A ceiling box made of plasterboard (GCR), or in other words, a step, is a very often erected structure during renovation and decoration of premises.

This design helps solve two main problems: firstly, from a design point of view, it gives the room some sophistication and individuality, and secondly, from a technical point of view, it allows you to lay electrical cables, install lighting fixtures and hide all kinds of communications.

Sometimes a plasterboard step is used in conjunction with a suspended ceiling, and if you use a glossy canvas, you can achieve the effect of expanding the space.

By using boxes from profiles and plasterboard, ceilings on several levels are created. Although now multi-level stretch ceiling, but still the gypsum plasterboard structure is more durable and reliable, and even an amateur can build it, unlike a two-level stretch ceiling.

In this article we will look at an example of assembling a box from profiles and drywall in one of the rooms of a simple panel “Khrushchev” building.

Ceiling box layout

The content of the article:

1. Materials required for the construction of the box:

• Guide profile PN 28x27 mm;
• Ceiling profile PP 60x27 mm;
• GKL sheets 1200x2500x9.5 mm (has a thickness of 9.5 mm);
• Perforated corner 25x25 mm;
• Putties (universal and finishing);
• Interior paint (white);
• Self-tapping screw with press washer 4.2x13mm (they are also called sunflower seeds);
• Self-tapping screw 3.5x41 mm with large thread and dowel 6x40 mm (for attaching the profile to concrete wall and ceiling);
• Self-tapping screw 3.5x19 mm with fine thread (for fastening plasterboard sheets).

Appearance of the profiles used in the box design

Fasteners used when performing work

2. Tool:

• Hammer with drill ⌀6 mm;
• Screwdriver;
• Metal scissors;
• Laser or simple building level;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Metal square;
• Putty knife;
• Roller;
• Sandpaper.

3. Assembling the box structure from metal profiles

The principle of constructing the box is presented in the diagram below:

Assembly diagram of a ceiling box frame made of metal profiles for gypsum boards

Technology for assembling a box from profiles:

Having decided on the dimensions of the box, we mark and attach the guide profiles PN 28x27 mm to the wall and ceiling.

We connect two guide profiles to each other, as shown in the diagram. Horizontal ceiling profiles will be inserted into one of these profiles, and vertical ones into the other.

We cut vertical ceiling profiles in accordance with the height of the step and the margin for the height of the guide profile.

We install 60x27 mm ceiling profiles in 600 mm increments into the guide profile fixed to the ceiling. We secure them with 3.5x41 mm self-tapping screws.

We attach a structure assembled from two guides to the ceiling profiles. We level it and secure it with self-tapping screws.

We install horizontal ceiling profiles, also with a pitch of 600 mm, level the structure, check that our step has an angle of 90 degrees using a metal square, and secure all the profiles with 3.5x41 mm self-tapping screws.

At the junction of the guide profiles it is necessary to install a ceiling profile

After assembling the structure from the profiles, you need to make sure that it is rigid and strong, then you can start covering the box with plasterboard.

An additional horizontal profile was added to the structure along the entire perimeter, which was subsequently used to attach the baguette under.

4. Covering the structure with gypsum board sheets

Before covering the box structure with sheets of plasterboard, you must make sure that all the necessary communications have been laid and the wiring for connecting lighting fixtures has been completed.

As mentioned above, to cover the steps, ceiling plasterboard will be used, which has a thickness of 9.5 mm, in contrast to wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm.

Cutting sheets required sizes, for this we use a simple construction knife. Sheets of drywall are cut on one side, and then broken quite easily and evenly, after which the cardboard is cut to the end.

At the junction of gypsum board sheets, it is necessary to chamfer; special planes are used for this, but this procedure can also be performed with a knife.

To fasten gypsum board sheets to a metal profile, self-tapping screws with a frequent thread pitch and dimensions of 3.5x19 mm or 3.5x25 mm are used.

