time it will take to carry out the work and adjust your plans with the weather forecast. If the sand-cement mixture gets wet, even before the tiles are fully laid and finally compacted, this will not only disrupt the technology, but also ruin The final stage paving.

Tile paving should be done in dry and warm weather.

You can't work when sub-zero temperature, since under such conditions the materials have different properties when compacted. If there is moisture in them, they will become compacted under the action of the vibrating plate, and with the arrival of heat they will soften and the coating will begin to go deeper.

If you use liquid solutions to fix the tiles, and the base is concrete screed, then weather conditions do not play a special role. Of course, working in cold weather is unacceptable, but low humidity in the air will not harm.

Video: how to lay tiles correctly with your own hands

This video will tell you how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

The proposed methods and methods for laying paving slabs have their advantages and disadvantages for certain conditions. The cost of the work depends on the choice of paving stone thickness and the type of soil at the construction site. In areas with dense black soil, geotextiles can be abandoned, which will reduce the cost. If the tiles are laid exclusively for pedestrians, then you need a crushed stone cushion of only 7-10 cm.

Estimate the cost of laying the sidewalk before the study construction site impossible. But if you do all the work yourself, without involving professionals, you can save at least on the cost of paying for their labor.

One of the most popular and simple ways decoration of the house adjoining private territory is the use of paving slabs. Its prevalence is due to its spectacular appearance, durability, and ease of care. Let's figure out how to choose and prepare necessary materials and how to lay paving slabs so that they last as long as possible.

Decorative tiles have an impressive appearance and are easy to use. Source blokstroy-spb.ru

Criterias of choice

When choosing suitable material First of all, you need to focus on its cost. High quality tiles, which will last for several decades, is made mainly from natural raw materials and has a relatively high price. The following types of raw materials are most often used in the manufacture of finishing materials:

hard and soft varieties of natural stone;

fake diamond;

polymer sand mixtures;

concrete mixtures;

firing materials.

An additional criterion for choosing a finishing material is the thickness of the tile. To design, for example, narrow paths, it is quite possible to choose a material whose thickness does not exceed 0.4 - 0.6 cm. If you are laying a road or parking lot, you need to choose especially durable tiles, the thickness of which varies over 0.8 cm.

Mixed concrete tiles Source plitkaoskol.ru

Required Tools

Before laying paving slabs, you should prepare in advance Additional materials and tools that will be useful primarily when performing work, for example:

• curbs, which can be either plastic or stone;

  crushed stone, the fraction of which should not be more than 40 mm;

  geotextiles;

• manual concrete mixer, however, in the absence of one, you can do without it;

As for the amount of materials required to design the paths, before carrying out the work it is necessary to carry out preliminary calculations, taking into account the characteristics of the soil, the area of ​​the territory, and the features of operation.

Step-by-step instruction

In order to exclude possible mistakes in work and to prevent damage to materials, before laying paving slabs, it is recommended to carefully read detailed instructions this process.

For getting high-quality coating it is important to follow the algorithm below for completing the work Source serp-art.ru

Marking

Immediately before starting work, you should mark the future territory or paths, which will subsequently be tiled. To do this, it is necessary to draw up a detailed schematic drawing on the site plan, taking into account the presence of plantings, buildings, and shrubs. When drawing up a plan, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the site, the presence of slopes and lowlands in which rainwater accumulates.

Second important nuance drawing up a diagram - calculating the width of the tracks. The best option– 1 – 1.3 m. This width allows two people to move freely on the path. If you plan to create a road for a car, it is important to take into account that in addition to the vehicle, there may also be a person on the paved area, that is, the width in this case should not be less than 2.3 - 2.5 m.

After drawing up the diagram, you can begin marking paths directly on the territory of the area being improved. This must be done using a tape measure, rope and pegs. When installing pegs, it is necessary to add 10 - 15 cm on each side to the width of the path - this distance will be necessary in the future for installing curbs.

The first stage when laying tiles is marking Source optolov.ru

On our website you can find contacts construction companies that offer. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Excavation

Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to remove protective layer from the one selected for carrying out finishing works plot. The process in this case depends entirely on the characteristics of the soil. For example, if the top layer is made of dense clay, it is enough to simply level the surface to be treated. In other situations, it is necessary to remove at least 25–30 cm of turf or soil. Next, you need to pour a layer of sand no more than 3–5 cm thick, level and compact the surface.

The next stage involves laying geotextiles on the compacted surface of the paths. This process is not mandatory, but experts recommend including it in the algorithm of work being carried out. Geotextiles prevent the germination of weeds, soil shrinkage, and moisture penetration during spring floods.

When laying textiles, it is important to observe the following principle: the canvases must overlap each other at a distance of at least 15 - 20 cm. When decorating the edges of the path, it is also important to take into account the above rule. The use of geotextiles and their proper installation will significantly increase the life of the paths.

Before the main work, you need to remove the turf and dig a shallow ditch Source sovetclub.ru

Drainage

The next step before laying paving slabs with your own hands is preparing the drainage system. At this stage, it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone onto the textile-lined base, the volume of which should be about 12 - 14 cm. Laying it is necessary to absorb moisture, the freezing of which during cold weather can lead to the formation of unevenness and pits on the surface of the paths.

