Many experts recommend using floor slats to organize the floor. The main part of the house can be called the floor. Comfort and coziness depend on the floor modern apartment or any home. Wood is optimal for flooring. Since walking on such a floor is not only enjoyable, but also good for health. It is not necessary to paint and varnish a wooden covering, since there are other processing methods that can protect wooden surface. Floor slats are the most common option. It is suitable for work in all rooms. The floor slats are superior to other materials in many respects.

Laying floorboards: 4 bases to work with

Floorboards can be laid under any ceiling, and above support pillars. The most important thing is pre-treatment, only after that you can start choosing a coating option.

Before you start laying the floorboard, you should pre-treat the surface

The following flooring options can be used for the base under the floorboard:

• Leveled floors with concrete or polymer screed;
• Layed bricks, or any covering without a leveled layer and screed;
• Plywood is moisture resistant;
• Former wood covering or rough backfill made of lumber.

Which methods you use depends on your space.

Once the room is equipped with windows and doors, wooden floors are installed. The floorboard is very susceptible to moisture and therefore if the humidity on the wall exceeds 12%, then installation is not permissible. The boards will also be deformed if the humidity is 60%; they will crack and dry out. For mounting on concrete slab It is necessary to release the sawn material from its packaging 2 - 3 days before installation, lay the boards without nailing them to the surface, or simply leave them in the room to get used to the environment where installation will be carried out.

Attaching floorboards to wood flooring

Plank flooring is a popular type of flooring. In many cases, craftsmen are called in for this type of work. And there are craftsmen who can do this type of installation themselves.

A fairly popular covering option is plank flooring.

For self-installation The following fastening methods are used:

• On the logs;
• On a false basis;
• On old floors.

Each method has its own characteristics and therefore is worth studying them carefully.

If a concrete screed is not used, it is better to lay the slats using logs. This can be done using beams, ceilings, or nailed onto a clean surface. They serve as a cheap leveling layer, which is placed in individual areas, that is, in areas of unevenness, and strengthened there. Then boards are laid on them. But, unfortunately, this method has disadvantages. The formation of voids, which in the future can lead to the appearance of mold or mildew if moisture gets into these voids. Incorrect placement of the joists will cause boards to break. But, despite the disadvantages, this method of laying lags is the most effective. Because instead of having to level the screed for a long period of time, you can simply put several dozen logs and attach them to the base, and insulate the spaces between them. With this technology, the floors will be ready quite quickly.

Self-tapping screws for floorboards

Many people use special self-tapping screws to lay and join slats. These screws perfectly fix and create reliable installation flooring. Such self-tapping screws are a little more expensive than regular ones, but their performance is superior to that of standard material.

If you decide to lay the floor yourself, then you will first need to prepare special screws for the job

The superiority of special screws for fastening floorboards:

1. Such self-tapping screws are equipped protective coating from corrosion.
2. A cutter is made at the end of these screws for easy installation of the floorboard without preliminary drilling.
3. The screws are made with a special cutter. The degree is made at such an angle as is used when screwing in and it easily fits into the board without splitting it.
4. Another feature of these self-tapping screws is the absence of threads under the head, which facilitates a tight fit to the floorboard.
5. These screws are made according to standard sizes from 3.5x35 to 3.5x50 mm. The parameters of such screws are selected depending on the thickness of the floorboard.

Using such self-tapping screws, you will not have to worry about the quality of the work performed.

Floorboards: installation nuances

We have studied all the fastening options, and now we need to figure out how to lay floorboards using various methods.

To install joists, you need to carefully prepare the floor covering.

You can lay the floorboards different ways, which you can choose at your discretion

If you place the material on an old floor, you need to nail the logs or screw them with self-tapping screws.

Glue is another option for attaching to joists. If distorted beams act as the base, then the logs should be attached to the sides of these beams and kept level. It is necessary to arrange the logs so that the load on them is distributed evenly. For reliability and confidence that you are doing everything correctly and long term, you need to know the method of attaching them.