First I sewed up the horizontal plane of the structure, and then the vertical one. The protruding ends of the gypsum board sheets also need to be leveled with a special plane.

5. Holes for lamps

We mark and, using a special crown and a screwdriver, cut out holes for the lamps.

Choose the location of the lamps so as not to hit the ceiling profile

6. Installation of perforated corner

Appearance of a metal perforated corner

The perforated corner performs two functions: 1 - gives the structure evenness, 2 - protects the most vulnerable part of the structure from damage.

Of course, if a perforated corner is used in ceiling structure, the main task will be to give our box evenness.

Installation of the corner is carried out using putty. The perforated corner is quite light and the putty holds it in place without any problems.

We need to dilute a little universal putty and apply it to the corner of our box, then take perforated corner and press it tightly. Next, you should apply a little putty on top of the corner itself and, for reliability, secure it with several self-tapping screws.

After the mixture has dried, the screws must be unscrewed and excess putty removed with a spatula. Then you can sand the surface of the corner and putty it again, trying to make the surface of the structure even.

7. Putty the ceiling box

It is necessary to putty all the joints between the gypsum board sheets, as well as the locations of the screws.

To avoid the formation of cracks, the joints must be glued with a special reinforcing tape - serpyanka.

First, a universal putty is used, it is intended for filling unevenness up to 10 mm, and then finishing. I used Knauf Fugen as a universal putty, and Vitonit as a finishing putty.

Putties used during work

After applying each layer of putty, it is necessary to wait until completely dry, then use a spatula and sandpaper to remove any irregularities.

Typically, the required result is achieved using 1-2 layers of each type of putty.

8. Painting the ceiling box

The final stage in the construction of the ceiling box is painting it.

Before painting, it is necessary to remove dust from the surface using a primer.

White interior paint, a roller and a brush were used for the work.

To achieve an optimal result, it is necessary to paint the surface 2-3 times.

9. Final result:

When carrying out renovations, there is always a choice of ceiling finishing. High requirements for the aesthetics of the room do not allow open pipes, ventilation and other communications. You can hide any wires and lines by installing a plasterboard box. This design looks impressive on the ceiling in any room: kitchen, hallway, living room, bedroom. Finished design looks like two-level ceiling, but its installation will cost less. The shape of the box is selected in accordance with common interior rooms, Spotlights will become its organic complement.

In this article we will tell you how to make a box from plasterboard yourself, we will look at various options, and also demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Advantages of finishing

• Drywall - safe and environmentally friendly pure material, its use is safe for health.
• The design allows you to create any geometric shapes and serves important element ceiling decor.
• Possibility to integrate additional lighting.
• Easy to process and install.
• High degree of fire safety.

Types of drywall

A sheet of drywall is construction material, which is based on a hardened layer of gypsum with filler. Both sides of the sheet are covered with paper, which serves to protect the inside and ensures stretching of the material during operation. Versatile and inexpensive material became widespread. Depending on the purpose, it is divided into moisture-resistant, material intended for normal humidity, and fire-resistant. Cellulose-reinforced gypsum fiber sheets have excellent strength characteristics.

Materials required for installation

The basis for installing a ceiling box is a frame made of metal profile, you will need:

• guide profile UD;
• supporting profile CD;
• brackets and crab connectors;
• fastening materials (screws, dowels);
• plasterboard sheets 12 mm thick, corresponding to the level humidity in the room;
• primer;
• gypsum putty;
• mesh for seams.

When choosing a material, you need to pay attention to its quality: the plasterboard sheets should not be chipped, the galvanization of the surface of the profiles should be uniform. Rigidity metal frame ensures the safety of the entire structure, it is better to purchase material from well-known manufacturers. Fasteners and profiles must be of the same brand.

Before installing the box, you must complete a drawing that will allow you to calculate the amount of material required.

Until sheathing, the sheets are stored only in a horizontal position.

