In the article we will talk about how to do electrical work in the house with your own hands; wiring diagrams will also be considered. If a couple of decades ago the load on the electrical networks of cities and even villages was insignificant, today the picture is the opposite. A lot of high power household appliances - washing machines, multicookers, split systems and more.

The load on electrical networks has increased many times. And while the city has some reserve, the wiring of a private house does not have this, therefore, an increase in load leads to the fact that the wires cannot withstand and begin to collapse. Consequently, the question arises that the electrics in the apartment and house should not only be repaired with their own hands, but also changed completely.

Previously, wiring in houses was done according to the simplest scheme - a switch and socket for each room, but in modern conditions this turns out to be too little - you want to turn on three chargers, a laptop, a TV, and so on. To do the wiring in your house yourself, you need to know certain rules and standards that should be followed during installation. You will also learn how to make a wiring diagram, how to wire it correctly with your own hands, and the requirements for it.

Regulations

Construction materials and all activities of builders are regulated by certain rules and requirements, they are called GOST and SNiP. The Electrical Installation Rules (hereinafter PUE) also apply to electrical wiring in houses and buildings. It is this regulatory document that prescribes all the requirements for electrical equipment, thoroughly indicating what to do with it and how. All electrics in the apartment and house are connected to voltage with their own hands only after all checks for the presence of short circuit.

Requirements for electrical wiring in private houses and apartments

If you decide to make the electrical wiring in your home yourself, you need to carefully study all the requirements for it. But the main attention should be paid to the following points:

1. The main components of electrical wiring (distribution boxes, switches, sockets, meters) must be made easily accessible. It is quite easy to install wiring in the house with your own hands. Electrics, however, are demanding from a safety point of view. But all the rules can be easily followed.
2. According to the PUE, switches must be installed at a level of 0.6-1.5 meters from the floor surface. Moreover, you need to pay attention to the fact that when opening the doors they should not create an obstacle. For example, if the door opens to the right, then the switch should be located on the left. And if the door opens to the left, then the switch is mounted on the right. The cable must be routed to the switch from above.
3. Sockets are mounted at a level of 0.5-0.8 meters from the floor surface. The fact is that it needs to be located at this level for safety reasons when the house is flooded. Moreover, a distance of at least 0.5 m must be maintained from a gas or electric stove, heating radiators, pipes (and other objects that are grounded). The wires go to all sockets from bottom to top. This is exactly how you do it yourself. Wiring diagrams are given in the article.
4. For every 6 sq. m. area of ​​the room there should be one socket. The exception is the kitchen, in which as many sockets are installed as necessary (based on the number of household appliances located in it). It is prohibited to install sockets in the toilet, but in the bathroom it is allowed only if there is isolation through a transformer (220 Volts are supplied to the primary winding, and the same amount is removed from the secondary winding). The transformer is installed outside the bathroom.
5. Before starting work, you need to make a wiring plan and clearly indicate its location in the walls. Please note that all wires must be located either horizontally or vertically - but not diagonally or in a broken line. This is not how you should do the wiring in your house yourself. The connection diagram of all devices must take this feature into account.
6. There must be a certain distance from ceilings, pipes and other obstacles. For example, you need to maintain a distance of 5-10 cm from the beams, and the same from the cornices. You need to maintain approximately 15 cm from the ceiling, 15-20 cm from the floor. If we're talking about about vertical surfaces, then from door and window openings there should be at least 10 cm. But between gas pipe and wiring must maintain a distance of more than 0.4 m.
7. External or hidden wiring should not touch metal parts of any structures.
8. If several wires run in parallel, the distance between them must be maintained in excess of three millimeters. Alternative option- hide each wire in a protective box or corrugation. This is how you install electrical wiring in a house yourself. Schemes should be drawn up with this in mind.
9. Wires should be connected and routed in special distribution boxes. All joints must be carefully insulated, and one feature must be taken into account - it is prohibited to connect copper and aluminum wires. If you make wiring from copper wire, then make it all from it, there should not be any sections made of aluminum.
10. Grounding (including zero wires) must be secured to all devices using bolted connections.

These are the requirements that all electricians ask for. You can create connection diagrams with your own hands only if you take into account all these rules and regulations.

House electrical wiring project

The first thing you need to do is create an electrical wiring project, this is where it all starts. You will use it as a starting point during installation. Of course, it will be much better if it is done for you by experienced technicians who have been involved in this business for many years. But if you have experience, go for it.

But keep in mind that your safety depends on how the project is made. You definitely need to know which symbols used in drawing up diagrams and projects. It is worth noting that Russian standards They are quite different from European or American ones, so you should not use foreign schemes in the conditions of our country. All electrical installations in the house are designed with your own hands (diagrams are given in the article) at the initial stage.