When laying on a false base, no problems should arise at all. If used this technology, then the boards must be laid on a flat base and have the visual appearance of a solid monolithic production. In order to obtain a durable floor, all boards must be connected with a special connecting element such as a tenon, groove, lock or clamp (clasps). If you do not have such elements, you can use a cutter to join the floorboard. It makes it very easy to pull any floorboards together.

Installation rules: floor slats (video)

Installing floor slats is really difficult task, and not everyone can do it. If you are not confident in your capabilities, then it is better to entrust this matter to professionals who will organize the work in a short time. If you decide to tackle this matter yourself, then take into account all aspects of installation, and this article will help you carry out all the upcoming work step by step.

The answer to the question of what and how to fasten floorboard, is far from so obvious. Although classic wooden floors will remain popular for a very long time, technology does not stand still. The main thing is to find a reasonable balance between quality, ease of execution and price.

"Black" floor

In the case of laying the so-called subfloor, on which the finishing coating will then be laid, there is no need to “reinvent the wheel” - it is better to use the old ones good methods. Perhaps with some added modern technology.

Rough floor boards, as a rule, are ordinary edged “forty” or “fifty” (depending on the selected lag pitch). Since ancient times it has been fastened using construction nails with a length of 100 to 150 mm - this is the most cheap method. But now the methods of fastening have acquired some variety.

Laying such a floor begins from the wall. The first floorboard is simply laid on the joists, the gaps between it and the wall are leveled (you need to leave a gap for ventilation in the floor space) and sewn to the joists through the thickness - 2 nails for each. The same is done with the subsequent ones.

Of course, it is better to use dry boards. The only condition is preliminary control of their quality. However, in the case of a “subfloor”, you can safely use undried material: the floorboards will get rid of moisture naturally after laying the floor within 1-1.5 months, and with such gentle drying, the likelihood of warping is minimized.

Fastening the floorboard with nails has its own trick: they are sewn to the joists “in a ruff”. For each beam - 2 nails: the first is driven vertically, the second - at an angle. Floor boards should be laid with a small gap between them.

Fastening “black” floor boards with self-tapping screws (usually 76-100 mm long) is similar. But in this case, you don’t have to adhere to the “ruff rule”: their thread itself reliably fixes the floor to the joists.

However, to use self-tapping screws to attach floorboards, you need a more serious tool. In addition to the usual hacksaw and hammer, you will also need a drill (to drill holes in the floorboard for self-tapping screws) and a screwdriver.

Nail heads and screw heads must be recessed into the body of the board. Otherwise, during subsequent planing of the floors, there is a high risk of damaging the instrument. It is better, however, to do this not immediately during the flooring process, but immediately before starting to lay the finishing coating.

Option "in white"

It is much more labor-intensive to produce “white” floors from specially treated floorboards. As a rule, a so-called tongue-and-groove board is used for this. In some cases, it is permissible to use floorboards whose ends are chosen as a quarter. But definitely raw material must first be kiln dried.

The main thing that must be observed is the layout of the floor boards. They must be placed “in the light” - in other words, perpendicular to the wall in which the number of windows is maximum.

When laying a “white” floor, there should be no gaps between the boards. To do this, the canvas must be “pulled.” Each subsequent board is tacked to the previous one with special wedges, and then, if the joint is of good quality, it is attached to the joists. Sometimes you have to touch the end with a plane. To consolidate the floor, you can also use special screeds, but this is already professional tool, to spend money on home handyman it makes no sense.

When laying such a floor, completely different methods of attaching the floorboard are used. This is the so-called parquet seam, when the fasteners are installed not all the way through, but flush into the end of the board.

Ordinary construction screws 35-55 mm long are also suitable for this. But it is best to use special screws for floorboards currently on the market. They have a different pitch and length of the thread, a “spoon”-shaped thread that imitates a drill, which makes it possible to avoid pre-drilling channels with a drill, and a flatter angle of the head (it does not split the edge of the floor board into which the self-tapping screw is wrapped). They cost, of course, significantly more, but the overpayment is justified.