Box installation rules

• The ceiling on which it is installed plasterboard construction, must be level, for this preparatory work is carried out.
• The reliability of the design is guaranteed only aluminum profile, manufactured at the factory. Only quality material withstands the load and ensures installation of structures of any shape.
• If the frame guides pass near hot pipes, then it is necessary to increase the distance between them, otherwise the heating will cause expansion of the metal and damage to the shape of the box.
• Before cladding begins, markings are applied to the sheet.
• After attaching the sheets, the surface of the structure is puttyed and painted.

The box structure will require preparation various instruments for work:

1. Measuring instruments: tape measure, plumb line, level.
2. Metal scissors.
3. Hammer.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Spatulas.
6. Hammer.
7. Construction knife.

Stages of work

1. Before assembling the box on the ceiling, it is necessary to mark it. The lines are drawn with a pencil, the parallelism of the markings is controlled by a bubble or laser level. Lines for subsequent fastening of the guides are drawn on the walls and ceiling. The pipes that the box will hide need to be properly primed and painted; after the structure is installed, they will become difficult to access.
2. For convenience, you can lay out the profiles for the frame on the floor and transfer the markings to the ceiling. Along the fastening lines, holes for dowels are made using a hammer drill.
3. Guides forming top part boxes attached to the ceiling.
4. Hangers for fastening are made independently; the guide profile is cut into pieces of the required length.
5. A UD guide profile is screwed around the perimeter. It forms the plane of the structure, from the accuracy of compliance horizontal level when it is secured, the shape of the box depends. Galvanized slats are fixed using self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch should be from 30 to 60 cm, it depends on the weight of the structure. If the starter profile has holes, this will make installation easier.
6. According to the markings, hangers are attached to the ceiling. They are easily cut with scissors to fit the length of the box. The supporting CD profile is attached to their lower part with self-tapping screws. The main load of the structure falls on this element, because the sheets of drywall are screwed to it. All parts must be in the same plane, no bends are allowed.
7. It is necessary to prepare the wiring for spotlights by marking their installation locations. The wires are secured so as not to damage them during further installation of the box.
8. IN last resort The transverse parts are screwed on, they are attached perpendicular to the wall in increments of 60 cm. The frame is ready, you can sew it up with sheets.

Before fixing the sheathing, insulation is laid, if provided. Drywall sheets are cut to fit the box. The joints of two adjacent sheets should be placed on one CD profile. Initially, the lower part of the structure is sutured, and then the side.

The material is fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed by 1–2 mm to facilitate puttying.

Round holes are cut in the places where the lamps are installed.

Finishing

Finishing works plasterboard box start with priming the entire surface. After drying, it’s time for the starting putty. Applying putty is a responsible and complex procedure; incorrect finishing will spoil the overall impression of the appearance of the structure. For quality work professional craftsmen They use two spatulas - a working one and an auxiliary one; it is worth taking into account their experience and preparing wide and narrow spatulas. An auxiliary tool a layer of putty is applied and the base is leveled.

The corners of the structure are formed metal corner, fixed to starting putty. It is necessary to press the element to ensure a tight fit to the box. After removing the corners, the connecting seams are glued with mesh and filled with putty. When the finishing of the joints has dried, putty is applied to the entire surface of the box. This procedure occurs more than once, each layer gradually removes all irregularities. Finishing layer performed very thin. Another secret is to use the starting and finishing putty from one manufacturer, this guarantees compatibility of materials. Dried putty requires sanding the surface. To do this, use first coarse and then fine sandpaper.

The assembly of the box follows the same scheme as described above. But there are some details to consider. It is necessary to make suspension stands from ceiling profile. For this purpose, a profile should be cut with a size equal to the height of the box. On one side, make cuts along the folds, 40–50 mm high, and fold them inward. back wall. The number of such blanks should be calculated so that they are installed every 60 cm along the length of the entire box. Insert the prepared hanging stand with the uncut side into the guide profile on the ceiling and attach it with a self-tapping screw.