Draw a plan of a house or apartment, mark on it the places where sockets, switches, chandeliers, etc. will be installed. The number of electrical appliances was discussed a little below. At this stage the main objective- create a diagram on which all installation locations of devices will be indicated. The second part is to outline the places for laying wires around the apartment. Of course, you need to know in what places the household appliances will be placed.

Wiring

Then wire all the wires. And if creating a diagram with the location of consumers is a simple matter, it is worth going into more detail at this stage of work. Three types of connections and wiring can be used:

1. Consistent.
2. Parallel.
3. Mixed.

The third one is considered the most attractive from the point of view of saving materials.

Do-it-yourself electrical work in the house (mixed type circuits) with the highest possible efficiency. To make your work easier, ungroup:

1. Lighting of corridors, living quarters, kitchens.
2. Bathroom and toilet (lighting).
3. Sockets in living rooms, corridors.
4. Sockets in the kitchen.
5. Electric stove socket (if necessary).

Please note that this simplest option groups of electricity consumers. The fewer groups, the less materials will be used. The above example is the simplest and most economical. You can make it more complicated: literally connect electrical wiring to every outlet, for example. You begin to understand a little about how to install electrical wiring in a private home with your own hands.

To simplify the installation of electrical wiring, it can be mounted under the floor (for sockets). In the case of overhead lighting, installation can be carried out in floor slabs. Ideal for the “lazy” method - there is no need to groove the walls and ceiling. And on the plan diagram this type Wiring must be marked with dotted lines.

Calculation of current consumption

It is imperative to take into account the current strength that will flow through the network. For this there is simple formula: current strength is the ratio of the total power of all consumers to voltage (we can say that this is a constant, since the voltage standard in our country is 220 Volts). Let's say you have the following consumers:

1. Electric kettle with a power of 2000 W.
2. A dozen incandescent lamps, each 60 W (total 600 W).
3. Microwave oven with a power of 1000 W.
4. Refrigerator with a power of 400 W.

The mains voltage is 220 V, the total power is 2000+600+1000+400, that is, 4000 W. Dividing this value by the network voltage, we get 16.5 A. But if you look at practical data, in apartments and houses the maximum current consumption rarely reaches 25 Amperes.

Based on this parameter, it is necessary to select all materials for installation. In particular, it depends on the current strength. Please note that you should always take a margin of 25%. In other words, if you have calculated a current consumption of 16 A, you cannot install a fuse with the same trip current value. You have to choose standard value more than calculated.

Wire brands for home use

Now let's talk about how the electrical system is installed in the house. The cable (the PUE rules regulate all its parameters) must be selected based on the current characteristics. It is advisable that the wiring in a house or apartment be made of the following materials:

1. Wire brand VVG-5X6. This wire consists of five cores, each with a cross-section of 6 square meters. mm. It is widely used for houses that have a three-phase network to connect the lighting panel to the main one.
2. VVG-2X6 has two cores with a cross section of 6 square meters. mm. Widely used for single-phase power houses to connect the lighting panel and the main one.
3. The VVG-3X2.5 wire has three cores, each with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm. Used to connect lighting boards with distribution boxes. Also from boxes to sockets.
4. Brand VVG-3X1.5 has three cores, each with a cross-section of 1.5 square meters. mm. Used for connecting switches and lighting lamps.
5. Brand three-core, cross-section of each core 4 sq. mm. Used to connect electric stoves.

Material Quantity Calculations

Now you consider what components (including small ones) the electrical wiring in the house consists of. Do-it-yourself project, wiring, installation, is done quite quickly. True, you will have to try hard to count the amount of wire as accurately as possible. To do this, according to the plan, walk around the apartment with a tape measure. After taking measurements, add four meters on top - there will be no excess margin.

At the entrance to the house all the wires from the house go to it. It installs automatic switches. Please note that the machines must have a maximum operating current of 16 or 20 Amps. must be connected via a separate circuit breaker. With a power of up to 7 kW, a 32 A automatic machine is used, with a higher power - 63 A.

Then you count the number of distribution boxes and sockets, there is nothing complicated in this matter, this is done according to the diagram drawn up earlier. In the future, you will need various “little things”, for example, insulating tape, lugs, tubes, cable ducts, boxes, thermal insulation, and others. Now it’s worth talking about what tools are used to install wiring in a house with your own hands. The scheme is discussed in some detail.

Tools for work

When carrying out, always adhere to safety regulations. In order not to get confused, it is better to do it yourself, but if you have a partner, then the help should be minimal - give it, bring it, don’t interfere. You will need the following tool:

1. Multimeter.
2. Hammer.
3. Bulgarian.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Pliers.
6. Wire cutters.
7. Curly and flat screwdrivers.
8. Level.