When laying, it is often necessary to join the floor boards lengthwise. The docking options are not particularly diverse. As a rule, the joints are “guessed” so that they fall on one of the lags. This helps prevent the floor from weakening. The edge of each board is overlapped with a joist half its thickness.

But this method, as a rule, is accompanied by the appearance of a considerable amount of scraps. There is a method that gives greater freedom, but requires, however, the use of a professional tool.

At the end of one of the boards manual router a groove is selected, and at the other end there is a tongue and groove ridge. The boards are joined end-to-end with sufficient rigidity. The main thing is the accuracy of fitting the ends to each other. The cutter for the connection is a regular straight cutter with a cutting depth of 1-1.5 cm.

When arranging flooring in your home, you need to pay close attention not only to the type of materials used for this. It is necessary to carefully select the method of fastening the cladding.

Everyone knows that each building material needs its own type of fixation and method of its use. In this case, the plank covering is no exception.

Considering all the loads that fall on floor cladding, the choice of method of fastening the boards is very, very important. When individual floorboards are not secured firmly enough, after a certain period of time (often very short), they begin to loosen. They change their original position, the initially flat and smooth floor begins to creak underfoot, and often simply collapses.

This article is about how to fix a floorboard correctly and efficiently. The most reliable and common methods will be considered.

Existing fixation methods

Floorboards are fixed in three main ways:

1. so-called secret - using nails or self-tapping screws;
2. adhesive analogue;
3. and using clamps.

Fastening boards with nails

1. In this way, the boards are usually attached to a wooden base (solid or assembled from logs).
2. The initial row of floorboards is laid using nails driven into the base through the tongue and groove at an angle of 45 degrees. Then they are driven into place.
3. To avoid damaging the tongues, holes for fasteners must be pre-drilled with a drill.
4. During the process of adjusting the next row of planks, the nails must be hidden.
5. All other rows of planks are fixed with your own hands using nails, in the usual way- through their surface.

Note! When it is necessary to replace several floorboards when repairing the covering, make sure that each of them ends under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise the coating will not be durable.

Adhesive installation method

When board cladding is installed on a solid base, adhesive can be used to secure it.

1. For this purpose, the grooves of a row of boards are lubricated with an adhesive compound (for example, ordinary PVA) before they are placed on the tongues of the adjacent row.
2. The instructions instruct you to apply glue thin layer in 1/2 mm, every 0.5 m, along the entire surface of the groove.
3. The final tongue-and-groove edges are also coated with the composition.

Fixation with clamps

Some manufacturers provide boards with clamps that are inserted into the slot with their inside. These elements are needed to fasten the planks together.

A little about how to properly attach the flooring in a boring way.

1. After installing the subfloors, lay a layer of waterproofing on them. Secure the material to the walls with self-adhesive tape.
2. Hammer the clamps in the direction of the tongue into the cracks of the first row of boards to be laid.
3. Apply glue to the planks along their end seams. Place the first row.
4. Place wedges approximately 1 cm thick between the wall and the boards.
5. Next, secure the clips to the second row of planks. Tapping gently with a hammer (through a piece of protective block) along the edges this series, fix the floorboards.
6. The entire coating is installed in a similar manner.
7. Next, remove the wall wedges and install the baseboards.

Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

install the skirting boards.

Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

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Special self-tapping screws for floorboards

1. Such fasteners are produced in several standard sizes: 3.5×35, 3.5×40, 3.5×45 and 3.5×50 millimeters. The size of the screws is selected based on the thickness of the floorboards used.
2. Such self-tapping screws have a protective coating that prevents the appearance of corrosion on them.
3. There is a cutter at the tip of the mount. It makes it possible to screw screws into wood without drilling preparation holes.

Note! This design ensures a tighter screw fit. Consequently, fixing the boards to subfloor is more durable.