Now you need to make a blank from the ceiling profile. Cut a profile from it to a length equal to the bottom of the box. Please take into account the fact that the lower length will differ from the upper one, since there should be a shelf at the bottom for installing the backlight. That is, the length of the profile segment should be 5 cm greater than the length of the lower part of the box. This distance is quite enough to place the LED strip there. At one end, insert the workpiece into the guide profile on the wall with the shelves up and fix it with self-tapping screws. The other end is attached to a suspension stand. It is important to maintain an angle of 90°.

The result is a box with a protruding profile. Protruding sections should be drowned out. To do this, insert cut pieces of the profile of the appropriate length onto them. This will serve as the basis for attaching a strip of drywall, and the LED strip will be mounted on top.

Now you can sheathe the box. Finally, all that remains is to build the lighting. To do this you must first purchase:

• 220 V power supply for LED strip 12 V.
• LED strip, which can be one color or changing color.

To select the appropriate power supply, you need to determine the power of the LED strip. To do this, you need to measure the perimeter of the entire niche and multiply the resulting figure by the power of a linear meter of tape. But that’s not all, as the following nuances should be taken into account:

• It is not recommended to connect the tape to the power supply in series, since the subsequent section of the tape will glow weaker.
• If the power of the block is too large, this will significantly affect its size. Therefore, when arranging the frame, take this into account. There is another option, for example, to purchase a power supply for each piece of tape; it has small dimensions.

The tape must be glued to the made shelf. When everything is laid out, you can connect it to the power supply.

If we talk about the size of the box, it will depend on what you want to disguise behind it. For example, this could be wiring, water pipes, gas pipes, ventilation duct And so on. If backlighting is to be installed, the size must be sufficient to allow installation of a power supply and LED strip.

A properly installed box will decorate the room and will last for many years.

Video

This is how you can make a plasterboard box yourself:

Photo

Scheme

Pipes in rooms spoil appearance, so it is recommended to hide them. There are plenty of ways to make them invisible, for example, simply covering them with curtains. But, as practice shows, most often craftsmen use boxes made of different materials, of which the most popular is gypsum board. This design is simple, so building a plasterboard box with your own hands is not a problem. In this way they hide both vertically installed pipes, and horizontally. Mounting technology same. Let's look at it using the vertical option as an example.

Simple rectangular design

The location of the pipes may vary. For example, they can stand in the corner of the room, and then the structure of the gypsum plasterboard box will be in the form of a structure of two walls. If it stands alone near a wall, it will have three walls. Let's consider this option, it will answer the main question, how to make a box from plasterboard?

Marking

This is the most important stage. The appearance of the box will depend on it.

• So, 20 cm is deposited from the edges of the pipe in two opposite directions. This indicator is not a standard. Everyone chooses according to their requirements and the size of the room itself. It is best to start marking from the ceiling.
• Now, along these two points, marks descend to the floor. What is a plumb line used for?
• Points on the floor and ceiling are connected by lines.
• Now decide on the depth of the box. On the ceiling, using a corner, lines are drawn from two points. Segment size equal to depth designs. The new two points are connected to each other. That is, there should be a rectangle on the ceiling.
• Lower the two extreme points from the ceiling using a plumb line. You should get exactly the same rectangle on the floor.

Do-it-yourself marking of the frame of the plasterboard box is completed. You can move on to the construction of the frame itself.

Assembling the frame for drywall

First of all, the base from the guide profile is assembled on the ceiling. The sections, cut to the size of the rectangular contour, are installed exactly along the lines and secured with dowels.

Then two guides are installed along the lines marked on the walls. After which the floor contour is assembled in the form of a rectangle. All elements are fastened with dowels in increments of 40-50 cm.

The next stage is the installation of two corner posts. For this, either rack profiles or ceiling profiles are used. Transverse elements are cut out of them (respectively).

Please note that installing the crossbar involves two different profiles: guides and, for example, ceiling. The crossbar will fit into the guide end-on, as is usually the case. Here it will be fastened with self-tapping screws. But connect the ceiling profile to the ceiling in perpendicular planes in the usual way will not work.