If you are carrying out repairs in old apartment and at the same time changing the wiring, you need to pull out all the cables so that they do not interfere. For this work, a special electrical wiring detection sensor is useful.

Marking the location of wires

Place marks on the wall where you will route the wires. Pay attention to whether the position of the wires complies with the rules. After you have marked the places where the electrical cables will pass, you can mark out the sockets, boxes, panels and switches. Please note that in new apartments there is a niche for installing the shield. And in old houses, the panels are simply attached to the wall.

Wall scoring

First of all, install a special attachment on the hammer drill and drill holes for installing distribution boxes, switches and sockets. To lay wires, it is necessary to make grooves in the walls - grooves. They are made using a grinder or a hammer drill. Whatever method you choose, there will be enough dirt and dust. The groove should have a depth of 2 cm. As for the width, it should be enough to lay all the wires. As you understand, wiring electrical wiring yourself is not a difficult task; from a physical point of view, it is more difficult to do the installation.

A separate story with the ceiling. If you plan to make it hanging, then simply install all the wires on the ceiling. This is the easiest way. It’s a little more difficult to make a shallow groove. And one more thing - hide it in the ceiling. For example, in panel houses such floors are used in which there are internal voids. Therefore, two holes are enough to route the wires. And the last thing is to punch holes in the corners of the rooms to bring the wires to the central panel. Then you proceed to closed (you will have to groove the walls) or open methods.

Conclusion

The most important thing in installing electrical wiring in houses and apartments is to adhere to all norms and rules in accordance with GOST, SNiP, PUE. This way you can not only achieve maximum efficiency from electrical wiring, but also reliability, durability, and most importantly, safety. And try to use only quality materials. For example, it is advisable to use copper wires - they have a much longer service life (better conductivity, heat less).

Are you familiar with the basics of electrical engineering firsthand and have repeatedly encountered electricity in practice? Then new wiring in the house or apartment small area will not become an insurmountable obstacle - you can easily install it with your own hands. To do everything correctly, you need to understand the nuances of electrical installation and determine the order of work. This material is aimed at covering these issues in an accessible form.

Drawing up a wiring diagram

Let’s make a reservation right away: we are talking about a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, which is already connected to a private house with an area of ​​100-150 m² or an apartment. Specialized organizations are engaged in the design and installation of three-phase 380 V electrical networks for large country cottages. In this case, it makes no sense to take on the electrical wiring yourself, since without a power supply project and agreed-upon as-built documentation, the management company will not allow you to connect to its communications.

So, pictured above typical diagram electrical wiring for a residential building includes the following elements (starting from cable entry):

• input circuit breaker rated 25 amperes;
• electric meter (preferably multi-tariff);
• residual current device - RCD, designed for an operating current of 300 mA;
• a 20 A differential circuit breaker, triggered at a leakage current of 30 mA, to protect the socket network;
• automatic switches rated 10 A for lighting (the number depends on the number of lines to the lamps);
• electrical cabinet equipped with a neutral and grounding bus, as well as DIN rails for mounting automatic machines and RCDs:
• cable lines with distribution boxes leading to sockets for connecting household appliances and lighting fixtures.

Note. According to the PUE, the power supply to a bathroom, bathhouse, sauna and other rooms with high humidity must be provided by a separate line, protected by an RCD or a circuit breaker with a response threshold of 10 mA.

The functional purpose of the listed elements is as follows. Circuit breakers protect branches or the system as a whole from short circuits, RCDs protect you from electric shock, and a differential circuit breaker combines these 2 functions. The latter must be installed on each power line. To protect household electrical appliances from voltage surges, you can supplement the circuit with a protective relay installed after the main RCD, as the master explains in the video:

To make a complete electrification scheme, you need to draw a house plan by hand and place lighting fixtures with sockets on it. Indicate the location of the electrical panel and spread the wiring from it along the walls, marking each pair (phase and zero) with one line, as electricians do (called a single-line diagram). An example of such a sketch is shown in the picture.

Reference. In private houses and cottages switchboard usually placed in a technical room, for example, in a garage, sometimes in a corridor. The same picture is observed in multi-storey new buildings. In Soviet-era houses - "Khrushchev" and "Czech" - apartment panels were massively installed in the entrances, but then the owners began to move them to their hallways in order to protect themselves from theft of meters.