1. The geometry of the milling cut is special. Its angle is chosen in such a way that the screw enters the wood easily, without splitting the planks.
2. Another one characteristic feature self-tapping screws for floorboards - there is no threaded thread on their upper part. This circumstance contributes to a tighter fit of the floor covering to the base.

1. The pitch between individual screws when fixing the planks to the base should be from 25 to 30 centimeters.

used when laying plank floors. For this purpose, it is necessary to recess the heads of the screws into the wood by 3/4 of a millimeter. The hole formed as a result of these actions can be closed using a piece of wood that matches it in shape and size. Its type should be the same as that of the flooring boards.
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All photos from the article

When arranging a plank floor, you need to pay attention Special attention fastening the floorboard. The durability of the coating and some of its performance qualities depend on this. In this article we will look in detail at how to properly attach floorboards to the base.

General information

The floor in the room is always subject to the greatest load. Therefore, if the boards are poorly fixed, they quickly become loose, as a result of which they begin to creak and “walk.” Over time, such a floor becomes uneven and gradually collapses.

Therefore, when arranging it with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out fastening taking into account the loads that will be exerted on the structure. U professional craftsmen There are secrets on how to make a floor structure rigid, strong and durable; below we will get acquainted with them.

Installation

Basic Rules

First of all, let's get acquainted with the basic rules that must be followed in order for the plank floor to meet all of the above requirements:

• the distance between the walls and the flooring should be about 10 mm;
• Before laying the boardwalk, you should check the position of the joists so that their surface is located in the same horizontal plane;
• if the boards are joined along the length, the joint should be staggered. In this case, the seam itself should be in the center of the joist;
• lumber used for flooring must be well dried.

Compliance with these rules is the key correct installation floor.

Mounting methods

Currently, when arranging plank floors, the following methods of attaching floorboards are most often used:

• secretly using screws or nails;
• glue method;
• using special clamps.

Each installation option has its own characteristics, which we will review below.

Self-tapping screws

This installation method is usually used when laying boards on a solid base or joists. The principle is based on the fact that a self-tapping screw is screwed into the base through a tongue and groove at an angle, as shown in the diagram below. The angle should be about 45 degrees.

It should be noted that it is better to use special screws to fix the flooring, since the nails will sooner or later become loose and the floor will begin to creak.

Note!
To avoid damaging the tongue during installation, you should first drill a hole in it.

To ensure that fastening a board to a board with a tenon/groove joint does not cause problems, the heads of the screws or nails must be well deepened. To tightly join the second row, you can use a rubber or wooden mallet.

Note!
The deck board is fastened with self-tapping screws into the face, since this lumber does not have a tongue and groove.
In order to hide the heads of the self-tapping screws in this case, they should be “recessed” and covered on top.

The floor is laid throughout the entire room using this principle.

Glue method

As you can easily guess from the name, this method involves using glue instead of screws or nails. It can be used in cases where the coating is installed on top of a solid base, for example, concrete or a base made of chipboard or plywood.

Instructions for fastening floor lumber in this case are as follows:

• first of all, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, for example, PVA or another type of glue;
• then adhesive composition applied in a thin layer to the base;
• after this, the first row is laid, taking into account a gap of 10 cm near the wall. If the panel does not fit in length, it should be trimmed;

In the photo - laying the coating with glue

• You need to start laying the second row with the remainder of the previous panel. The lumber is joined together according to the scheme described above;
• after laying several rows, work is usually stopped until the glue hardens;
• then laying continues in the same pattern until the entire floor area is covered.

It should be noted that glue method installation is the simplest, since there is no need to drill holes and screw in screws. However, as mentioned above, it cannot be used for all cases.

Clamp mounting

Some board manufacturers provide them with clamps that are installed in the slot from the inside. Clamps allow you to fasten the covering together, as well as fix it on the joists.

Accordingly, the clamps can be used for those types of boards that do not have grooves and tenons for lock connection. It should be noted that the clamps are convenient and simple view fasteners.