Therefore, one edge of the cross member is modified. That is, the profile flanges are cut to the width of the rack, and the horizontal flange is cut to a cone. The result is an element with a horizontal pointed shelf, which is called a tongue. So this tongue is placed on the shelf of the vertical stand and secured with self-tapping screws.

Crossbars are installed horizontally along the entire height of the sides of the structure every 40 or 50 or 60 cm. front side leave room for a hatch through which the pipe system can subsequently be serviced.

Sheathing

Covering a box with plasterboard with your own hands is a very simple matter. Measure the dimensions of the frame, transfer them to a plasterboard sheet, and cut out the strips with a sharp knife.

Now install the strips at their destination, fasten them to the frame with self-tapping screws. After which you need to finish the box yourself. To do this, putty and tape are used to seal the joints. Apply putty to the joint, lay down the tape and apply a layer of putty again.

A strip of the appropriate size is cut out under the inspection hatch. The hatch can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

Backlight

If there is a need to somehow decorate the box with your own hands, then original version- make lighting.

• Firstly, wiring is done after the frame is assembled.
• Secondly, the wires are attached to the profiles only with clips or clamps.
• Thirdly, it is necessary to make holes in the drywall for the lamps. To do this, you can use a drill with a crown. The diameter of the crown is selected to match the diameter of the glass lighting fixture. Holes are made on the floor, after which drywall is installed.

Round box

This option for constructing a plasterboard box is more complex, but it looks great. In order to make a round structure, you need to make a rounded frame.

To do this, it is necessary to install not a rectangular contour, but a semicircular one from the profiles on the ceiling and floor. You can do it like this. Apply markings, measure the length of the semicircle, transfer it to the profile, and cut it off. Now this piece is cut every 7-10 cm along one rack and one shelf. Along the second rack the profile is bent until a figure is obtained.

Why shelf and racks? Any profile is the letter “P”, its legs are racks, top bar- shelf. Fastening is done by a shelf to load-bearing structure, and other frame elements are attached to the racks.

Both finished elements must be attached to the floor and ceiling. Then connect them vertical posts from a ceiling profile. Here, many may have a question, how many racks are needed for the frame for a plasterboard box (made with your own hands) to meet the standard? It all depends on the size of the structure, the minimum should be four.

Gypsum plasterboard box lining

It is not difficult to make a rounded shape for drywall. To do this, the sheet must be moistened on both sides and wait until it is saturated with moisture. You can wet it with a roller. Some craftsmen use a needle roller, believing that in this way they can saturate the sheet faster, because water will penetrate into the gypsum layer through the holes made by the needles.

Then you apply the strip to the frame, secure it on one side vertically with self-tapping screws and slowly bend it to the shape of the frame. In this case, fastening must be done every 30-40 cm. Once the drywall is dry, it will tightly frame the metal frame.

During the period of capital repair work in an apartment, almost everyone may encounter one small but rather unpleasant problem. Part of the pipes and communications in the bathroom and kitchen cannot be moved.

The situation is real when, against the backdrop of luxurious finishing building materials, a depressing situation will “show off.”

Looks very unpleasant:

• Ancient pipe;
• Sewer riser;
• Another type of communication.

Naturally, this will not decorate the room, but will only spoil the feeling of the apartment’s transformation. To prevent this, there is a way available to everyone. You should hide scary, inappropriate pipes in a neat box (gypsum board), which is quite possible to make with your own hands. To make a box from gypsum board, you need to take certain tools.

You will need:

• Construction tape;
• Bubble level;
• Plumb;
• Impact drill;
• Construction corner;
• Stationery knife;
• Hammer.