Preparation of materials

To purchase the necessary installation materials and determine their number, take the compiled electrical diagram as a basis. The control, protection and metering elements located in the panel are already indicated on it; all that remains is to select cable products and socket boxes (switches and sockets themselves can be purchased later). The recommendations in this regard are:

1. For electrical wiring, use copper cable brand VVG with 3 solid cores and its varieties. Do not take aluminum and stranded wires(for example, PVA) intended for other purposes.
2. Copper electrical wiring in an apartment or private house that powers lighting fixtures must have a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm². The socket network must be made with a 2.5 mm² cable, and the connection of the ground loop must be made with a cross-section of 6 mm².
3. If it is necessary to draw an external line from a pole to a building, use a 16 mm² self-supporting SIP wire and special hanging brackets.
4. For hidden gasket cables, use a metal hose or plastic corrugated pipe of the appropriate diameter (the wires should occupy no more than 40% of the cavity of the protective sleeve), fixed with latches or clamps.
5. Do not provide many single indoor sockets in different places; it is better to place a couple of blocks with 4-5 plugs. For the kitchen, one group of 5 sockets is enough.
6. The number of junction boxes is calculated according to the diagram below, which shows the correct installation of wiring. The box is placed on each branch from the main line.

Advice. For power lines loaded with installations with a power exceeding 3.5 kW, the cable cross-section should be selected according to calculation. We recommend that you resolve this issue with specialists, since the introductory machine and other equipment will also have to be selected individually and you cannot do without a power supply project.

Before calculating the quantity of cable products, consider the method of laying the electrical wiring. The best option– route the conductors behind the ceiling and wall sheathing made of plasterboard, in the floor or under the baseboard. This approach will help protect communications from damage during subsequent repairs and can be easily implemented in one-room and two-room apartments panel houses.

IN wooden houses, built from timber or frame technology, internal wiring is practiced open type- on insulators or in plastic channels, as shown in the photo. In this case, it is more convenient to lay a network from a flat type of cable - VVG-P. Don’t forget about low-current lines - twisted pair for the Internet, alarms, and so on, they also need to be routed between rooms.

It is also worth mentioning the retro-style electrical wiring, which harmoniously fits into the interior of any wooden home, including a log home. But keep in mind that the price of components is three times higher than conventional materials, and the installation method shown in the video requires some skills.

Minimum tool kit

To install or replace electrical wiring with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

• grinder with circles on concrete for making furrows in brick or plastered walls;
• a hammer and chisel to cut out the nests of socket boxes;
• nippers, pliers;
• roulette and building level;
• narrow metal spatula;
• screwdrivers with various slots;
• cable cutting knife.

Advice. Instead of a regular knife, it is better to use a special tool, a sample of which is shown in the photo. It is equipped with a small heel at the end, which allows you to strip the insulation from the wires without damaging the copper conductors and is safe for your hands.

Electrical panel installation

As a rule, this important stage of work is performed by a specialist – an electrician. But in a small residential or country house for several rooms you can solve the problem yourself if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. Secure the box to the wall near the cable entry. Installation height – 1.5 m above the floor. If necessary, hollow out a recess in the wall.
2. Place DIN rails for mounting the machines and 2 busbars for connecting the neutral (N) and ground (PE) wires. Lead the external cable through the hole, cut it and connect the “zero” to the bus. Repeat this action with the grounding conductor.
3. Secure the RCD, meter and all machines. Connect the neutral and phase from the power cable to the contacts of the input packet.
4. Execute internal wiring according to the diagram, using an insulated single-core wire with a cross-section of 6 mm². For reliable contact with the terminals of circuit breakers, place special fork-shaped tips on the exposed wires.

Advice. When installing conductors, observe the color markings indicating their identity. The neutral line is indicated in blue, grounding is yellow-green, and the phase is most often brown, black or red.

When purchasing and installing a cabinet for an electrical panel, you also need to take care of the placement of backup circuit breakers, which may be useful later. Therefore, there should be 3-4 free slots on the rail. All the nuances of assembling this important organ are described in the video:

How to install wiring

In past times, electrical networks were laid along the walls before applying the plaster layer and secured with alabaster mortar. Now other methods are used for installation, namely, installation in gates 2 cm deep, cut into plaster or aerated concrete. The technology is like this:

1. Using a level and a tapping cord, mark the route of each line, starting from the electrical panel. Remember that hidden electrical wiring in the house must run strictly vertically and horizontally, and turn at right angles. Mark the installation points for sockets and switches.
2. Make grooves along the markings, observing the width of the groove for a single wire - 2 cm. Cut out recesses for socket boxes and distribution boxes.
3. Install socket boxes and boxes on dowels or alabaster mortar. Try to maintain a horizontal line so that the sockets stand level. Do not forget to cut technological openings on the sides for cable entry.
4. Treat the gates with a primer and place pre-measured pieces of cable in them and bring its ends inside all the boxes. The conductors are fixed in the groove with a solution or special spacers at intervals of 40 cm.
5. Separate the ends of the wires in junction boxes and color-code them with WAGO or terminal blocks.
6. Bare the wires in the socket boxes, put lugs on them and connect them to sockets and switches.
7. Check the functionality of each line with a multimeter, then connect it to the panel and seal the grooves.