They are driven into the joists and attached to one board with a self-tapping screw and the other with a nail-shaped pin. This ensures reliable installation. True, the price of these fasteners is higher than the cost of conventional self-tapping screws.

Advice!
This type of mount is also used for decking boards from larch and other lumber.

Here, perhaps, are all the main methods of attaching floorboards that can be used for independent arrangement.

Conclusion

There are several ways to secure the floorboard to the base. The choice depends on the type of base and the coating itself. But, in any case, if you adhere to the recommendations outlined above, the flooring will be strong and durable.

Get more useful information on the designated topic can be found in the video in this article.

IN modern renovation, wooden floors are made mainly from tongue and groove boards. This allows you to avoid many disadvantages such as creaking, cracks, drops, etc., inherent in floors made from ordinary boards. If you also decide to make a floor from a tongue-and-groove board, then in our article you can learn how to choose a tongue-and-groove board, how to install it and how to repair floors made of this material.

For the right choice tongue and groove boards, you need to know about the features, classification, manufacturing method and categories of boards.

Manufacturing

The tongue and groove board is made from coniferous wood and hardwood. The boards are cut from the core of the logs, after which they are dried to 8-10% moisture content. After drying, the boards are cut to size, processed on a thickness planer and using a cutter, a tongue-and-groove joint is made along their edges. The boards have dimensions: width from 80 to 200 mm, thickness from 15 to 22 mm, length from 600 to 6000 mm. The tongue-and-groove connection can be on either two or four sides; this criterion mainly depends on the length of the board. There are also boards with other parameters on sale. At the end of the manufacturing process, the boards are treated with antiseptics.

Categories

Finished boards are selected and divided into the following categories:

• The highest category “extra” – boards with an ideal surface.
• Category A – the surface of the boards is uniform, without stains, with a minimum number of knots.
• Category B – small stains, cracks and knots may be present on the surface of the boards.
• Category C – boards not High Quality, but suitable for making floors or wall decoration.

The choice of category largely depends on the intended purpose of the floor. If you are making floors as a base for another type of covering, then buying boards of the first three categories does not make sense. If you are going to use a floor made of tongue and groove boards as the main covering, which is also varnished, then it is better to buy boards of the highest category.

Advantages

A tongue and groove board has a number of advantages compared to a regular edged board:

• The main advantage of a tongue and groove board is the tongue-and-groove connection, thanks to which the floor elements are securely connected to each other and attached to the joists. In the end it turns out perfect Smooth surface, without cracks, differences and defects, does not require additional scraping.
• Tongue and groove boards are produced in the same size, so there is no need to adjust the elements, which greatly facilitates installation.
• The boards are made from already dried wood, so there is no risk of cracking and deformation of the boards during installation.
• During the manufacturing process, special recesses are made on the inside of the tongue-and-groove board for air circulation. This avoids the formation of mold and rotting of the boards, while high humidity under the floor.
• The tongue and groove board is produced with an already planed surface, this in turn allows you to save installation time.
• Thanks to all the advantages listed above, the installation of tongue-and-groove boards is so easy that you can do it yourself.

Features of choice

When choosing floorboards, consider the load factor on the coating. For floors with heavy loads, buy tongue-and-groove boards made of hardwood: oak, alder, mahogany, birch. If a small load is expected on the floor, then it is quite possible to get by with cheaper ones. coniferous species: pine, cedar, spruce.

When making a purchase, be sure to pay attention to appearance boards If there are white or dark spots on the surface, this may be a symptom of wood infection by fungus or mold. Also carefully inspect the boards for insects living in the wood.

Not all board sellers comply with the storage conditions for lumber. For this reason, the boards you purchase may end up being wet. To save yourself from happy shopping, check the moisture content of the wood. This can be done using a moisture meter or traditional methods:

• • Knock on wood; wet boards will make a dull sound; therefore, the drier the board, the louder the knock will be.
  • Inspect the board for any escaping resin. If there are droplets of resin on the surface, then most likely it is dry.
  • Run your palm over the surface of the board. If you feel even the slightest moisture, then you should not buy such a board.