Naturally, installation cannot take place without sheets of drywall. A single gypsum board will be enough standard size 2500 by 1200 mm, the thickness of which can be 9 mm or 12.5 mm. It is best to buy moisture-resistant gypsum board, since sheathing will be carried out water pipes or sewer risers, which tend to release condensate. In addition, this is an argument when installing a plasterboard box in a bathroom where there is already high humidity. The frame for the box can be made either from 40 by 40 mm wood blocks, or from a metal profile specially designed for working with gypsum boards.

If wood is chosen, it must be pre-treated with antiseptics and primed. These compounds will protect the wood from rot and mold.

A metal profile is more suitable in this regard, since it does not require mandatory preparation, and it is easier to work with. It is correct to take the guide UD metal profile and the CD profile.

Types of profiles for installing a plasterboard frame are presented in the review:.

How to make a box from plasterboard

The production of a plasterboard box is carried out in stages.

Namely:

1. Marking. The first step is to make markings on floor surface. The line should mark the boundaries for the metal profile guides or support bars. It is important to take into account that gypsum board will be placed on top of the frame, so the final dimensions that the box will ultimately have will differ by exactly the thickness of the drywall used. Using a professional angle, you should check the perpendicularity of the markings in relation to vertical surfaces and to each other. The thickness and width of the box should be such that it does not adjoin the pipes in any place; there should be a gap of 5 cm on each side. The width should also be selected taking into account subsequent finishing. Markings from the floor are transferred to the walls using a stretched thread.
2. Fastening elements. First of all, metal profiles or bars are installed, mounted near vertical surface. After this, 1 or 2 racks are fastened, which lag behind the walls and form the front, protruding border of the box. If the width of the structure is more than 25 cm or the height is more than 1.5 m, you need to make jumpers between the support posts. Jumpers are installed at a distance not more than a meter between themselves. During the work process, if wood beams are used, the cut areas need to be additionally processed. It is best to use a special construction mastic for wood. In addition to protection, this will provide strength and noise protection so that the box does not make extraneous sounds when deformed by heat.
3. Plasterboard installation. It is preferable to cut a sheet of building material so that the box consists of single strips rather than pieces. First of all, you need to make stripes for the sides. Their width is equal to the width of the frame itself and does not extend beyond the holding structures. Only after this is it possible to measure exactly the size of the edge that remains and cut the corresponding gypsum board strip so that it fits the edges on the side. The sheets must be assembled with 45 mm screws, fastening them every 25 mm to the main pillars of the structure. You also don’t have to fasten the sheets to the jumpers between the posts. At small widths this is completely unnecessary.

Installation of plasterboard boxes: construction features

A plasterboard box is simple design, and anyone can build it House master who has construction skills. But pipes and other bends that need to be sheathed have their own characteristics.

When is it carried out? installation work with pipes, you need to take into account not only the beauty of the result, but also practicality. In many apartment buildings there are so-called inspections on the sewer pipes. This is a branched pipe connection that has a cap. They are designed for cleaning contaminants.

Under no circumstances should such areas be completely covered with a box. It is necessary to provide a place and leave a window in the wall for free access to the couplings from the outside.

You can close the window using special plastic doors, which can be bought in stores. In addition to this place, it is important to leave access to communication points, to internal sewerage where the distributor is located. You may need to replace some parts or clear out a blockage inside.

It is imperative to form doors in the holes in the box in those places where the pipes have such plumbing element, such as:

• Water flow meters;
• All kinds of valves;
• Distributors, etc.

In order to make them, you need to make holes in the gypsum board that are 3 mm larger than the dimensions of the door frame, which will therefore be inserted there. This can actually be done in advance in a strip of drywall even before installation on the frame. It is also possible to first just mark the position of the door device and then arrange the gypsum board on the frame and cut out the holes.

The nuances of a modern do-it-yourself plasterboard box

As with any installation, the process of creating boxes from gypsum plasterboard has its own subtle moments and nuances, which it would be wrong not to “get acquainted” with.