Important point. The lighting wiring is connected as follows: blue wire (N) - to the zero bus, yellow-green (PE) - to the ground bus, the remaining conductor - to the machine. The phase and neutral from the socket network are connected to contacts 1 and 2 of the differential circuit breaker, the grounding is connected to its bus.

Proper installation of wiring involves laying it according to the rules - with indentations from the floor, ceiling and doorways indicated in the drawing. In the distribution boxes of the socket group, the conductors are switched by color, in the lighting group - in this order:

• zero passes the switch and is immediately supplied to the lamp (to the contact adjacent to the lamp base);
• the phase wire goes through the switch, and then to lighting fixture;
• the ground is connected directly to the corresponding contact of the lamp.

A pair or three pass-through switches are connected to each other and to the power cable according to a different circuit. This is discussed in detail. Watch the tutorial video

For any repairs in an apartment, private house or country house, as well as breakdown of any electrical wiring element, you need to know exactly where the wires go. Otherwise it may lead to additional problems, associated with searching for electrical cables hidden in the wall or, even worse, getting a tool into a live wire. In this case, it is advisable to have a wiring diagram. But as often happens, it is not at hand, since when buying their own home no one is interested in this documentation. Therefore, it is advisable to understand various options power supply, since they are standard in multi-apartment buildings.

Wire connection options

A person who understands what awaits him in the process of independently drawing up an electrical wiring diagram or who directly carries out the work of installing sockets, switches and light sources in his own apartment with his own hands must know the basic ways in which electrical circuits are connected.

If the homeowner is completely clueless about home improvement electrical circuits, then that's it installation work in an apartment, it is better to entrust it to professional electricians, who will draw up a clear plan in a short time, including even the smallest details, which will allow you to save on purchases Supplies.

Video: cable laying diagram in the house

How to install electrical wiring

The choice of scheme must be made with full awareness of the matter. First of all, this is due to the safety rules for using electrical circuits. Today there are three main wiring options.

1. The most popular way of wiring is to connect all the components of the network using distribution boxes. This scheme involves mounting the shield on landing in a specially equipped niche, and not in a living space. The panel contains a device for monitoring consumed electricity and several packets. Electricity is supplied to the apartment via a cable, which is distributed to rooms using distribution boxes.
2. The “Star” wiring diagram implies that each element is connected with a separate line connected directly to the panel through an automatic toggle switch. With such wiring, the wire consumption increases significantly, physical work and the cost of the project as a whole. But having assessed all the advantages and disadvantages, it becomes clear that all costs are justified, since the system provides the opportunity to fully control each consumer separately.
3. The “Loop” diagram is similar to the previous version of the electrical wiring. In this option there is only one distinctive feature, which consists of connecting several consumers to one cable. Thanks to this, the volume of installation work and consumables is reduced, which leads to a reduction in the cost of the project.

In most cases, the wiring diagram involves a combination of several cable routing methods at the same time. At the same time, it is very important to think through everything to the smallest detail in order to ultimately achieve maximum efficiency and safety of the electrical circuit.

Standard scheme

It is advisable to implement all ideas for arranging electrical circuits before starting installation work. detailed diagram laid out on a sheet of paper. In this case, it is important to take into account the layout of each individual room, which will allow you to calculate the number of distribution groups and elements of the electrical network. For convenience, each group can be performed in a separate diagram.

From practice it was revealed that maximum efficiency wiring is achieved by combining consumption sources into several groups, each of which is connected to a separate automatic batcher. Thanks to this technical solution facilitates further repairs and maintenance electrical network without the need to turn off power to the entire apartment. In addition, connecting all consumers to one line is only possible if there is a cable with a large cross-section that can withstand the increased load that occurs when all consumers are turned on simultaneously. electrical appliances in the apartment.

When the panel is placed directly in the living room, it becomes possible to connect electrical appliances to individual circuit breakers. This significantly increases the efficiency and safety of using the electrical network. But, in this case, why has not such a scheme found widespread use? Everything is quite simple - this option of connecting devices to the AC network significantly increases the cost of implementing the project. Therefore, consumers are divided into the following groups:

• lighting group of residential premises and corridor;
• supply of electricity to the rooms;
• electricity supply in the kitchen and hallway;
• supply of light and electricity to the bathroom and bathroom. Wherein this group implies increased danger due to constantly high humidity;
• If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, then its connection must also be made separately.