• • There are more reliable way checking the board for moisture, but it requires a drill. Drill through the board; if the wood is wet, steam will be generated during drilling, and instead of dry sawdust, wet fibers will fall out.

• And the last rule, in no case, do not buy boards from stacks located under open air. Even if the stack is covered with cellophane or tarpaulin, this does not protect the boards from increased air humidity during precipitation, and they may end up wet.

When buying a tongue and groove board, ask the seller to show you a certificate of conformity.

Installation of tongue and groove boards

Making floors from tongue and groove boards is best done after all finishing works. The temperature in the room where the boards are installed should not be less than five degrees Celsius. Air humidity should be no more than 30-20%.

As mentioned above, the material from which the tongue and groove board is made is selected depending on the expected load on the floor surface. When there is a heavy load on the surface, boards made of hardwood are used. In rooms with low traffic, coniferous boards will be sufficient.

Choose the quality of the boards and, accordingly, the category based on financial opportunities and option finishing floor. If you want to cover the floor with transparent varnish, then buy a tongue-and-groove board of the highest category or category A. For a floor to be painted, boards of category B are suitable. If the floor is made as a base for another coating, then boards of category C will be suitable for its manufacture.

Installation of logs

Installation of logs is carried out on concrete base or on beam floors. To install joists and boards you will need:

• Bars with a cross section of 50x100 millimeters.
• Brackets or connecting plates.
• Wood screws or nails.
• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver or screwdriver.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil.
• Square.
• Level.

The logs are laid on the base, perpendicular to the position of the boards.

1. Install the first row of joists at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the wall.
2. Connect the logs together with brackets, plates, or simply screw them to each other with screws.
3. Using a level, check the correct position of the entire row of joists. If necessary, level the position of the joists by placing wooden or plastic pads under them.
4. Install the second row of joists at a distance of 40-50 centimeters from the first row.
5. Install the remaining rows, remembering to check the level.
6. If you use boards that are shorter than the length of the room and that do not have a tongue-and-groove lock at the ends, then you need to install additional logs at the joints of the boards.

Installation of boards

Please note that before installation, the boards must “acclimatize” by lying in the room where installation will take place for at least two days.

1. 1. Install the first board on the joists with the tenon facing the wall, at a distance of 10-15 millimeters from the wall.
   2. Attach the board to the joists with screws, driving them from the edge of the board and into the base of the tenon at a 40-degree angle.
   3. Take the second board and insert its tenon into the groove of the first board. If necessary, carefully tap the board with a hammer for a tight connection and also secure it with screws.

1. Install the remaining boards this way. Try to recess the screw heads 1-2 millimeters into the board so that they do not interfere with the tenons entering the grooves.
2. Installation of the last board often involves the need to saw it longitudinally. You can reduce the width of the board using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.
3. Do not forget that along the entire perimeter of the coating, you need to leave compensation gaps of 1 to 2 centimeters.
4. If you are laying boards that are smaller than the size of the room, then it is better to join them not in one line, but in a checkerboard pattern, this will give the coating greater strength.
5. Since the door threshold bears the greatest load, it is recommended to install additional logs in this place.

You can also see how to install tongue and groove boards in the video:

Finishing the floor

The final finishing of the floor is best done after all repair work. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the decorative layer of the coating.
For finishing you will need:

• Putty knife.
• Vibratory and belt sanders.
• Sandpaper.
• Putty.
• A set of brushes or a spray gun.
• Solvent.
• Stain.
• Water based varnish or acrylic base. If the floor is to be painted, then paint.
• Vacuum cleaner.
• Mop bucket and rag.