There are few of them, but it is very important to know them:

1. Applying a level. Without a level, no master can build efficiently - how to do without checking. Each step, whether marking or installing a separate wood or metal profile, must be carried out with level control, otherwise you will end up with a crooked product.
2. If a wide gypsum board box is being installed, the length of the stiffening ribs is more than 80 cm, then it is better to take care of their additional fastening - this is done using the so-called U-shaped holders.
3. The performance characteristics of the finished box are also affected by the correct finishing of the frame with gypsum board sheets - close attention must be paid to the presence of a wood profile or metal profile behind the joints of individual gypsum parts. Its absence will cause inevitable cracking, even despite the quality of the finishing of the joints. And one more thing - on the edges of the gypsum boards that form the connection, it is necessary to cut a chamfer using a knife.

By following the rules for constructing a plasterboard box, you can end up with a durable and aesthetic design. The nuances apply to any installation location; it does not matter whether the box is installed near the hood or at the corner distribution box.

Distribution box for drywall

The distribution box for external wiring is used in conjunction with pipes for the installation of electrical communications and electrical networks.

There are the following types:

• Corrugated;
• Smooth;
• Reinforced.

How to assemble plasterboard boxes (video)

The junction box is made of ABS plastic and is marked RAL 7035. next degree protection – IP 44 and IP 55. All distribution boxes include seals for connecting the above types of pipes, and to create a protection class in accordance with the standard.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Hiding communications, installation unique lighting cannot do without installing a plasterboard box. Assembly of the structure is carried out quickly and allows you to achieve maximum aesthetically pleasing rooms. To make boxes, you need to purchase profiles, plasterboard sheets, screws, and dowels. Designing structures is easy and simple.

The main purposes of different plasterboard boxes

You can make a neat box from plasterboard with your own hands to hide pipes or to remove lighting. The location of the structure can be either horizontal or vertical. They can be mounted at the junction of walls, along the wall or on the ceiling.

To begin work, you need to draw up a drawing taking into account the size of the area where the work will be performed. Next, study information on how to make a box from plasterboard and prepare the following tools:

1. pencil, level, tape measure;
2. rack and guide profile;
3. drywall (regular or moisture-resistant);
4. screws, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Next, you need to transfer the markings, prepare the sheets (cut them) and you can directly install plasterboard boxes in an apartment or house. If the structure is small, the work will take about 3-4 hours. It may take 1-2 days to install the ceiling box.

Features of assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom

The correct installation of the box in the bathroom is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Marks are placed on the wall above the pipes (about 5-10 cm higher), on the floor (with a distance of at least 5 cm from the pipes).

2. The lines for fixing the profiles are outlined, the lines are transferred to the wall (a right angle is marked) from which the pipes come out.

3. A guide profile is mounted along the markings on the walls using dowels.

4. Parallel supports are made of a rack profile and fixed to the guide with self-tapping screws. Additionally, jumpers are mounted: they will add strength to the structure. They are installed at a distance of about 30 cm between the rack and guide profiles.

5. Moisture resistant plasterboard sheets a rectangular hole is cut for the hatch.

6. Sheets are screwed to the frame.

7. The joints are grouted (it is important to remember that joints on perpendicular surfaces should be at different distances from the wall). The box in the plasterboard bathroom is being finished: painting, laying tiles.

8. The hatch frame and the hatch itself are installed.

At this stage, a convenient and practical box for plasterboard pipes will be completely ready. The presence of a hatch on it will provide easy access to communications for their repair.

Installation of a ceiling box in the kitchen

The plasterboard construction on the kitchen ceiling allows for proper lighting work area. But its manufacture is more complex. It is recommended that before starting work, you begin to study the supporting photos and video lessons. This will help eliminate errors when assembling elements and connecting wires. Step-by-step instructions will also help:

Markings are placed on the ceiling and walls.

The guide profile is mounted according to the markings.

Two hangers are mounted at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other: they will support the transverse profile that fits into the guide elements.

Small pieces of the profile are mounted perpendicularly between the side profiles on the walls and the ceiling; they must be fixed to the upper end profile.