To ensure maximum safety of electrical installations, each group must be equipped with an RCD - a special protective device, which is nothing more than a differential circuit breaker at maximum current values. It is also necessary to equip the wiring in the bathroom and kitchen with such protective devices.

After the final formation of the main groups, it is necessary to determine in what places the consumers will be placed, such as electric stove, water heater, air conditioner, etc. On next stage mark the installation of switches, distribution boxes, lamps and sockets. In this case, all elements must be included in the electrical wiring diagram, based on which the number of wires can be calculated.

It is very important that circuit diagram The electrical wiring diagram was drawn up in several copies, one of which should be saved for the future. Once all the details have been taken into account, you can draw up a detailed finishing drawing in accordance with the exact plan of each room.

All installation points of electrical elements are marked on the diagram in accordance with the generally accepted notation system and are connected by lines indicating wires. To improve the readability of the diagram different groups It is advisable to mark the wires in different colors.

The diagram must necessarily include all dimensions of the premises, distances from the electrical panel to sockets, switches and lighting sources, etc. Such detailed plan will allow you to carry out high-quality installation work and calculate all the necessary consumables in the shortest possible time, which will make it possible to plan expenses.

Video: electrical wiring diagram in the apartment

In order to correctly make an apartment wiring diagram, you should know some important requirements for laying wires in residential buildings.

1. The bathroom is not supplied with sockets, except for one connected via a transformer for switching on low voltage appliances such as an electric razor.
2. It is unacceptable to connect the grounding of the socket to the neutral terminal. It is also strictly forbidden to ground wiring elements to a battery or water supply. This is unsafe for apartment residents.
3. If the kitchen has a stove connected to the AC network or other powerful consumers, then the main machine must be of a large rating so that false alarms do not occur.
4. Wiring should only be done in a vertical or horizontal direction.
5. Changing the direction of wiring may result in the risk of hitting a live wire with a nail or drill during repairs. Crossing cables is also prohibited.
6. It is important that electric wires passed at a distance of 15 cm from the surface of the floor or ceiling, as well as window and door frames and external corners premises.
7. The distance from the heating or water pipes should not be less than 3 cm. The wiring to the socket should be approached from the bottom, while to the switch from the top.

It is advisable that all sockets and switches installed by yourself be located on the same level. So, for sockets, the acceptable height from the floor is 30 cm, while for switches the height is from 80 cm to 1 m. Naturally, if necessary, these parameters can be changed to suit the needs of the apartment residents.

How to do your own wiring

To lay electrical wires in an apartment, you must strictly follow the prepared diagram. At the same time, there is a certain sequence for carrying out such work with your own hands.

For correct connection of wires uses three various methods- using terminals, soldering or twisting, which can be viewed on video. The first two are considered the most effective to use, since they are considered the most reliable and have a high degree of security, although they are more difficult to do with your own hands.

Video: installation of electrical wiring

Which wires to choose

To properly install electrical wiring in an apartment, you need to buy suitable wires. At the same time, copper cable is considered the best for wiring for the simple reason that it has maximum flexibility, is less brittle and has high current conductivity. It is also more convenient to install, unlike its aluminum counterpart.

In apartments, in most cases, wires with two or three cores are laid with a cross-section of 2.5–3 square mm for sockets and 1.5 for switches and lamps. For more powerful consumers, a separate line with wires larger than 3 mm square is laid, which will allow them not to overheat.

The wiring diagram can easily be drawn up and implemented independently. But responsibility for the quality of its work and the safety of residents will rest with the person who carried out the installation work. Therefore, at least minimal knowledge in this area is welcome.

Video: how to choose the right cable cross-section

If a specialist will install electrical wiring in your home, this information will not become useless for you.

You will need such knowledge in order to monitor whether the installation is carried out correctly and efficiently, and will also help you understand what is needed to carry out such work: materials, tools and equipment.

Among other things, when living in a house, situations arise in which it is necessary to repair or replace individual parts of the electrical wiring in the house, but it is not always possible to call an electrician. This is when you will need this information. Knowing how the electrical wiring was installed, you will definitely have an image, the path where it was laid, what material it was made of, what cross-section of the wires, what load they were designed for.

The appropriate wire size can be determined by dividing the maximum load current by certain area electrical wiring on the current density for this type of conductor, or you can select it using a special table. Those. with a current of 22.7 A and a conductor density of 9 A/mm2, a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 is suitable.

When calculating the total power of energy consumers throughout the house, you need to take into account the fact that usually everything does not turn on at the same time. In this case use demand. In the case when the total power is less than or equal to 14 kW it is 0.8, up to 20 kW - 0.65, up to 50 - 0.5.

Power calculation

How to mark correctly?