1. 1. Carefully inspect the floor for cracks, chips, rotten areas, knots and irregularities.
   2. All detected defects must be leveled with a plane and covered with putty to match the color of the wood from which the boards are made.
   3. After the putty has dried, sand the treated areas with fine-grained sandpaper.
   4. Check the smoothness of the putty areas and, if necessary, repeat the procedure again.
   5. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and dust from the floor.
   6. If as decorative covering If you decide to use paint, then wipe the floor with a damp cloth and start painting.

1. If you want to use transparent varnish as a coating, then first you need to make additional work for sanding and giving the floor the desired shade.
2. To sand tongue and groove floors, it is best to use a belt sander. Use it to sand the entire floor surface.
3. After sanding, vacuum up all the dust and wipe the floors with a damp cloth.
4. To give the floor the desired shade, use stain, applying it to the boards with a brush or roller.
5. After the stain has dried, you can apply the first coat of varnish. It is better to do this using a spray gun, evenly spraying the varnish over the surface.
6. Before applying the second coat of varnish, it is necessary to lightly sand the first layer. This can be done using a vibrating sander and fine-grained sandpaper.
7. The number of layers applied depends on the quality of the varnish and your desire, but usually 3-4 layers are enough for a normal-looking floor.
8. Having applied last layer varnish, let the floors dry completely for a week, after which you can treat the floor with polish and begin using the room.

Detailed instructions for applying varnish to a wooden floor are in the video:

Now it has become fashionable to use special oil to treat floors instead of varnish. There is a reason for using oil, especially for high-traffic areas, because oil is absolutely resistant to abrasion, unlike varnish. In addition, the oil perfectly emphasizes the texture of wood, giving it a soft and warm color.
It is much easier to coat a floor with oil than with varnish, since oil does not require sanding each layer. Oil is applied to wood using both cold and hot methods. Mostly cold application with a brush is used. The number of layers applied depends on the absorbency of the wood; usually two coats are enough.


When painting the floor with oil, make sure it is evenly distributed over the surface and promptly remove smudges. After the oil has dried, the floor surface can be treated with wax.

Please note that violation of the order of work and non-compliance with instructions when using paint and varnish materials, can lead to rapid wear of the coating, and in the worst case, to the need new finishes floor!

You can also find out how to coat a wooden floor with oil by watching the video:

Floor restoration and repair

During the operation of a floor made of tongue and groove boards, certain problems may arise caused by low quality materials or violation of installation technology. Let's look at common breakdowns and how to fix them:

• Gaps between boards– occur due to the high moisture content in the boards during their installation. After the laid boards have completely dried, the wood contracts, resulting in the formation of cracks. Most effective way To eliminate this problem, this means dismantling the boards and their new styling on the logs. If the cracks are not large, you can cover them with putty.

• Floor creaking- a very common problem that occurs due to friction of joists and boards against each other. Most often, floors begin to creak due to improper installation technology. Perhaps the logs were positioned too long distance, so the boards began to sag when walking and creak. Another reason may be weak fastening of the boards to the joists. You can try to eliminate the cause of the squeak by screwing in additional screws; if this does not help, you will have to redo the floor again.

• Cracking of boards– can happen for two reasons. The first is the wrong choice of flooring material. If the boards are made of soft wood, and the load on the surface is too intense, then over time, the floor will not only crack, but may even completely collapse. The problem can be solved by reducing the load or replacing boards with stronger ones. The second reason is wet wood. After drying, the wood tends to crack. In this case, it is enough to cover the cracks with putty.

• Appearance of resin on boards– caused by the final drying of the wood. To get rid of resin, just remove it with a spatula, sand the area where it appears, and if the floor is covered with varnish or paint, apply a new layer of coating.

• Varnish peeling– can occur from contact with the surface large quantity water or due to applying varnish to wet wood. In any case, it is necessary to remove the old coating with a spatula and grinder, let the boards dry and apply new layers of varnish.

• Rotting of joists and the inside of the boards occurs due to high humidity and insufficient air circulation under the floor. The problem will have to be solved by opening the floor, installing ventilation, replacing joists and rotten boards.

If after reading the article you have questions, you can ask them in the comments, we will be happy to answer them!