The crushed stone must be thoroughly compacted, then lightly sprinkled with sand, leveled and covered with a second layer of textile base, following the instructions given above. Laying textiles is especially necessary if the area to be improved is located in a lowland. The material will allow water to pass through, preventing its penetration onto the surface.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Installation of curbs

After completing the drainage work, it is necessary to install curbs. For work you can use various materials, including slate, artificial and a natural stone, wooden elements, bricks. The mandatory requirement in this case is that finishing material for curbs it was flat.

Within construction market Concrete and plastic piece curbs are especially popular. They are easy to install, look great and high level wear resistance. When choosing borders, it is recommended to take into account their compatibility with tiles.

One of the most popular types of curbs is made of concrete Source vopros-remonta-info.ru

One of important stages when laying – prepare the base. The strength of the paths, as well as the external qualities, depend on the correctness of the work carried out. The type of foundation should be selected in accordance with the expected level of load on the area being improved. For example, before laying paving slabs with your own hands to design paths that are not expected to bear significant loads, it is recommended to pour a sand base.

Source dinerocelo.weebly.com

If significant loads are expected on the surface of the tiles to be laid, for example, use as a parking lot, it is reasonable to choose a concrete base. It is the most durable, provides a long service life, but requires quite complex work. So, how to lay paving slabs by arranging a concrete base? In this case, it is important to follow the following recommendations:

Step one. The most important task is to reinforce the base. For this purpose, you can use either a ready-made mesh, the cell size of which is 10 by 10 cm, or suitable leftovers building materials, fittings, scrap metal. Before reinforcement, it is necessary to drive metal or wooden pegs into the ground so that the grid is 3–5 cm above the surface.

Step two. Next, the concrete is poured directly. This must be done in such a way that the surface of the concrete base is located at least 3 cm below the ground surface - this is the distance required for laying decorative tiles. Filling must be done at one time - it is important to take this into account and prepare a sufficient volume of the mixture in advance.

Source kirpich174.ru

After pouring the concrete, be sure to wait several days until the mixture sets and becomes sufficiently hard.

Video description

You can see the technology of laying tiles on a concrete base in the video:

The most common option for decorative pedestrian paths called a mixture of cement and sand. This type involves laying elements on a dry base made of sand-cement mixture. To prepare it you must follow following proportions: 1 part cement and 5 parts sand. Optimal thickness the base in this case should not be less than 10 cm.

When choosing this base, it is especially important to first familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to correctly lay paving slabs. Decorative elements in this case are laid strictly on a dry surface, that is, before filling the ditches for paths with the mixture, it is important to make sure that there will be no rain for two to three days. However, immediately before laying the tiles, it is necessary to slightly moisten the mixture and compact it additionally; this measure will significantly simplify the work process.

Source plitka-pol.ru

Video description

Video about laying tiles on sand:

Processing of decorative tiles

The next recommendation on how to properly lay paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in another area is to treat individual elements with compounds that will significantly increase the performance of the material, its wear resistance, and ensure moisture and frost resistance. Hydrophobic compounds are used for treatment, which also effectively protect elements from the appearance of mold stains and improve appearance decorative coating in general.

The tile processing process is quite lengthy. It involves dipping each element one by one into a pre-prepared composition, then drying it thoroughly and repeating the procedure. When processing tiles, it is also recommended to inspect each element for cracks or chips. There is no need to throw away damaged tiles; they are quite suitable for laying on inconspicuous surfaces.

Laying decorative tiles

After a long and careful preparation We have finally come to the most important and responsible stage - laying the decorative coating. Some features of the work depend on what type of base the elements are placed on. So, how to lay paving slabs correctly:

The laying of individual elements on concrete is carried out using the “on-your-own” method, that is, the work must be carried out by placing it on an already completed surface. Laying is carried out on a mortar made of cement. It is important to take into account that the thickness of the seams is no more than 3 mm, and they should be filled completely. After completing the process, it is important to additionally fill the seams with liquid mortar; this measure will provide special strength to the coating, turning it into a kind of monolith.

Laying on a base of sand or a mixture of sand and cement is carried out in compliance with slightly different operating principles. In this case, they should be performed while on the sand, laying and complementing the already finished decorative base in front of you. The seams are filled with a mixture of cement and clean sand prepared in a percentage ratio of 1:5. When choosing this method, it is especially important to carefully adjust the elements to each other, tapping them with a hammer and completely filling the seams. After completing the work, it is necessary to water the coating with water, leave it until dry, repeat the procedure at least three times, adding a small amount of the mixture if necessary.

Tiles laid in compliance with all rules will last for many years Source market.sakh.com

Concrete-based tiles are particularly durable, easy to maintain, and have a long service life. This decorative coating not afraid of high loads, shifts temperature conditions. Its only drawback is its relatively high cost.

Video description

Clearly step by step installation tiles in the following video:

Conclusion

Above are tips and recommendations on how to properly lay paving slabs, following which you can easily cope with the work yourself. However, it is important to remember that any work to prepare the base and directly lay decorative elements Requires minimum practical skills. If there are none, it is better to entrust the work to specialists who will do it not only efficiently, but also quickly.