Work on marking for installation of electrical wiring begins with marking the main path of wires from the electrical panel, as well as all their turns, branches and passages through. When marking we comply following rules:

Wiring markings with indents

• wires on the wall should be mounted either parallel or perpendicular to the floor;
• marking the path of horizontal sections should be 0.2 m below the ceiling, which will reduce the likelihood of damage to electrical wiring;
• when turning electrical wiring, vertical or horizontal, an angle of 90° must be maintained;
• when installing the route along interfloor or attic floors The path to the lighting devices is marked as shortest from the junction box.

To mark the route, you can resort to help, you can buy it, or you can make it yourself by painting a regular cord with paint, charcoal or chalk.

When marking, one end of the cord is fixed at the starting point, and the other is pulled parallel to the wall or ceiling, pressing it to the end point of the segment. With the other hand, the middle of the cord is pulled back and thrown. When the cord hits a wall or ceiling, it leaves a clear mark.

After the marking is completed, do not rush to throw away wiring diagram electrical wiring, it may be useful in case of repairs.

Connecting box

The installation of junction boxes is marked in places where electrical wiring branches, descending to sockets or switches.

If you plan to install hidden electrical wiring, in this case, mark the points for installation boxes where hidden switches and sockets will be placed.

Switches are usually placed at the entrance to the room on the side door handle, it can be inside, or it can be outside.

Switches are mounted at a height of 1.5 m or 0.5-0.8 m from the floor - this is the standard. The most popular option is number two. When marking the path of the wires to the switch, you should remember that the distance to the door frame cannot be less than 0.1 m.

• Currently, the installation height of sockets is not regulated. The main argument here will be convenience.
• When do you plan to install in the room desk, then the socket must be installed so that it is located above the table top.
• In the kitchen, sockets are placed above the kitchen countertop at a height of 0.9 m. It often makes sense to install double or triple sockets.

For washing machine, electric stove, electric water heater, and electric boiler, it is necessary to provide individual sockets, with separate wiring from the distribution panel.

When marking the installation of sockets and switches in a room, bathroom, shower or sauna, do not forget that these rooms have high humidity.

The second zone defines the space within a radius of 60 cm around the bathtub, shower, washbasin, sink, even if they have stationary partitions; The third zone is the space within a radius of 240 cm around the second zone.

Switches and sockets can only be installed in the third zone; they must be protected by an RCD for a current of up to 30 mA.

Lamp markings

A ceiling lamp is usually mounted in the center of the room.

To determine the location of the lamp on the floor of the room, we mark two diagonals, the place where they intersect is the center. Using a plumb line, we transfer the central point to and then mark the path to it for mounting the electrical wiring from the junction box.

If you decide to install several lamps on the ceiling of a given room, then first of all, determine the center line along the length of the room, and then mark the placement points of the lamps on this line, which are then transferred to the ceiling.

Before installing the electrical wiring, it is worth cutting the wire into pieces, their length will be equal to the space between the connecting and installation boxes, lamps and other devices.

The wire should be cut into pieces with a small margin of 0.1-0.15 m, which is necessary in order to connect them together and connect them to electrical appliances. You can secure the corrugated sleeve to the wall or ceiling using plastic holders

, which are fastened with screws, self-tapping screws or dowels - it depends on the material or wall. To attach the cable channel, you must immediately secure the lower part, then lay the electrical wiring in it and close it top part

box, by pressing it to the bottom until the lock clicks. If there is a need to check the wires, the upper part of the box can be easily snapped off.

In places where electrical wiring branches, special junction boxes are installed.

Open way

The socket box is cut out in the shape of a circle, with a diameter of 6-7 cm and a thickness of approximately 10 cm. First, the socket box is attached to it using countersunk screws or glue, and then a socket or switch that does not have an outer plastic casing is attached to it.

After this, “phase” and “zero” are connected to the socket, and in protected sockets, “grounding” is also connected.

The switch is connected to a “phase” break, which means that only a “phase” is led to it from the junction box, which, passing through the switch, will again return to the junction box via another wire and in it is connected to the “phase” that goes to the lamp, and “zero” is brought directly to the lamp, bypassing the switch.

You can determine the “phase” by marking the wires with a tag or remembering the colors of the wire insulation. When the electrical wiring is installed and connected, an indicator will help determine the “phase”.

Hidden electrical wiring

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out in monolithic houses, houses made of, as well as artificial and natural stones, etc.

Hidden wiring in a frame house

In houses made of stone or brick, installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out in special channels, so-called grooves, they are cut along the path of future wiring, and sealed after installation is complete.

Do you want to change the wiring in your apartment yourself? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don't have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and diagram

Single-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you don’t need to be an engineer, because you don’t need a complicated linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing by hand. An electrical wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly distribute the cable throughout the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.

Wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are pass-through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one busy line, for example in the kitchen; it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Define required amount lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to operate without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate cross-section. And if there are several consumers on the same line (for example to the kitchen) (and there will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave cable safety margin, that is, pick up required section(wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. — For socket lines, use a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 sq.mm., for all lighting 1.5 sq.mm, and for hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq.mm - and everything will be fine with you!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in Watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, neutral, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and automatic protective equipment only works using grounding .

To replace electrical wiring, it is best to use a VVG-ng cable. You can of course use NYM or PVA, but the advantages VVG cable obvious to others. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft ones need to be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller grooves, and it is possible to insert the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is the Gostov VVG ng. This is very important point in preparation for replacing the wiring! You can save on automation or sockets (they can always be replaced), but don’t skimp on the cable - get a good one.

Marking

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located; the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after renovation will be 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw horizontal line level and place a mark every 7cm (socket box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for children's institutions, kindergartens and schools, where sockets and switches are installed at height not lower than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially in your home, you can do as you please. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.

Preparing for gating

Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as laying cables under baseboards or ducts.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind the tension or suspended ceiling, if there are no plans to do this, then the ceiling will need to be chipped. And since, monolith of ceilings ditching is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We strongly do not recommend ditching the ceiling yourself, since you need to know the technology for correct gating so that the whole house doesn’t collapse someday.

In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen They find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.

Using a 70mm or 68mm concrete crown (attachment for a hammer drill), holes for the socket boxes are drilled. Using a wall chaser or grinder, grooves are cut out for laying the cable. There should be grooves in the walls strictly vertical, not horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed; the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save on corrugation; if you don’t have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then you don’t need corrugation!

Noisy work

When you start hammering walls, don’t forget about the law. You can only make noise with a hammer drill in apartment buildings at strictly defined times; each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan you need to get permission from the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they start beating in response. It's better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Grilling

Before you start dabbling, it is highly advisable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since everything socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw the monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will be ditching so as not to touch communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't figure out where it's going old wiring, call an electrician, or simply turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For ease of work, make yourself a temporary carrier (extension).

The hole for the socket boxes is drilled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, then drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown. After which, the cutting with a crown will go noticeably faster, one might say – it will go like clockwork. If it gets on the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown; in extreme cases, you can knock it off with a spatula. It’s better to use a hammer drill for help (don’t forget about neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Grooves for laying cables go from the socket box to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the groove down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these tasks, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder and a diamond disc for stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, wear a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

Laying the cable on the floor is not difficult; it is enough to hold it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when they make the screed. Usually they lay the cable along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall) so that later they know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay cables under doorways! To lay the cable along the floor, it is better to make through holes between the rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damaging the cable when installing the interior thresholds.

Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can secure the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster ( building gypsum). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use for installing socket boxes. But before you smear the grooves with it, you need to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fastened in the groove and does not stick out anywhere, the grooves can be covered with regular plaster mixture this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Soldered (or distribution boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today, professional electricians will tell you that There is no need to install junction boxes in existing apartments! They can play a cruel joke on your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It’s easy to give up junction boxes - do all the switching in the socket boxes! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Typically, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out socket lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.

Electrical panel installation

Most a budget option- this is the installation of all circuit breakers on staircase in the common shield, where your old machines and counter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to route all the cables into the access panel. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead shield is up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the overhead one is easier to install. All lines from the apartment go to the panel, and from it one thick cable goes to the entrance panel, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. According to the rules, you cannot insert more than two lines into one machine; if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even on household level. The most necessary condition- this is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short-circuit currents (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).

It is best to install RCDs on the lines of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! They install one common RCD only for the purpose of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a fault in the event of a leak, + the entire apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.

Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection from cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm, etc.

Shield assembly

One of the most crucial moments is assembling the shield. If you are using a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be any color except blue and yellow), all others (zero N blue, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their busbars. When using RCDs or difavtomats (automatic and RCD “in one bottle”), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marked N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers made of wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross-section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and neutrals across the circuit breakers using a cable with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since very often it happens that the wire simply does not fit into the clamp, or does not hold well in it.

Final installation. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed in the most last resort, after clean finish(painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good installation– this is a good contact!

Most of the outlets in your apartment are pass-through, that is, through them the cable goes in a loop to each subsequent outlet. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example IEK), they have a very poor (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumps out of the clamp, it means you did not clamp it properly or the clamp was defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are produced by LeGrande and Schneider.

To ensure that the frames lie flat and tight, install a group of sockets or switches level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws on two opposite sides, close to the wall. Then tighten the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or screws!

Monitor the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long, as they may touch the wires.

At each stage of repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finishing.